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FAQs about Small Marine System Livestocking 3
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Many small environments are too unstable to support invertebrate
life forms
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Brains in a nano 3/4/06 Dear Anthony, <No longer
with us, unfortunately. Will cc him here> You probably remember my
tank, but I'll refresh your memory anyway. I have a 20gal. nanoreef
with a CPR BakPak with a prefilter, an Aquaclear 200 box filter and 130
watt PC lighting. I have 30-40lbs. <Yikes, and not much water!>
of live rock with a profusion of clams and other filter feeders living
on it. 1 large hairy mushroom ~5", 2 small Discosoma mushrooms ~1",
1 softball sized Lobophyllia, a large colony of daisy polyps that
are spreading rapidly. (I am in the process of fragmenting some of them
and then will sell the fragments on a site like frags.org) and a small
colony of green star polyps ~2.5". About 8 Blueleg hermit crabs, 2
ocellaris clownfish and one yellow-tailed blue damselfish. (I am
keeping an eye on the damsel.) My lobo looks on the overall like it is
doing pretty well. The only thing is that it has a small (about the
size of a nickel) area of recession. It doesn't appear to be getting
worse, but it is not getting better. I have had the lobo for about
3 months now, the recession might have been there since I bought it. If
not then it showed up shortly after I got it. I have noticed that
throughout the day sometimes the lobo will be completely expanded and
then in seemingly no time at all it will be closed and the mouths on it
will be open. In about an hour it will be opened back up and looking
fine. It doesn't do this everyday, maybe once or twice a week. Do you
know why it is doing this and if it means there is something wrong with
it. <Can't tell with the info. provided...> My LFS has been
getting in some variety of what they call green brains. I think
that they are probably Trachyphyllia. They have a flat(ish) middle
section with a heavy ring of tissue around it. (it kind of looks like a
flattened out lobo) I was wondering if it would be possible for me to
have one. <I wouldn't here... your system is too small, crowded>
I don't have any room on the bottom except for one place under my
powerhead that doesn't get much light. I was wondering if it would be
ok to place it on a flat rock about halfway up the 12" tank. I was
also wondering how often I should feed the lobo and hairy mushroom and
if I get it the Trachy. I am currently feeding them about once
weekly, with small pieces of krill or shrimp. (I will probably get
something else to feed them, any recommendations?) Thanks, MDM
<Do take a read, Google on WWM re Lobophyllia/Mussid Disease/Health,
Trachyphyllia Selection. Bob Fenner>
Re: Brains in a nano cont. 3/28/06 Dear Mr. Fenner,
In my last email I sent to the WWM email. I told you about
how I never received a reply when I had sent pictures with the
email. You directed me to send it to your personal email. <Yes,
thank you for this> In a previous email I told you about
my Lobophyllia and some odd behavior. As I said before it I am not
sure if this is just natural or a problem. Other than the odd
behavior and some recession it is doing well. <I see this here>
As I mentioned before with the recession it was there either when
I bought it 4 months ago or shortly afterwards. The recession does
not appear to have gotten much worse, but not better.
Below are pictures of the lobo in it's 3 forms (not really the
right word). When it is in it's extra expanded state, it's
"normal" state (meaning what it looks like most of the time.)
