Knocking Down Nitrate!
Hey crew,
<Scott F. your Crew member tonight>
Long time no write (things have been going fairly well).  I have been doing my regular water tests and found that last week my nitrates were up to about 40 from 20 ish (colors suck).  I did a 30% water change and this didn't seem to do a thing.  I took some water into my lab and am getting ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, pH, chloride as NaCl by titration, specific gravity and electrical conductivity tested to determine if my test kits are good or not.  In the mean time I'm going to keep up with the water changes.  What else can I do??
<There are a number of things that you can do. Water changes with quality source water a great, but they will take time to reduce the nitrate level significantly. Keep up with small, frequent water changes. You can also utilize chemical filtration media, such as activated carbon or PolyFilter, clean and replace any mechanical filtration media that you have in the system, such as prefilter bags or "socks", and make sure that you are getting a couple of cups a week of darky, yucky skimmate from your protein skimmer. A properly constructed deep sand bed (DSB) is another proven technique that has shown a great capacity to reduce nitrate over time. You could also grow and harvest macroalgae, such as Chaetomorpha, in a dedicated section of your sump. And, you could even install a refugium to help process and export nutrients, including nitrate>
My skimmer seems to be playing games with me, its a SeaClone 150, 4 months old.  Is there a way to clean the inside where the vortex is????  
<Well, this skimmer has a reputation for being somewhat of an underperformer. Cleaning it is a good idea, but it may not be the only factor in it's problematic performance. See Steve Pro's review of skimmers in our new online magazine, "Conscientious Aquarist" for his thoughts on this skimmer.>
I also only have about 63 lbs of rock in my 90 gallon, so upping this should help (I hope), my DSB is only about 2-3" should I increase the size of this??
<Yep...2"-3" is not really a "deep sand bed". Shoot for 4" plus. I've seen people increase their sandbed depth and notice a serious drop in nitrate in weeks. It really works!>
I am moving in a couple of months so would it be ok to add some finely crushed aragonite to my already existing not so finely crushed aragonite when I move or will this to more harm than good?
<I'd go for it>
Are there any other "techniques" I could use??
<Ahh, I already touched on a few already...You could read in much greater detail about each on the WWM site>
Thank you kindly, Todd Hawman
<My pleasure, Todd. Hope that I gave you a few ideas to pique your interest. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Can a Protein Skimmer Really do That?
>Hello again Mr. Bob,
>>Ms. Harding in his place today.
>As my previous letter, now I become one of the salt water aquarium moderator in my country, I know even though I have experience for about 10 years in keeping marine fish, but I still believe that my knowledge is still novice.  My question is does PROTEIN SKIMMER REMOVE AMMONIA, NITRITE AND NITRATE (later I write ANN)?  
>>No, it doesn't.  It removes much of the waste that would later decompose into these compounds.
>Because one of my senior told in the forum that this thing remove
the ANN.  But, I strongly opposite him and told the forum that he was wrong, protein skimmer doesn't remove and never remove ANN, may be it will remove a very small part of ANN but ANN can only be remove by the Nitrogen Cycle process.
>>This is correct, as I said, the best that can be hoped for with a foam fractionator is removal of waste products that later decompose.
>Later he told to the forum again that he have a solution that can make water crystal clear and also remove ANN, so we do not need a Protein Skimmer.
>>OH MY!  (I am laughing now.)  His nickname doesn't happen to be "saltcritter", does it?  (Search reefs.org for this individual, you will get a great chuckle.)
>And at this point I opposite him again, I told to the forum that Nitrogen Cycle process can't be deny in marine aquaria, AM I CORRECT? Please advice and suggestion.
>>Yes, remain confident in your assertions.  My own suggestion, as someone who's involved in another board's forums, is to state simply that the purpose of the board is to disseminate GOOD information, and if he has proof (scientific) of his claims, please make it available.  Otherwise, I might treat him as a "troll".  Enjoy!  Marina

-Nitrate: It's what's for dinner.
