|
| |
|
FAQs about the Yellow-Tail Blue, Palette, Regal, Hippo Tang
Disease/Health 5 Related Articles: The Genus Paracanthurus,
Related FAQs: Pacific YTB
Tang Disease 1, Pacific YTB
Tang Disease 2, Pacific YTB Disease 3, Pacific YTB Disease
4, YTBT Health 6,
Tangs/Rabbitfishes
& Crypt,
&
Pacific
YTB Tang FAQs 2, Pacific YTB Tang FAQs 1, Pacific
YTB Tang FAQs 2,
Pacific YTB Tang FAQs 3,
Pacific YTB Tang FAQs 4, PYTB Tang ID,
PYTB Tang Behavior,
PYTB Tang Compatibility, PYTB Tang Selection,
PYTB Tang Systems,
PYTB Tang Feeding, PYTB Tang Reproduction, Surgeons
In General, Tang
ID, Selection, Tang
Behavior, Compatibility,
Systems, Feeding,
Disease,
|

|
Injured 6-line Wrasse, Treatment Options 10/23/07 Hi Wet Web Media Crew, <Hello> First of all, thanks for your great site. While in quarantine/hyposalinity, our Sixline Wrasse got himself stuck in a piece of live rock. My initial thought was to let him get himself out. <Usually best.> After about a week it became apparent that he would not be able to. We could just see part of him though one of the holes in the rock. I used a Dremel to carefully cut away the rock around him until I could gently get him out (He was lodged in there pretty good). I don't think we caused him any harm while getting him out; however, he cut himself up pretty bad during the week he was in there. <I bet.> He has several gashes on his side and belly, he is very discolor in certain areas (looks like he is missing all of the scales from about half his body), and he appeared very bloated/swollen. We dipped him in a Methyl Blue mixed with water from his tank for three minutes and placed him in his own 10gal hospital tank (temperature and salinity matched to the tank he was in, i.e. still hypo). <Good> I thought he was a goner but to my surprise he actually ate some Prime Reef flake food today (first day out of the rock). <They are quite resilient.> Now, to the questions: 1) Should we keep him in hypo or slowly raise the salinity? <Normally 1.025 would be best, but in this case I would not change anything that may increase stress and increase chance of infection. But work towards full strength salt water once it gets through this.> 2) Should we dip him in Methyl Blue/tank water occasionally to try and fight off infection? <I would.> 3) Is there anything else we can do to raise his chances of survival (e.g. medications, foods, additives, etc.)? <Quality foods, keep water quality high, and watch for signs of infection which would require stronger treatments.> Thanks in advance for your help. V/R, James and Beth <Welcome> <Chris>
Regal Tang, fin covering up small lump?
10/23/07 Quick question for ya... A question about a Regal Tang I have in quarantine. I believe the retailer had him for a week before I selected him as the best looking Regal Tang I've seen for months at a store. Nice colors, active, and plump. I did a pH and temperature adjusted freshwater dip for about 7-8mins. I've now had the tang for a week and he is feeding well on flake, pellet, meaty foods, and
Caulerpa I have in the tank. pH 8.2 Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 10ppm Salinity 1.025 Temp 26oc This has just developed over the past 24hrs.... The tang has a bit of swelling or a lump right behind it's right gill. The skin is still proper color... in fact I'd best describe it as a pimple forming under the skin. The lump is round
sort of like if you had shaved a few mm's off of a standard pencil eraser. Furthermore, the fish is not using the fin on that side of the body. It is evident that he can use it as the odd time he does... he was swimming fine all week. He still seems to swim around fine without using it much. When he's not using that fin, it almost completely covers the lump. Does this sound at all familiar? What can be done if anything? Dave <Mmm, might be physical (a trauma let's say), could be pathogenic (perhaps a parasite of some sort), but more harm to be done than not by overtly "treating" this fish at this point. Best to maintain high, consistent water quality. A note re the (sic) Caulerpa mentioned above. I would replace this with a less-noxious genus of algae... Likely a Gracilaria or Chaetomorpha species. Its toxicity might be working against you here. Bob Fenner>Using Metronidazole and Praziquantel... More re the Regal Tang bump
