Stocking/Selection   7/25/06
Hi WWM Crew
<Howdy>
Sorry for all the questions, but you guys have all the answers, and you guys always reply really fast.
I was wondering what would be a good, exciting, personality, colorful fish to add to my 30 gallon fish only with live rock, right now it only has Ocellaris Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris) and a Fridmani Pseudochromis (Pseudochromis fridmani).
Thanks for your fast reply as always and I promise this is my last question.
<A Watchman Goby/Pistol Shrimp combination is interesting.  Read here.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/shrimpgobies.htm
James (Salty Dog)>

55 to 12 gallon downsizing SW system   7/25/06
Hello,
  I have problem here. I am moving and need to down size from my 55gal to a 12 gal.
  I currently have in my 55gal 65lb LR,3" LS, clean up crew of hermits, Cerith, Nassarius snails spelling?) <fixed>, Astrea snails, turbo, 2 emerald crabs, 1 brittle star.
   2 BTA large and medium, frog spawn with sexy shrimp hosting it, mushrooms, maxima clam, 2 leathers not sure what kind given to me from reef club., many rocks of zoas, button polyps, colt, pumping Xenia, pair false percs, mandarin, fire fish, watchman goby, pistol shrimp. I will be able to any amount of what ever I listed to put in the nano. I would like to stock the nano with the right amount of livestock, clean crew, ect....
<No such word... Etc... short for "et cetera res", Lingua Latina for "and other things">
  The nano is a stock 12 gal JBJ dx 2005 and will have 2x24w 50/50, 1 24w day/day for lighting plus fan no modifications. a hang on back Prizm skimmer if it will fit not to sure about the skimmer. I think the tank has a surface skimmer and carbon wet/dry filter and stuff. Whatever I can fit in the Nano would be great but I am not sure what and how much to put in it. LR, LS corals, fish that would be fine under 72w of light in a 12g nano.
  Thanks for all your help and looking forward to hearing from you.
  Thanks again,
  Wes
<No clam, no anemones, no mandarin, likely no watchman goby or firefish... the soft corals will likely have to be fragged with most of the biomass given away... I'd leave out Zoanthids period... Not re-place the Crabs or serpentstar... I'd use as much of the gear listed as you can fit around this 12... Bob Fenner>

Questions on nano tank setup/inhabitants  7/23/06
Good afternoon WWM Crew!  I'd like to take this opportunity to thank you for all of your continued support.  I don't know if I would have had the courage to finally "take the plunge" & start my first marine aquarium if it weren't for your valuable website.  I have been researching & reading off & on about reef-keeping for several years & have found this website & the conscientious aquarist such a help.  I have several issues that I'd like your advice on & hope you don't mind the long e-mail.  
<Not at all>
First off I'll tell you a little about my setup.  I have a 12 gal JBJ nano cube dx (I know you are cringing but because of space restraints this was my only option....
<Can be made to work...>
me, my husband, and two babies under age 2 in an 800 sq ft house.  Space is at a premium.)  set up 7 mo.s now.  I have the back three compartments set up as follows:  #1- Chemi pure, carbon, small sponge that is rinsed weekly, and MJ 600 that has tubing aimed over the back wall and down towards the bottom to help w/ flow.  #2- 1/3 full of live rock rubble, Chaeto & light. #3- another MJ 600 powerhead, Visitherm heater & temp probe.  My sg is 1.025, temp a steady 78 degrees, ph 8.2, ammonia- 0, nitrates- 0, nitrites- 0.  I have about 14 lbs live rock, lots of encrusting coralline, Chaeto, red Gracilaria, and unfortunately an ongoing battle w/ hair algae, sigh.  I let the tank cycle 6 weeks before slowwwwwwly adding cleanup crew, then livestock.  This was very hard (self control- wise)!
<Heeee!>
  Inhabitants include 1 ocellaris clown, 1 skunk cleaner shrimp, 3 dwarf blue leg hermits, 5 Nassarius, 2 Astrea, 3 margaritas, 1 small colony of zoas, 1 small colony of pulsing xenia, an ever dwindling population of pods and two new additions:  a toadstool leather & a blenny (Ecsenius bimaculatus).  I do weekly 10% water changes and once a month a 25% water change using reef crystals & distilled water.
First question is regarding the toadstool leather.  It was quarantined for 1 week before adding.  Within an hour of putting in the tank, she had all her tentacles out & was looking happy.  Her base was nice and straight and columnar- about 3" in diameter & she stands about 8" tall.  Now, a week and a half later, her base is hourglass shaped.  She still looks healthy, but midway up her stalk, it curves inward & is about   1 ½" in diameter, with the top & bottom of the stalk still 3" in diameter.  Is this something I should be concerned about?  
<Mmm, not necessarily... a "natural" reaction to being moved...>
I removed a small sponge that was growing up against her stalk while she was in quarantine (didn't know if it could have been exposed to the air).  This didn't seem to affect her at the time.  Also, I've noticed that the margaritas & Astreas occasionally crawl up the stalk (about once or twice a day) and the cleaner shrimp and hermit crabs will climb on her also, but less frequently than the snails.  It doesn't seem to really bother her, as her tentacles stay out during their attention.  Is there anything I should do?
<Mmm, keep an eye on your fishes... as good/best "bio-indicators" here... for signs of distress, have a good deal/volume of pre-made water, another unit of Chemipure to switch out if the Toadstool changes the water chemistry too much, too fast in way/s that mal-affect the other livestock>
She is the showpiece of my tank & I've grown quite attached already...would be sad to lose her but I could find a new home for her if you feel she won't thrive in my tank.
<Mmm... will have to "trim", "frag" this soft coral in time...>
Concern #2:  The bimac blenny.  He was in a short quarantine (5 days) because I've read that this is best for blenny's, made even shorter because he didn't seem to eat a thing in quarantine.  Otherwise, he seemed quite happy & healthy spending much of his time perched on his rock.  My first concern is that I have never (in three weeks) seen him eat.  There is plenty of algae in the tank & I also feed a rotation of frozen formula 1, Sweetwater zooplankton, formula 2 flakes, brine shrimp, and small bio blend pellets.  Also, soak food occasionally in vita chem.  I feel like it's a good assortment & there should be something in there he likes.  The clown can be quite aggressive at feeding time, so I've tried putting her fav's at one side of the tank & while she is preoccupied, dropping the formula 2 flakes & bio blend pellets on the other side near the blenny.  I can see his little eyes moving as he watches the food, but he never makes a move towards it.  
<Hopefully is "nibbling" on this and that when you're not watching>
Also haven't seen him grazing on any algae either.  Are they bottom feeders, or do they eat from the water column?
<Actually a good deal of/from both... nibbling filamentous algae types that are attached, and small free-swimming animals in the near-bottom water column... more or less continuously during daylight hours>
Haven't been able to find this info anywhere.
<Have observed Ecsenius blennies for long hours underwater>
Then yesterday evening, noticed him rubbing a little on the rocks- which is normal behavior in a blenny from what I read.
<Also correct>
But he was also occasionally twitching & flashing his tail- if you can understand what I mean.
<Yes... a type of "non-verbal communication"... likely intended for the Clown and you>
But no other signs of crypt that I can tell.  The clown has never had it so I don't think it's in my tank unless the blenny has had it all along & just now showing signs.
<I don't think this is Crypt, or other parasite>
  Should I put the blenny back in quarantine or will this be too much stress?  Anything I can do to entice him to eat?  
<Just what you are doing really>
I haven't seen any signs of aggression from the clown- thought this might be stressing him but have ruled it out.
Next question-  Down the road (maybe in another 6 months or so) if everything is still going smoothly, do you feel it would be okay to add a dwarf feather duster & a Florida Ricordea to this system?
<These choices should go here fine>
After those two additions, my wish list is done- or am I maxed out already?
<Close to it, and more... with growth, asexual reproduction>
I'm aware of the allelopathy issues that can occur but would like to give it a try.  Maybe with the Chemi-pure & carbon & frequent water changes it could work out?
<Yes>
I would appreciate your take on this.
And my very last question...I promise!  What is your opinion of Boyd's vita chem.?
<A good product... I have used this...>
Is this a good product, or am I just feeding my hair algae?
<Only to a small degree... Worth using for the benefits it affords your other livestock IMO>
Thanks in advance for your consideration.  It is much appreciated!!!
-Jaime
<Thank you for writing so well, sharing... Your intelligence, learning and passion for life shine through. Bob Fenner>

Sm SW Mis-stocking, disease issues 7/19/06
Hi guys I’m Ben I live in Manchester England.
<<Hi, I’m Lisa I live in Toronto Canada.>>
I'm fairly new to the marine hobby and am glad I found this site.
I have an aqualantis18 x 18 x18 Aqualantis tank
<<CM or IN?>>
2 fluorescent tubes within the hood (I simply turn these on & off but am looking at getting a proper actinic and halide lighting system to create a dawn and dusk effect)
Aqua One protein skimmer with built in UV + external UV
  Eheim Ecco external canister filter
  Live sand
  Approx 10kg LR
The past week has been a living nightmare.  The tank was stupidly stocked as I instilled too much trust into my LFS not knowing that they know so little or will simply say anything to make a sale.
I had 2 cleaner shrimp, 1 boxing shrimp, 2 common clowns, 1 copperband butterfly (now know this should not have been in there)
<<If the tank is 18” cube, best-case scenario, it is 25-gallons (US); worst case it’s an 18cm cube, and is 1.5 gallons.  Either way, it is a VERY small tank.>>
1 powder blue tang (same need at least 6ft)
<<Oh dear god.  That fish gets larger than most think, and needs huge room.  6 foot tank at least.>>
1 cowfish
<<?? What species?  Could these fish even swim?>>
5 small hermit crabs
I now only have left the cowfish 1 cleaner and the smaller of the 2 clowns.
<<Not surprising, and very heartbreaking, even a little bit of research would have prevented these deaths.>>
I should have carried out much more detailed research earlier and am sure this would have been avoided,  I can only apologize for this.
<<You read my mind.  Just learn from here.>>   
I need to get the cowfish out of there don’t I, as he tank is too small and they release toxins (even though LFS said they didn’t)
<<Yes.  Capable of tanking out entire LARGE systems, all inhabitants, and themselves.>>
I think what happened is the powder blue tang got stressed due to the small nature of my tank thus, white spot ensued thus, stressing out the cowfish thus, releasing toxins thus, wiping out most of my tank!  Would you agree?
<<Um, not exactly, but could be.  Whatever the reason, tank size, tank mates, lack of QT (I’m assuming) are all issues.>>
I have carried out 2 sets of 3-day treatments using 'Oodinex'  on the advice of my LFS
<<Utter garbage.  Discontinue use.>>
Today is the fourth day of the second treatment so I have put the skimmer and UV’s back on and both the cow and clown have now eaten.
However, the clown is remaining quite stationary on the bottom of the tank with folded fins. There is no more sign of white spot which he did have and he has now regained colour.
<<Colour, sure, but he is in a typical ‘about to die’ pose.  Cease treatment immediately.>>
I don’t want to lose any more fish and really need the little fella to pull through,  what should I do?
<<Get the cowfish and clown back to the LFS.  Buy a larger tank, fishless cycle it, research like it’s you’re job, and then consider making informed purchases.>>
Water parameters are:  sg1.0023 ph8.2, nitrite 0, nitrate 20, ammonia 0-0.25 (there appears to be traces of ammonia according to the colour chart however it does not look to be 0.25 in colouration but somewhere between 0 and 0.25)
Pleeeeeeeease help guys?!
<<Lisa.>>

