FAQs about the Yellow-Tail Blue, Palette,
Hippo Tang Disease Treatments
FAQs on Paracanthurus Tang Disease:
PYTB Tang Disease 1,
Pacific YTB Tang Disease 2,
PYTB Tang Disease 3,
Pacific YTB Disease 4,
YTBT Health 5,
YTBT Health 6,
YTBT Disease 7,
YTBT Disease 8,
YTBT Disease 9, YTBT Disease ,
& Tangs/Rabbitfishes &Crypt,
FAQs on Paracanthurus Tang Disease by Category:
Diagnosis, Environmental,
Nutritional, Social,
Trauma, Pathogenic (plus
see
Tangs/Rabbitfishes &
Crypt), Genetic,
Related Articles: The
Genus Paracanthurus,
Related FAQs: Pacific YTB Tang FAQs
1, Pacific YTB Tang FAQs
2, Pacific YTB Tang FAQs 3,
Pacific YTB Disease 4, Pacific YTB Tang FAQs 4, YTBT Health 5, YTBT
Health 6, PYTB Tang ID,
PYTB Tang Behavior, PYTB Tang Compatibility, PYTB Tang Selection, PYTB Tang Systems, PYTB Tang Feeding, PYTB Tang Reproduction, Surgeons In General, Tang
ID, Selection,
Tang
Behavior, Compatibility, Systems, Feeding, Disease,
|
|
Surgeonfishes: Tangs for Marine Aquariums
Diversity, Selection & Care
New eBook on Amazon: Available
here
New Print Book on Create Space: Available
here
by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
|
Question; moving, acclimating Paracanthurus
4/6/13
Hi there,
Thank you for taking the time to answer questions and provide a resource
for all people in this hobby.
I have a question about moving a Blue Hippo Tang from my old tank to a
new tank in my house. The six inch Tang is currently living in an
uncomfortable/stressful 55 gallon tank. The Tang is moving into a
much more comfortable 180 gallon aquarium. I am not sure how to
move the Tang. I think bagging and floating and acclimating may be
too stressful, so I was wondering if you think it may be better to try
and match the water
quality between the two tanks and then just drop him in the 180 gallon?
Or perhaps I should just bag him?
<I would move this fish in a doubled "fish bag" of size... catch it with
two nets, one for guiding... watch your hands... the tang and dorsal and
anal fin spines are painful to get stuck by>
If I were to match the water in the tanks, I was thinking salinity,
temperature, and pH would be the most important. The 180 gallon is
perfect
on all measurements (very proud of that), the 55 has very high nitrates
and will be dismantled after the move.
Thank you and I appreciate any input.
Craig
<Please read here re marine acclimation:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm
Bob Fenner>
Re: after Ich outbreak -update; Paracanthurus hlth. mostly
2/20/13
hello crew,
<Andrei>
The things have settled since my outbreak. The tank remained fallow for
4 weeks now ( 7 weeks including the time that there were only 2 Firefish
gobies in there that are now in a friends already populated tank and
doing ok, so they were not hosting Ich ).
<Not so; these Microdesmids should have been removed... were acting as
reservoir hosts>
All the corals ( including some new SPS) and invertebrates are doing
great.
And now, 2 days ago the first 3 new fishes arrived. There were QT`s
waiting for them, already cycled, with live rock, for the Chelmon
Rostratus was even a big rock full of Aiptasia from a friend that he is
enjoying a lot.
Baths with freshwater and blue methyled were made. Except for a
beautiful Paracanthurus Hepatus Yellow Belly that was almost finished
when I opened the bag ( 6 hours drive from the closest LFS).
<Wow!>
He was laying on a side and not looking good. I resisted the temptation
to put him directly in the QT and started an acclimatization for him
that took 40-50 minutes, but skipped the bath because I thought he would
not make it.
I was thinking that if he dos make it he will have the bath after 4
weeks in quarantine before going to the DT.
<Good>
After introduction in the QT that had an air pump and good water and
hiding places he just laid on one side for the rest of the night. In the
morning he was crawled under some rocks. When I lifted one of the rocks
he came up and toured the 40 gallons aquarium and then hidden again.
All he dose now is sitting in there, and trying all the time to go even
further under the rock even if there is no room.
<Not to worry. Don't disturb this fish; it will be fine>
The QT`s are in the garage, well heated, under a window, so all day
nobody bothers them, there is dawn, really nice daylight lighting and
quiet.
But he doesn't seem to ever get out from there. Not to speak about
eating something... It has been 2 days already, what should I do? He is
really beautiful.
thank you
Andrei
<Just be patient... being moved, being oxygen starved, being placed in a
small transparent container... are all frightening. Bob Fenner>
Sick Blue tang... no rdg., mis-using WWM
6/13/2011
Hi Guys,
<19 megs of pix... DO pls follow instructions... no one has
responded as your files are too large>
I have a Blue Hippo Tang that has brown spots on the black area
between his tail and blue oval.
<Stress markings>
I have had him in my 30 gal. qt for about a month trying to
diagnose and treat him.
<Place this fish in a proper environment>
I've use 1 cycle of furan-2,
<Of no use here>
several fresh water dips, and am now using copper.
<An exceedingly poor idea w/ Acanthuroids... much too toxic.
Not only have you abused our mail server w/ too much blurry pix,
you haven't read on WWM ahead of writing us>
Please see the above photos. I realize they aren't the best.
The brown spots are flat and look like mud or dirt spots. The
fish eats a ton and acts healthy. I would greatly appreciate you
opinion.
Best regards,
Todd Zevchik
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/paradisf6.htm
and all the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
|
|
re: Sick Blue tang.... still not reading
6/13/2011
Sorry about the pics. My computer is having some problems. I did
read before I sent an email, but didn't find a specific
enough answer. Do you suggest removing the copper (dosed at
1.5)?
<... Please just read where you've been referred to... NO
free copper period is advised w/ this fish, these fishes>
Should I place him in my main tank as is?
<Yes I would>
Thanks,
Todd Zevchik
<BobF>
re: Sick Blue tang 6/13/2011
Thank you for your help and information.
Thanks,
Todd Zevchik
<Welcome. B>
|
Hippo tang acclimation 1/3/11
Hi Crew
<Hello Jim>
I have just run my main tank fallow for 5 weeks to reduce parasites to
a minimum after and Ich infestation claimed my previous livestock.
I have had a flashback gramma and a hippo tang in quarantine for 6
weeks.
Today I put them both (disease free) into the main tank.
Straight away the hippo tang has made for some rock work and has not
moved all day. He was displaying this in the Q tank and he has done
this before as the Q tank was only 15 gallon and the gramma was a bit
boisterous.
Should I be concerned the tang is sick? I know hippo tangs are very
timid on introduction...
<I would not be concerned... Paracanthurus DO hide a great deal on
introduction. It may not come out much at all for the next few days. I
urge patience. Bob Fenner>
Your thoughts please
Jim
Re: Hippo tang acclimation 1/4/11
Hi Bob
<Howdy Jim>
Thanks for the feedback. Tang has come out briefly today but is still
hiding
and breathing quite heavy. I did read on your site you do not recommend
quarantining this fish. Is this correct?
<Generally the case, yes. A decision that one must make w/ each
specimen... whether the duration and stress of quarantine is likely to
"get you more" (or save you more) than cursory dip/bathing.
Tangs in general are a family of fishes that straddle the line here...
often delaying their placement results in more trouble,
morbidity/mortality than simpler preventative MOs>
Your thoughts please.
Jim
<Is this clear, complete? BobF>
Re: Hippo tang acclimation 1/4/11
Yes Thanks Bob
<Welcome>
The tang still displays clear stressful behavior and the rapid
breathing is a concern. I think at this case it's a wait and see
approach.
<Good. Is what I would definitely do>
Thankfully so far the main display seems to be Ich free.
<Ah good. BobF>
Re: Hippo tang acclimation 1/5/11
Hi Bob
<Jim>
The tang has thankfully come out to feed now. However it has developed
Ich again (I think). I am dismayed as the main tank was left fallow for
a month and the tang was totally parasite free when it was placed in
the display tank.
<I would not over-react here. Would leave this fish where it
is>
Currently it only has a dusting of 4-6 tiny spots and they are
virtually unnoticeable. I fear putting it back into the QT tank is
counter productive as it will probably stress it too much.
<These spots may well not be Ich... even Crypt is not
"spots", but the host fish's mucus reaction to
irritation. Again, I urge patience. BobF>
Your thoughts please.
Thanks
Re: Hippo tang acclimation 1/6/11
Thanks again for your advice Bob
<Mmm, am not inclined to actually give advice; rather, just state
what I'd likely do given the information presented and what I
"know">
Sadly I woke up this morning and the tang has more spots. The royal
Gramma is unaffected. This does look like an Ich infestation.
<So?>
Clearly the Ich in my tank is still present. Perhaps four weeks was not
long enough.
<Perhaps>
Isolating the tang again doesn't seem a good idea at present do you
feel?
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/parasittkfaq2.htm
and the linked files above. Maybe adding a biological cleaner would be
of use here>
Rather let nature take its course. I fear a total strip down may be
necessary.
Many thanks Jim
<Welcome. B>
Re: Hippo tang acclimation 1/6/11
Thanks for the links Bob
<Welcome>
Have digested/cogitated before and still again.
If I remember rightly the last Regal tang I had in my old tank broke
out with Ich, but it made it through with the help of a UV sterilizer
(and the removal of a bullying Trigger). I am currently dosing ozone
instead, but may add a UV to assist (the only problem is they push my
temperature up too high in summer months).
Just to be sure of your opinion would you leave the fish and make sure
parameters are optimal? I really am a little frustrated that I have
followed the gold standard of QT and letting go fallow and been
rewarded like this.
<I would very likely just leave all there for now>
It is this experienced hobbyists opinion that even an apparent
'fallowed' tank still retains some Ich protozoa ready to attack
compromised/stressed fish.
<Yes it is generally>
Regards Jim
<And you, B>
... Hippo tang, Crypt 1/8/11
Hi Bob
<J>
Just to keep you informed. The tang continues to suffer with Ich (4
days after introduction) . He feeds ok and the royal gramma is
seemingly unaffected still.
<Ok>
As I only have one quarantine tank (which is full with a maroon clown
and some neon gobies) and a fish trap what do you suggest is the best
long term solution in my display now?
<... still reading, just waiting>
I am still dosing ozone and am tempted with a UV.
<Have any idea what your RedOx is?>
Many many thanks.... I still have your conscientious marine aquarist
book.
It is however well studied and falling apart a bit.
<Mine too. BobF>
Blue Hippo Tang Quarantine tank 12/2/10
Good Afternoon Crew,
First of all, I would like to thank all of your efforts and hard work
which allow hobbyists such as I to have access to the vast knowledge,
experience, and information that all of you poses.
<Welcome>
I purchased a 2-2.5 inch Blue Hippo Tang yesterday evening, and after
bringing him home, I gave him a 10 minute fresh water bath,
<pH adjusted?>
and set him in my 10 gallon quarantine tank. My quarantine tank is just
a bare-bottom 10 gallon with a hang-on filter and a heater. At first he
ran to the corner and settled down, breathing quite heavy. I assumed it
was normal behavior for a stressed fish, and let him be. I realized now
that I should have turned the lights off in his tank, to help calm him
a bit more.
The lights were on in his tank for approximately another 3 hours, and
when I went to go turn them off, I noticed he was wedged behind my
heater and the pipe from the filter.
<Typical behavior>
Started by this, I swished some water on to him to check if he was
still alive, and realized then that he was probably just looking for a
place to hide, so I threw in a small rock, and led him to it, so that
he could hide
inside. I turned off the lights, hoping to greet him in the morning
with some food.
When I saw him in the morning, he was still hiding behind the rock, in
a very particular position. He was hanging vertically, with his head
facing the bottom of the tank, and was still breathing quite
heavily.
