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FAQs about Small Marine System Livestocking 6
Related Articles: Small Marine Systems, Tom
Walsh's Small Reefs, Large
Marine Systems, Fish-Only Marine Set-up, FOWLR/Fish
and Invertebrate Systems, Reef Systems, Coldwater
Systems, Plumbing Marine Systems, Refugiums, Marine Biotope, Marine
Landscaping, Fishwatcher's
Guides,
Related FAQs:
Small Marine System Livestocking 1,
Small Marine System Stocking 2,
Small Marine Stocking 3,
Small Marine Stocking 4,
Small Marine Stocking 5,
Small Marine Stocking 7, Small Marine Stocking 8,
Small Marine Stocking 9 &
Small
Tanks, Small System Lighting, Small
System Filtration, Skimmers for Small Systems, Small
System Maintenance, Small System Disease,
Small Marine Systems 1, Small
Marine Systems 2, Small
Marine Systems 3, Small Marine Systems 4,
Small Marine Systems 5,
Tom
Walsh Systems,
Fish-Only Marine Set-ups, Fish-Only Marine Systems
2, FOWLR/Fish and Invertebrate Systems, Reef
Systems, Coldwater Systems, Large
Systems, Marine System
Plumbing, Biotopic
presentations, Skimmers
for Small Set-ups,
Even small initially and eventually
wrasse species need larger volumes to be happy, live... |

Halichoeres chloropterus (Bloch 1791), the Pastel Green Wrasse. |
Clown fish how soon 6/4/07
Hi, I have clown fish in a 10 gallon tank with a cleaner shrimp. and wanted
to know if I could put it in my new 30 gallon tank I ran it for 4 days and on
5th day put in my 3 stripe damsel.
<... may be troubles with these two here in such a small volume>
Is to soon to put my clown fish and cleaner shrimp in yet. And also is it to
soon to put a baby clown trigger.
<No...>
I know this tank is not that big but I will be getting a 125 gallon tank soon.
<Then wait till you have this system up and going>
And don't know when my LFS will be getting baby clown triggers in again.
Thank you
<Read my friend... on WWM, elsewhere re these species needs, compatibility. And
run your messages through your grammar checker before sending to us. Bob Fenner>
Questions regarding nano reef (5.5g AGA): lighting and compatibility.
Small Tank With Big Plans 5/25/07
Dear Crew,
<Scott F. your Crew member tonight!>
I'm not sure who will be the one reading this letter, but thanks in advance to
that helpful person! I have a few questions; any help would be greatly
appreciated. My system is
an AGA 5.5g nano reef. I would like to keep the following:
- Mushrooms galore
- Purple cap (and similar corals)
- Pulsing Xenia
- Finger Leather
- Yellow Polyps
- Various zoanthids
- Dwarf Seahorses (couple)
- Peppermint Shrimp
- Scarlet Leg Hermit Crabs
<In my humble opinion, this is too many corals of too many different types in
too small a body of water. You'll have long term problems with chemical
interactions between the various corals, particularly the Finger Leather and the
Montipora (I assume that's what you mean by "Purple Cap"). In a system this
small, I'd limit myself to one or two corals. Zoanthids would be a nice choice,
because you could get a few different color varieties in this small space. Or,
the best choice would simply be Xenia. They add movement, interest, and grow
rapidly.>
After doing extensive research, I confirmed that all of the animals I picked are
compatible with dwarf seahorses (except Zoanthids, of which I am unsure).
<I am not aware of any danger they would pose to the Seahorses. Although the
crabs are generally inoffensive, they can stomp on and irritate your corals. If
your dealer or other source for these crabs mis-identifies the species of crab,
you could end up with a potentially dangerous one...Just something to think
about when considering keeping crabs with Seahorses.>
Formerly I wanted to keep a blue clam, but after reading through
the FAQs, I found that the clams are best left for larger aquaria. Some people
also said that Linckia Sea Star (Blue) also need larger aquaria to survive, but
I would like to get expert advice from you regarding that matter.
<Avoid the Linckia at all costs! They typically require large, long-established
systems with large areas on which to feed on detritus, etc. A small system will
simply not provide the necessary food sources for the sustainable husbandry of
these creatures.>
My second question pertains to lighting. I searched for days for
appropriate lighting for an AGA 5.5g. While I love DIY projects, I've got two
DIY projects queued, not to mention studying for GRE's and what not, so this is
a bad time for another DIY. Would the 20" 1x28W Coralife Aqualight hood w/
50/50 be a good choice, or do you suppose I must go with higher intensity
lighting (e.g., the 96W variant of the Coralife Aqualight)?
<Depending upon the photosynthetic animals that you'll be keeping, this could
vary widely. For versatility, I'd probably opt for the 96 watt system.>
(Since the AGA 5.5g tank measures 16 inches long, there are not many lights that
can neatly fit that are also appropriate for a nano reef.) At first, I wondered
if it would be a good approach to get the 96W simply as a precaution in the
event of an upgrade to say, a 10g tank. In that light, would it be a wise
maneuver?
<As above, I'd also opt for the higher wattage light. However, there are more
and more small lighting systems coming to market all the time as "nano reefs"
gain in popularity. Do check some of the e-tailers out there for what's new in
nano lighting systems.>
Again, thank you very much.
Faithfully Yours,
Jason C. Wang
<Good luck, Jason! Hope your system is very successful! Regards, ScottF.>
Turbos in a Picotope 5/24/07
Hello, I've asked a few questions before and they have all been answered
very quickly and completely.
<Glad to hear!>
So thanks.
<Welcome!>
I have 2 Turbos and 2 hermits in a 3-gallon Picotope. Questions are the Turbos
and hermits have been working over time to rid the tank of unwanted hair and
other algae. And doing an excellent job.
Are these cuc <???> going to consume their food source?
<Hermits are generally scavengers and typically aren't too picky. The Turbos
will need sufficient microalgae to survive. I would not add any Turbos to your
current setup.>
I would like to get a cleaner shrimp or coral banded also, just want to know if
they will have enough to eat.
<The shrimp will not compete with the Turbos for food. Food and your water
quality will likely be more of an issue in such a small system.>
Pico will eventually have mush,<mushrooms and mush?> polyp and other soft
corals,
<Various Cnidarians in such a small system will likely cause problems with
allelopathy. Please research each coral's potential for chemical warfare before
placing in your Picotope. "Aquarium Corals", a book by Eric Borneman, is an
excellent resource you might consider employing.>
Thanks again Joe
<Welcome! Mich>
NMA Books/stocking 20L nano-reef 5/16/07
Hi all,
<Alex>
First - I really enjoyed the RI book - when is the sequel due out?
<Indeterminate... JasonC is working on the two fish books/volumes... but don't
know at this point... maybe later this year>
Secondly - I'm trying to settle on fish for my upcoming 20L ("L" for long, not
liter) nano-reef (with 10 gal refugium). I would like to have a group of very
small fish, and am liking the idea of a group of conspecific gobies. I
understand that this will work with Elacatinus sp -
<Mmm, maybe... really only with very closely related ones... best from the same
"batch", tank-raised... see your dealer re ordering from an outfit that produces
these if this is the route you're going>
what about Stonogobiops, e.g. yasha or nematodes?
<Can be done... in pairs here>
Also, for the latter and for shrimp gobies in general, how necessary is the
shrimp commensalism to their happiness in captivity?
<Not... though makes for far more interesting behavior, viewing>
Will they thrive without a shrimp if all other parameters are OK?
<Yes>
I am thinking to avoid Gobiodon clown gobies as I would like to grow some SPS
frags and they can apparently be hard on such.
<Yes... and each other with crowding...>
Also, I would like to have one small "active" fish to complement the more
demersal/passive behavior of the gobies. My thinking is leaning toward one of
the smallest of the Flasher or Fairy wrasses (e.g. P. carpenteri or C.
filamentosus), or possibly a six-line,
<Mmm, no... not enough room here>
but am wondering whether this would be too large/active a tankmate for the
gobies, and whether a lone male Flasher would look good, or if they only color
up/display in the presence of conspecific females?
