Aqua C ev-180 skimmer, sump inst.   -- 10/21/2009
Hello crew,
<Hello, Ed and/ or Lisa>
I have a quick one for you. I have my skimmer sitting in my sump, is there any way i can quite down the splashing of water coming out of the gate valve without affecting the performance? My gate valve opening sits about 1" above my water line.
<2 common ways: zip tie some filter wool or a filter sock to the opening, or make a platform out of something like eggcrate and place a sponge on top. I'm sure there are other ways; you can probably think of a few creative ways. You'll find that this cuts down on evaporation, too.>
Thanks again
<No problemo. Will N.>

Protein Skimmer Help: Skimmer adjustment After moving from HOB to Sump 10/7/2009
Hi WWM crew!
<Hi Mark.>
I moved my protein skimmer from the hang on position in the back of my tank to in my sump yesterday.
I removed the hard plastic tubing and put the pump directly on the bottom attachment of the protein skimmer then submerged the pump, and about 1/4-1/3 of the protein skimmer, in my sump.
<Is this a SeaClone? If so, please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seacloneskimfaqs.htm >
Since then I can not get a great bubble cyclone in the cylindrical part of the protein skimmer. I must have spent 2-3 hours adjusting the valve on the end on the air tube line but no success. I can get a tiny, not well formed, semi chaotic cyclone but not what it used to be when it was hanging on the back of the tank.
<That sounds more and more like a SeaClone.>
I checked everything is tight, no leaks. Any trouble shooting suggestions?
<How deep is the pump? If it is a SeaClone, and it is more than about 3" below the surface of the water, it will not 'suck air' very well at all.
One issue with venturi skimmers is their performance is dependent upon the depth of the water in the sump. Each pump\skimmer combination has a 'sweet spot' that works the best. You really have four options. First, you can live with it, or put the skimmer back where it was. Secondly, you can try a bigger pump, which may or may not work. Third, you can connect an air pump to the air line and force air in. Finally, you could get a better skimmer. There are several good ones out there. The linked page I gave you earlier has links to several articles on different skimmers.>
Thank you,
<My pleasure>
Mark
<MikeV>

Re: Protein Skimmer Help: Skimmer adjustment After moving from HOB to Sump 10/25/2009
Hi again WWM crew,
<Hi Mark.>
Your advice about my protein skimmer worked last time! I needed to raise the skimmer up toward the water line so it can suck in more air. Well anyway, I bought a new protein skimmer online because it was cheap and I wanted two skimmers for more filtration. I got it on eBay for $50 and well...it looks cheap..
<Insert obligatory statement on getting what you pay for here.>
This new skimmer is set HOB, the other (old one) is in the sump. This new one is giving me trouble because I can not adjust it properly so the bubbles reach the top and no matter how much air I let in, or not, I
always get micro air bubbles out of the return..and I was told this is not good for the corals.
<It isn't, but a new skimmer can take a few days to break in. or you can route the discharge of the skimmer through some sort of bubble trap.>
The new skimmer is designed just like a SeaClone....any suggestions??
<Without knowing what kind of skimmer it is, it will be hard to give more than generalized advice. - a bigger pump, perhaps an air pump to force more air,
<Have a read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seacloneskimfaqs.htm >
Thank you!
<My pleasure, >
Mark
<MikeV>

Vacation Nightmare 8/24/09
Hello Crew! Hope all is well.
<All is well here.>
I just returned from a wonderful vacation in Alaska where I was lucky enough to closely observe humpbacks and orcas.
<Sounds great.>
However, upon my return, I learned that my skimmer had overflowed onto my MH ballast causing it to "fry" (3 fire engines responded). There was also water damage to the floor and ceiling in the finished basement below. The tank's heater also shorted out.
<Yikes, a guess a real nightmare for sure. You don't live on Elm street by chance, do you?>
My system is a 46 bowfront with a BTA hosting 2 clowns, a Coral Beauty, a damsel, cc starfish and Pencil Urchin that have been living in harmony for over one year. It also has a 4 in. DSB and 60 lbs.+ live rock. Luckily everyone survived. My daughter was caring for the tank but must have forgotten about the skimmer (Bak Pak 2). The skimmer also overflowed earlier this year when I was unexpectedly hospitalized. Can I safely turn off the skimmer next time I am away from home without risk to the tank? I have no other equipment due to space issues, just keep Chaeto in return chamber of skimmer.
<Yes, you should be fine doing this on a temporary basis.>
Thanks for all of your help.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Karen
Re Vacation Nightmare 8/25/09
Thanks. You are all so dedicated and inspirational.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Orange Skimmate 05/21/09
Hello people.
<Hello Jason.>
I have a Euro-Reef in sump skimmer that works well as expected. I usually get the usual dark green tea colored skimmate but the last few days it has been an orange tang color, as in the drink, not the fish.
<Good description>
I'm not sure why this is.  The food for the fish has been primarily Spirulina. But I have from time to time given a bit of Cyclop-eeze food for the corals, which is orange. If this is what is causing the orange skimmate does this also mean I am using too much? Or does the color of the skimmate always indicate the color of the food?
<As long as most of the food is being consumed and you are not having nutrient problems in the tank, your feeding is likely fine. Some foods can tint the color of skimmate, especially if there is coloring added to the food.  However the only time I have heard of truly bright orange skimmate has been following the use of flatworm medication, have you used anything of the sort recently?>
Thanks for your ongoing help.
Jason
<Your welcome, and do experiment a little with changes of the food to determine if it is in fact from a particular item.
Josh Solomon>

