 |
|
| Home | Marine Aquariums |
Freshwater Aquariums |
Planted Aquariums |
Brackish Systems |
Ponds,
lakes & fountains |
Turtles & Amphibians |
Aquatic Business |
Aquatic Science |
Ask the WWM Crew a Question |
| Please visit our Sponsors | ||||
New Fish For Larger Nano One More Fish...But Which One? (Stocking Decisions) 11/19/08 (Sorry if this is a resend. My computer didn't have full access last time (I get broadband from an access point), so I'm not really sure if it was sent or not.) Hi again, <Or again, if it is a re-send. Scott F. in today!> I'm looking for a nice fish for my 24g. This is what I have in here right now: 1 Green Chromis 1 Saddled Blenny 1 Potter's Angel (I mentioned this in an earlier e-mail- if the fish store accepts refunds/exchanges, I will probably be sending this one back. It's healthy and eating(grazing), but, just to be safe...) <Yes...needs more physical space than this aquarium can offer.> 1 Red Prawn (soon) @ least 1 Peppermint Shrimp (for Aiptasia control) And also: Around 29lb of live Tonga rock (thinking of getting a bit more live rock... like a few small pieces of high-quality Fiji branch rock to "top it off", and maybe some turf rock...(hoping to get a little bristle worm ^_^)) Several dark red mushrooms A Ricordea A micro brittle star A Banded Brittle Star A Hair or Spaghetti Worm, and, 1 Horseshoe Feather Duster (came on the rock with the red mushrooms) Plus red encrusting sponge, and... Well, you get the picture. Anyway, I was wondering if you could recommend a good fish for me. Right now, my choices are: A pair of Helfrichi Firefish (I love these guys, though they're a bit on the expensive side... Is it true that they're the least hardy of the Firefish? Or does it not matter as long as they're eating and have been at the store for at least a week or so?) <Yikes! Kinda pricey, IMO! I'd stick to the more "common" species, myself. And I'd only add one in this sized aquarium.> OR A pair of "regular" (orange) Firefish (There were some at the dealer's that may still be there. Although I don't know if they're an actual mated or even a male/female pair, they HAVE been together in the same tank for quite some time now. So, not only are they likely to get along with each other, but they're ALSO probably well adapted to life in captivity.) <Interesting, but this dynamic can change in a new living situation. I'd still opt for a single specimen and always quarantine first!> OR A Yashia Goby and Shrimp pair <Interesting, but the shrimp could be in peril with your other tankmates.> OR A Rainford's Goby <Hmm...I'd be inclined to pass on this one because of its need to forage on a near constant supply of small crustaceans, which this small aquarium can only support Which would do best in my tank? Both with the angelfish and without (in case I can't find another home for it/the store won't take it back)? Could I keep more than one (Helfrichi and Yashia, or orange Firefish and Rainford's Goby)? <Umm, not in this sized aquarium, IMO. Play it safe and add just one more fish. I'm leaning towards the Firefish. Hope this helps!> Thank you! <My pleasure! Regards, Scott F.> Mystery Wrasse vs. Longnose Hawkfish for 24g Reef Tank 11/15/08 Hi, <<Hello>> Umm... Am I supposed to type the title like that? <<Perfect>> You can delete it if you want. <<Nope will use it thank you>> I look on this site all the time for info, but this is the first time I've sent an e-mail, sooo... (I'd also like to ask if you received this e-mail, but that's a bit pointless, isn't it?) <<Unless you're psychic [grin]'¦or until this gets back to you>> Anyways, here's my question: Which is less likely to eat shrimp, a Mystery Wrasse or a Longnose Hawkfish? <<If we are talking about the ornamental shrimp species most often kept by hobbyists would say the Hawkfish to certainly be the more likely of the two to partake of a snack re. Although this will have much to do with size differentials and/or how any new shrimp are introduced to the tank (i.e. � �dropped in� like food>> Also, will either of these hawrasse (this is just a very, very, VERY bad pun to conceal the fact that I can't seem to spell..."that word" at 10:42 PM) my Red Cave Shrimp (Parhippolyte uveae)? <<No more than any other similar sized ornamental shrimp>> I understand that it may not necessarily be the best idea to even try, but I love both these fish and don't have any smaller shrimp at the moment. Besides, who knows? Fish are individuals to-- maybe I'll end up with one that prefers vegetarian South Beach cuisine! (Ok, maybe not.) <<Indeed>> By the way, these are my current "fishie babies": 1 Green Chromis 1 Saddled Blenny 1 SMALL Potter's Angel (Which might be moving to a larger tank once it gets bigger/once I get a bigger tank-- probably like a 150g or something, if I can pay for it with my $10 per week income for doing nothing in particular(read: allowance).) <<Mmm, yes a bigger tank is definitely in order for this fish and goes for your two proposed new additions as well, in my opinion>> Oh, and after the fish, do you think I could squeeze in a Golden Dwarf Moray Eel? <<You're kidding, right?>> Or is that overpopulation of enormous-mutant-nuclear-blue-whale-plus-three-giant-squids-going-through-puberty-and-their-subsequent-acne proportions? <<Ah! Yes indeed>> Anyways, thanks for the help. <<Happy to share>> Oh yeah, any detailed info on my shrimp? I have a very helpful LFS dealer that told me it would work well in my tank, and it did.... But just out of curiosity? Since I can't seem to find anything online. Thanks again! <<This species is fairly widespread throughout the Indo-Pacific have a look here: http://www.tamug.edu/cavebiology/fauna/shrimp/P_sterreri.html. Cheers, EricR>> 37 Gallon Saltwater Community, stkg. 10/22/08 Hello, I have emailed you guys in the past and have gotten great advice in return. <Welcome back.> Mostly about my cichlid tanks. Right now my issue is the 37 gallon saltwater tank I have set up. The tank has about an inch of sand in it and is being filtered by a canister filter that is able to filter a tank up to 55 gallons in size. <Do be aware that in saltwater where nitrate is more of an issue these filters need to be cleaned very often, at least weekly.> It has only been set up for about 4 days now. One issue I have is live rock. I was wondering if l could substitute the large portion of rock for something such as a large ornament, like I sunken ship, castle, etc. <Could, but is not really a substitute for live rock, does not have the surface area or low oxygen areas that live rock does.> I would like to make this decision ASAP for obvious reasons such as the bacteria growth of the tank. The second issue I have is my livestock compatibility. I would like to stock the tank with the following. 1 royal Gramma Basslet, 1 ocellaris clownfish, 1 blue or yellowtail damselfish, 1 Sailfin blenny and 1 six line wrasse. Compatibility charts say all these fish can be kept peacefully but I wanted you consult an "expert". Thank you for your previous replies. <I would probably choose either the clown or the damsel. Keeping both very well may lead to quite a bit of aggression between the two. Overall I would not add more than 4 fish to this sized tank.> <Chris> Ornate Goby and Three Firefish... sm. SW stkg. 8/18/08 Hello Crew!! Thank you for this amazing conglomeration of fantastic information!! <Welcome Deanna> I have an established tank, about 9 months old, 30 Gallons, and I have been having some trouble introducing new fish. When I first established the tank, I was a little cocky (I have a degree in Marine Biology, but I am quickly learning that does not make me a good aquarist). <Heee! Oh yes> I let the tank cycle for two months with some live rock and live sand. Then I got some hermit crabs, two Percula clowns, and five Chromis. <!