Hi guy's <Hey there, Kevin here.> 
Need your help. I have a 110 gallon FOWLR tank with 7 inhabitants...3 damsels, clown trigger, dogface puffer, Volitans Lion and a snowflake eel... About a week ago my eel stopped eating which of course sparked all kinds of activity around the tank to try and figure out what is wrong with my system <ok> 
Possible problems are that I have about 1" substrate on the bottom (can't remember the name of it...it is crushed coral/sand) as well I only have about 5 lb of undoubtedly dead rock that I have probably killed off when treating with copper about 3 mths ago) another story in it's own right. Lastly I have the filter floss in my trickle filter that undoubtedly needs to be changed and will do so this week. Anyway, I tested the water for Nitrates and found them to be over 100 ppm. <There's your problem, eels don't stop eating for no reason.> Naturally began water changes in an effort to rectify, ..have done 2 changes at 5% over the past 4 days and have managed to bring the nitrates down to around 80 ppm as well reduced the amount of food being fed <You can do much better than this, how bout a few 50% water changes? You can change large amounts of water provided you are extra careful to make sure the water chemistry and temp are the same and that you aren't disturbing the biological filter too much.> 
I believe that the root of my problem is that my skimmer is not working properly...Call me new but I have been having a problem getting the skimming levels down (had actually emailed you guys for help and was told that I should have a fine mist of bubbles about halfway up the neck of my skimmer...What I am finding is that I am either getting a ton of water in the collection cup, or very little with guck forming at the top of the cylinder. <Interesting, I'd try and give you some advice but that is dependant on the make/model of your skimmer. Try contacting the mfg or the place you bought it from, you didn't pay all that money to have a useless piece of plastic draining energy.> 
I see it mentioned in your articles that you should work the skimmer hard...can you elaborate on this what should I be doing ?? Keeping the water level lower with maximum bubble activity ?? <You want to fine tune your skimmer to produce the darkest, driest foam possible consistently. You do this by getting the largest amount of the finest bubbles possible with the longest contact time. That's the theory, but every skimmer operates different, so how to get these things done depends on what you have. I hope this helps! -Kevin> 
Thanks in advance for your help, Chris 

Tank setup problems-nitrates
Where can I find information on adjusting the skimmer?  I find it very difficult to proper adjust the skimmer.  Sometimes it produce to water that is not thick enough and sometimes the foam just collapse.
<Look to the owner's manual and keeping the water level constant with a skimmer box. Check out WetWebMedia.com for these, also Anthony Calfo's book.>
(3) Replace the protein skimmer with a more effective one, such as AquaC. Will AquaC suffer from the same problem as the Jetskim that it only effective at a specific PH value?
<Your pH should be 8.3, if not or you are having difficulty with water chemistry, you should get this in order as it can and will affect skimmer efficiency. I highly recommend Kalkwasser use to maintain calcium, support alkalinity and maintaining proper pH.>
(4) Run the refugium 7 X 24 so that the skimmer works at its best all day long.
<This could be done but with the refugium on an alternate cycle, your pH should already be stable 24 hours a day.....unless something else (water chemistry) is amiss. I'm beginning to suspect this is your problem. What is alk, calcium and pH in the late PM? Also check magnesium.>
Actually, I got a calcium reactor, so I believe alk and calcium may not be the problem.  What's the best method to increase my PH to 8.3? Also, how is magnesium related?
<You didn't mention this before, but with the reactor it depends on if you are using CO2 or not and how the reactor is set up. Your alk/calcium/mag is likely good with the reactor, combined with high nitrates points to acidic wastes in the system perhaps combined with an improperly adjusted or set-up calcium reactor contributing to depressed pH. What is the pH before the lights go off? It should be at it's highest then. The answers are : Better husbandry including better nutrient export, (skimming), vacuuming fouled substrates, feeding less, cleaning sponges and filters, using chemical media if needed. Your skimmer should be producing a good deal of skimmate daily.>
>Clean sponges, skimmer, filters at least weekly and perhaps daily for sponges.>
The sponges are only clean every two weeks.  The substrate are the fine one.  Maybe the sponge is part of the problem.
