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FAQs about Micro-Crustaceans Reproduction/Culture
Related FAQs:
Microcrustaceans/"Pods" 1, Microcrustaceans 2,
Pod Identification,
Pod Behavior, Pod Compatibility,
Pod Selection, Pod Systems,
Pod Feeding, Pod Disease,
Pod Reproduction,
Amphipods,
Copepods, Mysids, Brine
Shrimp, Hermit Crabs, Shrimps,
Cleaner Shrimps, Banded
Coral Shrimp, Mantis Shrimp, Anemone
Eating Shrimp, Refugiums, Crustaceans 1,
Crustacean
Identification, Crustacean Selection,
Crustacean Behavior,
Crustacean Compatibility, Crustacean Systems,
Crustacean Feeding,
Crustacean Disease, Crustacean Reproduction,
Related Articles: Micro-Crustaceans, Amphipods,
'Pods: Delicious and
Nutritious By Adelaide Rhodes, PhD,
Copepods, Mysids, Hermit Crabs, Shrimps,
Cleaner Shrimps, Banded
Coral Shrimp, Mantis Shrimp, Anemone
Eating Shrimp,
|
"Plankton Culture Manual" by Frank Hoff from Florida Aqua Farms |
Culturing Live Food, 7/9/08
I am looking for guidance on culturing live food. Doing such is driven by
interest rather than a hard requirement from my tank's inhabitants. I have a
24 gallon nano-cube (which I wish I had never gotten since it provides no
flexibility whatsoever. A little bit bigger system with a sump/refugium
would have definitely been the way to go. but I digressed).
<I think many people find this to be true once they get their tanks going.>
The tank has been running for 2.5 years, and it houses 2 Percula Clown fish, 1
small Pipe Organ coral, 1 small colony polyp, and a couple of dwarf crabs and
snails.
The clown fish readily accept flake foods and seem happily fed. On rare occasion
I have fed them newly hatched baby brine shrimp which they loved.
Also, the tank does have copepods that came in from the live rock. The clown
fish hunt the copepods, but the copepods mostly hide in the live rock and
substrate. The copepods are also very small, being barely visible to the naked
eye. Usually it requires a 30x eye piece to get a good look at them.
<Eye strain for sure.>
There seems to be a couple of choices of easily cultured live foods: brine
shrimp, copepods (larger Tiger pods and smaller Harpacticoids pods),
rotifer's, and Mysid shrimp. The live food(s) would be cultured in a dedicated
vessel. My questions are as follows:
1) Is anyone of the cultured foods listed above more useful than the others
given my tank's inhabitants?
<The pods and Mysid by far.>
2) Would introducing any of cultured foods 'live' be harmful for the current
tank's population of copepods? It is my understanding the Mysid shrimp are
voracious and would likely not only consume the current tank's population of
copepods but also would likely consume each other. I want to feed the tank, not
establish a new biological order.
<More likely it would strike some sort of balance eventually, but how many Mysid
could survive long term is hard to say.>
3) Culturing brine shrimp to adulthood would require that they be enriched
before feeding them to the tank. would this be worth the effort?
<Not in my opinion, easier to just feed the fish the food directly, the brine
itself adds almost nothing.>
4) Should brine shrimp eggs be de-capsulated before hatching them? Asked another
way, can adult fish eat them with the shells still attached or is
this just a concern for fish fry?
<Mostly a concern for smaller fish.>
5) Would the soft corals benefit from the addition of any of the listed cultured
live foods?
<Probably marginally.>
Thank you much for your guidance.
<I highly suggest checking out the works of Dr. Adelaide Rhodes, she gave a
great presentation at this year's IMAC, and is an expert on what you are trying
to do. http://www.essentiallivefeeds.com>
<Chris>
Pod Culture Tank 4/13/08
I have had a mixed reef tank set up for about 15 months. I have tried
several experiments throughout this time, including a DSB in-line fuge. I took
an Eclipse 6 (basically a six gallon tank with hood and filter package) and
drilled a hole in each side and put about 4 inches of aragonite substrate and a
couple pieces of rubble. No need to get to far involved because there were many
things I did not like so I took it out.
<Okay.>
When I took it out it had been running for about four months, needless to say
there were all sorts of pods, worms, snails, Chitons, sponges, and starfish
taking up residence.
<Good.>
So I figure why not another pod culturing tank experiment since there were far
more amphipods in there than anything else I could see.
<Sounds good.>
I unhooked the small tank from the system, plugged back in the filter that it
came with in the hood, (the filter is just a small 3 stage unit) and put a
filter sponge in with no carbon, and no bio-wheel running. The system holds
roughly 5 gallons of water 3''-4'' of aragonite substrate, not even 2 pounds of
rubble, and a softball size chunk of Caulerpa racemosa (despite the dangers, it
is an experiment anyways).
<The dangers of Caulerpa get overblown. Many use it without issue.>
I plan to light it with the small light in the hood (12'' 8W T5 20K) and a 65W
grow bulb off to the side.
My display is a 75 gallon, 100lbs. live rock, 6'' DSB(80lbs.) with a Toms
Aquaria Rapids Pro backpack filter system. Light on the fish but many corals
(SPS and LPS), and of course all the cleaners, inverts, etc.. I run heavy on the
carbon, I am currently running my 18w UV at 150 GPH, a skimmer and multiple
rotating powerheads located throughout with all the necessary sponges and floss
pads. I do 10 gallon water change every two weeks, feed sparingly, and have
many, many different types of macro (some nuisance "algae") in my tank that are
all kept in check by one small Lavender Surgeon fish, so I believe my tank would
not be considered a "nutrient rich" tank.
<I would, something is fueling the algae.>
Hopefully this is enough info on the tank, however to answer this question you
may need more info as far as what type of coral, macro, filter feeders in the
display tank, but here it comes.
If I started doing five gallon water changes every week and put the water from
my DT into the culture tank, as well as put a very small amount of live phyto
and a shrimp pellet or two every other day, would that be enough to keep the
pods multiplying and the macro growing?
<It should, yes.>
Also know that I really don't care that much about the Caulerpa, I could always
just put a sponge or more rubble in there. Plus the algae in the display tank
could be using up all the available nutrients in the water so it would not even
make it to the culture tank where the Caulerpa is. Is this possible?
<Yes, you will be far better off having this plumbed in with the display. Let
the Caulerpa grow in the refugium and hopefully not in the main tank.>
I realize this is a broad overview of my tank and it's parameters and may be
hard to answer the main question which is will there be enough nutrient for the
pods to multiply, or too much and the water will foul in between water changes.
Or is this whole thing a silly idea?
<No, it is not a silly idea, sounds like a fun experiment. It will just yield
little if any benefit unless the tanks are plumbed together.>
I know the best thing to do was to leave it plumbed to the DT, but there was
just not enough room to operate and maintain everything properly, so the fuge is
put on hold till after we move.
<This is unfortunate.>
Sorry to completely change the subject but I have a short question. I keep
hearing that a reef tank should produce a lot of dark skimmate.
<Relative to the tank and livestock.>
Not really how much, but how thick. In a standard mixed reef
(''standard''...that's funny) <Good point.> it would be safe to say that a small
fish (say a 2'' Tomato Clown ) will produce more skimmate than say 3 or 4
softball size SPS corals?