> There was a weekend when I let my Fiancée feed my fish and he overfed and so I was down to three Chromis, one clown and I kept all my hermits. Then I introduced some small snails to clean the brown algae out of the tank and a small scooter blenny. He did well and is still alive now. I then tried introducing a pair of canary blennies. <Mmm, not enough room...> They strived for a while and then there was a week where they started hiding more and eating less. One of them died that week, the other was in serious decline after that. Its been about four months since the canaries died. Everything has been fine, water has been stable, everyone gets along. So I thought I would get some more fish. I wanted a nice small school and another sifter for my sand. I went to my LFS and talked to a guy there and I got three Firefish <What species? Most microdesmids need about two square feet of bottom per individual...> and a pretty big ornate goby, about 3 inches. I thought I had finally gotten the tank to calm down enough that I could finally introduce something gorgeous. I introduced them, after rearranging the tank (since my clown likes to show everyone who is boss), <He is here> and everything seemed alright. The clown was leaving the Firefish alone, the Firefish hadn't settled anywhere near the clown's home and the very large ornate goby didn't swallow my scooter blenny, who I didn't realize was so small. I watched them all day and the Firefish even ate right away, which I thought was pretty strange according to the research I had done. I turned out the light, went to bed, and when I woke up the next morning, I could only find two Firefish. <Mmm, yes> I checked all day long, and there was no body, and no Firefish. I counted it as a loss. I went to bed and the next morning when I turned on the light, same thing, one of the Firefish was missing. So now I was down to one Firefish and I noticed the top of his spine was gone and one of his pectoral fins was pretty badly maimed. I figured the two Firefish didn't get along and so they fought and he won. But there was still no body, which I just attributed to my crabs. This morning, I awoke, expecting to find my Chromis, my clown, my Firefish, my goby and blenny. No luck. My Firefish, or half of him, was lying on the bottom of the tank. I am perplexed by the serial killer style in which my fish are dying and who is the culprit. I don't want to introduce any more fish till I figure out what is going on. Can you please help me?? <Mmm... likely just mis-stocking for the most part. Turns out that thirty gallons really isn't much space psychologically, nor physiologically... in the way of being able to provide optimized, stable water conditions. I might do a bit of look-seeing with a flashlight at night to see if indeed you have a hiding predator of some sort (see WWM re), but really, you need to read re what can fit in such a small volume, AND get along with each other. Thus far... your choices have been iffy to poor. Bob Fenner> Deanna Fairy wrasse in a Nano tank, not 10/4/08 Hello there! <Hi!> Great site, can't repeat myself enough. <Thanks> I have a year old 10G Nano reef tank, with a medium CPR refugium loaded with Caulerpa and Chaetomorpha macros. I have 15-17 lbs of live rock, corals-mostly softies, very few SPS. 2-3 hermits. maybe 2 Nassarius snail and 3 turbo snail. No fish. Parameters are: Amm 0, nitrate 0, Ph 8.2-8.3, alkalinity 8-9 DKH, calcium 440 ppm, magnesium 1280-1350 ppm, Temp 77-80 F I run a Outer Orbit MH 150W 14000 Kelvin light system. All my corals and inverts seem very healthy and growing fast. The system free of nuisance algaes of any kind. ( Wasn't an easy progress though..:-) Here's my question. I'd love to keep either an exquisite, Scott's or blue sided fairy wrasse in my system. That would be my only fish. Please let me know if it's possible in such a small system? Did you know anyone who had success with them in a Nano tank? <Very rarely... these fishes need much more room to move, feel safe... am wondering if there isn't "footage" on "YouTube" or such re how Cirrhilabrus make their lives in the wild... For the most part they live in shoals that roam around a large territory together, "playing off" each other... with one alpha male, an assortment of lesser fe/males, undifferentiated individuals... W/o the social component, the males alone don't act or stay very spectacular... in such small volumes they basically go "stir crazy"... Really need a hundred gallons plus... others of their own kind...> Your time and hassle truly appreciated, Sonny <James Lawrence/Microcosm, told me ayer that they're coming out with one of their pocket guide books on livestock for nanos... I believe you're a candidate. Bob Fenner> which shrimp? No reading... 10/3/08 Which shrimp is best suited for a 10 gallon tank and how many shrimp would be optimum for that size tank? <...> I am thinking about the possibility of a Cleaner shrimp, Fire shrimp and a Sexy shrimp combination for this 10 gallon Nano tank. Would this be too many shrimp and what are the pitfalls of three shrimp together? Other pertinent information is the further stocking of the tank. Included would be snails (I'm not sure which snails and how many). There would also be a pair of /Ocellaris Clownfish. Wayne <Too small for all the above... Please, no, no please. Follow directions before writing us. Answers to this absurd list of questions are posted, over and over. Bob Fenner> 29 gallon reef and fish compatibility/choices
10/1/08 I have a 29 gallon tank. It's dimensions are
30" long x 18.25" high x 12.25" deep. I have 35 pounds
of #5 sand (total of 2" depth across entire bottom) and 38 pounds
of live rock. For filtration I have a Millennium 2000 filter (floss and
charcoal) (160 gallons per hour) and an Aqua C Remora skimmer w/ a
MaxiJet 1200 powerhead (can't quickly find a spec for the gallons
per hour for this). For water flow/circulation I have a Hydor Koralia
400 powerhead (400 gallons per hour) (front top left corner aimed at
front bottom right corner), a Maxi-jet 900 powerhead with the Sureflow
modification (approximately 1600 gallons per hour) (at bottom left
corner aimed across back of tank behind live rock stack) and a Maxi-jet
600 powerhead (160 gallons per hour) (top left middle aimed up to make
ripples). For lighting I have two (2) Current Satellite 3065 power
compact light fixtures w/ fans. Each fixture has a two (2) sided bulb
with a 10,000K side and a 7100K (blue) side. <Sounds/reads very
nice> The tank parameters have been fairly stable for about 2 weeks
now. The measurements are as follows: water temp - 80° F
±, specific gravity (using a refractometer) - 1.024, pH -
8.1-8.2, ammonia - 0, nitrite - 0, nitrate - less than ten (10) (lowest
scale on my tester), alkalinity - 3.0-3.5 mEq/l, calcium - 375-450 ppm
(It's hard to know with my current test kit. I am looking for a
better test kit.) Since the parameters stabilized I have had a diatom
bloom and now a hair algae bloom. I have done two (2) weekly 4 gallon
water changes, and I have added a clean up crew consisting of the
following. Five (5) Blue Leg Hermit Crabs (Clibanarius tricolor), four
(4) Red Tip Hermit Crabs (Clibanarius sp.), two (2) Turbo Snails (Turbo
fluctuosa), two (2) Cerith Snails (Cerithium sp.), and two (2)
Nassarius Snails (Nassarius sp.). I also have two (2) Scarlet Skunk
Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) because I think they are
interesting. <Me too> I am currently getting information together
to buy some fish. My local fish store will hold my fish in quarantine
to make sure they are healthy before coming into my tank. <Mmm, my
usual cautionary remark here re doing this yourself> This quarantine
will give my tank additional time to age as well. I'm thinking 4 to
6 weeks for quarantine. My first additions will be an Ocellaris
Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris) (My wife says we have no choice, we
have to have this fish.) and either a Citrinis Clown Goby (Gobidon
citrinus) or a Fridmani Pseudochromis (Pseudochromis fridmani).
