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Wrasse Having Difficulty Getting off Bottom of TANK    3/20/20
Hello,
Looking for some thoughts/options. I have a 65 gallon mixed reef tank. Very stable tank. Weekly water changes/husbandry done.
<Ah, good. Am a huge fan... I spend a couple of hours every Sunday doing them>
Water chem is stable and fine. I have had this tank set up for about 4 years and have never had many losses. All of my fish go though a QT. So over the last few days I lost 2 fish and one is not looking good.
1) lost a one spot fox face that has been in the tank for about 2 years.
2) lost an algae eating blenny - newest fish added, has been in tank for about 2 months.
3) Hoeven wrasse, is alive but constantly laying on sand. Wrasse has been in tank for about 3 1/2 years. Bought mature so could be getting old.
<Mmm... so far this reads as some sort of environmental issue... not pathogenic (involving a disease-causing organism).
To be honest - I did take blenny out of QT after about 10 days of QT. Treated w Cupramine and Prazi. I do usually do a good 2 weeks but there wasn't much algae in qt so I felt like he needed to eat more. (might be the problem but since no visible sign of parasites on other fish it's hard to say)
Fox face was showing some damage to tail fin but seemed consistent with backing into rocks. Other fins were healthy. Always ate well no issues.
I'm primarily writing about the wrasse. He has always been healthy- if it were wrasse alone I might think his time is just up. He has been w me for about 4 years and I bought him mature. However, since I lost 2 fish so I'm not so sure.
I was able to look at wrasses fins closely with magnifying glass. Seems fine, nothing on fins. No white dots. Fins seem very healthy but breathing seems a little laborer. Very tired Don't think it's Ich but maybe in gills where I can't see.
<Again; I don't think this is infectious, parasitic>
The MAIN issue is that he has difficultly getting off of the bottom of the tank. He is able to swim around but it’s a struggle. After swimming for a few minutes he resorts to laying on the sand bed. My though is that it’s swim bladder. I have him in QT and started treating with Maracyn 2, but not sure if that’s the right move???
PLEASE ADVISE!
In addition I have another 8 or so fish- flame, damsel, 2 clowns, jawfish, basset, 3 cardinals. All have been w me a while. As of now all look good.
I have a bunch of mixed corals, all healthy, good growth.
Any thoughts from experienced people would be very much appreciated.
Thanks
Jay
<At this juncture, given your description... if it were me, mine, I'd default to warding off possibilities of poisoning... biological and not. Do read re some other instances here: http://wetwebmedia.com/envdisf13.htm
and the linked FAQs files in this series (in blue, above)
I'd stop all use of supplements and chemical feeds, and use PolyFilter and a granulated activated carbon product (ChemiPure is a fave) in your filter/water circulation pattern. Please do write me/us with your further observations. Bob Fenner>
Re: Wrasse Having Difficulty Getting off Bottom of TANK    3/20/20

Bob,
Thank you for your reply. Someone else suggested that it could have been hand sanitizer from overly using due to current pandemic.
<Could be... there (appears to be) is no pattern, considering the fishes you list, what you've lost, in order... in terms of indication of the type of poisoning (low oxygen let's say, or high metabolite concentration)>
Although I’m not really sure I did start running activated carbon in my filtration. I have been dosing BRS 2part and vodka for over 2 years without issues. I did start dosing Kent magnesium 1 x a week. Should I stop dosing?
<Yes; as I stated in your last email>
Also, do you think that it could be chem warfare between corals?
<A possibility; but again; other fishes would likely perish first>
I have Zoas, leathers, Monti caps & birds nest that are all getting quite big. Also have some mushrooms that are starting to get out of control. Do you think that this could be poising the fish?
<.... yes>
Thanks,
Jay
<W. B>

Ich on Purple Tang? Video attached    3/20/20
Hello Bob and Team;
<Anik>
Hope you are well! Bob, I have attached a video of my purple tang. I am in between transferring my old 100G to my new 180 gallon. Before restocking the rock and coral, I decided to go nuclear, and copper treat the fish because there was some Ich flare ups a few months ago.
<Hmmm; hard to eliminate entirely... >
I went 30days with copper power at 1.50+ppm and started removing copper as the fish looked good no signs of anything.
Until yesterday. I noticed the purple tang had some specks on him, looked like ick but I’m not sure. He’s actively eating, swimming and fins look good.
Could this be ick again?
<Ah, yes; could be>
I’m aiming for an ick free tank so I’m willing to go therapeutic again for another 30 days but wanted your advice.
<I myself would not do the copper exposure another 30 days... Too debilitating. There are adjuncts to remedies... the use of Vitamins, HUFAs, garlic, lowered spg... that I would try/use instead here>
The guidance I was given was that 30 days copper at therapeutic will sufficiently kill off Ich knowing that I won’t be moving the fish from the treated tank afterwards.
<Well; as I first stated here; Crypt is really hard to eliminate from a system once the parasite has cycled through life cycles... Can be done with livestock itself; in bare tanks... but really takes effort, time>
Let me know what you think.
Thank You!
<DO please use the search tool (on every page of WWM) to search re Cryptocaryon AND the terms I've listed above; and DO please write me/us if the path you decide on is not clear. Bob Fenner>
Ich on Purple Tang? Video attached /Wil    3/20/20

