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FAQs on Marine Water Quality involving Nitrate Importance
Related Articles: Nitrates in Marine
Aquariums, Nitrites, Ammonia,
Establishing Cycling,
BioFiltration, Phosphate,
Silicates, Nutrient Control and
Export, Deep Sand Beds,
Related FAQs: Nitrates 1,
Nitrates 2, Nitrates 3,
Nitrates 4, Nitrates 5,
Nitrates 6, Nitrates 7,
Nitrates 8,
Nitrates 9, Nitrates 10,
Nitrates 11, & FAQs on: The
Actual Science Re: NO3 Compounds,
Sources, Measuring, Means to
reduce: NNR (Natural Nitrate Reduction,
Anaerobic Bacteria), Algae,
Other Biota, Physical Filters,
Chemical Filters... Nitrites, Ammonia,
Phosphate, Silicates,
Biological Filtration, Fluidized Beds,
Denitrification/Denitrifiers,
Bio-Balls, Wet-Dry Filters,
R.O./Distilled/Treated Water, Chemical
Filtrants, Deep
Sand Beds, | 
Excessive nitrogenous analog is deleterious to all aquatic life.
Forcipiger longirostris (Broussonet 1782), Yellow Longnose, Long
Longnose Butterflyfish.
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High nitrate's effects on Naso's skin?
Naso Tang/Health 3/26/09
Hello,
<Hello Dee.>
I have recently began lowering my very high nitrate levels, I was
dangerously overfeeding my tank. My Naso's skin has gotten blotchy, kind of
looks like it's orange-peeled in texture along with dark grey small
patches. Her eyes & fins
are all clear. Eats great, swims and acts the same. If this is stress
markings
from the high nitrates, what's a ballpark figure on how long before it
clears up?
<Depends on how long before your "high" nitrate levels drop to a safe
range.
It has been 5 days since these markings first appeared. I have done large
water
changes in my 300 gallon tank. Employed some activated carbon, Seachem's
De-nitrate
in filter bags in the sump, next to the 40 gallon 'fuge. I will add some
Chaetomorpha
to refugium tomorrow to help lower the nitrates even more.
<A start.>
I feed less, water is much clearer now. I have removed the filter sock,
<I'm not a fan of filter socks as they trap debris in the micron size and
the water is constantly flowing
through this and creating high nutrient levels.>
and employed Poly-Filter in the slot of the
second chamber. I am too afraid to post the nitrate numbers, your jaw would
hit the floor.
<Would have been better if you did post the numbers, gives us a realistic
idea of how high the levels really are.>
I am very upset, I should have tested weekly, I did not. My 8" Naso is my
special fish.
No other inhabitants' skin is affected, just hers. Can you please help my
nerves with this one? With consistent 15% water changes every other day for
a week, then back to my regular regiment of 10% a week, can I hope to see
her skin condition improve in time?
<Weekly water changes will help, but the use of a quality protein skimmer
will certainly speed up the process
and further prevent nitrates from rising provided an efficient skimmer, and
one sized for your tank is used.
You mention nothing of using one so I'm assuming you're not using one.>
I have read through the FAQ's, and have seen the above remedies help in
lowering nitrates.
<In your case, you would be better off using Chemi-Pure, a high grade
activated carbon combined with
scavenging resins. In your size tank, we would be looking at using six
units of the product and to be effective, the
water needs to pass through the product, not around it. Seriously, do
consider
purchasing a protein skimmer, will create much better water quality for
your animals.
Have you read here and related articles?
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm>
Sadly, Dee.
<And I James, not being in Cozumel with Bob and Scott.
Cheers. James (Salty Dog)>
Re: High nitrate's effects on Naso's skin?
Naso Tang/Health 3/26/09
Fantastic feedback, thank you James. I have learned so much from your
responses to others.
<You're welcome.>
Okay, here's the nitrate numbers. It was at 200 last Sunday, yes, you read
that
right.
<Yikes, what kind of test kit are you using that will read that high? Is
your kit measuring total nitrogen or NO3?>
After one water change, and added filter media, it went down to 80.
<A big improvement.>
The next day, another water change, it went down to 50, where it has
remained for the past 3 days, even with another water change.
<You are at a point now where you are importing more nutrients than the
skimmer/system can export.>
So sorry, I neglected to mention that I am running a ASM G1 skimmer, and my
LFS said I need more like a G3 instead for my sized system. He suggested I
run the skimmer "WET" .....he came over and raised the tube with the black
sponge around it higher, I now have less foam. Do you agree that running it
wet will help?
<I like to set up skimmers so the skimmate is on the dark side. I'm
thinking the skimmate your skimmer is producing now is
tinted more like tea. Your dealer is correct, the G1 will not do it, and
either will the G3 which is rated for 250 gallons max.
If you like this brand of skimmer, go with the G4 which is rated for up to
350 gallons.>
If so, how long until I push the tube back down below the neck of the
skimmer?
<Let it run awhile, see what color and amount of skimmate you get out of
the tank in a day or two. If it is light in color, push the tube down
about 1/2", then evaluate again. When you get to a point where the
skimmate isn't any darker, then that is where I'd
leave it.>
I have seen that Chemi-Pure and am on my way out to purchase it right now.
I have your recommended dosage for my sized system, and will get that plus
more. How often should I change it out?
<Well, they say every six months, but I've never found that to be true.
With your present nutrient level, I'm thinking about one month and with the
next change, likely two months. It is important to have some type of
mechanical filter ahead of the Chemi Pure to increase it's useful life.>
Salty Dog, thank you just isn't enough. This issue has caused daily
nosebleeds, I need help, and was just too afraid to put the numbers here.
<We are here to help you Dee, not criticize you. We all have been down
that road before and have learned from our mistakes and/or lack of
knowledge.>
I have also read that adding a Mangrove plant in the 'fuge will help, as
well. I am searching for one.
<Put your money toward a skimmer that will handle your tank, will do much
more good than the mangrove will at this stage.>
The Naso began with black blotches all over, face, gills, body, etc....I
thought it was Black Spot, but tested my water, saw the nitrate numbers and
quickly realized it was probably stress markings. All of the blotching has
gone away now with the exception of her back and sides. Face, gills are all
smooth and grey again, like normal. Yes, that filter sock was packed with
debris/uneaten food. Thank you so much.
<Yes, a double edge sword here.>
I await your response re: the duration of running the skimmer wet, the
Naso's approx. recovery time,
<I couldn't begin to estimate recovery time, too many variables. Most
importantly, it is better to feed more often with smaller portions per
feeding than to put out the grand buffet a couple of times a day.>
and the frequency of changing out the Chemi-Pure. You are my lifeline right
now. Please help. I have seen some of the articles in the link you
provided, but not all. I will read through once I return with the
Chemi-Pure.
