Brown Algae 7/30/08
Dear Mr. Bob Fenner
<Scott V. with you today.>
I have an 80G Marine tank with 2 Clarkii Clowns, 3 Large Tube Worms, Bubble tip Anemone, some snails, a microalgae colony & lots of live rocks with coral line algae. I use 6500K 500W (4 x 125) CFL lighting. I use a 4G Canister Filter, 5W UV Sterilizer, Remora hang on Skimmer (with 2000L/H separate power head), 2 Power heads (2000L/H), & Chiller.
The tank is running well. I do a 20% water change every month and feed my fish and invertebrates carefully. My water parameters are Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, and Nitrate < 100 (I am not so sure about the nitrates).
<You need to get this squared away, either another test kit that is easier to read or just flat out getting the nitrate lowered, tis the fuel for the algae.>
This tank has being running well for the past 1 year. I am introducing 1 Hippo Tang & 2 False Percula in a few days which are in the QT now . I am retuning the big Clarkii back to the LFS which is very aggressive towards my other small 1” Clarkii.
<The remaining Clarkii will likely pick on the False Percs in time, if not now.>
I have two issues that I need your help with. I have a brown algae bloom from the day I established the tank which forced me to buy an extra power head as advised by the LFS which by the way didn’t help.
<Flow is one factor of the equation.>
The brown algae are only on my back glass and on my sand. It grows so fast. I have to clean every 5 days just to control it on my sand. I am NOT using live sand as a 2 inch layer of white granules (which are close to sand particles) were given to me when I bought the tank.
<I would decrease this sand level to 1” or increase to 4”+. 2” catches you between the easy to clean shallow sand bed and a beneficial DSB.>
I can deal with the tank glasses but cleaning brown algae every 5 days off of these white granules is a hard task especially with my full time job as a store manager.
<Yes, this is too often to maintain your sand.>
I see so many tanks that are cleaned only once a month or even less frequent that does not have this problem. Can you please tell me what’s wrong with my tank?
<Not with the information provided. Feeding, water flow, filtration (and lack of cleaning), among many other factors can have an impact.>
Should I take off the white granules and put live sand or should I change my lighting or filtering?
<With any live rock your sand will become “live”. What exactly is this substrate made of? Filtration may be a contributor. Canisters (really all mechanical filtration) need to be cleaned quite frequently.>
Please let me know your views. If you need any more info to come to a conclusion let me know.
Secondly, I wanted to know whether two 1” false Percula clowns will be compatible with my one 1” Clarkii clown.
<They likely won’t be.>
Thanks in advance for your help
Best regards,
Akila
<Very welcome, more reading re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm  along with the linked FAQs above. Scott V.>
 

Algae wit's end, SW refugium candidate    7/26/08
I know you guys usually like very detailed info but would probably take a lot of space to list EVERYTHING, especially history wise but I will try & cover all the pertinent info, please let me know if I missed anything.
<Okay>
55 gal w- 325w watt PC 50/50 split actinic on 9 hrs & white on 8 (sorry don't remember the Kelvin)
Overflow w- floss, Seagel (Carbon PhosGuard mixture) & Purigen & PhosGuard
<Using such chemical filtrants...>
by itself in sump, no bio-balls. Excalibur skimmer in sump about 2400 GPH flow, temp runs 82 in the day & 80-81 in the evening about 20 various snails, 8-10 red hermits & 1 emerald crab, 2 peppermint shrimp, 1 false perc & 1 lawnmower blenny, assorted soft & hard corals.
<How are these last doing?>
Nitrate, nitrite & ammonia never read above zero, calcium & carbonate hardness 420 & 8 respectively w- minor fluctuations. PH consistently 8.3 - 8.4
Phosphate, I have purchased 2 test kits & used one @ LFS & just don't trust the readings because the are always about the same @ .25 - .5 PPM regardless of whether it is tank water, tap water, API Tap Water Filter filtered water & have even added Tide to samples, but I starve my poor critters because of the algae, do 10% weekly water changes & use 2 ml of phos buster per 5 gallon on all water that goes into aquarium so I just don't know where phosphates come from (assuming they have to be there for algae growth). Only water ever put into tank has been RO from LFS or through the API filter. API filter has only been used about the last 2 months but no change in algae level.
<... something else, other means to control...>
This tank was a hand me down but even if algae was present in the 6 months I have had I would think I would have it licked by now. mainly hair algae & I just can't get rid of it. I have scrubbed the rock numerous times, usually out of the tank but early on I did in tank.
I need the nuclear option if there is one. At this point the only thing I can think of is trying a Foxface (would it work ?
<Mmm, no>
but 55 is small so I would have to return to LFS @ some point) or just breaking the tank down for storage & coming back to it down the road. If that is the only option what is the best way to preserve the rock, obviously I need to get the algae removed 1st.
Thanks in advance, you guys have been great & I tremendously enjoy your site.
<... I would go the route of out-competing the current noisome algae with other... grown in a sump/refugium, with a DSB... and buy all this and more with the money you'll save on the chemical filtrants in time. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm
and the linked files above... and here: http://wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm
Ditto. Bob Fenner>