10/23/07 Hopefully I reach you in time as I'd like to recall my previous question regarding a Blue Tang with a developing lump on his side, where he is also not using the fin on that particular side of the body. <Am still here> After reading through 4 pages of Tang FAQ's, I think I have spotted two notes about what appears to be a similar issue. Bob's recommendation on the other notes in both instances was: <Have seen such markings before... usually geographically, seasonally expressed... Are likely either a protozoan or encysted worm presence... Can be treated serially with one dose of Flagyl/Metronidazole and an anthelminthic... (my choice, likely Prazi/quantel)... Both/all are covered on WWM. Bob Fenner> <Ah, yes> So, now that I likely know what it is I've read
through the article on Metronidazole, etc.. <Okay> My Tang is in a 24gallon Nano <Needs more room than this... oh, this is for treatment only I take it> with a very shallow crushed coral bed (less than one inch by far) with a small piece of liverock with a good growth of
Caulerpa. I'm a bit confused by the article. It seems to state that soaking food in Metro and then placing in the fridge for a few hours and then feeding to the fish is considered one dose. This seems to be associated with the treatment for freshwater fish who do not 'drink'?? Is this correct? <Is one way of administration... more "sure" as dosing/dosage than direct water treatment> For Marine fish,
long-term baths for about 3 hrs each day for 3 days?? Is the article suggesting filling a bucket with tank water that is aerated with the appropriate dose? <Is another approach> I'm just wondering if catching the fish, placing in a bucket for 3 hrs, catching the fish to put back into the tank x 3 days would severely stress out the fish? <Too much so, too likely, yes> Or, since it's only a 24gallon tank... should I add directly into the quarantine tank that has the crushed coral/piece of liverock, and then do a full water change (from my main display) daily for the three days? Is it ok to have a crushed coral bottom and/or a piece of liverock in their during the treatment? <Not if the medications are to be added directly to the water, no. Too likely diluting effects...> Will it harm the nicely growing
Caulerpa or should I take the liverock out for the three hours during the treatment? <Will not harm Caulerpaceans> Or... is it just as easy to soak the food and use that as the treatment? <This is best in most circumstances... given the fish/es are feeding> Soaking the food seems like a lot less work and easier to administer... at the same time, I want to ensure that I knock out this issue as quickly as possible without harm to the fish. The
recommendation to use Praziquantel as an additional cure/precaution... can I use both together? <Yes> Your article says to simply add 7.6mg/gallon. Can this go directly in the system with crushed coral and the liverock? <Yes, though will be affected to a degree...> How long do I keep it in there? <Indefinitely... will degrade in time> Can I do this while administering the Metronidazole via soaking food? Via adding Metronidazole directly into tank? <Yes, could> I have been doing 30% waterchanges on this 24gallon quarantine tank about 3 times every two weeks using 1/2 new mixed water and 1/2 system water for each water change. Although the Metro doesn't seem to conflict with water changes... do I keep up with water changes with Praziquantel if the Prazi is meant to be in the tank for a week or more? <Yes, or re-administer with water changing...> Apologies for all the questions... but there isn't much info on the Prazi and the article on the Metronidazole has me afraid of potentially killing the fish because I used it incorrectly. David Brynlund <Again, I would treat with nothing at this juncture if this were my ward. B>
Re: Using Metronidazole and Praziquantel
10/23/07
Hi Bob,
<David>
Thanks for the comments, it has helped... But now you have me even more
confused...
<Again, I would treat with nothing at this juncture if this were my ward. B>
Last night, the fish was using the other fin more... But the lump/pimply
like feature on his right side that used to be the same color as the rest of
the fish appears to becoming a bit discolored. Reading through your FAQ's
this does sound like an internal parasite and you had recommended others to
treat with the products I mentioned below. Why would I not treat this fish
for what appears to be a parasitic
infestation?
<... please see my comment/mantra above...>
The fish is still pretty chubby and feeds easily. Can this parasite work
it's way out of the fish leaving the fish healthy after a recovery period??
If it remains untreated and the parasite exits the fish... Can it not
re-enter the fish for a secondary
infestation?
David Brynlund
<Be patient, learn... B> Re: Regal Tang, fin covering
up small lump? 10/24/07
Ok.