<Actually, no. It is surprising how much skimmate SPS corals alone can and do
produce. If you have a LFS with a fishless frag tank, ask to see the skimmer
sometime, you will be shocked!>
Basically you could say size for size/weight for weight a fish produces much
more skimmate than a coral does?
<As compared to size and weight, possibly.>
Considering a little give one way or another as far as different species go.
Example a tang may produce more than a predatory fish that only gets feed once a
day or less?
<Yes, a fish that metabolizes more food/energy than another should in turn
produce more waste.>
I have a small Tomato Clown, DS Goby, Six-line Wrasse, and Lavender Surgeon
fish, very large LTA , around 15 stony corals, and about 20 mushrooms. My tank
is no Tank of the Month, but it is pretty heavily stocked as some of my corals
are of pretty good size.
<Sounds like a nice tank. I have seen a few so called “Tanks of the Month” in
person. While I am sure there are many nice, if not spectacular, tanks that make
it in, Photoshop and such programs has made many of these submissions
questionable. Don’t feel the need to judge your tank against these.>
I have never produced more than a cup of light skimmate in a weeks time (unless
something died). All of my corals are growing, have always grown.
<A good sign.>
Does the amount of skimmate just sound unacceptable, and no matter if the corals
are growing or not?
<The amount would not satisfy me on a system such as this.>
Should I get a better skimmer (again the skimmer is one with the filter and it
is rated to 150 gallon aquariums, even though we all know what a joke that is)
or does that sound fairly normal? The skimmer works on reverse flow with an
airstone and I can watch it work, so I know it is working.
<A better skimmer should be in the plans in my opinion. You will find it even
more valuable to you as your fish and corals grow larger, producing more waste.>
Thank you for all your help.
<Very welcome.>
P.S. I have already had a firm talking-too about Anemones in the reef tank, so
no need mentioning that. Just know that all is well.
<So long as they know to behave! Best regards, Scott V.>
Re: Pod Culture Tank 4/14/08
Thank you for the speedy and knowledgeable reply.
<Very welcome.>
I do however have another question regarding the algae issue and the
amount of excess nutrients in my tank.
<OK>
Considering I do religious WC, maintain floss pads and filter sponges
regularly, and feed sparingly (what I would consider sparingly=5ml DT's
phyto every 3-5 days dosed at night when water circulation is at half
without turning off the skimmer, about 1/3-1/2 cube total of many
different types of frozen foods, mostly every day but sometimes every
other, and 1-2 times weekly soaked in Selcon, and the occasional
spectrum dry food, frozen Cyclops , and Calanus plankton. The later
coral foods are given at night alternating one every other week. As far
as food, that is all I put in.
<If this all works for you, don’t fix it!>
Sub-question: does the light over my tank in one way or
another/directly/indirectly play any part in the amount of organic waste
produced in my tank?
<Indirectly yes.>
If so, I have a total of 476W
(130W-10K-PC/130W420nm-PC/54W-14K-T5HO/54W-460nm-T5HO/108W-10K-T5HO).
Also, does this sound like a good scheme or should I replace the other
460nmT5 with another 14KT5?
<I likely would, you have plenty of actinic with the PC bulbs.>
Any who, I may have been misleading when I was talking about the algae.
If someone took a quick glance at the tank they would probably not see
any algae at all. I was just thinking since I have Red Turf Algae and
others alike that are considered "nuisance" algae, and seeing as how
they have never, in the long time I have seen all these in my tank, seem
them get even remotely out of control, and thus led me to the conclusion
that a high amount of organic waste was not present.
<A fair assumption. If there are no indication of problems then there is
not a problem (in this case).>
So if this is true and its not the food, what about phosphate?
<Phosphate will promote growth of algae, but you will have some due
merely to the regular biological processes of your livestock. No tank is
devoid of algae, the nice tanks simply control it.>
I do WC with RO water and Red Sea Coral Pro salt, I currently dose
limewater as much as my PH will allow (and that's just a whole different
conversation altogether), <Yes.> and I currently employ a filter sock
filled with 250ml of Seachem Phosguard that says it removes phosphates
and silicate. The bottle says it will treat well over 75gal , and it is
changed out every 2 weeks. The one thing that worries me is when I
change it, the media is brown, proof that it is working(?), proof of
phosphate present in the tank(?)
<Likely acting somewhat as a mechanical filter being in the sock, hence
the color. This is probably the same color your sock becomes?>
The water I use is from 5 Star bottling company (RO but not DI). Is
phosphate the main reason for the added stage from RO to DI?
<And nitrate, silicate. Fact of the matter is good RO water is just
fine. Older membranes may produce a lower quality water.>
If so would it help to hook up a PO4 reactor with said media to a tub of
RO water before I do anything with it?
<You could, but what you have sounds like it is working fine.>
Hopefully pulling out all phosphates and silicate before it even makes
it to the tank.
<If there is phosphate in the water it surely pales in comparison with
the phosphate that makes it into your tank with any food. Other life
needs phosphate too, not just algae. You do not want to completely strip
your tank of this.>
MY buddy started up a reef tank about 4 months prior to me. We have done
everything the same, but for the last year he has had a HORRIBLE "hair"
algae problem. Best we can come up with is Bryopsis. However we do not
or cannot get a microscope for definite answer, but it is a problem none
the less. We have tried everything including one of the "reef safe"
algae removers only with near devastating results. For the last year he
has had to do manual removal of every rock at least every two weeks
(with a stiff bristled brush), and just watching this makes me feel
sorry for him. He feeds very sparingly, under any meaning of the word,
has an inline fuge with a massive amount of Chaeto, High PH (never below
8.4), runs a PO4 reactor with SeaChem's PhosGuard, also tried multiple
livestock options such as snails, crabs, urchin, and a Tomini Tang. The
only small differences we do are he uses KM liquid sup., and I use
Seachem powder and Kalk. Could that make a big difference?
<No, there is something else going on. Although two people doing the
exact same thing will usually yield different results with a reef, you
can bet he is doing something different then yourself in this case.>
And one final question. We both started our tanks off on tap water. We
both switched to RO at the same time. His tank was 6 months old and mine
was about 1-2 months old. Is it possible that some of the bad things are
still in there, maybe in the sand or unexposed pieces of rock?
<No, not in a capacity to create the algae issue.>
The tap water around here is extremely hard and just plain $&#@^. Could
that still be contributing to his problem? The only thing we are left
with is to take all the sand and rockwork out and switch it with new
over a period of two months or so. Will this just cover up the problem
for a while and we still need to find the root cause. Will it help him
to start dosing Kalk, and filter all RO water through the PO4 reactor in
a tub like previously stated?
<All of the above it a treatment and not a cure. All things equal, the
algae will return in time. If you suspect high phosphate in your RO
water, by all means test it! Otherwise look at the usual factors: water
flow, water changes, anywhere detritus accumulates and sits (mechanical
filtration/dead spots/coarse substrate) and most of all feeding.
Sometimes it is not how or how much you feed, but what. The frozen foods
tend to have a lot of juice in them that should be drained off to avoid
polluting the tank. I personally use the Spectrum pellets as the main
diet for my fish. Frozen foods are used occasionally. Also, be sure what
is added actually get eaten. Adding what seems like a small amount of
food serves no purpose of most of it goes blasting around the tank!>
Thank you again. This site IS truly a necessity for people in this
hobby. By the way, how much money does it take invested in a hobby
before it has become a lifestyle?
