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Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical
Warfare -- 12/2/07 Dear Crew, <Hello Andy, Brenda here>
It's been a while since I rapped at ya. I have a question
about the health of my BTA. I have had it for 7 months or so,
during which time its color has gone from tan to a deep red. It
is paired up with a Gold Stripe Maroon Clown, and they have a
good relationship. I feed it about once per week with (I rotate)
Mysis, small pieces of table shrimp, and chopped oyster, all
soaked in Selcon. It has always readily taken food and remains
open and pointed upwards most of the time. I have a 110g display
(30" high) with 6x54W T5 HO (4x10000K and 2x460nm actinics)
that is on about 12 hours per day (I use a timer). I plan to swap
out at least the 4 10000Ks with 14000Ks when I replace my bulbs.
The BTA is attached to LR very near the bottom of my tank. Since
day 1, it has been in this same location, with minor realignments
from time to time. I have previously posted a question to WWM
about its position at the bottom of the tank and my lighting, as
I was concerned that my lighting might not be enough for it, but
the response was to leave things alone if the BTA was happy and
doing well. <Yes, I remember. If I'm not mistaken, both
James and myself answered your questions. This fixture does not
have individual reflectors correct?> Over the last 7-10 days,
however, I've noticed that the BTA appears a little wilted
(both its foot and its tentacles) and is no longer positioned
up/towards the light. <How old are the bulbs?> In fact, it
appears to be resting on the glass bottom of the tank. It is
still deep red in color and its foot remains attached to the same
ledge of LR. Last night I tried to feed it, but it did not take
the food or close up around itself as usual. <This is not a
good sign. Can you send me a picture of the anemone?> As you
know, you get to know your animals, and I just know that the BTA
is not itself. <Yes> Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and
phosphate are all 0. Temp is stable at 77-78*, <I prefer a bit
warmer temperature for anemones. I try to keep mine at 80
degrees.> pH is 8.3, alk is 3.5 meq/L, and salinity is 1.0245
(I have tried to get it up to 1.025 but can't keep it stable
there due to top-off, salt creep, etc.). <Be careful with salt
creep, it is dangerous to live stock. I recommend 1.026 for
anemones. I suggest topping off with salt water until you get to
1.026.> I also employ a 30g fuge (4" DSB, LR and Chaeto)
and a Coral Life Super Skimmer, and I run carbon in my sump
(change every 4 weeks). <I would try increasing the carbon
change to every 2 weeks.> I have about 85lbs of LR, a Sailfin
Tang, a Royal Gramma, a Brown Combtooth Blenny, and a Canary
Wrasse (in addition to the Clown), two Cleaner Shrimps, about 22
various types of shrooms, <Mushrooms are toxic. You may have a
chemical war going on here. Changing your carbon more frequently
may help.> 2 small tree corals, a Lemnalia, and some Xenia. I
do a 10% water change each week. Water is RO/DI. <Is it time
to change the filters?> Circulation is about 10x per hour. I
am very careful about not introducing any foreign substances
(cleaners, etc.). <Good!> Do BTAs go through these phases,
or should I be worried? <This is not a phase, something is
wrong here.> I don't know what I could be doing wrong or
not doing. <It may be a combination of things. I suspect the
mushrooms contributing largely to the problem. Lighting and RO/DI
filters may also be contributing. However, I would expect the
anemone to move higher up if it was not getting enough light.>
Thanks for any insight you may have. Andy <You're welcome!
Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical
Warfare -- 12/2/07 Thanks for the response, Brenda.
<You're welcome Andy! I received both of your e-mails, and
will answer both here.> I have attached 2 pictures of the BTA.