The Caulerpa is just naturally growing on the liverock. Should i pull it out?
Move it to the main display? Any chance of... if this is a parasite that perhaps
it may also be present in the liverock thus i shouldn't move the liverock to a
main display?
<If only a "small piece" I would not worry re toxicity... leave it in place.
BobF>
|
Hippos... Quarantine? –
08/17/07
Just a quick question... in Bob's book as well as on your website, it is
suggested to place Hippo Tangs directly into the main display without quarantine
to reduce the stress of multiple catch and release out of quarantine. Are you
still of this opinion? In my past experience, a Hippo I had about 4yrs ago
seemed to be a 'Crypt' magnet.
<Mmm, Paracanthurus are not "as bad" as such compared with many other
Surgeonfish species... and my opinion is "it depends"... "IF" the specimen looks
otherwise in good health, it can be isolated for a time... to assess its
health... However, it can be peremptorily FW dipped and placed in most cases>
Would u expect a Hippo Tang, aside from adding nice colors to a tank,
assist in mowing done some green hair algae?
<Depends on the species of algae... not many are palatable... and many that look
"Green" are not... are often BGA, which is entirely undesired>
I will be adding a Foxface after a 4 week quarantine which I'm thinking will
further assist
in a green grassy hair algae problem. Note, the tank is 200gallons FOWLR.
David Brynlund
<Hotay! BobF>
Hippo
tang with Popeye... not using WWM 8/14/07
I have a 55 gallon saltwater tank.
<Too small to house Paracanthurus...>
We purchased 2 percula clown fish, 1 potters angelfish,
<Not easily kept>
1 hippo tang and 1cleaner shrimp. We had the fish 2 weeks and
noticed the tang and angel had ick. I started treating the tank with
kick ick
<Worthless>
every 2 days. I noticed the hippo wouldn't let the angel get cleaned
by the shrimp, so I purchased a second cleaner shrimp. I thought
they were doing better. We did a partial water change then in two
weeks did another water change, put back in the carbon filters,
turned back on the skimmer, thought they looked good, stopped using
the kick ick. The angelfish died the next day. So, I took out carbon
filters and unplugged skimmer and went back to using the kick ick,
every 3 days now. Tang looked good but I noticed white on the outer
side of one eye when the fish would shift its eyes, but overall eye
looked good solid black. A week has gone by and today the tang has
Popeye in one eye.
<Unilateral... mechanical injury...>
I bought MelaFix
<Also worthless>
to treat tank. My question is should I be treating the tang with
something stronger ( a real anti-biotic) for this.
<No...>
I don't want to try this for a few days to find the tang dead. I
know antibiotic will kill shrimp - I will take them back to fish
store,
<Along with the Crypt? I doubt they'll be happy>
not worried about that. I want the tang to live - he has been sick
for over a month now and i am worried he cant take much more. he
still eats well, body mass looks good. ick spots are gone but i am
still treating the tank because he is still scratching and getting
cleaned by shrimp. He hides alot always scratching his eyes and fins
against objects in tank. please help. I was crushed to lose the
angelfish. Thanks a lot, KMS
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/Popeyecures.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
sorry about the file size on pics, I forgot to check it before
hitting send. thanks again.
<No worries. RMF> |
|
 |
Hippo Tang... not reading
ahead of purchase, writing... hlth.? 7/30/07
Hi! I am new to this forum but have found the info here to be very
useful.
I bought a hippo tang about 3 days ago, it is only about 1 - 2 inches long.
Her behavior has been odd. The first night she turned colors and laid on the
bottom
<A "normal" behavior of/for this species>
of the tank almost pale white, I tested all the levels in the tank and every
thing was perfect. The next day, she was bright and doing great.
Today she is acting strange again, she is brushing up against the hermit
crabs that we have in the tank and we found her a little while ago under the
largest crab almost being bit by it.
<Yikes! Hermits are often opportunistic predators...>
We took the net and pushed the crab off. Now the Hippo is turning pale
again, may possibly have some pinch marks and is swimming at the top of the
tank, almost bobbing up and down. Is this just stressed behavior or do you
believe that she is not going to recover from the crab? Any help would be
greatly appreciated. Thank you, Julie Riggs
<... no info. of use here... re the system, history, water quality
values/testing... Foods/feeding, tankmates... No quarantine? Please, read
here: http://wetwebmedia.com/paracant.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Bacterial infection of blue tang?