Protein Skimmer Question, op.  3/19/09
Hi crew,
<Hello Marc>
I have a question regarding my protein skimmer. I've had a Remora Pro running on my 75 gallon for about 15 months now. It was giving me about a cup of dark skim-mate every week. I gave it a vinegar bath about two months ago and about a month ago, I added an Emperor 400, that I'm only running charcoal out of. Since I've put that on, I've had no skim-mate.
I'm wondering, if because of frequent water changes, and a relatively low bio-load, can I get away without using the Remora if I do frequent maintenance on the Emperor (clean the housing bi-weekly, even though I'm not running filter pads, it still collects debris on the bottom of the housing)? And how about if I replace it with a hang-on refugium, I was planning on replacing the Emperor with one anyway, now I'm considering
replacing the Remora. Mainly because it makes so much noise, and is in the bedroom. Also, after every water change, it produces substantial amount of bubbles in the tank.
<Do you shut the skimmer off during water changes?>
My tank has 80lbs of live rock, two Hydor stage 4 powerheads and I do weekly 15 gallon water changes. For livestock I have a Yellow Tang, a Chalk Bass, a Royal Gramma, a Lawnmower Blenny, a Lyretail Anthias, three Green Chromis,
<I wouldn't call that a "relatively low bio-load".>
various snails and hermit crabs, Mushrooms, a Torch and hammer coral. My specific gravity is a little high ( 1.026), calcium 400, dKH 11, temp. 76, nitrates 0 and ph 8.1.
Any advise on how to proceed, or tips on how to quiet the skimmer would be greatly appreciated.
<Marc, if it were me, I'd use the skimmer along with a HOB refugium. The Emperor could be used periodically to polish the water and remove nutrients the skimmer cannot remove. Once seeded with pods, the refugium will also provide a source of nutritional food. The noise level would not be a problem in my bedroom, the decibel level of my wife's snoring would drown out any skimmer noise. Do consider wearing foam ear plugs. And yes, you could get away without the skimmer if it affects your sleep and providing your bio-load (fish) is not increased. And if you should do this, I would use Chemi Pure instead of the activated carbon, will be much more effective for you in your situation.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Marc

Re Protein Skimmer Question 3/20/09
Thanks again,
<You're welcome.>
I do turn off everything when I do a water change, should I not?
<Yes, is a good idea to turn off.>
Also, I have been considering purchasing the Remora overflow box, but have heard mixed reviews. Do you have any experience with this product?
<No experience with the overflow box itself, but I've read negative comments about them in customer reviews at the Premium Aquatics web site.
See here.
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Co
de=AQUAC-RSSMJ&Category_Code=AquaC
If you decide to order one, make sure you get the model for your pump as they do make three different styles geared to specific pumps. James (Salty Dog)>
Marc

EuroReef Modification and the best way to break up an old tank 2/23/09
Hello WWM folks,
<Chris.>
I am interested in modifying my EuroReef skimmer for an auto waste collection area. Do you know of an established method of making this modification to the skimmer?
<Basically just drilling, then tapping/threading the cup for a hose barb.>
It's an older CS series rated for a 135gal tank with a Sedra 5000.
I searched the website, but it doesn't appear that anyone may have attempted this before, although it would seem like an easy mod.
<It is easy, $5-10 in tooling and it is done.>
In addition, I have an old 125 gal glass tank with a broken bottom, that I am looking to break up and take to the curb to be hauled off. I would prefer to recycle if I can. Do you know of a good way to do this? I'm not looking to shatter the glass, and have a nasty cleanup. Any advice would be appreciated.
<I would call whatever municipality you live in to see if there is some sort of bulk pickup day or where you can drop the tank off for recycling.
Otherwise, and hammer and a broom my friend!><<Thick Levis, long-sleeve shirt and jacket, eye-glass protection... and cardboard around/between you/hammer... and the tank. RMF>>
Again, thanks for your help.
<Welcome, Scott V.>
Best Regards,
Chris

Aeration And Filtration Question 2/10/09
Problem With Leaking Skimmer
Hi,
<Hello Glenn>
I appreciate your time. I have a 55 gallon aquarium with an Emperor 400 hob filter . I also have a hob needle wheel skimmer . It was skimming great but the pump seems to be acting up . I had been trying to get it to run continuously & got the fish shop I had purchased it from to give me another impeller. It still cuts off.
<What exactly do you mean, "cuts off"?>
Anyhow I noticed that it was making a mess behind my aquarium. Lots of splashing & loose water was on the back
wall & on the floor. What I want to know is I really don't need to get anymore fish. Is my HOB Emperor 400 enough filtration & aeration for 3 green chromis & a long-nosed Hawkfish.
<Should be, the bio wheel should take care of the nitrogen cycle.>
Right now with this economy I really don't want to put much money in my aquarium & I'm concerned about the
water that was behind it . I have a plastic runner below the aquarium so its hard to now how much water has been splashing or seeping out. I am bothered by it though so I don't know if I really want to run it even if I get the pump
working. Any advice would be appreciated.
<You need to pinpoint where the water leak is coming from. Without seeing it, I cannot offer too much help here. You do not mention the brand name of the skimmer, so I can not even visualize where the problem may lie in that regard. Have you check "O" rings, if any, and hose connections if present outside the tank, and possibly a crack in the
skimmer body?
Is the collection cup seal leaking/overflowing?>
Thank You,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Glenn