<You’re welcome. I feel anything less than cashing your paycheck down at
the LFS is just doing it half way ? ! Thank you for the kind words, a
link to refer your friend to below, Scott V.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm
Re: Copepod culture 04/15/2008
Hello again Crew,
<<Hello, Andrew here>>
After reading more about amphipods, I'm thinking about culturing copepods
instead. At the moment, I have a 17g Rubbermaid tub that I'd like to use, but
I'll try to convince my dad to let me use one of his 45g breeders.
<<Ok, sounds good>>
Anyways, my amphipod plan was to have a layer of sand on the bottom, along with
some Chaeto and LR rubble. Lighting would be provided via window (sunlight),
heating via heater, circulation via a small submersible pump, and filtration via
HOB filter or canister filter. I would feed the amphipods old fish
pellets/flakes as supplementation. The amphipods would be fed (hopefully at
least a few times weekly) to a pair of maroon clowns, a BTA, a pair of small
gobies (haven't decided which ones yet), my detritivore crew, and maybe an
Acropora coral.
How would this plan differ from an ideal copepod culture?
<<Exactly the same>>
I bought a turkey baster to collect amphipods. Would this be a good tool with
copepods?
<<A valuable tool>>
Are copepods attracted to light, and if so would this be useful for collecting
them? What is the most successful way to collect them?
<<Sunlight is sufficient as copepods are attracted to light>>
With either a 17g or 45g, would they be able to thrive just with the microalgae
growing in the container or would small doses of phytoplankton be needed or be
at least extremely beneficial?
<<Either would be just fine. They should thrive in the macro algae/sand/rock
setup. They will enjoy a small amount of floating algae>>
Would a culture of this size (17g or 45g) be able to function as a staple of my
fishes' diet?
<<Depends on how many copepod eaters your going to be feeding really. Start off
with 2 - 3 thousand as a culture, and hopefully in a month or so, you will be
shooting for around 50,000 pods>>
I have an off-topic question that's bugging me, if you'd be kind enough to
answer it. I'm going to buy my detritivore crew in a couple weeks, being my
first livestock. The crew will consist of hermits, snails, mini stars, bristle
worms, amphipods, spaghetti worms, and anything else that comes in their live
sand. What could I feed them to supplement their diet?
<<Most of the above will feed off the rock, sand etc etc. Adding a tiny pinch of
brine, or crunched up Nori every 2 - 3 days will be fine.>>
Thanks for reading this. This site has helped me many-a-time in the past, and I
know that this won't be the last time I consult it.
TIA, Random Aquarist
<<Thanks for the questions Tia, always good to hear fro you. Hope this helps. A
Nixon>>
Re: copepod culture
04/17/2008
Hello again,
<<Hello again>>
Just a few more questions.
<<Sure>>
1. I was thinking of using the canister filter for the amphipods because
amphipods supposedly love living in them. Is there any need for filtration in
the copepod culture at all as long as I do water changes?
<<no, it should be fine filtering itself et cetra>>
2. I'm guessing that Chaeto would be the best macro to use, considering that it
can be easily removed/ swished around in the display to feed copepods. However,
I'm also considering using Ulva. Which is better, or would a combination of the
two be best?
<<Yes, Chaeto is a great macro to use for the culture. Between the two, i really
like them both. Prefer Chaeto for ease of cropping>>
3. What would be the best sand bed depth for copepods?
<<Depends on the size of the filter really. A good depth of 4 inches would be
great>>
Well, thanks for your help. BTW, when I say "TIA", I'm saying "thanks in
advance", not "Tia". I'm actually a guy known only as Random Aquarist as far as
online aquarium-related activities go, but thanks for the very friendly/
heartwarming comment. I just wanted to remove any misconceptions.
<<Ahhhh...thanks for the clarity>>
Again, thanks for the help. I can always rely on The Crew.
Thanks In Advance, Random Aquarist
<<Hope the above helps. A Nixon>>
Re: copepod culture 04/23/2008
Hello again Crew,
<<Hello again>>
Again, I have a few more questions about copepod culturing.
<<Ok>>
1. All I find are "Tigger Pods", which come from California and the West Coast.
Because I'm setting up a biotope and I don't want foreign "Tigger Pods" in my
tank, I'd rather have a species that does come from the Indo-Pacific. Do you
have any ideas for where I could get such pods? If so, what would be the ideal
net hole size to collect adults (1/64", 1/16", etc.)?
<<Here is a few links for you to peruse
http://www.oceanpods.com/
http://www.livecopepods.com/
http://www.inlandaquatics.com/
http://www.ipsf.com/ <---------your best bet i think for your type of pod
required.>>
2. I really like The Breeder's Net's culture style of just having an empty tank
filled with phytoplankton and copepods. It seems a lot more clean and
productive. Is it really more productive, having no sand or breeding substrate,
or is the sand/rock/Chaeto plan more productive?
<<I personally feel the sand/rock/Chaeto is one of the best ways to culture pods,
always been very successful>>
3. The Breeder's Net plan utilizes an air pump for circulation. Is this as good
or better than using a small, submersible water pump?
<<I don't really see that much difference in using either>>
4. This is another unrelated question, but I'm trying to find an e-tailer that
sells turtle grass and/or oar grass. Do you know of any such dealers?
<<Off the top of my head, i don't know of suppliers for these. Maybe the use
Google or your preferred net search tools would be good.>>
Well, that's it for now.
<<Thanks for the message, hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Thanks in Advance,
Random Aquarist
|
Ideal Amphipod Breeding
Substrate 04/01/2008
Hello again Crew,
<<Hello, Andrew today>>
I have a 17g tub that I plan to culture amphipods in. I've heard that Chaeto,
liverock, sand, and sponges are good breeding substrates. In your experience,
which of these are the best?
<<Chaeto, live rock and sand>>
Here are the side and top views of my current plan for the container. I intend
to make sections out of eggcrate and pump water so it flows through the Chaeto
(thus rolling it) and back towards the pump.
<<Hope this helps, A Nixon>>
|
Amphipod Culturing/Boiling
Rock – 03/27/08
Hello again Crew,
<<Greetings>>
My cousin has lost interest in the aquarium hobby and is selling his 10g tank.
I'm thinking about buying his live rock and/or live sand and using it to make an
amphipod culture.
<<Cool>>
I have several questions.
<<Okay>>
1. Can Ulva or Chaetomorpha be grown using only sunlight?
<<Sure…if it gets enough>>
I'm thinking about having the culture container near a window so I don't have to
use lighting.
<<If the tank will receive some direct lighting it should work…is worth a try
for sure>>
Apparently, after reading about the "copepod farm in a 5L bottle" on your site,
phytoplankton can grow from sunlight alone.
<<Indeed>>
2. Just to clarify, the macroalgae is the food source, right?
<<No, not so much as the epiphytic matter that is on it, and the other surfaces
in the tank. The dense matrix of the macroalgae (Chaetomorpha excels in this, in
my opinion) will function primarily as a place for the critters to live and
breed>>
If so, will the pods eat all of the macro or will it grow quickly enough to stay
ahead?