<Great. What you need most right now is patience, this didn't happen
overnight and it isn't going to go away overnight.
Thank you.
<You're welcome, and you will get through this. James (Salty Dog)>
Dee.
Re: High nitrate's effects on Naso's skin?
Naso Tang/Health 3/26/09
James, is the Chemi Pure product you recommend by Boyd's?
<Yes.>
That is the only brand I've seen with this name on it. There are two
versions, a regular
one, and one that's labeled "elite", which removes phosphates and silicates
as well as what the regular one removes. Which do you recommend?
<In your situation, the standard Chemi-Pure will do more for you right now
than the Elite, more
carbon and resins will be present to better absorb excess nutrients. James
(Salty Dog)>
Dee.
High nitrate's effects on Naso's skin?
Naso Tang/Health 3/27/09
Salty Dog,
<Dee>
what a lifesaver you are. I hate to hog up so much of your precious time,
but please walk me through this like I'm 5 years old, I will not be
offended. I will purchase a mechanical filter tomorrow. Honestly, what is
it? What kind, brand, size do you recommend? Where do I put it?
<Dee, you are scaring me now, you do not know what a mechanical filter is?
A mechanical filter is any filter that can trap debris, uneaten food etc.
Your filter sock can be identified as a mechanical filter but would not
work in this application.>
I will put it ahead of the Chemi-Pure as you suggested, but please tell me
where to put the mechanical filter as well as the media bags. Do I use the
carbon along with the Chemi-Pure?
<Not necessary to use carbon with Chemi-Pure, it contains carbon.>
I have a 40 gallon refugium, separated into 3 sections. First section,
water from the main tank pours down into it. The skimmer is there. That is
where I've placed the bags of carbon and SeaChem's De-nitrate.
<For now, remove the bags of carbon and place the Chemi-Pure bags in their
place. I'd also like you to send a couple pics of your sump. We may be
able to devise a way of using the Chemi-Pure more effectively without you
having to purchase a filter.>
The second section is where the sand, live rocks, algae plants and sponge
are growing.
<Good, a refugium is incorporated here.>
Third section, 2 return pumps, nothing else. I paid the local guy in my
area thousands of dollars for this set up. He brought everything out, I
never questioned the size, brands, anything, just trusted he'd keep his
word and give me top of the line everything, in sizes appropriate for my
system. Two years later, I am learning that one thing after another is too
small and inadequate for my tank.
<Is the exact reason you need to educate yourself more, don't assume or
trust everyone's suggestion(s). I would think that after two years you
would be a little further down the road.>
So this skimmer <ASM G-1> is what was installed on it,
<Don't understand why your LFS would install an undersize skimmer on your
tank. I'd be a little skeptical with him.>
I have no preference for the brand, I will replace with whatever you
recommend, please.. Yes, the skimmer had light colored liquid in it, not
dark as usual. I pushed it back down. Please explain what that does, moving
that tube up and down.
<Basically, the higher the water level in the skimmer, the lighter the
skimmate. You "pushed it back down", why not follow my suggestion in the
previous email? Don't go from one extreme to the other. Read again and
read the instructions that came with the skimmer.>
You said with my 3 water changes I am now importing more nutrients than I
am exporting.
<No, I did not say that, go back and read again. I said you are at a point
where the skimmer cannot export the nutrients at the same rate they are
being imported, simply said, the skimmer is too small for your tank.>
I should now then go back to my weekly water changes, rather than every
other day?
<Yes, do 10% weekly, right now you are wasting your money with every other
day changes. You need export help by way of a skimmer sized for your tank.
Changing water helps by dilution but can get expensive in the long run,
and is time consuming as you well know.>
<I should have asked this earlier before this turned into a saga, but how
many fish, and their approximate sizes do you have in this tank?>
I don't understand. I use 2 different test kits, both strips, and both are
the 5 in 1 types, measuring pH, hardness alkalinity, nitrite, nitrate, and
ammonia. One is by Jungle. It measures nitrate is quantities of 0, 20, 40,
80, 160, 200 ppm. I Googled it, there is no specific mention of it
measuring total nitrogen or just NO3. So, I'm not sure. I also use a test
strip kit by Mardel, same 5 in 1 style. This one specifically says it is
measuring NO3 ppm at levels of 0, 20, 40, 80 and 200.
<Well, that's some relief, a kit measuring N-NO3 would have to be
multiplied by 4.4 to get the NO3 (nitrate ion) level. I'd do away with
these 5 in 1 strips and get a kit dedicated to measuring NO3 only.
Aquarium Systems, Salifert and a few other companies have inexpensive
nitrate kits that will be easier to read than the strips. Better yet, get
kits that are dedicated to measuring an individual water parameter. My
personal preference are the Salifert Kits.>
I am terrified here.
<You are scaring me also.>
Thank you for the reminder that you all are here to help us, and that this
did not happen overnight, nor will it straighten out overnight. Indeed, I
was laying out the buffet 3-4 times a day. That is under control now.
Please advise.
<Right now, follow the above suggestions and do send photos of the sump and
other items I've asked you for above. It would be beneficial to me for you
to send a photo of the tank, I'd like to see what I'm dealing with. Also,
measure the length and width of the skimmer section in the sump. I cannot
recommend a skimmer without knowing your available space. Skimmers vary in
footprint dimensions and we want to make sure we get one that will fit in
the area provided. I will then link you to a LFS/etailer than can provide
you with your needs and save you some money to boot. Where are you
located. I also feel that you need to learn/read more about this hobby.
Here is a link to our marine index which will lead you to most any topic
dealing with marine aquariums. Do spend some time reading/learning here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/marsetupindex1.htm
When replying, do not break up the entire thread as you have here, always
"reply to". Doing so prevents me from going back to all the previous
emails if I need to.?
James (Salty Dog)>
Thankfully, Dee.
High nitrate's effects on Naso's skin?
Naso Tang/Health 3/26/09
Fantastic feedback, thank you James. I have learned so much from your
responses to others.
<You're welcome.>
Okay, here's the nitrate numbers. It was at 200 last Sunday, yes, you read
that
right.
<Yikes, what kind of test kit are you using that will read that high? Is
your kit measuring total nitrogen or NO3?>
After one water change, and added filter media, it went down to 80.
<A big improvement.>
The next day, another water change, it went down to 50, where it has
remained for the past 3 days, even with another water change.