<Not unusual>
Disappointed by his lack of adjustment into my tank, I tried to feed
him some HBH veggie flakes anyway. He didn't even seem like he
noticed, although my false percula clown (in the main tank) goes gaga
for them.
He is still hanging in that vertical position, and now I am wondering
if its because the bare-bottom of my tank is creating a
"mirror" effect, and he thinks there is another blue tang
there?
<Mmm, no; not likely>
I'm assuming this isn't normal behavior, even for a stressed
tang, to be swimming in such a position?
<Not unusual>
Even for the few seconds that he left the rock and swam out for a bit,
he was still hanging vertically, with his face to the bottom, and as
soon as he spotted me, ran back around and behind the rock once
again.
Water levels:
Ph: 8.1Nitrites: 0Ammonia: less than 0.3 Salinity: 1.023
<Mmm, I'd raise this>
Temp: 77
After putting him into the quarantine tank, I looked at your "
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/paracant.htm"
section, which states not to quarantine blue tangs due to the stress
levels that all the moving may cause. Should I not have put him into
the quarantine first?
<Only if you had concerns... By and large I dip/bath and place this
species sans quarantine. Most all that can/could be gained by isolation
is provided for in dipping (removal of external parasites)>
Forgive me for the long read, I am just trying to supply as many
details as possible.
Thank you in advance for your response,
Cheers,
Fahd.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
HLE Suggestions 5/15/10
I have a 90 gallon SW tank, 100 #'s live rock, 4" DSB. Up
since Jan (was established before then with prior owner) You guys
have helped me through Quinine Sulfate treatment on my Blue Tang,
THANKS! Now the same tang appears to have HLE.
<Appears to be the beginnings of>
When I first got the fish it would not touch Nori, he ate any
frozen food, and flakes, no pellets. I've fed a variety of
Mysis, frozen form 2, Spirulina brine, marine cuisine, and 1 and 2
flakes. I finally got him eating purple sea veggies brand Nori
about 2 weeks ago (the same time the first spots of HLE had shown
up) Last week I got Selcon and vita Chem, and am soaking food in
one of those each day (rotating).
<Good>
I also purchased Emerald Cuisine Frozen (he likes) and Spectrum
pellets (which it doesn't seem to eat).
<Give this time>
I added a grounding probe,
<Mmm, usually not of use>
I do weekly PWC's of about 6 gallons. I run a smallish skimmer
and a UV, along with a Tidepool sump. I use Seachem's phos
guard, as well as Purigen. My water tests Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, and
Nitrates are now 0 (used to run around 10-20). I'm wondering
what I'm missing to help the fish,
<Likely just time going by... though DSB, "mud" use
can be useful adjuncts>
I tried to attach a picture but he dives in the rock when I get the
camera out. Do I need to treat for a bacterial infection?
<No>
Any suggestions are welcome. I do have a QT cycled and running with
a gramma and 2 Sharknose gobies, they've been in QT for 3 weeks
doing well. I "could"
move them to the DT if I need to treat the tang in the QT.
Thanks, Pam Speck
<I would just continue w/ your current practices; not move,
"treat". Bob Fenner> |
|
Dying tang? 3/1/10
Hello all
<Hi>
Whatever help you can give me I would appreciate.
I have attached a picture of my 1 inch blue tang.
I have small yellow tang, clown, and my blue tang in a 10g QT. (I
know very small, but all I have).
My new blue tang developed ich, The other two fish are fine,
never showed signs of ich and are doing well overall.
Wk 1: they took out the live rock and carbon filter to treat with
rid-ich and hyposalinity, seemed to work.... (I tried to get
Chloroquine phosphate, but no one had it).
<Hypo and Rid-ich together is probably very rough on the
fish.>
Wk 2: Put carbon back
We went away this weekend, had a friend do a water change (this
is how we have been battling ammonia) 50-70-% water changes daily
also used AmQuel+ 3x (LFS said it was safe and would remove the
ammonia while we were away).
When we came home the ammonia was .5 ppm (mg/L).
<Could be a false reading from the AmQuel, but do more water
changes.>
We came home and my blue tang looks like it has petechiae/
bleeding under the skin/ small red spots.
<Water quality.>
He looks a little better today, looked like he had a bloody
scrape yesterday that looks better today but not sure if this is
due to the ammonia from this weekend or if he has a bacterial
infection.
<Could be a combination of both.>
Ever since the ich, he hides whenever I come around, wedging
himself under the PVC tubing I put in there for them.
<Stressed.>
Is 4 wks long enough to wait for my display tank to go fallow or
do I have to wait for 6wks, my Qt is so small...
<I would move him back now, 6 weeks would be better but you
risk losing this fish in the QT here.>
Lastly, I noticed a bunch of small (2mm)white bugs on the back of
my DT.
I tried to take a pic but they are too small to really see except
when moving. is it ok to assume they are some small benign
copepod?
<I would.>
I know its bad, please help
Alice
<I would move this fish back now, the risk of staying in the
QT outweighs the risk of ich in the main tank in my
opinion.>
<Chris>
|
This fish is fine. RMF |
Regal Tang Breathing Problem 8/5/09
Hello All,
<Hi Adrian>
I have a small regal tang (3 inches roughly?) that was first in my
quarantine before my display. It was in there approximately 5 weeks,
and I had used PraziPro for 2-3 days... did a water change.... then did
a treatment with Cupramine because it had ich from the transport from
the store to home...
<Fish do not contract ich on the way home, this fish had the
infection before it left the store. Why did you use PraziPro
(Praziquantel), did your diagnosis indicate the need for this
particular med? This medication is generally used for treating flukes,
flatworms and Turbellarians, and treating tapeworms in our four legged
pets. The recommended 5-7 day treatment isn't nearly long enough to
effectively eradicate ich, generally 21-28 days to ensure an entire
kill. Did you monitor the Cupramine level with a test kit? Although a
little safer than copper, the toxic level of Cupramine is 8mg/L with
the minimal effective dose being 2-3 mg/L. Tangs are very sensitive to
copper and therefore should be treated at the 2-3mg/L level. Another
problem I see is combining medications, no other medication should be
used with Praziquantel. I'm sure your water change did not remove
all of it.>
After all of that, I noticed the fish had HLLE ( vitamin lack I
believe... I try).
<And water quality.>
I then proceeded immediately to order Selcon, Boyd's Vita Chem, and
Zoecon.
I mix those into it's food now in a small dish with water, as well
as add some drops to the water.
<One is all that's needed.>
My question is - the fish seems to be breathing a lot faster than
normal.
Did the Cupramine destroy it's breathing ability? I don't know
what to do in order to judge if it's breathing is too fast - or if
the Cupramine made it always breathe this fast.
<I'm guessing the fish is no longer with you by now. The rapid
breathing is an indication that the gills are infested with the ich
parasite causing the fish difficulty in breathing.
Generally the last symptom before death.>
The rate at which it is breathing is doesn't seem to vary much. I
can't judge how many times it's moving its gills, (but it would
be as if the fish swam very fast across the tank and then stopped).
I should note that I am writing this only a few hours after adding it
to my main display. It was in a 40 gallon tall quarantine tank
previously.
<Why on earth did you move an infected fish into your display
tank?>
I have a 125 gallon display with 2 false clowns, and a 90 gallon sump.
The clowns seem to have befriended it.. and they are hanging out as a
group now.
Water parameters would be considered "normal".
<Mmm, I don't know what you consider normal.>
Any advice? I'm trying but I don't know what else to do other
than vitamins, lots of Nori ( it isn't finding it on the clip ) and
water quality.
<In the future, properly diagnose the disease before selecting a
treatment.
Dosing medication that will not be effective will just further stress
out an already stressed
out fish. Do read here and related FAQ's. Will help you in
selecting healthy fish and in diagnosing disease and proper
treatment.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisease.htm. Also read here on
quarantine.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i4/quarantine/Quarantine.htm>
Appreciated...
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Adrian,
Re: Regal Tang Breathing Problem 8/05/09
Hi James,
<Hello Adrian>
I'll go ahead and answer your responses if you don't mind.
<Not a bit.>
I didn't mean to say the fish contracted ich purely on the ride
home - I did the treatment because I did see ich but also as a
preventive with tangs.
<OK>
As for PraziPro... I had read that PraziPro can be used safely as a
preventative measure as well, so that was the reason I had used it for
3 days before doing water changes to start the Cupramine treatment.
There was no intention of eradicating ich with this, but rather to be
sure it wasn't flukes (shook head side to side in QT - could have
been ich causing this as well).
<Would have been better just to start with the Cupramine.>
The Cupramine worked very well and all white spots were gone. The
treatment lasted 15 days at .5ml and then I did many water changes.
<Good to hear.>
I observed the fish for another 1-2 weeks and saw no signs of the ich
so that is why I put the fish into the main tank.
<Now it makes sense. Wish your email would have had this information
from the start.>
I had also read that copper can cause a fish to breathe faster, along
with having HLLE and water quality - so I assumed the main tank
environment along with other fish and a proper diet would help settle
it down. I still have the fish and it was breathing slower last night,
or at least varying it's breathing rate from what it was
before.
<Good, and hoping the tang makes it. Is it eating well?>
Water parameters are:
1.025
dKH 7.5
Ca: 460
MG: 1400
PH 8.2-3
Nitrates: undetectable
<Sounds good.>
So just wanted to clarify a few things...
<I'm glad you did. You may want to increase your water quality
by filtering the water through Chemi-Pure. Do you have good water flow,
say about 10x your total tank volume? Tangs do prefer good flow rates.
You never mentioned your tank size, type of filtering, etc.,
makes it difficult to see the whole picture.>
Thank You,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Adrian
Re: Regal Tang Breathing Problem 8/6/09
Hello Again,
<Hi Adrian>
Thanks for the prompt reply.
<Welcome.>
I did mention my tank size in the first email I believe,
<Yes, you did, sorry.>
however it is a 125 gallon with a 90 gallon sump and a 20 gallon
skimmer box. I have 2 MP20 Vortechs in the tank with a Mag 9 return
pump. I think I am going to get a Mag 12 to "up" the
flow.
<You have an adequate flow rate with what you have. The MP20's
are impressive, very well made and expensive.>
On a side note - The tang isn't seeing the Nori I am putting in so
I have moved it's position near it's hiding cave. I did place
the Nori on the sand but my turbo snail mowed it down first...
<If it is eating other foods, it may well recover. I have had very
healthy tangs that would not touch Nori and then some that did.>
I am also adding 4-5 drops of Zoecon to the water daily to help fight
HLLE.
I then rotate Boyd's Vita Chem and Selcon in the flake/frozen
food.
All The Best
<Ditto. James (Salty Dog)>
Adrian
Re: Regal Tang Breathing Problem 8/6/09
James.. you won't believe this....
<I bet I will.>
I saw my tang lining itself up in front of a rock and then.... you
guessed it.... flashing it's side on the rock a few times... I
can't believe it. I went 3 months with a fallow tank...
hyposalinity for my 2 clowns... Cupramine at the proper dosage.. and
now this.
<I'm certain the tank was clean after three months. The disease
was introduced into the system by some means.>
I certainly cannot tear down the entire tank again. Do you have any
suggestions as to what I can properly do to combat this? I know the odd
tang will scratch in real life and not have ich... but I'm not
certain with this one. I also know that skunk cleaner shrimp do NOT get
rid of ich under the skin, but could they help alleviate some
"annoyances" the tang has?
<Likely not enough to matter, as you say, they will not eliminate
the parasite but may alleviate some discomfort.
My suggestion would be to quarantine all fish and maintain treatment
dosage for 28 days.
This will ensure all hatching cysts will be killed. Copper/Cupramine
has no killing effect on the unhatched cysts and is why a 28 day
treatment plan is advised. As long as no fish are present in your
display tank, the parasitic infestation should cure itself in five
weeks. The ich parasites will die soon if no host is present. Any nets
or other cleaning tools should be sterilized in a solution of 20%
chlorine bleach and 80% water. We do not want to transfer any disease
into the display tank by way of implements. Have you read here?