Re: Aeration And Filter Question 2/11/09
Problem With Leaking Skimmer
When I say the pump is cutting off , It will run for about two minutes & shut off entirely . After about ten minutes it will start running again & couple minutes later shut off entirely again . The pet shop tested it & thought the impeller was bad . They exchanged impellers with one they had & had me try it at home . It didn't work or help .
<If the impeller assembly was bad you would likely hear noise.>
If I were a betting man I would say it probably has an electric short but I could be wrong.
<I believe you won the bet here. I'm thinking the winding in the pump may be shorted causing a thermal trip to activate or the winding expands slightly from the resulting heat and loss of electrical contact occurs and once the pump cools, restart occurs.>
I mean it just stops working entirely & then out of the blue starts pumping again . As far as the leak I really can't fully investigate without getting the skimmer to run longer than two or so minutes at a time . There was a lot of calcium & streaks on the back wall.
<And your wife does not like the mural?>
But if I get enough filtration & aeration from an Emperor 400 hob I won't sweat it.
<Should have no problems here.>
I just won't run my skimmer. I have an Aqua Euro USA HOB needle wheel skimmer . The pump would push water up into a chamber with a collection cup . Bubbles would go up toward the cup & the water would flow sideways into another chamber with a plastic pipe which lead the water back into the aquarium.
<Have you checked the warranty on the skimmer? Your LFS may replace the pump, or contact
Aqua Euro USA directly. They may be able to assist you in getting your pump replaced at no or minimal cost.>
Thanks for your time James .
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

AquaC Remora Skimmer, op.   02/06/09
Good afternoon all,
<Hello Matt. Minh at your service.>
I have a quick question for you. I have had my AquaC Remora skimmer on my 55gal tank for about a year now and for some reason it just does not want to work correctly. I have about 50lbs of live rock, two common clownfish,
and a couple mushroom corals. I do have a slight aiptasia problem that I am trying to correct. The only chemical I have used in the tank was about 6 - 8 months ago to get rid of my red slime algae. Since then I have obviously done numerous water changes. Now to the problem with the skimmer. I cannot leave it on when I am not there because it fills up with water in about 10 minutes constantly.
<Have you made any changes to the skimmer? Is it still using the factory pump? Are you using the pre-skimmer box?>
I have the cup set up as high as possible as well and have also played around with the height of the white screw.
<These are the actions I would have suggested as well.>
I am at a loss as to what I can do about this. it basically started happening when I added the red slime remover, but that was 6 - 8 months ago so I cannot imagine that this is still the problem.
Oh yeah, I also use my own RO/DI water and it reads 0ppm. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
<Here are some more suggestions that you can try to remedy the problem.
First, give the entire skimmer a thorough cleaning in warm freshwater to remove any chemicals that could possibly still remain on the reaction chamber. Second, run a small amount of granular activated carbon in your display tank to remove any chemicals that could interfere with the protein skimming process. Lastly, if the two aforementioned suggestions do not work, try raising the entire skimmer assembly an inch or two higher.>
Thanks
Matt
<You're welcome. Cheers, Minh Huynh.>