<<I’ve never seen/known this to be the case…under the right conditions, the
macroalgae will likely outgrow the tank and require pruning. To optimize your
“pod” populations I suggest supplemental feeding. I find the inexpensive shrimp
pellets from Wal-Mart, etc. to work well here and are very easy to feed>>
Also, what would I feed the macroalgae? Skimmate? Plant fertilizer?
<<Mmm, no…this would/will quickly pollute the system. Judicious feeding of the
pods will supply nutrients for the algae as well. Have you given any thought to
filtration/water circulation? Something as simple as a small air-driven internal
sponge filter will probably suffice…though this “refugium” would work better if
plumbed directly to the display it is intended to support>>
I read that amphipods are omnivorous and that they'll eat anything. Would it be
beneficial to add meat to their diet?
<<As in the fore mentioned shrimp pellets, yes…or even a pinch or two of a
quality flake food>>
3. How would I deal with evaporation in a smaller setup without having huge
salinity fluctuations from manually topping off the water every day?
<<Daily ”topping-off” is likely your best/most economical solution for this
small tank…and should work fine>>
4. How does live sand and live rock help amphipods anyway?
<<Provides a matrix/structure for shelter, breeding>>
I've heard of people successfully using playground sand for aquariums/refugiums.
<<Yes>>
Could I use this in my 'pod culture?
<<Certainly>>
5. Let's say I culture the amphipods and whatever they eat. I'm only feeding a
pair of maroon clowns, a BTA, and whatever else will eat them in my tank. Will
this culture be more or less expensive than buying food? I know that's hard to
answer, but can you ballpark it?
<<Look to this culture as a “supplement” to feeding…not as a replacement. You
will still need to provide some prepared foods to your fishes/inverts>>
This is assuming, of course, that I don't sell any 'pods or 'pod food to people
and make some money off of it. Don't get the wrong idea. This isn't an attempt
to make a profit.
<<But no reason it can’t…though I think it would need to be much larger>>
I just want to do this for the experience, for the natural food source, and
because watching things eat each other is awesome. Now to the part about boiling
the rock. My cousin's rock is completely covered in Cyanobacteria and Aiptasia
anemones. I'd like to kill them. Could I just boil the rock and kill everything
so I can just rinse/soak it and not have to cure it? Kinda like a dead coral
skeleton (which, technically, it actually is)?
<<Sure…though a less smelly/messy approach may be to let the rock sit out in the
sun for a couple days, then a freshwater soak overnight followed by a good rinse
with the hose>>
Well, that's it for now.
TIA,
Random Aquarist
<<Regards, EricR>>
Re: Amphipod
Culturing/Boiling Rock – 03/28/08
Hey, thanks for the help.
<<Quite welcome>>
I have a few more questions for you.
<<Okay>>
1. I found a bucket of dry CaribSea Eco-Complete Planted substrate that my dad
had planned on using a few years ago. All of my dad's fish are dead, so could I
use this?
<<Dunno>>
My concern is with the coarse nature of it and possibly any chemicals it could
release that aren't ideal for saltwater.
<<This is my concern as well…though you could contact CaribSea and get their
take/advice re>>
2. I've heard that sponges are great for amphipods. Should I put in a bunch of
filter sponges?
<<Course filter sponges like those made for pond filters can indeed serve as
“housing” for amphipods and other critters…but if you are going to use
Chaetomorpha, I don’t see these as necessary>>
3. I've also heard that pods like a lot of surface area with their live rock.
Should I break the live rock into pieces and make a 'pod pile instead of just
having a few large pieces?
<<If you are adding rock then yes, “rubble” will provide more of the small
cracks/crevices they prefer>>
4. And lastly, I found a lot of sealed bags of Dainichi cichlid food that my dad
also planned on using back in the day. They're in sealed bags and are only a few
years old. Could I feed this to my amphipods or does this freshwater food lack
the nutrients needed by saltwater fish?
<<See if the “pods” will eat it…it may/should be just fine>>
Thanks again,
Random Aquarist
<<Cheers, EricR>>
|
Quick Question on Copepods,
culture/sys., & Mandarin sys. 1/17/08
Hello.
<Hello Pam.>
My first tank has been set up for 8 months now. It's a 53 gallon tank with a 7
gallon sump. I have 55 lbs of live rock, and a shallow sand bed.
I've never noticed a copepod population, and have only seen a couple amphipods
over the months (I've even looked with a magnifying glass). I would like to get
a population of copepods going for my Pygmy Possum Wrasse and Red Scooter
Blenny.
<I’m sorry to say your tank is too small to support the Scooter Blenny,
especially with any completion for food come from the wrasse.>
I have a small section in the sump (about 4" x 4" x 6") that I tried to use for
pods. I placed a ball of Chaeto in there and a 6400K spiral compact fluorescent
bulb with reflector to light it (12 hour reverse lighting schedule) , and added
a bottle of Tiggerpods, but never saw a population build in the display or in
that section of the sump after I initially put them in there. I also took some
of the Tiggerpods in a syringe, and put them in a small pile of rubble I put in
the display, where I thought they might hide and multiply. The Chaeto ended up
dying off in a few weeks, so that spot is empty again in the sump. That's the
second time I've tried Chaeto, and both times it died off. My LFS is having a
group buy on Copepods. To get started, do I need a large amount like the bag of
2000 copepods they will have, or a small bottle or two of 100-200 copepods?
<Neither really. If your tank is setup to support copepod population growth,
then it will grow. If not, adding them will only create a temporary spike in
population.>
I don't seem to be having luck with Chaeto, should I just put rubble down in
that area of the sump, and put the pods in there or in the display or what?
<You may as well start them in the refugium area, but they will find their way
throughout the tank on their own.>
The area of the sump isn't really large enough to have a Deep Sand bed. One
interesting thing....I can't keep Chaeto, but I have one mound of beautiful red
macro algae in the display that grows like crazy and I have to prune it weekly
to keep it from growing too big. The last time I tried Chaeto, it only lasted
for a few weeks, then almost disintegrated. The first time, I think it lasted
for maybe 2 months. Maybe the flow is too slow through that section of the sump
or the section is too small?? The Chaeto doesn't roll at all. Thank you!! Pam
Parameters: Salinity 1.026 PH: 8.3 Alk: 8 dKH Nitrites, Nitrates and Ammonia all
zero. Phosphates: between 0 and .1 Calcium 390 Magnesium 1170
Temp 80f Flow: 25x display size Display lighting 150w 10k Metal Halide and 4 24w
T5s
<There is something going on in your setup that is allowing the red macro to
outcompete the Chaetomorpha in the sump/refugium. You mention a spiral compact
bulb, but what is the wattage? Many setups you read about online have very small
wattage bulbs on the refugium, making the light the limiting factor. This is one
factor you can control, give it plenty of light. I have two 65 watt 6500K
compact fluorescent bulbs lighting my Chaeto. This makes the nutrients I am
trying to export the limiting factor. The Chaeto has better growing conditions
than any algae in the tank, hence it grows and algae in the tank doesn’t! As far
as pod population/production, you probably won’t see much with fish in a tank
this size that can wipe out the population fairly easily. Included link
regarding these fish below. Welcome, best of luck, Scott V.>
http://wetwebmedia.com/mandarins.htm
- Mandarin Dragonette -
Wow...that hurt! <My apologies, that was not my aim. I do seek to be
realistic though, and hopefully it helps in the long run.> Thanks for the
information. You made me change my mind about the "tang tank". <Ah
good.> I have one problem though....I already ordered the mandarin goby. With
the 29G DSB sump/refugium that I have, will I be able to "promote" the
copepod and amphipod propagation to support this guy? <Perhaps, but likely
not quickly enough. They tend to eat and nibble all day, but you may be able to
promote other frozen items like Mysis shrimp.> The sump/refugium is below the
tank. I also have several 10G tanks at my disposal, but they are not used yet.