7/19/07
Dear Crew,
Any ideas what type of infection my new blue tang could have had that came on in
24 hours when just yesterday there were no signs/symptoms?
<Yes... such events can be very rapid onset indeed>
Tonight it had frayed dorsal and anal fins, almost swollen in appearance, no
redness. It became listless and the area directly under the dorsal fin and an
area near the anal fin looked bleached out. Eyes were clear, no open sores,
scratches; very rapid breathing. I took it out of my QT and moved it into a
isolation tank and was gone in about an hour. Now I'm worried about the two
other fish in my QT.
Thank you,
Jeff
<Mmm, and I'm curious as to what species these other fishes are... It might well
be that some degree of territorial et al. aggression is at play to an extent
here... Bob Fenner>
Regal has
"pimples" – 06/29/07
Hello All,
Here is my problem. About a week ago I noticed two small lumps on
the side of our Regal Tang. They didn't concern me at the time
because the fish is a "mutant." What I mean by that is, it eats ALL
the time and looks as if it is ready to explode. It is by far the
healthiest looking tang I have ever seen, even in some of the best
aquariums in the country. Getting back to the problem, tonight my
wife told me the tang was ill. I asked if she meant the lumps on the
side and she said, "Yes, and also by his mouth."
Well, I took a good look at it and low-and-behold, there on the
right side of his face was a small spot about the size of a match
head and the two lumps on his left side had "morphed" All three
looked as if they were "pimples" as humans would get that had come
to a head.
We have a 75gl. tank stocked with a Percula Clown, Neon Dottyback, a
very young Coral Beauty, a Lyretail Anthius,2 Skunk Cleaner Shrimp,
a Hermit Crab which was picked up from a local marsh years ago) and
of coarse the Regal Tang.
There is approx. 60-70lbs. of live rock on a 2" bed of crushed
coral.
Bio-wheel filtration with a HOB Prizm skimmer, and two power heads.
Parameters are good, temp at 72-74 degrees.
7-10gl. water changes every two weeks.
Fish are fed every other day a variety of frozen Mysis, brine
shrimp, fresh fish roe, phytoplankton and ground Nori, which ALL the
fish consume readily. There is also an over abundance of Caulerpa
growing in the tank which has contributed to the tang being so
obese.
Hopefully the photos sent will aid in identifying what ails the fish
and will help lead to a cure.
Thanks for your time and response,
Mark
<Have seen such markings before... usually geographically,
seasonally expressed... Are likely either a protozoan or encysted
worm presence... Can be treated serially with one dose of
Flagyl/Metronidazole and an anthelminthic... (my choice, likely
Prazi/quantel)... Both/all are covered on WWM. Bob Fenner>
|
|
RMF unable to change image files for posting |
|
Blue tang in danger!! Inappropriate home
6/6/07
Hi there,
<Hello>
Here is my setup (or what I know of it... I bought it used for 200$ from a
guy on the net who said he did not have time to care for it anymore).
33Gal tank
one Fluval 303 and two power head in there is three large live rock two
clownfish
1 cleaner shrimp (used to be two but lost one in a day of big heat before
the A/C was installed)
about 4-5 turbo snail and more I don’t know about yet !
Yesterday I decided to do a little tweezers treatment on my live rocks as
there where many fireworms and I saw them eat away at a snail who is now
dead of course! <Mostly likely dead or dying already, and they were just
cleaning up.>
I also carried out a cleaning of the live sand and replaced about 40% of the
water (maybe too much here !) <I would limit it to 25% unless there is a
real emergency.>
This morning I noticed that my blue tang was staying at the bottom and
breathe very rapidly he refuses to eat I am afraid I might lose it !