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm>
Thanks for all your help
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Adrian,
Re: Regal Tang Breathing Problem 8/7/09
Hi James,
<Adrian>
There are only 2 possible solutions then. The hyposalinity treatment
either did not work (months ago),
<No guarantee's here, just a preferred first step.>
or the Cupramine treatment did not work. With that said, I did properly
calibrate the refractometer before I performed hypo on my clownfish.
They stayed in there for 3 months! Tank had no fish...
As for the new tang - I only held Cupramine for 15 days because the
bottle says 14 days and then get all of the chemicals out of the tank.
Are you saying that I should extend Cupramine treatment for 28 days at
.5 ?
<To ensure a total kill, yes.>
Other than that, I do not how to transfer the fish from the QT to the
main tank? I simply used a clean net (after Cupramine treatment) and
netted the fish, then let it down into the main tank. All of this of
course, under the presumption that the ich was killed off, and not
thinking ich could attach to the net during a transfer..
<The parasite can attach to and be transmissible by any wet object.
Is a good practice to make sure the net used is sterile before
transferring the fish back into the display tank. I say this only
because some folks have multiple systems and may use an infected net in
"clean" tanks.>
On a side note - the fish is still breathing slower, no more
scratching, and one tiny white dot I did see near it's tail is no
longer there (hard to tell otherwise.. you think you see little white
dots under the skin from certain angles) I'm not certain as to
whether or not it was ich because I have seen little particles stuck on
a fish for some time and then when the fish swims fast or changes
direction suddenly it clearly falls off. So I'm quite stumped as to
how the ich got back in the tank... sigh.
<I'm thinking you did not read the article I linked you to. Will
explain the life cycle of
the parasite. Also go to and read the links posted at the end of the
article, "Steven Pro's excellent ich articles".>
I think catching them all again would be very stressful? I also do not
know how to measure the Cupramine levels in the quarantine tank once a
water change is done.
<You must use SeaChem's test kit, it is designed for Cupramine.
The tests should be taken twice daily to ensure and effective dose is
always present.
There are different copper test kits on the market, some measure
copper, some measure chelated copper. Using one of the later kits can
result in erroneous readings.>
This could of contributed to the original HLLE on the tang.
<?>
I had gotten the copper level correct measuring with SeaChem's
test.. and then left it at that because I wanted to be certain the
copper level always remained around .5.
<Ah, good, you do have the SeaChem kit. Again, test twice daily to
ensure the recommended dose is present.>
If you could offer some advice that would be great.
<I had given you plenty of advice, read the articles I linked you
to, more reading,
less writing. There is no easy way out.>
I think for now since the tang is calming down.. I am going to leave
them in the main tank for now, using garlic and vitamins boosters... as
well as add a couple cleaner shrimp to help with some alleviation.. if
it doesn't re-occur then it should be alright... if not... I'll
have to net them again.
<OK, you're call. James (Salty Dog)>
Adrian
Re: Regal Tang Breathing Problem/Not Reading/Remembering
8/8/09
So if I understand you correctly James in regards to transferring the
fish,
I should:
1) Net fish from QT
2) Place fish in bucket or some sort of transfer holding tank
3) Sterilize net (while fish waits in bucket)?
4) Scoop fish from bucket and place into DT?
<I've only mentioned item 3. You are making this more difficult
than it actually is. All I was eluding to is not to use a
"dirty" net in other tanks to prevent disease transmission.
We have already been through sterilization a few threads back. My
personal method is to keep my net in a container of Methylene blue and
fresh water for a few days after use, then rinse, and hang to
dry.>
Wouldn't the parasites fall into the water (in the bucket from)
when being transferred from the quarantine tank?
<When the transfer occurs, there shouldn't be any parasites in
the quarantine tank if treated properly.>
Then when I scoop the fish from the bucket they would re-attach
themselves to the sterilized net? I'm not sure why I'm having a
hard time getting the right steps down.
<Same as above.>
I did read the article, perhaps just so much information at once :)
I was also under the impression that using Cupramine for over 14 weeks
would permanently damage the fish. Otherwise I would have used
treatment longer.
<If the Cupramine dosage is maintained for 28 days, the disease
should be eradicated.
My addition amounts to 4 weeks. You need to go over the links I've
provided, all information is
explained very clearly. We just do not have the time to take
individuals by the hand and walk them through everything when the
referenced information explains all.
We are all volunteers here at Wet Web Media, and our time spent
answering queries is usually limited to a couple of hours a
day.>
Regards,
<Ditto. James (Salty Dog)>
Adrian
Re: Blue Tang Not Acting Quite Right 05/19/09
Hello again,
<Hello Becky>
Thank you so much for your quick reply!
<We try.>
My dad just got back from the store a while ago with a 2-gallon plastic
tank. I know it isn't much, but it is something. We have filled it
with the water from the main tank and have put Dory the Second in
(haha! Yes I know, the "second". I hope my parents will take
your advice on not getting a third).
<Please do put some pressure on them about not getting a third. This
fish really should be returned to the fish store when recovered. It is
much too large for a fifty gallon tank. Additionally, this two gallon
tank is not going to work for long term quarantine. Not only will the
water quickly become toxic from the waste produced by this fish, but it
is too small psychologically, even in the short term of a few weeks.
Consider a twenty gallon tank or so the absolute minimum for
quarantining small tangs.>
Now that my dad has moved her to the Q Tank, we can see her better and
she's gotten worse from being up against that Power Head. Hopefully
now she'll be able to recover that she's alone.
<Likely it was the other tang that was damaging your blue tang. Once
recovered please either return the blue tang to the fish store, or find
a much larger home for this fish.>
<<It will never recover here. RMF>>
No matter what happens, we have learned from this experience. Even
though I'll be sad when I see Dory #2 on the bottom of the Q Tank
(which I'm sure will happen soon) I know that with each mistake,
wisdom is gained.
<I hope so.>
And besides, we got a quarantine tank out of this! :)
Anyway, thanks for your advice!
~Becky
<Your welcome Becky and good luck
Josh Solomon>
Hippo\Regal Tang Health: Quarantine 3/26/2009
Hi Crew,
<Hi Alex>
I just discovered your site and the amazing amount of information it
contains, what a wonderful resource for those of us seeking
knowledge!!
<Happy to hear you find it useful!>
I've spent the last eight hours reading through numerous threads
and I only wish I had found your site prior to purchasing a Blue Hippo
Tang; for now I realize the mistakes I have made up to this point, and
I could have surely avoided what might turn into a big problem.
<Ok, lets see what the problem is.>
I have a 125 gallon tank with a 25 gallon sump, mostly fish and a few
corals (Xenia and Zoanthids.) I never realized the importance of a QT
for new arrivals until now, you have truly enlightened me to the point
of change.
<Sadly, this is a lesson that is usually learned the hard
way.>
My question is regarding the Blue Hippo I purchased yesterday. Prior to
purchasing I did a little research (not enough) regarding
compatibility, diet, behavior, and general info on this beautiful fish
and decided he would be a acceptable addition to my tank. I read they
are more susceptible to marine ich than most so I was careful to make
sure he looked healthy before purchasing and was assured by the LFS
owner that the fish was quarantine for several weeks upon arriving in
his store,
and has been eating and healthy for 2 additional weeks since leaving
quarantine.
<Sounds encouraging so far.>
As he was ringing me up he went into long detail about drip acclimating
(which I always do for several hours already) and feeding the fish with
garlic soaked food to prevent an ich outbreak.
<I personally have doubts about garlic preventing Ich.>
Garlic was a new one to me so I wasn't sure what to make of it, but
the LFS owner swore by it and told me all the success he has had in the
past treating ich using garlic, so I purchased a bottle.
<Fair enough, it certainly cannot hurt.>
On the drive home the excitement of purchasing the fish started to wear
off and I started to get a little nervous. All this talk of ich and
preventative garlic and previous ich in the LFS was far different from
any previous fish purchase I have made and
it began to spook me a bit.
<Understandably>
Upon getting home I got even more nervous when I noticed the Tang had
gotten kind of scraped up during his attempt to avoid being netted at
the LFS (he tried to hide by wedging himself under a rock.)
<Very common>
When I started the drip acclimation, I decided it might not be a bad
idea to try do something now to help prevent my new little buddy from
getting ich, so I thought adding some medication to the water might not
be a bad idea.
<It was a bad idea.>
Since it was 7:30 pm by this time I had to go with what I had on hand,
which left two choices: Copper or Acriflavine. I figured Copper might
be too harsh and stressful since he wasn't showing any signs of ich
and would be in the acclimation tank for the next few hours so I went
with the Acriflavine which I had used with success in the past on
Discus and was also for marine use.
<It does not treat Ich>
I added a few drops at a time to make sure he didn't negatively
react (in an obvious way) to the medicine until I got to about 1/2
teaspoon then used the incoming drips to slowly dilute the water during
the acclimation period of two hours. He didn't seem to be overly
bothered by the process.
<Good.>
This morning he was swimming around the tank getting used to his
tankmates and began eating the garlic soaked food enthusiastically,
however the scraping on body looked worse than it appeared through the
plastic bag upon his arrival last night. He has white patches
(abrasions not the salt grain look of ich) so I'm afraid he is more
susceptible to an ich breakout. I run a UV Sterilizer on the tank 24/7
and have never had any ich outbreaks in the tank since inception 4
years ago so I'm fairly sure there is no ich in the system unless
it has been introduced by the Tang. What has me concerned is that after
reading through your site I now understand the lifecycle of ich and
also the trouble it is to properly treat once an outbreak has begun. It
seems to me that garlic might offer an infected individual some benefit
in fighting off an infection but it would do nothing to eliminate the
parasite from a system once introduced, so if the LFS owners method of
ich treatment is garlic then I think I'm in trouble. Since the Tang
was in a tank with some coral and shrimp at the LFS there couldn't
have be any copper treatment in the system. On to my questions:
1) I read on your site that Acriflavine isn't an effective
treatment for ich but do you think a two hour bath in a highly
concentrated solution would have any effect at killing the ich parasite
if it were present?
<No>
It appears it might have removed his slime coat so the stronger
concentration might have made it to the target.
<Removing the slime coat makes the fish more vulnerable to
infection, so you do not want to damage the slime coat any
further.>
2) Since by the time you respond to this e-mail he'll have been in
the tank for over 36 hours is there any reason to try to remove him now
or am I past the point of no return.
<I would not move or stress this fish further unless you actually
see signs of Ich or an infection from the scrapes.>
I thought about trying to remove and quarantine the Tang today but I
have around 150lbs of live rock in the tank and catching him would more
than likely be impossible and only stress him further and probably lead
to more abrasions so I decided to write to you first.
<I agree, leave the fish be and observe. With a good diet and good
water quality, it should heal up fairly quickly.>
3) If removing him is your suggestion do you have any tricks to netting
him?
Thank You so much for taking the time to respond, and thanks again for
the wonderful site. I'm confident with your sight as a reference
I'll avoid making many truly unnecessary and preventable mistakes
in the future.
<Happy to help>
Alex
<Mike>
Re: Hippo/Regal Tang Health: Quarantine
3/27/2009
Thanks for the reply Mike,
<Hi Alex, no problem.>
I guess my most pressing concern is trying to avoid introducing the ich
into the system.
<Ich is already in your system and has been since day 1, the trick
is keeping all of your livestock healthy enough so it does not
overwhelm them.>
Since the article on the lifecycle of ich says that it spends seven
days on the host fish growing and multiplying before popping and
spreading.
<This is true.>
I was curious if I have an opportunity window of seven days to remove
the Tang if he starts showing signs of ich. OR, if it's already too
late and if the ich was introduced via the Tang is already there and
removing him would be of no value.
