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FAQs on Bulb, Bubble Tip/Rose Anemone Health Diagnosis

Related Articles: Bubble Tip, Rose Anemones, Entacmaea quadricolor, Use in Marine Systems by Bob Fenner, Bubble Tip Anemones by Jim Black, Recent Experiences with BTA's by Marc Quattromani, Anemones, Cnidarians, Colored/Dyed Anemones,

Related FAQs: BTA Disease 1, BTA Disease 2, BTA Disease 3, BTA Disease 4, BTA Health 5, BTA Health 6, BTA Health 7, BTA Health 8, BTA Health 9, BTA Health 10, BTA Health 11, BTA Health 13,
FAQs on BTA Disease by Category: Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Social (e.g. Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments
& E. quad. FAQ 1, E. quad FAQ 2, E. quad. FAQ 3, E. quad FAQ 4, E. quad FAQ 5, BTA ID, BTA Compatibility, BTA Selection, BTA Behavior, BTA Systems, BTA Feeding, BTA Reproduction/Propagation,

Not staying inflated, moving around, sometimes splitting in two... and an open mouth are signs of a stressed anemone

New Print and eBook on Amazon:  

Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Rainbow BTA not doing well after tangling with Bristleworm     5/1/17
I have a 29 gallon,
<Mmm; large Indo-Pacific Anemones need (much) more room than this... Too unstable.
..>
with 165w full spectrum led, 8 month old tank with a RBTA, one clown, one Firefish, one cleaner shrimp, one peppermint shrimp,
<Shrimps may be eaten by the Anemone in time; as well as the Firefish.>
frogspawn,
<Incompatible... too allelopathogenic w/ the Anemone>

a small maxima clam, scan,
<? Acan?>
pulse and Sinularia. Everything is doing well except the BTA.
<Losing; per the statements above>
One day about a month ago I woke up to find some bristles stuck in her. She was deflated, disc shaped, I removed the bristles and hasn't reinflated
since. She is getting smaller and eating less each day. We try to feed her krill and shrimp but she isn't really interested.
<... how small are the pieces?>
Now she has moved about a half inch closer to the light and will react a small amount when the lights are on.
Nitrates 0,
<.... sigh; all chemosynthetic life NEEDS some N, P, K...>
nitrites 0, ammonia 0, ph 8.4, temp 76.2. Is there anything I can do for her?
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
and all the linked files above. You've set yourself up for failure here; do educate yourself>
Thanks!
Jill
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

bleached anemones and lighting... Nine megs of pix; photography-revelation      1/28/15
Hey guys, just wanted to send a quick note to you guys and thank you for your website. I recently ran into an issue however and wanted to share my experience. So first off some background about my tank.
125 gallon Reef Ready custom tank and stand with built in dual stand overflow and a 50 gallon sump/refugium Orbital Current LED lighting with Ramp controller Two Hydor Koralia power heads, a 3 and a 4 Reef octopus XP3000 Skimmer PH 8.0Salinity 1.025Ammonia, nitrites, nitrate, all 0 ppm
<Essential nutrient>
100lbs liverock various fish RBTA
I had just recently purchased a RBTA for my tank and when it arrived it was very very small. Less than an inch across fully extended. After doing the  normal acclimation process for it and placing it in the tank on the liverock. It chose a comfy spot about three inches from where I placed it and settled in. It has been in my tank for about two weeks now and has opened up and was showing great signs of health. Eating well, lots of tentacle movement and extension, the whole bit. I started to get worried when it seemed like it looked a little pale in my tank. I wasn't sure how long it really looked that way maybe from the moment I placed it in the tank. So I started doing research on bleached anemones. Paid very close attention to pictures of what that looked like, and asked advice from a few people on local reefing forums here in my area. I worked myself into a frenzy over this idea that my anemone was bleached and I needed to do something about it and keep vigilant with feeding and other recommended steps to nurse it back to health. I had taken a picture of the anemone and sent it to a few people and all agreed that my anemone looked bleached and this was a critical time. The first picture is what I sent, and received confirmation of a bleached anemone diagnosis from several "experts". For more than three days I wracked my brain over my bad luck. Including right up until an hour or so before writing this note. Then it dawned on me...
The camera I had been using had the flash turned off from the last time I used it. I turned it back on and took another picture of it with the blue turned down to 10%. The second picture shows the actual anemones coloration and overall health. The blue and white mix lighting each at 100% was playing games with my camera's color saturation and was skewing my viewpoint of the anemone, and apparently everyone else's as well.
<Well; photography... is... about controlling light>
So there really never was anything wrong with my anemone at all. I allowed myself to be fooled by the camera and my own eyes inability to properly discern the anemones true coloration due to the over saturation of certain wavelengths of light being emitted by the blue in my lighting.
So long story short.... Lesson learned. Just thought I would pass this information along and hope that it helps someone else to properly diagnose whether an anemone is actually bleached or not. Never trust a single picture and sometimes even your own eyes to give accurate information. I see tons of pictures of bleached anemones online all the time, now the
first question I will ask if I am ever trying to help is, was the flash on your camera turned on when you took the picture? What percentage of blue was your lighting set to when the picture was taken.
<You've "traded" (filtered, screened) one part (bandwidth) of visible EMR for another...>
Have a great day... Keep up the good work with the site.
Steve McQueen
<Still bleached, but thanks for sharing. Bob Fenner>
 

URGENT BTA not doing well... no useful data 9/25/11
Our green bubble tip anemone has taken a seemingly fast downward turn. the last couple of days he has been 'pooping,' with his mouth open and brown stuff coming out. We felt that he has just been eating small amounts of whatever he could catch in the tank.
<... this specimen is very close to being dead>
Last night and today, all of his tentacles are mostly retracted and his mouth is open. He is very small right now and is practically upside down. Also, there are white 'stringy' bits waving around in the water flow -- this are mostly from his digestive system, but cannot tell for sure that that is the case fro all of them.
He is however still holding on to the rock, and I do see brown excrement near his mouth.
Please see the attached photos.
<Seen>
I am concerned for him, but need some advice on weather <stormy inside> he is just unhappy at the moment or needs to be removed. I don't want to remove him, if he has a chance to be okay, but certainly don't want to poison my other livestock. Sigh.
Unfortunately, I do not have a suitable quarantine for invertebrates at the moment. I do have a bucket of saltwater and power head standing by though.
Thank you for your help,
Guy
<What? Where's the boeuf Guy? You know, info. re the system, tankmates, history... water quality tests results... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/BTADis10.htm
and work your way up through the other nine BTA Hlth FAQs files... Bob Fenner>

Anemone Question/BTA/Health 9/20/09
Hey, its me again lol
<James here with LOL.>
I have been looking through your anemone information but I am not finding exactly what I am looking for. I picked up what was labeled as a Bubble Tip Anemone, it was very healthy looking, had a good foot hold in the sand in my LFS, all they have is sand, but I read that BTA like rock. (I had been watching this particular anemone for about 3 weeks before I bought it) I tossed him <in> the tank (not literally) and he moved down under a rocky ledge and seemed fine. Later that night he purged himself like I figured he/she/it would since it went from one system to another. This is my question/concern.
It has not come back out of the rock work to sit facing disk up. I have been peeking through the rock from the side of my tank and I noticed that it is fully opened,(not stretched as if it were trying to get more light) mouth closed tightly, tentacles are all inflated, really good solid foot hold and from the look of it it looks really healthy but it is vertical not horizontal.
<??? Should be vertical/upright.>

I moved a small piece of LR (which exposed more it's surface to direct light) so my clown could get to it because she was trying to basically squeeze through the rock work and I did not want her to hurt herself and she has been in and out of it ever since.(Which is kind of odd because it is a black false Perc and they are not known to host BTA's,
<They can/will.>
but she also loves my pistol shrimp/goby combo so much that the shrimp doesn't even see her as a threat anymore, he just does what he does while she hovers above the burrow rubbing on the goby who also does not seem bothered... strangest thing I've ever seen lol) All of my parameters are perfect, salinity is a little high, 1.025.
<Not high.>
The anemone is 9-12 inches from the light and I have 145 watts of PWC lighting <PC?> ( 2 separate lighting systems that equal 145) which is stronger that the T5's the LFS has on their 55gal tank.(I asked) I have always seen anemones disk up which makes sense due to their lighting needs but mine seems perfectly happy to be vertical instead of horizontal. <?> About 1/3 to 1/2 of the anemone is out of the rock getting direct light. Is that normal anemone behavior?
<Give this anemone some time to adapt, light acclimation may come into play here with your more intense lighting system.>