5g for Seahorses, Shrimp and Hermit Crabs   7/18/06
Hi! <Hi there!>
I'm a newcomer to all of this aquarium stuff, but I'm doing all my research before I start buying things. <Very admirable>
I like cleaner shrimp, seahorses and hermit crabs. <Me too!>
Is there anyway I can get a 5 gallon tank to house them all??
<On my, I'm so sorry, absolutely not!>
If so, how many of each and what kinds do you think would be the best?
<You could perhaps keep a cleaner shrimp and a couple of hermit crabs but no fish. The only possibility for seahorses in a 5g would be Dwarf Seahorses and they require daily hatching of baby brine shrimp, which in my opinion is quite time consuming. Dwarf seahorses could not be kept with cleaner shrimp and only a few species of the smaller herbivorous hermit crabs would be appropriate. If you want to keep any of the larger species of seahorses you need minimum of 30 to 40 gallons depending on the species. Have a look at www.syngnathid.org and www.oceanrider.com for more information on seahorses and their appropriate care.>
Also, could I get other fish in there?
<Nope, unfortunately not a 5g>
What type? I basically like all kinds, so whatever works!
What would work would be a bigger tank. You will need at least a minimum of 20g to keep a couple to a few of the smallest marine fish. The bigger the better basically.>
Thanks!!! <Your welcome, Leslie>

NanoCube and Anemone   7/17/06
Hi, Darius Boscarino here. <Hi Darius>
First time writer, long time reader. I recently bought my son a 12 gal dx nano cube. He wants a "Nemo" thanks to that one movie I try to forget about. I'll be doing all the maintenance, but with a clownfish I would like an anemone. I've never done anything with anemones before, but I have read endlessly on your great site about caring for them. So, my questions are, Are any anemones small enough to stay put in a 12 gal that will host an anemone? And, Can too much light be a problem? On nanotuners.com there are custom canopy upgrades that I want to purchase for the tank. Now there are 2 24 watt PCs. They have canopies with 3 24 watt lights and also one with 4. I want the one with 4 to be absolutely sure there is plenty of light. That will be 96 watts for 12 gallons and the tank is only about 12" deep. Which brings me to my next questions. Which canopy
would be suitable? And then what mixture of lighting would be best for the health of the anemone and zooxanthellae? Btw, there will be one clownfish, probably a true or false percula, an anemone, and inverts. Also, the stock pump in the nanocubes is weak, so I upgraded from the 106 gph pump to a 230 gph with a y shaped powerhead for better current adjustment. Your help will be greatly appreciated.
<Either of those clownfish would do very well substituting any of the soft finger type leathers for an anemone….. like a colt coral perhaps.  IMO an anemone would not be suitable for a 12g tank. Just a suggestion… if you are not considering any other fish,  a pair of either one of those clownfish might be more interesting than a single fish.  I would go with the 2 24w pc.s that gives you 4 w/g which would be fine for most of what would be appropriate in that size tank. If you over do the lighting you risk over heating the tank as well as problems with nuisance algae.>
Thank you. Your friend, Darius.
<Your most welcome, Leslie>

Nano Questions ... maint. mostly  07/21/06
Hi crew. Darius Boscarino again.
<And James here again.>
I wrote a few days ago about keeping an anemone in a nanocube. I spend hours on your site every day and with all
this reading I come up with so many questions, then I research them. Then that leads me to even more questions that I tend to forget some of them. So, on to the questions (sorry if they are random):  I understand I'll need a protein skimmer. The Current USA Fission nano skimmer seems to be fine. I think I'll purchase it as soon as my speedy reply. :-) It pumps 84 gal/hr (still 7x/hr) but I already have a 230 gal/hr pump. Too much water movement isn't bad (I don't think :-/) but with the size of the tank and the power
the water comes out of these pumps, I think it could cause some problems.
<Unlikely>
Also, I've read that skimmers remove trace elements. "questions"... Would it be OK to only run the skimmer only at night and turn off the regular pump?
Or vice versa? And what brand calcium supplement should I use?
<Weekly water changes/supplements will replenish lost trace elements. I'd leave the skimmer run 24/7.  Calcium brand is your choice.  I use SeaChem.>
Another question. Since an anemone is out of the question,
<Yes>
I was told a colt coral or a finger leather would act as a host to a false percula.
<I have seen clowns in many different corals.  I had a pair that called an Elegance Coral home.  The clownfish will decide here.>
Reading your site, I found that the colt coral grows fast. Can I get a scientific name of a nice colt coral that won't outgrow my tank for a while?
<Cladiella sp.>
Along the same line. If that coral will be so big, can I still have blue mushrooms on the other side of the tank?
<Colt coral is semi-aggressive, may get away with it.>
Did you want some more questions? That one doesn't count. Umm.... last question I can think of for the night. What calcium and alkalinity tests will give me accurate "numbers" and that tests high enough? Because I noticed a lot of people use the LaMotte test but I
looked into it and it said it tests up to 200 mg/L.
<LaMotte makes several calcium test kits in different test ranges. Salifert and SeaChem give good results with a much lower price tag.>
Thank you for the future success for the animals (soon to be) in my nano cube.
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)
Darius.

Stocking Pterapogon kauderni/Small Tank Aggression - 07/16/06
Hi Viv here,
<<Hello Viv...EricR here>>
This is the first time I have written to you guys <<gals here too!>> but I've had a good look at your site keep up the awesome work!
<<Thanks!  We shall try>>
Anyway I have been running a 20 gallon marine tank (which is my first marine setup) for 8 months now.  I have a Ocellaris Clown and a Six-line Wrasse (who are both doing brilliant), no invertebrates as yet.
<<Mmm, do keep an eye on the six-line.  These get/are very pugnacious (to down-right mean)...will be worsened by the small confines of this tank>>
I think I have around about 9 lbs of live rock in the aquarium.  I regularly check the tanks water condition, salinity, etc.  The water quality is good with no ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate and pH is 8.2.
<<Very good>>
I was wondering if I could add 1 Banggai Cardinal.
<<Speaking purely from the aspect of stocking density, yes...but the presence of the six-line already in the tank concerns me>>
However I now have mixed thoughts as I have read on your site and others that these fish have been known to die within weeks and that they do best in groups and have a picky appetites.  But I have also heard that they are a generally hardy fish and can be kept singly (which is what I hope to do).
<<Mmm yes, differences of opinion/experience.  In your tank, if you decide to add this fish, as single specimen is best.  While generally peaceful toward interspecifics, Pterapogon kauderni can be quite intolerant of conspecifics...again, with this behavior magnified by the confines of a small tank.  As for hardiness, I have found that once acclimated, this fish proves to be quite hardy/aquarium suitable (have had mated pairs breed regularly)...and with a voracious appetite>>
I really would like to have this beautiful fish in my aquarium but I do not want to see one die considering how they are doing in the wild! Would this fish survive in my tank providing I feed it and acclimate it and that the water quality remains high, etc.?
<<Carefully choose a healthy specimen that has survived for a couple weeks/is feeding at the LFS and yes, I think so...but you may have to remove the six-line wrasse>>
Please help it would be greatly appreciated
Thanks Viv
<<Regards, Eric Russell>>

Seahorses, Yellow clown goby and shrimps  7/15/06
Hello,
I've been reading as much as I can at your site and it's been truely informative! I added it to my favourites right away, so congratulations on making a terrific site.
<Thank you>
Anyway, my query is about my new tank which I've had cycling for about two months while researching as much as I can on seahorses and appropriate tankmates and watching the stock in the LFS.
<Ahh, both good techniques to do simultaneously>
It's a 40 litre marine tank standing 15" tall and has crushed seashells in the bottom and a small live rock (about half a kilo). Two tiny sea snails have appeared out of the LR also, as well as small "anemones??"
<Mmm, you may want to do a bit more to identify these... might be problematic down the line with your seahorses, other livestock>
and a little red wormy thing that lives in the LR.
I've read in various resources that yellow clown gobies can be good tankmates for seahorse (which I'm planning on putting in the tank at a later date), so I was planning on getting one in the next week to add to the tank as a first occupant. Do you think this is a good idea? Or should I get the seahorse in and let them settle first?
<Is a good choice... I really like Gobiodon spp.>
One of my LFS advised that a pair of pot-bellied seahorses
<... Hippocampus abdominalis? Mmm, the Gobiodon is a tropical genus... these horses are decidedly coldwater... not compatible environmentally>
would be good to put in the tank but I feel that the tank may be too small for them,
<Agreed also>
and thought that a pair of H. Barbouri would be better occupants. What do you think?
<A better choice for sure>
Also, I was considering getting some marine shrimp that may breed and perhaps offer a live food source for the seahorse and/or yellow clown goby. Would this be a good idea? If it is, what types of shrimps are ideal?
<Mmm, this volume (less than ten gallons) is actually too small for this... Do consider "tying in" a live sump... refugium where such shrimp might be placed... or better, where microcrustaceans can proliferate, add food...>
I know that my tank is small so would you advise that I pick either the seahorse or the goby or would they be small enough to live happily together?
<Both could go here>
I don't want to be a bad "fish mother" so your advice is greatly appreciated.
Many thanks in advance!
Regards,
Melody Powell,
Australia
<Bob Fenner>

SW, what fish to add to my aquarium  - 0713/2006
Hello
< Howdy! >
I've been reading all the FAQs on your wonderful site for the last couple of hours and haven't found one that answered my question. So here it goes. I  
have a FO 29 gallon aquarium currently cycling, I have a power filter and a protein skimmer, no live rock or live sand. I would like to add three or four fish.
< That is a reasonable number. >
But I'm far away from specialty shops and the only local dealer is limited. So my choices are  ocellaris clown, blue damsel, yellow tail  damsel,
domino damsel, four stripped damsel, and a firefish. Well that's all they  have that would fit my tank.
< Although somewhat limited, it does make for fairly hardy additions to the tank. >
I'd like to add as many different kind of fish as possible. I'd be glad to here your ideas on possible combinations.
< I would suggest possibly one of each, with the exception of the firefish. The firefish are wimpy, and cannot handle the stress or aggravation the damsels would bring. If you must have the firefish, possibly two firefish and two ocellaris clowns would do well together, but that reduces the variation you are seeking... >
Thanks  Brian
< Best wishes!
RichardB >

What am I doing so wrong!? Sm. mar. sys. mis-stocked...    7/13/06
To the Wet Web Crew,
<Jon>
I am still just a beginner at this wonderful hobby, and I am a guy who likes things to go right. First a bit of background, I have a small 20 Gal. Long
All Glass Aquarium. For filtration I have a large Penguin 350 Bio wheel, a Duetto in tank filter/power head, and a UGF. This tank is just for Inverts,
but has one Domino Damsel
<Yikes... a real "bully"...>
in there for company/ food source. The tank has been running well for about 6 months or so now and I have even had a few
polyps and things start to grow in there on their own, which I never expected.  The other day my Fiancé
<Ever notice the similarity twixt the words fiancé and finance? How about reef and grief? Heeeeee!>
got me this awesome open florescent green and brown brain coral (not sure the exact type)
<... Yikes, likely a Trachyphyllia. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/trachyphlliidae.htm>
and I decided that I would put it in the Invert tank for now, since everything seem stable in there.
<Too small to be stable with much life in it...>
I went away a few days on a business trip and came back to discover that one of my Emerald crabs had knocked the Brain off its perch and into the sand below! Here is where the problem starts, the brain coral started to bleach, much to my dismay, and there seems to be no way to stop it!  What can I do for it!?
<Read the above link and the files linked above it...>
I have tried to give it more light, and directly feed it, but it keeps receding.  I don't want to let this beautiful specimen die
out.  Is there anything I can do for it?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sincerely,
Jon Diaz
<Read my friend. Bob Fenner>