and when it will pull in most of it's tissue. The behavior has no
pattern and varies from day to day. On most days it will look
normal all day, on other days it will go into the pulling in it's
tissue form. It does usually do it in the afternoon and will stay
like that for a few hours. It is rarely in it's extra expanded
state, usually once or twice a week. ( it only stays like that for
a few hours then will usually go into the normal state) The
fluctuations seems entirely unrelated to feeding or water changes
or anything else. Bye the way how often should I feed it? <A
few times a week with meaty foods... Please see here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/mussidfdgfaqs.htm> I was thinking 3
times a week. (Or is that too often.) Order of picture is as
follows: 1. Extra Expanded 2. Recession Extra Expanded (have
moved the rock with red algae on it since picture) 3. Recession
Normal 4. Normal 5. Recession Closed Up 6. Closed Up
7. Full View of Tank. (Daisy Polyps are closed up because I took
the picture in after 8 P.M. just when they like to close up for the
night, not a great picture of the tank either. The flash washed
everything out, but it gives an accurate representation of the
tank.) Thank you for your help and time, (sorry if the pictures
took a long time to load) MDM <Likely this tank is doing
about as well as it can under your good care. The keeping of
multiple species, families, orders of cnidarians in small volumes is
problematical. Put another way, your "margin of error" increases
with increasing system size all else being equal. Bob Fenner> |   |  |
Question about lighting... small SW systems stocking, keeping -
2/28/2006 Hello WWM Crew. <Arielle> I have a 10 gallon
tank with some beloved critters in it: a clownfish, pajama cardinal,
firefish goby, three Christmas worm rocks, a Hawaiian feather
duster, some Zoa frags, and a small bubble tip anemone (which my
clownfish has very happily just discovered). <... not easy to keep
all this in such small confines... and when, not if, something goes
awry, will crash quickly> The tank originally came with a 13" 24W
10000K Blue 50/50 Jebo straight pin bulb set; I tried to find the exact
same bulbs with no luck, and so I purchased a Coralife 50/50 with
Actinic 03 Blue, also 10000K. When I installed the new light, I noticed
immediately the difference in color - my old light was very white
and bright, and this new bulb is very purple and subdued. Although I've
been told that this purple light is supposed to be much more
aesthetically pleasing, I prefer the brighter lights; can you recommend
a good 50/50 brand that would be brighter but equally suitable for my
tank? <... I want to skip ahead and strongly encourage you not to
replace this light, but instead upgrade to a much larger system... at
least forty gallons> I absolutely love the Christmas worms in my
tank; is there some way I can encourage them to grow or reproduce?
<Time, feeding, stability may do it> Do you have recommendations on
the best way to care for them? <Posted... on WWM> Thanks for
your time, Arielle Kim <Please do read re "Nano" or small reef
systems:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm Particularly
set-up, maintenance, stocking... Bob Fenner>
Sea slugs for
nano reef 2/26/06 Hi Adam, <... which one? No
prev. corr.> I have a 20gal. nano reef that you
probably remember, but I'll still give you the inhabitants again. I
have 2 ocellaris clowns, 1 yellow-tailed blue damselfish, 8
Blueleg hermit crabs, 1 large hairy mushroom, 2 small mushrooms
probably Discosoma, 1 Lobophyllia, 1 colony of daisy polyps and a small
colony of star polyps. I am having a little problem with bristleworms,
and hair algae. I was looking on your site for something to deal with
them. For the bristleworms I was thinking of a Philinopsis
gardineri sea slug but I saw that it would eat the bristleworms but
wasn't sure if that is the best way to get rid of them. I already
tried an arrow crab. He was dead in 2 days (I have not had luck
with shrimp or crabs except for Blueleg hermits. I suspect there
may be something living in the rock that eats them) I also didn't see
what to feed it if it runs out of worms. <Best here to bait, trap
and remove these... see WWM re> (I think this is very unlikely). For
hair algae control I was thinking of some kind of sea hare, or
preferably a lettuce nudibranch. <No, not a good idea/choice> I
saw that the nudibranch eats algae but didn't see if it would eat hair
algae. Even if it doesn't I still would like to have one if it would be
compatible with the other inhabitants including a Philinopsis
gardineri. I do have some dried algae that I could feed it on if it
runs out of hair algae (also very unlikely). Also my daisy polyps
seem to be dying off in the front of the colony. I was wondering if
this could be due to bristleworms. <Not likely. Much more possible
is the allelopathy from other cnidarians present> I do see them on
it every night. It is only dying back on the very front, so I am not
sure if it is because of bristleworms. (perhaps it is they are just old
or not receiving adequate light or current.) If the lettuce
nudibranch wouldn't work could you recommend a good sea hare to control
the algae. Would the hermits eat the slugs? Thanks for all of your
help, MDM <... I would use other means of algae control here...
