Treating Dogface Puffers with "Ich"  1/4/07
Hi,
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I have 2 dogface puffers and they recently got ich. I added a Koran angel and I think that it has stressed them out.
<Did you QT the angel before adding to the puffer tank?  That's where the "ich" came from.>
I was wondering if a 20 gallon quarantine tank would be big enough for them?  I have an extra heater and Emperor 400 filter that I was planning on using. Thanks for all your help.
<It depends on how large your fish are.  
Please read: http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4576
Also, please be sure you use proper capitalization & punctuation.  We have to correct this, before posting on our FAQs.  Thanks, PP>

Puffer With Nematode Worm  10/29/06
<Hi Beth, Pufferpunk here>
First I want to say your site is full of wonderful info.  
<Thanks!>
I have a tank of 5 puffers.  
<Really?  That's a lot of puffers in one tank.  What kind of puffers are they?>
The water tested fine.  
<Find doesn't help me much.  Posting numbers in a query is best.>
One has a moving bump.  It started on one side of his head moved to his back and down towards his tail and now it  is back to the side of its  head again.  I am thinking this could be a plot for a horror movie.  This puffer appears to be doing well otherwise.  He eats and is active. He does spends more time resting on the bottom of the tank than the others but. Any thoughts you may have would be appreciated!
<Sounds like a nematode worm.  Not much you can do.  If you try to kill the worm, then it rots in your puffer.  Some have done surgery.  It would depend on how large your puffer is, whether it would survive that.  A puffer can live quite some time with this worm under it's skin.  You may want to quarantine the puffer, since it's not really known if the worm could infect the others.  ~PP>
Beth

-Puffers with Air?-  9/3/06
Hi Bob,
<Justin with you this evening.>
About a week ago the day after Tropical Storm Ernesto came through our city (Pompano Beach, FL) my boyfriend went to the beach to check out the waves. In the surf he found two very small and young puffer fish struggling in the water (of barely 1" high of water). He brought them home and put them in our 150 gal salt water tank.
<Not always the best idea due to the diseases they might carry, but hard to resist trying to help.>
The first couple of  nights we didn't think they were going to make it. They barely moved. They seem to be perfectly fine now - except for one very strange thing. During the day they stay at the bottom of the tank and barely swim. Kind of just swim here and there but prefer to perch themselves by the shells or corners of the tank. At night though they start to swim. I went out to look at the tank two nights ago and found one of them kind of floating up in a spiraling motion as if the current in the water was just making him float up. I thought he was dead and was just going to wait for him to float to the top so i could take him out. Well, as soon as he hit the top of the water he kind of jerked his body and started doing the same weird spiraling floating swim going down though.
<Sounds like an air pocket is in its stomach, and or whirling disease.  Id lean toward the air pocket in the stomach first,  which they should be able to clear, but if they are struggling to swim, you can gently cup then head up, and they should puff and release air.  If they continue to swim erratically, and or air does not escape doing that, it is best to simply return them to the sea.  They might have been severely traumatized in the waves from Ernesto and being pounded around, but they also might be suffering from what I call salinity shock, which is being taken from the ocean at an unknown salinity level, and put into your tank without being acclimated enough, and their bodies cannot handle it.  You cannot do much at this point to help that other than to leave them alone and see if they recover.>
He kept doing this for about 10 minutes. Then he kind of just ended up at the bottom swam over to the shell he likes to hang by and just laid there??? What was that? Well, last night i went to go check and see if he would do it again and he wasn't doing it but the other small puffer he got at the beach that day was doing the very same thing. We've had other puffers in the past in this tank and never ever have seen any fish do anything this strange. Our water is perfect though, we had it tested. And other than that strange trance like swimming that they do they seem fine. Can you please tell us what this could possibly be? I could probably video tape it on my phone and email it to you if you are interested in seeing this.
Hope to hear back from you soon!
Thanks,
Carolina
<Hope they pull through, but I would watch them closely and probably bring them back to the ocean.  Good luck and hope they pull through for you.  Try pufferresources.net and thepufferlist.com for identifying info on the puffer for further help.>
<Justin>

Sick Dog Face Puffer   8/29/06
Hi, my name is Beth, my husband and I have a dog face puffer, and  I think he's really sick; but I don't know what the problem is.
<Hi Beth, you have Justin with you tonight, one of the resident puffer people.>
None of the two local fish stores that we go to can tell us whats wrong they just suggest to do water changes.  We have.  We have had  Pudge for about eight months with nothing else but a crab. Please Help Me!!!  I am really sorry if you have already answered a question like this, but I've done tons of research on your website and can't find any answers.  About ten days ago Pudge stopped eating and swimming on the third day I noticed he was breathing very heavy his left gill was opening very wide and when he did swim not aggressively at all he would bmp into the live rock and the glass as if he didn't even see it.
<Signs of poor water quality generally>
We did a water change and added bio-Spira that night at about 10:00 he was laying on his side and getting all these brown spots on him I thought he was dying.  With no suggestion from the fish store as a last resort  I told my husband to put the medication Rally in his tank, within 20 min. the spots were gone , the next day his breathing improved, the following day he was swimming around again still with no signs of hunger.
<Brown spots?  can you get a photo?  do you mean that the puffer was turning blotchy, or that he was actually covered in small black/brown dots?>  The day before yesterday I noticed what seems to be mucus coming out of his mouth and his one left gill. Still not eating.  Yesterday I tried force feeding him but he wouldn't take it.  Today he just seems to be in the same position he was ten days ago.  This morning I put some more medication in but it doesn't seem to be working he is breathing heavy again with no energy at all. He is very dark brown but when I go over to the tank it seems that he is trying to turn that grayish white color he normally is but cant and he gets these white spots all over him almost like a leopard.  I don't know what to do I feel helpless. I hope you can help me.  
  Thank you so much for your time.
          Beth
<Beth, without knowing key things about your setup such as tank size, size of the puffer, water parameters (Take your water to be tested or if you have a test kit, use it  and reply back), and what type of blotches you are seeing, it is hard to tell you anything you can do.  your LFS is right that water changes (50%) will be very helpful, but Im concerned with the adding medicine and spots disappearing, that sounds like black spot disease or black ich, which is a parasite.  If it is black ich, (small black spots all over the body/gills) fresh water dipping and gravel vacuuming your entire tank will help remove most of them, however please read on WWM about black spot disease to get a better feel for if that is what is actually happening.  At this point do the water changes, and try adding garlic juice to the puffers food to entice it to eat.  Answer the questions above and reply back and we can go from there.>
<Justin>

Re: Sick Dog Face Puffer. Justin was right, bunk env.   8/29/06
The puffer is about 5-6 inches..   he is in a 30 gallon tank
<Too small... unstable>
and I have a 70 gallon aqua clear filter running.   I also have a powerhead.  the nitrates are really high
<Also...>
when the water was tested.   I did a water change but the nitrates are still very high.  He is breathing very heavy and has white blotches all over him not salt looking though.
<"Fix the environment, cure the fish". Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/trupufsysfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Sick Dog Face Puffer   8/30/06
Hi Justin,
<Beth>
I believe my husband just e-mailed you back regarding tank size ect.  I'm not to knowledgeable about fish my husband is more the fish type than I am, but I do love my little pudge.  I have tried soaking his food in garlic and still nothing.  The spots I'm seeing literally look like he's trying to change to that grayish white color, but instead of fully changing color he gets these white spots.  How  else can I make him eat I'm really concerned that he has gone this long w/o food.  I know that's not the key problem but I feel if I can get food in him it will build his strength and immune system. I feel like I need to do something immediately but  I don't know what.  I really hope you can help me Justin.  Thank you so much!!
<I have not seen any email from him yet, until I do there isn't much more I can tell you. Please see if he can resend it or if another crew member tackled his email>
<Justin>