<This tank is way to small for a blue tang, they need a tank at least 100G
larger than what you have.>
Water parameters are (ammonia 0 to 0.1 hard to read !! NO2 is 0 and no3 is
about 50 ! salinity is 1.0235
Used to range in the 1.024 to 1.025 when I first got it (that might also be
it the reason right ?) <Not likely, not enough of a change.>
There does not seem to be any spots other than the HLLE that it came with
which is very minimal and concentrated in the eye area (not in the yes but
in front)
I don’t really know what to look for I think I might have an Aiptasia
outbreak but they are very little about 1-2 mm diameter and 5-7 mm long and
there are two large ones about 1cm wide to 2-3cm long buried in the live
sand. <Not the source of your problem here.>
I will include pictures of the Aiptasia and other life forms found for
referral.
Please help my tang !!! It does not want to die !
Thanks !
<Not much to go on here. First guess would be that there was a fall in water
quality, either an ammonia spike, or too drastic of a change in temp, pH, or
other parameter when you conducted the water change. Could also be the first
signs of ich or other parasite, they attack the gills first. Either way the
long term survival of this fish is doubtful in such a small tank honestly.
Also please spell and grammar check your mails before sending them,
correcting them before posting takes away time we could be using to answer
questions.>
<Chris> |
.JPG) |
.jpg) |
Blue tang got
itch 6/1/07
Hi Jason,
<Hello, but no Jason here, Chris with you.>
I have had my hippo blue tang for 9 months in my Nano 24 g wt LR & LS. <Way
way way too small for this fish, doomed to an early death if kept in this
tank for much longer.> He's been doing well but today I saw white spots on
over his skin body. He tries to scratch his body to LR, so I know for sure
that is itch. I have changed 10-20% water weekly, but recently my nitrate is
raised up (25-30ppm).
1) What cause itch for my tang? <The parasite Cryptocaryon irritans.>
2) After I saw he is itch, I changed 5 gal. water right away, is it helpful?
<Not terribly, needs to be treated for the parasite, see here for more
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm .>
3) Should I use any medication such as Nox-itch? and how to treat him? Can
itch spread to the other fish? <See link above.>
Pls advice
Thanks in advance
Hanson
<Much to read here, check out the marine disease section for more.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm .>
<Chris>
Re: Blue tang got itch 6/03/07
Thanks for your reply, I read your links about the parasite disease and
treatment. The only problem I face that I don't have Qt. <Really limiting
your choices here.> I have 1 clown,1 Chromis, 1 tang & 1 goby, 1 rose
anemone, 1 open brain & 1 zoan. Should I treat my itch tang with copper in
main tank? <No, tangs don't respond to copper particularly well, and it will
kill all your invertebrates.> How to do the freshwater dip ? Pls more
specific. <http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-10/sp/feature/index.php >
Or should I move all corals to some place else and put copper med in main
tank? <Won't work, would need to remove all live rock and sand as well, also
copper would bind with the silicon and release over time.> If so, what
should I do to eliminate copper in main tank after treatment done? <Can't
really.> Or what's your advice.
Thanks in advance
Hanson
<Really your only hope here without a hospital tank is to keep up the water
quality and feed good foods and hope the fish develop an immunity, but the
Ich will always be present in the system until it can run fallow, so all new
additions will suffer. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.>
<Chris>
Blue Regal Tang has been beaten up! What can I do? 5/20/07
Hi
<Hello, Brenda here>
I have a Regal Tang (Paracanthurus Hepatus) (2 in.) it got beaten up today
by a 3 stripe damsel. It is pretty bad. It is still alive but is swimming
with its nose up most of the time, if not that it is on the bottom of the
fish tank. I moved it in to another tank with two clown fishes (2 in.) Is
there any thing I can do to help it. I really like this fish.
<Pristine water conditions and keeping it away from any aggressive fish, and
waiting is all you can do for now.>
Thank you
<You’re welcome! I’ll keep my fingers crossed for you! Brenda>
Blue Tang with Ick, no useful info. 5/3/07
Hey guys, love the site. I have an emergency. I have a blue tang in
a QT tank (have had for 4 days). She has mega-ick and is dying. What do
I do for her? (I'm trying hypo salinity and 5 minute FW dips. I fear for
her life...
-Jay
<... Hopefully you helped yourself... and your fish/es... and have been
reading:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm
and the pertinent files linked above. Bob Fenner>
Blue tang disease, infection?
