FAQs about Elegance Coral Health/Disease &
FAQs on Elegance Coral Disease:
Elegance Coral Disease/Pests
1, Elegance Coral Health
2, Elegance Coral Health
FAQs on Elegance Disease by Category:
Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...),
Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy),
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
Articles on: Coral Pests and Disease; pests,
predators, diseases and conditions by Sara Mavinkurve,
Catalaphyllia Coral, Caryophylliids, Large Polyp Stony
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease by Category: Diagnosing,
Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...),
Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy),
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
Elegance Corals, Elegance Corals 2, Elegance Coral Identification, Elegance Coral Behavior, Elegance Coral Selection, Elegance Coral Compatibility, Elegance Coral Selection, Elegance Coral Systems, Elegance Coral Feeding, Elegance Coral Reproduction, Caryophyllid ID, Caryophyllid Compatibility, Caryophyllid Systems, Caryophyllid Selection, Caryophyllid Behavior, Caryophyllid Feeding, Caryophyllid Disease, Caryophyllid Propagation/Reproduction,
Elegance coral, dying in/comp.
My Elegance Coral died so I removed it and did a water change. Same
night I lost 80% of snails then 5 days later 2 clowns and a blenny
started to act funny then passed. Do you think the Elegance dying could
have created that or a chemical. (all crabs and shrimps not affected)
<Almost certainly it was caused by toxins released by your Elegance
coral dying; do a large water change,40-50% and use a Polyfilter pad
combined with a high grade activate carbon or ChemiPure, a couple of
days later try adding some "test" fishes like bluetail Damsels
(Chrysiptera sp). Please keep us posted on how it goes. Wil>
Troubled Elegance; rdg. 1/22/16
<Is there a full moon? Why don't you/folks read, follow our directions for file
Before I took the risk of buying an Elegance Coral, I read countless articles. I
came to the conclusion that if I didn't put powerheads on it with SPS lighting
intensity I would be the success story!
Ha! I've had my coral about a week, and it has stubby tentacles and looks
bloated. I don't know if it is doomed at this point.
<Just read my bit on WWM re Catalaphyllia. Bob Fenner>
I was hoping to get an opinion on my lighting. It is a 7' long, 24" deep, 24"
wide tank. I have a 48" Orbit led by Current and two 48" 54watt t5s (I have the
t5s only on 6 hours). These are centered leaving the sides of the tank to be
left dimmer. I placed the Elegance in the brighter part of the dim section of
the tank (I hope this makes sense). Is it possibly getting
too much light? I have attached a picture. Thanks for your time.
Sent from my Sprint Phone.
Worried about or Elegance Coral; no data, rdg.
Thank you for all your valuable information on your website but I fear that we
are still concerned and want to tap your knowledge and expertise to see if we
can reverse any negative effects that our elegance coral is suffering right now.
Over night we have what appears the disintegration of the center section of our
elegance coral see picture attached). Is it the positioning, an infection or
something else altogether.
<Can't tell w/ the lack of data....>
Is there something we can do, please help!
<Move the specimen to a "dirtier" setting.... like a refugium w/ mud.... is
there measurable N, P, K present?>
We love this beauty and would be so sad to see it go. Should we be concerned
about our other corals if it is indeed an infection, we obviously don't want our
other corals to suffer a similar fate.
Thank you so much in advance!
<.... have you read on WWM re Catalaphyllia? Bob Fenner>
Elegance coral and worms in skeleton
It's been ages since I've had to ask you guys for some help, usually
reading through is all I need to do as you guys have so much knowledge
on so many topics already. It's fantastic and super helpful in this
About 6 weeks ago a bought a small elegance, it was bagged and a
acclimated it to the tank through drip, placed it on the sand in my
tank, 30 inches below a 40 watt LED DIY light.