Small SW systems, stocking, listening, maint.   7/8/06
Hi Crew,
Am I imagining it or are you really getting more emails about small tanks.
<A growing trend...>
I have a 10 gallon and it is now 3 years old. The Crew has really been very helpful especially when I listen to them.
<Heeeee!>
It took me a long time to get to the point of leaving things alone for a while so it can settle in.
<A good, useful trait>
I have a clown goby (2 years), a spotted cardinal (2 years) and a royal Gramma (year and 1/2). A little overcrowded but sometimes it is just too hard to listen to you.
<Q-tips?>
The Gramma is not a good choice in this size tank, he is too bossy but he is very colorful. I have added snails, mushrooms and mini stars during that period.
<Bingo>
The mushrooms really add color being that I have red, green, blue, lavender and purple ones. I have not figured out what makes them split.
<... a multitude of influences... "Stress" (crowding, competition), opportunity (space, food, light...)>
My red split a lot when I first got them but not lately. I have a Rhodactis type that is green and lavender and that one just keeps splitting from its foot. I also have two candy cane and a star polyp. One candy cane came with 3 heads and now has four. The other came with two heads, one regular size and one that looked like it would not make it. One head started growing very large end then finally split into 3 heads. Now the other head seems to be growing larger. I got 6 mini brittle stars and now there are hundreds. You rarely see them in the daytime, but when the lights are out they are all over the place.
There is actually a lot to see after the lights are out.
<Ah, yes... as on a natural reef>
I have a hair algae problem and did what was suggested and things did improve. But I decided to get some help for my 4 virgin Nerite snails. So I got 3 astrea, 3
keyhole limpets and 4 Tegula snails about 3 weeks ago. The glass is now very clean. I have one large rock and one small area of it has been fairly
well cleaned. I actually saw the astrea eating hair algae as if he was sipping spaghetti. But there is plenty to go. But so far I am happy with the results.
<Good>
My main objective was to get the limpets but at this point I do not know which are the better cleaners.  One limpet was on my star
polyp which is about 2x3 inches and all the polyps closed up. The limpet has moved a little and there does not seem to be any damage where it used
to be but I guess the polyps just do not feel safe having that guy crawl on it. I tried to remove the limpet but it was stuck tight.
<Best to slip something underneath... my fave, a single-edge razor blade>
Actually it looks pretty with the polyps closed since it has a bright maroon base and the polyps are just brown. No questions today. Just want people to know
that these small tanks can work and can be very colorful. My maintenance is changing one gallon every week and once in a while I remove algae. I
never clean the sand. I forgot to mention that I also have 4 Nassarius snails. I have a Penguin mini filter and a 65w PC.
<Thanks for sharing. Bob Fenner>

New and researching end aquarium, Stocking a SW system at ludicrous speed   7/7/06
Hello,
I am looking into beginning an aquarium and I want to know if I am trying to go too far with this. I am beginning with a 24 gallon AquaPod tank system. I
am wanting to put in ~ 25 pounds of live rock, ~ 10 pounds of limestone formations, 2 Percula Clownfish (aquacultured),
1 Blue Hippo Tang,
<Mmm, no>
1 Porcupine Puffer,
<No>
1 Mandarin Dragonet (Green),
<Not likely>
1 General Star Fish, 1 Chocolate Chip Star Fis, 1 Rose Bubble Tip Anemone,
<None of these>
1 White Anemone Crab, and ~ 3 Cleaner Shrimp.
<Too many>
I intend to introduce the fish one at a time after the BTA, crab, and shrimp have acclimated. (After cycling until ideal levels
are reached.) Probably introducing as much as a month apart. Am I being too ambitious as a beginner,
<I wouldn't use the term "ambitious"... but this/these will definitely not work>
noting this is what I would like to make the end result, and is this going to be too crowded for this tank?
<Ahh, yes>
My LFS said that there should be no problems
<... I hope/trust they are joking>
but I want the opinion of someone not out for my money. I would greatly appreciate any assistance you could give. I do not
want to make a huge mistake starting out for their sake.
Thanks for your time.
Chris
<Please read re each of these species on WWM... there are groupings of "SubFAQs" files on each "Systems", "Compatibility"... Bob Fenner>

Some Improper Livestock Selection for a 30 Gallon Reef - 06/29/06
Hey there guys & gals,
Just had some questions on stocking.
<<Okey dokey>>
I sent an email previously but it might have been to the wrong address, email problems, etc.
<<Mmm, maybe so.  We do strive to answer EVERY query we receive>>
Anyways, I was planning on setting up a 30 gallon reef tank in the near future.  This would be my first saltwater tank, so I don't want to screw it up.
<<Ah, much adventure...and reading/researching ahead>>
I am getting a 150 watt 20000k halide, as well as 2 65 watt actinic blue compact fluorescents (not 03 blue - is this ok?).
<<Depends...what animals do you plan to keep/niche to replicate?  Best to decide what you want to keep/what environment to create, then buy the lighting to suit>>
I will be ordering ~50 lbs live rock (Fiji) and probably some corals (will there be any shipping problems with these?) like bubble, moon, polyps, etc.
<<Some ship better than others...some "shippers" are better than others.  Visit the reef forums (Reef Central, Reefs.org, etc.) and query the members re reliable online sources>>
My question is, could I get an anemone in this tank, or is it too small of a volume?
<<Would depend on the anemone, and if kept as a "specimen display" only.  But I must express...anemones are not for beginners...please do reconsider>>
I was thinking a sebae, but could go with bubble-tip, or other, by your suggestion.
<<My suggestion is that you wait my friend...until such time as you have amassed the experience needed, and can provide the environment necessary, to keep these amazing and virtually immortal creatures alive and healthy>>
I want for my livestock two perculas, two Banggai cardinals, a cleaner shrimp, cleaner wrasse, ~20 hermits, and possibly a goby, but probably not.  Is this appropriate?
<<Mmm, a few things to mention here...the clownfish will likely "take over" this size tank, making keeping more docile species of fishes difficult...the Banggai Cardinal might be able to hold its own against the clowns but unless you get a mated pair you will be better off only getting one as they are fairly intolerant of conspecifics, which is exacerbated in a small system such as this...the cleaner wrasse will starve to death as they are for the most part obligate feeders of the parasites they pick from the fishes.   You don't have enough fish (not even close, so don't even think about it <grin>) to sustain this creature, and more than the wrasse may suffer as it "pesters" the other fish frantically looking for food as it starves.  Better to acquire a cleaner goby (Genus Gobiosoma) as they are more hardy/will take prepared foods.  Be sure to thoroughly research any/all animals you choose BEFORE you purchase>>
If it is overstocked, I can go without the wrasse.
<<Pass on this fish...regardless>>
Also, is it possible to "over-skim"?
<<Would be very difficult to achieve in my opinion...very little concern re>>
I wanted a skimmer rated for 120 gallons, but can go for one rated at 65 gallons if it is more appropriate.
<<I think either is probably fine, but unless you're planning for an upgrade I would get the smaller skimmer for reasons of price/space/energy consumption>>
Thanks!
Eddy
<<Quite welcome, EricR>>

Re:  Livestock Selection for a 30 Gallon Reef - 06/29/06
OK, thanks.
<<Welcome>>
I guess I'll go with the two perculas and probably a goby or blenny or something.  One last question: how the heck do I get metal halide retrofits to go onto my tank?
<<"Retrofits" are intended for attachment to/modification of an existing hood/fixture.  I expect you'll have to "DIY" a hood/fixture for your 30 gallon tank to utilize the retrofit and keep the MH lamps at a suitable distance above the water>>
I'll skip the anemone and cardinals.  By the way, I do have plenty of experience with FW.
<<I don't doubt you, and the experience will serve you well...but still...much to learn re SW systems>>
Thanks again!
<<Always welcome Eddy.  Regards, EricR>>

I would like help with my first saltwater tank - 24 gallon Nano tank with small refugium  6/29/06
Greetings to all the crew at WetWebMedia!
<And to you>
Let me first apologize for the long e-mail, but also thank you for your expert resource!
<As we say in Zoology, "size bears little relation to function"... no worries re length>
I have read all the books, articles, and forum entries that I could get my hands on; ("The Conscientious Marine Aquarist”, "The New Marine Aquarium”,
"Ultimate Marine Aquariums”, “Reef Aquarium” (volume 3), the three pocket guides “Marine Invertebrates”, “Reef Aquarium Fishes”, “Marine Fishes”,
“Corals”, “Marine Reef Aquarium Handbook” and don’t laugh “Saltwater Aquariums for Dummies”.), as well as talked to the local reputable shops (6) in town.
<Sounds like you're about ready to join us in responding to others queries!>
I am having a JBJ 24 gallon Nano reef tank custom fitted with a CPR Aquafuge (Small  2.5 g w/ Miracle Mud and Chaetomorpha Algae), Maxi-Jet 1200 w/ a
Hydor FLO, Ice Probe Chiller & Controller, and an Aqua Medic Niveaumat Auto Top-Off Pump ( top off with Kalkwasser), along with the regular equipment
and supplies ( Finnex 50 watt Heater, Digital Thermometer, Chemi Pure, Crystal Sea Marine Mix, Coralife Power Center, 10 gallon Quarantine set up,
Salt mixing set up, Fastest Master Test Kit, and Salifert test kits (Iodine, KH/Alk, Magnesium, Oxygen, and Phosphate) .
<Wowzah... about the most expensive set-up per gallon...>
This is going to be set-up on July 8th with CaribSea Aragalive and Marshall Island Live Rock in an Atoll aquascape formation.  The more I read, the more
confusing things get,  It seems that there are differing opinions as to what to stock, how many, and what will get along with what...
<Will become less confusing (though never completely) with time, experience... Just like the government, folks are "trying to sell you somethings", as well as acting out of their own ignorance, experience levels...>
I could really use your input for the deciding factor in what I have decided to stock the tank with, and then some guidance with the timing and order of the additions?
<Okay>
Stock Lists:
Fish - 1 Chrysiptera hemicyanea (the variety similar to the yellow tail, but with yellow along the bottom of the fish; max size 2.5”);  1 Paracheilinus carpenteri;  1 Elacatinus oceanops; and if it is not to much I would also like 1 Nemateleotris decora. (added in that order)
<Mmm... I do wish you had started with a larger volume. All these can go in a cube as you have, but there is going to be more antagonism, negative interaction than I'd like... Place the Damsel last, the Gobiodon with the Dartfish, the Wrasse in-between... a week or few twixt>
Invertebrates - 2 Lysmata amboinensis; and 2 Bispira sp. (Dwarf Colored Feather Duster).
<These can all go in once the system is cycled, stable>
Hermit Crabs & Snails – 2 Dwarf Red Tip Hermit Crabs; 1 Dwarf Blue Leg Hermit Crab (I know they are aggressive, but I would really like to have
one); 3 Super Tongan Nassarius Snails, 3 Bumble Bee Snails, 1 Tongan Fighting Conch, and 6 Nerite Snails.
<No to the Conch... I'd skip the Hermits...>
Corals - (aquacultured) (Okay, this is the hardest category for me.  I do not want many (maybe 3 different species), but I like the coral that moves
in the water.  Most of these are aggressive and I do not know if they will get along with everything else) - 4 Ricordea florida (for color) (2
blue/purple and 2 orange/yellow, placed on the middle of the rock at opposite sides); 1 Briareum sp (the one I like kind of looks like a bunch of deep green clover grass.)
<Keep this isolated... on rock/s that are not contiguous, to prevent it spreading>
The only picture on the internet I found was here: http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=2405 .) I
am planning on putting it on it's own rock in front of the Atoll formation on the right side so it gets the benefit from the water movement;  Here is
the hard one - I would really like a Plerogyra sinuosa, Euphyllia divisa, or Euphyllia ancora.  Would one of those specimens get along with everything
else in this tank?, and if yes, where would be the best placement?
<A Euphylliid would go... Off to one side is best. Place this last>
Timing of additions:
Week 1 to 3 - cycle the tank with lights off;
Week 4 to 9 - cycle the tank with lights on for 6 hours a day;
Week 6 - Start the quarantine tank;
Week 9 - (or as soon as the ammonia & nitrite levels become undetectable) cycle the tank with lights on for 9 hours a day / Add first specimen (Fish,
Invertebrate, or Coral) to quarantine tank.  Should everything go into the quarantine tank first; even snails, hermit crabs, and coral?
<All should...>
Week 10 - Turn lights on 12 hour cycle / Add Herbivore Crabs & Snails to tank / Begin regular maintenance;
Week 12 - Add first specimen, and Carnivore Crabs & Snails to tank / Second specimen to Quarantine Tank;
Week 15 - Add second specimen to tank / Third specimen to Quarantine Tank. (repeat every three weeks, as long as ammonia & nitrite levels remain
undetectable, and other values are within range).
Order of additions:  I am stuck...  What would be the best order of entry for the specimens listed above?
<The invert.s... then the fishes in the order stated>
Water parameters:  These are the parameters that I was planning to shoot for: Temp 76°F, Specific Gravity 1.025 at 60°F, pH 8.2, dKH 8-12, and
Calcium 425-450 ppm, Iodine 0.06 ppm, Magnesium 1,300 ppm,  Oxygen (dissolved) 7 mg/l saturation or higher, and Phosphate 0.05-0.1 ppm.  Will
this be okay with all the specimens above?
<Yes... the calcium would/will be fine closer to 400 ppm>
Does everything look okay?
<Mighty fine>
Do you have any other suggestions?
<Perhaps a dedicated notebook to keep your thoughts, activity, testing recorded>
I cannot thank you enough.  I really want to be responsible and not cause undo harm to any specimen that I choose to put into my tank (okay, so the
blue hermit crab may eat a snail or two).  Once completely stocked and running successfully for at least a year, I do want to move up to a 120
gallon tank.  The expense right now with the little knowledge that I have at the moment did not make sense.
Thank you,
Gretchen Rodriguez
<Thank you for sharing. I strongly suspect (have powerful intuition) that you will be successful, go on to larger, more involved systems. Bob Fenner>