See the Google search tool on WWM, the indices... re Filamentous or Hair
Green Algae. Read. Bob Fenner> Nano Stocking/Inappropriate
Selection/Lack Of Research - 02/19/06 Hi, <<Hello>> I've
set up my first nano reef (16gallon) and have a few questions about
compatibility and stuff. <<Ok>> At the moment I have snake
polyps, glass anemones, and blue mushrooms in my tank with 3x micro blue
hermits and 2x turbo snails (which I need more of), <<If these
are true Mexican Turbo snails, two is plenty for this tank.>> and 1x
Hypselodoris apolegma nudibranch (which I got to control the glass
anemones but knowing my luck it won't touch them). <<Mmm,
no...didn't you research this animal before you purchased
it? Hypselodoris apolegma feeds on sponge, and not just ANY
sponge. From what I can find it prefers Dysidea and
Aplysilla. Unfortunately this specimen is doomed to starvation...an
animal best left in the ocean.>> I am adding a cleaner shrimp today.
<<This won't help with the glass anemones...try a couple Peppermint
Shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni). Though there is no guarantee they will eat
the glass anemones either, they are a better choice than the cleaner
shrimp for this purpose.>> Firstly can I add star polyps and tree
coral with the other specimens? <<Yes>> And I have had some
irritating bristleworm hitchhikers is there any thing that will keep
there numbers minimal? <<Generally, these are beneficial
detritivores. Their numbers are usually self-limiting if you aren't
overfeeding the system.>> And lastly what fish would be considered a
good tank mate with my nudibranch (because I love it lol)? <<A
couple Blue-Green Chromis (Chromis viridis) should be fine.>> In
such a small tank I was thinking of a mandarin and possibly a box cow or
just a box fish although I have taken a liking to the porcupine
puffer but I will have to upgrade the tank one day with that in.
<<NONE of these are suitable fishes for this tank. Please research your
proposed purchases.>> cheers <<Regards, EricR>> The Stock
Exchange (Stocking List) 2/10/06 We are hoping to
have a nice mix of small compatible fish and simple (cleaner crew type)
invertebrates. It is a 37 gallon tank with 50 lbs LR, 100 gallon
capacity protein skimmer, Millennium 3000 power filter & 2 submersible
pumps for water circulation. <Sounds good so far!> We are hoping
to eventually have the following and want to give them the best chance
possible at survival and compatibility: 2 false percula clowns (3")
1 Neon Goby (1/2") 1 Pink & Blue Goby (3") 1 Sailfin, Scooter or
Lawnmower Blenny (4") <If the "Scooter" that you refer to is a
really a Dragonet, please pass on that one for a while, until your tank
is well established. They require copious amounts of small crustaceans
to feed on.> 3 Blue Reef Chromis (2") or 2 Banggai Cardinals (3")
1 Royal Gramma (3") 1 Lemon Peel Pygmy Angel (4") <I'd pass on
this fish in this sized aquarium. It is one of the largest of the
Centropyge angels and can be a behavioural problem in a small tank!>
1 Randalli Pistol Shrimp (1/2") 1-2 Cleaner Shrimp (1") 2 Blue
Legged Hermit Crabs or Hawaiian Zebra Hermits (1/4") 3 Scarlet
hermit crabs (1") 3 Nassarius snails (3/4") That being said we
are wondering 1) whether this list is too many fish for that size tank
and if so what you would remove and 2) in what order would you add them
and how many at a time? <Good questions. I'd probably pass on the
Chromis and the Angel- they require more room than this tank affords,
IMO. I'd go with the Neon Goby, a Sailfin Blenny, 2 Cardinals. Add the
Cardinals first, and then the Goby and the Blenny. Since you're
considering a Pistol Shrimp, I think it would be cool to obtain one of
the small Gobies that reside with the shrimp as part of your display.
Stick to small, peaceful fishes in this tank, stock slowly, and enjoy!>
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated :-) Thanks!!