<You are at a point now where you are importing more nutrients than the
skimmer/system can export.>
So sorry, I neglected to mention that I am running a ASM G1 skimmer, and my
LFS said I need more like a G3 instead for my sized system. He suggested I
run the skimmer "WET" .....he came over and raised the tube with the black
sponge around it higher, I now have less foam. Do you agree that running it
wet will help?
<I like to set up skimmers so the skimmate is on the dark side. I'm
thinking the skimmate your skimmer is producing now is
tinted more like tea. Your dealer is correct, the G1 will not do it, and
either will the G3 which is rated for 250 gallons max.
If you like this brand of skimmer, go with the G4 which is rated for up to
350 gallons.>
If so, how long until I push the tube back down below the neck of the
skimmer?
<Let it run awhile, see what color and amount of skimmate you get out of
the tank in a day or two. If it is light in color, push the tube down
about 1/2", then evaluate again. When you get to a point where the
skimmate isn't any darker, then that is where I'd
leave it.>
I have seen that Chemi-Pure and am on my way out to purchase it right now.
I have your recommended dosage for my sized system, and will get that plus
more. How often should I change it out?
<Well, they say every six months, but I've never found that to be true.
With your present nutrient level, I'm thinking about one month and with the
next change, likely two months. It is important to have some type of
mechanical filter ahead of the Chemi Pure to increase it's useful life.>
Salty Dog, thank you just isn't enough. This issue has caused daily
nosebleeds, I need help, and was just too afraid to put the numbers here.
<We are here to help you Dee, not criticize you. We all have been down
that road before and have learned from our mistakes and/or lack of
knowledge.>
I have also read that adding a Mangrove plant in the 'fuge will help, as
well. I am searching for one.
<Put your money toward a skimmer that will handle your tank, will do much
more good than the mangrove will at this stage.>
The Naso began with black blotches all over, face, gills, body, etc....I
thought it was Black Spot, but tested my water, saw the nitrate numbers and
quickly realized it was probably stress markings. All of the blotching has
gone away now with the exception of her back and sides. Face, gills are all
smooth and grey again, like normal. Yes, that filter sock was packed with
debris/uneaten food. Thank you so much.
<Yes, a double edge sword here.>
I await your response re: the duration of running the skimmer wet, the
Naso's approx. recovery time,
<I couldn't begin to estimate recovery time, too many variables. Most
importantly, it is better to feed more often with smaller portions per
feeding than to put out the grand buffet a couple of times a day.>
and the frequency of changing out the Chemi-Pure. You are my lifeline right
now. Please help. I have seen some of the articles in the link you
provided, but not all. I will read through once I return with the
Chemi-Pure.
<Great. What you need most right now is patience, this didn't happen
overnight and it isn't going to go away overnight.
Thank you.
<You're welcome, and you will get through this. James (Salty Dog)>
Dee.
Nitrates:), reef maint. 7/31/08
Hi Bob/Guys
hope you are well, I have started reading your sight alot
<... no
such word>
of late and have found it great and informative reading,
but however has raised a few questions which I hope you can answer. My
set up consists of a 125G tank 30G sump, I have 55 Kilos of Fiji/Tongan
liverock ,
<What is going on with the grammar in this msg.? Do you
run your writing through a grammar checker?>
Instant ocean 1200
skimmer in sump with a Deltec pump set up for ROWAphos, PolyFilters
etc,Deltec Kalk stirrer,wavebox set alternately powering 4 1000lph
powerheads
<Lots of gear>
My tank is just over 2 years old and
consists mainly of my favourite stony corals including
G.Stokesii,Branching Alviapora,Elegance,Frogspawn and Hammerhead
Euphyllia,several Caulastrea,one Acanthastrea and a lovely now softball
sized red Closed Brain. I also have several rapidly growing species of
Caribbean Gorgonians( strictly Photosynthetic ones of course). Fish
include a 5" Zebra Lion, 4" Sailfin Tang, Pair of Leopard Wrasse, pair
of Emperor Cardinals,3" Marin Beta. Now to my problem, well actually its
only been a problem since reading your site but pretty much from the
word go my Nitrate readings have been 30 ppm I do 12% water change per
week with r/o and test water weekly keeping a log of readings typically
1.024 salinity 430 calcium 1300 Magnesium 0 phosphate/nitrite/Ammonia KH
10,PH 8-8.3My nitrate has been 30 or sometimes slightly less for well
over a year even though I have added no fish or Coral in more than 16
months and to be honest the tank looks great. I understand from a fair
bit of research that quite a few stonies like more lagoon like nutrient
rich water,
<Relatively... yes... and the poritids you have need
such... the other Scleractinians fine with this>
the question is is
this why they all seem to be growing and happy or am I awaiting disaster
?
<... no worries>
Assuming disaster is around the corner I have
14 x12 x 10 space in my sump which I could either turn into a Mud refuge
I think I have read every faq on this site) or I could fit about another
15kilos of rock in the sump. So in short am I playing with fire with
nitrates and if so which is best use of the sump in your opinion. Thanks
for your forthcoming reply and your great work on this site.
<I
wouldn't "sweat" the NO3 concentration here... as all is/seems to be
functioning fine. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Snails, Stars and Nitrate 03/15/2008
My tank's ammonia and
nitrite's level is always zero but my nitrate is stuck at 0.05. I just
did a 25% water change and it is still 0.05 ppm. What can I do besides
water changes to lower the nitrate level?
<<there is seriously
nothing to be concerned about with a level of nitrate of 0.05>>
pH:
8.4-8.6
<<fine>>
Also, in my trash I found a turbo snail that I
accidently threw away two days ago (thought it dead, I was proven wrong
just now). Amazingly, it is alive in my marine aquarium after two days
in the trash (good thing the garbage was moist :) . Another hitchhiker
is a small starfish. Very small starfish (few mm across with three long
arms and two stubs).
<<Yes, its amazing how hardy they can be. I
have a couple who regularly spend time above the water line on my tank>>
What is the maximum ppm nitrate these animals can tolerate?
<<I
always think around the 20ppm MAXIMUM kind of level>>
As for the
starfish, I have a 20 gallon and I know they get very big so I am pretty
concerned with how fast they grow. Do I have to feed it often when it
stops eating algae? It is very small at the moment.
<<Sounds like an
Asterina star.. More info can be found here on these and by reading the
linked articles and FAQ's http://www.wetwebmedia.com/asterinafaqs.htm >>
Thank You.