I've read the goby eats Acroporas in the wild, but can be fed Mysis
shrimp and other meaty foods. <Usually yes> Four (4) to six (6)
weeks later I would then add which ever fish wasn't added above and
one of the following; a Coral Beauty Angelfish (Centropyge bispinosus),
a Dwarf Flame Angelfish (Centropyge loriculus), or a Banggai
Cardinalfish (Pterapogon kauderni). My wife would really like to get
the Coral Beauty and I really like the Dwarf Flame, but I'm afraid
they are too big for our tank. <They are> I've also thought
about adding a Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus) <Mmm, this
also... see WWM re Salarias, systems...> and a couple of peppermint
shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni). <The other Lysmata may consume them. I
would not attempt> How much bioload do the blenny and the goby count
for? Do they count the same as a normal fish, or do they count less due
to their size and inactivity? <A bit more for the Blenny (is a VERY
active species)> Will the peppermint shrimp and the cleaner shrimp
get along? <No, not likely> I've also thought about adding an
Orange Sea Star (Echinaster sp.) or a Red and Black Sea Star (Fromia
milleporella). <I would not try these either... this small volume...
is too unstable> Now on to the corals. I'd like to add some of
the following Dwarf Feather Dusters (Bispira sp.), Christmas Tree Worms
(Spirobranchus Porites), Evergreen Starburst Polyps (Briareum sp.),
different colors of Chalices (Echinophyllia aspera), different colors
of Zoas (Zoanthus sp.), different colors of Ricordeas (Ricordea yuma
and Ricordea florida), Glove Polyp (Clavularia sp.), Lavender Mushroom
(Rhodactis sp.), Orange Tree Gorgonian (Swiftia exserta), Rusty
Gorgonian (Gorgonia sp.), Pipe Organ Coral (Tubipora musica), or Pom
Pom Xenia (Xenia sp.). <Quite a mix... need to take care here in
order of introduction, start with small "pieces", mix water
twixt quarantine... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm and the linked files above>
My wife also wants an Anemone for the Clownfish. <Mmm, not
compatible... Please do read re on WWM... IF you try the anemone, skip
other Cnidarians here> We were looking at the Bulb Anemone
(Entacmaea quadricolor), but I don't think I have room for it in
this small tank. <Really... this is the case> Please help me
narrow down my list by what is appropriate for this tank size and what
will get along with what. <I have done my preliminary best here...
your turn. Bob Fenner> Flame Hawk vs. False Perc, mis-over stocked, Sm. 9/25/08 Hi Guys, <Hello> I have a 24 gallon reef tank stocked with 2 clowns (false Percs, in the tank approx 9 months) and a Coral Beauty (added 5 months ago). <The Centropyge will need a tank at least twice as large.> I added a small 2 inch flame hawk 5 days ago and the larger clown has been acting very aggressive toward him, chasing him all around the tank and nipping at him constantly. <That tank is all claimed by the clowns most likely.> The hawk either swims away or nips back and seems to be holding his own, but I was wondering if eventually the clown will stop being so aggressive. <Perhaps, but in this sized tank I'm not sure.> Does it think the flame hawk is another clown trying to take over as top female? <It thinks it is invading it's territory most likely, which it is.> I should mention that the hawk still has a healthy appetite and shows no signs of physical injury but is very, very annoyed by the clown bully. <Watch that this aggression does not escalate.> This new tank aura seems to have spilled over to the coral beauty who is now acting a little stressed even though he is not involved at all in the drama. <Too much activity in a tank that is too small for it is probably causing stress.> Please help! Did I make a mistake in adding the flame hawk? Nothing I read said he wouldn't be compatible with false Percs! <It is a small tank, and the clowns are pretty aggressive, most likely they view the entire tank as theirs.> Any insight you can add would be a great help! Thanks, Todd Wisniewski <The Coral Beauty will definitely need a larger tank sooner rather than later. As far as the clowns and hawk are concerned only time will tell if they will be able to coexist.> <Chris> BioCube stocking 9/25/08 Hello Crew, <Michele> Thanks as always for the advice and the great website! I have a stocking question regarding a Nano tank and apologies ahead of time if this is well covered in the archives and I missed it. We have a 14 gallon BioCube with upgrades (auto top off, MaxiJet powerhead, 10 gallon fuge, bioballs removed, mesh to prevent "jumping" to the back compartments) with about 1 1/2 inch slightly coarse sand (one size up from fine) and about 10 pounds live rock in the display. The tank was used as a QT and has since sat fallow for about 8 months. It's amazing to watch the growth in the tank without fish predation! <Ah yes> We harvest macroalgae from the Nano for our tangs in our larger tanks. A small green clown goby (Gobiodon atrangulatus) was added about a month ago because a fight broke out in our 90G. We mistakenly thought we had lost our goby and ordered another one. The first one appeared and WWIII broke out! <Oh yes> Question 1: Is this a sufficient home for a clown goby? <Mmm, can be... in the wild, on an Acropora patch, this can be about all the space one is "allotted"> There is a large Zoanthid colony and a few mushrooms, but obviously no SPS for this fish. <Have seen Gobiodon kept w/o> We have other tank options for the fish, but leaving him would certainly be the easiest. Question 2: The original plan for this tank was to add a shrimp goby pair. Assuming weekly water changes and basic husbandry, is this tank large enough to support a pair of Stonogobiops nematodes with their shrimp? <Mmm, could> Would a pair of Stonogobiops yashia be a better choice? <About the same... in terms of hardiness, space requirements. IME S. nematodes settles in easier> Question 3: If you give approval for the goby pair, would you move the clown goby or am I still ok bioload/psychologically? <Could, would see if they learned to live with each other here. Likely the Gobiodon stays, will stay "higher up" in the system than the Stonogobiops> Question 4 (last one I swear!): I have a massive population of some pretty big bristleworms in the tank now....is this a concern with any of these tiny fish? <A possible one, yes... I would trap out, remove large species, specimens> Thanks again! Michele <Thank you for sharing, writing so well. Bob Fenner> Saltwater tank, small, "enemies", mis-stocking 9/13/08 HI I'm Shannon Karabaic I'm 10 years old and I have started a salt water tank I am getting a clown fish soon. I have a bio cube 8 tank. I have a bubble enemy it keeps going in the back behind the rock what should I do? <Mmm, this system is too small for this animal (an Entacmaea quadricolor)... it should be returned to the store, or moved to adequate quarters. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm and the linked files above> I also have one more question I have a shrimp enemy and I feed it with a turkey baster like the guy told me to do and the shrimp backs a way but he go's for it and the food pops to the top to quick for it. What should I do? <It should be returned as well> please respond ASAP thank you from, Shannon <These animals won't live long or well in this set-up... it's too small, unstable. Bob Fenner> Pom Poms and Croceas 9/9/08 Hi there guys, I have a Nano 10 gallon with a 175W Metal Halide on it. <"Giant steps are what you take, walking on the moon/sun"> It has a 2.5 gallon sump/fuge with mangroves growing in it. 14.5 pounds live Rock, 10 Pounds Live sand, assorted SPS and LPSs plus Zoos and Palys, Established tank, 9 months old. Ok, so my question is this. Stinging corals, especially LPSs, can harm clams very easily if they get too close. But can anemones do the same? <Yes> More specifically, I want to get a pom pom crab because I think they are very interesting, and well, just plain cool, but would this Crab hurt my clam. My porcelain crab and my emerald crab both love to climb over everything and make a mess. Could this be problematic with a pom pom and a clam? Thanks, Andrew <Some chance, but most Lybia avoid the mantles of clams... The real issue here is going to be "just size/volume"... When, not if, "something" goes awry here, there is going to be very little "wiggle room" or reaction time to prevent a complete melt-down. Bob Fenner> Crab compatibility, reef life period, Sm.
sys. 8/31/08 My reef tank has been running 3
yrs. 32 gallons w/15 gal. sump. Lighting is 150 watt halide, I think it
is a 20k but it might be a 14k (I can't remember for sure) with 2
65 watt pc with actinic bulbs. E.T.S. skimmer and I run a magnum 350
with sea gel in it. All water parameters are good, with the possible
exception of a little lower ph than I would like, it stays around 8.1.
<This is fine> I have lots of mushrooms, a leather, feather
dusters, purple corky finger. My question is. I want a Bubble coral
<A Plerogyra may "fight" with the established
Cnidarians... could be disastrous> and have a good spot for it. I
would like to get an anemone crab and/or an anemone shrimp as I have
read that they will live in the bubble. <Some species> Is this
true and will it hurt the bubble? <Mmm, not much likely> My
second question is. I have 2 clowns and one cleaner goby, 2 cleaner
shrimp, a few scarlet hermits and snails. Will the clowns eat the small
shrimp and/or crab? <They will try to eat the shrimp, the crab may
eat them> Will the crab hurt my cleaner shrimp or feather dusters?
<Possibly, yes> Will the cleaners hurt the small shrimp and/or
crab? <If hungry, yes> Since I'm writing I would also like
your opinion on bulbs. I've read that a lot of people think Ushio
halides are the best, is there really a difference? <Ushio and
Buschkes are my faves> Thanks for your help. I looked around your
site a lot and could not find the answer to this question. Debra <I
would NOT place this Euphylliid and its symbionts here myself... too
likely to be too much negative interaction. This small volume is topped
off stock-wise. Bob Fenner>
Re: Small tank lighting follow-up... actually stkg. 08/15/2008 Hi Andrew <<Ranjith>> Regarding the pods and mandarin There will be 50 kg.s of rock taken from and existing tank with a good pod culture. The display would be bare but will have a 12inch deep sand bed refugium of 24L by 20W by 18H. Will this not be enough for one mandarin? <<After seeing a lot of these die in captivity, I'll stick with my previous statement...Leave the mandarin alone. Please do read more here and the linked articles and FAQ's http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mandarins.htm >> If not the Chromis, the would one of these work? 1. Two Perculas, one orchid Dottyback and one yellow tang and a mandarin. <<Too small for the yellow tang>> 2. One royal gamma (light shy?) One watchman goby, two Percula clown and one mandarin. <<Taking the above into account, no mandarin, rest are fine>> 3. Two dwarf lionfish. No shrimps then. <<Would only put one dwarf lion in a tank this size>> 4. Two Perculas, one orchid Dottyback and one mandarin and one watchman goby. <<Minus mandarin, yes fine>> 5. Two Perculas one mandarin and 2 orchid Dottybacks 6. Two Perculas and 2 Firefish and one mandarin. <<5 and 6 fine, minus mandarin>> Sorry for this long list. Cheers Ranjith <<Please do spend some more time looking at other species of fish to keep, including here, fishbase.org, LiveAquaria.com ...Thanks for the follow-up. A Nixon>>
Mini Mini Micro Reef, stkg. Hey guys, still doing a great job on the site, and I am still learning a lot from it. ;) <Thanks! I'm glad to hear you gain from the work here, and apologise up front for my tardy reply to your inquiry!> I have a 2.5gal (yes that small) mini reef on my work desk that has supported some button polyps and a very very small coral banded shrimp for over a year now. It also houses 4 hermits and 2 bumblebee snails. <WOW...that is a very, very tiny tank!> I run a rather large protein skimmer off the back of it, adding another 1/2 gal to the water volume and doing a great job keeping the water in good shape. I have an 18w actinic light above it also and one small power head for more water circulation. I am able to do tank maintenance during work hours (I have a kind of flexible job) and so it gets about two 10% water changes weekly with R.O. water. I also clean the stones and skimmer and what not on a regular basis. <Sounds good...where can I fill out an application for your job, and would the desks hold a 75?> With all this being said, are there any small fish I can put in this tank that will not jump out (open top)? Most of the gobies and others I have read about that are small enough to be happy are jumpers. <I really don't know of any, Gary. Some could be 'squeezed' in, but ultimately they and the ecosystem would suffer for it.> It would be really nice to see some more movement in the tank besides the shrimp. <Perhaps trying to intentionally collect small macrofauna? Micro serpent stars, Mysis shrimps, etc could add interest to the tank.> Thank you, <Benjamin>