Stephanie <My pleasure, Stephanie. The entire list would make a
great stocking list for a 75 gallon tank, IMO! You'll do fine with the
fishes that we discussed here, though. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Re: Big dreams for a tiny tank... 02-08-06 But my tank has a UV
sterilizer and a Bak pak skimmer with a 200 watt lighting fixture- would
an Anenome really be a bad idea? <Yes it is still a bad idea. These
items do not increase your water volume or your tank's stability. Travis
Re: Big dreams for a tiny tank... 02-08-06 I cannot afford to
upgrade my tank size. I have spent well over 1000 dollars on this
system and the maintenance fees are about $100 a month. I just want to
know how much soft coral I can hold in my 20 gallon tank if I get rid of
the tang and just have the 2 clownfish and the goby. <The tang really
has no bearing on how much coral you can keep in your tank. Fish are
bioload contributors, corals are not. The limiting factor to your coral
load is space and chemical warfare between inhabitants. Travis>
Small Tank With Big Plans! 1/22/06 Thanks for all you
guys do! <You're quite welcome. We have a great bunch of folks here
at WWM and I'm proud to be associated with this Crew! Scott F. at your
service!> I have a 20gal FOWLR (small I know, will be upgrading to
120-150gal this summer). Tank water parameters are 0's across the board,
temp 79, salinity 1.023. I had two yellow tail damsels that I had added
one at a time (mistake). They seemed to get along, but the bigger one
would occasionally chase the smaller away. Never any damage, just a
chase. However, they both began to spend more and more time hiding and
only came out to feed. I thought this might be because of lack of cover
as I only had about 13lbs of live rock at the time. <Lots of
possible reasons...Your hunch is as good as any.> I added 10lbs of
Hawaiian coral skeleton and saw a little more of the two. Last night I
finally added a Royal Gramma. After acclimating him, my larger damsel
immediately attacked him. After rearranging the decor, the damsel
continued his assault. <All to common with Damsels, unfortunately.>
Needless to say, I had to remove half the rock and net the damsel. I
decided that I could either keep the Damsel or the Gramma and since the
Gramma was so friendly and active, I took the Damsel and gave him to my
LFS. The smaller Damsel and Gramma are getting along great and I have
had no problems. Both are feeding very well. <Good to hear. I have
a lot of personal disdain for Damsels, myself. Pretty to look at, but
they can ruin a lot of otherwise great communities with their aggressive
tendencies.> Now for my question. I was thinking of adding a pair of
either false Percula or True Percula Clowns, I live the personality of
clowns and their responsiveness to human interaction. The only thing am
worried about is over-stocking my small tank and any issues of
aggression. <Valid concerns.> If I don't go with the Clowns,
some kind of Goby or two Chromis. I want something that won't spend all
its time sitting or hiding. Any suggestions? <I really like the
"Canary Wrasse", Halichoeres chrysus. It's a colorful, peaceful, and
interesting fish that usually stays well behaved and attains a
manageable size.> In addition to the Gramma and damsel the tank
contain 8 Trochus snails. Since putting them in they have kept the glass
and rock clean of algae. The sand however still has a brown layer on it.
Will these snails clean the sand? <They are usually found on rocks.
A better choice for helping to keep the sand clean would be the
Nassarius snails.> Also, I'm concerned that I have too many of them
as they keep the tank so clean. <Keep in mind, they are bioload, and
will impact the water chemistry and organic levels in the tank.
Overstocking in a small system is a common error that you obviously know
to avoid, so use your judgment on this one.> In addition one or two
more fish to be added as mentioned above, I would like to add a cleaner
shrimp. Would this be too much and what would you suggest to help with
the algae on the sand? Thanks for your time. Joel <I'd probably
pass on the Cleaner if you're thinking of the Wrasse, as it could become
a tasty snack for the Wrasse at some point! Check out the Nassarius
snails, and possibly some Cerith snails, as mentioned above. Good luck!
Regards, Scott F.>
Re: Overstocked Nano…That was my Opinion
the First Time and Still Is. - 1/6/06 Hi, <Hello
again.> I have only changed the sponges once so far, because they
are full of amphipods and I assume other beneficial biological
filtration bacteria. Should I still change them? <Well it is
true that they have collected beneficial bacteria and are breeding
grounds for micro-fauna, it also collects leftover food and detritus.