<<Hope the above helps, thanks for the questions. A
Nixon>> Maroon Clown
Acting Strange, Very High Nitrates 9/12/07
Dear Crew Member,
<Hello>
I have a 4" gold-striped maroon fish who I've had in my 40
gallon salt water aquarium for well over a year. He has always been
healthy and loves to nestle in his bubble tip anemone. The anemone has
shrunk over time and now the clown fish avoids the anemone and
consistently shimmies in almost a vertical position as if he is
struggling to reach the top.
<Clowns do have strange behaviors, the
concern here is what is wrong with the anemone?>
He has no outward
signs that I can detect such as ulcers; however, his dorsal fins are
noticeably clamped down. The only redeeming quality is that he is still
voraciously eating with all my other fish.
<A good sign.>
Once he
finishes eating, he resumes his behavior of shimmying. I've never
noticed this behavior before. Is this behavior symptomatic of "velvet"?
<Does not sound like it to me.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/amylloodiniumart.htm >
All my parameters
are within range except for my nitrates which are 100 PPM.
<Very
high, dangerously high, this is your problem.>
I change 5 gallons
every two weeks but I have neglected to use my Pura NitrateLok packs
because I haven't regenerated them yet.
<Set up the water changes and
find the source of the nitrates, NitrateLok is just a band-aid. Are you
overfeeding, overstocked?>
Please advise whether you suspect some
underlying illness or whether this behavior is typical or atypical with
clown fish.
Thanks in advance for your prompt response.
Sincerely,
Tom
<Get those nitrates in line and I bet you see an improvement in
the anemone and overall happier tank. The clown's behavior on its own is
not terribly troubling, most likely it just found a new place to host
since the anemone is no longer viable.>
<Chris>
Please help me! what are the symptoms of high trates on Acro's?
9/4/06
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<"Ralph">
after going nearly
insane for months, it "appears" that I have found my problem with my
Acro tips receding, bleaching, or sloughing, & then, eventually dying.
The test kit that I was using over the past year was showing 0 trates
for the last 9 months. (It was showing nitrates in the 5-20 range the
first 3 month, however).
I tested trates about 3 weeks ago with
Salifert, and it showed 25!!!!!! So for the past 6 months, I can only
guess that my trates were between 25-80!!!!!!
trates are down to 5
right now, & I expect them to be 0 soon as I am using AZ-NO3.
other
params are as follows:
temp: 80
Salt: 1.26
<Missing a zero
here>
phosphates: .008
Calcium: 440
Alk: 9.0 / 3.2
Mag:1500
2 questions:
1) would sky high trates cause the tips to
do that?
<Mmm, could... or perhaps better put, whatever the cause of
this high nitrate reading might well be involved>
2) if you have
used AZ-NO3 before, what do you think? Also, were all fish, Acro's,
inverts ok?
<Maybe... is a good product... generally "works">
Thanks A lot for your feedback!
Ralph Scheriff
Hobby Experience:
08-23-2005
Current Tanks: 55 gallon Reef, AGA mega-flow II sump, ASM
G-2 Skimmer, 2 x 150 HQI & LED, fuge, 65 #LR, reactor w/ ROWA, Tunze
6060, Seio 820, Seio 620, Various SPS, 1 Pagoda, 2 Clowns, 3 Chromis,
Gamma, Talbot, & YWG.
<You should see some improvement in your SPS
within a few weeks if the high nitrate was a direct cause. Bob Fenner>
Naso Hunger Strike and High Nitrates 2/2/06
Hi again,
<Hello Mordy, Adam J with you this time.>
My 6 inch Naso, who has
been with us for about 5 months (in a 125 FOWLR with some other friends)
has gone on a hunger strike. When I first got him it took me nearly
three weeks to get him to eat after which he ate anything I fed, like a
pig. Feedings are daily flake, frozen and Nori. Past week he has not
been eating, wandering aimlessly, swimming through food and hanging
around the Nori but not eating.
<Hmm, any obvious stresses that
would have caused this? How long has the hunger strike ensued?>
Belly is starting to get noticeably pinched but still swimming actively.
Does not appear to be sick nor do any tank mates. I have three things
that I think it may be related to; 1. recently added about 45lbs of LR
to the 130 already there (changed his living space no doubt), 2. Higher
nitrates 40-50ppm
<Mmm, yes surgeons are quite sensitive to high
levels of wastes/dissolve organics in general, in a FOWLR you need to
get this number no higher than 20, 10 and less is preferred.>
3.
elevated phosphates. Any of these things sound like a good enough
reason?
<See above.>
What can I do to rectify the situation?
<Large water changes and possibly try adding a nutritional supplement to
the food like Selcon, also consider some fresh algae (such as
Gracilaria) or even live brine; yes I know it’s not nutritious but
better than nothing.>
Thanks for all your help, past & present.
<Anytime.>
Mordy
<Adam Jackson.>
High Nitrates in a Nano System - 05/14/06
Hello everyone,
<<Hello!>>
Thanks in advance for your help and all the great
information on your site.
<<Quite welcome...glad you
find it useful>>
I have a 12 gallon eclipse system that has been set
up for a little over 4 months with about 15 lbs of live rock and 1
1/2-inch sand bed. I've also upgraded the stock light to a 32w SunPaq
50/50 and added a sand shark internal filter for extra flow. After
reading about the bio-wheel I took it out and am now running the stock
filter with Chemipure and some filter floss changed every few days.
<<Great!>>
My inhabitants are: 2 firefish, 1 percula clown, 2
feather dusters, 1 open brain, 4 crabs, 1 red foot snail, 1 sand sifting
star,
<<The star will not live in this small system...please do some
reading here and among the links in blue:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sndsftstrfaqs.htm >>
1 skunk shrimp,
zoanthids, and 4 mushrooms. Even with twice weekly 1 - 1 1/2 gallon
water changes, I am constantly battling high nitrates.
<<Mmm, your
source water maybe?>>
They stay around 60 ppm.
<<Yikes! This
should be having deleterious effects on your livestock. Check your test
kits...use new/kits of a different brand to confirm>>
My ammonia and
nitrite levels are at 0. My feeding schedule is as follows: 2 or 3
flakes of Formula One broken up into edible pieces, 4 times per week,
1/4 inch of Liquid Life Marine Plankton, 3 times per week,
<<I would
suspend feeding this product (any/all liquid foods) until you
determine/correct your nitrate problem>>
2 pellets of Formula One,
twice per week, hand feed brain one small piece of frozen scallop twice
per week. All the inhabitants seems to be doing well. The Zoa's are
multiplying, the brain is nicely colored and eats well, and the fish do
not seem to be distressed at all.