<Very likely! Keep them cleaned out, improve nutrient export and check out your reactor functioning correctly.  Craig>

Tank setup problems-nitrates
Hello WWM crews,
Best wishes and happy new year. My tank recently is experiencing an increasing NO3 (about 40ppm) and I'm wondering how I may improve the situation.  My tank is a 80G tank with a 30G sump.  The sump is divided into several areas with about half of the area working a refugium.  The refugium is growing Caulerpa lighted by a 150W MH in reverse hour as the main tank.  The tank has 100 pounds of live rock.  The tank has one 5" powder blue tang, two 3" goby and one firebird and a couple of soft corals.  However, since I also got a few sea fan, I feed the tank with 4 spoons of ESV Phytoplankton every day.  The fish is feed twice: one with dry food and another with Mysis shrimp.
I'm considering several options:
(1) Decrease my feeding of both fish food and phytoplankton.  Is one meal a day sufficient to my fish?  Will this affect my sea fan?
<I would reduce the phyto feeding and only feed small amounts of fish food that can be eaten immediately.>
(2) Add another protein skimmer.  I'm now using Schuran Jetskim 100.  Will it help if I add another Jetskim 100?  For your info, the skimmer did extract DOC but they are not very black and not very solid.  Also, it seems only effective when the light on the refugium is on.
<I am not familiar with this skimmer but it should be producing a cup or so of dark skimmate per day. If not, it needs to be adjusted or replaced with a more efficient skimmer.>
(3) Replace the protein skimmer with a more effective one, such as AquaC. Will AquaC suffer from the same problem as the Jetskim that it only effective at a specific PH value?
<Your pH should be 8.3, if not or you are having difficulty with water chemistry, you should get this in order as it can and will affect skimmer efficiency. I highly recommend Kalkwasser use to maintain calcium, support alkalinity and maintaining proper pH.>
(4) Run the refugium 7 X 24 so that the skimmer works at its best all day long.
<This could be done but with the refugium on an alternate cycle, your pH should already be stable 24 hours a day.....unless something else (water chemistry) is amiss. I'm beginning to suspect this is your problem. What is alk, calcium and pH in the late PM? Also check magnesium.>
(5) Use chemical filter to absorb NO3 and PO4.  But it seems to me that this is only addressing the symptom but not the root problem.
(6) More water change.  Now I'm changing 2% water every other day.
Which option should I choose or are there any other better way?
Thanks and regards, Manus
<Test source water first, you may introduce nitrogen and ammonia in replacement water.  If so, you need RO/DI etc to eliminate.  Clean sponges, skimmer, filters at least weekly and perhaps daily for sponges.  What sort of substrate are you using? Coarse substrates trap detritus and wastes and produce nitrates. Keep vacuumed if this is the case or replace with fine aragonite. Reducing nitrates can be a multiple issue problem, overfeeding, inadequate waste export, retained wastes, etc. You may need to look at several causes.  Craig>

Re: nitrate problem/ livestock
I have a 90 gallon reef tank well established overall everything has been great.  all the water chemistry is perfect except for the nitrates they are through the roof like 180 to 200.  I tried water changes and nitrate sponges I bought a sea clone skimmer from marine land the bigger it can do up to 150 gallon capacity
<This is a "junk" product. Replace it. Please read through our skimmer selection FAQs starting here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/skimselfaqs.htm and continuing on>
still no better the collection cup fills up with dark clean matter real disgusting over all the corals are good not great but good.  What else can I do to correct this problem.
<Many things. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm and the FAQs files beyond (linked, in blue, at top)>
Second question is regarding my live stock. I have a lunar wrasse, purple tang, orange tail damsel, yellow tail damsel, tiger goby, marine Betta, royal Gramma, dwarf lionfish and a  Naso tang.  All of these fish I have had well over 2 years and have grown considerably in particular the lunar he must of been the red sea variety, because when I got him he was not too colored no tail trailers about maybe  3 inches he has grown to 9" full blown ultra colored bright green fuchsia long Anthias tail just a killer specimen.