When I used to have my cube I would clean out the sponges weekly in R.O.
water. Since yours has been allowed to sit for long there is no doubt
that removing it would cause the tank to become unstable, especially
with this being a nano. However what I would recommend is to remove 1
sponge (I believe there are 3 total, 1 large one, and 2 smaller ones)
every few weeks, replacing them with cured live rock rubble. Utilize
extra/larger water changes and a reduced feeding regime to combat
sub-par water conditions.> To answer your other questions, no I
don't test for phosphates, <I would get a phosphate test kit,
methinks there are some in your source water. Speaking of which, what is
your source water?> I would say the water flow is medium, since
I have some soft corals that sprouted up from the live rock, and the
light bulbs are about 6 months old. <Not new by any means, but still
“acceptable.”> And actually this tank is fine for three seahorses,
<You sound quite sure of yourself there. Is this query a question or a
comment? At any rate it’s still open for debate and opinion, and my
opinion is that your above statement is in error.> seahorse.org
recommends 8 gallons/pair of H. reidi, and they also say that
percula clowns make fine tankmates. <I completely 100% disagree,
especially in your set-up. This tank isn’t big enough for one adult
percula clown let alone 2 in addition to 3 seahorses of any species. And
eventually when those clowns get larger, they will become more defensive
and assertive, especially during eating time…this can, no this WILL,
lead to the demise of your seahorses. Seahorses belong in dedicated
species only tanks. Taking your set-up into consideration makes this
even worse, the design of the nano-cube causes it to accumulate detritus
and thus nutrient problems which give way to algae problems (Sound
familiar) What’s worse nano-cubes don’t run protein skimmers. Seahorses
are sensitive creatures; which demand stable displays, free of any type
tormenting from boisterous tank mates, and anemone fish are quite
boisterous in comparison. I guarantee you that this arrangement is at
best a short-term solution. Let us also keep in mind that smaller
marine systems in general just aren’t casual endeavors, they are prone
quick crashes and instability and require daily diligent care. Adam
J.>
Overstocked Nano and Algae Problems 1/4/06
Hello, <Hi Joe.> I have a 24 gallon NanoCube tank with two
percula clownfish and three seahorses. <Mmm, methinks you need to be
reading up on your sea horses, this tank and the livestock within it as
well, are completely inappropriate for this species, read here:
www.seahorse.org .> The tank has been running for about a year and
everything is going well, except for one thing: Algae. <Some
nutrients to blame I’m guessing, you have quite the heavy load and nanos
are quite unstable and yours doesn’t even include a protein skimmer.>
Red slime algae, hair algae, and tons of other kinds of algae just keep
growing and growing. <What is your water change regime,
do you clean out the sponges in the cube compartments regularly?> I
clean the tank glass everyday with an algae scraper, because if I do
not do this, after about a week the glass becomes so covered you cannot
see through it. Slime algae grows all over the live rock and live
sand. I purchased some hermit crabs and cerith snails to get rid of my
algae problem, but they have done nothing to make it any better
(probably just keep it from getting worse). <Or make it worse my
adding more livestock to the tank.> I do weekly water changes of
10 gallons, <Good.> and my nitrates are >10 so I do not know
what could be sparking the algae growth. <See my above comments.
Also do you test for phosphates, how much water flow do you have? (not
so much I’m guessing with seahorses) Maybe some possible detritus
accumulation? And last question; how old is your light bulb?> Any
suggestions to counter the algae would be very helpful. Thanks,
Joseph Marano <Adam J.> Re: Overstocked Nano…That was my
Opinion the First Time and Still Is. - 1/6/06 Hi,
<Hello again.> I have only changed the sponges once so far, because
they are full of amphipods and I assume other beneficial biological
filtration bacteria. Should I still change them? <Well it is
true that they have collected beneficial bacteria and are breeding
grounds for micro-fauna, it also collects leftover food and detritus.