<This latter really>
Other possibilities for my "active fish" would be a small Basslet (Gramma
brasiliensis? Or a Swissguard or Candy Basslet? Blue Assessor?).
<Again... really too small a volume for these>
Really don't want Nemo (or any other damselfishes), and am cool at best to
firefish (would love to have other Dartfishes if I had a larger tank, but I
don't).
<Correct>
Thoughts on the above and other suggestions welcome!
Thanks in advance
Alex
<Mmm, have you read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/smmarsysstkgfaqs.htm
and the series linked above? Have you seen Scott Michael's "Reef Fishes" pocket
guide book? Bob Fenner>
Re: New hobbyist to marine aquariums - 5/18/07
Thanks for your reply. We only have a 58 litre tank (15 US gallons) and
can only have about 4 fish altogether so need them to get on.
<Mmm, four very easygoing fishes perhaps... the ones you have are not...>
We have had an Anenome appear on the rock and also a spaghetti worm as well
as a snail and we have bought a hermit crab.
<...>
We currently only have the two fish an ocellaris clownfish and presumed
Dottyback? We should have asked at the shop about the species but as we are
novices and the shop knew this, we thought we were buying compatible fish
and with all of the excitement (2 very eager children) didn't write it down
- I can't find it in the books either!.
<I'd go back to the shop and ask...>
Looking through the book I have it does show that Dottybacks are compatible
with clownfish
<Some species... but not in small volumes...>
and that they can both be mildly aggressive. I was hoping you may the best
next step for us.
<Me?>
Would it be OK for us to introduce another ocellaris clownfish now?
<... no my friend... your system is too small...>
I had read that you needed to buy them together if they were to be pairs,
otherwise you shouldn't mix more than one of each species in a tank? Any
help would be of value.
PS: We have tried to photo the blue fish but it won't stay still long
enough!
<Do make a trip to the local library... check out and read a recently
published book on Marine Aquarium keeping... spend some time reading...
You're setting yourself up for failure with the present slipshod approach to
the hobby... Bob Fenner>
Re: Compatibility question for new marine setup - 5/18/07
Thank you so much for the prompt reply, and Mr. Fenner, let me say your
book is far and away my favorite of all the books I have read on the subject
of marine fishkeeping!
<Am glad you have benefited from its perusal>
Ok, I will stay away from the clown goby, although I will admit I am a bit
sad as everything I have read says they are wonderful fish with great
personalities.
<As stated, live on, within SPS colonies... on which they derive
nutrition... Not actually/generally easily kept>
But I would hate for the little guy to be unhappy since we are not
planning on having corals, or to be tormented by the bi-color
blenny. "Sigh..."
<Yes>
But in that case, I would like to add some yellow to our tank, so instead of
the bi-color blenny, what about either the midas blenny (I like that he will
swim around and not stay hidden all the time) or the Canary Lyretail Blenny?
<A good choice>
Again, the biggest questions being would either be a good choice for a
novice aquarist like myself, be compatible with the hex aquarium and other
tankmates (the blackcap Basslet, a pair of ocellaris clownfish, and a flame
angel)?
<This tank is a bit small for a Loricula... but the others will likely go,
be fine... and there are MANY other choices...>
Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I can imagine the number
of questions you get
<A few dozen a day...>
and how busy you must be, but I greatly appreciate your input and
advice. Nothing I would like more than to prevent any newbie mistakes that
could result in harm the life I am so looking forward to keeping.
Jamie
<Am happy to co-conspire with you... You're doing fine. Bob Fenner>
Nano-Reef Stocking 5/15/07
Hey Crew,
<Hello.>
I have a ten gal. nano with a small yellow clown goby, and four dwarf seahorses.
<Too much and wrong type of livestock for this type of tank.>
If I were to add a chalk Basslet, would I be over crowding the tank?
<Already 'tis my friend.>
Also, does the amount of bio-filtration (macroalgae, live rock etc. .) reduce
the needed frequency for water changes?
<Mmm, not in your case, you'll be needing' at least 20% weekly or bi-weekly on
this tank.>
I don't really have a problem with water changes, but it just seems a shame to
waste more water than I need to. guess I'm in the wrong hobby) :)
<Please see our nano articles on the main site.>
Thanks!
<Welcome.>
Amanda
<Adam J.>
BTA, Entacmaea quadricolor in a Nano Tank – 5/8/07
Hello Crew,
<Hi Matt, Brenda here>
Throughout this past year I have relied heavily on your FAQ’s to obtain
knowledge in proper husbandry.
<Great! Happy to hear you find it helpful.>
This particular is regarding a new setup with a 24G JBJ Nano Cube. I have used
“cured” rock from my 200 gallon reef of over a year, along with water from the
same tank to quickly cycle the new Nano Cube.
<Did you transfer any of the sand? An established sand bed is important.>
My Nano setup is: 150 watt Viper Light, Remora Protein Skimmer, Koralia
Powerhead, 35 Lbs Live Rock, JBJ Auto Top off, Milwaukee Ph Monitor and so on.
My question is this, with careful weekly water changes and diligent checking of
water parameters, is it possible to have several 2-3 rose anemones in this
species only tank?
<It is possible, but I don’t recommend it. Water quality can go down hill fast
in smaller tanks. One anemone can quickly out grow a tank of that size. Also,
a powerhead can be deadly to an anemone.>
Also, what is the proper temperature to maintain such creatures? I am hovering
around 77-78 right now.
<79 – 81>
I would appreciate any input as I value your experience highly.
Thanks, Matt
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Oceanic 29 Gallon Bio Cube. Euph/(frogspawn) in Nano Reef? –
05/08/07
Hi crew.
<Hi.>
Before I get to the question I just want to say how helpful the site is.
<Go on……………>
VERY!!!
<Great; thanks!>
Anyways I would just like to know if you think that the Oceanic 29 Bio Cube has
lights powerful enough to keep a frogspawn coral healthy and happy?
<Tis’ borderline. Not only the lighting but the size of the aquarium will make
it difficult to keep the chemistry stable for this animal. But it is doable.>
It comes with 2 36w pc's.
<I would make sure both are 10,000k bulbs and replace them every 6 to 9 months
as PC’s depreciate in lumens at an alarming rate in comparison of other types of
lighting.>
If it is not, I heard of this website called nanocustoms.com where they mod
nanosystems. I just want to know what you think of this site,
<Am familiar with it. Have not used it personally, though I know many who have
and have been very satisfied. Can’t give you a personal opinion really as I have
nothing to base it off of. Having said that modding the original set-up may void
the warranty. And I believe, though I am not sure, that nanocustoms gets around
this by offering their own warranty. At the least it is something you should
look into.>
if you've heard of it and would 4 36w pc's be enough?
<Yes but then there are heating issues to be concerned about.>
Also they have a skimmer on that site that fits into the back of the Bio Cube
made by Sapphire which I never heard of, do you know if it is a good quality or
not?
<No am not familiar with it either, though any skimmer is better than none….to
many nano-‘ers go skimmer-less. Read this to;
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm .>
Just looking for your input.
<^^ There it is.>
Thank you.
<Welcome, Adam J.>
Compatibility for 25 gal tank – 04/30/07
Hi there,
<Howdy>
I have a question regarding compatibility of fish, corals and invertebrate. I
started 25 gal saltwater tank with 25 lbs of live rocks , hang on filter and
Fission Nano Skimmer. Temperature, PH and salinity are perfect. Its been
running like that for three weeks now . I put Javanese Damsel and couple of
Nassarius snails after two weeks of running and started the protein skimmer at
the same time. Fish and snails are doing fine even though the Nitrite level has
been rising by third week. My question is ; what kind of fish , corals and
invertebrates should I put to match with the Javanese Damsel after my tank
cycles?