Will 1 tang and the clowns compete with the mandarin fish for the
copepods/amphipods that are available? <The tang will not, the clowns might,
but you can probably distract them with other food.> Do you have any
suggestions on how I can further promote the copepods and amphipods to multiply?
<Perhaps with a couple of the live sand starter kits.> Thanks for the
help!
Jeff McHenry
<Cheers, J -- >
Micro-Refugium - 02/26/03
Hi:
<Hi Chris, Don tonight>
I have a 55gal (48") FOWLR setup with 5" DSB, 25lbs. LR, Bak Pak 2R
Skimmer, 800gph circulation. I am interested in a refugium, but I am
currently out of cash. I was wondering if I can use an in-tank
acrylic breeder that I have laying around and put some crushed coral (again,
laying around) in it and get some sort of copepod, amphipod thing going? I
read in the daily's recently that CC is a good substrate for their
proliferation. Maybe stick a piece of algae in there too?
<How big is the breeder? A gallon or two? You could set this up if you
wanted, but won't have a real big affect. You really want at least 10G and 15G
would be better. Now you could setup the breeder with the intent of using it to
seed a larger refuge later? Hope this helps, Don>
Thanks, Chris.
Cuckoo For Copepods? (Sorry, Anthony!>
Scott, thanks for your prompt response.
<My pleasure!>
Regarding establishing amphipods and copepods, you do say I am on the right
track with the Live Rock, Crushed Coral, and 260W Coralife Power Compacts (actinic
and Daylight bulbs). Silly question, but where I have the MAGNUM 350
Canister with the filter sleeve installed, will this filter out and kill the
early development of small copepods and amphipods?
<Well, good question. It is possible that some will be "sucked in"
and trapped among the filter sleeve. However, I have seen many wet-dry style
filters and mechanical filters that contained hundreds of amphipods and copepods
of various sizes, and at various stages of development...I wouldn't worry too
much>
Is it worth my while because of this to remove the filter sleeve and not put any
media in the canister (e.g. just let it cycle
water with no filtration and just leave in place for the water circulation until
I see signs of copepods and amphipods? Or is this immaterial and I
should just leave the sleeve in the filter and it's a matter of time before I
get these bugs - while some on your site are working to eliminate them I am
looking forward to seeing them! Thanks again for your help -
David.
<Actually, David- I think that you can leave the sleeve in place...Just make
sure that you clean this, and any mechanical filtration media, for that matter-
on a regular basis. This is a great way to increase water quality. Ultimately,
you could get rid of the sleeve, but if it's properly maintained, I don't see
any real drawbacks to its continued use. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Breeding bugs in my refugium
08/06/03
I have a large system, 450 gal fowlr in house, draining into a 500 gal predator
tank and a 300 gal refugium in the garage, they in turn drain to the sump, then
back to 450 to complete circuit. I feed both the fowler and predator tanks
heavily and the system has been running as set up for 6 months and is working to
perfection. No water or algae problems. Refugium has deep sand bed,8 inches,
live rock. It's only resident is a small Fimbriated moray that I removed from
predator tank and put in the refugium as I was concerned he would be eaten by
the 3 foot tessellated moray that lives there.
After about 6 months as set up, I was hoping to see a huge population of bugs in
the refugium by now, but even with a flashlight, I only see a few. I am assuming
that with the fowlr with heavy bioload draining directly into the refugium and
the messy little Fimbriated moray, that there should be ample
food to sustain a huge population of bugs. Lots of rubble on bottom. oyster
shells etc. along with the live rock. Was thinking of sinking a plastic milk
crate stuffed with filter pads in the refugium to see if this home may be more
to their liking, plus giving me a way to harvest the little buggers, and maybe
asses their population better. Any ideas? Refugium has NO residents
other than the small eel.
Thanks in advance.
<Well, actually, your idea sounds really good. Have you thought about
lighting the refugium and adding macroalgae (I'm very partial to Chaetomorpha
myself)? I'd say try both, and see what you get. You may also want to try direct
feeding the refugium too, something finely ground. Hope that helps, PF>
Refugium, Mysidopsis bahia 10/14/03
Dear Anthony, Thanks to your guidance, my second refugium continues to
thrive.
<to your success/husbandry above all>
Even after re-reading several specific chapters in Reef Invertebrates, I still
have a couple more questions: Can Mysidopsis bahia be mixed with the smaller
copepods and amphipods or will the bigger guys just eat the smaller ones. (about
30 gallons, net of sand and rock)
<hmmm... not a matter of predation so much as competition for
space/resources... fewer groups will ultimately survive in the end. Best to
focus on providing a specific matrix to encourage your target group rather than
trying to "go for all" and failing>
I find that these shrimp are bred worldwide and are very available as they are
used in environmental testing.
<correct>
I found that the addition of 6 large Mexican Turbo snails has pretty much
eliminated all sign of Cyanobacteria. Will these animals affect my
"pod" production?
<not much or at all, assuming the copepods find adequate algae to eat (they
will)>
I am feeding the refugium crushed freeze dried krill, soaked so that is sinks.
Thanks again,
<this will be better for the meat eating amphipods... but not for your
vegetarian copepods/rotis. Do consider a phyto drip for the latter unless the
macroalgae is sufficiently buck-wild.>
Howard in Wisconsin
<Anthony in his chair>
Promoting Pod Growth - 11/20/03
Thanks for all the help in the past and your continued dedication to
hobbyist.
<always welcome.>
I recently set up a new reef tank and want to get all the beneficial critters
really thriving in it b/f I add anything that will prey on them.
<a good notion... and even better to do this I a refugium. Either way do
provide a dense matrix for them to grow in like Chaetomorpha spaghetti algae>
Do I need to be adding something for the pods to eat, or will they find enough
to eat/reproduce in the Fiji live rock.
<small amounts of foods/organics will sustain them... rotting and live algae
and a bit of prepared fish foods will accelerate all>
There will not be anything in there to produce extra detritus and there are only
a few very small pieces of visible macro algae on the rocks. Also, the rock was
curing in another tank for approx 3 weeks after import so not expecting any
cycling, might also help to mention that I am running a ASM G2 skimmer with
little to no skimmate production at this point, and have a 15gal refugium plumed
into the system as well that I put a couple of smaller less attractive pieces of
rock and some rubble in, it's pretty empty at this point. Thanks for your help,
Ryan
<an effective skimmer/brand... just needs tweaked/tuned. Do seek others on
the message boards that own this same model and get perspective on how to adjust
it. Best of luck, Anthony>
Egging Me On..?
>I just did a water change and decided to change the carbon.
>>Alright.
>The carbon was about 2 mos. old. As I dumped out the old carbon I
noticed many, many, many
tiny dark brown eggs in the carbon and inside of the mesh bags. I
would guess
there might be several tablespoons per bag.