<Removing the fish would be of no value at this point, unless it
actively shows signs of Ich or starts showing signs of
infection.>
Thanks
<My Pleasure>
<Mike>
Is an 18g Rubbermaid container too small to
quarantine a 6" hippo tang? -02/27/07 Dear Crew, Just
wanted to get your advice on this, as I have been given wildly
divergent advice on my local forum. They all completely advise
against freshwater dips even though I've read about it many
places. <Ah, this is the "problem" with forums. You
never know who is answering your question or how
knowledgeable/experienced they are or aren't. But they're
fun anyway. :-) The freshwater dipping method is a bit
"controversial" and there are arguments on both
sides.> I am acquiring a 6" hippo from another local
hobbyist and I still debating QT/Dip methods. Thinking my 10g
quarantine tank to be too small for this fish, I went out and
bought an 18g rubber maid box to use for quarantine. I am
wondering, will this still be too small? <Even if you want to
debate the dips, it's pretty universally agreed that QT is
generally a good idea. 18g is a bit small for a 6" tang...
but it doesn't have to be a tank. You can use a rubber maid
container, just get a bigger one.> Also, I have seen many
times that Bob advises a prophylactic dip then straight into the
display to minimize stress for hippo tangs. Would this indeed be
a better method for my new fish? <Truth be told, there really
is nothing written in stone about these things. Hippo tangs are
quite prone to ich and this is an argument for quarantining them.
However, on the other hand, stress is a big "cause" of
ich. Thus, reducing stress as much as possible might help prevent
ich just as much or more as quarantining. Fans of quarantining
will say that quarantining should be done such that it
doesn't cause the fish much (if any) stress. But again, since
there's so little we actually know for sure, ultimately
there's still a lot of guess work/intuition/empiricism
involved with these things. The best we can do is make sure are
"guesses" are intelligent, well-informed ones.
Personally, I would consider the overall health of the fish when
you get it. If it looks really healthy (no discoloration, no fin
tears, vibrant, active, good appetite, etc.), you might be less
inclined to quarantine it if you think doing so would only cause
it unnecessary stress. But ultimately, the decision is simply up
to you.> As for the dip, I have the 18g quarantine
"tank" all ready to go, saltwater is aged and aerated.
If I chose to go the dip route, could I just add Methylene blue
to this tank for the dip? I was thinking that it being saltwater,
it would be less stressful for the fish. <sounds
reasonable> The only other thing I've never quite been
able to grasp with freshwater dips is the acclimation process
from the shipping bag to the dip container and then to the
display. Am I right in thinking that I make sure PH, temp and
salinity correlate between the display tank and the dip vessel
and acclimate the fish to the display tank then put it in the dip
vessel? Sorry for the dumb question, but it's something
I've never quite understood. <Not dumb questions at all.
It stands to reason that the fewer "moves" you have to
make, the better. So if you were going to do the dip, maybe you
should do it straight out of the bag, then proceed to acclimate.
On the other hand, the fish might already be so stressed in the
bag, it might be wiser to "give it a break" and
acclimate it before dipping it. Again, I would try to judge the
overall state of the fish. If it looks like it's really
stressed out, I'd wait to do the dip (do it after
acclimation). I'm sorry I can't honestly give you a
certain answer (no one really can). Personally, I'm not a big
fan of freshwater dips in general. A lot of the parasites
it's meant to kill/prevent are tough little buggers that
aren't likely to die off with just a dip. Or, rather, it
wouldn't kill off *enough* of them to justify the potential
stress it causes the fish. But again, this is MY opinion. And
there are a lot of varying opinions on this. You'll see even
here on WWM, different crew members have different opinions on
freshwater dips. And since there's simply not enough real
formal research on any of these things, anyone's educated
guess is as good as mine (or yours).> Thanks again for all
your help! Dane <De nada and good luck, Sara M.>
Re: Is 18g Rubbermaid container too small to
quarantine a 6" hippo tang?-02/27/08 Hi Sara, Thanks for
the advice. At this stage, I'm leaning more towards skipping
quarantine based on what I know of the fish. It's from a
local hobbyist who's had this fish for a year in captivity.
From the pictures it looks very healthy, although I will reserve
judgment until I actually see it. <In this situation (since
the fish is coming from another tank where it's been for a
long time, and not from a LFS), quarantining might not quite as
important as not stressing the fish.> The only fish I've
lost in the short time I've been in the hobby has been a
hippo tang that I got shipped. Died of no apparent cause (nothing
external anyway) and so, I resolved to only buy locally and
preferably from an established tank. I've included pictures
to see what you think. <Looks like a pretty healthy fish...
but as you said, I wouldn't be sure till I saw him/her in
person.> IF the fish did get ich in the display, would it
necessarily affect the other fish? <Not necessarily, no. But
it would make the other fish more vulnerable to it if they are
stressed. These infections have a lot to do with the overall
health of the fish. Generally, healthy, happy fish under minimal
to no stress don't get ich nearly as easily as a
stressed/ailing fish. And some fish are just more (or less) prone
to it naturally. If the fish does get an infection, you should
probably remove it and quarantine it just to be safe. But lets
hope that doesn't happen. :-)> Fingers crossed, <good
luck> Dane <Best, Sara M.>
|
Regal Tang, fin covering up small lump? 10/23/07
Quick question for ya... A question about a Regal Tang I have in
quarantine. I believe the retailer had him for a week before I
selected him as the best looking Regal Tang I've seen for
months at a store. Nice colors, active, and plump. I did a pH and
temperature adjusted freshwater dip for about 7-8mins. I've
now had the tang for a week and he is feeding well on flake,
pellet, meaty foods, and Caulerpa I have in the tank. pH 8.2
Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 10ppm Salinity 1.025 Temp 26oc This
has just developed over the past 24hrs.... The tang has a bit of
swelling or a lump right behind it's right gill. The skin is
still proper color... in fact I'd best describe it as a
pimple forming under the skin. The lump is round sort of like if
you had shaved a few mm's off of a standard pencil eraser.
Furthermore, the fish is not using the fin on that side of the
body. It is evident that he can use it as the odd time he does...
he was swimming fine all week. He still seems to swim around fine
without using it much. When he's not using that fin, it
almost completely covers the lump. Does this sound at all
familiar? What can be done if anything? Dave <Mmm, might be
physical (a trauma let's say), could be pathogenic (perhaps a
parasite of some sort), but more harm to be done than not by
overtly "treating" this fish at this point. Best to
maintain high, consistent water quality. A note re the (sic)
Caulerpa mentioned above. I would replace this with a
less-noxious genus of algae... Likely a Gracilaria or
Chaetomorpha species. Its toxicity might be working against you
here. Bob Fenner>
Using Metronidazole and Praziquantel... More re the Regal
Tang bump 10/23/07 Hopefully I reach you in time
as I'd like to recall my previous question regarding a Blue
Tang with a developing lump on his side, where he is also not
using the fin on that particular side of the body. <Am still
here> After reading through 4 pages of Tang FAQ's, I think
I have spotted two notes about what appears to be a similar
issue. Bob's recommendation on the other notes in both
instances was: <Have seen such markings before... usually
geographically, seasonally expressed... Are likely either a
protozoan or encysted worm presence... Can be treated serially
with one dose of Flagyl/Metronidazole and an anthelminthic... (my
choice, likely Prazi/quantel)... Both/all are covered on WWM. Bob
Fenner> <Ah, yes> So, now that I likely know what it is
I've read through the article on Metronidazole, etc..
<Okay> My Tang is in a 24gallon Nano <Needs more room
than this... oh, this is for treatment only I take it> with a
very shallow crushed coral bed (less than one inch by far) with a
small piece of liverock with a good growth of Caulerpa. I'm a
bit confused by the article. It seems to state that soaking food
in Metro and then placing in the fridge for a few hours and then
feeding to the fish is considered one dose. This seems to be
associated with the treatment for freshwater fish who do not
'drink'?? Is this correct? <Is one way of
administration... more "sure" as dosing/dosage than
direct water treatment> For Marine fish, long-term baths for
about 3 hrs each day for 3 days?? Is the article suggesting
filling a bucket with tank water that is aerated with the
appropriate dose? <Is another approach> I'm just
wondering if catching the fish, placing in a bucket for 3 hrs,
catching the fish to put back into the tank x 3 days would
severely stress out the fish? <Too much so, too likely,
yes> Or, since it's only a 24gallon tank... should I add
directly into the quarantine tank that has the crushed
coral/piece of liverock, and then do a full water change (from my
main display) daily for the three days? Is it ok to have a
crushed coral bottom and/or a piece of liverock in their during
the treatment? <Not if the medications are to be added
directly to the water, no. Too likely diluting effects...>
Will it harm the nicely growing Caulerpa or should I take the
liverock out for the three hours during the treatment? <Will
not harm Caulerpaceans> Or... is it just as easy to soak the
food and use that as the treatment? <This is best in most
circumstances... given the fish/es are feeding> Soaking the
food seems like a lot less work and easier to administer... at
the same time, I want to ensure that I knock out this issue as
quickly as possible without harm to the fish. The recommendation
to use Praziquantel as an additional cure/precaution... can I use
both together? <Yes> Your article says to simply add
7.6mg/gallon. Can this go directly in the system with crushed
coral and the liverock? <Yes, though will be affected to a
degree...> How long do I keep it in there? <Indefinitely...
will degrade in time> Can I do this while administering the
Metronidazole via soaking food? Via adding Metronidazole directly
into tank? <Yes, could> I have been doing 30% water changes
on this 24gallon quarantine tank about 3 times every two weeks
using 1/2 new mixed water and 1/2 system water for each water
change. Although the Metro doesn't seem to conflict with
water changes... do I keep up with water changes with
Praziquantel if the Prazi is meant to be in the tank for a week
or more? <Yes, or re-administer with water changing...>
Apologies for all the questions... but there isn't much info
on the Prazi and the article on the Metronidazole has me afraid
of potentially killing the fish because I used it incorrectly.
David Brynlund <Again, I would treat with nothing at this
juncture if this were my ward. B>
Re: Using Metronidazole and Praziquantel 10/23/07
Hi Bob, <David> Thanks for the comments, it has helped...
But now you have me even more confused... <Again, I would
treat with nothing at this juncture if this were my ward. B>
Last night, the fish was using the other fin more... But the
lump/pimply like feature on his right side that used to be the
same color as the rest of the fish appears to becoming a bit
discolored. Reading through your FAQ's this does sound like
an internal parasite and you had recommended others to treat with
the products I mentioned below. Why would I not treat this fish
for what appears to be a parasitic infestation? <... please
see my comment/mantra above...> The fish is still pretty
chubby and feeds easily. Can this parasite work it's way out
of the fish leaving the fish healthy after a recovery period?? If
it remains untreated and the parasite exits the fish... Can it
not re-enter the fish for a secondary infestation? David Brynlund
<Be patient, learn... B>
Re: Regal Tang, fin covering up small
lump? 10/24/07 Ok. The Caulerpa is just
naturally growing on the liverock. Should i pull it out? Move it
to the main display? Any chance of... if this is a parasite that
perhaps it may also be present in the liverock thus i
shouldn't move the liverock to a main display? <If only a
"small piece" I would not worry re toxicity... leave it
in place. BobF>
|
Hippos... Quarantine?
-- 08/17/07 Just a quick question... in Bob's book as well as
on your website, it is suggested to place Hippo Tangs directly into the
main display without quarantine to reduce the stress of multiple catch
and release out of quarantine. Are you still of this opinion? In my
past experience, a Hippo I had about 4yrs ago seemed to be a
'Crypt' magnet. <Mmm, Paracanthurus are not "as
bad" as such compared with many other Surgeonfish species... and
my opinion is "it depends"... "IF" the specimen
looks otherwise in good health, it can be isolated for a time... to
assess its health... However, it can be peremptorily FW dipped and
placed in most cases> Would u expect a Hippo Tang, aside from adding
nice colors to a tank, assist in mowing done some green hair algae?