<... a wide selection...>
I saw the list of Fish that would do good in Nano reef but I don't like most
of them , except Clownfish. The kinds of Fish I was thinking about were;
Clownfish, Damsel, Few different types of Chromis,
Spotted or Banggai Cardinals (or both) , Dwarf Angel ,
<Maybe a "dwarf dwarf"... covered on WWM>
Clown or Rainfordi goby (or both). Also wanted to put some Zoos , Mushroom
Corals and tiny Starfish and few different kind of Snails. Please advise
which of them from my choice list I can put in there after the time is right
without crowding. Also how many fish I can put in the 25 gal reef tank ?
<About three to four cubic inches...>
Can I put two different kinds of Clownfish ?
<No...>
Or two of same kind of Clownfish? How about two different types of Damsel or two
of the same Damsel ? Your insight would be highly appreciated.
Sincerely,
VICTOR
<All of this is covered on WWM... give a go at the indices, search tool, looking
up the groups, species you list... Re their Systems, Compatibility... Bob
Fenner>
Nano Compatibility 4/25/07
Hi Crew,
<Hello>
I have a 10 gallon with a clown goby (3 years), a spotted cardinal (3 years), a
royal Gramma (2 years) and a pair of neon gobies(1 year). <Seems like a lot of
fish to me.> When I got the Gramma he was about half the size he is now. I think
he would be better off in a larger tank and I would like to replace him with a
fire fish. <I definitely think he would be better off in a bigger tank, but I
would not replace him.> And he bullies the cardinal. <Yep, they do that.> Is
there any reason to think the firefish and Neons would not get along? <Probably,
but in such a small area all bets are off.> Also what is the life expectancy of
the Gramma. <10 to 15 years probably, although few live that long.> I couldn't
sell him if he can not be expected to live much longer. <Most marine fish are
very long lived when properly house.>
Thanks
<Welcome>
<Chris>
29 gallon cleanup crew 4/25/07
Good Evening! I have a question regarding a suitable clean up crew for my 29
gallon setup. Everywhere i go seems to have their own package of different
animals. I'll explain my setup and if you don't mind, could you tell me what
would be an ideal clean up crew. Current inhabitants include 1 ocellaris clown,
1 scooter blenny, 1 rock flower anemone,
<Not a good animal to mix with the other Cnidarian Classes...>
1 green Ricordea, couple of red mushroom polyps, 1 small colony of blue zoos, 3
small giant sun polyps, and 1 sally lightfoot. After further reading, I'm
finding out the sally may not be such a good idea... I'll keep a close watch. My
sand bed is CaribSea aragonite 1 1/2 inches deep. The only other animals I'm
likely to ever put in this tank are some more corallimorphs and the like.
<Again... this mix is a disaster waiting to happen...>
I do have a small hair algae problem. Thank you very much in advance for any
info you can provide. I'm grateful that there are people like you guys who help
guys like me so much. Have a good evening
Jacob
<...? Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marscavart.htm
and the linked files above... and on WWM re Cnidarian Compatibility... Per our
instructions, learn to/use the indices, search tool before writing us. Bob
Fenner>
Stocking question, small reef, and FYI, re: der. of Yasha haze...
4/24/07
Hello Crew,
<Eric>
Long time reader, first time writer here. (Actually, I wrote about a week ago
and didn't receive a response, so I'm trying again.)
<Good>
I have a 7 gallon (5 gallons of water) tank (30cm x 30cm x 30cm) with a little
under 3kg of live rock, a Stonogobiops yasha and an Alpheus randalli.
Lighting is 40W of compact fluorescent. All filtration is biological via the
live rock, and I have a power head and a hang-on filter with the media removed
which combine to circulate the water 25 times per hour. Ammonia and nitrite
are at zero and nitrate is at 5ppm. SG is 1.024 and pH is steady at
8.3. Alkalinity is at 4 meq/l. (All data is from Red Sea tests.)
Can you recommend a second fish that will be comfortable in this size tank?
<Some of the very small, easygoing Pomacentrids, Apogonids, Blennioids,
Gobioids... many possibilities>
The aquarium stores I've visited here in Japan have made all sorts of
suggestions, but I'm pretty doubtful about all of them. I'd really like to find
a compatible fish to add, preferably one that is a free swimmer, because the
tank seems lonely with the goby and shrimp hiding almost all of the time.
Also, FYI, I see lots of different spellings, variations on the common name for
Stonogobiops yasha, and I thought you might be interested to know that the
fish's common name in Japanese is "yasha haze" "Haze" is pronounced "hah-zeh"
and means goby, so the term "yasha haze goby"@is actually redundant. "Yasha"
is a female demonic warrior deity, and I assume that the goby gets this name
from its bright red stripes and spiky dorsal fin.
<Thank you for this>
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Yours,
Eric Anderson
Zushi, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan
<Bob Fenner, Holualoa, Big Island, Hawaii>
Re: stocking question and FYI 4/25/07
Mr. Fenner (or which ever member of the Crew can respond),
<Eric>
Thank you very much for your guidance. Of the genera you mentioned, I am most
interested in the Pomacentrids. After a quick check of the area LFS's, I found
that the only member of the genus immediately available is Pomacentrus alleni.
<Is a very good choice... as might be some of the small/er Chrysiptera...
Talbot's, C. taupou...>
My wife and I both think the fish is very attractive and would like to move
forward, but I thought it best to check back with you once more to confirm that
this is a suitable choice. The FAQs on WWM regarding this species seem to
indicate that this is a less aggressive member of the genus, but also that it
often does best when kept alone.
<Yes>
In your opinion, will it and my yasha goby get along? I also found references on
the Web stating that the minimum tank requirement for Pomacentrus alleni is 30
gallons, although I also found examples of people keeping them successfully in
nano tanks. Should I be concerned about this?
<I do give you very good odds here>
I apologize for taking up so much of your time. Once again, many thanks for
providing such a useful resource!
Regards,
Eric Anderson
<Doh tashi mashiite my friend. Bob Fenner>
P.S. If this message does get to Mr. Fenner, I hope you had a safe trip back to
the mainland! Also, do you ever come to Japan for speaking engagements?
My wife and I would love to attend.
<Mmm, haven't been to Japan for more than transiting for years... and never to
make presentations other than on Nishikigoi, pond issues... Doomo. Bob Fenner>
10 Gallon Marine Nano, Much Reading Needed – 04/16/07
Hello Mr. Fenner,
<Sorry to disappoint...this is Adam J filling in for Bob F.>
I have had fish for a while with success and I want to start a 10 gallon fish
only tank.
<Does not leave you with very many options, livestock wise in a marine tank.>
I was thinking of starting with just a regular 10 gallon setup, with a Skilter
400, and a powerhead for filtration.
<Mmm...Skilters are convenient but unfortunately not very effective in most
circumstances, I would opt. for either a hang on refugium or protein
skimmer...maybe both if you can fit them.>
I'm thinking of either having 1) one Dwarf Zebra Lionfish,
<Far too large for this aquarium.>
or 2) One Pygmy Angelfish.
<Also too large...>
I was just going to use lava rock or Texas Holey rock for hiding/sleeping
places. Thanks for your time/suggestions.
<See this article regarding nano marine aquaria:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm .
Read this and more....do as much research as possible, nano tanks are not easy
not for the faint of heart, they are a roller coaster as far as maintenance and
stability go.> <<Well-stated. RMF>>
Thanks
<Adam J.>
Overcrowding, Disaster In The Making 4/16/07
I have received a 18 gal reef tank from a friend. I have it setup
for about half a year now. Since I got it, it now has Watchman Goby,
Blue Damsel, Okanabie Goby, Yellow/Blue Angel, and Tomato Clown. I know
it sounds like a lot of fish,
<Doesn't sound like, but is a lot of fish for a 18 gallon
tank. Disaster is in your future. For one, the Tomato Clown will
become very aggressive, especially in that small a tank, and with the
fact that they do grow relatively fast. The pygmy angel angel requires
more room/territory also.>
but they have been doing fine.
