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FAQs on Marine Algae Identification 30

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Related FAQs: Algae ID Visual Guide, Marine Algae ID 1, Marine Algae ID 2, Marine Algae ID 3, Marine Algae ID 4, Marine Algae ID 5, Marine Algae ID 6, Marine Algae ID 7, Marine Algae ID 8, Marine Algae ID 9, Marine Algae ID 10, Marine Algae ID 11, Marine Algae ID 12, Marine Algae ID 13, Marine Algae ID 14, Marine Algae ID 15, Marine Algae ID 16, Marine Algae ID 17, Marine Algae ID 18, Marine Algae ID 19, Marine Algae ID 20, Marine Algae ID 21, Marine Algae ID 21, Marine Algae ID 23, Marine Algae ID 24, Marine Algae ID 25, SW Algae ID 26, SW Algae ID 27, SW Algae ID 28, SW Algae ID 29, SW Algae ID 31, SW Algae ID 32, SW Algae ID 33, SW Algae ID 34, SW Algae ID 35SW Algae ID 36SW Algae ID 37SW Algae ID 38SW Algae ID 39& Marine Algae Control FAQs 2, Marine Algaecide Use, Nutrient Limitation, Marine Algae Eaters, Culturing Macro-Algae; Controlling: BGA/Cyano, Red/Encrusting Algae, Green Algae, Brown/Diatom Algae,

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Marine Aquarium Algae Control

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Re mystery "algae changed (and another question), blenny and Chelmon 2/20/2010
comp.
Dear Crew,
A couple of months ago I wrote to you with regard to a mysterious unwanted organism (photo attached). You felt it was most likely a cyanobacterium, despite it's only appearing as a discrete clump approximately a quarter inch at most, and my lack of water parameters that would be favorable for cyanoBACTERIA.
<The material on the outside is almost assuredly BGA, under though? Best guess is some sort of sponge material>
The clumps only had the reddish color on the outside, the inside being a translucent pale yellow, very easily compressed. Unfortunately, I have been unable to gain access to a microscope as you suggested. (I'd be happy to
mail you a sample....) The reason I am writing again is that it has changed it's appearance; at the same depth in the tank, all the clumps are now entirely the inner color of very pale yellow, no red exterior. Sorry, I cannot get a good picture of its new appearance as it is so translucent now. It grows on rock, sand, and on macroalgaes equally.
To recall the parameters of my tank: I have a Red Sea Max 65 gallon tank, lights on nine hours daily. Salinity is 35 ppt, temperature 80 degrees, pH 8.4, alkalinity 2.5 mEq/l, calcium 395 - 400 ppm, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphates all at zero ppm. The tank is now nearly at seven months in age. I have a three inch Tomini bristletooth tang, four one inch azure damsels, a three inch scooter dragonet, and just added a one inch Tailspot blenny. Additionally, I have a scroll coral, a just starting to grow chalice (Oxypora sp.?) fragment, a rescued piece of Pocillopora that seems to be regenerating, two very healthy pulsing Xenias (one white, one brown), a Kenya tree coral, a clump of Parazoanthus gracilis, numerous encrusting unidentified polyps, a long polyp toadstool coral, clove polyps, and a green devil's hand coral.
There are about six small unidentified hitchhiker crabs, four hermits, six assorted snails, plus a Sally Lightfoot that I bought, a skunk cleaner shrimp, a peppermint shrimp, two small horseshoe crabs, and two brittle stars. Also, there a good number of filter feeders such as tube worms, a tiny cucumber, two species of Vermetid snail, and several species of sponge (hitchhikers all) doing well, and several types of macroalgae. I feed a small amount of frozen brine shrimp twice a week to supplement the damsels' and tang's diet, and 5 ml of DT's phytoplankton daily. I am
keeping the calcium and alkalinity at current levels with Brightwell Aquatics two part calcium and buffer supplements.
The only thing that is unwanted are these clumps of (?). They remind me of tribbles. If it weren't for the color change, I'd assume you were right about them being cyanoBACTERIA clumps. But now I really am wondering. I am
at a loss as to what factor has changed; the only change is that a couple of months ago I started adding calcium (when I added the stony corals).
Another minor question; the Tailspot blenny seems to like being around the devil's hand soft coral; but as a result it isn't opening its' polyps. It will start, but then the blenny comes to visit and they close again. Is this going to harm the coral if it keeps up?
<Maybe>
Any ideas as to what to do?
<Mmm, either remove the Blenny or reconcile yourself to likely consequences>
Is there some sort of "home" he might be attracted to other than the coral?
<Try rearranging the rock would, adding some "tube like" spaces?>
There are plenty of holes, nooks and crannies already with all the live rock base....
<Then likely not>
One last question which I think I know the answer to - would I be foolish to add a small Copperband butterfly? I know it would likely eat the feather dusters, but might it be happy with just them if I feed a decent diet (feel free to suggest on that score)? I do not want to lose corals....
Thanks in advance for all the advice. Sincerely, Seth.
<See WWM re Chelmons, their compatibility etc.>
P.S.: Let me know if I can mail you a sample of the mystery clumps, I just removed as much as I could, but can never get them all so there will be more... You can have as much as you want!
<Heeee! No thanks. Bob Fenner>

a new algae? 2/11/10
Hello Bob,
<Miss T>
Do you recognize this algae? Also from Sulawesi....
I have two photo's more but this one is the most nice one.
Hope to hear from you
Tineke
<Don't know, but is a gorgeous Rhodophyte of some sort. BobF>