<Neat>
In regards to the nitrate problem I am thinking about adding some clams I have the lighting metal halide 250 watt and 2 4 ft compact fluorescents with straight actinic 55 watt Coralife bulbs total I've got 470 watts of lighting on my 90 gallon.  The problem is I have had clams before crocea, maxima, deresa all died the first two I did not  have the halides the store said the flo's would be good "wrong" the last one I have was doing fine for about two months then I killed it by depleting the nitrates down therefore depleting his food supply and inevitably the lunar when to town and ate the clam up.  I did notice that the lunar nipped at the mantle from time to time can I control this with feeding to where I can add say 3 to 4 clams and let the bivalves do their worth after how do they survive in the wild right.
<I would not place tridacnids with this Lunare Wrasse. Bob Fenner>

Re: nitrate problem/ livestock
This is my second skimmer I heard it was pretty good so I gonna leave it be for now, reading the faq's everything is the same that I have read before, I have done the massive water changes 20 30 or ever 40% for my trouble I got the nitrates down to 100 ppm and killed various corals via shock.
<... you're wasting your time, livestock's' vitality, money on water replacement by using this puny skimmer... Please send a note to our chatforum: http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/ or others on the Net... or read where I just sent you...>
I have another idea because the water thing is not working, I have a AMiracle wet dry on this tank what if I changed out the bio balls to some other matter like some of the CPRs ribbon material I have also seen other products like cell pore blocks from Kent and so on.  Or would I be better off converting the bio ball chamber to a refugium with mud and ruble.
<Removing the plastic media would be of help, and it would be even better to do the refugium conversion.>
I am assuming I would have to let the bio balls float for a good 30 days in the sump so that I would not interrupt the filtration before switching what's your opinion.
<Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bioballfaqs.htm
A note. If you don't want to read where you're sent, pretend that you have, disregard our advice out of hand, please don't waste the bandwidth, our time by writing us. Bob Fenner>

- Controlling Nitrates -
Hey guys,
<Hello, JasonC here...>
I have a question regarding high nitrates.  Let me give you the specs first.  I have a 75 gallon tank FOWLR (about 70 lbs of live rock).  I am using a Eheim canister filter (rated to 94 gal which I clean monthly), a BakPak2 protein skimmer, and a Aquaclear 300 power filter.  I have taken the "BioBale" out of the skimmer and run it without this material (should I replace it or use something else in there?). <Is fine either way.> Also, I run the power filter with Polyfilter, carbon (which i change bimonthly), and Kent nitrate sponge (does this stuff really work). <Based on the information you list, it doesn't sound like it.>
Ammonia-0ppm
Nitrite-0ppm
pH-8.2
salinity-1.023
nitrate>80ppm
1 small Sailfin tang, 1 flame angel, 1 2.5 in. Bluespotted Jawfish (my favorite), 1 purple Firefish, a cleaner shrimp, a few assorted hermits, and a few turbo snails (I used to have more of the snails and crabs but they seem to have slowly disappeared over the last year (because of nitrates??))