Adult dog faced puffer - 8/10/2006
I have had a dog faced puffer for about 5 years.  He's always been healthy and very active.  Kept in a 120 gallon tank with no other fish.  Purification system was fed RO Water and had an ETSS protein skimmer, a Eheim canister filter.  Tank has about 50-70 pounds of live rock.
In mid-may we had a flood which caused us to move the tank.  We moved the puffer, much of his rock, the filters onto a 72 gallon tank for about two weeks while we rebuilt the area around the 120.
Once done, we put him in a new 120 with a new skimmer.  His old filters and added a Fluval 404 (mainly for easier carbon changes) that I had laying around.
He seemed fine for a month.  At this point we did some dental work on his too-large beak (few drops of clove oil, quick Dremel tool work).  It went remarkably well and he demonstrated a larger appetite after this and showed no signs of trauma.
<Oft times takes a while to show... weeks>
Fast forward two uneventful weeks... Over the last two or three days he suddenly became a bit lethargic and the last two days has had a bit of a film over his eyes and body.  He now passively rests on the bottom of the tank.  My LFS is a very good fish/reef only store, but they are small and closed for a week long trip,
<Wow! Impressive!>
leaving me with no local support.  I'm extremely concerned and not sure what to do.  I've never had a fish with ich or any other infection before, though I've kept fish or reefs for about 15 years.  Nitrates showed high, with Ammonia, Nitrite, salinity all being within norms.
<Mmm... very likely nothing to be overly concerned about here>
Cash isn't really an issue, but I'm not sure what my options are.  At the moment we're purchasing some store-made water from another LFS on the shot that the elevated nitrates may be coming from our new RO system which has no de-ionizer (the old one did).  About to do a 15% water change to see if it has any effect at all.
Any help would be tremendously appreciated.
-Jason
<I would do "nothing"... Almost assuredly this puffer will recover, return to its cheery former self. Please read here in the mean while: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/puffcareinfo.htm
and the many puffer, Tetraodont linked files above. It is my hope that by perusing the concerns, efforts of others you will be more encouraged, understanding of the situation. Bob Fenner>

Puffer vomit... Little useful info.   8/3/06
Could you please tell me some possible reasons why my puffer threw up 3 chunks within a 10 min. period?
<Something not right... chemically, environmentally, psychologically... many possibilities within these broad categories>
  The first 2 times it looked like  frozen cubed food ( I had not fed him this day!).
<What species, size... how long have you had...?>
The last one looked like soft tissue, clear & white.  He also hunched his back the last time and  looked like he was going to puff, then after his little fit he swam away &  he otherwise looks great.  this can't be normal-I've had PuffPuffPass 14  months and I've never seen this.    thanks for your time--you  guys/gals rock !!!
<... More info. please... FW? SW? Water quality, set-up, history, tank-mates... Bob Fenner>

Porcupine puffer and burping   7/11/06
Please, Please, Please help!  I have been searching on your site on how to burp a puffer.  Mine has an air pocket in the left back area.  When I put on my marine gloves and grab him to try to burp him he immediately puffs up.  Impossible for me to burp him when he is a huge spiney ball, there is no give.  Any suggestions....please, I am very concerned.  Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
<<Please don’t stress too much!  Here you go: http://www.thepufferforum.com/articles/puffer/airpuff.html.  Hope that helps. Lisa.>>
  Sincerely
       Naomi Patton

Pirate Fish... SW puffer, Tang with bad eye   7/6/06
Hi,
<Howdy>
I have a puffer that hurt one of his eyes a few weeks ago.
<One? Not bilateral... likely consequent from a physical trauma... but...>
The eye was cloudy and puffy for a while, but has since grown back to normal size.  The hurt eye appears mostly normal except that it is black and doesn't have the
blue sparkle that puffers usually have.  Is this eye blind?
<Possibly>
Will the blue ever return?
<Mmm, doubtful, though a small possibility>
Also, I have a powder blue tang in the same tank. I noticed today that one of his eyes looks damaged.   It looks like it has been scratched.  Is there
anything I can do to help him heal, other than ensuring low stress and good water quality?
<Mmm, not really much more than this latter>
Finally, any idea as to what could be hurting my fish's eyes?  The tank stocking list is:  Black Volitans Lion 6", Humu 4", Foxface 5", Porcupine
Puffer 4",  Powder Blue Tang 5", Klunzinger's Wrasse 6", and  a 5" Sailfin Tang.  
<A "rough and tumble" mix for sure...>
The most recent fish was the Powder blue, added about 5 months ago.
All of the fish get along fine, at least when I'm around.  Never any nipping at each other.  The tank is 210 gallons, and has a good mix of swimming room
and hiding spaces.  I have about 100 pounds of Fiji and Tonga ridge rock (The rest it in the fuge), and 2 large artificial corals.
Should I rearrange the tank to prevent injuries?  Or do these things just happen from time to time?  Should I buy eye patches and peg legs for the fish?
<Heeeee! All joking aside (but not too far), this volume of water, amount of rock should be fine... It reads like these were just two unfortunate "run ins" here. I would supplement these animals foods with vitamin adjuncts, keep metabolites low, and hope for recoveries. Bob Fenner>

Was Pirate Fish, now sand stirrers!   7/7/06
Thanks for the info.  I have another quick question regarding this tank.
What can I put in to stir up the sand a bit?  Are there any inverts that could last with this crew?
<Not likely>
   Or is there a good fish that will help?
<Mmm, got's to get you in training for using the search tool, indices... My fave choice would be a good-sized mullid... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/Goatfshart.htm
and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsiftfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>

Overstocked FOWLR System, continued Part 3
Hi Leslie, <Hi there>
Ok , now I have my puffer eating.
<Wow that was quick! Great news!>
A new problem has visited my poor guy now. Saturday morning I turned on the light and saw a white spot on the top of his body by his head. NOT ICH! It is more like someone stamped him with white paint. Say you take the end of a Bic pen , dab it in white paint then stamp it on the fish. (good visual going?)  It didn't change in size or shape etc. for a couple days and today, T or bacterial diseaseuesday, he has a couple more of these white spots. They are very flat somewhat like the way coralline algae looks when it grows on the aquarium glass. He acts fine, eating , swimming. I have made up my own theory because no one seems to have heard of such a thing. I think he went so long on a no eating strike that he has a deficiency of some sort, possibly iodine . No one else in the tank has them,  just him. Please let me know what this could be. Someone must have encountered this besides me!!!!
<Remote diagnosis of disease is difficult. Some possibilities include: Lymphocystis, which is a viral disease but this usually shows up at the base of fins. It often responds to good nutrition and good water quality; loss of slime coat due to injury, perhaps against a power head intake; or a bacterial infection. Please take a look at the following article and FAQs for more info Infectious Diseases of Marine Livestock here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/infectio.htm >
Thanks in advance "Polkadot Puffer“
<Hope this helps, Leslie>

Puffer with air bubble, more info please - 5/25/2006
I have a puffer that has had an air bubble on the top back portion of its body. This problem is in its third week. I have no idea what to do any help would be appreciated.
<<Not enough information provided.  Please list species, SG, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, tank size, tank mates, water change size and frequency, feeding schedule, anything new added, and if possible, a picture.  Is it on the surface, or deep inside the body? With more info I’ll be glad to help. Lisa.>>

Spiny Box Puffer with Ich - 5/17/2006
What is the best way to treat a Spiny Box Puffer that has ich?  It is currently in a quarantine tank.
<<Read here: http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9. >>
Thanks!
<<Glad to help. Lisa.>>