I know they tend to just do what they want to and will find their comfort zone/s but I just assumed that it would be visible if it was healthy also, it is not very sticky to the touch which I did not notice until it opened up in my tank of course but I target fed it a few Mysis on phytoplankton and it stuck to the tentacles well. Is this a bad sign?
<No.>
I think I have covered everything...don't want to write an essay lol.
<Give the anemone a little more time to "settle in". I also would not feed until such time. Have you read here and linked files above?
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm>
thanks again for your help
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Troubled bubble tip- Bubble Tipped Anemone Lacking Light 4/29/08 Hi Crew, <Yunachin here.> Hopefully you can give me some promising information. I have a small bubble tip anemone that has been happy in my tank for a little over a year. This past week, the ballast in my light went out and I only have 36 watts on my tank until the replacement gets here on Friday. In the past few days, it has begun to detach itself from the rock and that seems a little worrisome. Would this be in regards to the lack of light? <Yes. Anemones will position themselves to get the best light or avoid too much light.> I will have the new ballast and 72 watts back on by Friday, but I wasn't sure if this is the problem, or something else. I have attached a picture that shows the foot detachment from the rock. It seems healthy otherwise, but if there is something I can do to prevent any further stress, then I wanted to get ahead of the game. <Everything looks good. I am sure when you replace the light that everything will be back to normal. It may move a bit but it looks healthy otherwise.> Thanks in advance for all the help!! Thanks!!!!
<You're welcome. --Yunachin>
Rachael
There is a Euphyllia to the right... RMF
Anemone Health and Systems -- 4/24/08 My BTA is deflating in a very alarming way since Saturday morning. I understand they can deflate to defecate but this is not it. I've had the BTA for 3 months now and she has never acted this way. She is deflating with mouth wide open. <This is not good!> I can see her cavity empty. She is releasing a very thick gel (no poo) She will remain like this for the next 3-4 hours and come back to life. When she does, especially during night time, she gets very enlarged (over inflated) tips bubbled up, not normal for her. <It is not uncommon for this species to have bubbled tips some times and not at other times.> The water parameters are PH 8.0-8.2, Ammonia 0, Nitrates 0, the hard Nitrates 0.5 (just fed 2 hrs ago) the KH 10. The GH text never works for me but today is the schedule water change. There are a few factors to consider so I need your help. First, I did a Blackout on 4/12 for 40 hours to control algae bloom. <What is causing the algae bloom?> After that my largest Clownfish changed behavior. He is the only clownfish that was purchased at a store. He (or should I say She) is projecting dominance towards my other clownfish. These acts of dominance are staged on the anemone. Can the clownfish be roughing up the BTA? <Yes.> Could she be repelling the fish? <It looks to be starving and slightly bleached. What have you been feeding?> On Friday I moved my small Hammer coral 5 inches down from the BTA who sits in the top of a cave. The BTA did not show any signs of harm or stress. See April 18 pic. <You have only sent April 23 pictures.> On that day I also change the power head that is pointed in the direction of the BTA (on 15min intervals). It is a stronger power head than the last one. <Be careful with powerheads. I don't recommend there use in a tank with anemones. If your anemone starts to wander, which is a likely event, it will be shredded.> Because she looked fine around 5pm, I decided to meet with my clownfish breeder to get more fish. I had 4, one died and soon after the aggression began. <You will have aggression with more than one pair of clownfish. Only one pair per tank unless you have a system of a few hundred gallons or more. Even with a few hundred gallons, there is no guarantee that the clownfish will get along.> That Saturday night I also purchased some frags a Xenia and a Frogspawn from the breeder. When I came home to add the new species the BTA looked normal. I positioned the Frogspawn 3 inches from the Hammer coral who immediately released thin streaks of gel. <How did you acclimate?> It was late at night and I didn't pay any attention to it and went to bed. Next morning the corals look great but the anemone didn't. After finding out the chemical war I probably initiated between the two corals, I moved the Frogspawn to the other end of the tank. Still, the BTA shriveled up and released gel the next day. Can the corals be causing the problem? <They are not helping.> The BTA is fed Mysis and little shrimps. <You may want to try small portions of Silversides soaked in Selcon.> By accident we fed the anemone 4 times last week (boyfriend forgot to check the feeding calendar I keep on the fridge) I normally place the shrimp on the tentacles next to the mouth and she picks it up if desired. Apparently she desired all 4 times. <Is there anything stealing its food?> To add to it...On Monday night my mother in-law got me a Sebae Anemone. It is sitting in the opposite side of the tank, attached and looking great. I don't know if my tank is big enough to keep both. <It is not recommended to keep different species of anemones in the same tank.> I will get a smaller tank to keep it separate if needed. <This tank needs to be a well established environment for an anemone. Six months to one year of age is the recommendation.> I have a 120g tank that has been running since Nov 07, skimmer, sump, 3 power heads and VHO light system. <Your tank wasn't ready for an anemone. This is adding to the problems. I recommend using Metal Halide Lighting or some T-5 with individual reflectors on a tank of this depth. This may be part of the anemones problem.> The BTA was added to the tank 3 months ago Hammer Coral in tank for 3 weeks Neon green Nephthea in tank for 1 month Frogspawn Coral and Xenia and a small frag of Porites coral were added on Saturday night Sebae anemone, blue hippo tang and new small frag of pink polyps were added Monday night (gift from the in-laws). 7 Clownfish (one died before the blackout) <Yikes! That is a lot of clownfish! Five of them need to find new homes.> Yellow Tang Blue Hippo Tang Snowflake Eel...don't ask :) <You really need to research your live stock before you purchase and add to your system.> I added pics from this morning changes 10am and 2pm. I will appreciate ANY advice you can give specially in the landscaping area. <More live rock would help. You don't have nearly enough for a 120 gallon system.> As you can see, it's very difficult for me to plan the landscape based on species, temperament, light and water flow. <This becomes easier in time with a lot of research. More information on anemones found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemsysfaqs.htm  > Thank you
<You're welcome! Brenda>

 

Re: E. quadricolor, BTA, Hiding, Acclimation -- 3/16/08 Hi Brenda, <Hello Akila!> Thanks for your reply. <You're welcome!> I add the baking soda just to maintain the pH as mentioned in Dr. Bob Fenner's Marine Aquarist book under maintaining pH (p.130). My pH is within the safe limits I guess. <Just be careful not to add too much too fast. Anemones do not do well with a sudden change. Add it gradually.> And yes I use the Compact Florescent lights - CFL. Each has 125W, 1250 Im, 6500K & 50/60 Hz. I have 4 lights that totals up to 500W & 5000. This is being used on a tank that is 27 inches deep, 37 inches long and 18 inches wide. Do you think it is adequate??? <Yes, I believe it is, especially if the anemone has enough rock that it can climb to higher levels if it needs to.> I keep my temperature at 25C - 26C (78.8F) and the salinity at 0.024. <Increase salinity to 1.026 gradually by topping off daily with pre-mixed saltwater.> As I live in Ceylon (Sri Lanka) I bought the anemone directly from a collector and probably it was collected couple of days back. When I saw the anemone it was in a small tank with starfish and the place was pretty dark and the anemone was a little bit shrunken up. After directly putting it to the tank, only a day later the anemone got 3 times bigger than it actually was. Is this a good sign or a bad sign??? <Anemones will shrink to expel waste and to acclimate themselves to their environment. If this is happening often, it is a bad sign. However, since this anemone has only been in your system a few days, I don't see reason to be alarmed.> And I do not keep any corals except some dead ones. <Okay.> Today half of the anemone came out but the other half was still under the rock. The entire day it was like that. During the day time the anemone got real big on the side that came out and the tentacles were long and reaching upwards. But at night it again went to hiding and also became 3 times smaller. Why is this change in size??? Is it a sign of bad health??? Or bad conditions??? Shall I take it out from there and close that hole with some stones. <No.> Because I can't even feed the anemone when its hiding as I can't reach its month opening. <I don't recommend touching the mouth.> Is it possible to keep some bits of shrimp meat on the tentacles. Is it possible to feed it like that??? <You bet! This is the best way to feed in my opinion. Hopefully the anemone is healthy enough to be able to hold on to the food. If not, place food near the mouth, without touching the anemone.> I'll get some pictures of the anemone tomorrow and mail you. <Great!> I'll also buy another pH test kit along with Calcium and Alkalinity kits and send that data to you also if the kits are available at the LFS. Thanks, Best regards. Akila <You're welcome! Brenda>

Hi Brenda, <Hello Akila!> I have attached some pictures. <It appears that you have two anemones! This would explain why it went into hiding. Stress! Anemones do split in two when they are stressed, resulting in two anemones. Collection is enough to stress an anemone enough that it will clone itself. More information here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonereprofaqs.htm  > I have another problem. I tested my water for dKH and Calcium. I have 15 - 16dkh & 370 - 380mg/l. Can this be right??? <It could be. What test kits are you using? Are you adding anything for calcium and magnesium? For now, stop adding additives. There is more information here regarding Calcium and Alkalinity: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm > Best regards, Akila <Brenda>