Re: I would like help with my first saltwater tank - 24 gallon Nano tank with small refugium  - 06/30/06
Thank you Bob for all of the valuable input.  I do not want to sound sappy, but this is very much appreciated!  I will leave out the Conch and the Hermits (maybe for the larger tank?)  I have a few follow-up questions, if you would not mind?
<Not at all>
Would it be better to have only three of the fish to lessen the antagonism and negative interaction?
<Yes>
(I also like the Amphiprion ocellaris, but thought it too large for this system; Sphaeramia nematoptera, but heard it had a high mortality rate in transit; Chromis viridis, but thought it better for a larger tank so it could have at least 3-5 together; Amblygobius rainfordi, but thought it would not get along with the Paracheilinus carpenteri in this small system)  The one fish that I would really like to have is the Paracheilinus carpenteri, I was just trying to match up the others with interesting (and easy for a beginner) species.  I am very open to other combination of species if you have any recommendations?  And, if you do the order they would go in?
<I would go with your remaining three fish choices at this point... "Something" else will pop up in short time, am sure>
In respect to the order of additions, you said "The invert.s... then the fishes in the order stated", not to sound stupid, but what about the coral?
<The Euphylliid last, after all fishes and other invertebrates have settled in>
Does it matter if they go in before or after the invertebrates and the fish?  Does it matter which one of the coral species goes first or second?
Thank you again,
Gretchen
<Sorry for the lack of clarity. Bob Fenner>
Thank you Bob for helping to ease the stress of my first saltwater tank and hopefully adding to its success!
Gretchen
<A pleasure. Thank you for sharing your adventure. BobF>

Nano Problems, Way Overstocked 6/27/06
Hello,
<Hi>
I'm an amateur tank owner or "newbie" with a couple of basic questions. <Welcome to the hobby.> I recently (3 months) purchased a 12 gallon nanotank. <Tough way to start, nanos require a lot of work.>  I've added 12 pounds live rock and house one Anenome,  maroon clown, 2 damsels, a hawkfish and a yellow tang I purchased a couple of weeks ago. <Wow, that's a lot of fish, way to many.>  I also had a red lipped blenny that perished after a month of seemingly happy living. Two days ago I had to move the tank and everything has been ok since, water temp 82, proper salinity, etc. Today I notice my tang is active, although seems to want to hang around the top of the tank and has a balance issue. His coloring seems normal and doesn't show any other signs of distress, although I seem to be able to make out his intestinal tract a bit today, maybe some puffiness I hadn't seen before. A few tips that I might be able to try would be helpful, I know most of your questions come from more seasoned owners.
<There is no way that tang can live in a 12 gallon tank even short term.  They get big, and need a lot of space to roam.  Also the maroon clown is one of the meanest fish you could choose.  It will end up tearing up any other fish in there, and also get quite large.  The damsels may also get too big, depends on the species, and most hawks will also outgrow that tank.  Anenomes are really tough as well, and require expert care and stable tanks, which usually mean large tanks.  Sorry to hit you with all this but it seems you've been led into a unsustainable tank, doomed to failure.  Best bet is to return all the fish and the Anenome before a real disaster.  A 12G should have at most 2 small fish, maybe a pair of Ocellaris Clownfish, or a host of other small fish.  I don't mean to be discouraging, but that tank will be some work, even properly stock.  Likely fail soon without removing livestock and chase you from an otherwise enjoyable hobby.>
Thanks,
Leslee
<Chris>

Clarkii/Maroon Clownfish/Breeding  - 06/20/2006
Hi Crew!
<Hello Steve>
I have a 12 gallon tank with live rock, a clarkii clown, maroon clown, and a scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp.
<Steve, much too small a tank for these two fish.  Hoping you plan on upgrading to a larger tank in the near future.>
I'm having a great time with my tank and it is becoming a fantastic hobby of mine. I'm wondering about my clownfish. They don't fight or anything and they are often huddling together at night. Is it possible for them to pair up, and if so could they mate?
<Very unlikely they would mate with a family in mind.>
I've searched the WWM and can not seem to locate a clear answer to this.
<You won't on interbreeding, not a common occurrence.>
Both fish are roughly the same size (4cm).
Thanks for your help!!!
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Stephen

Re: 10 gallon marine tank ... livestk.  - 06/20/2006
Hey,
    Thanks for your reply. I had one more question: i see baby feather dusters growing along with few polyps on the live rock so, is there something i can do to enhance their growth or shall i add something to the tank to feed them... also, since u suggested that i should only have corals and invertebrates, which would be a good coral to start off with, since this is my first time with marine tanks ?    
  Thanks,    
  Roy
<<Roy:  Feather dusters are worms that feed off of suspended particles in the water (such as small bits of food and phytoplankton).  By not having a skimmer, you will probably have more of them than if you did.  As long as there is food available, they will continue to grow and reproduce.  Over time, they will probably reach a natural balance with the nutrients in your tank.  For naturally occurring small feather dusters, you probably don't have to do anything special to feed them.  Mushrooms are good beginner corals.  They are easy to keep and don't need a lot of light.  Best of luck,  Roy>>

Appropriate homes for clowns 6/12/06
Hello,
<Hi>
I am hoping you can help me and others...
<Will try.>
There are A LOT of people asking if it is OK to keep a pair of clownfish, or any clownfish, in a 5 or 10 gallon aquarium.
It is my understanding that any clown should be in a MINIMUM of a 30 gallon tank (a few say 20 is OK).
<I would say for most aquarists, nothing should be kept in a five or ten gallon tank, they are just too unstable.>
Can you help us out and shed some light on this subject please?
<While clowns are tough fish, and actually pretty well suited for aquariums, 5 or 10 gallons just isn't enough space or stable enough.  The salinity changes alone in such a small tank can have drastic effects, never mind the many other parameters than need to be kept stable.>
Thanks as always.
<Hope this helps.>
<Chris>

Appropriate homes for clowns Part II 6/12/06
Thank you very much for your reply.
<Sure>
I agree with you 100%, but its really disheartening to see others tell newbies that 2 clowns in a 10 gallon is just fine...
<I often think of wearing earmuffs to the LFS so I don't have to hear the advice they give new fish keepers.  Often dooming them to failure.  One of the reasons 90% of fish keepers drop out of the hobby within a year.>
No matter how much you tell them that the vast majority of noted marine biologists say otherwise, the "it's cute and I want it no matter what" syndrome kicks in...
<A real shame.  Seems to be a common problem whenever a living thing is involved.>
Thanks again, I just wanted to make sure I right for a change.. lol
<Well, right in my opinion for whatever that's worth.  Of course there are always exceptions, but I would guess 80-90% of all small tanks like you describe fail within a year, resulting in premature death and suffering of the livestock.  Maybe Bob has more specific statistics about this, if they even exist.  Best you can do is try to educate people and hope they apply it to their fishy friends.> <<Don't know re this "failure rate", but wouldn't be surprised. RMF>>
<Thanks for caring.>
<Chris>

Tankmates for maroon clown, damsel, and visiting HI   6/11/06
I am writing for two reasons: I am cycling a 37 gallon so I can move my 3 inch maroon clown, 2 inch Fourstripe damsel, chocolate chip starfish and coral banded shrimp into it. I am wondering what tankmate or two I could add into the mix (before the transfer of the clown and damsel, if needed.) I would like a bicolor blenny if appropriate, and would appreciate any other suggestions you think are workable. Thanks in advance for any help! (other info about system; nondrilled tank with hang on filter and CPR Bak pak skimmer, live rock, but no corals, and 1 inch sandbed, with pc lighting, water changes weekly to two weeks.)
<Mmm, very likely the Maroon will end up killing most any fish that otherwise might fit in this 37... But do agree with your statement re introducing whatever you might try ahead of these two fishes... A Bicolor Blenny (Ecsenius) might go... just not a gamble I'd make>   
  The second question on a different subject. I was reading in an email where Bob and some of the WWM Crew were heading out to Hawaii for some R&R.
<Yes... go there often. I really like the islands, and "it's cheaper to go there to pick the weeds" at the house, rentals there myself than pay someone...>
I would love to visit Hawaii sometime and was wondering if it is inappropriate for me to ask some advice about visiting the islands and to find out the best way of meeting some fellow aquarists while out there.
<Not at all... and if it doesn't seem to odd/striking, I encourage you to consider the Big Island (among the others) and visiting at a time when some of us are out there as well to pal around with>
Also, I desire eventually to reside in a tropic climate near coral reefs so as to be able to go diving regularly.
<Ahhh!>
I just picture myself happiest in that setting/lifestyle (have visited the Keys and been sailing and stayed aboard a small sailing vessel numerous times for short durations so am pretty sure I know what I am 'in for.') I was wondering if anyone of you lives that lifestyle (well, not living aboard necessarily, but in a tropic climate!) and if so, how did you go about getting there or any other words of advice. Thanks so much for taking the time to read and reply!
<Mmm, I travel about half the year staying in the "tropics", though the other half in "close as nice" San Diego, Ca.. Do look on the Net re Hawai'i' and start developing an itinerary of things you'd like to do, places you intend to see... and I'll gladly help you hone this. Bob Fenner>

