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FAQs about Fungiid Coral Health/Disease 3
Related Articles:
Coral Pests and Disease; pests, predators, diseases and conditions
by Sara Mavinkurve, Fungiid Corals,
Related FAQs: Fungiid Disease 1,
Fungiid Disease 2, Fungiid Disease 4,
& Coral Disease,
Fungiid Corals 1, Fungiid Corals 2, Fungiid
Identification, Fungiid Behavior,
Fungiid Compatibility, Fungiid
Selection, Fungiid Systems,
Fungiid Feeding, Fungiid
Reproduction, Stony/True Coral,
Coral System Set-Up, Coral System
Lighting, Stony Coral Identification,
Stony Coral Selection, Coral Placement,
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
Disease/Health, Propagation,
Growing Reef Corals, Stony
Coral Behavior, | 
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Pink Fungia Plate Coral 01/09/09 I have been an avid
reader of your site for a couple months now and would like some
expert advice. Here is my current problem, my pink Fungia plate
coral which has been doing well, started showing signs of white
skeleton around the mouth are yesterday. <Yikes, not good. How
long have you had this coral? If you've had it a long time (several
months or more) and only just now started target feeding it, it
might be starving to death.> I came home tonight and it was
worse. I watched it last night in the dark and it was the first
night it had not open it's tentacles at all. I tried target feeding
it last night, but never saw it eat. It still has some color, but it
has puked up a lot of it onto the sand bed. My parameters all
checked out o.k. except two, salinity was at 1.027, I have since
lowered it to 1.026. My calcium is high enough that I can't get an
accurate reading to tell you, it's at 600 or more, <Calcium is
too high... makes me suspect that your Alk is much too low.> I
have changed out water, but calcium is still high, ph seems to
reside where it always does between 8.0-8.1, is there anything I can
do? Should I remove it. <No> Here are my tank specs. 65
gallon wide 4x96 watts 2 10,000k, two blue actinic, 1 flower
anemone, 1 tube anemone, a pair of mated percula clownfish, 1 green
chromis, one hippo tang, 1 goby Firefish, 1 mandarin goby, 1 coral
banded shrimp, several blue and red legged hermit crabs, 1 emerald
crab(maybe 2), 1 anemone crab, 1 sand sifting starfish, a few Cerith
snails, a few turbo snails, white star polyps, green star polyps,
flower pot coral, Kenya tree frag, xenia colony, yellow button
polyps, blue zoos(small colony growing on a half clam shell), green
zoos, amour of god zoos(very small colony), colt coral, blue
anthelia, purple, red and blue mushroom colonies, and my pink Fungia
plate. My tank may be over stocked? <This is somewhat a matter
of opinion, but yes, I think you have too many different types of
coral in too small a tank... many of which are notorious for their
toxicity to each other and other corals.> Did my high calcium
level start to kill my plate? <Perhaps not by itself, but really
high calcium usually means that other parameters are out of whack
(such as alkalinity). Also, I suspend that maybe you haven't had
this tank for very long. You may have added too many things to the
tank too quickly-- and before giving yourself enough time to learn
good aquarium maintenance... and to let your system age.> Is
there any way to save it? <Time will tell. If you have a friend
with an older tank and more reef aquarium experience, you might give
it to him/her for awhile. Otherwise, I suggest you leave it where it
is and concentrate on getting your water parameters closer to ideal
(do this slowly). If/when it starts to recover> Do I leave it or
pull it? I am running a skimmer, and several pumps, as well as a
whisper 30 hang on filter with carbon. Everything else seems to be
doing well, here is a picture of the tank layout. <A good sign at
least...> Thanks for any help or advice in advance. Aaron
<De nada, Sara M.> |
down here at left |
Re: Pink Fungia Plate Coral 01/09/09 After testing
the calcium several times(new test), seems to be somewhere
between 580-600, so it is high and I just changed out some water
with fresh water to lower the salinity, (my salt has calcium in
it, so I don't know if a further water change will help or
hurt.) Did high calcium levels lead to my dying plate coral?
Wouldn't other corals in my tank suffer first? <Please see my
response to your first query for answers to these questions.
-Cheers, Sara M.>
Re: Pink Fungia Plate Coral 01/09/09 Thanks Sara!