Unfortunately, it's positioned itself under a ledge, oriented
perpendicular to the front of the tank and out of light, so the
pictures aren't that great and I couldn't get a picture
of its mouth. I also don't have a macro lens yet, so the
image quality is what it is . . . <Hard to tell. The pictures
are much too dark. The anemone is much too small for a Maroon
Clownfish. Maroons can be rough on smaller anemones. It is
recommended that the anemone be 3 times larger than the
clownfish. The anemone is also too small for having it 7 months
with your feeding schedule. It is not getting the proper
nutrition. Is the clownfish or the shrimp stealing its food?>
I forgot to mention in my last e-mail that my calcium is 400, so
that is where it should be as well. I tried tonight to feed it
some fresh clam. It captured the clam and started to swirl its
tentacles, but I'm pretty sure it never ate the food (it
didn't form a bulb around itself as usual). <I suggest
trying some silversides. Not all anemones will accept the same
foods. There are many cases where some anemones reject many
common foods, and will accept silversides. Based on the condition
of the anemone, I would feed a 1/8 inch sized portion of
silversides daily. Once it improves I would go to 1/4 inch sized
portion every 2 to 3 days for a month or two.> Thanks again
for your help. <You're welcome!> Shoot! I forgot to
answer your other questions too. My RO/DI unit is 4-5 months old,
and my TDS reads 148 going in and 0 going out, so I think the
filters are working fine. <I would take a sample into your LFS
to double check. It is not uncommon for 4-5 month old filters to
need to be replaced.> My T5 bulbs are about 7 months old or
so--they do not have separate reflectors. <Is it time to clean
the salt off of the reflector and bulbs?> All of my mushrooms
are at the edges of my tank, and the BTA sits in the middle of my
tank. Relatively speaking, there isn't a mushroom near the
BTA. <They do not have to be next to each other to have
chemical warfare.> I will start swapping out the carbon more
often. I realize that things in the marine world happen slowly
(sometimes). The BTA and the shrooms have lived together for 5 or
6 months. <Chemical warfare is a perfect example of things
going bad slowly. With anemones, it can take months, or even a
few years before it starts showing ill signs. Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical
Warfare -- 12/4/07 Thanks again. <You're welcome!>
The anemone is actually quite big when healthy, at least 3 times
as big as the clown. I was able to get a feeding response from it
by trying another piece of fresh clam, but it wasn't nearly
as vigorous as usual. <I would still try the silversides. Are
you positive that what you have is a BTA? After our last e-mail,
I started thinking it may possibly be an LTA, which may explain
why it hasn't climbed higher in the tank.> I clean the
salt spray from the shields on my lights every week.
<Good!> Andy <Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical
Warfare -- 12/5/07 Brenda, <Andy> I'm not sure of
anything, although it was sold to me as a "bulb
anemone" and did have bubble tips for about the first month
or so, so I'm pretty sure it's a BTA. <It does appear
to be.> I will get silversides tonight and start the feeding
routine you suggested. I'll keep you posted. <Great!
I'll keep my fingers crossed!> Thanks for all your help.
Andy <You're welcome and good luck! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical
Warfare -- 12/7/07 Well Brenda, I am at a loss as to what is
going on with my BTA. For three nights I have tried to feed it
small pieces of silversides and I am pretty sure that the BTA
failed to eat at least 2 of those 3 times. Tonight, I stood on a
chair with my arm in the tank for 45 minutes chasing all my
hermits and shrimps away from the anemone hoping to ensure that
it could eat unmolested. <I would remove the hermits and
shrimp, or you could place a plastic strawberry basket over the
anemone. However, based on the location of the anemone, I
don't know if you are going to be able to do this. Removal of
the shrimp and crabs is best! I have seen shrimp go digging
inside an anemone looking for food several hours after feeding an
anemone. Eventually the shrimp became the anemones dinner. Pay
backs are rough sometimes. All crabs have the potential to be
predators.> My back now aches and the skin on my hand became
shriveled, and the BTA ultimately released the silverside without
eating. <Ouch!> I raised my temp to 80 degrees and the
salinity is now over 1.025. <Needs to be 1.026 and stable.>
Is it possible that it is getting ready to split and that's
why it is not eating? <Is possible, but I don't believe
this is what is going on.> If it starts to die, how in the
heck do I get it out of my tank? <First, I'm not sure that
your anemone is going to die soon, but it is possible. It is hard
to say without a better picture. However, in the even that it
does, you will need to remove it quickly before the rest of your
livestock dies. It is not going to be a fun easy task. If it is
already falling apart (this happens rather quickly) when you find
it, you may be able to suction it out. Either way, it is going to
be extremely unpleasant for you and your livestock. Keep plenty
of extra saltwater on hand. You will need to do a large water
change and run fresh carbon. Keep a close eye on the water
parameters for the first two week.> It's at the bottom of
my tank with its foot firmly planted under LR. Also, I seriously
believe my Clown will die from loneliness. <As I stated
before, your anemone is much too small for the Maroon. They need
to be separated. Maroons are harsh on a smaller anemone and
likely deadly to a sick anemone. Your clownfish will be a little
upset over the loss, but will not die without an anemone. Have
you taken your water samples in to be tested yet? Were the
readings the same as your test kits? I still believe that you do
not have enough lighting to support this anemone. Unfortunately,
I can not explain why it regained its color after you got it and
is now ill. Your lighting, a Maroon loving it to death, water
parameters, toxins in the water, the shrimp and the crabs, are
all possibilities. I would start looking into finding another
home for the anemone, preferably someone experienced with sick
anemones. I believe this situation is going to continue to
worsen. If you need help finding someone, let me know your
location and I will see if I can find someone local to you. For
now, I suggest contacting your closest reef club. A LFS is not
likely going to take on this task.> Andy <I wish I had
better news for you! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical
Warfare -- 12/7/07 Brenda, <Andy> Without breaking down
my entire tank, there is no way that I am going to get this BTA
out of the tank. His foot is wedged deep between the bottom of my
tank and a piece of LR. It just isn't going to happen.