<So far>
They all are also fairly small fish. I feed them all brine shrimp every
night.
<Brine shrimp alone is not a good diet. Do search/read our site on
feeding.>
My water tests come back perfect. I only have a protein skimmer and a
powerhead, does the job great. I now bought a Bubbletip Anemone for the
clown fish.
<Oboy, not enough room for this guy either and with a very good chance
other fish may be stung.>
It parked itself for now and is doing good. I feed it 2 krill every
three days. Is that enough?
<Once a week would be plenty.>
I also have some mushrooms, urchin, cleaner shrimp, feather duster, l
Leather Coral, Torch Coral, Yellow Polyps, small snail and some small
hermit crabs. I run 2-36w CoralLife, one blue and one white. I know I am
maxed out. Please give me some comments on my setup.
<Although your tank looks good now, problems are on the way. As they
grow, nutrient levels will go up faster than a skimmer can remove
them. This will more than likely lead to nuisance algae problems, fish
death, and other maladies. My suggestion would be to find a home for
the Tomato Clown, pygmy angel, and the anemone. Your tank is too small
to support these animals properly. The Torch Coral can/will be another
problem in your small tank. They are capable of generating long sweeper
tentacles that can damage/kill other corals they come in contact with.>
Thank you.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Artie
Attached are pictures. |
Re: Overcrowding, Disaster In The Making
4/16/07
Every time I went to my LFS I told them the fish I had and they said I
I'll be fine. I don't understand why they would do that.
<Sounds to me like they are more interested in sales.>
I will within a year be investing into a 200+ gal in wall tank setup.
Hopeful everything will survive till then. I also forgot to mention I do
feed them mysis every other day.
<Good, but should have a more varied diet than that. Consider
occasionally soaking the food in Zoe or Selcon. Does much toward the
health of the animals. In future queries, do cap your "i's" and proper
nouns please. As volunteers, we do not have much time per day to answer
queries, and editing before posting, just shortens the amount of queries
we can answer per day.>
Thank you for your input.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> |
|
.jpg) |
BTA in Nano Tank? 4/11/07
Hello crew
<Hi.>
Tyler Kohring today
<Adam Jackson on this end.>
I have a 24 gal. reef tank which has had is ups and downs.
<Nanos tend to do that...fickle creatures they are.>
Now it is finally back to normal.
<Good.>
Anyway I wanted clownfish for a while, but I didn't like the normal perculas so
I decided to get two black Australian perculas. * very cool fish *
<Especially the tank-reared versions.>
I have not had them long but they are doing good, one is slightly larger.
<Normal.>
they seem to have paired up and I want to give them a anemone.
I had a bubble tip anemone on mind. Do you think this is a good choice if not
can you suggest one?
<Well first I think it is important to mention that clowns in captivity do not
need anemones in any sort of way to be happy. In fact most people who breed the
animals on a large scale do not use anemones...in fact I don't know one
commercial breeder who uses them. If you do get an anemone it is strictly for
your enjoyment...the clowns don't care. Anemones is general are not easy to
maintain in captive aquaria, most don't live a year in captivity. Out of all of
the choices, E. quadricolor, the BTA is probably the best choice, but that's not
to say they are easy by any means. If you do get one, your best bet is to go
for a captive reared specimen. I'll end by saying I do not personally
recommend
it. I do not like to see anemones placed in nano aquaria, as you've mentioned
they have their ups and downs and anemones appreciate very stable environments
with low nutrient levels. Be sure to so all your research and read the
articles/FAQ's placed on WWM.>
Tank is four months old tank mates: bicolor blenny, Australian perculas, fire
fish, Rainford goby, and six line wrasse.
<Tank is a bit overstocked for my liking...being a nano and all.>
Thanks for the help,
<Anytime.>
Tyler Kohring
<Adam Jackson.>
Ich on corals? Cnid. allelopathy, esp. dangerous in smaller vol.s
3/28/07
Hi guys! I'm hoping you can help me out of what I'm afraid might be my 1st
experience with Ich (or marine velvet). I have a 24g Nano with MH lights,
temp=80, spg 1.025, ph=8.3-8.4 (depending on am or pm measure), calcium=450,
nitrites, nitrates and am=0. I do 3g H2O changes weekly. We have 2 true percs,
a royal Gramma, 2 peppermint shrimp, assorted snails and hermit crabs. Corals
include Blasto, assorted mushrooms, zoas, sun coral (my favorite), toadstool and
Palys.
<Yikes... trouble with all these disparate Cnidarians down the road... with
growth... do settle on not adding any more species... and DO be diligent re
maintenance>
I noticed white spots on our palys 4 days ago, and they have gotten worse. I
removed and gave to a friend to put in his hospital tank (I am getting one
tomorrow!).
<Good moves!>
Now I noticed that the Gramma is looking beat up. and scratching itself on the
live rock. He's not breathing heavy, though. I think I see 2 pinhead white spots
on the fin of 1 of the percs. I plan to take all 3 fish and put in hospital tank
as soon as I have it set up, but I'm wondering if the corals are at risk of this
parasite, since it seemed to start on the palys.
<Mmm, not likely a parasite... of any of them... But very likely a matter of the
fishes being exposed to types of chemical warfare twixt the stinging-celled
life... "Caught in the cross-fire" so to speak">
I have had them for 1 mo already. I just don't want to treat the fish, and wind
up with all the corals getting this white stuff too! Please advise! Thank
you!!
-Debbie
<Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompfaqs.htm
And the linked files above... Perhaps my write-up on Tom Walsh's small systems
from years back... The "Garden Mix" of Zoanthids, Scleractinians et al. you list
is possible, though not really practical in small volumes... these sessile
animals species have varying, but highly effective strategies for "saving
space", hogging light, gathering food exclusively to themselves... These potent
stinging, poisoning, over-growing mechanisms easily play havoc in small captive
systems... As you are experiencing. There are a few strategies for limiting the
morbidity and mortality here... Read on. Bob Fenner>
Re: Ich on corals? Bambi vs. Godzilla short parody/explanation
3/29/07
As always, thank you for the prompt reply! You guys are wonderful!! Just so
I understand correctly what "next steps" to take, if the likely culprit is
chemical warfare rather than a parasite, would the best course of action be to
relocate some of the corals into a separate tank, rather than placing the 3 fish
in a hospital tank and treating with copper, etc.?
<... please read where you were referred to>
I do think the hospital tank approach may be premature,
<Agreed>
as none of the fish appear to have breathing difficulty or white spots -- only
the Gramma is scratching on the rocks very frequently, and seems unhappy. If a
larger and separate tank is what you suggest for separating the corals, which of
the following corals would get along best together? (red & green mushrooms,
green and blue hairy mushrooms, button polyp frag, zoas, xenia, toadstool
leather, sun coral). Please note that I have looked for a Compatability chart
for specific corals,
<Good point... As far as I'm aware there is none that is comprehensive... too
much of "this goes with that, but not with this other" factual matter to
graphically present>
and I just seem to get general information about keeping 6-10" spacing, etc.
<Is a good idea... as is starting with small specimens, colonies, the less
noxious/stinging first... Additionally, frequent, partial water changes, use of
chemical filtrants... diligence in cleaning/operation of your skimmer...>
The reason I am so confused is that many reef tanks I've seen appear to have
many different corals living together in close proximity.
<All a matter of balance, time going by, and all potential trouble/time bombs...
as in the wild, what appears to many folks, or as so pastorally "painted" as
calm, serene cohabitation is in actuality an extremely aggressive world of
chemical and physical warfare, kept in check (but not static by any measure) by
dilution of water currents, predation, meteorological events...>
I love the look of a reef "garden" with lots of colors, but I'm not sure how to
avoid the chemical warfare issue. :-( I greatly appreciate any advise you may
have!