AquaC EV-120 vs. Tap Water Conditioner - Round 1 1/23/09
Hi All,
<Thomas.>
I am just looking for a quick suggestion from you, if you would be so kind.
<Sure.>
My setup is a 135 gal mixed reef, mainly softies, some fish, and a 40 gal sump/refugium.
I have a brand new EV-120 skimmer, and I've always used Tetra Aqua AquaSafe Tap Water conditioner with BioExtract to condition my 5 gal of make up water I add every 3 days or so. Apparently, this water conditioner causes the EV series skimmers to foam like crazy.
I would really appreciate it if you could suggest for me:
1. The best method for removing the conditioner that currently remains in the tank.
<Carbon or just time.>
2. A quality product for conditioning my make up water that won't cause the skimmer to foam like crazy.
<I personally always used Kordon AmQuel in my pre RO days. See:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/treath2o.htm for even cheaper/better options.>
Thank you very much for your expertise and time.
Thomas Bolton
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: AquaC EV-120 vs. Tap Water Conditioner- Round 2    2/2/09
Thank you!
<Happy to help.>
I just wanted to follow up to let you know that I have switched to AmQuel+ and have been able to slowly increase
the output of the pump going to the skimmer as the days pass and the amount of BioExtract in the water disappears.
<Great! Many of these bio mumbo jumbo concoctions are great for making a skimmer go nuts!>
The EV-120 skimmer is pretty awesome, and I would recommend it to anyone.
:)
<Definitely.>
Thanks for your help!
Thomas Bolton
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Protein skimmers/Balancing pump flows 1/20/09
Hello. I just discovered your site and what a site it is. I've been on it all afternoon reading readers questions, suggestions, and more importantly your suggestions. I definitely learned a lot. Thank you.
<Happy you found us!>
I concentrated my reading in the area of protein skimmers. Yes the dreaded protein skimmer. I've had mine running for about 5 1/2 years now and it never seemed to run correctly for more than a few days at a time. Because of this, I'm on the verge of just giving up on a hobby that I used to long for.
<Don’t lose heart, you can figure this out.>
It really is frustrating. I love reading, researching, and seeing all the fish and inverts that are a part of the hobby, but when I think of that skimmer I just want to quit. Maybe you can help me.
A little about my set up. It's a 150 gallon salt water glass aquarium. My fish consist of; 2 Scats, 2 Yellow Tailed Damsels, 1 Rabbit Fish, 1 Light Blue Powder Tang, 1 Humu Trigger, 1 Flame Hawk Fish, 1 Maroon Clown, 1 Coral Beauty Dwarf Angel, and 1 Flame Dwarf Angel for a total of 11 fish. There is no live rock, just "dead" type if you will and about 120 pounds of Florida crushed coral, (approx. 2.5 inches), for a substrate. The tank it self is a "reef ready" type with two built in overflow boxes in each rear corner skimming the water off of the top down into a perforated pipe wrapped with a foam filter. The water from both of these comes together in the cabinet under the tank via a "t" then drains into a ten gallon glass rectangle tank used as a sump. The sump houses my Red Sea Berlin Turbo Skimmer with associated pump that came with it; (both are junk). From there the outputs of the skimmer run at a slight downward angle, (as per the set up directions), into the top of a Tidepool 2 Wet Dry filter. In the sump of the wet dry is the heater. A Quiet One pump is plumbed through the bulk head of the filter so it is outside of the sump, runs through a check valve, then up to the outputs back into the tank.
I could never get the skimmer pump and filter pump to operate in unison for more than a week or so.
<And it will never happen. Balancing flow between pumps can happen for a period of time, but one will always change.>
Either the skimmer sump would run dry and suck air into the pump or the wet/dry filter would run dry and it would suck air into the pump. I do have a ball valve after the quiet one pump and before the check valve. I use it to help regulate the water flow. However this is usually approximately 90% closed. If I open it more, the wet/dry would cavitate-if I were to close it a bit more, the skimmer sump would cavitate. If this isn't enough, the skimmer never seemed to operate to it's advertised potential. It would collect a very watery solution which much would just drip from the drain in the collection cup back into the skimmer sump.
As I was reading on your site, a few things did stand out in my mind. One was the fact that an individual said they had their overflow boxes filled with bio balls. Interesting I thought. Inside of the wet/dry the only bio-filtration I have is what ever the bio-wheel is contributing. Should I fill these boxes with some type of bio media and if so what type.
<Doubtful, the BioWheels are fairly effective at what they do. What do your water tests tell you?>
Also I noticed that in the sump where the skimmer is you recommend that there be a weir of some sort boxing in the skimmer from the rest of the sump. How is this done?
<A simple baffle, see here later today (the link needs some love first) on how to do this cheap and easy: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/baffles.htm.>
Should I keep the skimmer in its own sump, or am I going overboard?
<You can, but a few things need changing, this is the source of your trouble here.>
How do I get both pumps synchronized and working together at the proper flow rates?
<These separate vessels need to be linked with some piping below the water line on the lowest of the two. Balancing pump flows will never happen, you need to allow the level in the tanks to move back and forth. This does mean you will need one larger sump or you will have to drill the ten gallon and the tidepool. See here for drilling the glass: http://reefercentral.com/Videos.html.>
Finally, I've had an outbreak of marine ick two time since my tank has been operating which is 5 1/2 years. What's your take on ultra violate sterilizers?
<Can be useful, but unnecessary in an otherwise healthy system IMO.>
I don't want to give up on this wonderful hobby.
<Please don’t!>
When my tank is working well and clean it's absolutely beautiful!
<Hmmm, perhaps ask yourself what is done different when the tank is like this?>
I hope you have the time to read this all and write back. Thank you in advance for any advice you can render.
Sincerely Ted Pergolizzi
<Welcome, Scott V.>
P.S.- Live rock or not? It's beautiful, but I'm afraid of losing it all if I need to medicate.
<Yes live rock all the way! If you go this route do be sure to read about curing the rock first. As for medicating, this really needs to be done in a quarantine tank to treat the fish properly and not crash your system. A few more links:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i3/Live_Rock/live_rock.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quaranti.htm