<Try aiming a powerhead at it (without blasting it). Maybe
you'll get lucky and it will move on its own. Can you see the
anemones foot from underneath the tank? Is it attached to the
glass? If so, possibly something cold (soft ice pack) from
underneath, along with the powerhead may irritate the foot enough
to make it move. It is a long shot, but worth a try. If this
doesn't work, there really is no other option other than
tearing the tank apart. Letting it die is not an option in my
opinion.> Believe it or not, the Clown was just a tiny sucker
when I got her--dwarfed by the BTA. And as I said in a previous
email, when healthy, the BTA is actually quite large--double if
not triple the size of the Clown. <Yes, I am aware of that,
but circumstances have changed drastically.> The one thing I
totally forgot to do, and which I will do Saturday, is take my
water to the LFS. Thanks again for all your time/help. Andy
<You're Welcome! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical
Warfare -- 12/7/07 Brenda, <Andy> I've read many
times on WWM that "allowing an animal to die is never an
option". With all due respect to the love that we all have
for our animals, I don't necessarily agree that allowing an
animal to die is always "wrong" and is never an
"option". <I am not convinced that your anemone
could not live a long healthy life if it were given the proper
environment.> In fact, under appropriate circumstances, it may
even be the right option. Rather, in deciding to entirely break
down a large tank to save one animal, I think one needs to
consider the incredible amount of stress that such action would
place on all the other livestock and the possibility that, in
saving one animal, you may kill others. <I am fully aware of
the stress involved in tearing a tank apart. I can assure you
that a dead anemone, can crash your entire system quickly,
leaving you with a total loss. I did recommend the lesser of the
two evils here.> In addition, in my particular situation, one
needs to consider whether you will actually be able to dislodge
the anemone without severely injuring it in the process.
<Extreme caution is always required when handling anemones.
However, it is not an impossible task.> Add to all of that the
stress placed on the fish keeper, his or her available facilities
(e.g., ability to move and hold healthy livestock while breaking
down the tank, etc.), and any number of other factors. <When
you purchase any animal, you are ultimately responsible for their
care. This animal did not ask to be removed from the ocean.>
My tank is large, heavy and sits on an oak stand. I can't see
or access the bottom of the tank. The BTA's foot is wedged
deep between the glass bottom and a large piece of live rock. I
honestly do not believe that I could physically get this anemone
out of this crevice without tearing its foot. The power head idea
may work, though. <If you can see the foot, or have a general
idea where it is, aim the powerhead in that direction.> As
with everything in life, there are no absolutes, there is never
only one "right" way to do things, and there is no
"single" moral compass that we all must follow. We all
love our animals, or we wouldn't be in the hobby. Some
hobbyist obviously are more caring/thoughtful than others, but I
honestly believe that very few of us go out and spend thousands
of dollars on a display and thousands of hours of hard work only
to take a "I don't care about my animals" attitude.