<<Which makes me
suspect your test kit all the more>>
My question is, would it be
beneficial to also add Purigen in the filter with the Chemipure? Any
suggestions in battling this nitrate problem would be very helpful.
<<The Purigen could prove useful on this system...but more important is
determining the source of your nitrates. If the nitrate reading is
true, it will soon start to malaffect your livestock. Firstly, confirm
the validity of your test kit, if accurate, check your source water (are
you filtering your water?)...if both test kits and source water check
out, start doing 50% water changes every other day to bring the nitrates
down until you can determine/eliminate the source...and have a read
here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm
>>
Thanks,
Debra
<<Regards, EricR>>
90 Gallon Reef Tank, nitrate 7/23/05
Hi Guys,
I have a 90
gallon reef tank that has been up and running for over a year. All is
well other than my feelings about my livestock and a possible
overstocking issue.
I currently have 5 small Green Chromis, 1 Neon
Dottyback, 1 Lawnmower Blenny, 1 Malaysian Clown, 1 medium Hippo Tang, 1
Medium Sailfin Tang ( I know, but they seem to get along just fine :), 1
Six Line Wrasse, 1 Jawfish, 2 Black Ocellaris Clownfish, 1 Blackcap
Basslet, and 1 Blue Chromis. That's right 16 fish in all. My corals
include 1 HUGE Toadstool Leather, Ever reproducing POM POM Xenias, 1
Devils hand, 2 clusters of Sun Polyps, some star polyps, 1 Large Sebae
Anemone, 1 Leather finger coral, Several Ricordea rock and mushroom
rocks, some Seamat, and 130lbs of coralline encrusted liverock.
I
also have a cleaning crew of several Brittle/Serpent/Sand Sifting
Starfish, many hermit crabs, a Sally lightfoot, Porcelain crab, Turbo
Snails, 2 Cleaner Shrimp & 20 or so Nassarius Snails. (Hope I got that
last one right :)
<Quite an assemblage>
I change 10 gallons of
water every week religiously using R.O. only.
My Ammonia and
Nitrites are 0. PH is 8.4. Alkalinity is in the 200 range. Nitrates are
currently in the 30ppm range most likely due to the bio load. I use the
quick dip test strips several times a week.
The corals are acting
normal, Sun Polyps open in the P.M. all others in the A.M. when the
actinics kick on.
I feed sparingly, maybe too sparingly but I want
to keep my water as good as possible.
My question is, are my
Nitrates too high? Should I downsize my bio load or change more water
weekly. What do you think???
Thanks in advance.....
Doug-
<Sounds like a very nice, well-maintained/operated system... Nitrate
concentration, as an abstract, concept... is "over-rated" in terms of
its "importance"... I don't think its presence here is indicative of
trouble, much stress. I've written re, following up on Tom Frakes (now
out of Aq. Systems) piece/ideas re "Nitrate Menace" (in their qtrly.
infomercial SeaScope)... not to worry. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Goin' On A Hunger Strike - 08/11/2005
I have a 150 gallon marine
tank. My dwarf lion (D. zebra) has not eaten in a month (frozen krill).
<Disturbing....>
Have tried many ghost shrimp, crab, shrimp, etc. to
no avail. My 8" snowflake eel seemed to be having trouble eating also
and recently died.
<A major concern....>
He did not
seem thin and actually seemed swollen.
<An excellent
clue....>
My 5" porcupine puffer quit eating for 3 days but now is
eating fine. frozen krill). My powder blue tang and other herbivores
seem to be unaffected. No change in appetite or behavior. The lion
appears to try to suck in the food but cannot. My water quality seems
good.
<Seeming good is not enough info.... Be certain
ammonia and nitrite are ZERO, pH 8.3, salinity 1.021-1.024....>
But
my nitrates are high.
<Also of concern. How
high? Above 20ppm can be an issue.>
I have done additional water
changes (more than normal), I run a UV sterilizer, protein skimmer and
do regular filter changes.
<Try to find the source of
your nitrates.... I would be concerned that the tank may be overstocked
if you cannot keep nitrate down with reasonable water changes.>
No
fish in the tank have bad fins, color or any abnormalities. And there
have been no recent illnesses or fish additions. I would appreciate any
suggestions.
<My first guess is purely environmental issues. Get
more water changes done, pronto, if anything is mildly amiss there. Try
feeding foods soaked in garlic extract to stimulate an appetite. If
still unsuccessful, you might want to consider the possibility of
internal parasites.... the swollen eel, after having not eaten, may be
an indicator, here. Are any of the fish excreting long, clear-ish
strands of poo? You might consider offering a food medicated with
Metronidazole or Praziquantel, or treat these fish in a quarantine tank
with either of those in the water.>
Thanks.
<Wishing you
well, -Sabrina>
Nitrates/coral 10/19/05
Hi
team,
Can nitrates at about 20ppm cause coral to develop a fungus
and die?
Thanks
Mohamed
<Mmm, generally not... though,
depending on what the underlying cause of nitrate accumulation is/are,
this stress can/does contribute to lowered vitality, resistance. Bob
Fenner>
Nitrate or
Nitrate-Nitrogen? (4/3/2004)
Hi,
I was wondering, what is the
top line of NO3 level that is allowable in the fish only marine tank.