I have always had a slight problem with diatoms which just required some scraping, but recently I have had a large outbreak of some sort of dark brown algae that covers my live rock in a slimy film. <It sounds like Cyanobacteria - BGA - more information about that here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm > I couldn't find it in the FAQs, but I may not have looked hard enough.  I assume that this is due to the high nitrates? I typically perform a 20% water change with vacuuming of gravel weekly, but I admit sometimes it's 2 weeks between water changes. <That's ok.> In an effort to decrease the nitrates and prevent the algal blooms I have been diligent with weekly water changes of 25% for the last month and significantly cut back the feeding to once a day. <Yeah... but how much once a day?> Also, as mentioned above, I removed the BioBale from the skimmer and I don't run the power filter with a foam insert.  I thought that all of these things together with the canister filter might be a big nitrate factory. <I don't think so.> Is this assumption correct or am I mistaken?? <You clean it regularly... would prevent that problem.> Also, I noticed when vacuuming the gravel there is a huge accumulation of junk underneath the live rock, but I really don't want to tear apart the whole tank to get to these places.  Is that ok or should I get under the rock as often as possible as well. <No, you can get away with a good gravel clean about every six months.>  The skimmer only gives me about 1/4 cup of tea colored skimmate with lots of gunk in the collection cup neck.  I have never seen dark coffee like skimmate from this unit and was wondering your opinion of this unit? <That's about standard for this unit - it's not really a very good skimmer.> I should probably get another skimmer and was thinking of a Remora Pro when I get the money unless you have a better suggestion? <Nope, the Remora pro is what I would recommend.>
Is there anything else I should do other than the water changes and decreased feeding to get the nitrate down? <You might consider increasing the flow in your tank to get some of that detritus into the water column and subsequently into the filter system... likewise, the increased flow would help get that water in/around/through the live rock which should help quite a bit.> Though I am not a fan of adding all sorts of chemicals I saw a product from Aquamarine called Nitrate Reducer which claims 97% reduction in nitrates in 7-14 days.  Such claims certainly can tempt the average aquarium keeper. <And I'm sure they do.> What do you think about such a product?? <Never tried it, never will.>
Thanks in advance for your help.  You have a great site.
Jeff
P.S. After over a year of placing Bob's CMA on birthday, Christmas lists, etc I finally got it from my fiancé this past holiday.  I love it!
<Cheers, J -- >

Nailing Nitrate
Hi guys.
<Hey! Scott F. here today>
I'm setting up a 40 gal reef with an overflow, a great deal of live rock and MH lighting. In the sump I intend to escape the problem of creating a nitrate factory by only having water that has passed through the skimmer entering the wet/dry filter.
What do you think? Thanks in advance, Tom.
<Well, Tom, your intentions are good. However, by it's very nature, the wet/dry filter produces nitrate as the "end product" of the biological filtration process. Yes, skimmers do help export some nitrate, but, in my opinion, you will still be producing nitrate with the wet/dry, regardless of where the skimmer is located in the system. You should locate the skimmer where it will receive raw source water from the tank, for maximum efficiency. Also, it is best to utilize other means of nutrient export to help eliminate nitrate, such as using quality source water, regular small (like 5% twice weekly) water changes, use of a deep sand bed, chemical filtration media, and eliminating the plastic media in the wet-dry filter. These steps will go a long way towards helping reduce or eliminating nitrate in your system. God luck! Regards, Scott F >

Nitrate levels
Hi guys
<Cheers, Andy>
I hope you can advise me, I have just returned to the hobby after a 15 year break.
<excellent... welcome back!>
I am starting up a marine tank, and going through the cycling process, ammonia has just dropped off the scale and nitrite is peaking now BUT the nitrate level is huge, 
<yes... to be expected from the conversion of the large nitrogenous spike on cycling>
despite several 10% water changes.
<ahhh... too small for exchanges to reduce nitrate. Best to wait until the very end of the cycle and do one very large water change IMO (properly conducted with water that is pH, temp and salinity adjusted carefully)>
I have no livestock, 1/2 inch of coral sand and some ocean rock. 
<are you cycling with a batch of uncured rock which provides the material for cycling (decaying organic material)? Else, what are you using to cycle?>
my filters consist of a Fluval 3 and a built in unit, both with sponges for biological and the built in unit with floss, a PolyFilter and carbon. 
<excellent>
my skimmer is a red sea 'Prizm' 
<hmmm... definitely will want to add a second skimmer or simply upgrade from this model very soon. Much info to be heard about this model on the message boards. May I suggest a Euroreef, Aqua C, Turboflotor or Tunze instead? Euroreef being perhaps my first choice.>
Due to the high level of nitrate (my tapwater shows minimal - and I use nitrogen so the freshwater is around 2-3 ppm) I tried clean water ion exchange resin to no avail.