Thanks,
Debbie
<Much, MUCH that should be written on this overall topic... Perhaps a good deal
by you... And much to tie-in with promoting biotopic presentations, careful
organism selection, placement.... Bob Fenner>
29 gallon saltwater... stocking 3/28/07
Hello!
<Katharine>
I've had my 29 gallon tank set up for saltwater for about a month now. I've got
4 lbs. of live rock growing some coralline algae in there. The filtration
consists of a 30 gallon hang off the back bio wheel filter, with a sponge, some
"bio balls" and a "Purigen" bag. I've just added two Green Chromis, and I want
to add an Ocellaris Clown pair soon.
<Mmm... these should get along... but the Chromis are more social... like to
live in larger settings, in greater numbers>
I want to set up a refugium, but I'm having problems fitting anything large
enough to work under my aquarium. I know there are hang off the back refugiums,
but I'd rather have it under the tank. My question is, what else can I put in
this small of a tank safely? Thank you!
Katharine
<Heeeeee! The list is indeed long... likely some of the smaller gobies, blennies
would be good bets... Please see WWM re. Particularly:
http://wetwebmedia.com/smmarsysstkgfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Stocking a 14G Nano 3/27/07
I've been helping my g/f with her tank for about 2 years now. I just got my
own and it has cycled...now the fun part.
<Let the fun begin.>
I have been thinking about my stock list and I would like to add to the 14
gallon eventually not all at once)
<Doesn't give you much to work with, 1 hardy fish tops.>
1 - Randall's Goby <Ok>
1 - Candy/Randall's Pistol Shrimp
1 - Longnose Filefish (Oxymonacanthus longirostris) - I am aware of his eating
habits and have a few ?s later on
<Not appropriate for aquariums in general, especially a small one.>
3-5 - Sexy Shrimp
1-2 - PomPom Crabs <May compete with the Harlequin if hungry enough.>
1-2 - Harlequin Shrimp <Lots of work to deliver the appropriate food.>
Now the slew of questions.
Biggest concern - excluding all special diets, will the tank be overcrowded if I
have enough LR caverns (with a starfish added for the harlequin)? What numbers
would you shoot for per species?
<Less is more, you are probably working with maybe 8-10 gallons when LR and sand
are included. The Goby and shrimp are enough in my opinion.>
How much of a cleanup crew would I need with all of those shrimp + crabs? I
was thinking a few snails to keep the glass tidy but suggestions are welcome.
<1-2 snails, maybe 1-2 smaller hermits.>
My last question concerns the filefish. My LFS owner had one in his personal
tank and he said it ate zoos as well as SPS. Is it common for them to eat
zoanthids? <In the wild they eat Acros almost exclusively.> Which SPS do they
favor (Monti, Acro, Acan?) and how quickly will they decimate the colony? <Most
don't live long enough for this to be a problem, but fairly quick.> My tank is
the Oceanic 14g so the lighting might be alright for the Monti for the month or
so that the filefish will peck at it, but I wouldn't want any Acros to die under
sub par lighting :(
<Really not appropriate for captivity, but the Acros would die to the fish
eventually anyways. Skip this guy.>
Thanks as always,
<Welcome>
Dan Janes
<Chris>
Contaminated equipment... SW... 3/19/07
Hi there,
<Hello, Brandon here.>
I'm been running a 6G nano for about a year now, recently (2 months ago) I
started using an old heater/pump in a plastic bucket to heat and aerate RO water
for a 2L bi-weekly water change.
<This is a good idea.>
I lost a snail last month and today it seems another has bitten the dust.
<I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but they most likely starved to
death. Most people recommend 1 snail per 10 gallons. Keeping two in this tank
likely extinguished their food supply, or took it down to negligible
levels. Think about it like this, if I gave you one chicken nugget a day, you
are still eating right? But eventually you will starve to death. Same thing
with the snails. While it is true that they need algae to live, they need a
specific amount per day, if they cannot get this they will slowly starve.>
The parameters are: Nitrate 15ppm, Amm 0, Nitrite 0, Ph 8.1, Sal 1.025, Temp
26c, Alk 2.7 and have been stable.
<The Nitrate is a little high. Would be better if it was under 10 ppm. I will
assume that your Alk is 2.7 mg/L since you did not say. This translates out to
7.8 dKH. This is low. Ideally you want to shoot for 10-12 dKH, or about
4mg/L. This will give you a more stable pH.>
If the old heater/pump was used in a freshwater tank with a copper based
treatment would the copper possibly be getting in the water it is
aerating/heating?
<Anything is possible, but if there were copper in the water, the crustaceans
that you mention below would likely be doing extremely poorly, or dead. All
crustaceans are extremely sensitive to copper.>
The Zoanthids in the tank are also retracted, hermits and shrimps seem fine.
<This is most likely due to the NO3 levels. Try cleaning out your filters once
a week, and see if this solves the NO3 problem.>
All the best
<Good luck to you. Brandon.>
Luke
Nano stocking question ) 3/14/07
Hey all,
<Hi there Darby! Mich here.>
Seems every week or two, I have another question, invariably due to some
misadventure.... This time, it goes like this:
I have a NanoCube 24. Last week, its' residents were a Yellow Tail Damsel,
some small hermit crabs, a few snails, 4 different kinds of Button polyps, and
two different sizes and colors of Star polyps. I have also been running a 7
gal. refugium to culture copepods for a friends Mandarin.
<What a nice friend!>
Over the weekend, the afore mentioned friend awoke to find his tank cracked
and leaking, possibly due to his dogs knocking a chair into it while playing in
the night.
<Yikes!>
He promptly bagged up his fish (the Psychedelic and a Royal Gramma), and awoke
me, handed me the fish, and left. His parting words were "I won't be mad if
they don't survive, they haven't been eating anything lately anyways..."
<Uh oh!>
Well, I can assure you that they are eating fine. Voracious, in fact.
<Oh! Very good!>
I gave them an adjustment time of 4 hours after their slow acclimation to the
tank, then fed them live Brine Shrimp.
<Nutritional value is poor.>
I swear, the Royal Gramma was trying to take the syringe out of my hand!
<Hee!>
The Psychedelic also ate with relish, but only after I had managed to squirt a
few shrimpies over his head where he could see them. Ok, so all is well, and it
looks like I may be keeping these guys indefinitely.
<OK.>
Now, before this occurred, I had ordered a pair of Banggai Cardinals for my
LFS. They arrive tomorrow. The question is: Should I purchase them and bring
them home, or will my tank be over-stocked?
<I think overstocked. Too crowed psychologically.>
There are plenty of places for the Cardinals to hide, should they wish to
(including 2 good caves), and so far the Royal Gramma and the Damsel are getting
along like good buddies and all is peaceful. I really hope to keep it that way
too!
<Then don't add the Cardinals.>
Thanks a bunch!
<Welcome! -Mich>
Darby
Re: Nano stocking question 3/16/07
Thank you for the reply Mich.
<You're very welcome my friend!>
I'll give the B. Cardinals a pass.
<Very wise on your part.>
I'm sure some other people in the area will be tripping over themselves to get
at them!
<Assuredly.>
They truly are a striking fish, even if not what most consider "colorful".
<Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. -Mich>
Darby
Can I have two cleaner shrimp? 3/14/07
Can I put two cleaner shrimp together in a 38 gallon tank with out them
fighting each other?
<Yes>
I currently have a false clownfish and a maroon about the same size never fight
with lots of live rock. Should I only put one in?
<Two will be fine. However, I do suggest starting out with one. If you are
happy with one, go ahead with the second. I was unable to view the picture, but
not necessary to answer your question.>
<Brenda>
Damsel/tank (small) (skimmer) question 3/13/07
Good day to all the staff of this wonderful website! I've read this site and
its archives for the past 3 weeks and its been very helpful, got a couple of
questions though. 1. is it true that yellow-tailed damsels lose their
"yellowtail" color when they mature?
<Mmm, not really... actually intensifies under "ideal" conditions... good water
quality, nutrition, social factors...>
how long (is it months or years?) does a damsel of this kind mature?