<Should be fine... at this "great" depth and lowish light... See my art.
re Catalaphyllia captive husbandry on WWM. There are "stands" of this
species from shallower (tens of feet) depths, but most in the last
several years have been collected from several tens of feet... low
It's been happy, getting fed Mysis, brine, and it's also been taking
spectrum pellets which happen to fall into it every second day or so.
Tonight it closed up and I noticed three circular dents in the skeleton,
which indented into the fleshy part of the coral. I noticed one of this
dents when I placed it in the tank, but I thought they were empty and
harmless misshapes in the rock. However tonight it appears to be that
the little holes/dents actually contain flat headed cream coloured worms
approx 6mm in diameter.
<Mmm, more likely these are (mesenterial) parts of the Elegance itself;
showing themselves... >
They emerge from these hollow dents and are sensitive to light, when a
torch is shined on them, they retract into the tubes which are embedded
in the skeleton. The elegance seems to have grown around them, despite
the animal being an entire cone itself, not fragmented off a reef.
<Yes; this is how this species "grows", lives... as a sort of "V" stuck
in muck, bottom sand plus>
I'm not sure if they pose a problem, and am curious is some kind of dip
may be best to get rid of them? What are you thoughts?
<Leave all as is, and do read the materials on WWM if you haven't
Thanks very much,
<As many welcomes. Bob Fenner>
Re: Elegance coral and worms in skeleton
Thanks for such a prompt reply, ill take a photo of the 'worms' next
time I see them. It's more a tube worm facing up out of the skeleton
rather than the small worm like filaments that are actually
mesenterial... But I could easily be wrong haha. What I'm seeing are
similar to worms which emerge out of large circular tubes on live rock
<A possibility; and quite common is some Poritids, Pocilloporids... Have
rarely seen/encountered in Catalaphyllia... are perhaps "too stinging",
You don't think the lighting level may be too low?
<I'd use a PAR or PUR meter, measure at the place/site of the
specimen... a score of 100 is fine here. BobF>
Elegance Coral... rdg. 1/31/13
Hi Crew, I have a question about a elegance coral. I think I might made
a boo boo. I went to my local fish store and bought this coral. It is
green with purple tips, and is gorgeous. Well I don't think it is the
version from Australia, I think it the other. So think I made a mistake.
Should I take it back?
<See WWM re Catalaphyllia>
It has been in my tank for about six hours now. I tried to feed it Mysis
with a turkey baster and did not want food, and it did not stick to the
tentacles. Is this a bad sign or is it still acclaiming and I am
freaking out over nothing? Should I use tweezers to feed it next time?
Here is a picture of it. I am just getting back into the reef tank world
again. I bought a 29gallon biocube from a friend to start out before I
Thanks for your time.
<... read, heed. BobF>
Re: Elegance Coral 2/2/13
Bob, How do you get them to take food? I have feed mine twice now. Mysis
<Need meatier, larger fare>
yesterday when lights were on and tonight when lights are off. I used a
Turkey baster both times and read a lot of articles about them being swelled
up, short tentacles, but still lost on feeding. I got him in the sand
horizontal , with very little flow going his way. I do not want to pollute
my tank with wasted food. There are only two inquires under Elegance feeding
<Really? Just checked and you're right... Not to worry, this species is a
voracious feeder when it's ready, healthy. Have patience. Bob Fenner>
I read lots of articles, but not what i am looking for. Please help
Re: Elegance Coral 2/3/13
Bob, thank you I feel much better. Have a good day.
<Thank you Jim. Did you see/read my olde article on keeping the species:
Harder to keep specimens from Indo. nowayears. Bob Fenner>
Re: Elegance Coral
Bob, Yes I did. I did not try to feed him yesterday, but will try again
today. I will let you know what happens. Thanks, Jim P.S. Go Ravens!
<Heeee! I take it this Corvus reference has to do w/ spectator sports.