I certainly do not want to see my BTA die, and I am certainly
committed to keeping my livestock healthy and happy and to nurse
them back to health when they are sick. <You are correct,
there are no absolutes. However, given a proper environment and
proper care, they won't get sick. The lack of lighting issue
was mentioned to you back in early or mid October. Nearly two
months have gone by. You stated that upgrading the equipment was
not an option at this time. Sufficient lighting, double checking
your water parameters with another source, removing the clownfish
for a month or two, or finding a new home, may save this
creatures life. That my friend is the 'single' moral
thing to do.> Hopefully things will work out for my BTA. <I
truly hope so too!> Andy <Good luck to you! I hope that
someday you are able to send me an e-mail telling me that the
anemone is thriving. Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical
Warfare, -- 12/8/07 Brenda, <Andy> I hereby crown you
the Angry Crew Member. <You are sadly mistaken here. I am not
angry, but I am disappointed in your lack of willingness to
satisfy this animals needs.> The WWM Crew frequently requests
that posters read their e-mails twice to make sure that the
spelling, grammar, etc. is correct. <Yet I'm still fixing
yours!> In the same vein, I ask you to save your responses for
12 hours and then come back and read them again to make sure you
really want to hit "send". <I answer when time
allows, and will continue to do so.> The only reason I am
dignifying your tone/comments is that I celebrated the holidays
with our friends tonight and I have a few beers in me. <Is
your drug altered state of mind supposed to be funny, insulting
or threatening? It is not welcome here!> I have news for
you--long before October, long before you were involved in my BTA
issue, even before I bought my BTA, I asked two reputable local
fish stores about the suitability of my lighting system with a
BTA, and each of them stated that my T5 lighting would be fine.
<How is that working out for you?> In fact, I even posed
the question to WWM and RMF (if memory serves) stated that my T5
lighting system should be sufficient, that the BTA would likely
find its "spot" in my tank and that I would know soon
enough by its movement, etc. whether it was happy. It's been
6 or 7 months . . . <The words 'likely' and
'should' are key words here, and 'soon enough'
has now passed. Providing Bob with the correct information on
your lighting would have been more helpful. You did not know if
your T-5 lighting system had individual reflectors or not. In
fact you did not understand what individual reflectors were. I
explained this to you.> This is a 10-day old problem. <No,
the problem started the day you purchased the anemone and placed
it in your tank without researching their requirements.> When
I asked you previously about my lighting, my BTA was seemingly in
fine health, eating, large, and happy. <Perhaps a refresher is
needed: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/spgidf7.htm > I asked you
BECAUSE I was being proactive by trying to get as much
info/opinion as possible. While I respect your opinion, it is not
universally shared. <I have spent many hours researching and
caring for anemones. The information that I provided to you is
the best available to date.> Define "proper
environment" and "proper care". Is it lighting? Is
it food? Is it luck? <There are many factors involved. This
information was previously provided to you. It is also posted
many times on WWM. 'Luck' is not the answer when
providing long term care for this delicate creature.> You
don't know the answer, and you've admitted to me as much.
<My statement in my first e-mail regarding this issue:
'The anemone appears healthy. If you have individual
reflectors on your T-5s, I would leave things alone.'> If
my lighting is so bad, why has my BTA remained in the same spot
for 7 months and not moved to the top of my LR so that it can be
as close to the light as possible? <It may not have the energy
to move. It clearly doesn't even have the energy to eat.>
Why has its color improved? <I have not seen this. Again, this
is based on your description.> Don't lecture me about my
responsibilities. I have spent countless hours researching WWM,
books, articles, etc. <This is not a lecture, but a repeat of
the hundreds of posts already on WetWebMedia.> I have spent
thousands of dollars on supplies, equipment, etc. to ensure that
my pets have a good environment. <A million dollars invested
in the wrong equipment won't help.> My wife thinks I live
in my basement as it is. I'm not the Baltimore Aquarium, for
God's sake. I don't have 30 tanks waiting to house my
fish and inverts while I rescue an animal. <You have a 110
gallon tank here. Do the math! You won't need 30 tanks.>
I'm doing the best I can here, by writing you as soon as I
see a problem, by feeding, by testing water, etc. <No, not the
best, just what you are willing to do, and you are not
considering the animal's life. Writing won't help much
unless you actually act.> That's what's moral.
<Obviously we don't agree here.> I fully intend to take
a sample to my LFS. <Is a good choice, should have been done
already.> I don't know what your day job is, but mine
doesn't involve sitting at home with hours of free time on my
hands to run off <to> the LFS whose hours don't always
match up with my schedule. <My day job is not your
business.> It will get done tomorrow. And, what if my water
checks out fine? What then? <Does upgrading your lighting,
removing the clownfish, chemical warfare, correcting your water
parameters sound familiar?> What if the BTA is simply dying?
<Anemones don't just 'simply' die without cause.