What to do with 6 gallon Nano?, Marine Stocking 8/6/08 I got my first saltwater tank a few months back, a 12 gallon Nano cube. I had a rough start but things are going great now (I'm an expert! Yeah, right!). <HeeHee> So great, that I want more (bad me, bad! I have no room or time for another tank.). In that time, I've pulled an emerald Mithrax crab and a tiny unknown crab out of the 12 gallon and kept them in a 3 gallon Eclipse tank. I really can't stand the 3 gallon tank since I can't maneuver to do anything, and all that grows are diatoms since the lighting is weak. <Such small tanks are very difficult to maintain.> The 6 gallon Nano cube was on sale so I ordered one. The tank will have the two crabs, live rock, and live sand for sure. <Will probably have the same problems.> What else can I put in there? <Nothing in my opinion.> I will try a few snails but no hermit crabs (since there are already two crabs of potentially grabby disposition). <A few snails will overload it, I would not add more than 1, although at some point it may very well end up crab food anyway.> I would love to have a fish. <Too small.> What fish will do okay in that small a tank? <None> I want an active fish. <Definitely too small for any active fish.> Since they're cheap and small, what about a single damsel? <Gets too big, too active.> I know people recommend a clown goby but they're small and probably hide. <Or end up starving, or crab food.> I also don't want the crab to pester the fish. <Crabs love small fish that have no where to run.> I'd also love a shrimp. I can't have one in my 12 gallon for fear he'd eat my feather dusters (all hitchhiked worms). Is there any shrimp that would get along with the crabs, or are they just likely to attack each other as I'd guess? <If the crab can catch it it will eat it.> Finally, with the new light, I thought I'd try a few mushroom or polyp corals knowing that the crabs may one day eat some. This tank is for the crabs first unlike the 12 gallon so I will forgive them if they eat everything else. <Stick with the mushrooms, most other corals are too sensitive for such a small, dynamic environment.> Grabby (Mithrax) is about an inch across while Scary (unknown hitchhiked crab) is less than half a inch. Thanks. <Scary may end up in Grabby's stomach if given the chance.> <Chris> Nano tank questions, stkg, inherent limitations 7/12/08 Greetings WWM crew <Hello Sean! Benjamin here!> I have a question about chemistry, and also lighting for a Crocea clam. But first some background: I am a bit of a crazy jerk, with what I think is a WAY overstocked 20gal long Nano: 2 ocellaris, 1 bicolor Dottyback, 2 peppermint shrimp, large brittle star, sand sifting star, 2 Tonga fighting and one queen conch, about 10 Ceriths,. 5 Astreas, about 5 or so blue leg hermits, about 1.5sq foot surface area of my live rock is covered in Zoanthids, 2 small finger leathers, one 9 inch Deresa (got him when he was only 3 inches - he may soon go back to LFS store for trade/credit - TOO BIG now - if he slams his shell, it ejects water from the tank and sometimes hits the lighting) and one 3 inch Crocea. Various sponges (blue and white encrusting types mostly) The above is not TOO badly overstocking (except the Deresa), But... Get this: a *yellow tang*. <Another victim of yellow tang mania...poor fish> Yep, in a 20 long. For two years now. Believe it or not, he's fine and happy (he's small, though) Eating well, good color. He acts more like a puffer (personality wise) than a tang - he actually greets me when I come to the tank, will eat Nori right out of my hand... I got him when he was only 1.5 inches long. LFS tells me he was collected off of Christmas island. Now he's about 4 inches. Eventually (soon!) he WILL need a bigger tank, of course. Which will likely mean I trade him back to LFS for a new baby 1.5 inch tang. <Trade back for something else...health wise, a 1.5" tang should really have just as much space to live as a full-grown one> Or I may just bite the bullet and get a "real" tank. <Now you're speaking my language...> Things are lit with a single 150 watt AquaLine AB HQI 20000K bulb (yes, I know, 10000K or better yet a 6500K would give better PAR, but I like blue!) Aqua C Nano remora skimmer with the stock MaxiJet 900 replaced with a 1200. JBJ Nano chiller. 2 MaxiJet 1200's for circulation, alternating between the two on a 15 minute timer. (which means I have a total of 4 MaxiJet 1200's in that little tank - 1 for chiller, one for skimmer, 2 for circulation) I have a 4.5 inch sandbed, and about 10lbs live rock Water parameters: Specific gravity 1.025 Temp is kept around 77F. 8.1-8.4PH (and its LOWER in evening!?! I'll explain my theory of the swing presently) 8-10dKH, calcium 380-400. All nitrogen waste stuff is 0 or close enough that my SeaTest kit can't see any (including nitrates) Phosphates don't register on my SeaTest kit either. I lose about .25 to .33 gal a day to evaporation. I top off twice daily with RO. <Buffered, I hope?> About the swing... those parameter swings are DAILY! What bugs me is the reverse of normal for the PH swing: Lower after the lights are on all day? My theory is: the swing seems to be due to a combo of factors: the big Deresa in a tank with so little water volume? (figure maybe 12 gals total actual water in there) -- Calcium and carbonates seem to get sucked out fast -. Although there may be some anoxic chemistry in the sand bed driving down the PH as well -- denizens are awake and making more nitrogenous waste during the day, drive the anaerobic bacteria more... also the evaporation can't be helping. Things drop, and I add 2 part (b ionic) and bring it back up each day. I have to take a bit of water out and replace it with RO to compensate so the salinity stays stable. (or more correctly, the specific gravity, since I use a hydrometer for testing) I noticed I can get a bit less swing if I dose a little magnesium and try to keep dKH more close to 12 and the calcium nearer 400. Don't want to move to a calcium reactor because I have PH drops enough as is. Tried Kalkwasser for a while, (manual drip) but 2 part seems easier. Short of getting more water volume (which is the correct answer of course) do you have any suggestions? most 20 long tanks seem to be all tempered, so drilling so that I can add a sump is no good. And of course hang on overflow boxes can lose their siphon, jam up, and my landlord would NOT appreciate the contents of even a small sump being on my floor. <Do make sure your RO contains appropriate buffer to pH adjust, and to match the alkalinity your tank loses through the day. A small tank will tend to have larger alkalinity loss- and very rapid, to boot> On to the lighting question: I used to have a CoraLife 14000K HQI over the tank. Before that I had one 10000K 65w PC and one actinic 65w PC (CoraLife) With the PC's I had good coralline growth. When I switched to the HQI, all the coralline that was in direct light turned white on me within 3-4 days. (stuff in more shaded areas was OK) I switched to the bluer bulb, and it came back. I had gotten the HQI so that I could keep a nice little blue Crocea in there. He liked the 14000K. He does NOT seem to like the 20000K as much. He has less color now. <Yes....20K bulb is about 1/2 or less the light (lumens AND PAR) of a 10K> Question: since the tank is only 12 inches high anyway, and the bottom 4.5 inches is sand, he is only in 7.5 inches depth when I have him on the substrate. Would moving him up another 4-5 inches make much difference? <Not much...with this spectrum> I could do this, but then he'll attach to the rock, and then it's a pain if I have to move him. He's so small the standard "put him an empty shell and let him attach to that" is not practical IMO - he and the shell will likely get knocked off the rocks. Substrate is the preferable location if he can get enough light there, IMO. -Sean <Benjamin> Tuxedo Urchin for 29 gallon tank 7-11-08 Hello all, <How goes it? Mike here this afternoon> I recently purchased a tuxedo urchin to help combat my growing hair algae before it became a problem. I understand that keeping my water conditions under control is the best way to combat this problem but I seem to be loosing ground and the algae is still spreading. I'm also having difficulty eliminating Cyanobacteria but the problem seems to be better under control than before. <As always, excess nutrients are the main factor here, and too little water flow with regards to the Cyanobacteria> I refuse to put any strange chemicals in my tank and I'm unsure where to draw the line with things like activated carbon. <Chemicals are not the answer; though chemical absorbents (activated carbon, and synthetics like Purigen, Poly Filter, and various phosphate 'sponges' are very helpful, and should be used. I hope you're also using a protein skimmer!