Unidentified Single Loop Tube, ID and growing Rhodophytes sans essential nutrients 2/10/10
Dear Crew!
<Tom>
I am a hardcore believer in researching and not taking the easy way out.
So believe me when I say I invested, not wasted, hours looking up more information about the little critter I have attached a photo of. First the facts I have a 75 gallon FOWLR tank with 80 lbs of live rock and the following stock:
Niger Trigger (temporary until I feel his new home is well establish enough
he's only two inches long).
Chocolate Chip Star (not my idea received as a gift/rescue).
Tiger Cowry (Same as above).
Twenty Hermits (Blue leg, red leg).
10 Nassarius Snails
10 Various other snails
Specs
Temp 75F
PH 8.1
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Phosphate 0
Calcium 425
I have a AquaC Remora Pro Skimmer
And four stage UV filtration system
First, what can I do to make my red macro, both pictures attached, grow?
<Need/s some/appreciable Phosphate and Nitrate among other possibilities...
Whatever you're doing to absolutely exclude, remove these needs to change>
It is turning clear and does not seem to be increasing in size at all. Second I only have two of these green loopy thingies, which I am sure is their proper name, should I removed them?
<Mmm, no... unless you're concerned re their proliferation. Are types of bubble algae... See WWM re>
They are bright green and there does not seem to be any tentacles, nets, fans etc., coming out in light or in the dark.
I attempted to get the best picture but the largest is not even pushing half an inch and they are almost transparent. Any help is appreciated. I am very grateful for the wonderful resource your site is to me consistently. Thank you. Thomas Mathews Horne
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

name of algae 2/8/10
Dear WWM crew,
<Tineke>
Still puzzling with this algae. It was taken in North Sulawesi. Is it a Udotea?
<Mmm, no... am pretty sure this is Lobophora variegata. Please see here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/brnalgae.htm>
There is few to find of this algae beside your site. Thank you for your perfect site! Very often I'm returning to your site to look for my algae puzzles..
Thanks you for answering my question.
Greetings from Holland
Tineke Smit
<And you! Bob Fenner>

Hair Algae? Making Me Crazy/Algae Control/Jack Daniels If You Please 2/4/10
Hey Crew,
<Hello Chris>
I know you here it over and over but all of you are awesome.
<Thank you.>
I have never seen a sight with so much information and so helpful. I use your sight constantly. I started my first saltwater tank in May and now have 3 tanks.
<Yowsie.>
My daughter and girlfriend and I love learning and caring for all of our new friends. The tank I need help with is our oldest one (only 9 months). It is a reef tank, 75 gallons with a 30 gallon sump. We have 4 actinics, 2 halides and at least 100 lbs of live rock. I check chemicals at least twice a week and always top off with RO. Ammonia and nitrite are always zero, pH is generally 8.4, alkalinity 8-9, CA 400-440 and temp 79-82. I battle nitrate now and then but in general it is around 5 almost never above 20. The tank has been pristine (I am probably one of the keepers you talk about that can't stop messing with the tank) but I am now waging war against some type of hair algae, I think. It grows rapidly on any live rock that has light exposure that doesn't already have a coral or anything living on it. I
have checked phosphate repeatedly but the test kit I have is very hard to tell color difference on.
<Yes, generally phosphate is absorbed by algae as soon as it forms. You likely wouldn't get a reading unless it was forming faster than the algae can absorb it.>
It seems like it is always at the lowest color. Yesterday I added a phosphate reactor and Phosban to the system. Whatever it is it creates a mat of brown particles that form in a mat over everything. It is concentrated more on the fibers of the algae though. I use a bulb syringe daily to break the mat apart and clean the rock.
<Mmm, go here, look anything similar to the pics? http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm>
The filtration removes them to the first particle filter which I change. In 24 hours it is all back and the hair gets longer. I looked at the brown seed like particles that form the mat under a microscope and they appear to move. It is green and brown and has what appears to be eye like spots. Is this algae or some type of worm and is it related to the hair or two separate issues?
<May be pods of some type.>
It is making me crazy and ruins the appearance of the tank.
Will the phosphate reactor solve the problem?
<Unlikely, a protein skimmer would do more for you here than anything else. You do not mention the use of one so I'll assume you do not have one. It appears you have excess nutrients in the water and with the presence of good
lighting as you have will accelerate the growth. Steps to eliminate/control the problem can be found in the links below.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm>
I have attached a photo of the algae. You can see the brown green particles on the left under the clam in the algae.
<Not really resolved enough for me to see any detail, but it appears to be nuisance algae.>
The algae is dark green with a bluish streak at the center of the filament. I have read tons of your articles and Bobs book on invertebrates. I can't find anything that specifically addresses my issue. Help!
<See/read all related info contained in the links above and implement the advice. This problem is not going to go away overnight, as it didn't start overnight. It will take time and patience. James (Salty Dog)>
Chris
Terrels
<<Mmm, no... this is a Chlorophyte... Likely Bryopsis. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/BryopsisF.htm
and the linked files above. RMF>>