Stocking an established 20gal  - 06/10/2006
Hey gang,
<Hi there>
Just curious what your opinions on adding a pajama cardinal to the mix with a 6-line wrasse and black Combtooth blenny is in a 20gal FOWLR setup, with ~25lbs of live rock and lots of hiding places. I feel I'm on the borderline for "filled up" but would like a 2nd (or 3rd ;) opinion.
<I also think you are borderline on stocking, but if you are going to add a fish the cardinal would be the way to go.>
Thanks,
Justin
<Chris>

Something strange this way cometh... too much incompatible life in too little water... nanos, clownfish f'   6/10/06
Hello Crew!
<Tom>
So, something very odd is going on in my 24 gal Aqua-pod. I finally have my water parameters in the right place (PH at 8.0 and rising,  
Amon 0, Nitrites 0, <20 Nitrates, Cal 400) and all is happy. But, first my tank inhabitants.
2 Clarkii Clowns, mated with hosted Sebae.
<Not enough room...>
1 Yellow tailed Damsel
1 sally lightfoot
2 peppermint shrimp
4 snails
4 blue crabs - 2 small, 2 very small - well at least I had them!
All my blue crabs are missing - as far as I can tell. My male Clarkii and my Yellowtail Damsel are getting very very cozy and the Damsel keeps clearing the bed of shells I have in the back of the tank. (My female Clarkii still is very 'mean' to her male mate)
<Will likely kill it soon...>
The last odd thing is, I have 2 inches of shell substrate and about 1.5 inches of LS. For some reason, more and more shells keep ending up on top of the sand, and making the sand look terrible. :-(
<Are less dense... will tend to "surface"...>
I'm all for letting my inhabitants live and let live, but this is all very confusing / fascinating!
Any ideas?
Thomas Simpson
<A bigger system, less tasty tankmates. Bob Fenner>

Overstocking a nano reef  - 06/06/2006
Dear Mr. Fenner,
Thank you for the previous help with the Lobophyllia. Since then it has stopped the odd behavior that I described, and the recession has noticeably gotten better.
<Ah, good>
You probably remember what I have in my tank, but I will refresh your memory anyway. I have a 20gal.long nano reef with 130watts
of pc. lighting.(1 60watt daylight,1 60watt actinic ). I need to  replace them soon, and am going to get 2 50/50 daylight/actinic bulbs. 1 aqua clear 200 box filter, 1 CPR BakPak, and a 160gph rotating power head. I have around 25-30lbs. of live rock that has numerous  
clams and feather dusters living on it. My tank inhabitants are as  follows.
2 ocellaris clowns
1 yellow tail blue damsel (Is very well behaved).
1 large Lobophyllia
1 small bird bath coral Turbinaria spp. (added in April).
1 large hairy mushroom
3 Ricordea mushrooms
1 Discosoma mushroom and 2 babies I used to have another but the other  one died, it must have been a picky one, because the other one is doing  great.)
1 colony of daisy polyps (these, sadly, after several months of looking  
great are dying back and are now half of the original size).
1 small colony of star polyps
1 mine sea urchin Eucidaris tribuloides
18 blue leg hermit crabs
<A bunch for a twenty>
I added the following on May,6 1 rock of 6 -7 Discosoma and other misc. inverts (one of the mushrooms is detaching from the rock
I will watch it and move it to a good place if it lets go).
1 very small colony or xenia 1/8in.
1 lettuce sea slug ( I am keeping an eye on the crabs).
     There aren't any big problems other than the daisy polyps. I have given up on trying to figure out what is going on  with them as all the other corals are doing fine. Do you have any idea?
<Yes... allelopathy. See WWM re this group, other cnidarians>
Right  now I only have a few questions about the tank. I was wondering about  the correct placement of my birdbath coral.
I have it about half way up on the rock work where it gets a good amount of light/current. But the polyps never seem to open all the way. I think that it might be getting too much current. How much  should it be getting? I read that it likes a lot  of water flow,
<Yes... about as much as you can likely supply>
so I have the rotating power head blowing over the polyps, but they still won't open. I have tried moving the power head around but it has not worked. Do you have any ideas on what's wrong? I was wondering if I can feed it  frozen shrimp?
<Small bits of this, yes>
(The kind people eat). Also exactly how do you feed it, does it  grab it like the lobo or what?
<Yes, similarly sticky>
Also will the slug find enough algae around the tank or will I have to give it some dried stuff?
<No way to tell... however... you need more volume period>
I am making a schedule for my tank and would appreciate your opinion on it.
Feed the fish every morning/night
Put 1 teaspoon of Kent Marine Liquid Calcium
25% water change every Monday
Feed corals shrimp every Tuesday
Feed corals Kent Marine Micro-vert every Thursday
Clean out filter foam and powerhead prefilter every week while doing water change.
    For my next coral I was thinking of getting a  brightly colored Zoanthus
<I would not... too toxic...>
or another brightly colored species of coral that is  reasonably easy to keep and cost about $35, do you have any suggestions. ( All  the corals in my tank are either a shade of green, pink or brown. I would love  to have another color.)
Thank you for your help,
MDM
<Perhaps a sojourn working at a LFS will help your "addiction" and in turn give you a platform to serve others in your/our interest... Otherwise or in addition... I would not buy, place more livestock here, but be saving up for a much larger system. Bob Fenner>

Stocking a 30g Marine Aquarium  6/3/06
Hi there Crew,
<Hi there you have Leslie with you here today.>
I have to say I love your website it is informative!!!  
<Thank you and glad to hear you are enjoying it.>
I have had a 30 gal long tank with LR Penguin 280 filter which  contains 2 red legged crab 1 blue legged crab,1 peppermint shrimp, 3 feather dusters, 1 scooter blenny, 1 coral beauty, 1 sailfin tang, 1 snowflake eel and a knobby star.  I would like to add some soft corals and possibly another fish. Any suggestions?
Well actually you are already quite a bit overstocked. 30g is much to small for the Tang,  eel and the Scooter Blenny.>
I am also trying to create a refugium with a ten gal tank I have.  Any suggestions for what to stock it with to keep these guys happy?  Or should I upgrade to a larger tank using the 30 gal for a refugium?  
<A larger tank would be the way to go. 75g to 100g  would be a nice comfortable size for the Tang. Please do have a look at these 2 articles ….Snowflake Eels http://www.wetwebmedia.com/snowflakemoray.htm and Sailfin Tangs http://www.wetwebmedia.com/zebrasom.htm>
Thanks for all the help guys we appreciate it!!!
<Your most welcome, Leslie>

Re: Stocking Questions, sm. mar.  6/5/06
Hey again, guys. I'm stumped as to the next group of inhabitants for my 30 gallon tank. It has a ~3inch Clark's clown, a ~3.5 inch Jawfish (undescribed species, black head, blue with yellow barred body) and some mushroom anemones. All are doing quite well, feeding, and looking very healthy. No ammonia, no nitrate, less than 10 ppm nitrate 1.025-.027 SG, 8.2 pH and 6% water changes every week. I'm stuck as to whether to put a group of three cardinals (Banggai or Pajama) in next or a firefish (Nemateleotris magnifica). I think the 3 cardinals would be a bit heavy on the stocking, but I worry that the firefish would be scared out of its mind by the clown.
<You are likely correct here>
However, my Jawfish does very well, and gets food very well-I distract the clown while I feed the Jawfish. Thanks for the help!
<Read on my friend... on WWM... elsewhere. Bob Fenner>

About my hermit crabs... and no-no's re nanos... maint.    5/28/06
Hi, guys, I have spent all evening reading your very interesting site. It has already  answered many of my questions about hermit crabs.  But I would like, if possible, to have a straight answer to the following questions:  
<Okay>
How many hermit crabs do I need for a 24 nano tank with about 15 pounds of live rock?  
<Need? None, zero, zip>
I have about 13 hermit crabs, 3 snails, and a emerald crab.
<Watch this last... can become an "eater upper"...>
At the beginning they did an excellent job and cleaned all of my rocks in about a week.  My rocks looked superb with beautiful violet and green colorations.  But they seem not to be cleaning them as much.  Many times I do not even see them.  They spend many hours hidden in the rocks! Therefore, the rocks are being covered with red and brown hairy algae which seems impossible to get rid of despite my weekly changes of water, an installation of another power head and reduction of the hours of light from 12 to 9 hours per day. Why are they so shy and disinterested in cleaning the rocks?
<Mmm, very likely there has been a "natural" shift in the make-up/preponderance of the algae types/species/groups here... from the more tasty "red and greens" to the less-palatable browns and BGA... and also probable, a shift in food/feeding preference to excess food from scavenging.>
Besides the cleaning crew I have two blue chromis and a rose bulb anemone with its beautiful clown fish.
Jeanette
<... dangerously crowded... Do be "religious" re water quality testing, water changes... Bob Fenner>

Crab v Crab... New Mad Magazine toon heading    5/28/06
WWM Crew,
<Charles>
I have a Nano 24 marine tank and I have been up and running for about a year now.  I just recovered from a bout of Cyanobacteria.  I had to completely break-down the tank, clean up all the rocks and vacuum up all of the substrate.  
<No fun>
I did a >50% water change and then dosed the tank with Maracyn for 5 days doing some additional water changes each day.  Surprisingly, I didn't lose anything.
<Lucky... thus far>
I have 1 clarkii clown, 1 Rainford's goby, a dozen or so snails (mostly turban and Cerith), 10 or so hermit crabs (zebra, blue and scarlet), an arrow crab and about 15-20 lbs of live rock.  I have started using ChemiPure carbon, a surface skimmer and a current-usa fission protein
skimmer in the back. I also put in some macro algae.
<All good steps>
After cleaning/vacuuming the substrate, I figured out I have been really overfeeding these fish.  And I switched from the flakes that I have been using to Hikari brand 'Marine-S' pelletized food.  I have really cut back on the amount and these fish are pretty hungry all of the time now.  And I certainly don't feed enough to create detritus for the inverts in the tank. I figure that they will have to live on the algae.
<... watch the Arrow Crab... it will eat the others...>
  However, today, I witnessed one of the blue hermits pull another one out of its shell and tear it up.  Then the clown pulled them into the back and the arrow crab took care of the rest.  It was quite a show.
<Something about Romans, the Coliseums...>
Should I feed this tank more? or is this just typical and to be expected?
<The latter... given the size of system, life...>
Learning every day!
Chuck Martin
<Thank goodness, or something like it. Bob Fenner>

New Tank stocking 5/28/06
I have recently set up a new sw tank. It is a 30g long FOWLR. I am currently running a Rena Filstar XP1 canister w/250gph flow rate. I have a Seaclone 100 protein skimmer (piece of junk). <I agree> I am running 2 Hagen AquaClear 3000 powerheads w/264gph flow rate. I have about 15 lbs. of live Fiji rock. <A little more wouldn't hurt.>  My substrate is crushed coral. <A pain to clean, I prefer sand.>  I currently have 1 blue damsel, 1 Banggai cardinal, 1 cleaner shrimp, 1 camel shrimp, and 5 blue-legged hermit crabs. I would like any suggestions on what I can do differently/more efficiently and what kind/how many fish I can add for a nice non-aggressive community tank. I would appreciate any input that you seasoned SW aquarists have to offer a newbie.
<Well, the tank will not be non-aggressive with the damsel, he will impose his will soon enough.  However you could still add 1 fish to the tank in my opinion.  Perhaps one of the smaller wrasses, a clown, a Gramma, or a host of others, all available on WetWeb.  Just make sure it stays  small and is not too passive so it can stand up to the damsel.  The trick is to find one that doesn't become a bully itself.>
<Chris>