Diodon nicthemerus with an air bubble - 5/8/2006
Hi guys, good morning from the U.K.
<<Good morning from Canada!>>
After doing some searching, I still seem to have a couple of things that need my attention A.S.A.P.
On Saturday I purchased a young puffer, about 4" long from a local LFS.  Before I could stop the genius bagging the fish for me, he lifted it out of the water in the net, 5 seconds to get the top of the bag open, and then dropped it in. It was obviously stressed and puffed up; on going into the bag it expelled a large amount of air.
<<That’s no good.>>
After introducing the poor creature to my tank, I noticed an air bubble, about 1/4" diameter, at the joint of his body and tail fin. I posted in the forum to try and find out whether there was anything I could do, or whether just to watch and wait, but received no replies. Don't shoot me, but my first thought was to puncture the bubble to release the air if it was causing distress.
<<Bad idea!  Please read here on expelling the air bubble: http://www.thepufferforum.com/articles/puffer/airpuff.html. >>
When introduced, the fish was almost looking as if it was bleached it was so pale, but has since regained some color. At this time, it is staying in the corner during lighting times, and cruising after lights out, I have tried to feed with shrimp etc, but he seems to have no interest. Flake seemed to inspire him a little, but I realize this is not going to do anything to improve him, I'm guessing that that was all he was fed in the store.
<<Likely.  Read here on feeding: http://www.thepufferforum.com/articles/puffer/food.html.>>
Your thoughts would be hugely appreciated, the feeding is not bothering me to much at the moment, he is just settling in, so that I will just keep an eye on, my main worry is the air bubble.
<<Read linked articles.  If this is indeed a Diodon nicthemerus you have, be aware that they grow to 24 inches in length, and will require a system in the hundreds of gallons.>>
Thank you all in advance, Mike
<<Glad to help. Lisa.>>

Crypt...urgent _ seriously  - 4/24/2006
Good Morning
<Still>
I have been reading ich and puffer FAQs for the last 7 hours. I think I have the groundwork covered.  I had a small outbreak about a year  
or so ago and came out with no losses. That was party a result of very diligent dips etc but a lot of luck too: You've heard this story a thousand times but yeah,
<Likely more>
I used CopperSafe on the advice of LFS guy and my 2 puffers and 1 trigger made it. And that was in my display  
tank - even all of the hermits survived. The live rock is back now. but that took forever.
I'll chalk that up to luck. These fish have been there before and after looking at some risk management, they (some our fish are going  
on three years old) have decided copper is an unacceptable risk. I would love a response this morning. Here are the details -
• 180g + 50g sump.
• A few damsels
• Small Heniochus pair
•  S&S Puffer 9" (This is his tank of course)
•  Tiny dogface puffer
•  Small flame angel
•  4" humahuma
• 2 small yellow tangs
•  mediumish snowflake moray
•  lots of crabs and liverock
My wife spotted an ich outbreak this morning, so at least we have the head start. I'm pretty shocked at how quickly it manifested though;  
<Mmm, has been there all this time... just some trigger... not the fish.>
this wasn't here on Friday evening. This is the early stage, everyone is behaving normally but I know I need to move quick.
Both puffers have light spotting on fins - same for both Henis. Damsels are all clear. The angel and the trigger already have body spots.
I bought a good hospital setup after I found out today. 55 gal generic with decent hardware.
<... not so sure all these fishes will go/get along here>
I have a good understanding of hyposalinity and temp etc.
We are pretty good dippers too. I really just want to know what   product to pick up..?
<?>
I'm thinking no copper,  no malachite green, methylene blue is a maybe but Formalin at 37% is a good idea.
Yes?
No?
<... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/formalinart.htm
and the linked files above...>
I need to start this now, advice would be appreciated beyond words.  
I'm scared for there guys.
<More knowledge will lessen to almost completely diminish your fear>
Cheers,
Christopher
<Bob Fenner>

Re: urgent _ seriously ... Crypt - 04/24/2006
Thank you for your quick reply but  I'm confused
I have re-read the formalin page; is this a cautious endorsement?
<Perhaps>
I guess to distill my question to it's essence: I would like to know specifically which product would be best to start treatment now;  
methylene, formail or something else?
Thanks in advance,
c.
Christopher Roberts
<My friend... this is posted over and over on our site... with cautionary remarks as you suggest here. I would not use formalin/formaldehyde... or formail... I would use a minimum concentration (due to the puffers mainly) of a chelated copper commercial product here... with twice daily testing with a matched test kit... Read on first! Bob Fenner>

Re: urgent _ seriously... Crypt  - 04/24/2006
Thank you Bob
<Welcome>
I appreciate your directness. Do realize that many many wetweb crew  
posts here absolutely forbid the use of copper with puffers (in ALL  
CAPS)- period.
<Yes... am fully aware of some others opinions here (have placed almost all materials on WWM... over the last decade)... My opinion, experience varies you might say>
But yes, I was aware that you are a proponent of it.
<Oh! Good>
I am out the door to pick up a good copper test kit in a moment.
Please advise a suggested dosage.
  1 ppm, monitored 2x daily over a 2 week period?
<... no... posted on WWM for all's review though>
Many Thanks.
*Hopefully I won't write you again until I just drop a brief Thank  You that all my guys are flourishing.
Cheers,
c.
<Write away. Just do please search and read first. Bob Fenner>

Blind Black Puffer
Dear Wet web media
I have a black puffer that recently had ick. His eyes were very very cloudy. I cured his ick but when his eyes healed they didn't have pupils.
Is he going to be blind forever? Can fish be blinded by cloudy eyes?
<Likely yes and yes. Bob Fenner>

SW Puffer Systems/ Possible Disease - 3/24/2006
Hi Crew
Thank you in advance for any advice you can offer.
<<I will try.>>
I have kept a large dog faced puffer (now 11 inches long) in a 100 gallon (UK) tank for five years, after spending hours and hours reading your site I decided to introduce live rock about a week ago.  The water parameters are:
Nh3  0 ppm
No2  0.1 ppm
<<Should always be Zero.>>
No3  30-40ppm  10% water changes per week required!
<<Puffers are very sensitive to such things.  I do 50% weekly changes on my puffer tanks.>>
Ph     8.3-8.4
alk 12dkh
ca  370
phosphate 0.1
silicate    0
temp 78 - 80
s.g 1.022
The tank has a bare bottom, now with live rock, huge circulation (60X per hour) and an AquaC Remora pro skimmer imported from America - on your site’s recommendation.  I am very pleased with it
<<As am I, with mine :).>>
Also 2 large Eheim 2028 externals.  I supplemented the calcium when I introduced the live rock with Tropic Marin Bio Calcium, because the reading was 310 and I would like to give the rock a chance to grow corallines.
<<Ok.  Be sure not to push it too high.>>
I noticed 2 days after introducing the rock and dosing the calcium, that he has large white markings in his fins, they are not like spots more like splodges (hope that is a relevant term!!)
<<I’m not sure it is a term at all! :)>> and they don't seem to protrude from his fins more like they are in the fins themselves, the marks are about 2mm in length and he has 5 of them in total.
He had a case of ich about 4 years ago when I introduced a Tang, I feel that this does not look like the same thing as they are much bigger and don’t look as if they protrude, also in the past he has had one of these marks on his fins which came to nothing.  To confuse matters more, he has also lost a little of the colour in his tail fin, he has however, recently taken to resting his tail on the Tunze stream pump, because this has now become the new area where he rests after I introduced the rock.  This has left me thinking is this a parasite from the live rock (well cured),  or could it be explained away with his tail on the pump- and dosing of the calcium somehow affecting his fins.
<<I think you may have had some die-off in the rock, hence the nitrite reading.  I wouldn’t blame the pump, or the calcium for his marks.  This could be little more than a small display of stress.>>
I am resisting the urge to panic (although it is building!! ) because his behavior is normal, no scratching or labored breathing, and as I have mentioned I feel sure he has had a similar mark before.
Any ideas you have would be appreciated.
<<Increase the volume of your water changes, and keep an eye out for changing behaviour.>>
Thank you for your advice past and present.
Dave Squire (England)
<<Glad to help.  Lisa.>>

Air bubble in Puffer - 3/6/2006
WWM,
<<Rip>>
My puffer looks as if he as swallowed air. He has been in the tank for months, feeding well and has not been removed.  I have not seen him inflated.  He has trouble swimming. What appears to be a large air bubble in the rear abdomen area is protruding, and he is swimming with a head down, tilted on his side.  What can I do?
Thank You
Rip
<<Read at ThePufferForum, here: http://www.thepufferforum.com/articles/puffer/airpuff.html.  While you’re there, search to find out how to best care for your puffer.  What species are you keeping? Lisa.>>