Re: Elegance Coral 2/3/13
My lights just came on and the coral is swollen with white snot on it. I
read a post back in 2006 somebody wrote in and you said it could affect
other corals. Should I remove and take it back to my lfs and throw it at
them? This is why I only by <buy> from live aquaria and not my lfs. Jim
<Likely too late to be moving... I'd leave in place. B>
|Re: Elegance Coral
Ok thank Bob. Fish are so much easier. This is why I have a 180 Fowlr and
not a 180 reef. 29Gall biocube is fun for getting back into reef. I should
of read more about the elegance before I bought it. Happy diving!!
Info on Elegance Coral 11/17/12
I hope you can help me out a little bit here. I just have a two question
for my Elegance Coral. 3 weeks back I bought a new Elegance coral, It
did well for first week then half of the coral went retracted for day or
two then inflated fully very nicely swaying tentacles stretched and
week two went fine like that then couple of days back coral went
retracted for two days again but it was inflating about 25% to its full
size every now and then . Now for past two days it is inflating but
50%~70% of its maximum, is this its normal behaviour.
<Better for it to eventually re-inflate to full size, but not abnormal>
Second Question: Today evening I noticed the Coral sprayed out some
white slimy / mucus particles from space between its skeleton and Flesh
(disc of Tentacles) , and I noticed My Yellow Tang ate that slimy mucus
thing, My Fairy Wrasse, and Yellow Tang slightly nipped on the coral as
Is my coral sick and what was that slime thing?
<Tissue... not good>
if Toxic why would Yellow Tang feast upon it?
<Not toxic; perceived as food>
, I have also added some Seachem Phytoplankton twice in this span of
<For what purpose/s? Not a food...>
I have other corals that seem fine (Magnificent Anemone, Zoanthids,
Mushrooms, Trumpet, Finger Leather Coral, Toadstool Mushroom, Xenia,
Flowerpot, Frogspawn, Orange Sea Sponge)
<Mmm, well, these aren't all corals, and many are dangerously
allelopathogenic... Not compatible. Could be an/the issue w/
your Catalaphyllia. Umm, read here:
and the linked files above, till you grasp the gist...>
Fish: Pair of Clown Fish Normally Spawning every 3rd Week, 1-Yellow
Tang(small 2"), 1-Fairy Wrasse.
SG: 1.024 PH:8.2 KH:9 Ammonia:0, NO2: 0, NO3: 10, PO4:
0.025, Calc: 400, Mag:1200, Temp:81F lighting: MH 1x150w
1400K+ 2x20w T5 + 2x20w Actinic (Tank Size:40G +15G sump)
<Uhh, and read here:
and all the Related FAQs files linked above re this species. Bob
Elegance frag separated from shell...rdg.
I successfully fragged my elegance about 6 months ago (I know, stupid
idea but my beginners luck paid off). Today I found the smallest of the
frags had separated from it's shell.
<Mmm, skeleton... not shell>
It looks perfectly healthy otherwise. The larger frags look fine as
Right now, it's drifting around when I turn the filters on. Any tips on
reestablishing the shell?
<I'd wrap (loosely) some monofilament or stout thread about the tissue
and the detached skeleton>
(calcium? Or is it too late?) I don't want to glue the underside.
Water temperature is around 82, other tank conditions are normal. Tank
is a 34 gallon RSM.
<... Read here:
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Elegance frag separated from shell 9/23/12
Thanks for your tip. I read online that elegance corals drop buds
occasionally. Do you think the elegance bud will grow a new skeleton if
it finds a safe place to recover?
<No... highly unlikely... it will probably die... I'd be... reading. B>
Catalaphyllia Chilled 11/1/11
Good morning all.
<Good morrow Beth!>
I have a question regarding the recovery of Catalaphyllia after
exposure to cold water. We had a lovely October snow storm and the
power went out in my house while I was at my mothers wedding. The set
up is a 125 mixed reef that has been running for 6 or 7 years. The
water temperature was down to 69 degrees Fahrenheit when I got home and
started the generator. It took 24 hours to get the tank back up to 74
which is where I usually keep it (I realize it is a rather abrupt
change but so was the drop in temp).