5/2/07
I read through your site often and refer people here all the
time. I own a fish store and have occasionally come across this same
situation. Mostly only occurs with Blue Tangs. When I received this
fish she was fine and beautiful. I performed my normal acclimation
procedure for all of my new fish.
<Does this/it entail a dip/bath? What chemicals do you use if so? Is it
pH adjusted?>
I have had this blue tang for over a week now, she eats, and is fat and
healthy, when I came into my store yesterday she had swelling on top of
her head, as if she had un into something and injured herself (which is
common for them to get spooked from customers etc),
<Yes>
in this situation I observe and do my best to keep them eating and calm,
<Best to place such fishes in "high" up and away tanks...>
today when I came into the store the top of her head is rotting
away. My system holds
approximately 600 gallons, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0. This system
always contains copper.
<Mmm... not uncommon, but not recommended>
and specific gravity is at 1.019.
<And... I'd keep this a few thousandths higher...>
All other fish in same system are fine, including other blue tangs,
which have been in system for over a month. In the tank with this blue
tang is (Vlamingi tang, Leopard Blenny, Klein's butterfly, Foxface Lo,
Longnosed hawk). I have included some pictures in hopes you can help me
to identify what this could be, I love all of my fish and only want to
help them the best I can.
Thank you so much
Wendy
<Very nice specimens... judging from the very yellow underside... from
New Caledonia or thereabouts... Likely the damage initiated in capture,
holding, shipping... but the copper exposure and unnaturally too-low spg
is not helping... If this fish were mine, I would remote it to your
invertebrate system (in a good sized/volume tank) as you likely do with
your seahorses, pipefishes, clowns... Sans the copper and with NSW spg
of course there. Further... if I might influence you, I encourage you to
revise your receiving protocol and do away with constant copper use. The
rationale, instructions for these is posted... on WWM. Bob Fenner> |
|
 |
Dips, Hippos - 05/01/07
Dear WetWeb,
I have been reading on hippo tangs and Am confused. Because I read in
you info about hippos that you should fresh water dip them and then
place them into the display tank. I thought that this web site strongly
believed in the QT. Please help me try to understand why you should not
QT a fish that is so prone to illness. Jeff
<Read on! Some fishes are better not dipped... for what apparent good it
will do them, you... versus the stress and strain, likely induced
problems from said procedure... Keep reading. Bob Fenner>
Cannot Identify the Problem, Paracanthurus parasite... inside the skin
bumps 4/9/07
Crew,
<Darren>
Thanks for the great information on your site. It is the best online source for
marine aquariums I have found.
I am having a problem with my Palette Tang that I have not been able to
identify. I've looked on your site as well as used Google to find our what it is
with no success. It has developed small white bumps that look like pimples or
poison ivy. The bumps look much too large to be Ich. They are not the small
salt-like bumps that I have seen or read about. It has also developed pop-eye in
its one eye, which I assume he developed when scratching himself, because of the
bumps. These are the only signs I have seen so far. He is eating and breathing
normally, and showing no abnormal behavior. I have not found anywhere that
describes these symptoms. Does Ich sometimes appear larger than salt-grains?
<Rarely>
I don't know what else it could be.
My tanks has 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and 40 ppm nitrates. I know my nitrates are
high. I am currently curing live rock to replace my bio-balls in my wet-dry
filter. I do a minimum 10% water changes weekly, and I clean my filters every
other week. Thanks for the help. I much appreciate the time you all volunteer to
help your fellow aquarists.
Darren
<These spots are apparently not on the outside of the specimen? That is, they
appear to be bumps pushing up from under the skin? There are two common
possibilities here... a protozoan and worm... Can be treated with
Metronidazole/Flagyl for the first, an anthelminthic for the second (my choice,
Praziquantel). Notes, details on using these are posted on WWM.
http://wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm
Scroll down to therapeutics.
Bob Fenner>
Blue hippo (regal) tang changing tanks, En-Crypt-ed systems
3/11/07
Hello again, I hope you are doing well, whomever responds to this email.
<Yes, thank you>
I have a small Regal tang in a 29 gallon BioCube as temporary housing until it
moves to my 92 gallon (when I say small I mean about 2 to 3 inches).