<do save your money on such products. "the solution to pollution is dilution". Water changes, my friend. Also, if you had a skimmer that performed consistently and well ( a full cup of coffee dark liquid every day) then you would have a lot less nitrate to handle>
The only possible polluter is the 1/2 a fish stick I put in the tank to start the maturation process off (3 weeks ago), but the water changes have not really made much of an impact on the nitrate level.
my questions are 1/ how to reduce dramatically the nitrate level <yep... biggie water change>
2/ when can I introduce living rock ( I will be putting around 45 pounds of it in when I feel the water parameters are safe for the life on the living rock) 
<actually if the rock you buy if local and fully cured... the sooner the better! Else if air shipped, the curing process will take some extra weeks>
I know that the rock will reduce nitrate but will the high level of nitrate and still high level of nitrite bar me from putting it in at the moment.
<no impediment at all>
3/ once the tank has finally matured, and , when I can afford it, I want to add a fluidized sand filter - do I have to mature it separately or can it be hooked up straight away and allowed to mature in situ.
<unless you are planning on large fish or overfeeding... the fluidized bed (or any other biological filter at this point) will be overkill and contribute to even higher nitrates. You will have plenty of bio filtration from the live rock and the Fluval sponges are a fine backup. The extra filter is more harm than good. Spend your money on a second/better skimmer and enjoy much better water quality for it>
Thanks in advance Andy Davis Ashford Kent UK
<best regards, Anthony Calfo>

High Nitrates/Phosphates
Hi,
I have a 75 Gal. marine set-up (since 12,2000) containing approximately 60 lbs. of Fiji Live Rock as well as a Red Sea Berlin Turbo protein skimmer. My showpiece resident is a Hawaiian Dragon Moray Eel. In addition have one Cleaner shrimp and four Peppermint Shrimp as well as a few Astrea Snails/Nassarius Snails. Lighting consists of tow Twin Tube All Glass reflectors containing URI Aqua-sun and Actinic Lamps. This week, following a 25% (25 Gal) water change water testing results for nitrates were off the chart high as well as phosphates registering 1.6 mg/l. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. 
Would the fact that my Berlin Turbo Skimmer failed on two occasions and as of this writing have replaced the impeller with the third design revision provided by Red Sea Inc.
<The skimmer is a contributing cause... but the real producer is the Moray itself... Please take a look here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/no3probfaqs.htm and on to the further FAQs posted on Phosphates... you might try a sump with a DSB, live rock, macro-algae there... and lighting this refugium... This would be the route I would go. Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
Ron Allard

Nitrates/Phosphates
Good Morning - Bob, Steve or Anthony
<Steven this afternoon.>
I have a 29 gallon reef tank. The inhabitants are: 1- Yellow tailed blue damsel, 1- pink skunk clown, 1-long nose hawk and 1-flame hawk, 1 six-line wrasse as well as 2-large cleaner shrimp and 1 large banded coral shrimp, 1 large Turbo Snail, 4 other snails that just appeared and various mushrooms, polyps, leather corals and a colt coral. All fish and corals seem very healthy and have good appetites and corals are spreading. I feed once a day sparingly.
My water conditions are: PH=8.4, Ammonia =0, Nitrite=0, Nitrates=10-20, Calcium=450-460, Phosphate=.25-.50, Alkalinity=125 which is what the test kit says it should be but I can't remember what that's measured in.
<Alkalinity of 125 is not possible. It should be 2.5-3.5 meq/l or 7-10 dKH.>
I *change out 6 gallons of water per week.
<Very good.>
I have a SeaClone Protein Skimmer that skims 1/4 to 1/2 inches of skimmate per day which I think is a little low.
<I would like to see more skimmate, but may not be possible with this skimmer.>
A Penguin 330 bio wheel with charcoal filters and 2 Hagen power heads
( I think they are 300's) with quick cartridges. The quick cartridges have a foam insert. I would like to keep my Nitrates down to zero but with fish, I wonder if that is possible.
<With this current bio-load and filtration, it will be difficult. a DSB may help.>
Would I be better off as far as Nitrate and Phosphate to remove the quick cartridges from the power heads and turn one of them upside down low and blowing into the rock ? Would this perhaps increase the efficiency of the Protein skimmer?