All corals appear to have recovered except the 2.5 year old elegance.
The poor thing has shriveled up and although the tentacles and feeding
mouths are visible and the color is good, it is neither expanding nor
Shall I just leave it be and pray?
<Yes I would>
If there is no sign of recovery, should I remove it?
I know some of the more toxic species have a tendency to decline then
rapidly melt down, poisoning the tank in the process.
Average Temp 74 f
Spec Gravity 1.024
Nitrate 20ppm (ranges from 10-40 tank is heavily fed)
Lighting LED's (Elegance is not directly under lighting but rather
in front. Placement has always been buried in the sand bed as is
Water changes 30 gallons every 2 to 3 weeks
Feeding 2X a day making sure LPS get their own small bits (rather than
a large feeding every 2 or 3 days the LPS get whatever the fish get in
smaller, more frequent intervals. I always thought it would be closer
to their natural habits)
I will not include stock unless requested (too much). Suffice to say
that the Catalaphyllia has thrived for over 2 years and shown growth to
Fingers crossed for a positive response.
<Good. My experience has been that this genus/species is often
slow/er to recover from such environmental insults... As long as it is
not outright decomposing, I'd leave it be... where it is... and
offer some food every few days. Cheers! Bob Fenner>
Re: Catalaphyllia Chilled 11/4/11
Thank you Bob for your council of patience. The coral is expanded to
about 75% of its previous size and finally accepting food again.
I am sure that by the end of the weekend it will show no signs of last
week's stress. And to think I considered disposal.
<Well, I am an eternal "never say never" type re
livestock... HAVE witnessed so MANY times when what was apparently
gone... resurrected itself ala the Phoenix. Cheers, BobF>
Elegance Coral health problem
Greetings WWM crew. And apologies in advance for sending out a
redundant question; I see many people have had a similar issue to
the one I'm going to describe, but I have yet to find an
answer that matches my quandary or offers recommendations that
I've not already tried.
Over the last few days, my 2 month old
<I assume then that the other Cnidarians shown in your
tank/system image pre-date this introduction; including the
anemone in the left corner>
(since I purchased it) Aussie Elegance Coral won't
open fully. It's tentacles are partially inflated,
but it's oral disk remains closed and I haven't seen it
take food. My tank is a quite crowded but very
healthy 55 with an assortment of LPS, a few leathers, and
a couple of SPS. Specifications: 0 ammonia, nitrate and
nitrite, 8.2 ph, 11 alkalinity, 480 calcium, 1250 magnesium,
<Low in ratio to the CA, but not the issue here
a very slight trace of phosphates, and 1.026SG; 30 gallon
sump/refugium running 2 reactors (1 carbon, 1
<Perhaps this is a factor; nutrient deprivation...
Catalaphyllia live in nutrient rich mud... all chemoautotrophs
need measurable NO3, HPO4>>
T5 fixture with 3 actinic and 3 white; mediocre protein
(Coralife, but I forget the specific type) . The specimen in
question is positioned in the lower right corner of the tank,
somewhat shaded from my lights by a Kenyan tree leather about
12" above. Also, low flow (gentle movement of EC's
tentacles), and no direct contact with any other corals.
The EC was opening beautifully daily (filling up the entire
corner), until about a week ago when I found a yellow knobby sea
cucumber affixed to its skeleton/base. This Cuke seemed to be
bothering the EC (as that it was only partially open), so after
48 hours of not moving away from the EC, I physically removed it.
The EC's position in the tank has not changed, but since the
encounter it has failed to fully open again. It starts the day
quite contracted, but usually, around the time the lights go out,
it's about 1/3 - 1/2 its former size; however, it never opens
to its previous, impressive self.