Herbivore for a Nano Tank? - 05/27/06
Hello!
<<Howdy!>>
Wow, what a massive amount of information you have here on the WWM!
<<Indeed>>  
It's been fun to read, and reading I've been doing!
<<Excellent>>
First, tank specs:
Aqua-cube 24 - 6 months now, pH at <7.8 (desperately trying to raise this, more later)
<<Mmm, are you buffering your make-up/salt mix water?  Have you tested the pH on these?>>
Ammonia at zero, Nitrites at zero, Nitrates at <20, Calcium at 380 (raising this)
<<Why?  380ppm is fine...is not always a good thing to flirt with the upper limits>>
Salinity at 1.025, 10% water change weekly - just got a RO unit  
and I hope this may help reduce algae.
<<Possibly>>
Temp at 80 and because of the 12 hours of lighting, can't seem to reduce it.
<<Should be fine really...but you could try placing a small fan to blow across the surface of the water for some evaporative cooling>>
12 lb. of LR (curing more as we speak - moved up from a 12 gal.  
Eclipse - don't get me started)
10 lb. LS over a crushed coral substrate
2 mated Clarkii Clowns (had 3, that was an adventure) with a hosted Sebae Anemone (yeah I know, but so far so good)
2 peppermint shrimp
4 snails
4 Hermit crabs, 2 small, 2 very small
1 sally lightfoot crab
<<Keep a watchful eye on the crab...could jeopardize your fish as it grows larger>>
Much lighter feedings now that I've learned better.
<<Lighter, but more frequent I hope>>
So my question is this.  As my pH has dropped, red and green algae has bloomed all over my LR - over bloomed (the snails have taken care of the glass) - and from what I've read, this is a typical occurrence.
<<Algae succession, yes...though not having filtered make-up water may be a big factor here as well>>
I would like to take a natural approach to reducing it rather than a chemical one.
<<A biological solution is always better, along with determining/eliminating the cause.  Hopefully you have gone through our nuisance algae FAQs?>>
What fish can I get to eat the hairy, stringy algae, without over taxing my system.
<<You're quite limited by the size of the system...no tangs please!>>
I am very aware and consigned to keep the bio-load and stocking of this small tank light.
<<Very good to hear>>
Lawnmower Blenny?  Sand sifting fish?  What?
<<The blenny is likely your best option...though as I'm sure you are aware, is no guarantee>>
Thanks for your help!!!
Thomas Simpson
<<Regards, Eric Russell>>

Potential Nano Tank ... Stonogobiops nematodes 10 gallon Tank  - 05/19/2006
Hi Crew,
<Hey Michelle.>
I would like to run a potential tank by you.
<Sure.>
Would a 10 gallon tank make a healthy home for two Stonogobiops nematodes (blackray shrimp goby) and their shrimp?
<No there would be some territorial issues.>
10 gallon saltwater
2 NO florescent lights
Live Rock
2 inches sand bed
Aqua Clear filter (modify for refugium)
<Cool.>
To include a firefish, what is the minimum size the tank should be for all three fish?
<I’d say a 20 gallon long, minimum, but while the tank is biologically large enough for all three of these fish, there may yet still be territorial issues with the gobies and their respective shrimp pairs….I would, personally, make another choice and only go with one pair.>
Can coralline algae grow under NO lights?
<Sure will, in a tank of this size. Just keep calcium high and alkalinity/ph, etc. . in the appropriate fields.>
Will this setup allow mushrooms to thrive in it?
<Some, not all…research exact species.>
I'm thinking about coming back to salt, but don't want a full blown reef tank.
<If this is your first time back to salt in a while you may want to stay away form something and unstable as a 10 gallon nano.>
I'm interested in your thoughts on this tank set up and if you think it will be successful (happy and healthy inhabitants).
<Just see my comments above.>
Thanks a million for your great website!
<Your welcome and thank you.>
Michelle

Stonogobiops nematodes 10 gallon Tank, RMF's go  - 05/19/2006
Hi Crew,
I would like to run a potential tank by you.  Would a 10 gallon tank
make a healthy home for two Stonogobiops nematodes (blackray shrimp goby) and their shrimp?
<Mmm, a bit small... with the inherent risks therein... instability, psychological crowding... but possible>
10 gallon saltwater
2 NO florescent lights
Live Rock
2 inches sand bed
Aqua Clear filter (modify for refugium)
To include a firefish, what is the minimum size the tank should be for all three fish?
<... depends on the species of Firefish/Microdesmid... 29 or more gallons IMO>
Can coralline algae grow under NO lights?  
<Yes>
Will this setup allow mushrooms to thrive in it?
<Possibly>
I'm thinking about coming back to salt, but don't want a full blown reef tank.  I'm interested in your thoughts on this tank set up and if
you think it will be successful (happy and healthy inhabitants).
Thanks a million for your great website!
Michelle
<Thank you for being part of it. Bob Fenner>

20g Tank, Fish and a Shoehorn - 05/15/2006
Good morning,
<Hello.>
I have a question about the sudden health of my blue regal tang.  I've been getting my 90 gallon salt tank converted to a sump system, installing new live rock, etc.  In the meantime, my critters have been sharing a 20 gallon tank.  I have one larger porous piece of live rock and a few smaller pieces in this 20gallon tank.  I have good filtration
out of a Fluval canister as well as a maxi-jet 1200 to increase tank circulation/flow.
My critters:
2.5" Regal Tang
2 False Percula Clowns
1 Royal Dottyback
1 CBS
<These guys are sharing a 20 gallon tank?!  This is a VERY small space to cram this amount of life....  Even temporarily.>
Two days ago, my small Regal Tang was alert, swimming around, even fighting for an algae pellet.  He always sleeps in the same little nook in the liverock.  Yesterday when the lights were on, he remained in his little nook and seemed to be breathing rather fast.  I turned the tank lights off to see if that would relieve some stress.  This morning, he
was stuck against my Maxijet Powerhead breathing fast.  I turned the power off on the powerhead and my tang fell to the substrate and then began to swim.  He does have troubles swimming.  He'll lay on the bottom of the tank for 10 minutes or so then try to swim.  He keeps breathing rapidly.  The powerhead has left 3 small horizontal marks across his body.  There are no signs of fin-picking or open wounds.  As well, my other fish get along well with the tang; they always swim together and feed together.  
<I would bet that the Dottyback has been aggressive when you haven't seen, or perhaps that coral banded shrimp....  Though you also haven't listed your water parameters, which may well be at fault, nor how long these animals have been in the system; it could be that the tang or another fish introduced disease.>
Even now, with the tang laying on the bottom the other fish swim over to look at him but nobody picks at him.  I had done a water test 6 days before this happened; water quality was good.  I did a test this morning, water quality is still good.  
<"Good" really isn't helpful for me to give you my observations....  Actual readings are of importance.>
I just recently did a 30% water change last week.  Two other things I am thinking of.  I had the net in the tank three days ago trying to start catching and moving fish over.  I had already moved my goby over
<There were MORE animals in the 20g tank?  I would be very surprised if the water quality was optimal.>
and spent some time trying to catch my CBS.  All this time, the tang was hiding in his hole - perhaps stressed out?  I don't think this was the issue.  I have had some Cyanobacteria problems in my tank and it followed the live rock into the 20 gallon tank.
<Not surprising.>
I had introduced some of that orangey powdered treatment that seems to fight the bacteria well.
<Uhh, though "orangey powdered treatment" is descriptive, it means nothing to me....  Be this Erythromycin or some other chemical/medicine/algaecide, it may have been toxic to the tang.>
And yes I realize that this isn't a long-term solution.
<Then please....  don't use it.  Work on fixing the REAL problem - too much life in too small a space making too much nutrients for the tank to handle.>
That's why I'm getting the sump in my 90 gallon tank for a refugium and I already have a 6" sand bed in my altered tank.  I have used this Cyanobacteria treatment two other times in my 90 gallon tank, without any apparent effect on my fish.  I used a less than proportionate amount in my 20 gallon tank, and all my fish are fine a week later except for the tang.  Any thoughts?
<Mainly that you NOT add any algaecides or other cocktails to this system, and decrease the amount of life or increase the amount of water, and pronto....  And I strongly urge you to remove the tang to a separate quarantine system with a bare bottom and some PVC joints for hiding/security so you can observe the animal more closely and treat if necessary in a safer environment.  Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

Newbie Coral Keepers  - 05/13/2006
Crew,
<Mike.>
What corals that are easy to take care of with Power Compact lighting in a 29 gal tank with 130 watts of pc....  
<My three favorite for beginners are 'shrooms and Zoanthus...maybe a small captive reared piece of Sinularia or Sarcophyton.>
  Nothing else in tank except LR and cleaning critters.   will add a few fish but keeping it minimal
<Okay.>
Thoughts I like are mushrooms, leather and brain or maybe some torch.  
<Potentially good choices...do research the exact species as some of these terms are broad.>
Not sure if they are compatible or the small space could cause problems.  
<Long term w/ growth there cold be problems, yes.>
I would just like the shrooms myself but my better half wants something that waves in the water current.  
<Try some green star polyps or clove polyps.>
Any suggestions help.
<See above.>
The more I read the more confused I get as to which ones can do well in a small environment.  If there is some place am missing on your sight to find the answers let me know.....  
<Just keep reading my friend, use the google search feature on out home page.>
Michael
<Adam J.>

New Nano Saltwater tank 5/12/06
Hi Bob.
<Hi, Chris with you tonight>
I am really new to the salt world. I have kept freshwater fish for three years, and recently bought a 12 gallon AquaPod.
<Tiny for a saltwater tank, especially for your first.>
I wanted to do a reef, so my local store has been helping me get that set up. We let the little tank cycle for about a week with a thin layer of live sand (less than an inch thick) about 7 to 10 pounds of live rock. All water tests look great, with the exception of the nitrites are at .5.
<Not great, nitrites need to be 0 before adding livestock.>
Started off adding a turbo snail, and three blue legged hermits. Kept a close eye on all of them, and they are doing great. Dropped in some red algae, and one feather duster about three days later. All is well.
<Too much too soon>
So I moved on to wanting to add a fish. We purchased a Royal Gramma, and it is a riot to watch. He eats well, and is all over the tank. <Nice fish> My son wanted "Nemo" from the beginning, and I liked the Clowns as well, so I asked, and our LFS said they preferred I kept only one fish in the 12 gallon tank, but we could "probably get away with a small clown." So we bought a small False Perc. that they had. Added him yesterday, and he just sticks to the left side of the tank, and swims up and down with his reflection. Is this always going to be the case with him? Can a single clown be kept, or do they need to be in pairs to be happy? I would hate to have to get rid of my royal.
He also would not even look at the shrimp I fed yesterday.
Thanks for any advice you can give me.
Gram M.
<2 fish for a tank that size is a lot.  Plus the Gramma can be a terror, in my 46G my Gramma owns most of the tank, and is quite aggressive in keeping the clowns out of his territory.  I'm afraid in a 12G there just isn't enough room for both of them.  Really one fish is plenty for that tank.  Plus poor water quality with .5 nitrite she is getting a double whammy.>
<Chris>  