> Here is some history on my tank. Up and running since end of February 29 gallon BioCube w/ stock pump, Stock lights (35 watt PC day light, 35 PC actinic, LED moonlights) Hydor Koralia #3 power head Hydor Koralia #1 power head (got this to help eliminate the Cyano) <Just make sure the flow is as random and turbulent as you can make it - laminar streams are always a bad idea> 37 lbs LR in tank 6 lbs of LR in filter (bioballs removed) 20 lbs LS Livestock 2 true Percula clowns 1 orange spotted watchman goby 1 six line wrasse 1 emerald crab 1 cleaner shrimp 1 anemone crab 2 medium size brittle stars (one came as a surprise with a coral) mixed CUC of red and blue leg hermits, margarita snails, and Nassarius snails. Corals Mixed Zoas Mixed mushrooms Wellsophyllia Brain coral Frogspawn Candy Cane Bubble Coral <I like LPS too> SG 1.025 pH 8.4 amm 0 trite 0 trate 5ppm phos 0 cal 450 KH 161 ppm <All good> 7 gallon RO (maybe DI... I get the water from my LFS) water change weekly...never go longer than 7 days. <Excellent> A few months back my nitrates got up to 20ppm because I was taking water from my QT, which had high amm, trite, and trate (I made a poor assumption that the water levels were good...never assume, I know), and putting it in my display tank. I suspect this might have been the start of my hair algae issue. <Most likely> Needless to say that I immediately stopped as soon as I determined the problem. I finally got my nitrates down to 5ppm when I changed my tank over (My BioCube sprung a leak, oceanic graciously sent me a brand new tank). <They have been good to me, as well> The tank change over brought my nitrates back up to 20 ppm but other levels remain good. I did water changes every 2-3 days for a little over a week and levels finally dropped to 5ppm. <Good - keep on top of those water changes with nitrate free replacement water, and the nuisance algae should slowly recede> Unfortunately I have little money and don't have a skimmer (I know oceanic makes one for my tank but I have yet to hear if it is any good or not). <Any skimmer is better than no skimmer, and you need a skimmer> Ok I think that is more than enough background. Sorry for being long winded but all these factors I believe contributed to my hair algae. So this leads me to the tuxedo urchin. I have always liked the way they looked and when I heard they ate hair algae I thought great. When I bought him I knew he would eat coralline algae, I figured this was acceptable to a certain degree. Also most of my corals are fairly well glued/wedged in place so I thought I would take the risk on the bulldozer affect. I regularly post on a website forum and when I mentioned I had a tuxedo urchin a few people started warning me about how these guys can be an issue... got me nervous. Did I totally under estimate how much of a pain in the butt this guy is going to be? <A ~3" tuxedo urchin will slowly starve in an aquarium that size...I've seen them slowly starve in well maintained aquariums twice as big as yours due to lack of algae to eat. Miraculously, you actually received somewhat good advice from a forum. Who would have though? Reefcentral and the like are a plague to this hobby, IMO> Ultimately here is my question. Is the urchin doomed to die in my tank? I know the size is smaller than most reef owners would recommend but I couldn't find any information on what a minimum tank size for a tuxedo urchin is. Also is this cool looking guy going to just start reeking havoc on my tank? I'm wondering if I should bring him back to the LFS and just deal with the hair algae the old fashioned way (what ever that is exactly). <Avoid the urchin, for the sake of the animal's long term health> Anyway thanks for any help you can give! <Anytime. I was patient and answered all of your questions here, but realize that all of the answers to these simple questions could be found via a 10 minute perusal of our archives. Please take advantage of our search function in the future> Best regards, Sean <Anytime - M. Maddox> What do you think about my tank, Marine Setup 5/2/08 Hello my name is Sony Onatte and I am a newbie in terms of saltwater tanks, although I have had a freshwater tank for about 2 years. <Hello> I started my saltwater tank around mid January 2008. I have a 30 gal long Aqueon (all glass) tank, 20lbs of live sand, at least 40lbs of live rock and an extra 4 lbs of live rock rubble in an AquaClear 110 that only has the rubble and ceramic holes in it. Although they said it couldn't be done; my filtration system is made up of (2) AquaClear 110's (500gph)one with just rubble and ceramic and the other with one foam pad ceramic hole and a Chemi pure pad with a prefilter pad on the entrance to both intakes. I have an AquaC remora with a MaxiJet pump 1200 (295gph) with prefilter box, and have modified it by connecting a tube to the cup and draining it so the skim never falls back into the tank due to overflow. 1 AquaClear 70 (400gph) and a Hydor Koralia 2 (600gph) power heads. My lighting system is a Current USA power compact with Dual Daylight Lamp (6700K & 10,000K), 1 Dual Actinic Lamp (420nm/460nm) and 3 Lunar Lights. Which the actinic turn on at 8am -- 10pm and the daylight 12pm -- 8pm then the lunar's turn on. <Ok> I have 2 small black Amphiprion ocellaris and 2 small orange Amphiprion ocellaris, <Chances are one pair will kill off the other in this sized tank. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfishart2.htm > 1 small flame angel, <Needs a larger tank http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/angels/Centropyge/loricula.htm > 2 small engineer goby's, < Pholidichthys leucotaenia? They get huge. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pholodichthyidae.htm > and 1 green spotted dragonet. <Also needs a much larger and mature tank, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mandarins.htm .> 20 -- 25 scarlet crabs and zebra's. 15 snails, 1 lettuce slug, 2 scarlet shrimp, 1 camel and 1 peppermint shrimp, <the camel has been known to get aggressive.> 1 two in maxima clam and a 3 in Crocea clam, 1 sand sifting starfish <the star needs a larger tank and will clean out your live sand bed, making it not so live.