When I used to have my cube I would clean out the sponges weekly in R.O.
water. Since yours has been allowed to sit for long there is no doubt
that removing it would cause the tank to become unstable, especially
with this being a nano. However what I would recommend is to remove 1
sponge (I believe there are 3 total, 1 large one, and 2 smaller ones)
every few weeks, replacing them with cured live rock rubble. Utilize
extra/larger water changes and a reduced feeding regime to combat
sub-par water conditions.> To answer your other questions, no I
don't test for phosphates, <I would get a phosphate test kit,
methinks there are some in your source water. Speaking of which, what is
your source water?> I would say the water flow is medium, since
I have some soft corals that sprouted up from the live rock, and the
light bulbs are about 6 months old. <Not new by any means, but still
“acceptable.”> And actually this tank is fine for three seahorses,
<You sound quite sure of yourself there. Is this query a question or a
comment? At any rate it’s still open for debate and opinion, and my
opinion is that your above statement is in error.> seahorse.org
recommends 8 gallons/pair of H. reidi, and they also say that
percula clowns make fine tankmates. <I completely 100% disagree,
especially in your set-up. This tank isn’t big enough for one adult
percula clown let alone 2 in addition to 3 seahorses of any species. And
eventually when those clowns get larger, they will become more defensive
and assertive, especially during eating time…this can, no this WILL,
lead to the demise of your seahorses. Seahorses belong in dedicated
species only tanks. Taking your set-up into consideration makes this
even worse, the design of the nano-cube causes it to accumulate detritus
and thus nutrient problems which give way to algae problems (Sound
familiar) What’s worse nano-cubes don’t run protein skimmers. Seahorses
are sensitive creatures; which demand stable displays, free of any type
tormenting from boisterous tank mates, and anemone fish are quite
boisterous in comparison. I guarantee you that this arrangement is at
best a short-term solution. Let us also keep in mind that smaller
marine systems in general just aren’t casual endeavors, they are prone
quick crashes and instability and require daily diligent care. Adam
J.>
Big dreams for a tiny tank... 02-08-06
I am the guy with the 20 gallon tank and power filter w/ skimmer. You
had said that my tank was overstocked and crowded because I have 2
clowns, a hippo tang, and a blenny. If I get rid of the tang to a
friend w/ a larger system, will my tank still be open to more corals and
anemones? <Tangs and anemones are poor choices for a 20 gallon tank.
Tangs need swimming room or will be stressed and anemones require stable
water conditions that are hard to maintain long term in a small volume
of water.> How much soft coral can I put in my tank? <Instead of asking
this question, ask yourself if you can afford to upgrade your tank size
so you can successfully provide for your tank inhabitants. Remember
corals and fish grow, be sure to plan for it. Travis> Thanks
Stress ... SW... too crowded tiny tank 1/26/06 Hi
Crew, <Hi Sam> I have a 10 gallon setup that is about 2 and half
years old. There are two spotted cardinals, a firefish and a royal
Gramma (overcrowded according to the Crew).<Yes> This group has been
together for 9 months so I thought I proved that it is not overcrowded.
The Gramma was the last one in and was smaller than the firefish but
is now full grown. The Gramma opens his mouth and lunges at times but
the other fish seem to be used to it. The cardinals feed at the top
and the Gramma and firefish in the water column. The Gramma may at times
take a shot at food on top but generally seems to be afraid to try.
So the firefish and Gramma are usually where the filter water comes in
and shoots the food from the top into the water below. And at times
the Gramma gets annoyed if the firefish grabs something he thought he
should have and the firefish will then either scoot away or just
turn his tail towards the Gramma. But for the past few days the firefish
is hiding and does not come out even to eat. Did it take 9 months
for the firefish to get stressed out? Any other possible explanations?
<The health of the firefish can have a lot to do with stress. If it's
health is slowly going down the stress level can rise. This could
happen over a long term period. The Gramma is not a good choice for the
other tankmates and firefish fare much better in groups of three or
more. If it were my show, I'd be finding a home for the Gramma. James
(Salty Dog)> Thanks <You're welcome.> |
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