New Nano Saltwater tank Part II 5/12/06
Well, this is discouraging. <Sorry> The Gramma and the clown get along fine. <Good> They were hanging out side by side today eating. My Nitrates are 0, water PH is 8.2 Ammonia .25 <MUST be 0> and the Alkalinity is at 300. The only thing that was a touch high was the nitrite, and I went off the advice of my local store. The owner there has a 12 gallon AquaPod as well that she has kept for a year, with great success.
So what will happen if I leave them both in there...or what should I do at this point? Return the clown? Remove things from the tank? I sure appreciate the time you took to reply to me, and I don't want to hurt any of the fish, or coral.
Gram M.
<At this point I would take both fish back to the store if possible.  Have them keep them until both ammonia and nitrite are measuring 0.  That is when the tank is cycled and ready for livestock.  It can take up to 4 weeks.  Then add both fish together and be ready to change water since adding 2 fish at once can cause ammonia/nitrite to rise.  Clowns are pretty tough so he should be able to co-exist with the Gramma, but keep an eye on them to make sure.  QTing is important, please check out the articles on WWM to get more information on them.  Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but a little work now will make long term success much easier to achieve.  Remember, with aquariums nothing good happens fast.>
<Chris>

Blue Reef Chromis in Nano..- 5/9/2006
Quick question - can I keep a single blue reef chromis?
<<I wouldn’t, no.>>
If not, can you suggest a good BLUE fish for a nano?  I have a pair of [very] juvenile (1") ocellaris clowns and a yellow watchman goby/candy pistol shrimp pair along with softies, zoas, mushrooms and various cleaning critters.
<<Look into neon gobies. Gobiosoma oceanops is one of my favorites, and has startling blue lines.  Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/neongobies.htm.  They are great nano fish, although I’d worry about the other goby if your nano is very small..>>
Thanks!
P.s. Yes, within the next year they will all be going into a larger tank after I move.
<<Why not wait, then? Larger=more/different stocking options.  Lisa.>>

Fish Stocking   4/21/06
Hello Crew,
I need some advise on stocking my new system . I upgraded my system from a 290 gallon system to a 607 gallon system.  My new display tank is an custom 450 gallon Reef ready display tank. The dimensions are 96" x 36" 30" and the tank has a 63 gallon custom acrylic sump. Additionally it has a 55 gallon custom acrylic refugium also being used as a grow out tank for coral frags along with a 39 gal rock filled refugium. Lighting consists of 3 250 watt (1-10k, 1-14k and 1-20k) MH HQI and 4 39 watt actinic T5's along with 13 LED Moonlights over the main tank. The refugium is lit by a 400 watt MH.
<... a bit much>
I am running 2 skimmers on this tank a EuroReef CS 8-3 +RC and a Deltec APF600. For heaters I have 2 250 watt heaters
<... hope this site is otherwise heated>
and 2 grounding probes. The return pump is a Blueline 100 HD, a Sequence Barracuda pump is used to power the other component and the circulation is provided by 2 Tunze Streams 6000 and 2 Tunze Streams 6100 along with 2 Tunze Turbelle Pumps. Cooling is done by 2 Titanium Chillers a 1/4 hp and  a 1/3 hp. I am using a Gamma 40 watt UV sterilizer to reduce parasites and algae.
<Small...>
The top off water is provided by a 5 stage RO/DI filter and the water level is maintained by a Tunze Osmolator.
The overflow boxes contain 1 Durso stand pipe 1 1/2" and the other is 1" return line.
<... is this sufficient?>
Water is returned to the tank via 1" PVC up through the overflows and across the back of the tank to each corner. Then back into the tank via a 1" bulkhead. The salt Mix is Tropic Marin. Lighting cycle is controlled by a Aquacontroller III Pro from my old tank. I will be replacing this with a IKS controller in the near future.. Additives are CalxMax part A and B, and Kent Micro-vert.
Tank Aquascaping consists of the following:
100lbs of Marshall Island Live Rock
145lbs of Tonga Live Rock
16lbs of Tonga Branch Rock
84lbs of Base Rock
420lbs of Live Sand
Inhabitants:
1 Sailfin Tang
1 Mimic Tang
1 Marine Beta
2 True Percula Clowns
3 Blue Eyed cardinals
1 Pajama Cardinal
1 Opossum wrasse
3 Bar Gobies
1 Purple Dottyback
1 Mandarin
7 Fire Shrimp
3 Cleaner Shrimp
Various corals
Various snails and hermit crabs.
Now I am looking at adding some additional fish into the system. I would like to add the fish listed below but I am not sure if the system can handle the bioload. Will my system be able to handle the additional fish? I have asked several LFS and have been given conflicting answers. So I figured I would ask the Crew what they think.
3 Longfin Bannerfish
a pair of  Hawaiian Flame Wrasses
a pair of Blue Throated Triggers
2 more Bar Gobies
3 Blue Chromis
<All good choices... the triggers might cause you some worry... just being big/ger... and will likely consume the shrimp in time. Bob Fenner>

Order of introduction  - 04/10/2006
I'm setting up a 30 gallon saltwater system and I am wondering the best order to stock the tank in...here's my livestock list.
Royal Gramma
Clark's Clown
Yellow Jawfish
Sharknose Goby (maybe)
Clown Goby (maybe)
Bubble Tip Anemone
Cleaner Shrimp
Hermits, Snails
I thought at first that adding the clown and the anemone first would get me better success with the symbiosis and would help the fish  
added later to know where the anemone is from the start as not  to be eaten. But, you guys don't recommend adding anemones to anything but  
a mature tank.  Would adding the anemone later cause any problems? I would really like to see the BTA host the clown, and I'm a bit  
worried adding the BTA after the jawfish, considering the sentiment's I've heard about jawfish death by anemone. Thanks, guys!
<To tell you the truth I wouldn't have you add an anemone to such a small tank anyway.  I'm really not a proponent of keeping BTAs to begin with either.  They aren't easy to maintain, require exceptional water quality and more than likely will perish in your tank.  So I wouldn't suggest adding one at all - no matter what order you put it in.  Jen S.>

Nano Pack <lunch> 4/9/06
Hi my name is mason and i have a 27 gallon nano-cube with a dogface puffer, 2 left-footed hermit crab, and 1 margarita snail. I was wondering if i can buy this pack with;
          Scarlet Hermit Crab:  5    Blueleg Hermit Crab:  5    Turbo/Astrea Snail:  10    Nassarius Snail:  5    Queen Conch - Aquacultured:  2
<Hello there Mason, I don't see why you couldn't get this pack.  Some have problems with a queen conch in a tank that small.  Do your research on them on the website and then you can make an education decision on if you want to risk it.  Other than that it seems a go.  Thanks, Jen S.? <<Jen... a Dogface Puffer in a 27 gallon nano tank? And... it will eat all these... assuredly. RMF who suspects you didn't see/register the Arothron here>>
      Thank You
              SOLD OUT
Click her to contact the site owner about this product.             -->

Small system set-up, stocking  - 04/02/06
Dear WWM crew: Thanks for your valuable, inexhaustible volumes of information. <You're welcome.>
I've spent months researching and setting up and my first saltwater tank is ready to go. I've held out on asking any questions till now but felt I had to run this by you before I added any livestock. My system is: 30 gallon long, plus 10 gallon sump/wet-dry built into the back. I removed
the bioballs and converted the space to a ~6 gallon refugium with a 5-in. DSB, a few small pieces of live rock, and clump of Chaetomorpha. <Very good idea doing this.> I diverted some of the flow to maintain ~15x turnover, and light it with an 18 watt PC, alternating day/night with main tank. <Most, including myself leave the refugium lighting on 24/7.> The sump also has a Clear-for-life venturi skimmer, foam filters, and a carbon bag.
My tank has 40 lbs. live rock, 1 inch aragonite sand, 130 watt PC 10000K 50-50 lighting, Rio 1700 powerhead. I had a bit of a BGA bloom after I added
the LR, but things seem to have stabilized after a few weeks of regular water changes and the addition of the Chaetomorpha and 20 Margarita and a
few Cerith snails. My parameters are 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, ~5 nitrates (forgot the units...is it ppm?). <Yes> I'm using natural seawater from Scripps (with fingers crossed). As for fishes, I'd like to add (in this order?) an Ocellaris clown, a Royal Gramma, and a fourline wrasse. I've read the wrasse can be a bit aggressive,
especially with snails. Would this be a wise addition? <No> I love their playful behavior, but have heard conflicting information, so please advise. Maybe a
fairy wrasse, instead? <Much better, more interesting/colorful.> I'd also like to add a pair of neon gobies, but might
they be picked on by the others, even if I added them first? <Don't believe so, but Neon Gobies are very aggressive among themselves unless they are a mated pair, so caution should be used here if adding two.> And would they mind only having 1-inch of sand to dig in?  <Wouldn't mind.> I'd also love to hear if you
have a favorite, perhaps an active, under-appreciated fish I could add in place of the wrasse or gobies that might coexist more peacefully. <A Yellow Watchman Goby will work.> I'd had my heard set on a Rainford's goby, but now think my small system will not provide the sustenance needed. True? <No, they will accept most foods, do need at least two inches of sand for these guys.> Down the road, I'd also like to add a few soft corals, like a pulsing xenia and green star polyp.
Thanks so much for reading, I look forward to your advice.
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Scott, San Diego

Tubastrea problem ... nano lvstkg, Dendro. sys.    3/29/06
Hi Crew,
<Aaron>
I hope you guys can help me narrow down a problem I have. I have a 15g nano setup bare bottom with a BakPak dual, 4x13 watt T5 and
two powerheads for flow.  There is about 15 pounds of live rock in the tank.
For occupants I have
3 feather dusters
10 Blue Leg Hermits
15 or so Astrea snails
1 1" percula clown
1 firefish
1 Red Scooter Blenny
These were the occupants of my FO tank I broke up to make a reef tank, I've added the following coral frags.
2 Ricordea Polyps
1 Trachyphyllia
3 colonies of Protopalythoa
1 unidentified zoanthid
1 small Xenia colony
1 Lobophytum
1 Sarcophyton
1 6"x6" mat of Green Star polyps
<Very hard to keep such a "garden" mix of cnidarians in good health in such a small volume...>
I feed a variety of things, usually a fix of live rotifers and phytoplankton but also zooplankton and Artemia.  Regular feeding of mysis to the
Trachyphyllia.  Everything has exhibited good health and growth, Protopalythoa growth is actually kind of out of control.
<And toxic>
I've never had any trouble with my water parameters ammonia and Nitrites always test 0, Nitrate <10, calcium between 400 and 450.  I dose iodide once a week and maintain the other elements with HBH balance blocks.
About 3 weeks ago I added a nice dark orange Tubastrea and I could never get it to open up for me,
<Open at night time...>
I tried every kind of food you can imagine.  After a while I noticed that both the Sarcophyton that was quite close to the Sun
Polyps was kind of droopy and that the Lobophytum that was clear across the tank was also not looking quite itself.  I didn't think much of it at first, those corals can be kind of moody but when they didn't come around in a few days I tested, did a water change and switched the carbon I had in the skimmer outflow.  No change.
On a hunch I moved the Tubastrea to my frogfish tank.  Within hours the polyps had started to swell up more and tonight I got it to open up a little bit with some mysis.  The softies in the other tank have also started to come around as well.
<Ah, good>
Problem solved?  Not really.  I have a new system I hope to have finished this week, it's a 20g with a 20g sump that has a large fuge area I was planning on keeping the frogfish (Histiophryne bougainvilli) in.   I
<Unusual: http://filaman.ifm-geomar.de/Summary/SpeciesSummary.php?id=24733>
was planning on taking both the smaller tanks down.   Can you offer any advice on how I can keep the softies and the Tubastrea in the same tank?
<Mmm, not likely going to be able to. There is just too much allelopathy amongst the mix you present. I would trade in what you have to unless you can reconcile to having more than one, and larger systems. Bob Fenner>