Elevated Skimmer. No, elevated higher than that! 1/4/08
Hi there, I am plumbing my Precision Marine Skimmer (venturi style) into my sump. I would like to sit the skimmer on a table next to my tank (which is about 28� above the bottom of the sump), as there is not enough room under the tank in the stand or in the sump. I will be using a Mag 9.5 and will have approx 2� of rise restricted by 1 - 90 elbow and two unions and a ¾ ball valve with all ¾ inch flexible PVC.
<This is the recommended pump for this skimmer, but with the head height you will add I would step this up to the next larger Mag to ensure the skimmer operates properly.>
The return from the skimmer is 1� PVC with a 1� gate valve. I know the gate valve will narrow the inside
diameter some here. Can you advise me… will this work?
<It will, but for the trouble an insurance I would go ahead and step this up to 1.5" line after the valve.
The 1" valve will flow more than the typical 1" gravity line due to the pressure from the water column inside
the skimmer. Stepping up the size of the drain line will ensure this can keep up too.>
I know there are issues with a skimmer being too low in relation to the water level… but could not find anything on WWM with the skimmer sitting at an elevation comparable to this.
<It does diminish the flow available from the pump, hence the recommendation above.>
I am sure it is covered somewhere on the site. There is an awesome volume of info here. Thank all of you for that! This site is my primary resource tool for all things aquatic. Scott
<Good the hear, happy to help! Scott V.>

Salinity Stability in a Reef Tank ~ 12/30/08
Hi There,
<<Hello>>
I am wondering the importance of absolute salinity stability. My conductivity can vary from 50 to 53 (using Neptune controller) due to various factors from inputting more Kalkwasser than is evaporating, skimmer overproduction, water changes, etc. I am working towards stabilizing this # but I am wondering if I should worry and care to try to stabilize this?
<<A good question… Depending on a coral’s origin many do experience such fluctuations in the wild, seemingly without harm. I’ve heard tell of Xeniids growing on freshwater waste pipes. And corals living in lagoons often experience wide fluctuations in salinity due to the tides and the effects of evaporation and rainfall. But as far as captive care goes and the induced stresses re, it is likely best to keep such fluctuations to a minimum in the aquarium. To put your specific situation in better perspective and to maybe make it more understandable to a wider audience, the Conductivity readings of 50 to 53 (mS/cm) equate to readings of about 33 to35 ppt for Salinity and 1,024 to 1.026 for Specific Gravity (depending on exact water temperature and which conversion chart/calculator you use). Though I prefer to see reef tanks stabilized more towards the upper end of this scale, I think these readings/fluctuations are acceptable>>
Speaking of skimmer overproduction, when I do a water change for several hours after my skimmer produces a lot of wet skim (almost water)
<<Many systems experience just the opposite (a loss of skimmate production)… You may be stirring up detritus and releasing colloidal compounds that increase the foam production>>
and my ORP drops by 75-100.
<<This would also seem to support my theory>>
As always thanks for all of the info.
<<Quite welcome>>
Best,
Bryan
<<Regards, EricR>>

Skimmer help, op., Vertex     12/25/08
<Hello Jack. Minh at your service>
I've had my Vertex IN 250 skimmer running for 4 day now on my 150 gal.
Right now I have a light bioload with only 4 small fish, 1 small coral, some hermits and snails. I seem to be having trouble getting a consistent skimmate out of it. Its not pulling out anything really dark or nasty yet, just some lighter colored foam. Then every once in a while it will overflow into the cup and I have to empty water out of it. Do I need to keep the foam head set a little lower and just let it alone for a few days?
<This is the course of action I would suggest.>
Does it take a while to break in or am I doing something wrong? Skimmer is in my 55 gal sump in 8 inches of water. This is my first skimmer so I'm not really sure what to expect from it or how to fine tune the adjustment. Lots of ?'s here but I'd appreciate any feedback....
<If you are getting foam in your skimmer's collection cup, then it appears that your set up and installation of the skimmer is correct. It will take some time for the skimmer to break-in fully and start to collect consistent skimmate.>
Thanks!
<You're welcome and happy holidays, Minh.>