Question about algae, SW... contr.  7/15/08
Hi! I have a 20 gallon salt water tank that has damsels, a serpent star, a small yellow tang and a few small crabs.
<This tank is way too small for a tang.>
I keep having a problem with brown algae on the glass that keeps recurring. It is only on the sand, not the live rock and covers the glass. I added a UV sterilizer, a protein skimmer and a new canister filter. It doesn't look like a red slime, is not hairy and has to be scraped off... Any ideas what this could be and how I can get rid of it?
Thank you.
Jim Hoffman
<Sounds like diatoms, can be controlled through the normal algae control methods, along with monitoring and limiting silicates. See here for more http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brownalgcontfaqs.htm .>
<Chris>

Help, Brown stringy Algae  7/12/08
Crew,
<Seth>
Thank you in advance for you help, this site is the best on the net. My 75 reef is now around 2 months old... After my 75 lbs of LR cured I added some snails.. a week later a maroon clown and some pulsing Xenia. Finally added a small regal tang about two weeks ago. I've been battling Nitrate levels of 25 or so for a month. I do a 10 gallon water change weekly with RO).
<Ok...>
The problem. My tank has gone through the normal diatom bloom (seems to be done). Then moved to green hair algae for a week or so. Now, it's being completely overrun with Brown slime algae of some sort It's covered with air bubbles). I thought it might be Cyano..
<Likely mostly so>
but I have SO much current in my tank. It's actually growing on an area of the glass that's getting pounded with current. Could this be Cyano?
<Oh yes>
This is my third tank.. I had Cyano blooms in both of my others but much more red color and not stringy) but both went away within a month. My filtration is the LR, powerheads, and a Remora pro with Mag 3. The skimmer is pulling out about half a collection cup per day of coffee colored skimmate. Do I need to do a 20 or 30 gallon change to immediately bring the nitrate way down?
<Might help, but...>
I know 25 is higher than it should be and is the reason I've been doing disciplined weekly water changes. Not sure how the nitrates are still that high. What do you think?
<That you should read: http://wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
and the linked files above... until you understand likely root causes, paths for possible control here>
Thank You!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Some Algae now - 6/30/08
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/25456555/
<What a mess! Looks like some source of nutrient/s must be running off the coast... RMF>
PeterC
Travel is fatal to bigotry, prejudice, and narrow-mindedness-(Mark Twain).

Blooming brown onion AHHH..... Algae 06/14/08
Hey guys,
<Hello!>
I'm having a little problem with brown algae growing in my 10 gallon nano reef. I'm trying to starve it to death by cutting out my 150 watt SunPod lamp by half a day. I thought I had it beat but when I turned on the sun the brown came back.
<Light is only a limiting factor if you make it so. Nutrient is the underlying cause here.>
My red scarlet hermits are doing a good job but not enough. So I was wondering if can cut the lights out for maybe 2 to 3 days so I can beat this problem? But I do have some corals in the tank...a small Monti and some mushrooms. By cutting out the lights 2 to 3 days would it hurt my corals in any way???
<Yes. Your corals need the light even more than the algae; besides, as soon as the lights returned to normal the algae would be close behind. I would check your nitrates; I imagine they are elevated, and try more frequent water changes to control the problem.>
Thanks
<No problem. Benjamin>