<Likely just several months... You can look on fishbase.org... and read their
Cartesian graphs re such...>
2. my second question is, i have a 20 gallon with 2 yellow tail damsels and 1
clown
<... too crowded... not healthy, sustainable>
with about 15lbs of live rock, everything is fine and i don't plan on adding
anything more, do i still need a skimmer? thanks in advance!
<I would have, use one, yes. See WWM re... Bob Fenner>
Nano Marine Aquaria; Newbie - 3/12/07
Dear Mr. Fish Person,
<We have Ms. Fish Person's here too, as for me I go by Adam.>
I've had fishtank as long as I can remember,
<Me too but I don't remember what I ate for dinner last night so.......>
so now (at age 17)
<I do remember being 17, that wasn't long ago.>
I feel ready to take on a marine tank.
<Cool...you have lots or research and reading to do.>
I'm planning on using a ten-gallon and I know that takes a lot more work than a
larger one, but I'm on a budget, and I've factored that in and feel I have
enough time and motivation to care for it.
<Sounds like you are on the right track.>
I would like to have an ocellaris clownfish
<Go for a tank raised individual if you can.>
and maybe a starfish later.
<What type fo starfish? Nano-Aquaria probably does not suit 99% of species
offered, most large systems don't.>
I'm going to use a hang-on-back filter and a skimmer, as well as a heater to
keep the fish happy. Do you have any advice for me before I attempt to tackle
this?
<Read this (and everything else you can):
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm .>
For instance, what kinds of small starfish are good for beginners?
<Honestly o those offered in the trade, there are not any I would recommend
other than those occurring naturally of inoculations of live rock and live
sand.>
Any feedback would be great.
<Do keep reading, learning will make the "heartache" much less likely.>
Thanks, Lindsay
<Welcome, Adam J.>
About Zoanthus Colony Polyp Corals 3/10/07
Hi, my name is Dan Zabler and I have had a salt-water tank since October
2006.
The first step is admitting you have a problem...Oh wait, wrong place. Hi Dan!
Mich here.>
The main tank is a 29-gallon high. I recently add a 20-gallon long refugium to
my system and I was looking at what types of fish to put in my refugium when I
came across the Zoanthus Colony Polyp Corals. I was wondering what types of
fish are safe to put with these polyps. I was doing some research and read that
the polyps are poisonous and I don't want to put them in my tank and find my
fish dead.
<Can be toxic, but most fish have a natural aversion to eating things that might
harm them.>
Right now I have a Scooter Dragonet (Synchiropus ocellatus),
<A real challenge to feed, often starve in captivity. Glad you have the
refugium, do research their dietary needs. More here and links in blue: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mandarins.htm>
a Firefish (Nemateleotris magnifica), and two skunk cleaners (Lysmata sp.). I
am going to get one or two more fish but I might change my decision on what fish
to get depending on the effect of the polyps going into the tank.
<I would be more concerned about the size of your tank. You need to choose any
fish you add very carefully. You tank is quite small and psychological stress
from over crowding is often a bigger issue than many appreciate. There are
several options. A few you might consider may include your basic clownfish,
Chromis and select damsels. Some other possibilities include: an Orchid
Dottyback (Pseudochromis fridmani), a Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto), or possibly
a jawfish (Opistognathus spp.). Only consider the jawfish if you have a deep
sand bed in the display and your tank is completely covered, because they will
find the smallest hole to escape from to go carpet surfing! But please only one
more fish, two at the max.>
If you could e-mail me back at this address that would be very much appreciated.
<Will do!>
Thanks,
Dan Zabler
<Welcome! -Mich>
Starcki Damsel <and a Clown!> in a Nano – 03/09/07
<Hi there, Mich here.>
I really want to get a Starcki damsel for my 10G, but would also like to get a
Percula Clown. Do you think it would be worth the risk?
<No! Too much fish, not enough space!>
Do you think if I put the clown in first and add the damsel a few weeks later it
might work.
<No, there is not really enough room in the tank for one of these fish, let
alone two!>
I'm prepared to watch for any aggression, and remove one of the fish if becomes
a problem. It's only a 10 so taking it apart if I had to catch a fish isn't
terrible.
<Better to get a larger tank or set up another system.>
I have done a lot of Googling, and it seems that the Starcki is one of the least
aggressive damsels you’re going to find, and they are gorgeous little fish. Some
people even say theirs are rather timid.
<But the tank is still too small.>
I think it is worth the risk, and I'm pretty sure if the Damsel tried anything
the clown could take care of himself.
<You are setting up a system filled with a good deal of psychological stress. I
wouldn't recommend it.>
Do you guys think I can try it, as long as I keep a close eye out for
aggression, and if necessary remove one of the fish (hopefully I won't have
to).? I realize the instinct is Damsel=Evil, but people do a lot of things in
this hobby that are against the rules, and have success.
<I just don't think this is a good idea.>
I'm just debating if it's worth the risk. Worse comes to worse I have to take
the damsel out, it can't hurt to try right?
<My goal is to have you be a conscientious marine aquarist and that means doing
what is right for those creatures dependant on you for their care. You
ultimately control their entire world and I just don't think it's fair to put
these two fish is such an exceedingly small system. I'm sorry, I know this is
not what you want to hear, but is what should be said. -Mich>
Thanks
P. mccoskeri For a Small Reef? (Oh Yes!) - 03/02/07
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
I would like to know if my 40 breeder tank would work for a male
Paracheilinus mccoskeri Wrasse?
<<Very neat little fish...yes it would>>
My total water volume is 65 gallons. I have a 25 gallon sump/refugium. The
male I would like is only 2in. I know, of course, it will eventually grow.
<<Mmm...but not much more in my experience (to about 3~31/2 inches)>>
I will upgrade my system in the future. Just wanted your thoughts on this.
<<P. mccoskeri is an excellent little wrasse for reef systems. Very peaceable
(conspecifics aside), generally very hardy, and quite attractive too!>>
I have a nice stable reef right now. 66 pounds of LR/ not all in the main
display, but a good amount for hiding, DSB, BM150 skimmer, LPS, Refugium,
closed-loop with a Sequence snapper.
<<Sounds very nice>>
I haven't been able to find someone that asked this question about this
particular Wrasse. Please let me know.
<<I think I just did [grin]>>
I currently have no other fish. I'm looking to get some and this one looked
great and sounded like it has great personality, plus it's Gorgeous.
<<Indeed>>
Thank you.
Gina
<<A pleasure to share. EricR>>
Wrasse Addition to Semi-Nano Aquaria 3/1/07
Hi
<Hello.>
My name is Joe and I currently have a 3 months old saltwater aquarium that is 36
gallons, has a bunch of snails and hermits,
<How much is a bunch?>
40 lbs of live rock, a Citrinus Clown Goby, and a flame Angelfish.
<Tank is on the small side for a centropyge.>
I was wondering if you had a suggestion for a type of wrasses to add to my
aquarium. I am looking for something that will fit stocking wise, and
aggression wise between the goby and angel. I know the angel may give him a
hard time though, but was thinking wrasse are aggressive and tough enough to
handle. Particularly one of the smaller sized ones that will fit in my tank, and
will be a different coloration from the goby and angel if possible, but that is
not primary. I like the four and six line wrasse fish, but never see the four
or twelve line wrasse I think they call it around in stores.
<The only wrasses I would find suitable would be a smaller member of the
Pseudocheilinus genus (which the sixline is) or possibly a member of the
Wetmorella genus (possum wrasse).>
Also in the future I will be adding a 10g refugium to the side of the tank, and
corals when my lighting upgrades.
<Sounds good.>
If you have suggestions or any comments it would be appreciated.
<Just to stay diligent and keep reading, Adam J.>
Overstocking, Hermit Crab eating snails – 2/26/07
<Hi Tracy, Brenda Here tonight.>
Thank you for your great articles.