Anemone Lighting/Systems - 3/20/2006
Hi there,
<<Hi Jeff!>>
I got a 12g Nano Cube Deluxe for Christmas.
<<Lucky you!>>
The Lighting is two 24-watt 50/50 compact fluorescent lamps. Is that enough for a bubble tip anemone?
<<A 12-gallon tank is not large enough to house this animal.>>
I was also wondering if you knew if you can fit a protein skimmer in a Nano Cube.
<<Look into models that hang onto the tank, or look into adding a sump, to which you can add a skimmer.>>
Thanks for your time,
Jeff Sehl
<<Glad to help. Lisa.>>

20 gallons seawater aquarium... skimmer? Stkg.   3/18/06
Hi,
I wonder if you can help solve these few issues. I made a home made 20 gallons seawater aquarium as I live in Puerto Rico. I put a few rocks, and so far I have seen a few crabs and hermits going around. Also, I have a small spirograph in a rock,
<Likely a Featherduster worm to other readers>
2 sea cucumbers and 4 fishes captured (2 young damselfishes and 2 blennies).
<Neat>
1) There is some fighting around with the damselfishes, should I wait a bit more to see if they get along (they are together for a week)?
<Mmm, no... a twenty is too small for but one... and even this might prove too aggressive to other fishes... I'd remove at least one>
2) I'd like to put a doctor fish (young) but I know they like space. I captured one last year in another tank I made but it didn't eat and died...
Anyway to find something to please it?
<A larger system...>
3) I have a good filter but I guess I still need a skimmer soon... What would you advice CHEAP for this small aquarium of tolerant fishes...?
<A small in-tank model or a hang-on type... even a modified "Skilter" would be of benefit here. Please see here: http://wetwebmedia.com/skimrs4smsysfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
thanks...
--
Pascal

Stocking Level   3/14/06
Hello,  <Hello Angela.>
I am a new hobbyist of the saltwater tanks, or any tanks, for that matter.  I only have a 20 gallon tank with about 20 lb in live rock, no coral yet (although I plan to get some).  Hermit crabs too.  I want to get a male and female clownfish <the clowns will decide who will be the male.> and also an anemone but the person we bought the tank from didn't tell us that our lighting for this aquarium was not enough. <Should have told you the tank isn't large enough for an anemone also.> We only have a white
18 watt bulb.  I know I need lots more lighting but am not sure how much
would be good.  I would appreciate any advice.  <Angela, stay away from anemones.  Very difficult to keep alive for any length of time.  Do research on our site for animals you may be interested in and learn about their needs/requirements before purchasing.  Will save you much grief down the line.>
Thanks!  <You're welcome.>
Angela

24 gallon Aquapod  - 03/13/2006
Howdy Guys,
   <And some ladies...>
       First let me say I love your site. I attribute my first tank's (75 gallon reef) success to mostly you guys a lot of research and a little luck. It was gorgeous. I had to take it down to move but will be replacing it with a 180 gallon, I am HOOKED!
<Yikes!>
      Now to my question. Until I can get my big tank up and to help me from going through withdrawals I purchased a 24 gallon Aquapod. I would like to keep a dwarf lion fish and possibly a ghost eel with some LPS coral.
<Not good choices for this size/volume...>
I am curious about the lighting. It comes with a 70w 14,000k metal halide. Is this enough light or do I need to up to 150?
<... please see WWM re>
Lastly, can I buy just the bulb or do I have to buy a completely new fixture? Thanx as usual for your valuable advice.
          Sincerely, Butch
<See the manufacturer re their lighting suggestion, liability. Bob Fenner>

Starting Over with my 20 gal - lessons learned ready to restock  - 03/11/2006
Hello to Bob and the Crew,
<Hi Karen>
I very much appreciate your site and your willingness to answer questions of novices like me. In background, I started my 20 gal marine
tank in November '05 with live sand, a small live rock, Penguin 200 bio-wheel filter, Sea-clone 100 skimmer, heater and thermometer. After
cycling, waiting and testing, I added a coral beauty angel
<Needs a much larger world...>
and a cleaner shrimp, along with some red-legged hermits and a turbo snail. They lived peacefully for about a month. Then I got excited and added an ocellaris clown and a green clown (rippled coral) goby. And a lemon peel angel.
<...?!>
Oops. Then I wrote to you.  I took your (Bob's) advice and returned the lemon peel, although, sadly, too late I fear. After much soul searching and observing the stress level of my clown, I also returned the coral beauty (also on Bob's advice that a 20 gal is really too small for him).
<Ah, yes>
I fought off a round of ich in a hastily constructed quarantine tank with fresh water dips and RidIch treatments. My goby, the one affected
by the ich, seemed to recover well, then about 2 weeks after returning to the main tank, he started to lose his green color and became white
with orange stripes/spots rather than green with orange stripes/spots. Another week and he was gone.
<Likely residual effect... from the stress of infestation, being moved, the Malachite...>
I tested my water throughout and had maintained 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and <30 nitrates, ph stable at 8.2,
temp stable at 78 degrees. My LFS tested my phosphates and said they were 'minimal to none'. I got a swing arm hydrometer because I couldn't see well enough to read the floating one, and keep it right 'in the middle' (sorry, not looking at it right now and can't remember the
number).
Now to the present: Shortly after the quarantine incident, my penguin quit on me so I switched (upgraded?) to a Fluval 205 canister with its
standard set-up. Shortly after that my skimmer started blowing out the little tiny bubbles again (like it did that time I put stress coat in my
tank) but not foaming over the top like before. I dismantled and cleaned it (hot water only) but am not completely convinced that it is working right. My LFS says that if I only have one fish, then it may not foam?
<This is correct>
I have checked all the connections and gaskets and they seem good. Water testing is still good, including phosphates. My one little clown and his complement of 'bugs' as my husband calls the shrimp, snail, and hermits, are doing fine. He is acting 'normal' again now that he is not stressed out by the coral beauty. I have even seen him letting the shrimp clean him.  I think I am ready to try again with some more fish. I hope that I am being realistic on what I can have in my 20 gal and am committed to keeping the water quality high. I have researched your site, re-read my books, and here is what I have come up with. I'd really appreciate your feed-back:
What I have:
Equipment:
20 gal tank
live sand
2lbs live rock and 4lbs base rock
Fluval 205 canister
Sea Clone 100 skimmer
Heater
Power head for circulation
Standard hood with florescent light (the one that came with the
aquarium)
Livestock:
1 ocellaris clown (about 2" long)
1 cleaner shrimp (about 2 1/2" long)
1 'Mexican' turbo snail (cone shaped with peppermint striped bottom)
1 blue legged hermit
5 red legged hermits
What I want to get:
1 more ocellaris clown (can I have a black one?)
<Maybe... you'd do well to "float" the present clown... in an all-plastic breeding net, small colander... for a week or so... make sure the new clown is decidedly larger or smaller... covered on WWM>
1 Royal Gramma and/or a black cap Gramma (can't have both, can I?)
<No... and I wouldn't actually try either here>
1 citron goby
<A cleaner goby/Gobiosoma species would be better. Gobiodon's mainly eat live coral polyps...>
1 other colorful goby, possibly another rippled coral or just a 2nd citron
1 small cowry snail and/or a fighting conch
<Not good choices here>
Is there a starfish or other interesting non-fish I can have? How much more live rock should I get? Do I need a special light?
<All posted...>
Thank you so much (in advance) for any help/advice you can give. I have spent hours reading and I really want to do this right this time, for my sake and my fish. I was heartbroken at both the death of the lemon peel and the goby, and at having to return my coral beauty. I don't want to do that again. If I can't get it right this time I may have to consider going back to fresh water, but I have always wanted to do salt water and I'd really like to make a go of it.
Karen Garrett
<Keep reading Karen... much better to know what you're up to than experiment here. Bob Fenner>

A Dark Day For The Tank - 03/28/06
Dear Bob and Crew,
<<EricR here tonight>>
I hate to say it (not that my ego is hurt, but it really kills me to lose a fish), but you were right.  My Banggai High Fin jumped out of the tank last night due to fighting and overcrowding.
<<Mmm yes, does happen...sadly...>>
The reason the fish was able to get out was because my tank (JBJ Nano-cube 24DX) has to have a protein skimmer on the front.
<<?>>
In order to have a protein skimmer on the front part of this tank, the feeding flap (lid) has to be up in order to accommodate the height of the protein skimmer (CPR  Backpack).  Fish jumping out of the tank has never happened before (I'm sure you hear that all the time).
<<Likely to happen to all/everyone who stays in the hobby, sooner or later.>>
I will say that I built a Plexiglas cover (rinsed with RO water) to cover the hole when the protein skimmer is running (Hindsight is always 20/20).
<<Indeed...but I also favor letting my tanks "breathe" rather than sealing them up tight.  I would rather see you use something like plastic "eggcrate" to keep in your carpet divers.>>
Also folks who own the JBJ tank should also consider building a wall (Framing Plexiglas  works well) that fills in the space between the light shield and the front filter walls in order prevent fish from landing in the chambers (especially clowns, and especially the mechanical sponge chamber).  Sorry, back to the real reason I'm emailing...
<<No worries mate...>>
I added a new A. ocellaris (Elmer) to the tank to replace the one (Ruby) lost in a filter incident.  Parameters  fine, Salinity fine.
<<Ok>>
Did the Banggai chase the Ocellaris around because he was the new fish on the block, and the Banggai felt his space was threatened?
<<A possibility, but not likely.  P. kaudneri is usually quite tolerant of all but conspecifics, in my experience.>>
Or was the size of the fish (The Banggai High Fin) both threatening space and territory so that the old clown (Emma) reacted aggressive when the new clown (Elmer) was put in the tank, "because she was thinking that the fish just
can't be here"?
<<Seems more likely the clown was the aggressor, yes.>>
The clowns are not fighting anymore and in fact have begun to decide who will be what, most likely the new clown (Elmer) will be the male, and since the Banggai has died the two clowns are swimming around more.  
<<Mmm...perhaps this is best left as a "specie" tank.>>
I'm assuming the clown was not the problem but the Banggai was?
<<Is a possibility, yes...but my money is on the clown...can be downright NASTY...>>
And is the Banggai jumping out of the tank coincidence or was it was because they were fighting due to overcrowding or both?
<<Likely was "chased" out of the tank.>>
I have four fish at this point and time.
2- A. Ocellaris
1- Firefish goby
1- Green banded goby
10- Hermit crabs
1- Brittle Star (Black)
2- Astrea Snails
2- Turbo Snails
5- Black Turbo Snails.
Is there any other small (I've learned my lesson this time) fish that I could put in the water with these species or have I reached Tank Nirvana for now, and can I move on to corals after extensive research.
<<I think you're "full up" on fish in this tank.>>
Thank You so much for all your help.  You folks truly are the voice of the fish, inverts coral etc, and I thank you every day for being that, because my voices sure the hell aren't speaking for the fish a lot of the time.  Thank You, Thank You, Thank You, and happy <<pet>> fishing.
Eric Ross
<<And "Thank You" for the kind words.  Regards, EricR>>