The tank is about 9months old, transferred with most of the
water and new substrate to a bit larger tank 3 months ago. The
tank has done really well in the last couple of months, outside
of the plate coral(recent) and the high calcium levels. <I
can't say for sure, but sometimes LPS and soft corals
(especially leathers), just don't mix.> Is there anyway to
bring the calcium down and raise the alkalinity safely and
easily? I know I can do water changes, but unless I buy cheaper
salt, this is just going to add more calcium to my tank. <You
can add baking soda to slowly raise the alkalinity... this will
lower the calcium. Please see here:
http://www.asira.org/practicalchemistrybasics> How does the
layout look in the pic? <Looks fine, but expect some (or a
lot) of warfare once these things "take off" growing.> I
think I have things separated and positioned properly for what I
have. I could move some things to another tank eventually. I
can send you more pics if that would help. <Thanks for the
pics. I think your tank is fine for a soft coral set up. Just
don't be too surprised if you continually have troubles with
stony corals amongst all those softies in such a small-ish
volume of water. You could add to water volume by adding a
remote refugium.> Thanks, Aaron <De nada, Sara M.>
Re: Pink Fungia Plate Coral 01/10/09 Thanks for the
great advice and links, one last question, in your opinion
should I remove some of my soft corals if I want to try and keep
a plate coral, I do have a large sump that I was planning on
turning into a refugium <Unfortunately, moving the soft
corals to a sump or refugium might not help much since their
toxins can travel between tanks. If it were me, I would remove
(entirely) at least the leather corals. Also, you might try
moving the Fungia to the sump (if it's well lit). For whatever
reason, *sometimes* they do better there.> at some point.
I really think plate corals are fascinating <I do agree...
they are great corals!> and would love to keep one or do I
need to have a second tank for this? <I would advice you to
first get your water parameters right and stable for awhile. I'm
not entirely sure which is the problem here. So best to get
everything else in order, and stable. Then by process of
elimination, think about what the problem might be.> Is it
possible having the amount of softies I have may be a problem in
itself without trying to keep anything else. <You might have
to remove some things (like the leathers). But it is certainly
possible to keep soft corals and Fungia together. Some of these
things can get along, especially if you run a lot of activated
carbon. However, you might have to remove some of the
softies.> Still learning, at least I am slowly learning from
past mistakes. <We are all still, slowly learning. :-)
Best, Sara M.>
Re: Pink Fungia Plate Coral 01/10/09 One last
question, this is about the dumbest mistake I have ever made in
this hobby, I read my thermometer wrong, since I have set up
this tank, about two-three months since I transferred my tank to
this one, I got a new thermometer and have been reading it
wrong, my temp is at 85-86 consistently, <This is too warm.
My advice, get 1 or 2 more thermometers... of any type (they
don't have to be for aquariums necessarily, just anything
reliable and accurate that you can dip in water). Aquarium
thermometers are often unreliable. I personally have about 5 and
they all read slightly different temperatures. I usually just
average them.> which everything seems to be happy with,
should I try and drop my temp a bit and how slow. I know I
should attempt to drop it no more than 1 degree a day I would
assume. <Yes, do drop the temperature (slowly, 1 degree a
day) to closer to 80 to 82F. Best, Sara M.>
Re: Pink Fungia Plate Coral 01/10/09 I am concerned,
lowering the temp could cause more problems, especially if it
lowers too quickly. It's hard to control this precisely. I have
three heaters in the tank, I lowered the 150 watt quite a bit
and left the two 100 watts as is, so far in 5 hours the temp has
gone from 86 to 85 I won't be able to check it again until
morning, everything still looks well. <good> I added two
extra thermometers to be sure the temp was correct. I suspect
the temp combined with high calcium killed the Fungia as well as
perhaps irritation from the leather, however I think it's
strange that the star polyps, yellow button polyps, anemones,
and xenia <The star polyps, yellow buttons, xenia... these
are all extremely hardy corals. In fact, many seasoned reef
aquarists consider them "weeds" because they grow so fast in
healthy tanks and are actually often difficult to kill/abate. As
an experiment, I once threw some Zoanthids (button polyps) in a
10g tank with no light (except for a little ambient sunlight)
and didn't top it off or do anything to the tank for over a
month. By the time I finally remembered they were in there,
about 1/3 of the water had evaporated, the salinity was through
the roof. The water was actually cold and I'm sure the
parameters were all completely out of whack... even the algae
had died... but those Zoanthids hung in there. They weren't
happy. They were skinny and brown, but they were alive. I