E. quadricolor, BTA, Hiding, Acclimation -- 3/14/08 Dear Mr. Bob Fenner <Hello Akila, Brenda here this time!> I have wrote to you a lot of times and you guys have been a real help to me over the years. <Good to hear!> I appreciate your advice with regards to what I am facing now. Some details of my 80G tank would be, I have 1 large canister filter (works as a refugium for me), 2 power filters (1500lph each), protein skimmer, UV sterilizer 5W, Compact Florescent lighting 6500K - 400W, <Are you sure this is compact florescent lighting?> & Chiller. My pH is 8.2-8.4(can't figure out the exact color from the chart), Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate <10. I do a 20% water change every month. <I recommend 10% weekly.> I also add 4 - 5 teaspoons of baking soda every month along with the water change to maintain my pH. <Are you testing before adding this? Are you gradually adding the baking soda?> I don't have fish in my tank at the moment due to some problems with lifted temperature that finally led me to buy a chiller. The tank is cycled and I ran it for 2 years with no problems. I currently have 3 tube worms, grape macro algae (I forgot the name of the algae), and some sails. After adding the BTA (Rose) 2 days ago it is hiding under a cavity inside my rock work. It did not come out for a day. I read a lot of FAQs on your site and learned that this could be normal until it gets settled in but is there any other parameters or something else I need to check. <Yes, what is your temperature and salinity? How did you acclimate this anemone?> Do I need to get any other equipment or something to make it feel more comfortable? <Do you know any history on this anemone? Was it recently shipped? What kind of lighting was it kept under previously?> I don't understand why it is hiding inside a rock. <I wouldn't be overly concerned just yet. This anemone may be acclimating itself to its new environment. Placing an anemone into a new environment is stressful. > Thought they liked bright lighting??? <They do, but I'm not convinced you have extremely powerful lighting.> Can the tube worms be a problem??? <No. Do you have any coral in the tank? If so, what?> Also how can I increase the calcium level in my tank. I heard the tube worms like more calcium in the water??? <Your LFS should have the additives you need. I do recommend researching before you start adding chemicals. Here is a good place to start: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm > Thanks in advance for your advice, Best regards, Akila
<You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor 911 -- 1/04/08 I just tested the tank on New Years Day. I use a master reef test kit. <I don't recommend this test kit. I would go with a more reliable product, such as Salifert. In the mean time, take a water sample into a reputable LFS and have your water tested.> My tank is 47 gallon. I started out in a 10 gallon tank and upgraded to the new tank, having been up for about 7 months now. I added the anemone in August and it came from Live Aquaria. <Your tank was not ready for an anemone. It needs an established environment, six months to one year, with one year being best.> It was healthy looking when I got it and for a while after. It has looked this way for close to 3 months. I use compact lighting with a dual actinic and dual daylight. The bulbs are about 7 months old, and I have ordered more. The water parameters are: salinity 1.023, <Your salinity is too low. Gradually bring up to 1.026 by using pre-mixed saltwater as your top off water daily.> Nitrite 0.2, <Needs to be zero.> ph 8.0, Nitrate 50, <Nitrates are much too high, needs to be zero. I suggest a large water change and continue to monitor daily.> Alkalinity is low (added reef buffer) <How low?> ammonia is .25 <Much too high, a large water change should help, but you need to get to the root of the problem.> and the temp is 76. <Temperature is too low; gradually bring up to 79 -- 80.> I added 15 lbs of new rock on new years. <Was it cured?> I also added phosphate control. <Why? What were your phosphate levels? Where does your source water come from, RO, RO/DI, or Tap?> I am still learning my tank, so it is very possible I do not have something right. The size of silverside I have been feeding it is about the size of a pencil eraser. <That is too large of a piece for an anemone in this shape. Try feeding as small of a piece that you can tear off. Foods soaked in Selcon may also help.> I did notice today that the foot is spreading on the rock. I check it sometimes at night and it looks the same as under the lights. I turn on the tank when I get up in the mornings and off when I go to bed. I hope all this information helps. Oh yea, his tank mates are a yellow tang, <A 47 gallon tank is much too small for any tang.> maroon clown, blue damsel (new) several snails and crabs, <I don't recommend crabs, they can be predators.> and a new Condy anemone. <Mixing species of anemones is dangerous and likely deadly.> It lives on another rock across the tank. I hope the pictures help too. <Based on those pictures, your anemone is in very very poor shape, if not already dead. Also, you have Aiptasia anemones, which are no doubt stinging your BTA. A peppermint shrimp may help this, but you may need to protect the anemone from the shrimp while you feed it. I also suggest you be prepared for a large water change in the event that your anemone dies. Having 20 gallons or more available at all times is a good idea. Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor 911 -- 1/04/08
I will try everything you suggested. <Excellent!> Could the nitrate and ammonia level be high because of the addition of the new cured rock I added on New Years Day? <Yes, if the rock was not cured. Since your anemone has been on the decline for a while, the addition of this rock is not the root cause of its poor health. However, you need to get those levels down quickly.> I did test the water the day after I added it. I have been zapping the Aiptasia with Joe's juice. <I would discontinue for now until the anemone is recovered. Peppermint shrimp may help, but you need to get your water parameters up to par.> I added the phosphate control due to some hair algae growth. That is what my LFS recommended. <What were your phosphate levels? I would also discontinue this for now. You don't want to stress the anemone out any more than you have to. You need to get to the root of the phosphate problem. Where is your source water coming from? Have you tested the source water? How are you storing the water? > You mentioned soaking food in Selcon. What is that? I have not heard of it. <Here is a link to Selcon: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=5009&Nty=1&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=All&pc=1&N=0&Ntt=selcon&Np=1  > I will try everything you recommended. <Great! I did not see a protein skimmer listed with your equipment. Are you using one, if so, which one? > Thanks for all your help. Becky <You're welcome! I'll be here to help you along the way! Brenda>