<Not likely to increase skimmer performance much. Do be sure to clean and/or replace the cartridges fairly regularly, at least weekly.>
I would like to achieve the best conditions I can for my tank size which I know is small. I am going to set up another 29 gallon
tank on the bottom of my stand (wall space is an issue) and take one of the hawks and two of the other fish (wrasse/damsel and some of the corals and put into the lower tank once it has cycled to lessen the bio load on the tank. Is this a feasible plan?
<Sounds good.>
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
<I would look at the Prizm skimmers from Red Sea. Considerably more effective and about the same price.>
I can send a picture if you think it would help.
<Not needed at this point. -Steven Pro>

Nitrates
bob thank you for taking my email! I just brought your book conscientious marine aquarist.
<Sure you will enjoy, benefit from it>
my problem is I have a 55 gal tank, using a emperor 400 filter using standard filter no extra carbon), a sea clone skimmer18 watt uv ster., and 2 03 power heads, 60 lbs of live rock, 60 lbs of live sand, using reef crystal mix and or water. my tank is about 6 mos. old, water changes 20% weekly. and RO top off.
I have 1 naso,1 yellow tang,1 purple tang,1 dragon goby, 2 cardinals, 2 damsels, 35 shrimp,
<thirty five? I'll assume either three or five>
2 starfish, 3 emeralds, 20 blue legged hermits and 20 snails, 3 anemones,
<What types? Could be trouble...>
1 leather, 2 corals. I feed once a day lifeline for the tangs and formula 2 for the others. I do not use phytoplankton or should I?
<I would... and be carefully observing this mix... a lot of life for a fifty five gallon tank...>
I use reef complete for my calcium levels. no matter what I do I can not get my nitrates down, there running 80+ and very consistent. no matter if I do more water changes or what , tried a nitrate sorb in my filter with no change, I added another filter which is a Rena to help with the standard carbon sponge and fiber media. with no help! my amm. 0:, nitrites 0:, ph 8.2:, calcium 400:, phosphates .1:, I'm getting good skimming from my skimmer and clean the canister once a day and the tube once a week change my filter on my emperor every 2 weeks and clean the Rena once a week. I need help!!!!!!!! should I take out the bio wheels in the emperor?
<Maybe... but I wouldn't... you need their help, steady, back-up nitrification here... There is much more you can/should do...>
I just bought a 29 gal tank I was going to make a sump out of it with no bio balls putting my skimmer down there and use some live sand bed with plants so the water can run across and then return to tank is that good think it will help?
<Of a certainty yes... this is a very good plan.>
I'm at the last line now this is my goal in life to reduce my nitrates, LOL I'm at my wits end and really don't no what to do next.
thank you , Gary Williams
Abington, Va.
<Do read over the "Nitrates FAQs" posted on our website: www.WetWebMedia.com, as well as "Algal Filtration FAQs" there... You're well on your way... and seem to have a good and growing grasp of what you might do here. Bob Fenner>

Green hairy algae and high nitrates 7/26/05
We have a 45 gallon, 16 month old reef aquarium which until about six months ago was perfectly balanced chemically.  Oh yeah, live rock, live sand, and Aqua Clear wet./dry filter, a CAP 1800 pump, an unknown protein skimmer, and some charcoal.  Then, around January, the nitrates went really high (200+), but now they are in the high O.K. range and we are getting a lot of green hairy algae.  I've been reading your chat board and you have mentioned the protein skimmer should put out a couple of cups of sludge a week and ours doesn't even need to be dumped but every couple of weeks.  The skimmer was suggested by the aquarium shot where we got our tank, I think it is locally made (Jacksonville, FL), it wasn't expensive ($100), and is installed in the sump as per directions.  I'm thinking we should get a better skimmer due to the stupid algae.  We have 6 fish, one clam, one spiny oyster, and four corals.  Any suggestions?  Thanks. <Depending on size, six fish could be a bit much for a 45 gallon tank.  For skimmers to work efficiently, they must be cleaned weekly by removing the brown sludge that builds up on the riser tube.  For algae control Google "algae control" on the Wet Web Media.  James (Salty Dog)>
Kim