<Not more than 20 ppm Nitrate Ion, lower if keeping sensitive
species> I have Fastest and Salifert Nitrate Test kits and the Fastest
kit says that up to 20ppm NO3-N is ok for fish only tank. <An uncommon
way to test...measuring Nitrates as Nitrate-Nitrogen is usually
misleading, as the vast majority of hobbyist test kits measure Nitrate
Ion> So, that means about 80ppm of NO3 is ok. Am I right? <Not at
all. As previously stated I would not allow N03 Ion to rise above 20
PPM or less if possible, depending on the species being kept> My tanks'
nitrate level is about 6ppm NO3-N (Fastest) and about 25ppm NO3
(Salifert) <closer to 27 ppm>. I see people who have NO3 level going up
to 100ppm in your site. <Definitely NOT recommend> I wanted to set a
target Nitrate level and keep that going in my tank by setting water
changes schedules and using chemical media like Seachem's Purigen. <As
low as possible, but realistically for a fish only tank without a DSB
would be 10-20 ppm. I just recently started using Purigen, we should
share results> I have this MS Excel sheet that calculates and predict
nitrate level in the future with given parameters like gallons of water
changed and past nitrate levels in the tank. <send us a copy :) > I
know that 0ppm is best Nitrate level but I don't want to over do it and
have the fish all stressed out. <In a fish only tank it's best not to
be obsessive over it, zero would be hard to attain with many of the
messier fish and without a DSB>
I learn lot of stuff about marine
aquarium maintenance from your site. <As do I>
Thanks, -hsk
<No
problems. M. Maddox> Nitrate production
I have a
saltwater tank that is 10 months old. Everything is fine except I am
worried about the nitrate levels getting out of hand in the future. I
use a Fluval 404, Tide Pool 2 wet dry filter with overflow box and
Berlin protein skimmer. I did read before hand about the problems with
wet/dry filters but really it was the best option for me at the time to
use to start up the tank. I know that you have recommended to others
with wet/dry filters to just remove a little bit of the biomedia at a
time until it is all gone. The Tidepool has a wheel so all the media
would have to go at once or all stay. Nitrates are at about 10ppm now
and all other levels are within normal limits. I am just worried that
the nitrates will climb. I have a 110 galloon tank and change about
20-30 galloons every week. Will I face a nitrate problem and how should
I adjust the Tidepool and biomedia to prevent this problem. Thank you
for your help. Abby
<You don't mention what you keep in this
aquarium. Sounds like fish only, so no worries! Just stay on top of the
water changes. If it's a reef tank then you may need to address this
soon. In either case you can't remove biocapacity (filter media) without
replacing it with another or you will overload your tank. Removing
biomedia usually involves adding a nitrate reducing media like Live rock
and deep sand beds first. These need to be cycled and well established
before removing anything from the wet/dry or the Biowheel. Hope this
covers it! Craig> Re: E. quadricolor
Hello All,
Thanks for the good advice in the past!
<You are welcome.>
I
bought a green tipped bubble anemone yesterday and put him in my FOWLR
tank (50 gallon). My nitrates tested around 20. Too high?
<Closer to
zero would be better.>
What do I need to watch for in the animal to
see if it is affecting him?
<Once you see symptoms, it will be too
late.>
I plan to do water changes to get this level down.
<This
will help if your new water is free of nitrates (RO or DI water with a
good salt mix).>
Would a refugium setup be a good idea here to keep
it very low in nitrates?
<Yes, another part of the equation along
with the water changes, other nutrient export processes, proper feeding,
and all other aspects of good husbandry.>
My lighting is 2 55-watt
Custom Sea Life Smartlamps. The tank is only 16" deep and the tallest
live rock is 10" from the bottom. Is the lighting adequate?
<It does
not sound like it. I would ballpark this as about half to three quarters
of needed light.>
I plan to feed him Formula One and Mysis a few
times a week. Let me know if there is anything else I need to know. I
have read through the website and some of the FAQ regarding this animal.
Thanks again for your services. Michael
<You are welcome. -Steven
Pro> Hardy Inverts
Hi. My tank has a nitrate level of 25
ppm. Which invertebrates are rather nitrate tolerant?
<Mushroom
anemones would be ok.>
I would like to add algae grazers and
scavengers but have good growths of Caulerpa and Halimeda as well as
coralline red so I would rather not have too much eaten. Which
herbivores could now be added to control other algae but which would
leave most of these introduced species alone?
<Various algae eating
snails would leave the macroalgae and coralline alone. -Steven Pro>
Nitrates
HI bob,
I have a 240 gal. FO tank with 100lbs
liverock, under the tank wet dry system, plus a protein skimmer. My
nitrate level is 25mg/L. This is with a Tetra test kit. I cant seem to
get the nitrates any lower. All of the fish are doing well. Is 25mg/l of
nitrates too high of a level?? Thanks
<Good question... some nitrate
is inherent in almost all systems... indicative of too crowded, overfed,
under filtered/aerated/circulated conditions... Aquariums with Wet-Dry
filters have much more nitrate as a consequence of over-driven
nitrification... But 25 ppm is no problem for a fish only system... and
the reality (or at least in my opinion and experience) the state of
health of your fishes is not just more, but all-important, compared with
any given test/s. I wouldn't worry, and don't believe 25ppm is a problem
here. If you want to lower this, the use of live rock, a refugium/sump,
macro-algae, a deeper sand bed, perhaps a plenum... even pulling
out/discarding the plastic bio-media in the wet-dry would all accomplish
this. Please read over our site re these ideas starting here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/no3probfaqs.htm
Be chatting my friend. Bob
Fenner> Lee Nitrates and Substrates
Hi bob-
<Anthony
Calfo in your service while Mr. Fenner has hit the road with the
traveling Bob Show>
Your web-site has given me info overload....in a
good way.
<now try browsing the site with only actinic lights on in
the room and Pink Floyd music playing in the background>
For
starters, I have a 55 gal salt tank. Assorted tangs, choc. chip star,
green brittle, 2 peppermint shrimp,2 small urchins and a feather duster.
Tank is about 5 years old.
<just curiously...how many tangs and what
kind in the 55gall?>
The substrate is a crushed coral, average size
is about that of a bb.
I have a big double wheel emperor filter on
the back, a Prizm protein skimmer, a magnum 350 canister that is full of
bio-balls and covered with a floss filter and 1 powerhead. Lighting is 2
55w compact flour. daylights and 2 55w blues. The stronger lighting and
protein skimmer are new additions in past few weeks.
<excellent...you'll appreciate them ever more in time>
I did a 15 gal
water change with the nitrates between 25-50mg/l. I use a vacuum siphon
and dig down into the coral .
<the phrase "dig down" into the gravel
is a bit scary... if you aren't already doing it, gravel siphon the top
inch of a three to five inch substrate and no more than that.
Particulates shouldn't make it much deeper if you are not overfeeding or
have enough detritivores, and you stand to do more harm than good by
compromising the fauna>
On recommendation from my LFS I rinsed out
half of the bio-balls in tap water because they were very packed with
muck.
<I'm glad you rinsed them (although I would have used aged
water from the tank from a water change before discarding it).
However...for future reference... they should not accumulate any such
muck. Either the pre-filter isn't working properly, there is a design
flaw or perhaps you got busy or forgetful on prefilter maintenance>
I
was not sure water was getting through them. Anyway, The day after the
water change the nitrates were off the scale, 100+, and the fish were
puffing quite rapidly. I changed another 5 gal the next day and it may
have brought nitrates down a bit. But the poor fish look like they are
suffocating. I use tap water that is conditioned with a
chlorine/chloramine neutralizer. It checked ok when tested for nitrates.
I have had this tank for years with no major problems and my routine has
not really changed.
<if the gravel siphon was aggressive, you may
have liberated noxious elements. The fact that your bio-balls
accumulated any matter at all on them suggests that you a problem with
nutrient export processes (which are on the mend in part with the
skimmer<smile>>
The bio-ball rinse after 4 years was a first though.