<Depends on the species of algae... not many are palatable... and
many that look "Green" are not... are often BGA, which is
entirely undesired> I will be adding a Foxface after a 4 week
quarantine which I'm thinking will further assist in a green grassy
hair algae problem. Note, the tank is 200gallons FOWLR. David Brynlund
<Hotay! BobF>
Hippo tang with Popeye... not using
WWM 8/14/07 I have a 55 gallon saltwater tank.
<Too small to house Paracanthurus...> We purchased 2 percula
clown fish, 1 potters angelfish, <Not easily kept> 1 hippo
tang and 1cleaner shrimp. We had the fish 2 weeks and noticed the
tang and angel had ick. I started treating the tank with kick ick
<Worthless> every 2 days. I noticed the hippo wouldn't
let the angel get cleaned by the shrimp, so I purchased a second
cleaner shrimp. I thought they were doing better. We did a partial
water change then in two weeks did another water change, put back
in the carbon filters, turned back on the skimmer, thought they
looked good, stopped using the kick ick. The angelfish died the
next day. So, I took out carbon filters and unplugged skimmer and
went back to using the kick ick, every 3 days now. Tang looked good
but I noticed white on the outer side of one eye when the fish
would shift its eyes, but overall eye looked good solid black. A
week has gone by and today the tang has Popeye in one eye.
<Unilateral... mechanical injury...> I bought MelaFix
<Also worthless> to treat tank. My question is should I be
treating the tang with something stronger ( a real anti-biotic) for
this. <No...> I don't want to try this for a few days to
find the tang dead. I know antibiotic will kill shrimp - I will
take them back to fish store, <Along with the Crypt? I doubt
they'll be happy> not worried about that. I want the tang to
live - he has been sick for over a month now and i am worried he
cant take much more. he still eats well, body mass looks good. ick
spots are gone but i am still treating the tank because he is still
scratching and getting cleaned by shrimp. He hides a lot always
scratching his eyes and fins against objects in tank. please help.
I was crushed to lose the angelfish. Thanks a lot, KMS <Please
read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/Popeyecures.htm and the
linked files above. Bob Fenner> sorry about the file size on
pics, I forgot to check it before hitting send. thanks again.
<No worries. RMF> |
|
Dips, Hippos - 05/01/07
Dear WetWeb, I have been reading on hippo tangs and Am confused.
Because I read in you info about hippos that you should fresh water dip
them and then place them into the display tank. I thought that this web
site strongly believed in the QT. Please help me try to understand why
you should not QT a fish that is so prone to illness. Jeff <Read on!
Some fishes are better not dipped... for what apparent good it will do
them, you... versus the stress and strain, likely induced problems from
said procedure... Keep reading. Bob Fenner>
Regal tang as a possible disease vector... 12/10/06
Hello crew, I have a question for you. I purchased a Regal
Tang from Live Aquaria's Divers Den a week ago today (the exact
description was African Yellow Belly Regal Tang Var.). <Neat>
They called me last Monday saying the fish had some scratches and they
wanted to hold it for a while to make sure it was healthy and
didn't develop a secondary infection (hopefully the truth).
<Yes... good of them> They are supposed to ship the fish tomorrow
and I would receive it Tuesday. I work at a LFS here in
Michigan and know the problems with these fish, they seem to always get
ich but most of the time get over it without any
treatment. We have developed a system at the store where we
put all moderate to difficult tangs in the reef system in large tanks
and they seem to do much better because of the extra swimming room and
hiding spots and we rarely lose any fish in that system. <Ahhh!>
Now to my question, since I know the fish will likely develop ich (had
it in my tank before, no fatalities) and most likely get over it in a
few weeks, would it be better to place the fish directly in my 92
gallon reef tank with lots of hiding spots or place it in my 29 gallon
Bio Cube that has only been setup a couple of months? <Not the
cube... unless this was going to be simply for quarantine,
observation... ahead of its placement in the 92...> The 29 gallon
has very few places to hide and only has one fish in it, a Starry
Blenny. My personal feeling is that the fish would do better
in my 92 gallon tank because it would be able to hide and swim about
when it wanted and feed on any algae on the rocks, not to mention it is
a well established system. <But... is "it" worth the
possibility of introducing virulent pathogens? Not IMO> My 92 gallon
tank has a Clown, Kole Tang, and a Blue Flavivertex Pseudochromis, all
about 3 inches long. The Regal Tang (a 4 inch fish) will be
my last addition to the 92 gallon tank. I am a little
worried about the Regal Tang because of the health issue Live Aquaria
said it had, but am hopeful with their honesty and the fact that they
have had the fish at least 2 weeks makes me feel a little better about
it adapting to my tank and hopefully eating right away. I
forgot to mention I have read extensively about this fish on your site,
many of the FAQ's and the article that says placing them in your
main system without quarantine is best because of the nature of this
particular fish. <I would still, at least, run this Paracanthurus
through a prophylactic bath... see WWM Re> I have thought about this
issue long and hard and have discussed it on the forum, and have
emailed forum members about the best way to go about this. I
always research everything I buy for my tank before purchasing it and
have not lost a coral or a fish because of it. Your opinion
would be very valued and will be the last one I receive before picking
up the fish. Thank you very much for your thoughts and time,
Ryan Nienhuis (again). I will send you a picture as soon as
I receive the fish. Thanks again. <Again, to be clear...
I would NOT simply acclimate and place this fish in a main/permanent
display... Not worth the risk of introducing Crypt, other disease
organisms in a hyper-infective state... A dip/bath... at least. Bob
Fenner>
Re: Regal tang... and lost WWM mail... 12/11/06
For some reason I did not receive your reply on my email <Bizarre...
and this is happening more and more...> however I looked it up on
today's FAQ's so I know what was said. <Ah, good> Anyway
thanks for the quick reply and yes my intentions of putting it in the
29 gallon were for observation/quarantine only, not a permanent
home. Thanks again. <Ah, very good. Cheers, BobF>
Hippo Tang keeps floating to
top 7/4/06 Hello, I have a problem and this seemed like
the best place to find a solution... <Okay...> I have an
8-month-old 110-gallon tank. About 2 weeks ago I bought a beautiful
Hippo Tang. I am aware of the 'problems' that Hippo Tangs can
have such as forming ick from hiding under rocks and rubbing on them
and how they have a reputation for being shy... <So you of course
quarantined this specimen...?> so I wasn't too surprised when it
kept itself hidden behind some rocks after I put him in initially.
<Not> I figured I would give him a few days to adjust. However,
after 2 weeks it was still not coming out at all even to eat. I decided
to take him out today b/c I was worried about whether or not he was
sick and I would not want him infecting the rest of the tank. <Would
be too late if so...> It was then that I discovered it doesn't
have ick. Instead, it looks as if it's stomach is bloated which is
causing him to float to the top. This would explain why it was hiding
under the rocks to keep from floating to the top. I know that with
time, it will eventually die b/c it wont eat due to the stress it's
experiencing. <Unusual...> Please give me any advice you can
about helping my Hippo Tang get the air out of it's belly. Thanks!
Cassie <... Likely Epsom Salt in a treatment tank... Details offered
on WWM. See the search tool for WWM or the indices. Bob Fenner>
Hippo Tang with fungus or Necrotic tissue? 6/8/06
Hello WWM Team, <Eric> I have a 1 inch hippo tang <A bit
small... die much more easily started under 2-3 inches...> in a 10
gallon quarantine tank with 11 lbs. live rock. I have had her for 1
week and 3 days. She has been eating great since I got her. I give her
a blended variety of frozen fish/meaty foods mostly, along with some
Kent garlic additive. She always showed me her left side which looks
brilliant and has beautiful coloration. Then after 1 week I noticed her
right side which seemed to have some fungus like patches, but it flowed
a bit like it might be skin tissue or necrotic tissue. I could hardly
get a good look, but it is around her eye and partly down her body but
only on the right side. I have seen these patches which have
grown in size for the last 3 days, but she is swimming more freely in
the tank, still eating voraciously and greeting me more readily
when I show my mug at her tank. <Good signs> She used to do some
flashing/flicking of her body on Saturday and Sunday, but not doing it
much now. <The species does flick, flash quite a bit naturally> I
do 15% water changes every 3 - 4 days. There is only a 40 gallon
mechanical whisper filter. The water is Alk: 1.6 (low); pH: 8.2;
Nitrate: 10; SG 1.0235; Temp 81 F. The only extraordinary thing I can
say that really could have caused this is during the heat wave here in
PA recently the tanks temp was 85 F for a little over 2 days which I
tried to get down slowly and did eventually with fans blowing, hanging
ice packs in Ziploc bags and AC on in the house. It still took
over 2 days to finally reach 81 F which still isn't my ideal, but
it is stable. Could that temperature hike have done this? <Mmm, not
by itself... likely ongoing issues with capture, shipping... perhaps a
bit of aggression from/with other fishes in transit> Any other ideas
beside regular water changes? <Vitamin additions to the food,
water... I would not (at this time) avail myself of antimicrobials,
dyes, metal solutions...> In a few weeks time I will move her to the
main tank if she doesn't come down with any other problems like
ich. Your wisdom or at least good advice is appreciated. Eric <This
outgoing specimen will likely heal and do fine with the good care,
protocol you detail here. Bob Fenner>
Sick baby Blue Tangs- Regal-(Paracanthurus
hepatus) 4/4/06 Hi WWM Crew, I have 2 baby Tangs
(2-3 cm) and 2 False Clowns (same size) in a 60 litre tank. All
parameters look good .... SG 1022, PH 8.1. Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0,
Nitrate 10. The tank has been up and running since early November 2005
and I added my 2 clowns in early December. I water change 25%
fortnightly and test water parameters 1-2 times a week always revealing
above results. In mid February my wife comes home with the 2 tangs
purchased from a favourite LFS (very trusted) and all 4 have been
getting along beautifully, playing and even sleeping together in a
plastic anemone. I have seen the tangs laying on their sides at times
and then straightening up and playing around again. <Natural
behavior... but should have been quarantined...> BUT on Sunday
(Aussie time) .. they both seemed to be doing this quite often, even
lying against each other and sinking to the bottom and just lying there
for minutes at a time then dart off and run into a rock or something
... I also noticed their colour has changed (faded) and their breathing
has gotten heavier. I kept my eye on them at times during the day and
they seemed to be doing it more frequently. I thought, something
isn't right, so I feed them all some flakes to observe there
reaction and only one of the tangs ate !! I have been feeding them all
brine shrimp, flakes, Nori etc. I might add that I also have a 400
litre reef tank as well as 400 litre freshwater tank for 4 years now
and have only lost a few freshwater fish only. (this hobby
soaks up all my time .... I love it) Back to the problem, I immediately
acclimated the tangs to my QT and they showed signs of improvement, one
more than the other. I made a 50% water change at lunch time and in the
afternoon returned the tangs to their tank with the clowns (youngest
son hit the QT with a soccer ball and cracked it). <Yikes. No
kicking in the house!> One of the tangs is swimming around OK and
playing with the clowns and eating and then all of a sudden drops to
the bottom and lays there, the other one is still laying on the bottom
breathing heavily (has a quick 5 second swim then stops again). Getting
late I left them be and the next morning expecting them to be dead
they're both still breathing (rapidly) the same one still swimming
and eating and then dropping to bottom, the other is still on the
bottom breathing rapidly. Their colour has come back but they just
can't seem to get over whatever it is doing this to them. I changed
water again this afternoon (10%) which I will continue to do daily
incase some thing has gotten into the tank and poisoned it. <Not
likely...> Maybe the wife fed them after using hand cream or
something or the kids had something on their hands ????? The clowns are
hardy I know and carry on as if nothings happened !! I'm lost, any
ideas ??? I can't see any HLLE !!! Thanks Heaps ! Rick Sydney OZ.
