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Lighting Replacement BTA's    2/26/17
Crew,
<Mark>
It's been several years since I've had to write for some advice. I just can't seem to find a concise answer for my situation. Lighting is always one of those topics which gives me paralysis by analysis.
<Easy to understand w/ a bit of study... nowayears there are simple testing devices for PAR, PUR... The deal is you want to deliver oh so much photonic energy to the area of the livestock for so many hours per day...>
My current system is a 90 gal Acrylic tank (48 x 24 x 18) which is home to 4 Rose BTA's and 3 fish. It bought one BTA back in 2008 and it split, and then one of those split again.
<Oh! Or there's the good ole bio-assay... As your BTAs are living; there IS enough>
My current lighting consists of two Hang-on-Tank 150-watt Metal Halide fixtures (300 total) with 10,000K bulbs.
I also have two 55 watt power compact actinics that I use for morning and evening just for the color and effect.
<I like your description re the actinics>
My tank resides in a cabinet I built with a flip up sliding door to access the top of the tank. I had the Coral Life Hang-on-Tank fixtures on a glass tank prior to designing the cabinet for the 90 gal system. These Metal Halide fixtures are mounted to a bracket on the wall behind the tank because they did not fit the acrylic tank.
<A note for browsers to take great care w/ MHs due to their high heat production. NEED to be vented, often actively (fans) and insulated from the acrylic, wood... which they can catch on fire>
So, due to the cabinet design and flip up sliding door, I cannot hang pendants from above. One of the fixtures has broken due to age and deterioration of the plastic housing. The fixture still works so I have it "propped up". The other issue I have is with the power compacts. I bought DIY retrofit kits and have been using them for years. The company I purchased kits from also sold the bulbs and they have gone out of business. I cannot find replacement 55 watt actinics with the 4 straight pin connection anywhere.
<Mmm; call/contact Perry Tishgart at Champion re:
http://www.championlighting.com/home.php
All of that just to ask for a recommendation. I like the shimmer that the Metal halides provide.
<Are really neat>
I like the "look" of the actinics in the morning and evening. The most important issue is obviously providing the correct
amount of lighting for the BTA's.
<Yes>
I must buy something that sits on the tank since I cannot hang it from above and they do not make the same hang-on-back fixtures any more. I've been looking at LED's but really do not have any confidence that I know what I need to replace 300 watts of 10,000K Metal Halides.
<I am going to cc friend, fellow petfish type, WWM Crewmember and rep. for Orphek, James Gasta and ask for his input. He answers these sorts of queries all the time. James?>
I probably do not need as much light as I have, but the BTA's are doing very well so I'm very hesitant to change things. I fear that I'm on borrowed time with these fixtures and it is time to replace the bulbs. My choices seem to be LED and T5. The Metal Halides seem to be all pendant style mounts now and I can't use those.
Thanks for providing this service. I have gained much knowledge from Wet Web Media.
Mark
<Thank you for your kind words, and writing so clearly and completely Mark. Bob Fenner>

Ick; Didn't Quarantine        2/27/17
<Hi Mark. Gabe here from the crew>
My 400 gallon salt tank just got ick.
<Sorry to hear this. Every aquarist's nightmare>
It is fish only with no corals. I don't really want to medicate if at all possible so I don't kill off my live rock and sand.
<Ok. Might be your only choice in the end>
Any suggestions?
<Medications like copper are the best for FOWLR tanks, but there is an option if you don't want to medicate the display tank. The only way to do this would be to put all the fish in a quarantine tank with a medication.
This would keep the copper out of the display and keep your live rock and live sand alive. Throughout this quarantine period, you need to leave the display tank fallow/empty. Do not add any new specimens of any kind during this period Ick can not survive without a live fish host, so it will eventually all die off. I suggest an eight week period of quarantine and empty tank time. This will ensure all the ick is dead before you put the fish back in the tank. Other than this, there is no good way to not medicate the display tank. Hopefully this will be a life lesson to ALWAYS quarantine new fish. Let us know if you have any other questions. Cheers, Gabe>
Queries
        2/27/17
Hi Bob-
Just got back on WetWeb now that my show is over. Thanks for understanding.
I replied to a query about ick that was in the Marine Queries folder to "Mark Salay", but it turns out you already replied to it but it was never moved.
<No worries; better for folks to have more input rather than less>
I guess they will get two replies, hopefully not two conflicting ones :)
Leaving it in the deleted messages folder in case you want to post.
Cheers-
Gabe Walsh, WWM Crew
<And you, BobF>

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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