<Your welcome.>
We have a 33 gallon tank that is about 1yr running now. We started with live
sand and began adding live rock and snails 1 month later. After 6 months we
were up to 70 lbs live rock, 3 turbo snails 15 blue leg hermits
<You have too many crabs. I recommend one per 10 gallon or less.>
6 Margarite snails, 1 sally light foot 1 cleaner shrimp, lots of little feather
dusters on live rock, I have seen some bristle worms too, 1 blenny, 2 tiny
maroon clowns and a yellow tang, 1 very small anemone its white and about 1/4 of
an inch big.
<1/4” anemone? Pest anemone? Your tank is much too small for a tang.>
There is coralline growing and we have star polyps. All was well for a few
months then the tang died.
We checked the water (prior to this we change 10% every 2 wks) and did a 50%
change the ph was 8.2 and nitrate 10 Two days later we did another water change.
The salinity is kept at 1.023. The place where we get our supplies checks the
other levels for us and said they were good.
<Nitrates at 10 is not good, need to be zero. I suggest purchasing your own
test kits and learning to test all of your water parameters. What will you do
at midnight when you need to know your water parameters?>
After the tang died the tank became over run with red slime algae and green hair
algae.
<Have you checked for phosphates?>
We were able to combat the red algae but the green was unreal. We had to remove
the fish to a holding tank and clean the algae of the live rock you couldn't see
any live rock the algae was so bad. We scrubbed off the algae under RO water.
Everything seemed nice and clean we tested the water, the store said all looked
good the nitrate still at 10 though.
<The LFS is not doing you any favors by telling you that your water is good when
nitrates are above zero.>
We put the fish back in and purchased a zebra turbo snail and 5 Nassarius snails
and a conch snail and a peppermint cleaner shrimp. That was about 1 month ago 1
week ago we got a pink tipped anemone for the clowns who have out grown the
little tiny one (sorry don't know what kind it is) the pink tipped hasn't quite
settled yet still on the move some how I think it is running away from the clown
that wont leave it for a second it actually lies down on its side wrapped in the
tentacles of the anemone.
<Buying any tank mate and not knowing the species is a bad idea. Your salinity
is too low for an anemone. It should be 1.026. You have two anemones, and I
have no idea what kind. You won’t be able to successfully keep two species of
anemones in a 33 gallon tank. A 33 gallon tank is border line for even one
anemone, unless you are experienced with keeping anemones. Your tank is
overstocked, and I believe you will continue to have problems. The anemone has
not settled because it is unhappy with its environment.>
Now 3 snails are dead, one of the hermit crabs is now very huge could he be
eating them?
<You bet it can!>
He moved into a very large shell and looks to be about 2 1/2 inch by 1 inch
big. Do you think the anemone has something to do with it?
<Nope!>
Thank you Tracy
<You’re Welcome. Please research all of your livestock and learn their
requirements and compatibility with others before you buy. Good luck with your
tank. Brenda>
Sebae... anemone, Carpet and Euphyllia, in a 36 gal., oh my!
2/26/07
Hello Wetwebmedia crew!
<Julie>
I recommend your site to all of our fellow reefers, and I use it often myself.
Thank you for this vital and informative service.
Now to my question.
I have a 36 gallon bowfront with 96 watt power compacts. I have a carpet anemone
<A dangerously small volume for this/these species>
that hosts a 4 inch cinnamon clown.( I know he is a little large, but I'm a
sucker for fish no one wants. He was brought into the fish store as an exchange,
and looked so pitiful I adopted him) The are inseparable. Now, I purchased a
considerably smaller cinnamon approximately 1.5 inches. He happily adapted to
his surroundings, but, being the intelligent little creature he is, he steered
clear of the carpet for what I assume are two reasons: the larger cinnamon won't
let him anywhere near his carpet, and he didn't want to become lunch for that
same carpet.
<All take time to "become familiar"... as you're likely aware>
So, he persistently rubbed all three heads off of my frogspawn. (sigh).
<Yikes... this Euphylliid is in this small volume with a Carpet?>
I purchased a sebae anemone for him and both are happily living in the opposite
corner of the tank after a period of traveling around finding just the right
spot.
<A time bomb...>
Now, my question is, after reading about coloration of the sebae, mine is the
"stark white" color with purple tips.
<Bleached...>
It has been this way since purchase approximately 2 months ago. The carpet was a
very white color also when I purchased it a year ago, but since turned a dingy
brownish color. (after reading up on anemones, I assume this is a good thing)
<Mmm, yes... is improving.... reincorporating zooxanthellae...>
Now, the sebae settled down at the bottom of the tank and has remained there for
the last couple of weeks. It looks full and healthy, but the color concerns me.
Will it take on the dingy brown color like my carpet?
<Perhaps in time... but much more likely you will have an extreme-enough
allelopathogenic event here... with the clowns being killed, and all else...
with one of the anemones being last "to go">
Both anemones eat small chopped up "prime reef" and "squid" about once a week or
longer. I have a hob refugium and a CPR backpack with 1/3 of the space being
taken up with live rock. I also have quite a bit of macro algae growing in the
tank (rooted in the sand)
<Good... this gear and the algae have forestalled the event mentioned above>
various snails and hermits, a cleaner shrimp, a decorator crab and small black
scissor tailed damsel. (oh I almost forgot a brittle star that I only see with
the flashlight when lights are out). This tank has never had anything expire in
it save for the occasional war over a shell between a hermit and snail. About
six months ago I had an outbreak of brown algae, which the snails cleaned up
promptly and still keep everything nice and clean.
So do you think my sebae being so white will "color up" given more time?
<I think all will die if the anemones are not separated>
I was quite surprise to read where the white color is not a good thing, since
every single sebae I have seen at the local fish stores are the stark white
color with the purple tips that look exactly like mine.
Thank you for all that you do for our hobby (i.e.-read here addiction)
Julie B
<Please read here (heeee!):
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemcompfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Fish additions to a 29 gallon Bio Cube 2/25/07
Hello WWM crew,
<Henry>
Thank you in advance for taking the time to look over my question
and hopefully give me the correct direction I need. My tank has been up and
running for 9 weeks now. Bio-balls have been removed and a Sapphire Aquatics
skimmer added in their place. I have added some Loc-Line to the output port for
the stock filter area to break the outflow into two separate directions. I have
added a power head in the tank and my flow is about 600 gph total.
<All good changes>
Everything else in the tank is stock as delivered from Oceanic. I may upgrade
lighting down the road. All parameters have been going through cycling about as
I expected from reading yours and other materials. The cycle is complete (should
I say first major cycle) and the all parameters are within the accepted ranges
for a reef tank. The tank was started with 11 lbs. of Tufa base rock, 20 lbs. of
LFS cured LR. 20 lbs. of CaribSea Live aragonite sand (or as live as it can be
sitting in a bag on a shelf for however long).
<Mmmm, yes>
I have added some GSP in wk. #7, some Zoanthids in wk. #8 and some small
mushrooms and Ricordea in wk. #9.
I am looking forward to the addition of fish, probably starting somewhere in wk.
#16. The fish I would like to add are Centropyge loriculus, Cryptocentrus
cinctus, Pseudocheilinus hexataenia, and one Amphiprion percula.
<Mmm, how many gallons is this system? Too small for a Flame Angel>
If I were to give up on adding anything down the line it would be the clown. I
plan to add these fish one at a time at about two week intervals. Naturally I
will be keeping an eagle eye on the parameters as they change with the bio-load
to ensure that the 10-15% weekly water changes and the biological filtration are
able to keep the water in the condition it needs to be in. My question for you
is the order of addition. I am thinking the goby then wrasse then angel then
clown. Your thoughts?
<Is fine>
I appreciate the fact that you all are working to keep the site up and running
and I have been using it, mostly in the search function, and this is my first
time writing since I could not find what I was looking for doing searches. I
remain grateful and your fan.