I ran into a similar problem with my previous attempt to house an
I chalked the last death up to a negligent tank-sitter who
no-showed for the week I was vacationing, along with the fact
that it was a frag from a questionable LFS and so had encountered
earlier stress. This recent EC was not fragged,
<Not good candidates>
and came from a more reputable LFS. Also, I feed a variety of
frozen and liquid foods, target feeding the EC with oyster
Iodine supplement of 2 drops 2-3x per week. Using Salinity salt
mix, along with RO/DI water. Not sure what else I can tell you,
but if there's any information I left out please let me know
and I'll quickly respond.
The only other odd thing going on in this tank is a pipe organ
coral that has not opened in roughly 2 weeks. And yes, that is
one huge LTA in the left corner that I have tried to box in to
keep it from fighting the pagoda cup above. The new, massive tank
is coming, but not until next July when I've completed my
relocation 2000 miles from my current address.
Thanks in advance for any advice you may share.
<This is a classic case of allelopathy. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/elegcorcompfaqs.htm
and here: http://wetwebmedia.com/CorlCompArt.htm
And write back if you have further questions, concerns. Bob
Catalaphyllia at lower right
Re: Elegance Coral health problem 8/5/11
Bob, thanks much for the reply. To clarify, both of the pictures
at the same time. Most of the other tank inhabitants/Cnidarians
were established well before (several months to one year) the
Elegance was introduced. As for fragged EC's: are you saying
that it's best to buy ones
that have been fragged, and that unfragged EC's are 'not
<Sorry for the confusion. Mean/t that this species is not a
good candidate for dividing period. Doesn't take well to
Finally, do you think the reason the pipe organ is remaining
closed is also due to allelopathy?
<More likely from a lack of (chemical) nutrition>
I run generous amounts of carbon to help with the fighting, but
keep the EC in a low flow, solitary corner where detritus tends
to accumulate. Plus my red Goniopora is thriving, and I thought
they liked nutrient rich water as well.
<Mmm, well, the best course of action would have been and is
now to remove the Catalaphyllia, slowly acclimate it per the link
you were referred to; daily mixing of some water twixt
I sure love the hobby, but every day brings another lesson to be
And I never thought these animals would grow as fast as they
have! A larger tank can't come soon enough.
Best to you and your team,
Re: Elegance Coral health problem
I wanted to provide an update on my elegance coral in hopes
that it might help others with a similar problem. As the
picture I've attached indicates, the EC has drastically
improved since I first contacted you.
In order to help it out, I've done 2 ten gallon water
changes (using salinity salt mix) on my 55 system (with 30
gallon sump/refugium), added fresh black diamond carbon,
and most importantly (I think) started target feeding the
tank and EC specifically with reef nutrition Phyto-feast
To clarify: for some reason, when I ran out of the
phyto-feast several weeks ago, I didn't bother to
replace it since I had a similar frozen food on hand. Some
corals in my tank started looking a little rough, but I had
decided it was because of allelopathy rather than diet (as
that my tank is crowded and I had a declining sea fan). I
eventually remembered the change in diet, and when I
started back up with the liquid phyto feast things began to
turn around. The elegance coral, which had stopped opening
fully and was in quick decline (I often hear people
worrying about similar problems, which seems to elude
remedy), perked up shortly thereafter and is now eating
silversides. Its oral disc opens fully during the day, its
polyps are completely extended, and it only closes
partially once lights go out.
I don't know if it was one of these changes or all if
them in tandem that helped my EC to recover, but I thought
that sharing my positive experience might be helpful.
However, I should note that since regular water changes and
carbon use are standard for my set up, I'm inclined to
credit the return to phyto-feast as the most important
Hoping the positive turn lasts,
<Thank you for this follow-up. BobF>
Catalaphyllia jardinei Receding. Why?? :o(
/Catalaphyllia Health 11/11/10
Really devastated to right this msg :( My Catalaphyllia jardinei
was ok when I put it in a week ago but not any more. Here are
some pics I posted on UR for you to see:
I really love to save this beautiful coral but I honestly
don't know why..