<The much more likely scenario is simple "stress" for
these tiny two... leading to blood cell pack volume loss... best to
place such new fishes into quarantine immediately and leave them to
rest for a few weeks... Being caught, handled... is very stressful. I
do hope yours recover at this point. Am torn re advising to move them
back to QT... more stress might be worse. Bob Fenner> Re: Sick
baby Blue Tangs- Regal-(Paracanthurus hepatus) Bob Fenner -
04/05/2006 Hi Crew, <Rick> I just wanted to let you know your
advice of "<The much more likely scenario is simple
"stress" for these tiny two... leading to blood cell pack
volume loss... best to place such new fishes into quarantine
immediately and leave them to rest for a few weeks... Being caught,
handled... is very stressful. I do hope yours recover at this point. Am
torn re advising to move them back to QT... more stress might be worse.
Bob Fenner>" has worked well. (( I left them in the
main tank so as not to "stress them anymore than need be" ))
The new "tiny two" are up and playing together once again !!!
They look happier than ever, it's like they've had a new lease
of life. ( and I'm loving it ) Thank you, Thank you, Thank you for
your prompt reply - I hate to think how many questions you and your
crew must receive everyday (hundreds I guess) and to receive an answer
only "24 hours later" is a sure sign of absolute dedication
!! Outstanding effort WWM !! I applaud all involved !!
Regards Rick Down Under. <Thank you for this follow-up.
Bob Fenner>
HLLE or Something Else? 2/13/06
Your website is great!!!
Yesterday, I "inherited" a baby
(1") regal tang (aka Pacific Blue, Blue Hippo). <Small...>
When I first got him, I noticed a white patch on either
side of his head below each eye. <Just stress
markings> I gave him a freshwater dip for about 3.5 minutes and put
him in quarantine. Today, the white is spreading so that his
face is nearly white as well as his hind end, while his middle, fins
and tail are still normal color. <Likely still just stress...> It
is not raised spots, rather it looks like someone has
"bleached" him causing him to turn from blue to
white. Other than that, he is acting well, swimming around
and eating (Emerald Entree soaked in Garlic Xtreme and dried seaweed
with vitamin C, I'll be adding vitamins, but LFS is closed on
Sunday). There is no pitting, sores, scratches, holes or any
other signs of illness. He does tend to hide when I come
near, but I'm pretty sure that's normal. <Yes>
Water tests showed pH = 8.3, ammonia = 0,
nitrite = 0, nitrate = < 12.5, sg = 1.021, <Raise this to
1.025> temp = 79. I took some pics of
him this evening, but they came out really blurry, so, unfortunately, I
can't send them. I'll try again later.
I'm really hoping to save this little
guy as he is one of the fish I really wanted when I got my aquarium,
but they've been really hard to come by (LFS hasn't had one in
months). He'll be joining two baby (1") false
percula clowns, a small (3") yellow tang, a 4" Ward's
Sleeper (Tiger Watchmen's) Goby and 12 turbo snails in a 6ft., 125
gal tank. It doesn't seem like a lot of fish now, but I
know they'll grow. Do you think this
is HLLE? <No... not at this size...> I've searched and
searched and that's the only thing I can find that comes close to
his symptoms. If so, what can I do for him?
Thanks for your help. Your
website and FAQ's have helped me tremendously, although I've
been blessed with healthy fish so far. <Provide good water quality,
an assortment of foods, some soaked in vitamin prep., and this fish
should be fine. Very small Paracanthurus are often stressed, colored in
this fashion. Yours will "color up" soon... w/o any
"medication"/treatment. Bob Fenner>
Unhappy Hippo (Paracanthurus hepatus) - 08/11/2005 Help! My
Blue Hippo Tang is dying. I have a 75Gal tank and she has only been in
there 2 weeks. She's lying flat on the sand and breathing so hard.
<Too many possibilities, too little information.... I
would immediately do a major water change (be certain to match pH,
temperature, and salinity) and add a great deal of
aeration.... And begin reading here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm and
here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/paracant.htm .> She can't
get up and I have no clue what to do. Can I save her, or is it too
late? <Without actually seeing the fish, I could not say.> Please
help! Christina Rafiyan <Wishing you and your tang
well, -Sabrina>
Tiny Hippos Hi, We have a 200 gallon tank reef tank that has
been setup for 3 months (and most live rock came from an existing
tank). The only fish are a 3" Yellow Tang and 4 Green Chromis.
They are still in quarantine in order to ensure the new tank was stable
and free of any ich. <Good> We would like to add 2 Hippo
Tangs and have them grow up in the tank. Both our LFS and LiveAquaria
have Tiny Hippos (body=3/4") in stock. <This IS small... but
this species is quite hardy, caught, shipped at this size... providing
they've been and kept fed> In fact this is the only size
available. We have a cycled 20 gallon setup. If we quarantine them for
6 weeks and don't add the Yellow or Chromis to the big tank until
the same time, would that size work out okay in the large system?
<Mmm, if it were me, mine, I'd pH adjusted freshwater dip them
on the way into quarantine, only keep them there (with some PVC pipe
fittings to hide in) for two weeks... and then dip them again on the
way to the main/display tank... this is all that is necessary with
small Paracanthurus, and about all the stress they can take> We
intend to feed both live algae red and Zooplex (with possibly flakes
and/or the meaty mix we feed the others) a couple times a day (because
of their size). Once in the big tank, they should have plenty of
copepods and amphipods, etc. on the rocks as supplement because we have
stocked both and they have multiplied like crazy while the tank has
gone fallow. <Good> Would we be crazy to get 2 this size?
<Nope> If you think it is okay to get them - should we do the
usual freshwater dip pre-quarantine as small as they are? <Ahh!
I've got to adopt my own suggestion to read all input before
responding... Yes my friend. Bob Fenner>
Re: Tiny Hippos Did the DO (wah) Dip Hi Bob, Just wanted to
let you know the baby tangs are doing great! They are very outgoing for
hippos and started eating right away. They are starting to get a little
rounded as they should (they were pretty skinny when they first came
in). They play together all day and sleep together at night. No signs
of ich at all so far (or even any stress)! <Good> We had already
done the freshwater dip with RO/DI when we received your e-mail.
Luckily, it does not seemed to have hurt anything this time (I stopped
just under 3 minutes.. they were just so tiny). I am sure our tap water
is loaded with metals/minerals and who knows what else. Would Spring
water pH and Temp adjusted work better/be safer? <Really matters
very little here... for such short duration/exposure. Bob
Fenner>
Haze on hippo tang eyes Hello crew, Thanks
for all you do. I have a 125 gal saltwater FOWLR in the beginning
stages of starting reef. I have a coral Beauty Angel, a mated pair
of Yellow Stripe Maroon Clowns, a Sea Hare, a few Reef safe Stars,
cleaning crew of various hermits crabs and snails, and my Blue
Hippo. The tank has been up and cycled for a little over 3 months.
I bought my Hippo about a week and a half ago. She immediately
started hanging out with the clowns (and I thought it was just in
the movies :-)... She swims with them eats and sleeps with them. I
think she even tries to help them with their Sebae Anemone.
All was going well until this morning. I seen her left eye is all
clouded over, it does not seem to be protruding though. I changed
about 10% water yesterday and I use a RO/DI unit. I checked latter
in the day yesterday and all levels were good. Ammonia and Nitrite
0, Nitrate 20 (can not seem to get it lower if there is a trick
I'm open to suggestions) PH 8.2 Phosphates were maybe .25 it
was not quite the color of 0 but no where close to the next color
up. Calcium 450. Temp 79. When I seen the eye I checked again
this morning and all was the same but PH maybe 8.0 due to the time
of day. All the fish including the Hippo are acting normal, well
the same as they have been. The Hippo seems unaffected for the most
pat and is eating and swimming fine. Still helping the clowns keep
house. She does seem to have some affect on her vision. I have not
seen anything in FAQ that really sounds like this.
<Actually... not that uncommon> I don't want her to get
more stressed because of her eye. I was thinking of freshwater dip
(for how long though?) Is this a type of disease and what can I do
to help cure it? <Not likely a disease per se... unilateral...
probably resultant from a mechanical injury> Could it be that
the Anemone stung her while she was cleaning house for the clowns?
<Could be> I am very concerned and do not want to lose her.
Thanks again for all you do for all of us out here. PS. Do you
think that 1 or 2 more hippo's her size to school with would
keep her away from the Anemone and out of danger? Or would the
fight instead of school? <I would just stick with the one
Paracanthurus... and not "treat", otherwise handle,
further stress this specimen... You could try bolstering all's
immune systems by soaking foods in Selcon or equivalent... but
should heal on its own over time. Bob Fenner> |
White film in P. hepatus tang's eye -
Anthony's Take 5/9/05 Hello crew - thanks for all you do.
<It's a labor of love, my friend. Thank you :)> I have
a 125 gal saltwater FOWLR in the beginning stages of starting
reef. I have a coral Beauty Angel, a mated pair of Yellow Stripe
Maroon Clowns, a Sea Hare, a few Reef safe Stars, cleaning crew
of various hermits crabs and snails, and my Blue Hippo. The tank
has been up and cycled for a little over 3 months. I bought my
Hippo about a week and a half ago. She immediately started
hanging out with the clowns (and I thought it was just in the
movies. <And not to be a buzz kill here... but I see/realize
that you added these fishes without quarantine. You have my sad
and solemn promise that you will kill fishes if you do not learn
this lesson: to use a quarantine tank for all things wet that
will go into t he display to prevent parasites, predators or
disease from contaminating the system. PLEASE take this to
heart my friend. Do you recall the scene in Nemo where he enters
the tank and everyone asks where he's from... when he says
"the ocean", they freak out because he had not been
cleaned/quarantined? Its a really big deal. Do read out archives
and FAQs on the subject please.> She swims with them eats and
sleeps with them. I think she even tries to help them with their
Sebae Anemone. All was going well until this morning. I seen her
left eye is all clouded over, it does not seem to be protruding
though. I changed about 10% water yesterday and I use a RO/DI
unit. I checked later in the day yesterday and all levels were
good. <Singular eye clouding my be physical trauma and not an
infection necessarily. Yet still watch for this being a bacterial
infection> Ammonia and Nitrite 0, Nitrate 20 (can not seem to
get it lower if there is a trick I'm open to suggestions)
<Do look into archives again... ( or my Book of Coral
Propagation) for inline bucket DSB denitrifying filters. Very
cheap and effective.> PH 8.2 Phosphates were maybe .25 it was
not quite the color of 0 but no where close to the next color up.
Calcium 450. Temp 79. When I seen the eye I checked again this
morning and all was the same but PH maybe 8.0 due to the time of
day. All the fish including the Hippo are acting normal, well the
same as they have been. The Hippo seems unaffected for the most
pat and is eating and swimming fine. Still helping the clowns
keep house. She does seem to have some affect on her vision. I
have not seen anything in FAQ that really sounds like this. I
don't want her to get more stressed because of her eye. I was
thinking of freshwater dip (for how long though?) <It's
not indicated here... the eye clouding cannot be a parasite... if
anything. you may need antibiotics and an isolation tank (10 gall
with sponge filter) to treat the fish in)> Is this a type of
disease and what can I do to help cure it? Could it be that the
Anemone stung her while she was cleaning house for the clowns?
<It's not likely) I am very concerned and do not want to
lose her. Thanks again for all you do for all of us out here. PS.
Do you think that 1 or 2 more hippo's her size to school with
would keep her away from the Anemone and out of danger? <Look
at the adult size of a single hepatus tang at fishbase.org... and
you will see that this tank arguably cannot house a single blue
hippo tang at adulthood... more than one in this tank would be
irresponsible IMO> Or would the fight instead of school?
<It's tough to say. But a moot point regardless
considering these fishes' adult size. Best of luck!
Anthony>
Re: white film in hippo eye Anthony, Thanks for the timely
response. <Always welcome my friend :)> I am going to dive into
theses articles immediately. My sister and her husband came to visit
about a couple months ago and caught the fever for fish when they seen
my dual 125's set up. One of which is the one now converted to
saltwater. I am pleased to say I have kept them from making the
numerous mistakes I have made through bad advice, trial and error.