>>Wow.. anything like caviar?
>These eggs are tiny, about 1/2 the size of a pin head, very dark brown and
inside of the media bag. I do have a lot of copepods in my sump, are
they related/desirable?
Mike in Hershey, Pa.
>>My goodness, honestly, I wouldn't be able to give you a definitive
answer to that. Assuming they are actually eggs, and those of your
"pods", then if you experienced a subsequent crash in numbers you'd
have your best answer there, without microscopic examination and reference
sources available. Of course, almost all pods are going to be rather
desirable, and if you do experience a crash, then you'll know for next time to
find a way to preserve what you find in the bags of carbon (consider adding them
to a refugium?). Marina
Crab in my reef 12/4/03
Hello Anthony!
<cheers, my friend>
I watched my reef and I realized (to my relief) that the creature I saw the
other day in a dark hole in the life rock was not a mantis shrimp but a crab! It
arrived as a hitchhiker on the life rock and has been hiding for 3 months!
Anyway, I read all about crabs in your book "Reef Invertebrates" and
concluded that I should trap it and take it out of my reef, as I can not
identify it and there are practically no crabs that are reef-safe.
<quite correct>
Next question is about amphipods (or copepods, I am not sure).
<the former look like arched back shrimp/prawn... the latter look like
dots/fleas>
There are hundreds of them on the LR and on the grass of my tank. Some are very
small and some have grown bigger, as there is no fish to eat them (the clown is
swimming at one corner near the surface of the tank and has not yet moved to
other places of the reef). Now I am thinking of culturing the amphipods in my
sump, before I buy my next fish, which might start eating them
(a Neon Goby, Gobiosoma Oceanops). What it the best way of transferring
them in my sump?
<just moving a little bit of dense algae or live rock will do the trick>
I am thinking of moving a couple of LR that have Dictyota, Halimeda and Padina
to the sump, so the amphipods on them will be transferred to the sump,
too. Is it a good idea?
<yes>
I have not a refugium (lack of space), so I would like to do as much as possible
in my sump.
<understood>
Moving some LR with macroalgae on it is my first thought. Second would be a deep
sand bed in the second part of the sump, which would be a problem, because: 1.
There is an EHEIM return pump sitting on the glass of this part of the sump and
2. The DSB would raise the bottom by 10cm, which will make me a slave
to evaporation (will decrease my autonomy). Right now I have an evaporation of 3
liters per day and an autonomy of 7 days. If I make a DSB my autonomy will drop
to 4 days.
Last question for today: when I bought the Clown fish (see attached picture) I
thought is was a juvenile Ocellaris, Now I am not certain any more, as it has
begun to get darker close to the strip on its head and to the white spots on its
back. Can you identify it please? Thanks a lot, Thanassis
<clearly looks like A. ocellaris to me my friend. Best regards, Anthony>
Propelling 'Pods
Hey,
<Hey there! Scott F. with you!>
Right now, I have a 10 gallon reef ( all zoos) with 80 watts of pc
in the coming week or 2, I am getting a 55 gallon tank with once again is going
to be for zoanthids only- I'm going to use cured rock to cycle the tank
quicker.
<Hopefully!>
I plan on getting a couple of gobies including a Green or Target Mandarin so I
want to get a head start for a couple of weeks at least before adding the
Mandarin.
<I'd wait a longer time than that before introducing this fish. Mandarins
historically fare poorly in newly established tanks with limited microfauna for
them to forage>
I know the question I'm going to ask has been answered and you can go ahead and
refer me to another link, but I assure you no matter how much I read I am still
illiterate in the topic.
<Cut yourself a little slack! I'm sure that you know a lot more than you
think you do>
I'm going to have no room behind or on top of the 55 at all except for the AQUA
C Remora I'm getting-this also means the fuge will be under the tank.
<Sounds fine so far...>
I plan on using my 10 gallon and the 80 watts of pc. I still don't understand
how the piping goes to get the pods etc from the fuge to the main tank. Telling
me to use the return pump etc means nothing. Can you please explain to me how
this works in layman's? terms.
<Well, in many configurations, this is exactly how it works...The pods and
other planktonic life are "sucked up" (or down, if the refugium is
over the display) into the return to the tank. Really pretty simple. Sure, there
are other possible means to accomplish this, but this is the most common way. As
a simple person myself, this is how I'd explain it!>
Thanks a lot. Mike
<My pleasure. Regards, Scott F.>
Pod culture 4/13/04
Anthony, Could you recommend me a book with information regarding the
raising of all types of pods as additional food for my reef tank and where I
could purchase it at?
<such a book does not exist. No one that describes all pod cultures. For a
hobby reference, Bob and I give extensive coverage to refugiums, plankton
reactors, microcrustaceans, etc (~ 100 of 400 pages) in our "Reef
Invertebrates" book. Focus on the refugium chapter. For a scientific
reference, do consult the "Plankton Culture Manual" by Hoff from
Florida Aqua Farms>
Once I move into a house, I would like to have an enormous amount of pods in a
40 gallon tank that provides constant additional
food for my tank. I was reading on seahorse.org that they breed
there pods in simple 10 gallon tanks with water taking from a matured tank but
no water flow or filtration? Have you heard of this?
<yes... rather simple. Rotifers especially>
It seems a little easy? Thanks, Keith
<best of luck, Anthony>
What to do with a dirty filter?? (I have a few questions) (Sung to the
tune of "What Do You Do With A Drunken Sailor")
Hey there oh helpful ones!
<Ahoy Angela>
We have a 29 gal reefish tank with mainly inverts - here's the list -
Lights are 2 55w PCs
-50lbs of live rock, 4-6" DSB
-Pair of cleaner shrimp (that won't stop producing eggs). Is it
common for the male to carry eggs as well?
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/shrimpreprofaqs.htm>
Both of ours carry the eggs and release the larvae regularly.
-Tiger pistol shrimp/yellow watchman goby/firefish goby- These three all share
the pistol shrimp's burrow and seem to get along. It's funny to watch the big
firefish squeeze into the burrow. I didn't think they'd all get along
in that situation.
-50 or so zebra and blue hermits and one little red hermit...I have tons of
empty shells for them in the back of the tank so we don't have too many wars.
-Various(30+ I lost count) Astraea, Nerite, Cerith snails and 3 bumble bee
snails.
-2 flame scallops (don't buy these folks, you'll spend all your time feeding
them!!)
-3 peppermint shrimp
-Scooter blenny - he was my first fish in there and feeds well on various frozen
foods. He loves to hunt for pods as well.
-Neon Dottyback (for amusement purposes)
-Pair of true perc clowns and their anemone (An "African anemone"
can't find info on them)
-4 Feather dusters, an x-mas tree worm rock, plate coral, trumpet coral, green
sea mat, and several reddish sponges that came on the LR that have been doing
great.
We also have a rock designated for those little purple and green anemones that
split all the time that a lot of people consider nuisance (came with the LR). They'll
eventually travel I know.