E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues -- 11/14/07 Hello once again! <Hello Ryan, Brenda here> I have yet another question for you. <Not a problem!> It never ends, does it? <No, but this is how we all learn, and why we are here.> Thanks for all your great help so far and hopefully you can help me out with this interesting situation? <I'll try!> I recently moved my bubble tip anemone and its clone to a new tank. The new tank was setup with existing live rock and water, as well as some Chaetomorpha algae. <This is not an instant cycle. This creature needs an established environment, including the sand bed. This takes a minimum of 6 months, one year is best.> Everything has been going well, except the endless walking around the tank. <It is not happy.> Different flow and lights will cause that. <The new tank is likely the cause.> Yesterday I came home from work and found something interesting. The anemones had been fed the day before and looked a little unhappy. <What are you feeding it?> I took a look and found something interesting? I've posted this on three forums and no one has responded, which, in my opinion means no one has an answer? Today the anemones look much happier and the "egg sac" in the attached picture is gone. After I took the picture last night I noticed the tentacle started to tear open but I did not stay up late enough to see if anything was released? I added some carbon and did a water change just in case something in the tank was off. <You need to keep a close eye on your water parameters.> Thanks for looking, Ryan. http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1496.jpg  It is just to the right of the mouth. <Yes, I see this.> Any ideas? <Well, I can tell you, it is not an egg sac. Here is a link to a thread that shows eggs inside of an anemone. The pictures in this thread are amazing. http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic74210-9-1.aspx This is also a good article to read: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/feature.htm  As far as what is going on; it could be a number of things. It looks to me like one of its tentacles has become injured or irritated. What are the tank mates, including fish, corals and invertebrates? Have you noticed anything bothering it? Are there any possibilities that salt accumulated somewhere and dropped into the tank, landing on the anemone? What are your water parameters? How long has this tank been up and running? Did you transfer the sand bed over also? If so, how long did you leave it cycle before adding the livestock? Thanks again. <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues -- 11/15/07 Hi Brenda, thanks for the reply. <Hello Ryan, and you're welcome!> You are not going to like this? <Yikes!> I did the entire change over in one day! <Ouch!> After asking many people if it would be OK if I used existing live rock and water as well as some Chaeto, they all said yes. <No, it is not ok, especially with anemones.> So if this was not OK what can I do now? Water parameters were fine until I fed the anemones, I fed them shrimp, same shrimp I've fed for over a year. My ammonia was a little high the day after and I'm assuming that one or both of the anemones did not eat their "dinner", causing the higher ammonia. <The ammonia spike is caused by the cycle. This is extremely toxic to anemones.> I did a water change to fix the problem, a rather large water change and after that they both looked fine. Here are the water parameters, ammonia 0, nitrite 0 (yes I'm sure), nitrate 0, calcium 400, Alk 10 DKH, salinity 1.025, temp. 79....I think that's it. <I do recommend a salinity of 1.026 for anemones.> The tank has a couple of frags that were attached to the live rock, Montipora and that is it, no other corals or fish....oh other than the one Palythoa hijacker. Please let me know if there is a way I can fix this situation? <I suggest getting the anemones out of there for a while. See if you can find someone local to take it in. If you are starting with a new sand bed, you need to wait a minimum of 6 months. If you transferred the old sand bed, it will take less time, but I can't give you an exact time frame. It could take a few weeks, or even a few months. There are too many variables. You will need to keep checking your water parameters. Once everything has been stable for a while, you can put the anemones back in.> I assure you I did a lot of questioning before I went ahead with this move and everyone said it was fine. Now I need your help, please. I did not check the links yet because I'm in a bit of a rush and trying to catch you today rather than tomorrow. Thanks for your help, Ryan. <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues -- 11/16/07 Thank you Brenda! <You're Welcome!> Sorry to keep this going back and forth with you. <No need to be sorry!> The sand is new, I thought I was saving myself cycling issues by doing this rather than using old "dirty" sand, apparently I was wrong. <Even when using old sand, there will still be a cycle.> I have little trust in others in my area, I work at a LFS but don't want my anemones there because they cram them all in one little tank. <Ouch! I know what you mean! When visiting a LFS, I first look at how they treat their anemones. I can't count how many times I've left feeling sick! I have found very few LFS that provide an adequate environment for this creature.> I don't know anyone else (local) with a tank that would be suited to keep anemones. <Wish I could help, I would gladly take the anemones in for a while if you were local.> So that being said I would prefer to try and fix the problem by myself. I watch things very carefully and hopefully I can pull this off? I have a SPS reef tank that has been doing great for over a year (started it before that). Here's what I've been doing. I'm making 5 gallons of new saltwater per day, letting it rest (with a pump) for a day, adding that to my reef tank, then I take 5 gallons out of my reef tank and change 5 gallons on my anemone tank. <This is a waste of effort in my opinion. You simply can not create an instant cycle. Your new tank needs time to cycle. Dirty water is not the solution. Once your tank has cycled it will still not be an adequate environment for anemones.> Not the best method but hopefully this will get me through this 6 month period? I know you are not going to be all that fond of this idea. <No, I'm not fond at all, neither are the anemones. They need an established environment, no less than 6 months, no short cuts here.> Do you think it is possible to keep my anemones if I continue to do this? <It is a possibility, but not a probability, also not fair to the anemones to be kept in such an environment.> My other option would be to somehow get them back in my reef tank. <This would be my choice, with a slow drip acclimation to reduce added stress.> I would prefer not to lose my corals. That is an option that I would rather not go for. <Were the anemones in the SPS tank previously? Were there problems that made you decide to move them, roaming, etc.? I keep anemones with SPS, and have had no issues. My anemones do not roam, and I keep the SPS away from the anemones. Granted, this is not a guarantee that they won't roam someday. Can you tell me more about your SPS tank? Size, equipment, livestock, water parameters, amount of flow, RO or RO/DI water, is there room for the anemones? I appreciate your help a lot. Please try and see things from my point of view on this. <I do, (and the anemones view) we've all made mistakes.> I am doing my best to keep them happy. I guess I should have emailed you first, before I made the transfer. By the way both anemones look very healthy and happy! <This may not be long term.> Thanks so much, Ryan. <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues... Brenda! Refer Ryan!  -- 11/16/07 Hi Brenda, <Hello Ryan!> Thanks again! <You're welcome!> The anemones were in the SPS tank before but the two used to be one, it split and then both started roaming. <Both are a sign of stress.> They are also very large so their tentacles swaying in the current (lots of flow) were causing problems with my corals and clam. <Yes, that is a problem!> I use RO/DI water, have 4000 gph of flow (90 gallon tank), <That is a lot of flow, likely too much for anemones.> a EuroReef skimmer, Kalk reactor, refugium with a DSB and Chaeto, 500 watts of metal halide lighting (10K), 100+ pounds of live rock, 30 gallon sump, etc. <Nice equipment!!!> My water parameters in the SPS tank are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 1.5, calcium 400, DKH 11, Ph 8.3, temp. 79, SG 1.025-1.026.....I think I got all of those? My SPS tank is packed full of corals and my main concern is the anemones wandering or letting loose of the live rock and floating into a Tunze powerhead. <I don't recommend the use of powerheads with anemones. If you must use them, they need to be covered with something to protect the anemone.> I can provide you a link to a picture to show you my tank so you get a feel for how packed it is. My other thought was putting them in the refugium but then I would have to buy an additional light and most likely keep that light on at the same time my tank lights are on (not sure why I think that?). <I don't know why you think that either. I recommend the refugium light to be on at opposite times of the main tank. Placing the anemones in the sump (with proper lighting) is an option as long as you can be sure the anemones are protected from all pumps. Anemones going through a pump can wipe out an entire system. Without seeing your set up or knowing how much flow is going through it, I really can't recommend it.> I certainly want to keep the anemones happy so I'll do what I need to. I'm also wondering if there would be a safe way to connect the two tanks for a period of 6 months. I cannot drill the tank, it's brand new acrylic and cost enough that I would not feel comfortable putting a temporary hole in it. <I don't blame you. What size/type tank is your new one? How close is it to the old one? What lighting do you have on it? Do you have any old tanks around that you could temporarily connect to the established tank, a 20 gallon or so? I do suggest running carbon, and frequent water changes when mixing coral and anemones. The initial problems you experienced may have been caused by chemical warfare, along with too much flow.> I really appreciate all your help. Here's a picture so you can see what I'm dealing with. http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1508.jpg <Yes, a bit crowded for anemones.> I guess the other option would be to cage them in with some egg crate until they are attached and happy? <There are no guarantees that creating a cage will create happiness. I believe there is simply too much flow in your main tank, and possibly chemical warfare. In the mean time, take a cup or two of sand out of your established tank, and start seeding your new tank.> Thanks once again, Ryan. <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues -- 11/17/07 Thanks Brenda! <You're welcome> Wow the longest running WWM FAQ ever....I'm joking. I do have extra tanks but connecting them safely would be an issue. The only way I could do that is to have a pump in the main tank and a pump in the connected tank, both pumping water back and forth, we both know you should not do that. The refugium may work. I have no pumps in the Fuge, just a feed pump from a different area of the sump which supplies clean water and lower flow. I would need to upgrade the lighting but other than that I think that may work. Here's what I'm going to do today. Take some sand out of the refugium, add it to the anemone tank, take a large amount of Chaeto and add that to the anemone tank as well. I am also going to try and add some flow without having a pump directly in the tank with the anemones. I think they miss the flow. Both settled in a very high flow location in my reef tank so maybe that's what they're looking for. <They are suffering from being placed in a non-cycled/non-established tank. It is important that you get them out of there. This is not only very stressful on anemones, but also one of the leading causes of death in captivity.> I'll assume this will be the last email about this, so once again thanks so much for all your help. I'll give you an update in a month or so. Thanks, Ryan. <Good luck to you! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues -- 4/7/08 Hi Brenda, <Hello Ryan! It has been a while! > I hope you're the one who gets this? <Sorry for the delay, I've been out for a few days. > I wanted to let you know everything with the two anemones is going well, no issues at all. It was a little rough at the start but after a month or so everything seemed to cool off. <Keep an eye on them. You are just approaching the 6-month mark. The stress that the move has caused them over the last few months could cause them to rapidly decline if there is even a slight problem. > The anemones have not moved in months and are very happy in their new home. <Good to hear! > I seem to have a bit of a nutrient issue which caused a population of Aiptasia to explode, but other than that everything is going really well. <You'll want to get that under control. Aiptasia can sting BTAs.> I recently bought a used AquaC Remora skimmer, which will help with the nutrient load. <Awesome product! Keep the pump away from the anemones. > I know you thought and insisted this could not be done, but with frequent water changes and careful feeding I seem to have accomplished something most apparently cannot? <My thoughts have not changed. It is very stressful on the anemones, unfair, and often deadly. See the before and after pictures that you submitted below. > I also added 2 black and white clowns (tank bred), which love the anemones! <Adorable clownfish! > Here is a picture of the happy anemones and their happy clowns. http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_2221.jpg <It looks like they have lost quite a bit of color (zooxanthellae) since this picture that you sent me in November: http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1496.jpg This really shows just how stressful the last few months have been on them. If there are no more problems, they should continue to recover.> Thanks for all your help!! You're welcome! Good luck to you! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues -- 4/8/08 <Hello Ryan!> Thanks for the concern and pointing out the color difference to me, but I think I have an explanation of why they looked so bright before? <Okay.> That picture, the one from November was taken when the lights were off using flash and possibly a flashlight. The color from the flash or flashlight is much more yellow than the color from the lights on the tank. The reason I took that picture at that time was because it was the only time the anemone was deflated enough to see the weird egg shaped tentacle. I'm not saying this was a brilliant idea to put the anemones in a new tank and I hope things continue to work out the way they have. <I hope so too. However, this photo http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_2221.jpg leads me to believe this anemone has not completely regained its health. > The lighting they were in before was 500 watts of metal halide and now they are under 130 watts of PC lighting. <What size tank are they in now?> Maybe that caused a difference in color as well? <Lighting does play a role in coloration. However, I'm seeing some white and some areas that look a bit transparent.> They have been eating when I feed, which has been very sparingly so far and appear to be perfectly happy? <Try feeding some small portions of silversides soaked in Selcon, and feeding more often.> I really hope I'm not wrong and this continues to work out? <With an adequate environment, they will continue to improve.> About the skimmer, it's located in a back chamber of the tank; the tank has an internal filtration system so everything is hidden behind the overflow which should prevent any damage to the anemones from pumps. <Great!> Thanks for all your help and if you would like I can give you another update in a month or two? <That would be great!> Thanks again, Ryan <You're welcome! Brenda>