<Fantastic to hear! It is the very thing we hope to do here with
archived content and answered queries.> As far as internet
mumbo-jumbo my theory is read many points of view and the couple things
that they actually agree on I accept as truth or fact and the rest I
view only as opinion. I agree with you also on my choice of words,
assume is better stated as perception since we can only go on what we
take from the incoming questions. Again that's my bad habit of
knowing just enough to be dangerous. (I often use the joke from the
commercial... no I'm not an aquarist but I did sleep at a Holiday
Inn Express last night.) <Heehee... understood. It reminds me of one
of my fave Fennerism's Paraphrased here: "[Most people know
what they know... but some folks don't know, what they don't
know."]> I am very conscientious and determined to succeed at
this. As when I was new to freshwater and aquariums in general, I
realize patience is the key and yes it will get easier with time and
experience. (just tiring not to go in debt while learning as saltwater
is much more costly money wise then freshwater in my experience)
<its all very good to hear/wise, my friend. And if I could get just
one piece of advice to stick with every fellow aquarist I/we chat
with... it would be the critical need to strictly use a quarantine
tank. All things wet (plants, algae, snails, fishes, corals, live
rock... everything wet!) must go through QT for 4-8 weeks (4 weeks of
pest, predator or disease free symptoms, actually). If you obey this
lesson, you will enjoy your hobby so much more through the years, and
more importantly... save organisms lives in the process.
Anthony>
|
|
Please tell me how to save my Dory. Another fish poisoned by Mela (not)
Fix Hi, I've had my blue
tang "dory" for about 5 months now, probably 2 months ago she
developed a scab like disease on her back side, close to her tail.
After a while the scab healed leaving the fish with a hole close to its
tail, the hole has been there for a couple of months now, and the fish
has been perfectly fine. I assumed it just took a long time for it to
heal, and that eventually the hole would close. I asked Big
Al's Aquarium if there was anything I could do to aid in the
healing process, they suggested MelaFix. I started using it yesterday,
and today I noticed my blue tang was extremely sick. She was stuck to
the filter vent, I turned off the filter and she swam away from it, but
then fell on its side and could not move from there. I also
noticed she was off-coloured (pale with spots of white) and appeared
near death. I removed her from my tank and placed her in a separate
tank all on her own (with only a filter/heater/a couple of live
rocks/and some purple seaweed in case she gets hungry). I tested
the water and it seems perfectly fine. Could you suggest something,
maybe as to why my fish is sick? Do you think she is reacting to the
MelaFix? Is there something I can add to her tank to make her better?
Thanks <Hello, it sounds like your tang is in the late stages of a
secondary infection. If the tang is not eating, I don't think that
there will be much for you to do. It is very difficult to treat for a
secondary infection (fin rot) and treat for parasites (ich/white
spots). I think that it is a coincidence that the addition of MelaFix
and your fish's health coincide. You are taking the proper
precautions now that you put your tang in a quarantine tank. Offer the
fish some live food and try treating with a mild dose of copper. Good
Luck. MikeB.>
- Blue Tang, Black Spots - Hi, We have a new tank raised baby
Hippo Tang with black ich. Have read everything on
freshwater dips - but haven't found the step by step for complete
idiot's guide:-) Is this procedure appropriate? - - Add amount of
reef buffer recommended for salt water to RO/DI water (do not add any
salt) - Test that PH is the same as saltwater <I'd just use this
second step to add the buffer - the directions on the container are too
general. Just add and test, add and test.> - Get temperature exactly
the same - Add an airstone for 5 minutes prior to putting in Tang -
Place baby Tang in the freshwater for 3 minutes <If you can push
this to five minutes, that would be excellent.> - Move baby tang to
fresh tank treated with ? (CopperSafe at xx strength???)? <Nah...
just move to a quarantine tank. Don't treat with anything unless
the problems persist.> Also, how many days should we wait before
bathing the little fellow (to not add too much to his stress) - and
then how often would you do the fwb? <If the problem reoccurs, I
wouldn't dip the fish any more than once every other day, and then
also think about some form of treatment in the quarantine.> History
- 1" tank raised baby Hippo Tang was put in quarantine Friday
evening after a very traumatic shipping
experience. Developed small black spots Saturday night and
now hides in the rock about 95% of the time (we can only tell he has
the spots by looking with flashlight). Has eaten a little
off the live rock and nibbled a tiny bit of the Gracilaria we soaked in
garlic extract - I think. Thanks, Patty PS: Sorry for constantly
sending you questions! Your site is the best - the only one
we trust completely! <Cheers, J -- >
Tang Trouble? Hi, <Hey! Scott F. here with you
tonight.> I have a Blue Regal Tang. This fish has been extremely
active ever since I have had it. Three days ago it started hiding and
won't eat. It hides well and it is difficult to see it
much. However, what I can see is it shaking a lot and it
looks like there is something wrong with its skin around the face and
eyes area as well as starting down the side. The spots that look
damaged are changing colors almost a reddish or brownish color from
what I can see. Also the top fin looks like it could have some
damage. <Hmm... could be some kind of parasitic disease...Maybe
Amyloodinium, which shows some of those symptoms, particularly skin
damage, lack of appetite and sluggishness> One day it was very
active and like overnight this problem just appeared with no warning. I
talked to a local fish store and they suggested ich but it seems to be
more than that. <Yep- sounds like more...> Also this
fish is in a 90 gallon reef aquarium so I got something to
help ich that is reef safe per there advise, but it does not
seem to be working and frankly I don't know what is
wrong with the fish. What do you think? Thanks in advance for any help.
Mike <Well, Mike- I think we both will agree that "reef
safe" medications are really not, and that there are more
effective methods to treat parasitic diseases. If this is indeed
Amyloodinium, a more aggressive medical approach (catching the affected
fish and treating it in a separate aquarium) using a proven medication,
such as copper sulphate or formalin-based preparations. Some tangs do
not handle copper exposure well, so you may want to utilize a
formalin-based medication if this turns out to be parasitic. Follow
manufacturer's instructions to the letter concerning dosages and
duration. If you act quickly and decisively, you can beat this illness.
Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Tangling With A Tang! Hello, quick question for you.
<Sure! Scott F. here> I have a Pacific Blue Tang who is
(thankfully) starting to recover from a semi-severe case of HLLE...He
has been scratching A LOT lately and I'm wondering if that is a
symptom of recovering from HLLE or if it is more likely that he has a
parasite. None of my other fish are scratching at all (that I have
seen), which is why I suspect that it is not parasites. What do you
think? <Well, it's hard to be sure without a picture. As you may
well know, these fishes have a well-earned reputation as "Ich
magnets", so they may contract this disease regardless of the
condition of the other fishes...If you think that the fish is suffering
from ich, it may be time to remove him for observation and/or
treatment, if it becomes necessary. read up on parasitic diseases on
the WWM site to confirm if this is, indeed, what you are dealing with
here.> Also, just for those who may be curious I was able to
successfully help him start recovering from HLLE with high quality
pellets (actually that is the clown's food, which the tang steals),
Nori soaked in Selcon and, dried purple Nori... I alternate the type of
Nori I give him so there is some variety. <All good foods. For our
other readers, I want to point out that these tangs are largely
planktivorous, and vegetable matter, although highly important, may be
secondary in importance to good meaty stuff. Try some frozen Mysis, or
even some Cyclop-Eeze, which are excellent "planktonic-type"
foods. That being said, fresh macroalgae are eagerly accepted, too. Try
some fresh Gracilaria, which is my #1 food choice for herbivorous
tangs. You can get starter cultures from my favorite e-tailer,
Indo-Pacific Sea Farms, or the other wonderful source, Inland Aquatics.
This stuff is amazing!> I didn't use the mysterious tank
grounding technique or add any iodine or anything. Just good old
fashioned nutrition. :) <I agree with you wholeheartedly. You did a
great job! Great water quality and excellent food will often do the
trick without anything else too exotic!> Thanks! Steve <My
pleasure, Steve! Regards, Scott F>
Tang In Trouble? Hi, <HI there! Scott F. here today!> I
have a hippo/regal tang. It had ick about a week ago and I
put him in a hospital tank. I treated him with quick cure
for the recommended five days and he seemed fine,
however after four days in tank he started to develop white
patches in his belly and sides. I had a difficult time maintaining good
water parameters in hospital tank, so I released him back into main
tank, hoping that this condition was caused by poor water quality.
<A calculated risk, but not worth taking again, IMO> He has been
back in the main tank for a couple of days and he's eating and
swimming normally but white patches are still present on his
skin. What is this? What can I do? My daughter
and I are very distressed, he is her baby. Any advice would be greatly
appreciated. And any tips on keeping him healthy would also
be helpful. Thank you very much> <Hard to say exactly what this
could be. It might be a secondary infection of some sort, or it could
be a condition brought on by the medication. I suppose the best course
of action at this point might be to continue observation of the fish,
rather than to subject the fish to another round of medication
(especially if you're not 100% certain what it is you're
treating!). Do consult the disease FAQs on the WWM site to see if
anything that you see there is similar to what this tang has. If the
symptoms worsen, or if the fish appears to be in distress, take
appropriate action immediately. Otherwise, continue to maintain
excellent water conditions, and these symptoms might just clear up on
their own. Hang in there. Regards, Scott F>
The Hippo Is A Sick-O! I recently bought a med hippo tang
(yesterday). The LFS I bought him from QTs their fish for 7-14 days.
Today he is rubbing against the rocks and has small white spots.
<Uh-Oh...could be ich- or worse. You need to take immediate
action... By the way, unless the LFS quarantines the fishes in tanks
that have no connection to a central filtration system, does not add
any new fishes into the tank after the quarantine period has started,
and completely breaks down the tanks after each use, then I would not
consider the fish "quarantined". The quarantine process is
very simple, but requires perseverance in order to be successful. And,
the quarantine period should last a minimum of 3 weeks- ideally, a
month. This gives sufficient time to assure that, if diseases arise,
you can catch them before they are introduced into the display> The
other fish in the tank have been fed garlic soaked food once a day for
the last 2 weeks. They include 2 Perc clowns 2 yellowtails damsels a
yellow tang a royal Gramma a yellow goby 125 gal tank, with 75lbs live
rock. Should I try to beat this with the garlic soaked food and seaweed
or should I net him and put him in qt for a week or 2 with meds?
<Garlic may have some value as a preventative, but the jury is still
out as to its effectiveness as a "cure". I'd rely on more
traditional treatment regimes.> If so what do you suggest? <Well,
my recommended course of action doesn't endear me to every
hobbyist- but here it is: I'd remove ALL of the fishes from the
display tank, even the ones that are not showing symptoms. If an
infected fish has been placed in the display, there is a good
possibility that the parasites that cause ich are in the tank now, and
that the other fishes have been exposed to it. I'd treat the fish
that are showing signs of the illness with a commercial copper sulphate
remedy (follow manufacturer's instructions to the letter, and test
for copper concentration). Meanwhile, the display tank should run
"fallow", without fishes, for about a month. In the absence
of potential hosts, the parasite population will "crash", and
their numbers will be dramatically reduced to a level that otherwise
healthy fishes should withstand. This is a very conservative course of
action, it's not fun- but it really works. Believe me, it's
absolutely awful to watch one fish after another contract this disease,
especially after you think that you've licked it...Hope this helps!
Scott F>
Tangling With Quarantine Hello; <Hi there! Scott F. here
today> Just wondering what your take is on
quarantining hippo tangs. I want to buy one and plan on
quarantining it for a couple of weeks. A friend of mine read here that
you people don't believe in quarantining this particular fish and I
would like to know the reasons for that. Want to make the right
decision. Thank
you. Craig <Well, Craig- I'd have to disagree with whoever
suggested that you should not quarantine this fish. The Hippo Tang is
notorious as an "ich magnet", and tends to be particularly
prone to acquiring this disease. It is for that very reason that it
should be quarantined. I suppose the school of thought which suggests
not quarantining this, and other species of tangs assumes that they are
more stressed out by the quarantine process. Again- I tend to disagree.