Puffer Tooth Loss 2/28/2006
I have a blue spotted puffer with a tooth problem.  We have had “puffet" for about 1 1/2 yrs.  Great eater, one of the best fish we have ever had.  Our problem is that she has lost one of her teeth.
<<Aww>>
The local fish stores that carry these fish have never heard of this.  They have heard of the teeth chipping away but never falling out.  Before the tooth fell out she had not been eating very much and really not very social.  Now that the tooth fell out she is almost 100% again, the eating is not what it use to be but at least she is eating.  What do you make of this?  We would love to know if anyone else has had this happen!
<<I have seen this happen a few times.  So long as feeding is not affected, housing and water quality is up to par, and it is not a result of physical trauma, I would not worry too much.  Keep an eye on her to ensure no infection sets in, and that she is eating.  Also pay close attention to her other teeth, as they may over grow with this tooth missing.  Good luck. Lisa.>>

Puffer with wound that has bugs crawling on it  - 2/21/2006
Hello, I have a dog face puff that got hurt by a powerhead last week, I have been treating him with MelaFix and PimaFix
<Worthless>
and seems to be healing. I have 2 questions first there are these tiny white bugs on my glass and sand and I have noticed them on the wound area on my puffer, are they
hurting my fish or will they just eat off the dead skin that is falling off.
<Likely not helpful>
2. I haven't seen my puff eat but a little bite of shrimp the other day, but he continues to poop it is white and falls apart as soon as it
leaves his body. If I'm not seeing him eat how is he still having anything to poop out. I just don't know if he might have a digestive  or secondary
infection. This is my first puffer and not sure if this is normal. I do have a sand bed in the tank but it isn't sand that he is getting rid of.
Thanks for you time.
<Please take a read, re-read over the Puffer materials archived on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Porcupine Puffer Trouble - 2/20/2006
Greetings.
<<Hi Dan.>>
I have a 6-year-old porcupine puffer who is about 10 inches head-to-tail and lives in a 55 gallon tank.
<<That’s too bad.  At 6-years-old your puffer should be 18”, and in a 125 gallon tank.>> As of the last few months, his desire and ability to eat has diminished greatly.  Over the years, I've fed him a steady diet of frozen krill and frozen silversides, with an occasional helping of romaine lettuce, which he used to love.
<<Good as a treat perhaps, but poor nutritionally.>>
He no longer touches frozen krill, and only on "good" days will swallow a piece frozen silverside.  Mostly, he now eats floating dried krill, but still with difficulty. Part of the problem, I think, is that he can't close his jaw. It's always open. When he sucks in a piece, he'll usually spit it back out and try again until he finally holds it down.  Based on what I've read on your site so far, it sounds like he either has nutritionally induced lockjaw or overgrown teeth, but I can't really tell.
<<Can you see his teeth/beak all the time? I find your pics hard to make out.  Is he getting food down?  You should try mussels, Clams, cockles, crabs legs.  If he is eating at all, you have a chance to reverse any damage a poor diet may have caused. Soak the foods in garlic to stimulate his appetite, and a good supplement like Selcon, Vita-chem, or both.  What’s your water quality like? Number readings would be very helpful here.>>
Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated!
<<As above.  Most of all your puffer needs a bigger tank.  Please get back to me! Lisa.>>
Regards,
Dan

Puffers and copper  2/6/06
It says on your site not to ever treat puffers with copper.
<Some folks say...>
  I had my  tank at better than 1.5ppm (CopperSafe) for 3 months and my map and dogface are  no worse for the wear as far as I can tell.  I just bought a starry puffer  who
was doing great the first day but now seems a little lethargic and not eager to eat.  My copper level is at 1.0 (less than a true therapeutic dose) but  I'm
concerned that it may be effecting his health.
<... sub-therapeutic doses do more harm than good>
I'm going to get all  the copper out of my tank once I get a golden puffer but I don't want to invite another ich infection before that.  Your input would be appreciated.   Greg
<Quarantine, don't crowd... Bob Fenner>

Re: puffers and copper... poor water quality  2/6/06
Also, My starry puffer's skin is pealing off.  I have a 400  gallon tank with:
PH-8.3
nitrite 0
ammonia 0
nitrate -80 (I can't seem to keep this under control)
Thanks, Greg
<The nitrate and what it indicates (other metabolite accumulation) are your root problem here. Fix... see WWM re Nitrates... Bob Fenner>

Re: puffers and copper   2/8/06
I put the fish in another tank with <20ppm nitrate and after one day it  is doing much better.  I know that at one time I had that tank at between  
300-400ppm nitrate and all the fish (including two puffers) were thriving.  
<There is more to the situation than: high nitrates bad, low nitrates good... Please see WWM...>
weird.  I've come to the conclusion that if you acclimate them slowly to a  high nitrate situation they will do fine but if you take sensitive a fish out of  the
ocean that is used to zero nitrates and put it in a polluted tank it will suffer from nitrate poisoning.
<Yes, well put. In general, this is so>
Unfortunately, I had to lose a beautiful  golden puffer before I realized this.  
<Thank you for the follow-up. Bob Fenner>

-Possible Isopod issues-   1/20/06
Hello all!
<Hello, Justin with you this evening.>
First of all, THANK YOU so very much for your amazing site!  It is such a wealth of fantastic information,
and is truly (in my humble opinion) the best wet-pet resource on the web!
<Well its all due to many people who help, and the crew here. Ill pass your thanks on to Bob.>
I currently maintain a 120G fish-only tank.  In addition to the 3" puffer (Diodon holocanthus), there
is also a 4" angel (Pomacanthus imperator), 4" lion (Pterois volitans) and a couple of small (1-1.5")
damsels.  Salinity - 1.021, Temp - 80*F, Ammonia - 0, Nitrites - 0; Nitrates - 5ppm.
<An interesting mix, have you seen any aggression out of the Lionfish?  most of the time puffers, and lions may squabble, much to the lions detriment when the puffer breaks off spins or nips fins.  do keep an eye out for long term issues.  You also will probably need a bit bigger tank long term for these guys as all the fish get to 15" + other than the damsels.>
A couple of days ago, I noticed a small white spot medial to my puffer's left eye.  The spot does not
look like Oodinium or ick, but is rather large (2-3mm) and flat.  This morning, I noticed two more ventral
spots... also 2-3mm each, flat, and completely circular!  They do not look like any sort of parasite
that I know of, and it seems very strange to acquire trauma with those manifestations.  Also, the spots are
bright solid white, and almost appear "indented" into the skin.  What on earth could this be? <The indented part seems very odd, as most parasites are bulges outward or bumps. It may be an isopod of some sort that has decided to attach on. they can be fairly easily treated in hypo salinity dips or by using a anti parasite medicine in a hospital tank for a few days.  However, From what you are saying it is hard to give you a definite answer on it.  Can you maybe send in a good photo of the area in question.  It would be much more helpful in identifying the culprit if one exists.  Also herding the puffer into a container and gently rubbing the area to see if it comes off or is an actual indentation may save you further headache here.  My puffer enjoys digging up substrate (I have sand) and little pieces get stuck in the spines and look very odd and are a similar size to what you are saying.  Also mine enjoys playing in the sump return pipe and getting micro bubbles all over him as well.  It could be a benign item like that.>
His attitude is perky as always, and he is eating great!  I am at a loss on this one... any ideas?
<You have me a bit stumped as well on this, but Id check the basics first, and a gentle rubbing of your finger on the area may reveal a simple answer to your concern.  Try watching it for now and see if any more appear or if they disappear all together. I will forward this to Bob for some further ideas.  If you can grab a photograph of the area and send it in as I said above, it may be much more telling.>
Thanks in advance for everything!
Christine
<Thank you for being clear, and including everything tank wise I needed to know to focus on the issue.  Hope we can figure this out.>
<Justin (Jager)>  