Yet Another Skimmer Question (inefficient design?) � 12/23/08
Hi....
<<Hello Gretchen>>
My tank was set up 3 months ago, fish weren't added until 2 weeks ago, live rocks are over 2 years old,
<<Hmm, you might want to consider swapping out some of the rock for new… For the benefit of renewed alkaline/bio-mineral content, and a fresh injection of beneficial biota>>
everything else just purchased (used and new):
- 45g Tall
- live rocks and live sand
- 20 gallon sump under the tank - separated into 3 sections: intake on the left which holds a Red Sea Berlin Classic skimmer, then a triple baffle bubble trap, return section, and lastly, the refugium, separated from the return area with a baffle w/ teeth on top for water to pour through...the fuge is receiving 25% water from the intake and one of the outlets for the skimmer is pouring into the fuge.
<<Very good>>
- Skimmer is powered by a Rio 2500, one outlet is pouring into its own compartment (intake area), and the 2nd is routed to the fuge, using pvc for both outlets.
- Lighting is just enough for non-coral life (tank to be a FOWLR tank) -- 1
- 40 watt actinic and 1 regular white fluorescent to offset the blue)
- currently housing just around 10 various hermits, and around 10 various snails, and 2 false Perculas.
- At first, levels were: ammonia & nitrites 0ppm, pH 8.2-8.4, but nitrates were 160+ ppm.
<<Yikes!>>
I fixed this by using ro/di water and making a 75% change (this was before I had inhabitants!).
<<Ahh…>>
Now, I'm constantly at ammonia & nitrites 0ppm, pH 8.2-8.4, and nitrates between 5-20ppm.
<<Okay>>
I've done so much searching for specifically my brand of skimmer (and no doubt you guys all have your opinions on it).
<<Hee-hee! Indeed this is true!>>
I got it used, and the pump is brand new. It works perfectly...I *think*....
<<You are in the best position to know>>
I'm getting wonderful bubble action (after figuring out that the baffle needed to be in the inner tube! Prior to this I was getting the cyclone, and not a lot of bubbles)...the bubbles are filling up the inner tube, and pouring over halfway down the middle area, but not passing the skirt. I've Googled around like mad for 2 months and am still confused.
<<Mmm, you may be running *too dry*, but with this model skimmer getting it set is not always easy. I've used this model skimmer before myself, as well a seen it used by others, and I always found it to be a real pain to get and keep adjusted. One thing I did fine that seemed to help was to oversize the pump. I always found that the venturi/skimmer design worked better with the bigger pump. So… You may want to consider trying a RIO 3100 with this skimmer and see if it performs any better>>
When I fixed the bubble issue, I thought it was working...I was getting dry foam intermittently, but it never gushed over.
<<This is typical with this skimmer>>
The neck and lid were thick with sludge. That lasted a week...it stopped foaming as much, so I cleaned the neck off with just tap and ro/di yesterday.
<<Good… The skimmer should be cleaned every few days to keep it working (as well as it will/does, anyway)>>
And now, I don't see any foam. I figured it was because it needs to re-prime itself, and I had just done a water change.
<<Maybe… But it also probably needs a new round of *fiddling with it* to get it going again>>
I'd like to understand, how the foaming action starts to build up and overflow...will it only overflow if there's enough dirty particles attached to them?
<<Simply put, yes… The *dirty* foam is a result of the attraction of hydrophobic organic molecules to the air/water interface of the bubbles. It *is* possible for an aquarist's system water to be clean enough to not allow the expected skimming action. This may be the case here, but I doubt it. Though the large swing in your Nitrate readings may well indicate a like swing in skimmate production>>
I've got zillions of bubbles in the membrane just bouncing around...will they stay in there until there's enough particles to make them work their way up the neck?
<<They won't *stay* (the bubbles will eventually rise and burst), but your skimmer's venturi should be injecting a constant stream of bubbles so in essence, yes, there will be bubbles present when organics become present>>
Or should I increase the pressure somehow to raise the water level, so it is higher up the neck?
<<You can do this… A skimmer requires the correct combination of water flow vs. air injection/bubbles. Better skimmers, in my experience, make finding and holding these settings easier… And also seem to work better over a wider range of water/air combinations. Readjusting this skimmer is likely what is needed here (remember the *fiddly* comments I made about this skimmer). And then checking/re-checking to make further adjustment as necessary>>
It seems the gunky bubbles barely overflowed, but rather, stuck to the neck. In which case, it is working to get stuff out...but does it sound like its working as well as it should?
<<In a word… No… The skimmer needs to be adjusted to overflow skimmate in to the skimmer cup. Just how wet or dry to make the foam is a matter of debate, but you should at least be making *some* skimmate>>
Is it right for me to assume that since I don't have a lot of bioload that this may be why I'm not getting the overflow of dry foam that a lot of other people I've spoken to?
<<This is a possibility, yes. Though I would simply adjust the skimmer to produce a wetter foam (best to try to remove what dissolved organics you can)>>
I just want to be sure that I can continue to stick with this skimmer, because a lot of people who've gotten it to work really love it.
<<Then give it some more time and experiment with the skimmer settings a bit>>
They just can't explain to me why mine isn't overflowing with dry foam like theirs.
<<It may be a matter of adjustment as indicated… Or it may be a matter of inefficient design, as also indicated. This model skimmer seems to vary in efficacy from unit to unit, but overall is a modest/marginal performer in my experience>>
Everything else *seems* like it's working (like I said...lots and lots of micro-bubbles inside-- can't even see through the acrylic), and I'm not ready to trade this in for a more expensive one (we will be upgrading to a 125g next year, and want to save for that; this 45g is our first "experimental" tank)
Thanks!
Gretchen
<<Happy to share. EricR>>