They can out live both of us if given the proper environment.>
I just put down my dog. She was 15. I could have spent thousands
of dollars on surgery, but the vet said she probably wouldn't
make it through the surgery and, even if she did, there was a
good possibility that she would die anyway. He said it was just
her time. <May she rest in peace! So it must be the
anemone's time too?> Sometimes things just happen, and all
the water changes, and MH lighting, and food, and isolation
won't change a thing. <I'm not sure where you are
getting your information here, but it is incorrect in this
case.> Clearly there is something wrong with my BTA. <Oh
yes! Clearly!> I will do all in my power to figure out what
that is and hopefully remedy it. <It has been figured out for
you. I have listed the remedy. It won't fix itself.> I
honestly do not want my BTA to die or to foul my tank. I have
invested too much time and money to want that to happen.
<Perhaps a little more time and money will fix the
situation.> I thank you kindly for all of your insight and
help. Happy Holidays. <Andy, when you do sober up please know
that I will no longer be assisting you. Brenda>
Re: BTA Health... effective
communication 12/9/07 Brenda, <Mmm, no,
BobF this time> You don't have to assist me anymore, but I
need to set the record straight because you aren't reading.
<Have just reviewed this corr. Here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/btadisf6.htm > You seriously have
issues. <...?> Threatening? Don't be ridiculous or a
jerk. <......?> Nothing in my post could be construed as
threatening. Funny? A good assessment? Yeah, those two. Maybe
it's just your email mannerism, but my problem with you is
that you come across as a holier than thou, know-it-all jerk (and
I have seen this in many other responses from you to others,
including one in which you scolded a poster by making a reference
to your dying grandfather-- your day job is no one's
business, but your grandfather is?). <Take care here my
friend... this is neither pertinent, nor proper> I will ignore
your "sober up" and "drug induced" remarks
(as well as your typos that were in your earlier
responses--people who live in glass houses . . .). They are
wholly inappropriate based on an incorrect reading of my post. I
was simply in a good mood. You have made these grand statements
about how I failed to do my research, how I neglected to tell Bob
about my lighting, how I am unwilling to buy a different lighting
system, how I am unwilling to take the steps necessary to help my
anemone, etc. They are all just plain wrong. You are right, I
willingly misrepresented my lighting system to Bob when I told
him that I had the "Current Nova Extreme T5 HO lighting
system." I have used this same description with others as
well. You guys are the fish experts, which is why we write. Even
though this is an extremely popular and common unit, I guess I
should have known that no one knew that it didn't have
individual reflectors (and known to even ask the question/know
the difference!). I take exception to your comment that I failed
to do research. First, I did do research before I purchased the
BTA. I read WWM, I read CMA, I researched other sites, and I
asked the industry. Apparently you want me to take a college
course. Many people successfully keep anemones using T5
lighting--this is evidenced by hundreds of posts on WWM and
elsewhere. Show me a site other than your posts which states
"if you're going to use T5 lighting with anemones, you
must use individual reflectors--that Nove Extreme system just
won't work." If (1) the manufacturer's description,
(2) the retailer's description, and (3) two separate LFSs all
indicate that the fixture is appropriate, and RMF doesn't
mention anything about individual reflectors after I described my
situation, why in the world would I think to ask the question?
What more research could I have done? You just need to be right
today, that's all. <For some/whatever record, reflectors
can/do help to focus, re-direct considerable amounts of light
energy> Also, I didn't say I wasn't willing to upgrade
lighting--I said it was less than a year old and expensive, and I
hated to trash it if I didn't have to. You suggest reflectors
or MH, someone else suggests swapping in 14000K bulbs the next
time I replace, someone else says my T5s are fine. Clearly a
consensus, and I can understand how you could think that I am a
totally irresponsible, uninformed hobbyist. <Mmm, I don't
see/read Brenda as coming across, stating this> As for the 30
tank comment, I guess you don't recognize hyperbole when you
see it. FYI, my water checked out fine except phosphates were a
little high (0.2) and iodine levels were extremely low to
non-existent, which is odd because I do weekly water changes. The
LFS stated that these two factors could definitely be the cause
of my BTA's refusal to eat. I have taken chemical steps to
fix these issues and will try to figure out what could be causing
my phosphates. I have also been able to get my BTA to eat thawed
mysis shrimp the last 2 night--I don't know why it won't
touch the silversides. <I encourage you to use tongs rather
than placing your hands in the system for any period/length of
time> I look forward to working with a calmer, less judgmental
Crew member the next time around. Andy <It is my opinion from
reading the corr. here that your Premnas IS much too large, is
over-bullying this Entacmaea. Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marclncompfaqs.htm and that this Anemone
is indeed in other ways in a less-than ideal setting in terms of
light, other Cnidarian presence, foods/feeding... Please read
here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
and the linked files above. I think you should seek your free
input elsewhere Andy... at least until which time you can be/are
civil. I count myself a tolerant person, but will not allow such
rudeness as this missal... Bob Fenner>
For Brenda/Bob... BTA hlth., more impt.ly, WWM
and tolerance... a/the human cond., beh. patterns, consequences
and politics 12/30/07 Dear Brenda and Bob, <Andy>
I sent an e-mail to Bob's hotmail account a few weeks ago,
but I'm not sure that address is functional so I thought it
best to send an e-mail through WWM (and I wanted Brenda to hear
me out too). So . . . now that I've had a chance to think
about things . . . I have realized a few things, not the least of
which is that you don't bite the hand that feeds you. WWM is
a wonderful, one-of-a-kind website. There is nothing for
hobbyists that parallels WWM on the web. I am very glad I found
it, although I wish I had done so before I got back into the
hobby. That said, I wanted to apologize to Brenda for my
responses to her e-mails relating to the health of my BTA.