<Start by reading/learning here and related articles/FAQs
found in the header.
Many thanks for your prompt reply guys..
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
A bit too close to the Zoanthid on its left. RMF
Re Catalaphyllia jardinei Receding. Why?? :o(
/Catalaphyllia Health 11/11/10 - 11/12/10
That's an old photo. Have moved the Catalaphyllia almost
20cm's fm the zoa's. Still not opening:(
<I've read where I referred you and there isn't too
much I can add to that other than the fact that they are
sensitive to many species of soft corals. Your substrate does not
appear to be to their liking as
they are found in soft sandy/muddy bottoms. Their tissue is
easily torn/punctured due to abrasion which can result from being
placed on coarse bottoms and/or among live rock. I suggest you
read again, especially the FAQs on Catalaphyllia health,
compatibility, and systems.
James (Salty Dog)><<Well-done/stated James,
Elegance Troubles/Catalaphyllia Systems/Health
I've been reading the FAQ about Elegance corals now I'm
more confused than I was before. To start I would like to cut and
paste a question that I posted on another board which is the
reason I started reading here in the first place.
"I added an Aussie elegance from Dr F&S on May 21st. It was
doing very well in my system until about two weeks ago. Around
the time the coral started going down hill the changes to the
tank were: 1. Added one rock Mag and two rock Mag Jr. http://aqua-mags.com/index.html
2. Added some Zoa frags (dipped in revive prior to adding to
tank) 3. The sediment and carbon block filters clogged on RO/DI
unit (I'm not sure how much water was produced using the rest
of the system) 4. Attached frags with a combo of super glue gel
and underwater epoxy putty. 5. Minor reaquascaping 6. Repaired
return plumbing leak. I noticed a drip from the threaded return
bulkhead. Tried to tighten and it cracked. All I had handy was a
slip/slip bulkhead so; I used PVC primmer/glue to replace the
bulkhead and a few fittings. I let it dry about six hours prior
to restarting the return pump. The hose between the pump and PVC
pipe popped off dumping 6 gallons of top off water into the
system. I didn't have enough mixed salt water on hand to
replace what was lost. While mixing a new batch of SW there was
another six hours with the return pump off. The only flow in the
tank while this was going on was two MP10's The coral looks a
little better than it did last week. It ate on Tuesday but not on
Thursday. I feed PE Mysis to my corals on Tu/Th/Su. Other things
I have done to try and bring it around are: 1. Replaced sediment
and carbon filters on RO/DI unit 2. Water change (only one though
I didn't want to make more water until I could change the
filters on RO/DI) 3. Changed carbon in reactor I also removed the
GFO so I could max out the flow through the carbon. I plan on
doing water and carbon change tomorrow. Should I dip the coral in
<Isn't going to help your problem.>
What else can I do to save this coral?" My tank is a
standard reef ready 75 Gal with 30 Gal sump. For filtration there
is 80lbs live rock, SWC Extreme160 protein skimmer, dual media
reactor that I use GFO and carbon in, I also have a refugium with
live rock rubble and Chaetomorpha algae. For in tank flow there
are two MP10's on random lagoon mode dialed back to about
60%. The lighting is a six bulb T5 fixture.
<The biggest problem I see here is too much water flow. Those
MP10's without a controller put out around 1500gph each, way
too much flow for Elegance Corals. Secondly, it sounds like your
system water is too pure. Elegance Corals do better with some
nitrates/nutrients present in the water.>
Tank parameters are: SG: 1.026 PH: 8.0 Ca: 450 Mg: 1500+ Alk: 7.4
DKH trying to raise to 8 Ammonia: 0 No2: 0 No3: 0 I have attached
three pictures the first a full tank shot was taken on July 25
while the coral was healthy the second was taken Aug 5th now that
its not doing so well. the final picture is of my fuge in
reference to question 5 Here are some of the questions I
developed while reading the FAQ 1. Is my substrate too course?