Re: Yet Another Skimmer Question (inefficient design?) � 12/23/08
ATTN: Eric R...
<<Hiya Gretchen!>>
Thanks for all the tips!!
<<Quite welcome>>
I guess I will stick it out with the skimmer and its adjustments since I will be upgrading to a 125g sometime next year anyway.
<<Okay… These skimmers can be made to *make do* for a small system such as you have now. But jeez… What a pain they are…>>
Unless I find a good used skimmer, I don't see an immediate reason for me to shell out for a better that might not be big enough for a 125g, especially if I can put up with this one.
<<Okay>>
I'll just be diligent about my water changes.
<<Very good>>
I forgot to mention my refugium uses Miracle Mud, so hopefully that will help keep my tank healthy.
<<Ah yes… A very useful adjunct>>
And since I brought this up, I'm going by information I read that the water entering the refugium shouldn't be too strong so pods can flourish, so the result in my sump is that there is just a little bit of the fuge water entering my return.
<<The *pods* can actually *flourish* under a wide range of flow conditions. But in your case, I would follow the instructions/flow requirements for the Miracle Mud>>
Too bad the pods get crushed after going through the return pump.
<<Ah, not true! Many/most do make it through just fine. And even the ones that don't are still providing benefit/nutrition>>
Next tank design will have the fuge on top of the tank.
<<Cool!>>
As for the live rocks...I am guessing I have 30lbs of rock in there, not enough for my 45g.
<<This too is a matter of debate. I think many hobbyists use *too much* rock thus hindering water movement/swimming space for fishes, and facilitating detritus accumulation>>
Would the older live rock be bad to keep instead of replacing?
<<Mmm, no… Is not bad to keep… Just not as useful/beneficial as swapping out for some *new*>>
Here's the live rock's history: My brother had it for a couple of years, but in the last year, after his tang died off (yes, he kept a tang in a 45g, shame on him!)
<<Hee-hee! You tell'm sister!>>
he just maintained the tank's salinity over the next year until I took over. In that last year he didn't do much water changing, if any, and just kept topping off. I always thought the older the rock the better, since it would have been well established.
<<In the overall scheme of things a mature/established/stable system is best, yes. But swapping out some of the old rock will not jeopardize this and will provide the benefits mentioned in our previous exchange>>
Or is it that old rocks might be excreting bad things?
<<Mmm, no… Not unless bad things were previously introduced/absorbed>>
There wasn't much coralline growth to the rocks to begin with, but I've noticed more coralline now that I've taken over. So given that history, I don't know if the old rocks are any good now. What do you guys think about it?
<<Yes, they are still *good*>>
I am slowly adding more live rock, but haven't removed any old ones.
<<This too is fine as outlined previously re>>>>
And of course, when I upgrade to a 125, I would have wanted to keep my existing rocks and just add.
<<Not a problem>>
I've seen a bunch of your articles/responses to people with "old" live rock, and a couple responses say they were fine, and a couple suggested what you just did, which is to replace.
<<Ah, but not to replace *all*… Merely a few pounds at a time… Every year or so>>
I don't hear many people talking about replacing some of their live rock every couple of years.
<<A good point… On mature systems with lots of coral growth this may well not be practical with causing unwanted damage>>
Again, thanks in advance, and I agree that you guys deserve proper emails (for your readers' sakes, as well!), and hopefully I've remained clear and to the point.
<<You have indeed>>
Happy holidays to the awesome WetWebMedia Crew!
Gretchen
<<And to you in kind my friend. Cheers, Eric Russell>>

Skimmer Query, AquaC EV180 11/13/08
Hi,
<Ranjith.>
I just got a new skimmer yesterday - AquaC EV180.
<Nice skimmer.>
It has been running almost 24 hours and I do not see foam rising into the tower.
<You very well may not for a few days.>
I have set it up as per the manual (at the base of the grey box).  I do not think this is due to a break-in period as my first skimmer (cut off coke bottle) started skimming almost within a couple of hours.
<It is break in.>
I also know that my tank HAS plenty of gunk to take out because even my Azoo skimmer was taking out ¼ cup of dark green liquid with particles in it.
Can the problem be any of the following?
1. The hose connecting the power head to the skimmer intake is 2 feet long and is coiled (no hard bends)
<Little difference.>
2. The pump is underpowered? (I use a 3000 LPH power head)
<On the lower end, but still within recommendations for this skimmer.>
3. Skimmer is the one off faulty piece?
<Doubtful, give it time.>
Also, the dark green output from my previous skimmer is gunk right?
<Yes.>
The walls of the tower would have a thick slime coat each time I cleaned the skimmer.
Tank specs
120gal bow front
4"-5" DSB
80kgs live rock
Inverts: 1 mushroom colony, 2 Zoanthid colonies, 2 Palythoa colonies, 1 moon coral, 1 finger leather, 2 feather dusters, snails.
Fish: 5" Volitans lion, 4" Skunk Clown
Pests: 2" mud crab (not counting legs or claws)
Ps: please could you hit the reply all :-)
Cheers
Ranjith
<Scott V.>