It seems to me that a fish which is easily stressed should be a prime
candidate for quarantine. I would not, however, use medications, such
as copper, with this or any fish, unless the appearance of disease
dictates. Tangs have digestive bacteria that can be easily damaged by
prolonged exposure to copper. In the end, though- quarantine all new
fishes a minimum of three weeks. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
This Hippo Is A Sicko...(Treating a Sick Hippo Tang) Thank
you for the info...much appreciated...."freshwater" dip
instructions very clear...thank you...I unfortunately have more
questions regarding this...I was able to find a Methylene blue 5%
solution...the only directions on the package say to add one drop per
gallon of water...is this for a QT tank or a dip? I don't know how
much of this stuff to add to dip and how much water do I want for the
dip --- 1 gal , 2 gal? <I use a decidedly "low tech"
approach...I use a 3- 5 gallon bucket, and add enough Methylene blue to
color the water a deep, royal blue color...simple as that. Methylene
blue is gentle to pretty much every fish that you'd commonly
encounter in the hobby, so it's pretty hard to mess this up,
IMO!> I understand that the time in dip will depend on condition of
fish...I have never dipped a fish before...Just want to do it right the
first time so now life lost...after dip I plan to QT for four weeks per
your instruction and let display go fallow. <Yep- let the main
system run fallow for a month. As far as the dip duration, I'd
shoot for at least 3 to 5 minutes (preferably 5 minutes) > Can I
leave the invertebrates (snails, crabs, orange Linckia, coral banded
shrimp, feather duster, etc.) in display while fish are out...Will it
still go fallow? <Yep- this is fine...The inverts are not thought to
be hosts for the parasitic illnesses that we're talking about>
Also do I keep specific gravity and temp normal in the display
throughout this process? <I would, personally. In fact, if you are
keeping the inverts in the main tank, then you really cannot mess with
the specific gravity. Some people like the lower specific gravity
approach in a fallow tank...I have not done this myself, and have been
very successful with the fallow route...your call here> Do I do
water changes, and how frequent during this "fallowing"
period? <Follow your regular maintenance schedule, which I hope
includes at least weekly, if not more frequent, water changes> In
the QT tank , during the copper treatments for velvet, should I include
fish that show no symptoms in order to let main go fallow...I have a
royal Gramma that looks fine and eats great...and a clown goby that has
had a couple of white circles on him off and on for a couple days...Is
this velvet too? <Hard to say- but better safe than sorry. I would
include the fishes that are showing no signs of infection, as they have
been exposed. If you have an extra tank, and are leery about copper
sulphate, you can put the "not-yet-showing-symptoms" fishes
in there, without copper.> Spots don't look grainy or salt like
, it looks soft and "velvety"( excuse the term) which makes
me think it is ...the Hippo is more covered not circles...and is still
not eating...I have continued offering algae sheets, Tetra Marine Color
flakes, and brine shrimp, I have only seen him eat a few
flakes one time since we've had him(2-25) any
suggestions on what else I could offer, especially while in QT
<Hippos are more "planktivorous" than most other tang
species, so I'd try frozen Mysis shrimp. And I'd enrich all
foods at this point with a nutritional supplement, such as Selcon>
Should I get a vitamin supplement of some sort ? any recommendations?
<Yep! You hit it on the head...I'd use Vita Chem, and administer
it directly into the water in the hospital tank. This way, the fish can
absorb or drink the preparation...Important for fishes that are
fighting an illness> I live in Illinois and the local stores are
terrible about information and not to mention product availability...so
it might take a couple days for me to order something... <Well, give
the LFS a try first, but if you can't locate the products you need,
then definitely mail order...Getting the copper sulphate is more
important than the vitamin preparations at this point...You should be
able to find a product like Copper Safe or Cupramine
locally> Thank you for all your help , I really
appreciate it...In the mean time I'll continue to re-read the info
on WWM and await your response...Thank You again...J. Smith
<You're quite welcome! Just hang in there, take decisive action,
and the fishes should recover nicely! Good luck! Regards, Scott
F>
This Hippo Is A Sicko (Pt. 2) Thank you thank
you thank you....you cleared up so many of my questions!
<Really glad to hear that!> I picked up CopperSafe today and I am
in the process of setting up the dip. I couldn't find a
copper test at my LFS....will be ordering one online tonight...will
probably hold off on adding copper till tomorrow so I can be sure of
testing it (it will take 2 days to get kit). <Very wise! Always test
concentration of copper> I will definitely do freshwater dip and get
them into QT right away ...I am also scheduled for water change
today...Thank you again for sharing your knowledge with me It is very
much appreciated....I feel much better after your reply...good day, J.
Smith <Always happy to help! You're gonna do fine! Good luck!
Regards, Scott F>
Black Spots On A Blue Tang? Hi all, <Scott F. with you
today!> For the past month or so my Blue Regal has gone through a
major sickness. At first it looked like ich, but after it
cleared up in quarantine, he had white bumps along his body. Since
then, he and the other tankmates traveled to Las Vegas from Illinois
and all were doing great in their new environment. The Blue
Tang even cleared up and got his color back. Now, his bumps
have returned and there are mostly black spots throughout his body, but
still having the protrusions. <Certainly sounds parasitic in nature,
to me. Hard to say, without a picture- but it sure sounds that way!>
I've begun freshwater dips, but I don't know what he has and
how to continue treating it. He continues to eat normally
(vitamin C enriched algae, flakes soaked in garlic, etc) and is not
changing behavior (not rubbing against rocks or
hiding). What can you suggest? Chris Karl <Well, Chris-
the fact that he's eating is a very good sign. I like the idea of
freshwater dips; I hope that they will work better down the line for
you. Perhaps you could increase the duration of the dips to more than 5
minutes...I'm a bit leery to recommend an aggressive treatment,
like copper, unless we can ascertain exactly what this is we are
dealing with. Another thought- you could try one of the medicated foods
that are available from a number of manufacturers. Assuming we are
dealing with a parasitic affliction, I'd get one that is
anti-parasitic (duh). Since the fish is feeding well, medicated food
may be helpful. Do peruse the disease FAQs on the WWM site to try to
get a positive ID on what you're dealing with...Good luck with your
efforts! See ya soon! Scott F>
Dip for Tang (7-26-03) How long of a preventative dip should
I give a Paracanthurus? Also, should I put anything into the dip? <I
would do 8-10 minutes. Just make sure the PH and temp are
good. Cody>
A Disagreement of Opinions Among Crewmembers Re:
QT? >I just read in your hippo tang FAQs where it says not
quarantining and placing new specimens in the main tank after a few
bath was preferable. >>(Groan) This woman STRONGLY
disagrees. >I find that surprising since I have read on the site
that "everything wet" should be quarantined before entering
the tank. >>Let me just say that the majority of us are in total
agreement of this policy, though we might disagree about sufficient q/t
time (I'm a strong advocate of a 30 day minimum). >I have a
relatively new blue tang addition to my 90 gal which I didn't qt
and he has had mild ich since a week after arriving. >>Uh oh.
>It wasn't the advice of WWM that precluded me not QTing,. It
was the fact the damsels in the tank for 2 mo.s previous never showed
signs of any problems. Joe Culler >>I will strongly
suggest you look for the writings of Terry Bartelme on ich and its
lifecycle, how and why it may rear its ugly head. You will also find in
his writings and here what to do now that you have an infestation in
your display. Marina
- Recuperating Hippo Tang - Howdy Crew -
Hope this finds you well! <It does, thanks for asking.> About
7 weeks ago I very emotionally purchased a very ill and mistreated
hippo tang. The store gave him to me for almost nothing
and I have slowly nursed him back to health. <Have attempted
this type of rescue myself - honorable when it goes well,
depressing when it doesn't.> He was severely emaciated, had
a nice run of head and lateral line erosion, small case of ich and
scales that appeared to be rotting away. On the upside
he was eating well and fairly active. After almost two months of
great water quality, one run of Nitrofurazone a few formalin baths
and a run of Metronidazole he has made drastic improvement.
<Excellent - glad to hear this.> He has regained color and
plumped up quite nicely. He is in a 35g hospital and is
almost 6" long. It is time to get him to his new home (sadly
not mine) but I have just one last concern. If you look
at the photo you will see his face is a mess. That is
the worst area he has left. There is no infection still
(to my knowledge) yet the scales are not showing any
regrowth or repair. I am wondering if this an issue of
time or if it may never happen. <A little of both, methinks.>
Could he be permanently scarred? <Is a possibility.> Is their
something I can do to help this along? <Just time.> Can you
see or think of anything else I should be concerned with before
moving him? <A good home.> As always, a big Thank You!
Amanda
<Cheers, J -- > |
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- Refugee Regal Tangs - About three years
ago I bought three Regal Tangs from the LFS that looked terrible.
Someone had given them to the pet shop because they were unable to
care for them. The pet shop had them in a QT and they were on sale
for two bucks each because they were really bad shape. Well to make
a long story short, they lived. Their behavior is normal, they eat
well and everything seems fine except that they still look
terrible. They look like they went through world war three. <No
kidding.> Enclosed is a picture of one of them. <Yeah... not
a pretty sight.> Their tail fins are so damaged you can see
their flesh. They also have what I think is HLLE. I have
tried various diets, flake, brine shrimp, Spirulina, Romaine
lettuce. <Only one thing on that list really sounds suitable to
me... and beyond that you've said little about the system these
fish live in. Could be a factor of crowding and diet. I would
consider a constant rotation of live rock, with some rock in a
separate tank being prepared for use in the tank, and then swapped
for the rock in the tank when the algae has taken hold on the
stored rock. That and the occasional Mysis shrimp along with a
heavy dose of vitamins. Also real seaweeds, like Nori for sushi
also soaked in vitamins should work. Brine shrimp have little to no
nutritional value, same with many flake foods, and lettuce is a
poor food for tangs... they may eat all of the above but it's
less than optimal. > Water parameters are very good. I just
can't seem to get the fish to heal and have been trying for
three years! I have never given them a fresh water treatment, do
you think I should? <No... don't think parasites are an
issue here, and that's really what freshwater dips are best
for.> Attached is a picture of one of them. Cheers
Mike F
<Cheers, J -- > |
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Quarantine of yellow-tail blue tang I have read your articles
about the blue tang (Paracanthurus hepatus), and see that you recommend
not quarantining this fish and introducing it directly to the tank.
I'm wondering if you can comment a little more on this...?
<Will try... Most Paracanthurus are relatively "clean" on
arrival (especially from some locales... like New Caledonia...) and if
you had, say, a thousand random specimens/trials, you would find (as I
have) that the vast majority of them (and their tank-mates) are better
off with this practice (pH adjusted freshwater dipping and placement in
the main/display system versus quarantine, particularly exposure to
copper, other metal salts).> I currently have a 55 gallon fish-only
tank with a single tank-raised Percula clownfish. There are no
parasites in the tank, and I would like to keep it that way ;].
<I understand> Doesn't placing the tang directly into the
tank (after a bath/dip) still pose a (significant?) risk of introducing
parasites into the tank which may then infect other fish? Thanks -
Keith <Not in my opinion... but would still avail myself of
biological cleaners... perhaps a Lysmata Shrimp or other (see the newly
spiffed up files on these on the www.WetWebMedia.com site for pix, more
on choices) or a Gobiosoma goby... Other Surgeonfishes are much more
prone to cause troubles of the sort you're trying to avoid...
they're surveyed on the WWM site. Bob Fenner>
Surgeonfishes: Tangs for Marine Aquariums
Diversity, Selection & Care
New eBook on Amazon: Available
here
New Print Book on Create Space: Available
here
by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
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