<Needs more room, psychologically, now>
It had it's bout with ich
<Also stress related...>
and rather than move it to treat it with copper ( I have read this is bad for
the digestive system of tangs)
<Yes>
I decided to purchase a small UV sterilizer, which in time took care of the
problem,
<Mmm, no>
I have not seen a spot in months. My question is, since I know I've had ich in
my 92 gallon tank and did not treat for it and all the fish got over it, should
I worry about doing a freshwater dip?
<Mmm, I would not worry, but I would do the dip>
The Regal tang has been in the BioCube for a long time, at least 4 months, it is
eating like a pig and appears quite healthy. I am paranoid about doing the
freshwater dip, I have seen it done and it did not turn out well ( Purple tang
). I would like to acclimate to the new system (not new a year old) and place
the Regal tang in it without
<Okay... will likely not make "much" difference... Depending on the resident
ich/Crypt populations, there might be some synergism, or unrelated strengthening
on their part...>
causing it any added stress. What is your opinion on this idea? I currently
have a Kole tang, Clownfish, and a Blue Flavivertex Pseudochromis in the 92
gallon tank, do you think any of these would pick on the new fish?
<Hopefully not>
I know you will probably say that is too many fish for a 92 gallon tank, but all
are small and I will rehouse if need be. Any advice or opinions on this would
be very appreciated. Thank you, Ryan. Please forgive any misspellings, I
checked my spell check and all appeared well. Thanks again, Ryan.
<Looks good... I would move this fish. Bob Fenner>
Marine Ich, Paracanthurus 3/6/07
Crew,
I need your help. My 90 gallon FOWLR finished cycling 2 weeks ago. I
quarantined my Snowflake Moray and Dogface Puffer,
<Will need more room>
together during the cycling process, which was about 6 weeks. I purchased them
together, from the same tank, at my LFS so I thought quarantining them together
would be ok. After introducing them, I began a shorter quarantine for my Hippo
Tang.
I read in CMA that Bob doesn't necessarily think that quarantining a Hippo
is necessary or even good,
<Often more damage than good... better to do a pH-adjusted FW bath... along with
good specimen selection of course>
I thought that since I purchased the tang from a different LFS than the eel and
puffer that I should QT. I compromised and QT'd for 2 weeks. Quarantine was
over on Thursday and I added the Hippo.
All was fine. Did a 20 gallon water change on Saturday, with well-aged
RO/DI water. Tests were 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrites and less then 3 Nitrate (using
completely submerged open-pore cell material and sintered glass noodles really
keep Nitrates down. All are 0 now!
Anyway, I left the house for 2 1/2 hours yesterday and when I returned the
Hippo had the worst case of Ich that I have ever seen! I probably am guilty of
sharing nets between tanks. This is the only thing I could think of, based on
the precautions I took.
I needed to act fact and unfortunately do not have access to my
quarantine/hospital tank because it is "off-site" at girlfriend because of space
constraints in my apartment and of course, she is away so I though my best
option was to lower the salinity.
<Mmm, not likely efficacious>
I am assuming that all the fish are infected which is another reason for doing
the hypo-salinity route as each of my aqua-buddies have different tolerances for
meds. I typically keep the tank at 1.025 by refractometer, so I am going to drop
it to 1.018 as soon as the water warms up.
<This is w/in a safe-range... just not useful as a treatment mode>
Am i doing the right thing? i know I need to go out tomorrow and buy
another QT/hospital tank.
<Yes>
Don't room for much more than a 20 here and hope the eel (small), puffer and
Tang (if he pulls through), can coexist in a 20 for 6 weeks while the 90 gallon
goes fallow.
What would you guy/gals do?
Thanks
Roy
<I would have dipped/bathed the incoming tang (on the way to the Q and the
DT)... and read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/crypttangs.htm
and as much of the linked files above as it takes to understand your situation
and options. Bob Fenner>
Hippo tang in need of immediate help - possibly ringworm?
Hyposalinity... 3/5/07
Dear Bob,
<Ryan>
I searched high and low on your website for an answer to this question
but I could not find one. I was hoping you could shed some light on the
issue and put me out of my ignorance. This hippo tang has rings all over
its body.