guess my point is... these are difficult corals to kill. Just
because they are doing well in your system, that doesn't
necessarily mean you're doing everything right. Fungia are
different. They are more sensitive. That said, they are also
known for their seemingly miraculous recoveries. So unless
there's no tissue at all left on the coral, I wouldn't consider
it dead yet.> are all doing so well along with everything
else. <Best, Sara M.> |
Wilted plate coral -09/05/08 I have checked out the web
trying to find an answer, I have a 150 gal. reef fish and reef tank I
have many corals soft and stony coals for about four years all corals
are fine my water is good I have a large filter my fish do not pick at
my corals my corals are so well they reproduce all the time but I have a
large long tentacled plate coral (Heliofungia) that I have had for about
four months it looked great for maybe a month or two and now for a while
it looks like its tentacles are almost wilty looking I have moved it I
have under a more bright but not too bright with a slight current but
not strong area in my tank I feed it about two times a week I usually
feed it sinking fish food pellets it does eat them all the other coral
seem good with that food please help it is beautiful I do not want to
lose it. <Unfortunately, these corals just don't do when in
captivity. People often get them thinking they are as "hardy" as their
cousins the Fungia, but they are not. Sadly, there's likely not much you
can do to save this coral. Best, Sara M.>
Heliofungia actiniformis -09/05/08 Hi Crew, please
look at the picture on the attachment. I have 2 of these LPS for
3 months which opens fully and this 1 is been like this for +-10
days. I cannot see any jelly or dead flesh on the LPS, except for
stinging cells. Path of the LPS tentacles is extended, picture 035.
Is this a dieses, do I need to do something, please advise?
<Unfortunately, these particular corals (Heliofungia) just do not do
well in captivity. Sorry, but there's likely not much you can do.>
thanks Mohamed <Best, Sara M.> | |
Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral Doing Poorly, More Information
Needed – 6/4/08 I am new to this site and am not sure where this
will end up on the site---it appears to be a bit confusing to me. I have
2 questions. <Okay! > I found several articles on bulb tipped
anemones and found some great information. Mine (Annie--2 weeks old) has
just decided last night to fill with water and float all over the tank.
I understand this behavior means she is not happy and is looking for a
prime spot. <Correct> Also, she seems a little lighter in
color---perhaps she is not getting the proper nutrition/lighting. <It
has expelled some of its zooxanthellae. This can be caused from lack of
lighting, nutrition or another form of stress. > However she refuses
to stick anywhere and has very little reaction to tentacle
stimulation---and refuses to eat anything. <This does not sound
promising. > I used tongs to target feed some fresh shrimp, then
brine shrimp---she may have eaten a small amount of a shrimp pellet.
<Brine shrimp is useless unless it is newly hatched, or enriched.
Discontinue the pellet food, and try small portions of Krill, Mysis
Shrimp, or Silversides. > My tank parameters have been consistent and
good, and all of my critters are doing very well. How long do they usual
do the float? <Until they find a suitable spot. If one is not
available, it may float around until its death. > I know no one that
has a different/better set up. Any ideas I can do? I also was given a
small tentacle coral plate. <Fungia? > I also have read about
their behavior----swelling with water at times. However-mine lives on a
sandy substrate and the only indicator I see that she is alive, is that
she is still orange. I see no tentacles and no food moving towards her
mouth and refuses target feeding. She also has mucous around her. <Is
it getting any flow? What are you feeding? How long have you had it? >
I hope to hear from you soon-in the meantime I will continue to read
more on your website! <Good! > 38G, live rock---mushrooms and
polyps (1/2 the tank)---"shelf" model---rest is sand and small shells
Nova extreme lighting-4 T5s-2 actinic blue, 2 VHO-Led light at night
Penguin BioWheel 150 filter and a protein skimmer <What kind of
protein skimmer? Do you have any other flow? > 2 Percula clowns, 3
green Chromis, 1 black and white Damsel, 3 blue/yellow tail Damsels
<That’s a whole lot of Damsels! > Several species of snail and hermit
crabs, <Crabs can be predators. > 1 scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp,
1 peppermint shrimp, 1 serpent star, 1 bristle star, 1 shifting sand
star T=78, PH=8.2, SG=1.022, <This is much too low of salinity
for anemones. Gradually bring up to 1.026 by adding pre-mixed saltwater
as your top off daily. > ammonia=0, nitrite=0, nitrates=5-10,
<Work on getting nitrates down to zero. > calcium---350-400ppm, 12-14
dKH, <Your calcium is a bit low and your dKH is a bit high. See
here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm and here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm What is your magnesium level?