Poor Planning/Husbandry and Puffer Health - 12/13/2005
Hello -
<Hi Francesca.>
I noticed very recently that my Porcupine Puffer has been gasping/ labored breathing and stays around the top, as if 1) there's too much ammonia or not enough oxygen in tank or 2) some parasitic problem, maybe gill flukes?
<This doesn't bode well for your tank. Has your Puffer been puffing at all (or ever). They are usually very good first indicators of poor conditions.>
Just for background, I have a 30 gallon tank with a Clown, the Puffer, small Damsel and Yellow Tang.
<This demonstrates extremely poor planning or a lack there of. Neither the Puffer nor the Tang are suitable here. They should both be removed to larger systems. This inappropriate stocking is a good part of your problem. Both will have stunted growth and die prematurely if they remain. The choice however is ultimately yours.>
The Puffer's about 4 inches. I checked water conditions, Ph,
<pH> ammonia of course, etc, and everything's fine.
<I can draw no such conclusion here.>
I like keeping my salinity level lower (not a reef tank) at 1.020, also hear it's good for preventing Ich supposedly, not sure?
<Do read up on hyposalinity on our site for more info.>
They seem fine though.
<Obviously not.>
Just did a water change too. I do these every 2-3 weeks, about 20% or so.
<Being this overstocked you should be doing these much more frequently. Skimmer?>
Every week I put in calcium supplements to maintain Ph (in particular Kalkwasser mix, and All in One Salifert).
<Do you know what your doing with these? How much calcium is lost in your tank weekly? If not testing/regulating accordingly, please stop. Increase water change frequency.>
I'm usually
<Usually!?>
careful pouring the Kalkwasser mixed with freshwater in it (I hear you're supposed to pour in slowly),
<Only go on what you know and understand thoroughly. Going on what you've heard can be deadly and doesn't often apply in such cases.>
but last week I may have poured it in too fast and 'burned' a bit of the puffer tail fringes. I'm wondering whether I may have slightly affected his gills too, thus the labored breathing.
<Do you know the effects of a sudden pH spike? The effect it would have on any measurable amount of ammonia?>
But that was last Thursday and it's already Monday. Or is it gill flukes? I hear that's hard to diagnose.
<I doubt it's more than inappropriate care.>
What should I do? I love this guy - his name's Piggy (aptly named of course). Great personality, good color and weight (not too fat). Even though he's acting like this, he still eats like a pig and is relatively active when I'm ready to feed him.
<You'll need to start frequent water changes (at least weekly), study more on additives and their use/need and either buy a larger (100 gal. at least) system for these or adopt them out.>
Thanks for your help, sorry email so long! I'm just at a loss what to do.
<I know this was not at all what you wanted to hear and understand your attachment to your livestock. You must however consider what is best for them and how to best help them here. Just think how it would feel to constantly try harder (which can also hurt things if misapplied) only to watch them fade and slowly waste away (or become brain damaged, neurotic, Etc.). Besides, a little well intentioned "tough love" is what we all need sometimes.>
Francesca
<Josh>

Puffer's Nose Has Been 'Bitten' Off  12/13/05
Hey WWM Crew!
<Neil>
It seems like every couple of months I find a new reason to ask you guys a question.  Don't know what I would do without WWM!
<Me neither... but I like to consider what I might do with all the extra time...>
You might remember my last question.  I was the gentleman that had purchased a Humu Humu trigger that, strangely enough, caused my Blue Hippo Tang to start attacking my Porcupine Puffer.  
<Displaced aggression... happens>
Well, I followed your advice and the Blue Tang came out and got her own tank for a couple of months.  Problem was that every time I put her back in, she would start up with the tail nipping again.  Finally, I decided that the Trigger must go - which, might I add, was no small task.  I eventually ended up taking a whole piece of live rock to the LFS and waiting for them to call when he had decided to come out - six hours later!
<Persistence pays>
Once the Trigger was gone, I rearranged the live rock and put the Blue Tang back in, and all was peaceful.  I even discovered a few crabs and snails that had been in hiding!  
<Neat>
Now, here's my latest issue.  I feed a mixture (blender and some tank water to mix it) of tilapia filets, jumbo shrimp, cocktail shrimp (left mostly whole), mussels (sp?), real crab meat if I can get it, and Nori.  After blended, I put the nasty mix into a large Ziploc storage bad and spread it thin on a cookie sheet, which is then placed in the freezer.
<Good technique>
My puffer will grab the frozen hunk and, while trying to gulp it down, keep it partially sticking out of his mouth.   The other fish, naturally, are not deterred and go right ahead and eat off of the other end of the hunk.
<Better to make two or more "sub-hunk" pieces>
  Some days ago (5?) I noticed that the very tip of Puffy's nose (really the upper lip area that somewhat extends onto his face) had been bitten off.  I did not see it happen, so I can only assume that this is what happened.  Since then, his nose has progressively disappeared.  At this point, the wound area, where his flesh is exposed, is slightly larger than a hole punch.  I am curious, have you ever heard of such a thing?
<Yes, have seen>
Is it likely that the Tang has switched ends - from nipping his fin, to nipping his face?  
<Maybe>
Or, and this is my suspicion, did he likely get a small wound, and the 'begging act' of dragging his face across the acrylic 24 hours a day took its toll on the open wound?  
<Much more likely, common>
Is this something that I should treat, as its quite a good sized wound (he is only about 5 inches total length)?  I can see the skin 'flexing' as he pushes it across the acrylic.  What, if anything, should I do?
<Nothing overt... not likely to help... nor the rubbing to be affected>
Oh yeah, I have yet to witness the Tang nipping at the Puffer since I put her back in, and previously she did it constantly.
<Good>
As always your insight is so greatly appreciated that I fail to find the appropriate words.
Thank You and Happy Holidays!
Neil
<And to you and yours as well. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Puffers, Feeding, Quarantine, Reading.... 10/19/2005
Hi I
<Please remember to capitalize your "I"s.  Takes time to correct these.>
just recently received a dog face, porcupine, and spiny puffer from a mail order site on the internet. I have a 120 gallon tank with some damsels and 2 triggers.
<Far too small for this much life; and, depending upon your triggers, perhaps VERY incompatible life....  Uh, and you seem to imply that you did not quarantine these animals??>
The new puffers will not eat anything. I have tried freeze dried krill, frozen krill, shrimp, crawdads, frozen brine shrimp. Nothing seems to work. I just had one death after a week. The spiny puffer died.
<Many possibilities aside from simply starving....  quarantine is more than essential with new livestock....>
Please help, I would like to save my dogface and porcupine before it is too late. Is there anything I can do to get them to eat or any food they can't refuse?
<Might try live ghost shrimp - though I must point out that, with established aggressive feeders (triggers) in the system, the puffers may simply be outcompeted for food.  I would urge you to immediately remove the puffs to a quarantine system for feeding, observation, recuperation....>
Also I did just have my water checked they said it was good.
<Never rely on what "they said"....  Your next investments should not be livestock, but your own test kits; this is as essential as quarantining new livestock.>
Also I heard garlic drops might initiate feeding, is this true?
<Possibly.  Soaking food in garlic and vitamin supplements is often a good idea with new additions, but it will not solve your root problems of overstocking and possible incompatibility.>
Please help fast, they're getting skinny.  Jeff
<Please do yourself and your livestock a huge favor and begin reading; most everything you ask is already archived:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm .  Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