<Sounds like a very healthy, full system>
OK now to my real question...I have an Emperor 400 filtering all of this and
have never had a problem with this tank (knock on wood) even though it has quite
a few animals in it. I do small (5-10%)water changes 3 times a week,
but I have never rinsed out the filters. This tank is going on 5
months old, still new. We pulled out one of the filters tonight and
there were literally hundreds of those Gammarus (sp?) shrimp and other pod like
creatures all throughout it. The filters look great so I figure
they're keeping it cleaned...and I don't want to kill them. So do we
need to change these filters eventually or will we be ok with all those
creatures working on it?
Thanks for all the help!
~Angela
<I would be very careful re changing the filter, or cleaning it... If there
is room, consider placing a filter pad (can buy material, cut to fit) on top of
the existing "old" "dirty" one... and just periodically
removing the new one to rinse, and/or replace. The old one can likely best serve
as a sort of biological filter bed. Bob Fenner>
Will pumps kill pods from the refugium?
Thanks Adam! I'll pass on the dragonet. I still want to set up a refugium at
some point though -it would be nice to have live food so I can leave the
tank to take care of feeding the fish for days at a time when I go on
trips.... << Yes refugia are wonderful. >> I just hadn't considered
under the tank refugiums. Wouldn't the
pump kill the pods first before pumping them up to the display? << No,
they go right through the pump. I'd say 90% of refugia are under
tanks with pumps pushing the water back up. >>
Narayan
<< Blundell >>
Pod culture, carbon
Hello Anthony, Bob et al !
<Hi Roger>
Thanks to all of you, your assistance is Priceless.
Read a lot of FAQ's, still haven't found a sound answer. Just
finished building an 22 gal acrylic sump. Was going to be a wet/dry but I
read
the section on bio-balls! Modified it now to a 22 gal refugium.
<Ahh, "a stitch in time, saves your mind!">
My
Nitrates have long been 0.2 but I'd still like to incorporate a 4' sand bed
and really
would like to make this a pod factory. I'll start gathering some LR rubble
from the LFS but in the interim, is there anything else I can add to
optimize
the space?
<Some macroalgae>
Would lava rock work as a good habitat for the pods?
<Not really>
In
essence, what would constitute "prime" pod habitat ????
<Mounded LR, macrophytes... there are actually MANY organisms considered "pods"
that live in diverse habitats.>
Second question. I have access to commercial grade anthracite coal
used in water purification plants. Particle size is about 1/16 to 1/8 of
an
inch long. Can I use this without harming the tank inhabitants (fish,
corals and inverts)?
<Likely yes... talk with the "folks in your lab" re this application, find out
how much "free" phosphate this product is likely to leach... get their input on
preparing it (likely at least soaking for a day ahead of use) and try just a few
ounces (in a Dacron bag) to see what sort of effects...>
I "think" I remember reading that "activated" carbon
is actually
anthracite plus some process. Could you explain the process or the
difference? What makes carbon "activated"
<Not in a short space... Again, I encourage you to ask these questions of the
"lab"... and the Net for that matter! Bob Fenner>
Thanks a ton ! RJS Redding, California
Centrifugal pumps damaging plankton? 12/29/04
Dear WWM crew, First off I would like to say that I have literally spent
hours perusing your forums, enough that my wife groans when she sees me on the
computer
<glad to hear the former, not the latter... do take care of family first and
foremost :)>
Thank you for offering a great service. I have heard from a few different places
in passing (mostly magazines, and in a couple of places on the WWM pages) that
our common centrifugal pumps are limiting our ability to maintain significant
zoo and phyto plankton populations in our aquariums,
<actually, this is archaic information/belief based on some silly research with
brine shrimp that was extrapolated to be applied to marine plankton. In truth,
marine plankton act nothing like (salt lake) brine shrimp and suffer very little
plankton shear. The point is also ultimately moot as the plankton come out just
as edible on the other side :) If you were hungry, would you refuse a hamburger
because you wanted a steak instead? <G>>
and thinking about it makes sense that the plankton could be damaged by
colliding with the volute of the pump.
<you'd be amazed what commonly passes through... I have seen small fish make it
numerous times>
Since I cannot seem to find anything more than speculation on this subject I was
wondering what y'alls opinion is.
<it is only speculation and bunk at that. No worries on plankton shear>
Do you think there is any benefit in trying a reciprocating or perhaps rotary
pump? I am thinking that the non-uniform output of the reciprocating pump could
have its advantages (more turbulent flow etc.) but more complicated design would
lead to more maintenance. I would love to hear the WWM opinion on this subject.
Thanks very much for your input Chad Miltenberger
<hamburger 'til it hurts, mate. Anthony>
30 gal. system check
James,
Thanks for your input regarding my tank's water flow and filtration issues.
Should I be concerned about the apparent loss of copepods and/or Mysis shrimp LR hitchhikers running amuck on the LS? One other thing I forgot to mention
is that Joe's Juice was used on a couple of occasions to get rid of some larger Aiptasia specimens.
<I wouldn't be concerned about it. I think if you want to maintain large populations of the pods you would need a refugium. James (Salty Dog)>
Propagatin' 'Pods!
First, let me say I think it's great that you guys take your time to answer
and post these questions. I've learned a lot by reading through the FAQs.
<Glad that you've found it helpful! We really enjoy bringing WWM to you every
day! Scott F. here tonight!>
I could use some guidance with a specific sand cleaner question.
Here's a quick overview of the latest project:
It's a small display (24g NanoCube) that flows to a lighted 16"x16"x7" mud
'fuge. That in turn flows to an unlighted 16"x18" DSB 'fuge with 5" of sand and
5" of water. In addition to nutrient export, I'm hoping to generate plankton of
varying sizes, as well as small crustaceans ('pods.. etc.). Unfortunately, there
are corners that don't receive optimal water flow, and
I'm trying to keep from turn the whole contraption from turning into one large
unstable nutrient sink. To that end I believe the key is to keep detritus from
accumulating. The space is pretty tight and manual stirring / vacuuming would
be hard.
The questions:
What is the best live stock for eating detritus without damaging (too much) the
population of 'pods, algae, and other beneficials?
<I'd utilize the so-called "Tiger Tail" Sea Cucumbers, which do an excellent job
at this, as well as some serpent stars. These creatures are efficient at
consuming detritus without excessive collateral damage to other, more desirable
life forms>
Also, what creature would be good for stirring the DSB without harm to the
beneficial critters?
<As above>
Finally, is there a medium I can put in the DSB 'fuge that will facilitate 'pod
growth? ..it's just open water now.
<Well, depending upon what types of 'pods you're trying to grow, you could use a
mixed course/fine substrate, some macroalgae, such as my favorite-Chaetomorpha,
and the protection of the sump. Inoculate the 'fuge with a starter culture, sit
back and you'll see an explosion of life after a few months! There is a lot of
good information about amphipods and copepods (see the article in the latest
issue of "Conscientious Aquarist" by Adelaide Rhodes, right here on WWM) on the
net...Just do a little searching and you'll find more than you could imagine!>
Thanks very much,
Jon
<My pleasure, John! Regards, Scott F.>
Copepods
I have a 29 gallon tank with a sump, 110 watts power compact lighting, 3 inches of crushed coral, and 20lbs live rock. It has been running for
about a year. There were fish in it at one time but now they're in the 55 gallon tank. I want to turn it into a copepod farm so I will have food
to feed my mandarin that is in the 55 gallon tank. I just purchased some live copepods from an online fish store and want to know what I need to
do to get it started. Do I need to get anything else for the tank or can I just pour them in?