Re Hair Algae? Making Me Crazy/Algae Control/Jack Daniels If You Please 2/5/10
Wow you guys are amazing. Super fast response.
<You're welcome.>
This is the picture on the FAQ you sent me that looks most like what I have.
Here is another photo from my tank. Sorry couldn't get a clear shot.
Is this Bryopsis or Derbesia. I couldn't tell from the FAQ?
<Yours or the FAQ picture? Mr. Fenner believes what you have is Bryopsis.
Read FAQ's here for help/advice. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/grnalgcontfaqs4.htm>
Are the pods what new hair is growing from?
<No, and it was just a suggestion. Without actually seeing it/them makes it nearly impossible to ID.>
Should I continue the attack on them?
<On the algae, yes, implement what you have read and read above link.>
OK so a few more facts for you and then what I think my game plan should be. If you could just tell me if I am on the right path that would be great.
<As above.>
I do run a Super Skimmer. It produces about 3 inches of Skimmate per week.
<Cleaning the riser/reaction chamber every couple of days will increase efficiency of the skimmer.>
I also use a UV sterilizer that dumps into carbon media.
I have a Sohal, a Kohle <Kole>, two Percula Clowns, Foxface, Bicolor Pygmy Angel and a Niger Triggerfish. All are small less than two and half inches. I also have 3 shrimp and a Tridacna. Corals are Pulsing Xenia (over taking the tank) Frogspawn, various mushrooms and elephant ear.
<Too much load for this system which in turn promotes excess nutrients, and most of your fish will need larger quarters in the near future.>
I feed once a day 1 cube of Formula 2 and one cube of Formula B. I used to feed twice but have been trying to limit nutrients for over two months.
Should I feed less? They devour it in 2 minutes and still seem hungry. I am worried they aren't getting enough.
<I wouldn't feed two cubes at once. Spread it out over three daily feedings.>
Should I switch them to flakes? Is this less nutrient input?
<Would be less nutritional. Frozen foods will generally produce more waste in the water unless rinsed in a net prior to feeding. You might give the New Life Spectrum Pellets a try. A very nutritional food with little waste, is all I feed.>
Rest of my plan, yes or no?
Switch out my actinics -- 9 months old.
<I would not use this lighting for now, especially with four of them in a 75 gallon tank. Actinic lighting peaks in the mid 400nm range and can promote algae growth. There is enough blue present in your MH lamps to promote
photosynthesis for other light loving animals. If anything, cut it down to one or two actinics.>
Do I need to switch the halide bulbs also?
<I don't know, they are generally effective in the rated Kelvin temperature for a year.>
Decrease halide time from 8 hours to 6. (actinics run 12)
<Halides are fine, I'd decrease the actinic photoperiod to a couple of hours before the halides come on and turn back on for a couple of hours just before the halides turn off.
Remove the rock -- again! And scrub in RO.
<No, do not do this, you will be killing other life present in the rock.>
Continue to blow off the pods daily with a bulb syringe.
<?>
What about raising the light unit higher? It is about 8 inches above the tank now.
<Is fine.>
Continue to use the phosphate reactor.
<Might as well, you bought it.>
Is this enough or should also try the pH increase and the ferric oxide?
<????. PhosBan is a synthetic ferric oxide.
Leave pH alone and read/act where you were sent.>
Again thank you!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Chris Terrels

Re Hair Algae? Making Me Crazy/Algae Control/Jack Daniels If You Please 2/5/10
Thanks James!
<You're welcome, Chris.>
Are you guys funded by sponsors, donations or both?
<A little of both, and I believe some may come out of Bob's wallet. What say you, Bob? We are strictly a non-profit organization, the crew's time is donated, no paychecks given out here.>
<<Not money from me, but perhaps its equivalent, time, effort. Most of the incoming monies are from commercial sponsors who believe in what we do (educating, inspiring their present, future customer base); and most outgoing is for content; principally our on-line 'zine. RMF>>
I would like to contribute to your cause if you are donation based.
<Great, and will be appreciated. Go to this link, scroll down to the bottom of the page where you will
see a donate tab. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/question_page.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Chris Terrels

New Print and eBook on Amazon

Marine Aquarium Algae Control

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

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