<not the immediate problem... couldn't produce nitrate that fast (takes
days to weeks)... it was a necessary evil>
And the recent addition of
skimmer and new stronger lights.
When I was siphoning the bottom this
time I moved some of the larger rocks and some large amounts of dark
green or brown matter came out. I have a feeling that it was good stuff.
<not sure I follow you thinking...sounds like accumulated
detritus/sediment (bad stuff most often)>
My thinking (after long
conversations and lots of time on your web site) is that the increased
flow in the bio-balls is producing more nitrates and that I destroyed
some (or a lot) of the good bacteria in the substrate that convert
nitrates.
<I disagree on the first count if the time frame is hours
to a couple of days, but I agree on the second count>
But the LFS
tells me that nitrates are not that harmful
<Wow...a very broad
statement ... more false than true. Small amounts of nitrate harmless or
necessary for marine life, large amounts fatal... beginning with tangs,
angels and butterflies>
and something else must be causing the
increased respiration. I feel that I am a bit out of my league on this
one. HELP!!!!
<it simply sounds to me like the misapplication of
course substrate which easily traps detritus (as you have noticed) has
finally caught up with you... you are making good changes to help the
water quality>
They also suggested that I push the coarse crushed
coral towards the back and put a layer of finer coral on top of that and
then top it off with a thin layer of sand. And then never vacuum the
bottom again. Is that a good idea?
<quite frankly the idea horrifies
me. I am glad you are seeking second opinions. Crushed coral by virtue
of its size is inherently going to trap detritus. The rule of thumb for
many aquarists with a static bed of substrate (no flow trough) is 1/2
inch or less OR five inches or more. And with a deep substrate you'll
need finer sand and/or adequate detritivores to keep it serviced
properly. The advice of your LFS will only trap nutrients in this case>
What are your thoughts? This is a new problem for me and I want to make
sure I can correct it as soon as possible.
<if it isn't now or going
to be a hardcore reef tank, you do not need or want a deep substrate.
You might consider siphoning most of the gravel out and only leaving a
1/2 inch behind. Any more will trap sediment too easily, but shallow
media can be cleansed with good water movement which keeps sediments in
suspension for nutrient export (skimmer, etc.)
The poor fish are
really working the gills I hope I provided enough pertinent info. I am
sorry this is so long winded but I thought it would make it easier for
you to help me.
Thank you in advance Dennis
<keep reading and
asking questions, bud. Best of luck, Anthony> Snowflake Moray,
Nitrates, Clown Trigger
Hi Bob, I have a 28" Snowflake Moray in a
180 gallon tank. I have had him for six years, during which time he has
grown from 16". His appetite is great, eagerly eating silversides and
supermarket-bought squid, scallops and shrimp. He is also pretty active
for a moray, swimming about in the full light of the tank during the
day. He gets along well with his tankmates, which consist of an 18"
Jewel Moray, 4" Bursa Trigger, and 7" Clown Trigger. About four weeks
ago, I noticed a white spot on the outside of his eyeball. I assumed it
was the result of a scratch from the usual tussle at feeding time, or
perhaps from accidentally scraping up against a rock. However, the spot
has not gone away. It is covering 25% of his eye, and is the color of
"whiteout" you use on typewriter paper (not really grey or cloudy). The
shape is irregular. His behavior is still very good. He never scratches
and isn't breathing heavily, nor has his appetite diminished. But, I'm
puzzled as to how to rid him of this. The only step I have taken is to
lower the SG to 1.017, hoping to discourage/ kill possible parasites.
I'd rather not medicate if it is not necessary, and I don't have a
quarantine tank large enough to house this bruiser should I decide to
pull him out & medicate. Suggestions/ ideas on what this is?
<Probably a bacterial infection from some sort of physical damage. Try
using one tablespoon of Epson salt per 5 gallons of water. It will help
to remove fluid from behind the eye and allow the eel's immune system to
rid itself of the infection.>
Also, considering the hardy yet heavy
feeders I am keeping (with the probable addition of a fifth fish, likely
a grouper or large angel),
<The grouper would be a better choice.>
what should my nitrate ceiling be? I'm consistently struggling to get it
to 40ppm. Is that unrealistic? Is 60-100ppm acceptable long-term with
these fish?
<I do not think anything over 40 to be acceptable. Try
increasing the frequency and/or amounts of your water changes,
aggressive protein skimming (with these guys you should have a full
collection cup of skimmate the color of hot tea to coffee daily, and
possibly the use of purified water.>
Also, how large and aggressive
do you think the clown trigger will get in this tank?
<Fairly large
and fairly aggressive. I am frankly surprised you have had not trouble
with him and the other trigger, yet.>
He has a moderately bad trigger
"attitude", ok with his present company, but with some temper tantrums
(biting the glass when unfed, tossing shells around, etc.), and has
killed a 7" Harlequin Tusk added to the tank.
Thank you for your
advice! You are a great resource!
Steve
<Thank you for the
compliment. I will be sure to pass it along. -Steven Pro>
Nitrates Harmful
I have just read several posts on your website
regarding nitrates and thought I would throw in two cents from a couple
of sources.
<Okay, thanks>
First, I called the maker of Novaqua
and Amquel regarding the use of their products. Dr. Rofen (sp?)
<correct> said that nitrates do not harm any aquatic life. Nitrates
USUALLY are accompanied in the water by other organic compounds that are
harmful to aquatic life. The scientific community do not have tests for
these "other organic compounds". Therefore, we test for nitrates and
assume that other harmful organic compounds are also present.
<This
is an approximately correct statement... Nitrates by themselves are
rarely harmful to captive aquatic life>
He did say that it is
possible for the water to test positive or high in nitrates and not have
high concentrations of the other harmful organic compounds.
<Yes>
I have read a similar comment attributed to R. Shimek (sp?)<Shimek> -
nitrates are not harmful to aquatic life.
<Again... in a manner of
speaking, yes>
Could this explain why my 65 gal saltwater tank
regularly measures 80ppm in nitrates and the tank looks clear and free
of algae?
<Could be, but there are several other possible
"reasons/explanations" that would account for this>
It has been set
up for years. No matter how many water changes I do, the nitrate level
never comes
down. Maybe, I do not have these other organic compounds.
Maybe I'm lucky?
<Could be either, both or neither>
Maybe
something in the new saltwater encourages nitrate growth? (The tapwater
tests 0 for nitrates).