Intentionally Puffing a Puffer  8/24/05
Hola from Cozumel Mexico,
<Hi, from Pufferpunk in Chicago>
I am hoping you can help.  I am a SCUBA Instructor and dive shop owner in Cozumel, Mexico.  Our coral reefs are part of a protected marine environment.  We strictly enforce the no touch rule for ALL marine life, including coral, fish, sponges, etc.
<I am also a diver & underwater photographer of 7 years.>
There seems to be a controversy regarding the harmful effects of
intentionally inflating a puffer fish/porcupine fish.   
<Hmmm, what about the no touch rule?>
Obviously this behavior is annoying, particularly when a diver or a dive guide intentionally inflates a porcupine or puffer fish for photo opportunities or just for the "entertainment" value.  My question is this:  Is this in fact harmful for the fish?  Many sources say they will die after so many inflations, others say they can die if overly stressed causing them to over inflate, and so on.
<I think pictures of purposely inflated puffers are disgusting (especially if in someone's hands)!  It shows a severely frightened fish that is stressed out.  You are correct on your 2nd assumption.  The puffing in general is a defensive move so it can't be devoured by predators.  It is indeed stressful to frighten a fish unnecessarily, to cause it to puff up.  The repeated stress can eventually kill the fish.  What is definately deadly, is for it to puff with air, as it cannot deflate itself or upright itself.>
Your expert opinion/advice on this topic is greatly appreciated.  I look forward to your reply.
<Thank you for posting this question for folks to read at our website.  I also this will hinder the unnecessary stressing of this wonderful species.  ~PP>
Sincere regards, Christi Courtney
Blue XT~Sea Diving
Cozumel, Mexico

PORCUPINE PROBLEM
         Hi there. I was wondering if you could help me out here.  I've searched for answers everywhere and can't seem to find a similar case. Alright I just got a porcupine puffer last Sunday from my saltwater fish store, the only store I really trust. They said they had him for 3 weeks in that tank and he appeared to be perfectly healthy. I got him home fine and the next morning he had white blotches all over his fins. I figured it was just stress from the move.
<Most likely so...>
  Then two days later his skin got rough like sand paper and he got white blotches on his body. that night my Volitans lionfish got white spots all over his fins. So I checked him when I got out of work the next day an the Volitans was clear and free and the puffer was looking good but still had the white on his fins. Today [Saturday] the Volitans is still fine but the puffers skin is kind of rough again.  The water is fine he is acting fine but he still hasn't eaten since I've got him. does this sound like anything you have ever seen before. I would really appreciate any info you may have cause I'm not sure what to do, if anything . Thank you for your time,                                                                 confused fish guy
<Could be something in the way of "just blemishes" from stress as you state... but there is a definite likelihood of parasitic disease here... even though the new fish was on site at your LFS for three weeks... I don't see in your note a mention of quarantine, or even simple preventative dip/bath... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/parasiti.htm
and through the linked files above... to gain an understanding of what has gone on, will likely ensue here, what your choices, chances are at intervention. Bob Fenner>

Blind puffer
Hello, I hope you can help!
<Will try>
I have a golden dog faced puffer, that one day just turned up blind. I've tried to read all over your site on what causes fish to go blind, but can only assume a nutritional deficiency.
<Mmm, this and some infectious, parasitic diseases, poor water quality, overly intense lighting, genetic disposition....>
Only I have been feeding my puffer, shrimp, squid, cockle etc. Which I thought was a pretty varied diet. This condition also just happened overnight. So the only thing I felt I could do is make sure my fish got more vitamins.
<Good idea>
I started adding Vita-chem to the water, because my fish would never eat food with Vita-chem on it.  The only way to feed my fish was to put the food directly in front of her mouth since she could not see it. This worked fine for several weeks until now she is not interested anymore. She gets relatively excited about the smell of the food, but will not eat. I cannot even force it in her mouth from a long feeding stick. She gets angry, and swims away. If I continue, she will hide behind the rocks. Is there anything I can do?
<Perhaps consider force-feeding per se... in the hopes of spontaneous cure>
She is blind, and not eating, and getting thin. Her fins are starting to show signs of deterioration and she stays on the bottom of the tank most of the time. If she hears me, she will get up to swim.  I am deeply frustrated and feel awful I cannot seem to help her. I have had her for two years, and she is my only fish in a tank by herself. I continue to add Vita-chem to the water, but at what point do you continue to watch a fish deteriorate and face death? What can I do?
Thank you, its nice to have you all out there to help!
<The Vita-Chem product (Boyd's) is a fine choice, addition... Am not able to state what the root cause/s of the blindness of your fish is/are here. At the last, I encourage you to consider humane euthanasia... Please see here re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/euthanasiafaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>

Puffer Lockjaw  6/16/05
Has anyone ever actually cured this? Any idea of time it takes? Not giving  up, but would like to know reality of situation.  
<Yes, there has been some success of comeback but only with the use of iodine & force feeding w/vitamin-packed foods (especially the Bs).  Many have died though--I believe they waited too long to start treatment & the fish never responded.  You might want to talk to the folks at The Puffer Forum about other stories: www.thepufferforum.net>
Thanks!  Nancy
<Good luck & don't give up on him!  ~PP>

- Labored Breathing from Puffer - Jason's go
Hi Everyone,
I am completely perplexed about this one. You guys have been a HUGE help to me before so I figured I'd write. I've had this particular green spotted puffer for about 3.5 years. I've written before about him in terms of acclimatizing him to full marine about 3 years ago. I did so with Bob's advise very successfully.  He and his other puffer buddy have been thriving in my 72 and now scaled back 45 gallon marine setup for the past 3 years. The setup is 3 years old.  Sorry for the length of the email but I wanted to provide some background. <Much appreciated.>
I noticed late last week that he was not himself. He's usually extremely sociable and full of energy. He was very quiet and I noticed that his breathing was a bit labored. Water parameters are normal (see parameter specifics below) and everyone else in the tank is normal (2nd puffer, goby, maroon clown). I decided to give him a fresh water dip and buffered the ph and temperature in the fresh water accordingly (I also consulted the Conscientious Marine Aquarist for reference - so thanks again) and at that point decided to quarantine him in my hospital tank (well maintained and seeded with water from the main system, no substrate, power head, filter (polywool/charcoal), heater, no chemically reactive items just a flower pot as directed previously by Bob - see specs below). He doesn't seem to be getting any better. His breathing is still very labored. I'm not sure what to do, he's an amazing fish and I'm terrified of losing him. Wondering if anyone might be able to offer some advise. He's been pretty lethargic, hasn't eaten in about 3 days (that I can tell) and he's hanging around near the top of the tank (which I know can be from lack of oxygen in the water)...but  I've got a power head running for airflow and the temperature is normal so I'm not sure what to do. Any ideas? <Not really... your water tests look pretty good. Would just continue on your path and try to offer some foods it might find interesting. I'm not certain on the life span of these fish, but it's possible that this fish has reached the end of his. I'd prefer to think though that this is not the case and that the fish is just working something out.> It doesn't seem to be parasitic from what I can tell. He's not flicking, or having any other tell-tale signs that I'm familiar with.
Should I medicate with Copper safe? <I wouldn't.>
Should I lower the salinity? <You may want to try this.> temperature? <Is pretty good where it is.>
Should we ride it out in quarantine? <I would.> He's been in there 3 days. I'll keep him there until he shows some improvement for at least more than a week.
Could this be old age? <Is my thinking.> How long to puffers generally live? <I'm pretty sure it is close to a decade... but am not certain.> Any thoughts on getting him to eat (I alternate their food between the following:
homemade (per the recipe in Conscientious marine aquarist), Krill, Nori and finely chopped raw shrimp now and then) There haven't been any changes to the home system since I moved 6 months ago. Any ideas? <I wish I had some... I will put a copy of your email in our resident puffer specialist's inbox in hopes that she'll see it and respond.>
Any help would be so wonderful, my fear is that he's running out of time.
Thank you so much.
-Amy
Main tank
PH - 8.2
Salinity - 1.025
Temp -approximately  78 degrees
Ammonia - 0
Nitrites & Nitrates - 0
Phosphates - 0
Hospital Tank
PH - 8.2
Salinity - 1.025
Temp - 79 degrees
Ammonia - 0
Nitrites & Nitrates - 0
Phosphates - 0
<Cheers, J -- >