Stressed BTA due to shipping, Entacmaea quadricolor -- 8/19/07 Hello, <Hello Wesley, Brenda here again> I've got a question about my rose BTA. I added it a few days ago to my tank. The first day it expelled some waste then expanded to its current size. After reading through your FAQs I think it is expelling some symbiotic algae. I've attached two pictures to show the change. <Yes, I see, and agree.> The first picture was taken 6hrs after it was placed in the tank and is expelling waste (though it is hard to see). Second picture is day 3 (color is actually more vibrant than it appears). You can see that it has opened up and the tentacles have elongated. Could be that the algae is simply being stretched over a larger area resulting in less coloration. I have noticed that at night when it shrinks down the colors are stronger. <Typical> The open mouth makes me think it is somehow stressed/expelling algae. <An open mouth is a sign of a stressed anemone.  It does appear to have lost some of its zooxanthellae.> I ordered it online, so it did spend an entire day being kicked around by FedEx. <This is likely the cause.  Shipping is very stressful on anemones.  How was the anemone packaged?> Also, my maroon clown has now made the RBTA its home, though she isn't beating it up. <A maroon clownfish with a stressed anemone can cause more harm.  Keep a close eye on it, and be prepared to remove the clownfish.> Tank specs: 50g 2 x 150w 20k HQI (same temp online store kept it under) Ammonia = 0 Nitrite = 0 Nitrate = 0 Alkalinity = 10.5 Calcium = 380 ppm (slowly being raised) PH = 8.1 (slowly being raised with Calcium) <A pH of 8.1 is acceptable.> Salinity = 1.235 (also being raised to target of 1.25) <Slowly bring salinity up to 1.026.  Use saltwater as your daily top off until you reach 1.026.  Where is your magnesium at?  What is the temperature?> Slow = at least a week (hah) I did the drip method acclimation procedure over roughly 3.5 hours. <Perfect!> I haven't started feeding it yet pursuant to Crew member Brenda's advice (thanks!) to wait a few days. Is it bleaching? <It is slightly bleached.  I have seen much worse completely recover.  I have high hopes for this little guy!!!> What should I do if it is? <Start feeding small portions of food such as silversides, lance fish, or Mysis shrimp. Start with portions approximately 1/8 inch every other day.  Don't force it to eat.  If it doesn't want to take the food, try again the next day.  Food soaked in Selcon may also help.  http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/207914/product.web  Keep checking your water parameters and keep up with water changes.  Once it recovers feed two to three times a week, with portions no bigger than the mouth.> Thank you for your help, Wesley <You're Welcome!  I'll keep my fingers crossed!  Brenda>

E. quadricolor, Bubble Tip Anemone Not Fully Inflated, Mixed Species Tank??? -- 7/28/07 Hi there! <Hello, Brenda here!> Well I have a bubble anemone and would just like to have a concern addressed if possible? <I'll try!> My water quality is perfect and lighting is good (in fact all other anemones and inverts are happy and are growing like mad). <All other anemones? Unless the anemones are clones, it is likely the problem.> My bubble anemone just doesn't fully inflate. It rarely deflates. It's open all day long and very occasionally moves around, but not too often, changed positions once in the last 2-3 weeks). <A moving anemone is a sign that it is unhappy. It may be getting stung by a nearby anemone or coral.> My main concern is why does it never fully inflate? It is inflated but not to what I have seen it do before! I would say it is about 3 quarters fully inflated but that is as far as it goes! Any theories? <I need more information. Are the anemones that you keep the same species and clones? If not, I would separate, that is likely the problem. If they are the same species and a clone: What are the other tank mates? I also need actual water parameters, tank size, equipment list, including lighting. How long have you had the anemone? Have you changed anything lately, bulbs perhaps? What do you feed, how often and what sized portions? How long has the tank been set up?> Many thanks, Jamie <You're Welcome! Brenda>

Reef tank with BTA and Sea Star without Live Rock -- 4/7/07 Hi, <Hello, Brenda here>   I tried to find my answer on your FAQs and such, but could not find what I was looking for.  I started a 55 Gallon reef tank with live sand (no live rock). <No live rock?  This doesn't sound like a reef tank.> My water tests have all come out as 0's. I have two tank-raised ocellaris clowns, two small damsel fish, a small orange Linckia, and have added two small bubble tip anemones. This is my first effort with anemones so I don't know what exactly they do when first introduced to the tank. Neither is attaching to anything. They are both sitting on the bottom of the tank. <Please research before you buy an animal.> One seems to be repeatedly puffing up, and then gets smaller. The other has gotten very small and looks to be spewing some slime out of its mouth. Is this what they are supposed to do or are they dying? <Could be expelling waste, but my guess is it is dying.  You have not provided an adequate environment for them.> If they are OK, will they attach to something in the tank on their own or do they need a little guidance? <Your tank needs live rock, for many reasons.  I'm not sure what you are expecting it to attach to.> I have a question about my little sea star as well. It seems to ball up on itself quite a bit. It almost looks like it is inside out. Is this supposed to happen? <Again, it sounds like you have not provided it with an adequate environment.>   I'm new to all this. Please help. <This sounds like a new tank also.  These animals need an established environment, which includes live rock.  It sounds like you are rushing into things.  Please search WWM for the benefits of live rock, and the care requirements for your anemone and sea star.  I suggest you return your anemones and sea star to the LFS until you can provide an established environment for these animals.> Thanks, Mistie <You're welcome!  Brenda>

Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare -- 12/2/07 Dear Crew, <Hello Andy, Brenda here> It's been a while since I rapped at ya. I have a question about the health of my BTA. I have had it for 7 months or so, during which time its color has gone from tan to a deep red. It is paired up with a Gold Stripe Maroon Clown, and they have a good relationship. I feed it about once per week with (I rotate) Mysis, small pieces of table shrimp, and chopped oyster, all soaked in Selcon. It has always readily taken food and remains open and pointed upwards most of the time. I have a 110g display (30" high) with 6x54W T5 HO (4x10000K and 2x460nm actinics) that is on about 12 hours per day (I use a timer). I plan to swap out at least the 4 10000Ks with 14000Ks when I replace my bulbs. The BTA is attached to LR very near the bottom of my tank. Since day 1, it has been in this same location, with minor realignments from time to time. I have previously posted a question to WWM about its position at the bottom of the tank and my lighting, as I was concerned that my lighting might not be enough for it, but the response was to leave things alone if the BTA was happy and doing well. <Yes, I remember. If I'm not mistaken, both James and myself answered your questions. This fixture does not have individual reflectors correct?> Over the last 7-10 days, however, I've noticed that the BTA appears a little wilted (both its foot and its tentacles) and is no longer positioned up/towards the light. <How old are the bulbs?> In fact, it appears to be resting on the glass bottom of the tank. It is still deep red in color and its foot remains attached to the same ledge of LR. Last night I tried to feed it, but it did not take the food or close up around itself as usual. <This is not a good sign. Can you send me a picture of the anemone?> As you know, you get to know your animals, and I just know that the BTA is not itself. <Yes> Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and phosphate are all 0. Temp is stable at 77-78*, <I prefer a bit warmer temperature for anemones. I try to keep mine at 80 degrees.> pH is 8.3, alk is 3.5 meq/L, and salinity is 1.0245 (I have tried to get it up to 1.025 but can't keep it stable there due to top-off, salt creep, etc.). <Be careful with salt creep, it is dangerous to live stock. I recommend 1.026 for anemones. I suggest topping off with salt water until you get to 1.026.> I also employ a 30g fuge (4" DSB, LR and Chaeto) and a Coral Life Super Skimmer, and I run carbon in my sump (change every 4 weeks). <I would try increasing the carbon change to every 2 weeks.> I have about 85lbs of LR, a Sailfin Tang, a Royal Gramma, a Brown Combtooth Blenny, and a Canary Wrasse (in addition to the Clown), two Cleaner Shrimps, about 22 various types of shrooms, <Mushrooms are toxic. You may have a chemical war going on here. Changing your carbon more frequently may help.> 2 small tree corals, a Lemnalia, and some Xenia. I do a 10% water change each week. Water is RO/DI. <Is it time to change the filters?> Circulation is about 10x per hour. I am very careful about not introducing any foreign substances (cleaners, etc.). <Good!> Do BTAs go through these phases, or should I be worried? <This is not a phase, something is wrong here.> I don't know what I could be doing wrong or not doing. <It may be a combination of things. I suspect the mushrooms contributing largely to the problem. Lighting and RO/DI filters may also be contributing. However, I would expect the anemone to move higher up if it was not getting enough light.> Thanks for any insight you may have. Andy <You're welcome! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare -- 12/2/07
Thanks for the response, Brenda. <You're welcome Andy! I received both of your e-mails, and will answer both here.> I have attached 2 pictures of the BTA. Unfortunately, it's positioned itself under a ledge, oriented perpendicular to the front of the tank and out of light, so the pictures aren't that great and I couldn't get a picture of its mouth. I also don't have a macro lens yet, so the image quality is what it is . . . <Hard to tell. The pictures are much too dark. The anemone is much too small for a Maroon Clownfish. Maroons can be rough on smaller anemones. It is recommended that the anemone be 3 times larger than the clownfish. The anemone is also too small for having it 7 months with your feeding schedule. It is not getting the proper nutrition. Is the clownfish or the shrimp stealing its food?> I forgot to mention in my last e-mail that my calcium is 400, so that is where it should be as well. I tried tonight to feed it some fresh clam. It captured the clam and started to swirl its tentacles, but I'm pretty sure it never ate the food (it didn't form a bulb around itself as usual). <I suggest trying some silversides. Not all anemones will accept the same foods. There are many cases where some anemones reject many common foods, and will accept silversides. Based on the condition of the anemone, I would feed a 1/8 inch sized portion of silversides daily. Once it improves I would go to 1/4 inch sized portion every 2 to 3 days for a month or two.> Thanks again for your help. <You're welcome!> Shoot! I forgot to answer your other questions too. My RO/DI unit is 4-5 months old, and my TDS reads 148 going in and 0 going out, so I think the filters are working fine. <I would take a sample into your LFS to double check. It is not uncommon for 4-5 month old filters to need to be replaced.> My T5 bulbs are about 7 months old or so--they do not have separate reflectors. <Is it time to clean the salt off of the reflector and bulbs?> All of my mushrooms are at the edges of my tank, and the BTA sits in the middle of my tank. Relatively speaking, there isn't a mushroom near the BTA. <They do not have to be next to each other to have chemical warfare.> I will start swapping out the carbon more often. I realize that things in the marine world happen slowly (sometimes). The BTA and the shrooms have lived together for 5 or 6 months. <Chemical warfare is a perfect example of things going bad slowly. With anemones, it can take months, or even a few years before it starts showing ill signs. Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare -- 12/4/07
Thanks again. <You're welcome!> The anemone is actually quite big when healthy, at least 3 times as big as the clown. I was able to get a feeding response from it by trying another piece of fresh clam, but it wasn't nearly as vigorous as usual. <I would still try the silversides. Are you positive that what you have is a BTA? After our last e-mail, I started thinking it may possibly be an LTA, which may explain why it hasn't climbed higher in the tank.> I clean the salt spray from the shields on my lights every week. <Good!> Andy <Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare -- 12/5/07
Brenda, <Andy> I'm not sure of anything, although it was sold to me as a "bulb anemone" and did have bubble tips for about the first month or so, so I'm pretty sure it's a BTA. <It does appear to be.> I will get silversides tonight and start the feeding routine you suggested. I'll keep you posted. <Great! I'll keep my fingers crossed!> Thanks for all your help. Andy <You're welcome and good luck! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare -- 12/7/07
Well Brenda, I am at a loss as to what is going on with my BTA. For three nights I have tried to feed it small pieces of silversides and I am pretty sure that the BTA failed to eat at least 2 of those 3 times. Tonight, I stood on a chair with my arm in the tank for 45 minutes chasing all my hermits and shrimps away from the anemone hoping to ensure that it could eat unmolested. <I would remove the hermits and shrimp, or you could place a plastic strawberry basket over the anemone. However, based on the location of the anemone, I don't know if you are going to be able to do this. Removal of the shrimp and crabs is best! I have seen shrimp go digging inside an anemone looking for food several hours after feeding an anemone. Eventually the shrimp became the anemones dinner. Pay backs are rough sometimes. All crabs have the potential to be predators.> My back now aches and the skin on my hand became shriveled, and the BTA ultimately released the silverside without eating. <Ouch!> I raised my temp to 80 degrees and the salinity is now over 1.025. <Needs to be 1.026 and stable.> Is it possible that it is getting ready to split and that's why it is not eating? <Is possible, but I don't believe this is what is going on.> If it starts to die, how in the heck do I get it out of my tank? <First, I'm not sure that your anemone is going to die soon, but it is possible. It is hard to say without a better picture. However, in the even that it does, you will need to remove it quickly before the rest of your livestock dies. It is not going to be a fun easy task. If it is already falling apart (this happens rather quickly) when you find it, you may be able to suction it out. Either way, it is going to be extremely unpleasant for you and your livestock. Keep plenty of extra saltwater on hand. You will need to do a large water change and run fresh carbon. Keep a close eye on the water parameters for the first two week.> It's at the bottom of my tank with its foot firmly planted under LR. Also, I seriously believe my Clown will die from loneliness. <As I stated before, your anemone is much too small for the Maroon. They need to be separated. Maroons are harsh on a smaller anemone and likely deadly to a sick anemone. Your clownfish will be a little upset over the loss, but will not die without an anemone. Have you taken your water samples in to be tested yet? Were the readings the same as your test kits? I still believe that you do not have enough lighting to support this anemone. Unfortunately, I can not explain why it regained its color after you got it and is now ill. Your lighting, a Maroon loving it to death, water parameters, toxins in the water, the shrimp and the crabs, are all possibilities. I would start looking into finding another home for the anemone, preferably someone experienced with sick anemones. I believe this situation is going to continue to worsen. If you need help finding someone, let me know your location and I will see if I can find someone local to you. For now, I suggest contacting your closest reef club. A LFS is not likely going to take on this task.> Andy <I wish I had better news for you! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare -- 12/7/07
Brenda, <Andy> Without breaking down my entire tank, there is no way that I am going to get this BTA out of the tank. His foot is wedged deep between the bottom of my tank and a piece of LR. It just isn't going to happen. <Try aiming a powerhead at it (without blasting it). Maybe you'll get lucky and it will move on its own. Can you see the anemones foot from underneath the tank? Is it attached to the glass? If so, possibly something cold (soft ice pack) from underneath, along with the powerhead may irritate the foot enough to make it move. It is a long shot, but worth a try. If this doesn't work, there really is no other option other than tearing the tank apart. Letting it die is not an option in my opinion.> Believe it or not, the Clown was just a tiny sucker when I got her--dwarfed by the BTA. And as I said in a previous email, when healthy, the BTA is actually quite large--double if not triple the size of the Clown. <Yes, I am aware of that, but circumstances have changed drastically.> The one thing I totally forgot to do, and which I will do Saturday, is take my water to the LFS. Thanks again for all your time/help. Andy <You're Welcome! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare -- 12/7/07
Brenda, <Andy> I've read many times on WWM that "allowing an animal to die is never an option". With all due respect to the love that we all have for our animals, I don't necessarily agree that allowing an animal to die is always "wrong" and is never an "option". <I am not convinced that your anemone could not live a long healthy life if it were given the proper environment.> In fact, under appropriate circumstances, it may even be the right option. Rather, in deciding to entirely break down a large tank to save one animal, I think one needs to consider the incredible amount of stress that such action would place on all the other livestock and the possibility that, in saving one animal, you may kill others. <I am fully aware of the stress involved in tearing a tank apart. I can assure you that a dead anemone, can crash your entire system quickly, leaving you with a total loss. I did recommend the lesser of the two evils here.> In addition, in my particular situation, one needs to consider whether you will actually be able to dislodge the anemone without severely injuring it in the process. <Extreme caution is always required when handling anemones. However, it is not an impossible task.> Add to all of that the stress placed on the fish keeper, his or her available facilities (e.g., ability to move and hold healthy livestock while breaking down the tank, etc.), and any number of other factors. <When you purchase any animal, you are ultimately responsible for their care. This animal did not ask to be removed from the ocean.> My tank is large, heavy and sits on an oak stand. I can't see or access the bottom of the tank. The BTA's foot is wedged deep between the glass bottom and a large piece of live rock. I honestly do not believe that I could physically get this anemone out of this crevice without tearing its foot. The power head idea may work, though. <If you can see the foot, or have a general idea where it is, aim the powerhead in that direction.> As with everything in life, there are no absolutes, there is never only one "right" way to do things, and there is no "single" moral compass that we all must follow. We all love our animals, or we wouldn't be in the hobby. Some hobbyist obviously are more caring/thoughtful than others, but I honestly believe that very few of us go out and spend thousands of dollars on a display and thousands of hours of hard work only to take a "I don't care about my animals" attitude. I certainly do not want to see my BTA die, and I am certainly committed to keeping my livestock healthy and happy and to nurse them back to health when they are sick. <You are correct, there are no absolutes. However, given a proper environment and proper care, they won't get sick. The lack of lighting issue was mentioned to you back in early or mid October. Nearly two months have gone by. You stated that upgrading the equipment was not an option at this time. Sufficient lighting, double checking your water parameters with another source, removing the clownfish for a month or two, or finding a new home, may save this creatures life. That my friend is the 'single' moral thing to do.> Hopefully things will work out for my BTA. <I truly hope so too!> Andy <Good luck to you! I hope that someday you are able to send me an e-mail telling me that the anemone is thriving. Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare, -- 12/8/07