Whether my perception of her e-mail "tone" was right or
wrong, I know that you guys do this for free, because you love
the hobby, and that, as I was looking to her for free help, I
should have used a little bit more restraint in my responses to
her. <Agreed> E-mail is impersonal and, as such, no matter
in what context or forum e-mail is used, a sender's
"attitude"/tone is often misinterpreted by the
recipient. I think this potential is especially likely in less
formal settings like (no disrespect intended) chat forums and the
like. In my line of work, where client perception is everything,
the manner in which an e-mail is likely to be interpreted is
something of which I try to be constantly cognizant before I hit
"send". <A good stance, point of view> To this
end, I almost always re-read my e-mails a few times before I send
them to make sure that they says and mean what I want them to say
and mean. In retrospect, I should have used similar judgment in
responding to Brenda and either toned things down or simply not
responded at all. <You are wise here> I think the e-mail
exchange between Brenda and me was a victim of such unintended
interpretations. Although I honestly believe that nothing in my
e-mails to Brenda could have been, or should have been, construed
as rude or uncivil, I understand that "beauty is in the eye
of the beholder", and I apologize to Brenda and you if
either of you perceived my "tone" to be less than
grateful. <I will accrue this msg. with the rest... To me...
there were overtly rude statements> I know you both realize
that we don't live in a perfect world, that we all have
"other" lives requiring other commitments (like work,
children, paying bills, etc.), that we live in houses that impose
constraints on our set-ups and ability to deal with problems,
that our wives don't always approve of turning basements into
the National Aquarium, etc., and that, sometimes, some things are
just not practical or practicable. I am very aware of the
responsibilities that I took on when I decided to keep marine
animals but, as with everything in life, there will always be
limits as to what is possible in a given situation. When
you're worried about your animals/investment and are faced
with a touchy situation--when you know what your limits are and
have tried to articulate them--it's difficult to listen to
criticism. I honestly felt that Brenda's comments to me were
someone brusque, but be that as it may I realize that she was
simply giving me a dose of reality. <Mmmm, yes> I hope that
Brenda and you will accept my apology and that you will remove me
from the "black list". <We have no such list/s...
nor have I ever, or will "block" people... Childish. I
only hope to urge others to civil discourse. Realize that we all,
including myself are not paid, are volunteers, are
"mere" humans as well... Earnestly interested in aiding
others... on an informal, ongoing basis... NOT perfect, certainly
NOT doing this work as a "job"...> As an
aside/update, as a result of Brenda's comments I decided to
upgrade my lighting to a unit with 2x250W HQI and 4x65W pure
actinic PCs. Although my BTA is not entirely back to normal, I
believe (and hope) that it is on the mend, as it has stopped
moving around the tank and has become more full since I replaced
the lighting (I used the screen technique discussed on WWM to
acclimate my system to the new lighting). I tried to remove it to
my QT, but I wasn't successful and didn't want to damage
it. On a good note, my clown has pretty much left it alone. And,
on the upside, my mushrooms, tree corals and Xenia have NEVER
looked better/healthier--they are much more full--and I am very
glad I upgraded. Andy <I am very glad to see/read of your
improvements and benefitted livestock. Bob Fenner>
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Going, going...
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