Puffer Not Well  6/7/05 Jeni's go
Hi Everyone,
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I am completely perplexed about this one. You guys have been a HUGE
help to me before so I figured I'd write. I've had this particular
green spotted puffer for about 3.5 years. I've written before about
him in terms of acclimatizing him to full marine about 3 years ago. I did so with Bob's advise very successfully.  He and his other puffer buddy have been thriving in my 72 and now scaled back 45 gallon marine setup for the past 3 years. The setup is 3 years old.  Sorry for the length of the email but I wanted to provide some background.  I noticed late last week that he was not himself. He's usually extremely sociable and full of energy. He was very quiet and I noticed that his breathing was a bit labored. Water parameters are normal (see parameter specifics below) and everyone else in the tank is normal (2nd puffer, goby, maroon clown). I decided to give him a fresh water dip and buffered the ph and temperature in the fresh water accordingly (I also consulted the Conscientious Marine Aquarist for reference - so thanks again) and at that point decided to quarantine him in my hospital tank (well maintained and seeded with water from the main system, no substrate, power head, filter (polywool/charcoal), heater, no chemically reactive items just a flower pot as directed previously by Bob - see specs below). He doesn't seem to be getting any better. His breathing is still very labored. I'm not sure what to do, he's an amazing fish and I'm terrified of losing him. Wondering if anyone might be able to offer some advise. He's been pretty lethargic,
hasn't eaten in about 3 days (that I can tell) and he's hanging around near the top of the tank (which I know can be from lack of oxygen in the water)... but  I've got a power head running for airflow and the temperature is normal so I'm not sure what to do. Any ideas? It doesn't seem to be parasitic from what I can tell. He's not flicking, or having any other tell-tale signs that I'm familiar with.
<My 1st concern would be some kind of gill flukes.  Since FW dips are for parasites, it may help but at this stage, it may also stress out the fish.  Have you added any new fish recently?>   
Should I medicate with Copper safe?
<Absolutely not!  Puffers are extremely sensitive to meds & copper can cause death to puffers.>
Should I lower the salinity?
<This is where I would start.  There has never been any proof that putting a young BW puffer into marine conditions was harmful or not but it is best to keep them in BW, until they are approaching adulthood (>4").>
Temperature?
<Not necessarily>
Should we ride it out in quarantine? He's been in there 3 days. I'll
keep him there until he shows some improvement for at least more than a week.
<My other concern is your tank size & water parameters.  I'm not sure what test kit you're using but you should be showing some nitrates.  Adult GSPs (>4"), need 30gal /fish.>
Could this be old age? How long to puffers generally live?
<10+ years>
Any thoughts on getting him to eat (I alternate their food between the following: homemade (per the recipe in Conscientious Marine Aquarist), krill, Nori and finely chopped raw shrimp now and then).
There haven't been any changes to the home system since I moved 6
months ago. Any ideas?
<Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/gspsart.htm.  You can also post your Q at my puffer forum, for other suggestions (many puffer-minds better than one): http://www.thepufferforum.org/  ~PP>
Any help would be so wonderful, my fear is that he's running out of time.
Thank you so much.  -Amy
Main tank
PH - 8.2
Salinity - 1.025
Temp -approximately  78 degrees
Ammonia - 0
Nitrites & Nitrates - 0
Phosphates - 0
Hospital Tank
PH - 8.2
Salinity - 1.025
Temp - 79 degrees
Ammonia - 0
Nitrites & Nitrates - 0
Phosphates - 0

- Puffer Fish Problems -
I have a Porcupine Puffer at my office and over the long weekend "he" developed bubbles around his fins. <Around or in?> We have a company who takes care of the tank and he was out yesterday and did not know what was wrong with him.  He was floating at the top of the tank and had very little movement due to the bubbles around his fins. His fins also look wilted in some areas.  What could have caused this to happen and how can we fix it. <Well... it depends. There is a condition known as gas bubble disease which is caused by air under high pressure entering the blood stream of the fish and then forming bubbles in the extremities (fin tips, scales, etc.). This isn't really a disease per se, but more of a syndrome caused most often by leaks in the plumbing of a tank which allow air to be drawn in by pumps and injected into the water under high pressure. As I said, it's not a very common problem and its just as likely that there are some small bubbles trapped in the slime on your puffer's fins. Mention the gas bubble problem to your maintenance people - if the tank actually has plumbing, it would pay to have them check it over. If it has a simple filtration system, then the problem probably isn't gas bubble disease. More on that here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/PdBblDisease.htm >
Please help... the whole office loves this fish.
Thanks
Lisa
<Cheers, J -- >

Puffer with ich 15 May 2005
I will try to make this short. 
<Hi E, MacL here with you today.> 
After hundreds of dollars spent, unbelievable stress and heartache, using professional fish services for set up and maintenance, the loss of a beloved dogface puffer of 6 years I am ready to give up. 
<Don't give up.> 
Here is my problem I have a new stars and stripped puffer and a tang in a 55 gallon SW tank. This is the same tank that has had ick. I am treating the tank with copper yet again because this is what the service prefers. The copper level is 0.4, Salinity 32 or SG 1.023, ph 7.8, ammonia 0.0, nitrite 0.2, nitrate 40? 
<Whoa, that nitrate level is pretty high, both nitrates and nitrites should be zero and the ph level is very low. Even assuming its a morning reading. I think that's what's keeping your fish vulnerable to the ich.>
What do I do? Prior to the death of my dogface I knew nothing as I had a service come in. I have another service and have learned everything I can so that in an emergency I was prepared. 
<Very wise.> 
My new pet has ick again and I don't know if or what to do. I cannot do this anymore. What do I do to get this crap out of my tank. 
<Copper usually eliminates ich but there are other ways that can eliminate it as well. My concern is that until you get your nitrates down and your nitrites gone you are going to continue to have to deal with this. You might contact your service and ask them why you are having such high levels.> 
I am afraid of dips but if I must I will do it. I just need to be told exactly what to do. 
<If your puffer has ich that is starting to get into his gills or eyes I recommend freshwater dipping. Its a fairly simple procedure. You get the dip water to the same ph and temperature as your tank water. Catch the fish and put the fish in the freshwater for five minutes. They can stay longer but I find that five minutes is usually long enough to eliminate the ich.> 
I also need to know what is the best for these little guys. My pet has cloudy eyes and the ick seems to be getting worse. The temp is 80. Should and how do I begin to raise the temp? 
<I try to keep my tanks at 78 degrees or sometimes a bit lower if its a fish only tank. It keeps the growth of bacteria down in the tank.> 
I do not have a hospital tank. The ick appeared and killed my other puffer, then after a month I got this new puffer (stars and stripped) he got ick and I or the service treated with copper, and it cleared up. Now its back again. 
<I think the ich is back because your tank is out of balance and has high levels of some things and low levels of others. If you or your service can get the tank back into a better balance it will help the fish immensely. So the first thing I would recommend is a water change.> 
Please tell me how and what is the best. None of the books tell you exactly what to do. I hear so many things and need help fast. 
<I would go on and dip your fish if you think he is strong enough to handle the dip. At this point the ich is attaching his eyes and his gills so its vital to get him some relief. Another thing I might consider doing is using a diatom filter on the tank to get rid of the ich parasites. Hope that helps. MacL> 

Side Note to Puffer Query Above! 15 May 2005
<E you should know that your puffer is going to majorly outgrow the tank that you have it in currently. They are voracious eaters and they grow so very quickly. It might be that his eating habits (they are messy eaters as well) is part of the reason for the nitrates. Just wanted you to think about that with him. MacL> 