Brenda, <Andy> I hereby crown you the Angry Crew Member. <You are sadly mistaken here. I am not angry, but I am disappointed in your lack of willingness to satisfy this animals needs.> The WWM Crew frequently requests that posters read their e-mails twice to make sure that the spelling, grammar, etc. is correct. <Yet I'm still fixing yours!> In the same vein, I ask you to save your responses for 12 hours and then come back and read them again to make sure you really want to hit "send". <I answer when time allows, and will continue to do so.> The only reason I am dignifying your tone/comments is that I celebrated the holidays with our friends tonight and I have a few beers in me. <Is your drug altered state of mind supposed to be funny, insulting or threatening? It is not welcome here!> I have news for you--long before October, long before you were involved in my BTA issue, even before I bought my BTA, I asked two reputable local fish stores about the suitability of my lighting system with a BTA, and each of them stated that my T5 lighting would be fine. <How is that working out for you?> In fact, I even posed the question to WWM and RMF (if memory serves) stated that my T5 lighting system should be sufficient, that the BTA would likely find its "spot" in my tank and that I would know soon enough by its movement, etc. whether it was happy. It's been 6 or 7 months . . . <The words 'likely' and 'should' are key words here, and 'soon enough' has now passed. Providing Bob with the correct information on your lighting would have been more helpful. You did not know if your T-5 lighting system had individual reflectors or not. In fact you did not understand what individual reflectors were. I explained this to you.> This is a 10-day old problem. <No, the problem started the day you purchased the anemone and placed it in your tank without researching their requirements.> When I asked you previously about my lighting, my BTA was seemingly in fine health, eating, large, and happy. <Perhaps a refresher is needed: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/spgidf7.htm > I asked you BECAUSE I was being proactive by trying to get as much info/opinion as possible. While I respect your opinion, it is not universally shared. <I have spent many hours researching and caring for anemones. The information that I provided to you is the best available to date.> Define "proper environment" and "proper care". Is it lighting? Is it food? Is it luck? <There are many factors involved. This information was previously provided to you. It is also posted many times on WWM. 'Luck' is not the answer when providing long term care for this delicate creature.> You don't know the answer, and you've admitted to me as much. <My statement in my first e-mail regarding this issue: 'The anemone appears healthy. If you have individual reflectors on your T-5s, I would leave things alone.'> If my lighting is so bad, why has my BTA remained in the same spot for 7 months and not moved to the top of my LR so that it can be as close to the light as possible? <It may not have the energy to move. It clearly doesn't even have the energy to eat.> Why has its color improved? <I have not seen this. Again, this is based on your description.> Don't lecture me about my responsibilities. I have spent countless hours researching WWM, books, articles, etc. <This is not a lecture, but a repeat of the hundreds of posts already on WetWebMedia.> I have spent thousands of dollars on supplies, equipment, etc. to ensure that my pets have a good environment. <A million dollars invested in the wrong equipment won't help.> My wife thinks I live in my basement as it is. I'm not the Baltimore Aquarium, for God's sake. I don't have 30 tanks waiting to house my fish and inverts while I rescue an animal. <You have a 110 gallon tank here. Do the math! You won't need 30 tanks.> I'm doing the best I can here, by writing you as soon as I see a problem, by feeding, by testing water, etc. <No, not the best, just what you are willing to do, and you are not considering the animal's life. Writing won't help much unless you actually act.> That's what's moral. <Obviously we don't agree here.> I fully intend to take a sample to my LFS. <Is a good choice, should have been done already.> I don't know what your day job is, but mine doesn't involve sitting at home with hours of free time on my hands to run off <to> the LFS whose hours don't always match up with my schedule. <My day job is not your business.> It will get done tomorrow. And, what if my water checks out fine? What then? <Does upgrading your lighting, removing the clownfish, chemical warfare, correcting your water parameters sound familiar?> What if the BTA is simply dying? <Anemones don't just 'simply' die without cause. They can out live both of us if given the proper environment.> I just put down my dog. She was 15. I could have spent thousands of dollars on surgery, but the vet said she probably wouldn't make it through the surgery and, even if she did, there was a good possibility that she would die anyway. He said it was just her time. <May she rest in peace! So it must be the anemone's time too?> Sometimes things just happen, and all the water changes, and MH lighting, and food, and isolation won't change a thing. <I'm not sure where you are getting your information here, but it is incorrect in this case.> Clearly there is something wrong with my BTA. <Oh yes! Clearly!> I will do all in my power to figure out what that is and hopefully remedy it. <It has been figured out for you. I have listed the remedy. It won't fix itself.> I honestly do not want my BTA to die or to foul my tank. I have invested too much time and money to want that to happen. <Perhaps a little more time and money will fix the situation.> I thank you kindly for all of your insight and help. Happy Holidays. <Andy, when you do sober up please know that I will no longer be assisting you. Brenda>
Re: BTA Health... effective communication    12/9/07
Brenda, <Mmm, no, BobF this time> You don't have to assist me anymore, but I need to set the record straight because you aren't reading. <Have just reviewed this corr. Here: http://wetwebmedia.com/btadisf6.htm > You seriously have issues. <...?> Threatening? Don't be ridiculous or a jerk. <......?> Nothing in my post could be construed as threatening. Funny? A good assessment? Yeah, those two. Maybe it's just your email mannerism, but my problem with you is that you come across as a holier than thou, know-it-all jerk (and I have seen this in many other responses from you to others, including one in which you scolded a poster by making a reference to your dying grandfather-- your day job is no one's business, but your grandfather is?). <Take care here my friend... this is neither pertinent, nor proper> I will ignore your "sober up" and "drug induced" remarks (as well as your typos that were in your earlier responses--people who live in glass houses . . .). They are wholly inappropriate based on an incorrect reading of my post. I was simply in a good mood. You have made these grand statements about how I failed to do my research, how I neglected to tell Bob about my lighting, how I am unwilling to buy a different lighting system, how I am unwilling to take the steps necessary to help my anemone, etc. They are all just plain wrong. You are right, I willingly misrepresented my lighting system to Bob when I told him that I had the "Current Nova Extreme T5 HO lighting system." I have used this same description with others as well. You guys are the fish experts, which is why we write. Even though this is an extremely popular and common unit, I guess I should have known that no one knew that it didn't have individual reflectors (and known to even ask the question/know the difference!). I take exception to your comment that I failed to do research. First, I did do research before I purchased the BTA. I read WWM, I read CMA, I researched other sites, and I asked the industry. Apparently you want me to take a college course. Many people successfully keep anemones using T5 lighting--this is evidenced by hundreds of posts on WWM and elsewhere. Show me a site other than your posts which states "if you're going to use T5 lighting with anemones, you must use individual reflectors--that Nove Extreme system just won't work." If (1) the manufacturer's description, (2) the retailer's description, and (3) two separate LFSs all indicate that the fixture is appropriate, and RMF doesn't mention anything about individual reflectors after I described my situation, why in the world would I think to ask the question? What more research could I have done? You just need to be right today, that's all. <For some/whatever record, reflectors can/do help to focus, re-direct considerable amounts of light energy> Also, I didn't say I wasn't willing to upgrade lighting--I said it was less than a year old and expensive, and I hated to trash it if I didn't have to. You suggest reflectors or MH, someone else suggests swapping in 14000K bulbs the next time I replace, someone else says my T5s are fine. Clearly a consensus, and I can understand how you could think that I am a totally irresponsible, uninformed hobbyist. <Mmm, I don't see/read Brenda as coming across, stating this> As for the 30 tank comment, I guess you don't recognize hyperbole when you see it. FYI, my water checked out fine except phosphates were a little high (0.2) and iodine levels were extremely low to non-existent, which is odd because I do weekly water changes. The LFS stated that these two factors could definitely be the cause of my BTA's refusal to eat. I have taken chemical steps to fix these issues and will try to figure out what could be causing my phosphates. I have also been able to get my BTA to eat thawed mysis shrimp the last 2 night--I don't know why it won't touch the silversides. <I encourage you to use tongs rather than placing your hands in the system for any period/length of time> I look forward to working with a calmer, less judgmental Crew member the next time around. Andy <It is my opinion from reading the corr. here that your Premnas IS much too large, is over-bullying this Entacmaea. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marclncompfaqs.htm and that this Anemone is indeed in other ways in a less-than ideal setting in terms of light, other Cnidarian presence, foods/feeding... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm  and the linked files above. I think you should seek your free input elsewhere Andy... at least until which time you can be/are civil. I count myself a tolerant person, but will not allow such rudeness as this missal... Bob Fenner>
For Brenda/Bob... BTA hlth., more impt.ly, WWM and tolerance... a/the human cond., beh. patterns, consequences and politics  12/30/07
Dear Brenda and Bob, <Andy> I sent an e-mail to Bob's hotmail account a few weeks ago, but I'm not sure that address is functional so I thought it best to send an e-mail through WWM (and I wanted Brenda to hear me out too). So . . . now that I've had a chance to think about things . . . I have realized a few things, not the least of which is that you don't bite the hand that feeds you. WWM is a wonderful, one-of-a-kind website. There is nothing for hobbyists that parallels WWM on the web. I am very glad I found it, although I wish I had done so before I got back into the hobby. That said, I wanted to apologize to Brenda for my responses to her e-mails relating to the health of my BTA. Whether my perception of her e-mail "tone" was right or wrong, I know that you guys do this for free, because you love the hobby, and that, as I was looking to her for free help, I should have used a little bit more restraint in my responses to her. <Agreed> E-mail is impersonal and, as such, no matter in what context or forum e-mail is used, a sender's "attitude"/tone is often misinterpreted by the recipient. I think this potential is especially likely in less formal settings like (no disrespect intended) chat forums and the like. In my line of work, where client perception is everything, the manner in which an e-mail is likely to be interpreted is something of which I try to be constantly cognizant before I hit "send". <A good stance, point of view> To this end, I almost always re-read my e-mails a few times before I send them to make sure that they says and mean what I want them to say and mean. In retrospect, I should have used similar judgment in responding to Brenda and either toned things down or simply not responded at all. <You are wise here> I think the e-mail exchange between Brenda and me was a victim of such unintended interpretations. Although I honestly believe that nothing in my e-mails to Brenda could have been, or should have been, construed as rude or uncivil, I understand that "beauty is in the eye of the beholder", and I apologize to Brenda and you if either of you perceived my "tone" to be less than grateful. <I will accrue this msg. with the rest... To me... there were overtly rude statements> I know you both realize that we don't live in a perfect world, that we all have "other" lives requiring other commitments (like work, children, paying bills, etc.), that we live in houses that impose constraints on our set-ups and ability to deal with problems, that our wives don't always approve of turning basements into the National Aquarium, etc., and that, sometimes, some things are just not practical or practicable. I am very aware of the responsibilities that I took on when I decided to keep marine animals but, as with everything in life, there will always be limits as to what is possible in a given situation. When you're worried about your animals/investment and are faced with a touchy situation--when you know what your limits are and have tried to articulate them--it's difficult to listen to criticism. I honestly felt that Brenda's comments to me were someone brusque, but be that as it may I realize that she was simply giving me a dose of reality. <Mmmm, yes> I hope that Brenda and you will accept my apology and that you will remove me from the "black list". <We have no such list/s... nor have I ever, or will "block" people... Childish. I only hope to urge others to civil discourse. Realize that we all, including myself are not paid, are volunteers, are "mere" humans as well... Earnestly interested in aiding others... on an informal, ongoing basis... NOT perfect, certainly NOT doing this work as a "job"...> As an aside/update, as a result of Brenda's comments I decided to upgrade my lighting to a unit with 2x250W HQI and 4x65W pure actinic PCs. Although my BTA is not entirely back to normal, I believe (and hope) that it is on the mend, as it has stopped moving around the tank and has become more full since I replaced the lighting (I used the screen technique discussed on WWM to acclimate my system to the new lighting). I tried to remove it to my QT, but I wasn't successful and didn't want to damage it. On a good note, my clown has pretty much left it alone. And, on the upside, my mushrooms, tree corals and Xenia have NEVER looked better/healthier--they are much more full--and I am very glad I upgraded. Andy <I am very glad to see/read of your improvements and benefitted livestock. Bob Fenner>