Mud or fine sand is mentioned
<Yes, the membrane on these corals cut very easily. Fine sand
2. Would two MP 10's on a 48" tank produce too much flow
for the elegance?
3. Does the center support on the tank shade the Elegance enough?
I can raise or lower the fixture as required.
<I do one thing at a time, and I would start with flow
reduction. Secondly, get the coral off the course substrate. As a
temporary means, place some fine sand in a small Rubbermaid
container and place the coral on the sand.>
4. Should I feed the coral PE Mysis or 1/4" sections of
frozen shrimp? 5. Is my fuge suitable to house my coral? (As a
last resort I like looking at it )
6. Should I not use GFO any more to help raise NO3 in my
<?? Ferric Oxide isn't going raise NO3.>
7. do you need any more information to help save my favorite
<Nope, you do. Read here and related articles/FAQ's.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Elegance Troubles/Catalaphyllia Systems/Health
8/7/10 - 8/14/10
I would like to do a follow up on the heath of my coral. It has
been about a week since I requested help as you can see by the
attached picture the coral is doing a little better.
<It seems to be doing a little better.>
I did notice some tissue necrosis earlier in the week but that
The corrective actions I have attempted are reducing the flow on
the left MP10 to 40% and the right one to 25%. I also moved the
coral to the right side of the tank placing it on a Tupperware
lid and surrounding it with a finer substrate. I have been trying
to stabilize alkalinity at 9.0 dKH with Seachem Reef Builder.
I'll be testing daily for another week until I can get a feel
for how much of a daily dose I will need to develop a routine. I
have also stopped target feeding the coral with PE Mysis as I
noticed one of my wrasses stealing food from it. The final thing
I have done is stop rinsing the food in an attempt to raise the
nutrients in the tank. I notice the greatest improvement with the
raise in alkalinity.
The current parameters are:
Alk 8.6 dKH
Mg 1500 <Too high, 1200-1300ppm>
Now on to the questions:
1. How long should I wait to try something else?
2. The current substrate is CaribSea Super Reef if I need to
change substrate in the whole tank what average grain size should
<I would go with sugar size grain such as CaribSea's
Aragamax Sugar Size Sand.>
3. How long should I keep that plastic lid under the coral?
<I see in this pic that the coral is attached to a piece of
live rock and not resting directly on the sand bed so you can
remove the plastic lid. You also mentioned a wrasse, if it is one
of the burrowing species, they much prefer a finer sand also.
Coarse sands tend to scratch their skin.>
4. What else can I do to improve the heath of the coral?
<Time and patience, and do read the link I referred you to
Thank-you for your time and support,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)
Re Elegance Troubles/Catalaphyllia Systems/Health
8/7/10 - 8/14/10 - 6/27/10
One more follow-up on my Elegance please. I've attached a
current picture of the elegance I've been writing about. As
you can see it is doing much better except the coloration has not
returned. It has been about two weeks since the last time I
wrote. How long should it take to color back up?
<Tough to answer, too many variables.>
The one thing we have not discussed is the lighting. I'm
using an AquaticLife six bulb T5 fixture eight inches over the
water. The bulbs are All the ATI brand, they are configured front
to back as follows:
Aqua blue special
Aqua blue special
The blue pluses/actinic are on ten hours a day and the aqua blue
specials are on for eight. The coral is located just to the left
of the cross brace on the sand bed 22 inches under the lights.
Should I make adjustment to the lighting?
<I would, you have way too much blue. I would replace the blue
plus and aqua blue special lamps with 10-12K lamps. These corals
need more of the "white" light to better promote
photosynthesis. The actinics will still give you that color
"pop" most folks desire.>
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
|Re Elegance Troubles/Catalaphyllia
Systems/Health 8/7/10 - 8/14/10 - 8/27/10
Oops, forgot to mention that indeed, your Elegance appears to be
James (Salty Dog)>