Puffer with spots, using WWM
Hello crew
I love your site and find some reason to spend at least an hour cruising it whenever I get online. Thanks for all the advice ya'll have already given me, but I'm back again...
I have a dogfaced puffer who has been in  my 110 gal tank with a blue damsel since 4-23. he was taken out of QT early because I was having trouble controlling the ammonia and nitrites.  When he was moved he had no spots. Over the last
week I have seen about 2 or 3 spot on each fin that seems to go away and come back at random. At first I thought it was sand or micro bubbles on him, now I don't know. the spots are about the size of the point of a pin (like you use in sewing). He has also gotten a spot over his eye, now.  He shows no other signs of distress and seems much happier since the move. Sluggo (the puffer) has made friends with Fiona (the damsel) and they often hang out in the same cave and share meals. I feed him shrimp and squid alternating the menu on feeding days.  I hate to move him again so soon. I will be buying a 30 gal Rubbermaid container to replace my 10 gal QT just in case.  Should I try lowering the SG in the display and feeding him garlic soaked foods to help him fight this problem?  Or does this require more aggressive treatment? (my water parameters are
as follows: amm=0, no2=0, no3= less than 5, ph=8.2, sg=1.023, temp=79)  If he manages to fight off this pest  without leaving the tank fallow, will every fish I buy have to fight this battle now? I intend to add a flame angel and a lunar wrasse in the future. thanks again for all your help
Beth
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fishindex3.htm  scroll down to the puffer area... re puffer disease, systems... Bob Fenner>

Stars and Stripes Puffer... Disease, WWM
Hello again,
<Hi there>
It has been almost two weeks since I moved and set up the established tank that I bought. The puffer is still sick and not eating, but we have seen him poop a couple of times. The poop is mostly white and it seems kind of 'dry' (as dry as something can be underwater). I have not seen him eat anything in two weeks and the previous owner said that he hadn't eaten in almost 4 weeks at the time I bought the tank. He has shown no interest in any of the food variations I have tried. The lump under his chin has not gone away, some days it looks like it is a little smaller, but hard to tell for sure.
<Perhaps an internal parasite problem... I take it you've read through the many Puffer Feeding FAQs files, have considered Epsom, Metronidazole/Flagyl...>
The water quality appears very good right now. One ammonia spike last week but it is currently zero. Nitrite is at zero, I have never read any signal of nitrite in the tank. Nitrate is at 40ppm currently, but that is down from over 100 when I moved the tank. I am conducting 15-20 gallon water changes to try and bring that level down further. This is a 125gallon tank.
Two additional problems have risen since I moved the tank. The puffer had a tear-drop shaped 'scar' on his side that started to peal away like a scab. It is now completely gone and white tissue is now exposed, less then a half an inch in diameter. I'm not sure what to do about this, I added some Amquel plus to maybe give some help with the healing of this problem. 
The other concern just happened today. The puffer seemed to have some red spots on his tail and sure enough later I saw the sailfin tang taking nips at the puffer's tail. I am very concerned about this and don't know what to do. The puffer is very lethargic an is usually laying on the ground but gets mad and tries to swim away when the sailfin nips at him.
I really appreciated your previous email and would love to hear if you have any further recommendations for my situation.
Thanks again,
David
<Please read through the above area and Puffer Disease FAQs. Bob Fenner> 

Something in the way of knowledge about keeping a Diodontid... too small a system, too ambiguous...
Just bought a porc. puffer . He's in a 30 Gallon Tank By himself. The filter system is wet/dry combo refugium. He started rubbing his snot and head on the glass and it looks like he or she is rubbing the skin off. Is it because he stress there is nowhere for him to hide. Should I put live rock in there for him to hide. please HELLLLP
<What? Please read re this animal on WWM. Bob Fenner> 

Sick Golden Puffer
Greetings. 8 days ago I purchased a golden puffer from my LFS and I'm concerned with his weight. I have him in a 29 gallon hospital tank with perfect water parameters, and has been up and running for 4 months. I perform weekly water changes in this tank and constantly monitor all aspects of it. My puffer is only interested in eating once a day, and then he takes in food and spits most of it out, repeating this process many times. 
He doesn't actually ingest much food as I end up taking it out of the tank shortly thereafter. His belly is looking pinched and he looks very thin. I have had a stars and stripes and a dogface in the past who ate like hogs and never spit the food out. I know some puffers demonstrate this trait, but I'm concerned that he doesn't even care to look at food any other than the one time he eats a little. 
I read your article on puffer disease and it mentioned internal parasites. I was wondering if this may be a possibility and if I should try some Metronidazole (sp) to treat any potential problems?. He is very active with the tail out behind him. No ich. no fin tears and he looked great coming to me from the shipper to the LFS. He also doesn't sleep much at all, constantly on the move all night and day. This was a very expensive fish and I have a 125, 250, and 400 gallon tank, and take great pride in my fish and always try and keep them as well as I can. Lastly I feed him octopus and squid tentacle, clam, shrimp, and silversides. Any advice would be very helpful as I am stressing big time atm. Thanks in advance.
<All this and more that you will want/need to know is addressed/archived on WWM, under puffer disease FAQs files, the chemicals used in treatments... Please read there. Bob Fenner> 

Sick stars and stripes puffer
I've had a 15 inch stars and stripes puffer for about five years in a 135 gal tank. The nitrates have been high in the tank since we got him, but recently we've brought them down a bit. When I tested them today, they were really high again.
<Happens... quite common in (small) aquariums, large puffers...>
The ammonia is also a little high. Is it possible that this is only affecting him and not the dogface puffer or scat that are also in there?
<Yes, definitely... there should be no, zip, zero detectable ammonia>
He's had several minor bouts with ich but he's always recovered with the help of garlic. A few days ago, my small dogface puffer in the same tank had some sort of infection...his eye was cloudy and he had small white spots on his fins (probably ich). We treated him with antibiotics and he's looking great now. It was about this time that my big puffer, the stars and stripes, staring acting strangely. He's extremely skittish, which around me is uncommon. He also is completely ignoring the food I'm putting in there, which he's never done before. His breathing is labored and fast (although slightly better after I put in a poly filter). However...there are no real telltale signs of anything. His tail fin looks a little discolored and there are some small white dots at the edges of his tail, side, and top and bottom fins. I don't know whether it's ich or not because they have been there for quite a while. Also, there is no scratching. He's still swimming around and looks pretty alert, though.
What do you suggest? Please help me! I couldn't bear to lose him but I'm not sure what else to do.
<If there is any ammonia, stop feeding... altogether. If the ammonia approaches, exceeds 1.0 ppm, do a massive water change... look for the cause of loss of nitrification and remedy it (likely a shortfall with your substrate, live rock... I would switch out, add a bunch more... and possibly add a bacterial solution... my choice: BioSpira. Bob Fenner>

Porcupine puffer White cotton
I have porcupine puffer that I have had for almost 2yrs in the same tank, my
water levels are slightly on the high side at the moment but with in the
safe zones.
<What does this mean?>
I have been doing regular water changes and have stepped them
up as of late because of what I noticed on my puffer.  He still has his huge
appetite and is not scratching or acting weird in anyway.  I have just
recently noticed a white film coming from just under one of his quills.  I
immediately did a fresh water dip and this seems to clear up the majority of
it but it will not fully go away.  I have given him a few more dips and it
still lingers on.  I thought and still think it may be Marine Velvet.
<Doubtful>
My
hospital tank conveniently sprang a leak as of late so I only have my
display tank right now.  None of my other fish (Juvenile Koran Angel going
through change, Maroon and gold clown, orange shoulder tang also changing, a
Foxface lo, and two 6 line wrasses, along with 3 brittle stars and a host of
hermit crabs and snails) have any sighs of distress or problem either so I'm
hoping it is not Velvet but not sure.  Is there anything I can put in when I
dip him that may help as I do not like putting any extra chemicals in the
display tank for obvious reasons plus it is a 250 gallon so it is way to
expensive to treat anyway.  I will be getting a new hospital tank but can't
afford that right now.  Would Epson
<This is a printer company>
salt help the situation in either the
display tank or when I dip him.   Please help.  I have read a lot of stuff
on you sight which is how I found out you could use Epson salt.  
Thank you
Mike  
<Time to send you to the homepage: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/index.html
Use the indices or search tool to look up re Puffer diseases, velvet, water quality... Bob Fenner>

Puffer with velvet, need to use