<I do agree, concur with your conjecture re
"something in new seawater" does encourage the accumulation of the end
products of nitrification... on the one hand more "complete" sources of
inorganic molecules... on the other a more noxious mix of chemicals that
selectively poison/favor some groups of competing and bacteria-predatory
organisms...>
Just some info that may be helpful.
<More outwardly
leading. Bob Fenner> Fix the env. first...
Mr. Fenner,
thanks for the response, I do have another question if you do not mind.
I am very concerned with the 160, I have huge angels, and all seem to be
slowly getting worse (scraping on rocks, jerky movement). I have been
treating the tank with light doses of Maracyn, but I think the high
trates are the source of stress (i.e. plastic bio-balls, fluidized bed,
and feeding them VHP food). After performing a 30 gal water change, the
trates are right at 80ppm, my ultimate question is this, SHOULD I COPPER
THE TANK?
Or should I try Maracyn2 first? It is FO tank, with some
live rock (not worried about that), but I am concerned I might kill off
the bacteria bed, and ultimately kill the fish with high trites as the
tank recycles. I am afraid to try fresh water dips, would they help?
thanks
>>
No to coppering the tank, using any more/other
antibiotics... look to the causes... you know what they are... and solve
the source of the high nitrates themselves... See our previous
interchange below... Do you know what I'm getting at? Work at reducing
your nitrates... remove the plastic media, put in a denitrating bed,
Siporax beads, Macro-algae... more live rock...
Bob Fenner
Nitrates
Bob,
I just started my saltwater aquarium three weeks
ago. I introduced 45 lbs. of live rock and 2 lbs. of live sand 2 weeks
ago. My ammonia level is a little high
<How high? More than 1.0
ppm?>
and the nitrate level is real high.
<Again, imagine you're a
pet-fish type of guy, wishing to help folks like yourself over the
Net... receiving this sort of information... How much is "real high"?
tens of ppm?>
I was told I needed to do a 20% water change and this
would help. Guess what? It is still the same.
<This would have been
my guess...>
By the way I have 5 snails in the tank and they are
fine. What can I do to correct this problem
<What problem? Some
ammonia? At three weeks this should be... going... and I would only "do"
something like a water change... if "it" was over 1.0 ppm or much of
whatever life (on/in the rock, sand) was obviously dying... otherwise,
such changes only forestall complete cycling (i.e. marked by the
absences of ammonia)...
If you're only seeing some single digit, or
even a few tens of ppm of nitrates, don't worry... We can talk about
this topic on and on... but this is not of/by itself dangerous,
problematical... in point of fact, this is a desirable, expected result
of new set-ups of your kind...>
where I can introduce fish to my
aquarium?
<When the ammonia is gone...>
Richard Pierce
"New
hobbyist" >>
<Please try to be patient... "things" are progressing in
your system... the die off of some of the life that is producing the
ammonia will cease soon... Do check over what reference materials you
have, and try to understand that (here's something easy to state that
for once everyone CAN agree on), there are MANY, disparate opinions on
how to go about most all procedures in the marine aquarium hobby... You
will need to become an informed hobbyist, and make your own decisions
(as in "nothing is decided till it's done) re alternative opinions (mine
inclusive).
Bob "too philosophical this AM" Fenner> NITRATE
hi bob, how are you doing? <Fine> I have emailed you previously about a
sea anemone of mine. I really am grateful for your advice. I have a few
questions about steps I need to take. in my tank right now I have 3
percula clowns, 1 maroon clown, 1 high fin cardinal, 2 red shrimp, 1
starfish, 1 purple pin cushion, 1 snail, 10 small hermit crabs, 1 medium
hermit crab, and 15 pounds of live rock. I did a small water change this
weekend. the nitrate rose from 20 ppm to a raging 60 ppm. <Yikes> the
make up water test negative for nitrate. ammonia and nitrite are at 0.
my angelfish died two days later. I have only lost three animals in five
months. the question that really intrigues me is, the fish and anemone
lived for three months before dying? do you think this is because of the
nitrate explosion?
<Yes, or related more definitively to the cause/s
of the nitrates...> do you have any ideas on what made it rise so
dramatically?
<Possibly a massive die-off on nitrifiers... or an
infusion of proteinaceous material... food, some off-set by your
livestock... An overactive imbalance between aerobic/anaerobic microbial
life... for instance, wet-dry plastic media, fluidized bed filter,
clogged particulate type... mis-supplementation with sugar-based
additives...>
currently I add Phytoplex for the live rock and
essential elements to make up for the skimmer and carbon filtration. do
I need to start adding calcium or any other water additives to help the
live rock?
<Who knows? You may not need to add anything... do you
test for biomineral, alkalinity concentration?>
if I do, how should I
start? what speed should I start at? what does it mean when the product
says for fish, invertebrate and reef tanks only?
<Take ten (or more)
giant breaths... and get ready for a bit of "brain sweat"... you need to
step back a bit... from the situation and your current understandings...
Do read over the set-up, maintenance sections posted on the site:
www.WetWebMedia.com... esp. those on pH, Alkalinity, Calcium... in part.
the FAQs areas... And avail yourself of a read through Baensch Marine
Atlas v.1 and v.1 of The Modern Coral Reef Aquarium... no sense
proceeding here not having a thorough grounding in what you're doing...>
I only run two 18" 50/50 at this time. I do not plan on adding anything
else until I get a new lighting system. I plan to go full reef in the
future. I appreciate any advice you can give to me.
Thank you for
your time. James
<Read, reflect, understand James. Bob Fenner>
Re: tank problems/ Induced Nitrates
Hi Robert,
I wanted to
give you an update on my tank problems. I've been doing 50% water
changes daily. I borrowed my brother-in-laws wet dry from his 55 gal.
tank, set that up, have the Magnum canister filter going with carbon and
a Poly filter in it. I'm using the "New tank set up" dosage of Cycle.
I've been taking a turkey baster and squirting the live rock a couple of
times a day loosening any dead debris or sucking up any obvious areas
that are disintegrating. I'm cleaning all filters twice a day. As of
last night the Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates were within tolerable
levels for the corals and inverts.
<Ahh, does sound like you've been
industrious, likely have "saved the day"... congratulations.>
I'm
going to continue doing 20% water changes according to the levels and
how they're maintaining and using the Cycle. I've also added De-Nitrate
in my wet dry to try and keep the Nitrates down as they convert.
Does
it sound like I'm on track for a full recovery? At this point the
corals, especially the elegance is looking much better. Any other
suggestions that would help? Am I doing too much?
<Not too much, and
yes... stay the course you're on... intelligently, and all will be fine.
Bob Fenner>
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