Hello Bob and Team;
<Hello Anik, Wil here>
Hope you are well! Bob, I have attached a video of my purple tang. I am in between transferring my old 100G to my new 180 gallon. Before restocking the rock and coral, I decided to go nuclear, and copper treat the fish because there was some Ich flare ups a few months ago.
I went 30days with copper power at 1.50+ppm and started removing copper as the fish looked good no signs of anything.
<Did you do this in a separate bare bottom tank?>
Until yesterday. I noticed the purple tang had some specks on him, looked like ick but I’m not sure. He’s actively eating, swimming and fins look good.
<Maybe it was not entirely eradicated>
Could this be ick again? I’m aiming for an ick free tank so I’m willing to go therapeutic again for another 30 days but wanted your advice.
<It is too risky to treat again; copper is very toxic.>
The guidance I was given was that 30 days copper at therapeutic will sufficiently kill off Ich knowing that I won’t be moving the fish from the treated tank afterwards.
<There’s no guarantee that in 30 days Ich will be completely eliminated, usually it stays dormant on gravel, decoration and other surfaces, been this one of the reasons to quarantine on a separate bare tank and let the DT go fallow for at least a month.>
Let me know what you think.
<I suggest trying hypo salinity and making sure to provide a good stress-free environment (via perfect water quality, a varied diet and vitamin supplementation), this way your fish immune system will be able to cope with the possibility of a new outbreak.>
Thank You!
<You’re welcome. Wil.>

Re: Wrasse Having Difficulty Getting off Bottom of TANK; Now question re something on wrasse snout    3/20/20
Bob,
Thank you for your reply. Someone else suggested that it could have been hand sanitizer from overly using due to current pandemic.
<Could be... there (appears to be) is no pattern, considering the fishes you list, what you've lost, in order... in terms of indication of the type of poisoning (low oxygen let's say, or high metabolite concentration>
Although I’m not really sure I did start running activated carbon in my filtration. I have been dosing BRS 2part and vodka for over 2 years without issues. I did start dosing Kent magnesium 1 x a week. Should I stop dosing?
<Yes; as I stated in your last email>
Also, do you think that it could be chem warfare between corals?
<A possibility; but again; other fishes would likely perish first>
I have Zoas, leathers, Monti caps & birds nest that are all getting quite big. Also have some mushrooms that are starting to get out of control. Do you think that this could be poising the fish?
<.... yes>
Thanks,
Jay
<W. B>

Please Help!     3/20/20
Hi,
<Hi>
First off, I’d like to thank you for all of the effort and contributions you have made. We are so lucky to have you available as a resource . Also, thank you for providing accurate, informative, and educational information. It is very much appreciated. :)
<Thank you very much for your words, we are really glad to help hobbyists.>
Moving along, I’ve had a 55g marine DT that had been established (and was running very smoothly) for a little over one year. Two days ago, this all changed when I purchased a dog face puffer from my LFS.
Please keep in mind that I’m still a newbie at this and have researched quite a bit but still have a lot to learn if and when I ask a stupid question.
So, two days ago I bought this dog face puffer (which appeared to be healthy and happy and no visible signs of stress or infections) from the same LFS and have never stumbled upon an issue until now. my puffer has ICH and velvet.... ��
Ignorantly I was under the impression of Hospital Tank was for diseased animals not taking into consideration that preventative methods are the best cure. STUPID! But now I know. I set up a HT for the DFpuffer, the radial filefish, and a Valentini puffer. The water parameters were within range for a FOWLR with the exception of the pH being low (testing at 7.9)I’m going to leave my DT FALLOW for 78 days but in the meantime I am treating the three fish in a 20 gallon HT with KORDON’s RID- ICH plus and API stress coat. I’m keeping the salinity low at 1.019.
<A very good product, but better used as a preventative/prophylactic resource, not when fish are already sick, I would use copper instead, but since you already start the treatment... low salinity is fine>
It is only day 3 and I am following the manufactures instructions on the back of each bottle only using a lower dosage because I don’t want to stress the puffer.
<I understand your concern but the downside of under dosing is that the treatment may not be as effective as when using the exact manufacturers recommended dose.>
I do a 50% water change daily and have given him a seven minute freshwater bath both days. It really seems to help but it does stress him out. He is almost visibly clear of the white spots. However he is acting very strange. I’m concerned and I could really use your advice. He is breathing heavily, not eating much, and is very lethargic (except for these semi-aggressive bursts. He’ll push his face up to the wall and shakes his body rapidly and whips his head back-and-forth as if he was trying to get something out of his gills.
<This are signs of acute stress>
I also found him rubbing up against the glass and spins or rolls over very fast crashing into the other side of the tank HARD! The parameters in my HT are
salinity: 1.019
PH 8.2
Nitrate 0
nitrate 0
Ammonia 1

<What about water temperature?>
(I know this is high. I’m doing at least a 50% water change daily and I’ve cut back on feeding. I am curious to know if I could add KENT‘ S pro ammonia detox with the Rid-ICH treatment? And/or if it would help any).
<I would keep the water changes instead of the Detox and add plenty of oxygen to this tank, an air stone or two in addition to your current set up>
He looks a lot healthier today than he did prior to treatment but I’m concerned about his behavior..
Do you have any advice/ for me so I can help him feel better. We both would very much appreciate it. Thank you!
<Please do a good reading on the following link and related http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm >
Blessed be!
<Cheers. Wil.>

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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