Mis-matched

Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare, Now Starving Anemone -- 1/05/07 Dear Bob/Crew, <Hi Andy, Brenda here again.> This is a follow up to posts to/from Brenda and Bob re: my BTA. Last night when I got home from work, I noticed that my softies were retracted tightly. <What are your water parameters?> Things just didn't "look right". I started to worry that my BTA may be getting ready to explode, as it did not look good. <It does not look like it is ready to explode to me. However, it is starving. In your first picture (BTA1), above the mouth and to the left I see something that looks like a possible injury. Has the anemone previously been injured?> I also noticed that the BTA had finally moved to a rock that I could remove--now I could remove it to a separate tank without trying to pry its foot off any rock. So, I removed the rock and acclimated it into my QT (now lighted by a spare 2x54W T5 HO 10,000K strip light). <What size is this QT tank? Keep a close eye on your water parameters.> The BTA really does not look good at all. I've attached two pics--it is now about 1.5" in diameter and is starting to bleach. I tried to feed it some small pieces of Selcon-soaked silverside (as I have done for weeks), but the piece of fish eventually floated free. <This anemone has not digested any food in weeks. Something is taking its food, or it is regurgitating it later. What sized portions are you feeding? I would try a super tiny piece of food (sliver size), fed once daily until the anemone shows improvement. Don't over feed, this will cause regurgitation, and also cause more stress to the anemone. If the anemone still does not accept the food, try some Mysis shrimp. If that doesn't work, discontinue the Selcon. Although it is rare, there are some anemones that will not digest some foods. In addition to the above information, it is not uncommon for anemones placed in a new environment to not accept food. Just keep trying. Also, is there any possibility that this anemone has previously split in your tank? I am wondering if you had a second anemone that went unnoticed. The fact that your anemone quickly reduced in size and its previous stress, is reason enough for me to believe this anemone may have cloned itself. The fact that you came home to unusually stressed coral makes me wonder if an anemone may have died in your tank. Check your ammonia levels.> Do you think this BTA can be saved with patience/no presence of cnidarians or Clown, or is it likely too far gone? <It is not too far gone, but it is in poor health. I have seen much worse recover and thrive. It will however take a lot of dedication and patience.> Thanks. <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: Update: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare, Now Starving Anemone -- 1/05/07 Brenda, <Andy> Thanks for the response. <You're welcome!> My verb choice was not good--by "explode" I meant turn to goo. I am 99.9% sure that this BTA did not split-ever. I have watched it closely since I have owned it. My water parameters were and are: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, silicates, and phosphate are all 0, pH is 8.3, salinity is 1.025, temp. is 80.7*F, calcium is 400, Alk is 3.5-4 mEq/L. In sum, nothing that would lead me to believe that anything died in the tank. <Good! I agree with ammonia of zero that nothing died.> Once I removed the BTA, my softies were open and happy. I also don't think it has suffered any trauma, although I can't be sure. The important thing is that it is now in QT/HT--30 gal long. <Is the anemone being kept with your new Chelmon rostratus, also currently in QT? They are not always the best tank mates. See here: http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=212&N=0 > I am changing water every day and checking parameters. They are pretty close to my display, although salinity is 1.026. <Good!> I will try feeding very small pieces of food/Mysis as you suggested and keep you posted. Thanks again. Andy <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: Update: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare, Now Starving Anemone -- 1/06/07 Yes, unfortunately it's the only extra tank I have. The butterfly, which is small, pays no attention to the BTA (so far). <You may want to consider creating a partition using eggcrate.> Andy <Brenda

Re: Update: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare, Now Starving Anemone -- 1/07/07 Good morning Brenda. <Good morning Andy.> I will add a separator today. I cannot get this BTA to eat and am getting very frustrated. <Keep trying to feed daily. Remove any uneaten food so you don't foul the tank.> Today I tried Mysis. It will not even grab onto the food, much less attempt to eat. <Turn off the flow for a bit and place the food on the anemone, near its mouth.> Andy
<Brenda>

BTA Losing Tentacles  - 5/18/2006 Hello WWM Crew, I've had a BTA for about 3 months now, during the day he is wide open and looks good, in the evening he usually shrivels up a bit. He is, and has always been, a very nice medium brown color with a light glaze of florescent green around the tentacles. Suddenly over the course of a day or two the tentacles near the inner part of his disk are seeming to "twist" off at the base. Kind of like making a balloon animal of his tentacles, then falling off. The outer tentacles are fine and fully inflated, and he appears healthy apart from the tentacles falling off... He has a healthy appetite and feeds regularly twice a week on pieces of shrimp (which he greedily eats). <Not too large bits I trust> My domino damsel has also hosted him, and my ocellaris completely ignore him. Which from what I've read is normal since ocellaris and BTA's aren't the best mix. As far as water chemistry Salinity is 1.025, KH is 11, Ph is 8.3, Temp is 80', Nitrite is 0, Ammonia is 0, Nitrate is 0, Phosphate is 0. I have about 200W of VHO lighting A penguin hang on with BioWheel, SeaClone Protein skimmer, and 2 wavemaker power heads creating in my opinion sufficient flow through the aquarium. The tank has been setup for about 7 months in our new location, and is a 29 gallon. Any thoughts would be much appreciated! Thanks, Adam <Mmm, well... something is not to this animal's liking... water quality likely... but what of this? Water changes might help... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm and the "Systems", "Feeding" and "Disease" linked files above. It's hard to keep such life in small systems... Bob Fenner>

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