> phosphates=.5 <Needs to be zero. > I also perform a 5 gallon
water changes weekly and rinse filters daily. <Filters do not need
to be rinsed daily. How old is your system? How much live rock do you
have? > Thank you! Christina <You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral Doing Poorly, More
Information Needed – 6/4/08 6/9/08 Thanks for the reply
Brenda! <You’re welcome! > Annie (BTA) is still alive-I am not
sure how-unless she is getting minimal nutrition from the shrimp that I
feed the fish. <It is likely getting some nutrition from the waste
from the fish. > I lightly squished her into the live rock before
bedtime-and hoped she wouldn't die---But she actually likes the spot!!!
<Perfect! I’ll keep my fingers crossed that it stays. Just be careful
when handling the anemone. They are very delicate creatures.> Today I
am going to buy some Krill, Mysis shrimp and silversides. <Great! >
Re: the Fungia-I have no alt flow-I can buy a powerhead also. <You
will need the added flow. This may have been what the anemone was
looking for also. Be sure to cover the intake to protect the anemone.>
I am feeding-frozen brine shrimp, shrimp pellets, sometimes fresh shrimp
(small chunks), and Nori. The Fungia is still bright orange. I have
had her for 4 weeks. My tank overall is a new tank---approximately 9
months old. I put in 19 lbs live rock when I set the tank up. I am
bringing the SG up-as you said and yes, a lot of Damsels---a couple have
a "gig" next week-to help cycle my mom's tank. <I don’t recommend
using fish to cycle a tank. See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcyclfaq2.htm and here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm The parameters are
better (ca2+ and alkalinity, ca=440ppm, and Alk=10dKH) Plan: Get
Krill, Mysis shrimp, Silversides and Powerhead Slowly increase SG
Get Magnesium tests I am trying with frequent water changes to bring
the nitrates and phosphates down. <Have you considered a refugium
and/or macro algae. More information found here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm > What is the best food for
Fungia-I have heard many different opinions. <Meaty foods such as the
Mysis, Silversides or Krill. > I will have to get back to you about
the type of protein Skimmer. Thanks again!! Teena <You’re welcome!
Brenda>
Re: Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral Doing Poorly, More
Information Needed – 6/11/08 Just a quick update--The Anemone is
eating the Silversides and the Fungia is eating (I now actually see it)
the Mysis shrimp!! Everyone if happy with the increase in flow! Thanks
again and I will talk to you soon! <That is great news! Brenda> |
Orange Plate Coral Missing Mouth – 5/3/08 Dear Masters of The
Waterverse, <Heeee!> Your website is the best with the most
information out there, keep up the awesome work. <Trying> I am
a newby to the salt realm. I used the search and it seems like there
was a case similar but his picture looked somewhat different. I
started about 7 months ago. Most of the time it feels like I'm a
glutton for punishment so here is my latest escapade that hopefully
any one there can help me out with. I have a 30g tank, Aqua C
HOT skimmer, Whisper 40 filter, Compact USA Power Compact Lights 186
W, Hydor Koralia 2. My water parameters are: Salinity : 1.024
Ammonia: 0 Nitrate: 0 Phosphate: 0 PH: 8.4 Temp: 80 F
30 lbs live rock Calcium 400 ppm KH/GH:10 I do 2 to 3
gallons water change per week. Although tank is 30 gallon the water
inside is 20 gallons. I started using ro/di water two weeks ago due
to algae, red slime, green slime, brown diatoms. I have hermit
crabs 4 big(1 inch) striped legged, 4 blue legged, 2 cleaner shrimp
and 1 peppermint and various snails, Cerith and Nerite. Fishwise
I don't have anything that can harm the coral. Yellow tang (I know,
but it's small), <Mmm... this tank is too small> Clown fish,
Chromis, blue neon goby. I have small frags of some zoos, 1
Ricordea, 1 polyp of candy cane, 2 small open brain (3 inch), 1 red
mushroom. About 5 days ago I bought an orange plate about 2.5
inches diameter, I drop <A fox pass... Faux pas... you would do
well... much better to have/use a separate system for
acclimating/isolating new livestock> acclimated for over 2 hours
and dipped it in Lugol's solution according to the directions. the
first 2 says were great tentacles were out, I could see the mouth
open and shut, but on day 3 Wednesday the mouth looked missing and I
did not see any tentacles, I did see some white filaments for a
short period of time. Last night day 4 I did see the peppermint
shrimp picking at the mouth area <Bad...> , but did not see it
do that the previous 2 days. And when I look I look for a long time
(my wife hates the fish tank) <Not good... I'd be recruiting her>
during the day and at night and did not see anyone bother it. The
coral has been placed on the sand. I moved it closer to Hydor
Koralia 2 pump so that it could get a slightly stronger water flow.