Henry
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Peppermint and Cleaner Shrimp... small sys. incomp. 2/24/07
Good Morning Crew,
I have two questions regarding the two types of shrimp in my 29 Gallon marine
tank. First is concerning a Peppermint Shrimp. Just yesterday I
noticed my Peppermint Shrimp resting still, upside down under a live rock. This
in itself is not unusual however it was not his normal spot
and he did not come out during feeding time.
<Mmm, may be getting near a molt... perhaps reproducing...>
This morning I found him dead on the bottom. The only changes recently was about
a week ago I added a Cleaner shrimp to help deal with a mid case of ich.
<Mmm, won't... and these two may not have been compatible...>
Are there diseases or anything else that may have caused his demise - all else
appears to be normal in the tank.
My other question in concerning the Cleaner Shrimp - I have noticed black
blotches on either side of his main body. He appears healthy and
very active at feeding time. Should these black blotches of concern to me? (he
has molted once in the tank)
<Mmm, no... please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clrshrpdisfaqs.htm
Likely similar... algal growths>
Other info
29 Gallon Tank
1 Penguin 300 Biowheel Hang on Filter
1 Prism Protein Skimmer
2 Internal Powerheads
Live Rock
4 Large Hair Mushrooms
3 Small Maroon Mushrooms
<Not nearly enough room for these here>
3 Cromis
1 Ocellaris Clown
<Territorial trouble... the two Pomacentrids above will lose to the winning
Premnas>
1 Sailfin Blenny (very skinny - trying to feed)
1 Scopus Tang
<Ditto>
6 hermit crabs
9 assorted snails
Lots of Amphipods
A number of assorted hitchhikers
Water levels are good however I have had issues with elevated Nitrates and
Nitrites in recent past
Thanks, Lance
<Do be planning on a much larger system... soon, Lance. BobF>
Problem with Crabs and Overstocking – 2/20/07
Help!
<Hi Janet, Brenda here tonight>
I have been reading through your FAQ’s and reading elsewhere and I am not
finding the answers to my question. Since November 2006 I have had a 24 gallon
Aqua Pod. All my parameters are within the required limits. I do a weekly 4
gallon water change to keep my nitrates down.
I have 4 fish (yellow-tail damsel, 1 clarkii clownfish, and 2 percula
clownfish), there are snails and crabs, mushrooms, an anemone (the clarkii loves
it there), a sea urchin, a blue star fish, frogspawn coral, feather duster, star
polyp, Caulastrea, Galaxea coral, yellow pagoda, zoanthid, and 2 cleaner
shrimps.
<Oh my! You're way over stocked. You will also see aggression between the
percula and clarkii clownfish as they mature. You shouldn’t mix corals and
anemones, especially a nano tank. The Galaxea has sweeper tentacles that can
reach up to 12 inches, the frogspawn also has long tentacles and the Caulastrea
up to 2 inch tentacles. These tentacles will sting all your corals and your
invertebrates.>
I had (and these have not survived) a electric flame scallop, black sun coral,
pearl bubble coral, brain coral, and Fungia.
<I’m not surprised.>
I feed them 1X a day ~ I alternate every other day with the following Mysis
shrimp, Cyclop eeze (originally for the black sun coral), and prime reef flake
food.
About a month ago, I took out 10 crabs (I had 20) because they seem to be eating
other things in the tank besides the garbage.
<It is recommended to have 1 crab or less for every 10 gallons. I don’t
recommend crabs with anemones.>
Now they seem to be eating snails
<This is common they can also eat small fish, corals, and nip at anemones.>
and they look they are eating each other, too.
<Have not heard of this, could be the sweeper tentacles.>
It, also, looks they have multiplied. What do I do?
<Decide what sort of tank you want to keep, anemone or coral. If you choose
coral, select those that are not as aggressive. Please research compatibility
and care before your purchase.>
Janet
<Brenda>
Pico Reef Tank - 07/29/06
Hi WWM crew:
<<Howdy Jeff!>>
After a couple of years of keeping a medium-sized (46 gallon) reef tank and
learning all the million and one things NOT to do, I've decided--even though I
know I have to learn another billion or so things NOT to do--to take the plunge
into a Pico reef tank. (Yes, I'm aware that most nanos and picos fail in the
long-run, so I'm taking this risk with no illusions.)
<<Mmm, must admit to disliking pico/nano systems...death traps for the most
part, in my humble opinion>>
I've been continually learning by first-hand experience, by countless hours of
reading your FAQ's, articles and books, and by talking with other "reef geeks".
<<Let's hope it will be enough...>>
Now here's my set-up plan:
TANK, EQUIPMENT, & SUPPLIES - 3 gallon mini Deco with 18 watts of PC light,
50/50 (dimensions 12.5"L x 9.5"W x 7.5"H), Deco power filter (Hang-on) with 80
gph of flow (so about 27X turnover per
hour) - note: filter cartridge to be replaced by a bag of Seachem's Purigen.
<<A good idea>>
Tetra 50 Watt heater (4.5" long, fully submersible, preset at 78F)
<<Hmm...this sounds too large...would quickly do damage if it were to "stick
on">>
Algae magnet cleaner, Digital thermometer, Refractometer, AP saltwater test kit,
Salifert Alk test kit, Seachem Reef Salt, Seachem Reef Buffer.
<<Dosing additives is dangerous/should be unnecessary on this small volume of
water. Frequent partial water changes will be quick/easy and will
provide/replenish all the elements this tank will need...and do so safely>>
MAINTENANCE REGIMEN - DAILY: 2 CUPS of water change (approximately 4% of tank
volume daily), Top-off (I have yet to measure exactly how much water is lost to
evaporation in 24 hours; if necessary I may have to top-off twice a day--once in
the morning and once in the evening)
<<Indeed...won't take much evaporation to cause large swings in water
chemistry>>
Scrape algae off acrylic wall, monitor temperature, pH, and specific gravity.
-WEEKLY: Siphon of substrate & LR, cleaning of filter & replacement of Purigen
as necessary, salt water mix prep in 5 gal bucket w/heater & powerhead, refill
top-off water bucket, test for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, & Alkalinity.
SUBSTRATE: .5" of white sand, 2-3 lbs of live rock.
LIVE STOCK:
This is where I need advice. I know that stocking this tank will be the most
critical.
<<Indeed...won't be keeping much in this tiny volume of water>>
I gave it a lot of thought and decided it will house only
the following:
A single colony of some species of xenia (I've actually kept the elongata
species in my larger tank, and it has grown rapidly)
- 2 red-leg hermit crabs
- 1 Astrea snail
I choose xenia because they're relatively hardy, almost fully autotrophic,
<<Mmm, do feed through absorption...have been proposed as viable organisms for
"animal" filters (a vessel filled with organisms utilized for the water
filtering capacity>>
and because I love their pulsing behavior. I'm thinking the waste from the live
rock, crabs and snail will give it enough sustenance without me having to feed
it by polluting the water.
<<Possibly, yes>>
I'm afraid of putting any food in the tank at all since overfeeding would be too
easy.
<<Agreed>>
I will also not dose any supplements & additives--too dangerous in this system.
<<Ah...good!>>
Besides, the Seachem Reef Salt (which I'm using for my larger tank) contains
good levels of trace elements.
<<Agreed again>>
My Question is: which species of xenia would you recommend (if at all)?
<<X. elongata or X. umbellata would be fine choices I think. Though if you've
kept Xenia before you should be aware that sometimes it declines for "no
apparent reason">>
And would the wastes produced from the LR, crabs & snail be sufficient
supplemental nutrition?
<<Maybe...though the crab and snail may need supplemental feeding at some
point...maybe best provided by exchanging the old rock with new>>
If not, what "feeding" regimen would you recommend?
<<At this point, none. If you choose not to swap out old rock for new (about
every 4-6 months...maybe more often), a shrimp pellet or two (literally), tossed
in every 3-4 days may suffice>>
Best Regards,
~Jeff
<<Cheers, EricR>>
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