<I see this>
I have enclosed some pictures for you to see. Currently, the fish is in
hyposalinity to get rid of ich. The specific gravity is at 1.008,
<This is a/the problem... Paracanthurus don't do well in such low salt
densities... See WWM re Crypt, Hyposalinity... this is simple stress
marking>
ammonia and nitrite are 0, nitrates are 10, temperature is 79, and the
pH is 8.3. I have had people say that it was the beginning of head and
lateral line erosion, gas bubble disease, or maybe, side effects of
hyposalinity.
<Bingo>
I performed hyposalinity on two times in the past in a quarantine tank
and have never seen this happen to a fish. Any advice you can offer
would be very much appreciated.
Sincerely,
Ryan Smith
<BobF> |
|
 |
Ich on blue tang 2/20/07
Hi guys,
<And girls, too! *grin*>
thanks for providing such a great site. My name is Janet and I am just starting
my marine aquarium journey.
<Hi Janet. My name is JustinN. Welcome to AA -- Aquatics Anonymous ;) >
I have a blue tang about 8cm which I introduced to my 4ft tank around 5 weeks
ago. I did not know about quarantining then but I do now.
<I will spare you the soapbox then, my friend.>
There is around 30kg of live rock, 2 tomato clowns, 1 coral beauty, 1 blue
wrasse and 1 reef butterfly. At the moment I don't have a skimmer but will next
week.
<Ok>
My levels are all good, nitrites 0, ammonia 0, nitrates 20ppm
<A tad high, see if you can identify the source here.>,
specific grav. 1.022
<Likewise, a tad low.. should be maintained at Natural Seawater levels (1.025)>
and pH 8.4. My blue tang developed white spots yesterday and also has a pop-eye
(maybe from trying to scratch) and she kept going up to the wrasse for a clean I
think.
<Too likely to have had the ich from the get-go; this is a parasite that does
not just appear on its own, must be carried in by a host. Tangs are also known
as 'ich magnets' because of their proficiency in contracting major outbreaks of
the parasite.>
I have a 35ltr tank that I am now using as a hospital tank. I gave her a
freshwater dip with methylene blue for 4 min.s then put her into the 35ltr tank
which I had pre-dosed with 5mls of Ichonex (Aquasonic).
<Not an appropriate product. Not sure of its effectiveness in freshwater
applications, but this product is marketed as a freshwater ich solution -- the
two parasites are not the same.>
The directions on the bottle say to treat half doses on day 2 and 3. My hosp.
tank has a sponge filter and noodles in it,
<Mmm, fish soup!>
no substrate and just a few ornaments for her to hide in. What I want to know is
am I on the right path and is there any extra advise you can give me? thanks
heaps, Janet.
<Well, Janet, you've got the right idea with quarantine now, in hindsight. Don't
feel too bad about the oversight, it happens to all of us. The human condition
is to learn via mistakes. However, your medication choice is simply not
effective, and who knows how it may actually be affecting your fish! You need a
treatment based on copper here, and likewise, you will need to quarantine all
your fishes outside of your display tank for an extended period. If one fish is
ich-infested, your entire display is now carrying the parasite, even if certain
fish aren't showing outward signs of problems. Any of the fish can, and will,
act as a host carrier for the parasite until you treat for it properly, which
involves a treatment in a copper solution for all of your fishes, while leaving
your display tank 'fallow' (active and running, but unoccupied) for a minimum of
6 weeks, to allow for the life cycle of the parasite to run its course, without
a host to allow reproduction. After this point, you will be safe to move your
aquatic charges back to their home. Have a read here for more information:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichart2mar.htm -JustinN>
Tang Troubles 2/14/07
To whom it may concern,
<Hi>
I have recently bought a blue tang. And am having some difficulties getting
him to eat and even come out of hiding. He constantly is lying on his side.
My pH was out but is now right and is 8.3 and I had to buffer my water.
<Shock> I also had no bacteria and had to put bacteria starter in. <Uncycled
tank? First Fish? Need more info.> He is still not eating and is still not
coming out what do I do please help.
thank you for your time. hayalz
<Sounds like you have an uncycled tank and related poor water quality. This
would explain the tang's behavior. Please see here for more http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm
.>
<Chris>
| |
|