I've attached some pics so maybe you have some advice for me? Is
this normal for the coral? Should I put it in a protective box
and spot feed? <I would> Is it the moving around causing it
stress? <Yes> Is the mouth severely retracted or gone (with
open brain I can always see a mouth but this is just a cavity)?
<Just retracted> What should I do? <Read> I don't think I
have the tissue recession as the other guy on the post but I could
be wrong. The pictures are pretty blurry (old school digital
camera). If they are so horrible and can't determine let me know and
I'll get a better camera and from someone and redo them. I would
appreciate any and all advice. Thanks. Steve Chen <An
intermediate setting Steve... Bob Fenner> | 
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WTF is this plate coral doing? HELP... Using WWM 04/22/08
See WWM re Heliofungia (actiniformis)... an inappropriate aquarium
specimen... this one is dying rapidly, being overgrown by Cyanobacteria.
Bob Fenner> | 
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Fungia coral hlth -04/06/08 Is there any chance in saving this
coral? <As long as there is still live tissue, there is a chance.>
Well established tank, over 9 years. I got this coral from someone and
it wasn't looking good when i got it. There is still some flesh on it, I
reduced the light on that side of the tank. Water is all good <Why
did you reduce the light? That might not necessarily help here. Best,
Sara M.> | 
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Fungia Plate Coral/Health 2/4/08 I purchased a Fungia Plate Coral
(short tentacle) a few days ago. In the shop it looked quite smooth and
very happy, it never looked like that again ever since I've brought it
home. I moved it yesterday and I accidently moved one of my hands too
quickly which sent some sand up which stuck to the plate coral. I then
used a pipette to squirt water onto it to remove the sand. I didn't know
what to do. And now it looks very ill, it is completely retracted and
its mouth is wide open and it spits out brown stuff. I don't know what
to do please help. Would I have done something to make it ill? <The
coral is more than likely expelling it's Zooanthellae. This occurs when
water conditions/parameters are not to it's liking. You mention nothing
of your water parameters and lighting so I cannot comment more on this.
Do read here and related articles/FAQ's on this subject.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/growingcorals.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Disintegrating Helio 12/19/07 Hi guys, another problem has
occurred. I have a Helio Fungia that has been doing very well for over
12 months. <Unusual for this genus/species... a poor survivor in
captivity> 3 or 4 days ago I moved a powerhead (Tunze) to change the
flow around a little. I noticed yesterday that my Helio was losing flesh
and that parts of the skeleton were showing. I thought maybe that the
flow had been too forceful and had torn the poor guy. I have 4
questions: 1. Would the force of the water be enough to do this? (the
Helio was on the opposite side of a 95 gallon tank to the Tunze and it
was "directly blasting it"). <Not likely... it would move if so>
2. If this was the cause will the Helio recover? <Not the cause
likely, nor recovery likely> 3. Is there anything else I can do for
it ( I have already moved it to a quieter part of the tank) and 4th.
<Possibly... Perhaps iodine/ide/ate administration... I don't proscribe
fragmentation of Heliofungia> If it is not going to make it, does it
pose health risks for other inhabitants? <In this size/volume, with
good filtration, circulation, not likely> I am quickly trying to put
a hospital tank together to move it to. Thanks once again (in
advance) for your wealth of knowledge. Olly <Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/fungiiddisfaqs.htm and the linked files above.
Bob Fenner>
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