New set up, Overactive Skimmer 11/4/08
Ok, giving this a shot.
<Fire away.>
I really only have one question but a lot of background info to fill you in on. I am absolutely new to reef aquariums although my dad has kept a 55g saltwater tank for over 20 years. I'm trying to set one up from scratch and I'm really trying to do it right (patience is something I'm in surplus of, sometimes to a fault).
<Good>
I have been fortunate enough to have been given a complete set up for free. Forgive me for not knowing any brand names of the equipment I have at the moment. I've been trying to research this as much as I can. . My equipment is as follows: 30g glass tank w/stand; wet/dry trickle filter; protein skimmer; 2-20" 15w mercury lights; one powerhead; 2-3 airstones; 2 heaters; 30-40lbs of once live rock (been in a dry tub for about a month and a half now); siphon tube; water test kit; and whole box of misc. stuff such as food, vitamins, water treatment stuff, etc. I cleaned the tank, set up the filter, hung the skimmer on the sump, filled it with fresh water (just to test the equip.) and got things running, tweaking it here and there to try and quiet my girlfriend... I mean the tank down slightly being that it's in the corner behind the couch and chair. Now on to my question... I noticed that when I start the skimmer up it immediately fills up to the top to the point that it only takes about 45 minutes to fill the cup at the top with what would be considered in a normal situation as very wet skim.
<With fresh water? Skimmers normally don't work in fresh water so you may be headed for trouble when salt water is used.>
When I drain the tank and get ready to start my cycling process with the rock that I have and enough pre-mixed (RO/DI) saltwater provided by my LFS, will my skimmer continue to do this, or will the saltwater act differently?
<Will most likely produce even more skimate, need to figure out how to adjust this equipment.>
Being that I'm relying on the DOM (decayed organic material) on the rock for a cycling agent I anticipate having to empty the cup regularly but I work during the day and really can't afford to have the cup overflowing inside the stand. What do you suggest?
With all the appreciation I can muster,
Jéan Dodes
<Best bet here is to figure out what model of skimmer you have and see how adjustable it is. With most skimmers you can adjust the cup height, air flow, and in some the water level, which all will effect production. Most likely you will just need to tweak one or more of these variables to get your skimmer producing the way you want it too.>
<Chris>

New set up, Overactive Skimmer, Reader Input 11/5/08
Hi Crew,
<Hello>
This is in response to an email posted today on the WWM daily FAQs.  I had a similar problem with my Coralife skimmer. My problem was caused by the wrong dechlorinator added to the water. My skimmer was hyperactive regardless of water level.
<Ah yes, thanks, a common cause that I overlooked. Many additives will cause increased bubble production.>
The "fix" was to further restrict the air coming into the skimmer. I put a small length of tubing with an air stone on the air intake of the skimmer.  This reduced the airflow enough to make the foam controllable. After two days, the decholorinator had "burned off" enough to remove the air stone and resume normal operation.
Regards
Mike
<Thanks for the input.>
<Chris>

Fluctuating Water Level and Skimmer Performance – 10/31/08
Hi :),
<<Hello>>
I was reading through the skimmer FAQ and see a common problem. When the tank has a fluctuating water level it hurts skimmer performance.
<<Yes…and more specifically…fluctuating levels within the “chamber housing the skimmer” effect the water level/pressures within the skimmer itself which can lead to a fluctuating efficiency of the unit>>
Have yet to see a solution to this (sorry if I missed the page with the answer).
<<Really? Simply place the skimmer in a “chamber” within the sump that utilizes baffles to stabilize water levels>>
I have the same problem. Due to the wavemaker the sump level fluctuates 2-3 inches from day and night modes of the wavemaker.
<<I see>>
This can be solved by placing the skimmer in the first chamber which has baffles immediately after it right?
<<If constructed with this in mind, and if the working water height within the sump is below the top of these baffles…yes>>
I guess this has a lot to do with the return pump working with constant output while the fluctuating water levels changing input to the sump collection chamber. Thus the change in water level only in the return chamber.
<<Indeed…and the reason for the baffles>>
Placing the skimmer in the first chamber just before the baffles does not have this problem as it is gravity which is flexible in output :). Am I in the neighborhood of being correct here?
<<I think so…>>
Cheers, Ranjith
<<Regards, EricR>>

Getting the most out of the skimmer/Sump issues 10/27/08
Hello all.
<Jason.>
I have a Euro Reef in-sump skimmer that I need help with.
<Okay.>
My sump, (30 gallon), has three chambers with skimmer on the left, pump in the middle, and 'fuge on the right. All baffled off appropriately but because the water level lowers with evap, the skimmer does not work correctly.
<Indeed a problem.>
I understand there is a way to maintain a constant level in the skimmer chamber but need further instruction as how to do this. I have returns coming into both the skimmer section and the refugium section. Both have valve adjusters.
<The baffle leaving the skimmer chamber should be higher than the level of the water in the pump chamber (and sealed to the bottom!). It should fall, at least a bit, into the pump chamber. This will keep the skimmer chamber level constant, with all the evaporation showing up in the pump chamber. An automated top off will also help/eliminate the problem.>
Thanks in advance for the help and for your amazing service.
Jason
<Welcome, Scott V.>

ViaAqua Skimmer II, op.  10/20/08
Sorry I'm not a good emailer. Here I'll try again.
<Ahh, good.>
Two days ago I purchased a ViaAqua Multiskimmer II from a local pet store. After installing on to my 46 gallon bow front and plugging in as instructed, I had noticed the collection cup soon filled with water and micro bubbles enter back into tank. Troubleshooting said it may be due to high salinity.
<Not unless it is very high, enough to kill your tank.>
I had then removed a couple gallons of saltwater and replaced with distilled to bring the level down which it had.
<Do check your salinity now!>
Can you or you're readers have any other suggestion because there has been no change and now see larger bubbles forming under and around rock.
<Do start with your salinity, if you lowered it too much the bubbles in the tank will tend to be larger. As for the skimmer overflowing, try a lower setting if possible. Otherwise, new skimmers can take a while to break in (although the problem is usually the opposite of yours) and any additives to the tank can cause your issue, foods, vitamins, etc. Scott V.>