<Shawn, here is a link on pods. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i1/Pods/pods.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
A Look Into the Culture of Pods and Their Kin 11/21/05
Greetings Bob n crew!
<Sam>
Bob…I’m really looking forward to meeting you at the February Puget Sound Aquarium Society meeting. Will be nice to be able to say thanks
in person for envisioning all that WWM has become (or at least starting something that has become truly incredible :*) )
<Ah! You add to my anticipation!>
Quick hardware recap…125 gallon tank, 20 gallon refugium, 29 gallon sump, Aqua-C skimmer, 180# live rock over ½-inch deep fine aragonite
sand bed. Refugium packed with rock, and will be adding Chaeto in the coming month or so. I’m currently fishless, and planning on remaining
so for at least 6 months to allow critters to proliferate.
<Wow, good discipline>
No corals yet either, and will likely remain that way for at least another month
or two. There are currently about a dozen hermits and two dozen snails (total, of 6 varieties, one of which has already produced baby snails…I
take this as a sign of moderately acceptable husbandry) munching on the progressing algal succession. I’m doing 10-15% water changes every 7-10
days with aged, aerated, buffered DI turned saltwater (Instant Ocean). The goal with this tank, aside from corals (probably LPS) and a couple
of other small nothing-less-peaceful-than-clownfish fishes, is to house a Mandarin, and for the system to be as self-sustaining as can be
reasonably expected.
Getting to the question, I’m curious as to whether investing in a ‘pod culture at this point would be a prudent move. As I
see it, the benefits would include adding to the number, and possibly diversity of the pods in the tank, and adding at this point would allow
the new additions several months to continue to proliferate. I’m thinking the possible ramifications could include;
1) introducing a species capable of out competing those that hitched in
2) that there is a finite number of pods that the tank can sustain, and that what I’m
already doing may allow me to get somewhere in the neighborhood of that number or, adding to the population may exceed that number and cause a
pod-stock die-off
3) that the current population would, in the outlined time frame, be able to grow to the point of being able to sustain a
Mandarin on its own, thus making the addition unnecessary.
<I would stick with what you have... should be fine for all the reasons stated>
I’m guessing I could always wait until after the Mandarin is added, and if the population dropped too severely, could add at that point.
<Yes>
I’m looking at a gift certificate for Ocean Pods. What say you?
<I would save it>
Thanks in advance,
Sam
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Culturing Pods for Mandarin Dragonet 7/28/06
Hi there,
I've a question regarding Mandarin Dragonets and the feeding of this finicky
fish. I would like to add one to my 46 gallon bowfront tank. It is a very
mature tank. I've currently got about 75 lbs of live rock in the tank and
about 3 inches of live sand.
Right now the tank is loaded with copepods and mysis shrimp. I see them
scurrying around constantly. I do have a small 6
line wrasse in the thank that will soon be moved to my 29 gallon reef tank.
I'll also be adding a 29 gallon tank as a refugium to the bowfront.
<Ahh, very good>
In the refugium, I'll have livesand, rubble rock and Chaeto.
I'd also like to set up a 10 gallon tank to culture pods in. I've got 2
different plans for doing this. I'd like your advice on both please.
#1 is to line the tank with quart mason jars that each contain some livesand, a
little rubble rock and some Chaeto. The water level will be kept a few inches
above the top of each jar. I'll then seed the entire tank with copepods and
mysis shrimp. I'll also have a small powerhead going in the tank.
<Mmm, an air-powered sponge filter would be better/best... the splice and dice
action of the powerhead will reduce the small crustacean population>
My thoughts are that as the pods and shrimp grow and reproduce, I can remove a
jar and pour the water off into the refugium or main tank. I'd then return the
jar to the 10 gallon to repopulate.
<Mmm, we'll see... likely the jars will be too much trouble, and unnecessary>
I've heard that I may have a problem with evaporation and a rise in salinity
using this method. I'm not sure how
that would happen faster with the jars than without.
#2 is to just use the 10 gallon with live sand, rubble rock and Chaeto but
without the jars.
<This would be my option...>
I'm just not sure how I'd go about removing the pods to feed to the fuge or
main tank though.
<"Tie" the ten in with the 29 refugium somehow...>
One thing that's been suggested to me is to take 4 to 6 sponges, get them wet
with the tank water, crush some flake
food into them and place them in the tank. Then as they populate with pods,
remove a sponge and put it in the fuge or main tank for a few days and then
replace into the culturing tank for repopulation. With 4 to 6 sponges, I'd
think that I could rotate them and keep a good supply of pods.
<Worth trying>
Do either of these plans sound reasonable?
<This second much more than the first>
Also, in plan 2, can you suggest any other means of removing pods from the
culture tank for feeding?
<Vacuuming, mass water changes...>
My last few questions concern the refugium. My bow tank is not drilled so I'll
have to come up with some way to move water from the display tank to the
refugium and then back to the display tank. Any suggestions?
<Posted:
http://wetwebmedia.com/overfloboxfaqs.htm
and the linked files above>
Do I need to
section the refugium off into different compartments or can I just add lots of
Chaeto and let it grow?
<Can/could>
I'll also have lighting on this tank.
<... good idea:
http://wetwebmedia.com/refugltgfaqs.htm>
I would also like to put my skimmer into the refugium but am I better off
leaving it on the display tank?
<Mmm... not necessarily... though would situate in an anterior/first water
arrangement
I have a Remora Skimmer with an overflow/pre-filter box.
Any advice you're able to give would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks.
Michael
<Bob Fenner>
Amiracle mud filter, using WWM 7/27/05
Hi I'm new to the site and so far it pretty informative well here's my
questions. To grow various types of pods and food for my mandarins and
fish what would be the best substrate type size and depth.
--Sbatiste
<Please keep reading... learn to use the Google search tool, the indices on WWM.
Much/a great deal of "collateral" benefit/s... Bob Fenner>
Amphipods, Copepods, Mysis, Oh my! 7/28/05
Hi
<Good evening. Mike G with you tonight.>
I did some research on your site about pods but didn't really pick up the answer
I was looking for. Well here's my question what kind of pods would grow in
Ecosystems miracle mud with some Caulerpa
<<Caulerpa>>
(think it's misspelled) algae?
<Well, to be quick, Amphipods and Copepods. If you want to get more in-depth,
any of several hundred species of extremely similar "pods" may happen to
populate a refugium seeded with the brand mud specified. Here are a few
articles/FAQs related to "pods," hopefully they will assist you in getting an
idea of what will soon inhabit your tank.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i1/Pods/pods.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pods.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/isopoda.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/copepodfaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pericaridanfaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/amphipodfaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mysidfaqs.htm >
Thanks in advance
<You're welcome. Good luck with your new tank! Mike G>
Amiracle Mud Filters Substrate 7/28/05, same idiot question/response
Hi Guys. I had a few question Ive
<There is no such word>
been browsing this site for a while and could not find a specific answer to my
questions, Well here they are
1) Would you suggest using Miracle mud to grow copepods and other foods for my
aquarium?
<Mmm, sure>
2) or would a different type of substrate be better if so what grain size and how
much?
Thanks
<... please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i1/Pods/pods.htm
and the linked files... at the bottom. Bob Fenner>
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