> and at least 2500 cope and other pods. As for corals I have a 3in Mycedium sp, 3 in encrusting purple Montipora nodosa, 4in Trachyphyllia radiate, 3in Turbinaria peltata, 4 stalks of pulsating xenia, 3in hammer coral pink, 3in green frogspawn, 3 stalk grey frogspawn, orange and pink Zoo's and green Zoo's, 2 different species of trumpet corals and tiny Actinodiscus sp. <You have a lot of life in a new tank, need to slow down here.> I supplement the tank with Kent marine: ZooPlex, iodine, Xtreme garlic, and marine C. Brightwell aquatics: zooplanktos S, zooplanktos m, zooplanktos L, alkaline 8.3m and liquid reef. I also feed marine S and new life spectrum, brine shrimp, Mysis, and squid. My nitrate, nitrite, ammonia are all at 0. My ph is at 8.2, DKH 11, and calcium 470. I started to add fish in Feb because my tank cycled fast since I used live water, live sand and live rocks. <Cycling is not all that happens, new tanks are prone to rapid shift is water parameters, not all of which are measure/tested.> Everything was at zero and ph was stable before I added fish though. All my corals are doing fine and have been for a while and some have actually grown in these few months. Now that this is all been said I just wanted to know if my lighting is insufficient for my inhabitants and what you thought of my set up. I know this might be a little crowded even though everything is very small now. I'm planning to upgrade to a bigger tank in a year or so. Also if you had any tips or recommendations for a beginner like me let me know. Sony M. Onatte <I would think about removing all the fish except 1 pair of clowns, the others are not appropriate for this sized tank. Also, while you have chosen generally hardy corals you will most likely run into problems with allelopathy with so many corals in such a small tank. Frequent water changes will be necessary to keep these chemicals in check.> <Chris> Nano Tank Fish Stocking Options 4-19-08 Hi crew,
<Yunachin here.> I would really like some ideas for a fish that
would get along with a purple Firefish [slightly aggressive] and it
would be in a 12g Nano tank. I've tried a bi-colored blenny and a
neon goby and both ended up dying. I was considering a clown goby or a
green damsel, but there seems to be conflicting ideas about these fish
as far as ease of keeping them happy and healthy in my set up. I'm
quite confused and any good ideas would be appreciated. Thanks so much!
<I would try a Percula clownfish as they can tolerate the small
space and can hold their own when it comes to a more aggressive tank
mate. Also 6 Line Wrasse are another good option, just make sure you
have a secure top as they have been known to be jumpers. --Yunachin>
Pregnant Pom Pom Crab? Stocking errors in small SW volume 4/13/08 Hello, You guys (and girls) rock! I just bought a Pom Pom Crab. I have done a lot of research about them on the web and they looked like a great addition to my Nano ten gallon tank, which is currently holding my fire/dart fish, a black Brittlestar, and a sexy anemone shrimp, with a few coral frags. He (or she?) is acclimating right now as I type. When I placed the bag into the tank I could see the little guy a lot better and I noticed a mass of red eggs on the stomach. They look just like the eggs of a glass shrimp, but they are red and a little smaller. I was wondering if indeed they are eggs and if so is there any possibility of me being able to hatch and raise these awesome little guys? <Mmm, yes> I know a lot of crabs go through a free floating "zooplankton"-like phase. <A few actually> Is it the same with the Pom Pom Crab? <A variation on the theme, yes> Also I was wondering about my fire dart fish. <Microdesmids need more room than this... Nemateleotris is a social species...> He used to be in my larger tank with a yellow tang, an ocellaris clown, and a starry dragonet. The ocellaris clown fish picked on him mercilessly over the past week to the point that I pulled him out into my Nano tank. It was my belief that the ocellaris clown fish was more peaceful then others in the clown fish family. Is this not true? <Are territorial...> I'm I not feeding enough or maybe not the right food (Formula 1 from ocean nutrition)? Thank you for all your help! Sincerely, Michael J. <Mmm, please see WWM re the care of the species you list... you've got some errors to correct. Bob Fenner>
Stocking/Compatibility Questions, sm. reef 3/20/08 Hi guys <Hi Ben> Ben here from Sydney Australia. <And James from Michigan, USA.> I own a 35 gal reef tank. Consisting of a home made sump with wet\dry filter (sump 20 gal}. And am also running a protein skimmer, and a canister filter, and carbon in my overflow box. Live stock consists of 2 small hammer corals, 2 small Cataphyllias, 1 Fungia (plate), 1 toadstool (leather), 1 purple xenia 1 pulsing white xenia. 3 small Trachyphyllia, And some daisy polyps. Also have one sand anemone and 5 very small native waratah anemones. The little waratahs hang out in the cover of darkness under my rocks just like they do here in the wild in oz. And have so far posed zero threat to anything at all. I don't believe they need any real lighting also. <I believe you are incorrect here. Read here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/coldanemfaqs.htm> Also got 6 black Nerite snails and 6 zebra Trochid snails. And a considerable number of little brown starfish which came on the live rock I bought. Also the starfish are multiplying!! Much to my happiness <Good!> I have one fish so far as well which is a teardrop sleeper goby (Valenciennea strigata). He's great, goes around sifting and doing a brilliant job. Had him for just over 2 months now. Ok so down to my questions. So far my tank has been running for 5 months. Now recently I've had a tiny outbreak of green algae on some of my rocks. Are turbo snails any good? <Yes, most all snails available in the trade will consume algae, diatoms, excess food, etc.> Should I purchase some? <I would, two or three should be enough.> And are there any good clean up crews that wont harm my star fish or eat my xenia? <Blue legged hermits are my favorite and no threat to others. Do read here and linked articles/FAQ's above. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marscavart.htm> Also I wish to add maybe a few more fish in given time (no rush though). Any thoughts on how many fish or what kinds for my set up? <All depends on size. Again, do read here and related articles/FAQ's. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/reeflvst.htm> Also I was thinking of maybe one lone lion fish. What do you think? But I would be more then happy to have a few other fish if no to the lion. <A good waste producer and tank is too small.> Would a blue tang be ok as well with my goby all is my tank to small for a tang? <Too small, need much more swimming room than a 35 can provide.> I'm very sorry to ask so many questions but I love learning more and think you guys have the best info site around. <Best way to learn is by reading. Do search our site, tons of info is available therein.> Hope you can shed some light on my questions. Thanks in advance. Hope to hear from you soon. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Will this setup work... SW... bonsai city! -03/18/08 I have recently purchased a small 4 inch snowflake moray. I have been keeping it in a small separator in my 33 gallon tank which houses a 2 inch frogfish and a 3 inch Picasso trigger. I am planning change the tank to a 75 gallon tank when the eel grows bigger. Will this work? <Hmm, probably not... and you will need a MUCH bigger tank for the trigger in any case. Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/triggers/index.htm> Because I have read many articles that eels can and can't be kept with frogfish. <Perhaps, but not so much in a 75g tank. Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/snowflakemoray.htm Best, Sara M.> Nano SW stkg. 3/12/08 Thanks for all the help and the great website. I am planning a Nano tank and wondered if you could give me your opinion before I make any mistakes! The tank is a 14 gallon BioCube with an eight gallon fuge/sump. Upgrades over the stock tank include a MaxiJet 900 and an auto top off. The tank has been set up for three months as a QT tank for one of our other tanks. The water parameters have remained quite stable (Ammonia, nitrIte: 0, nitrAte: less than 10, SG: 1.025, Temp. 78, pH: 8.1) despite QTing a rather large fish for two months. The tank has been running bare bottom with about 5 pounds of liverock. Clean up crew is assorted snails/crabs that hitchhiked on the liverock which came from our established reef. I plan to add liverock for a total of 15 pounds, about 2 inches of aragonite sand with a handful of crushed coral thrown in, a DSB in the fuge, and Gracilaria and live rock in the fuge. I have not been able to find much on Gracilaria on WetWeb.... is it an acceptable macroalgae for a small fuge? <Oh yes> The tank will have eight gallons of water AFTER the addition of the DSB. I thought Gracilaria would provide a treat for our tangs in our other tank. For livestock, I would like a pair of high fin gobies (Stonogobiops nematodes) with their pistol shrimp. The liverock will be stacked on the glass to allow as large an open sandbed as possible. The plan with corals would be a few (3 to 4) colonies of mushrooms. Does this sound ok assuming diligent water changes? <Should work> So...am I pushing it if I added a small frogspawn with the mushrooms (too much allelopathy)? <Too likely so, yes> Also, I have a four inch rock covered in Palythoas in the tank b/c it was an extra from our reef. Should this be moved back to the other tank to avoid allelopathy or am I ok here? <I would at minimum carefully acclimate (by cross-mixing waters twixt systems over months) these two groups> So, basically, is the tank big enough for the pair of gobies and the shrimp and am I ok with mushrooms plus either a small frogspawn or large rock of Palythoas? Thank you! Michele <Welcome. Bob
Firefish addition & ... stkg. small SW Hi, I have been pouring over your site for a couple of months and it was invaluable in helping me set up my tank, thanks very much to your wonderful crew! <Welcome> Background on my tank: it is a BioCube 29; still using the bio balls and stock filtration, but with a skimmer on the way; 34 pounds of live rock and 20 pounds of live sand. Inhabitants are: 1 Coral Beauty, <Needs more room than this... by far> 1 Gold Head Sleeper Goby, 1 Red Spotted Scooter Blenny, 2 True Percula Clownfish (tank bred), 1 bubble tip anemone, <Dangerous here...> 1 Firefish Goby, 1 Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, and various hermits and snails. I set up my tank and allowed it to cycle for two weeks, then began adding the cleanup crew of hermit crabs and snails. Noted large numbers of copepods and feather dusters coming out of the rock. After 3 weeks I began adding the current inhabitants. My question involves my Firefish. Since he has been added, he has been hiding in the back of the tank behind the live rock, <... this species needs a minimum (of the stated on WWM...) two square feet of bottom... to itself... and is not a solitary...> only venturing out rarely (only seen him come out into the front of the tank once in 3 weeks) or slightly more frequently hovering over the rock. I would like to introduce another Firefish in order to maybe coax it to come out more often. Now I have read you should only keep 1 male per tank. I am not sure whether I have a male or female, how can I tell? <Mmm, not easy w/o the animals being "side by side"... best to have a group, let them sort themselves out... or buy as "pairs"> I tried searching WetWebMedia and the Internet and all I have found is this, "It is hard to tell the difference between male and female but the length of their dorsal fin may be different.". Also, if I can determine if I have a male or female, as they were not introduced at the same time, will introduction of another Firefish at this time be hazardous? <... this system is too small for Nemateleotris, or Centropyge... had you read...> Oh and in case you are wondering, the scooter is doing fine, grazing all the time, and although I no longer see copepods running all over the tank, they are still present when I closely inspect my rock, and he has been taking some prepared foods. I have some Cyclop-eeze on order that I have seen others have had success in target feeding scooter blennies, just hope I can wean the scooter onto it, it will make me feel better. I was not aware when I got him how slow, methodical, and finicky eaters they are. Thanks much, Karl <Save up for a larger system; return the two fish... Bob Fenner>
39 reef bow tank, Stocking and Nitrate 3/2/08 Hi, my name is Chris, I want to thank you in advance for any help you may give me on this issue I am having with my reef tank . <Hello Chris, glad to help.> I've had this tank set up for about 6 months now and am experiencing some problems, not major problems but I want to control what I can before it becomes a major one . <OK> Parameters are as follows: Alk 9.8, ph 8.2, amm 0, nitrate is between 10-20 ppm, and is controlled with water changes weekly but a day or two after the change it creeps back up . <A sign of something amiss.> I am running a 10 gallon sump with about a gallon of bio balls in it, a Prizm skimmer and two power heads in the tank; and I am down to feeding only once a day if that. I only feed what is consumed in two to three minutes and if the nitrates go up I may skip a day. <Be sure the food is consumed as it is added. You can easily add too much food that appears to be consumed in three minutes, with much going elsewhere.> The feeding varies from frozen to pellets daily and the live stock is as follows: mostly soft corals , polyps and mushrooms and a leather coral and one open brain , fish are a tomato clown , six bar goby , basset , small yellow tang . <Your tank is too small for this livestock.> Should I remove the bio balls . <If you have enough live rock (25-30 lbs. In this system) I would.> Thanks for the help. <A few links for further reading are included below for you. Welcome, Scott V.> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/zebrasom.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm
|
|
|
Features: |
|
| Featured Sponsors: |