Seeking Any Comments, Hair Algae 6/11/08
Hi ... I have a reef system that is one year young now. Water tests have always stayed in limits (weekly testing & 20% water change: 77-79 degrees F, 1.025 salinity, 8.3 pH, 10dKH alkalinity, 420 nnm calcium, 0 NH3 & NO2). It's a small 30 gallon bow front tank with: 6 small-med various hermits, 12 various snails, 2 various shrimp, 1 sea hare, 1 each: clarkii clown, six line wrasse, Kaudern's cardinal, yellow tail damsel, and various corals: frogspawn, branching hammer, open brain, closed brain, Ricordea, pipe organ, Galaxea, various mushrooms, some xenia and Zoanthids, and a feather duster. I use a Red Sea skimmer, Penguin 200 bio-wheel filter, one Hydor Koralia 1 powerhead and one Maxijet 600. And finally I run a Coralife 65 watt 50/50 PC for 12 hours a day and only feed every third day and use purple up, some trace additives, reef complete and iodine supplement weekly as well.
<I would drop the additives, if you are doing water changes they are unnecessary.>
Problem is that for about six weeks ago I suddenly got an over !!! abundance of green hair algae (after which I added the sea hare, 2 more hermits and three turbo snails in an attempt to balance out the system and regain control over the algae ... it's even growing on the snails shells.
<Adding more life creates more waste and actually increases your problem. Manual removal and lots of water changes are the solution. Also have you tested for phosphates? Finally drop the additives, they are just adding fuel to the fire.>
I can not honestly see that I'm beginning to overcome the algae issue ... but at least it's not continuing to grow (although there's not much left that it isn't already growing on and doesn't look like an advertisement for ZZtop). I've read your forums and even done a few 40% water changes and thorough cleaning of the filters to overcome the algae ... and it's still in control ! Can you offer any suggestions ?
<Lots of water changes, reduce phosphates and nitrates, control nutrients, manual removal, and patience. It will take some time to start to see improvements, nothing good happens fast in this hobby.>
I don't perceive that I'm in danger of loosing the tank, as my research indicates that the hair algae is actually a good sign (just too much of a good thing can't be great and it looks disgusting !).
<Usually indicates an overabundance of nutrients or phosphates.>
I don't know what else to test for ... or what should be adjusted ... or if I should be adding more scavenger assistance ... seeking any comment ... Larry
<Check your source water for nitrates and phosphates, these are the most common chemicals that drive hair algae growth. Keep up the water changes and do not add anything to the tank that you are not testing for.>
<Chris>

Too Little Algae? - 6/10/08
Hello,
<Hallo!>
Hope all are well.
<Thanks, we appreciate it.>
I had emailed you some time ago about an algae problem I was having, and thanks to your advice it has completely cleared up. So much so that my question today is can you go to far in cleaning up your water.
<Theoretically, yes. In an average home system, not likely.>
All of my algae is gone, with the exception of coralline and a very few bubble algae which I have on the run. There was so much algae on the side glass that you could not see through it. Now it is completely clear. My front glass only needs to be cleaned once a week, if that.
<Sounds wonderful...>
My main concern is for my Lawnmower Blenny and algae eating snails. I have been using dried algae and they both seem to graze on it, but will this give them all they need or should I try feeding them something else.
<If they're consuming it, it should do the trick- provided you use good quality dried green algae>
I could try to catch the Blenny and return to the LFS to keep him from starving, but would rather keep him, he is quite a character.
<Some of my favorite fish. Provided you keep him fed, he should be just fine with you.>
Thanks for your help,
<No problem!>
Shawn
<Benjamin>

Re: Metal Halide Algae Nightmare! 6/9/08
Hi again folks (you lovely, lovely people!)
<Hee, there are many lovely people on the WWM crew! >
I've disconnected the Phosphate reactor and tested the water after 2-25% changes. The first change I used water from the LFS, the second RO water from the machine that I aerated for six hours prior to using. I've replaced half of the bio bale. I've cleaned everything in the filtration department.
<Sounds good.>
Algae - winning!
<Not so good.>
I don't know where it's coming from. The only connection seems to be the MH lighting. I've vacuumed the substrate, I've vacuumed the rocks, everything is alive, it's just very green, very disgusting.
I'm thinking of putting the old PC lighting back on and seeing if that makes any difference.
<It will undoubtedly slow the growth, but still just fixes the symptoms, not the problem.>
At this point, I just want to kill the algae. I'm open to any suggestions.
<Honestly, no new advice. The algae is being fueled by something. Too much food, mechanical filtration or substrate accumulating detritus, inadequate skimming, poor circulation, etc. Even once you figure out what is fueling the algae, it may still appear that it is winning. As the algae dies off it can fuel new algae unless the nutrients are exported. Strong skimming, water changes and harvesting your macroalgae in your refugium to export what is produced by the algae die off will make all the difference (you said you have a refugium, I assume you have a macroalgae growing? If not this is a strong tool in your battle.)>
Thank you!
Lisa (offering plenty of free algae)
<Welcome Lisa, thank you, but I have my algae quota here! Best, Scott V.>

Re: Metal Halide Algae Nightmare! 6/10/08
Hi Scott, Thanks for the quick answer.
<No problem.>
I temporarily put the PC light back up, whatever the MH helped, I have to get rid of for now.
<OK>
Can't be too many nutrients, I'm feeding maybe once or twice a week and seeing that the fish eat everything.
I'm not feeding the inverts or corals at all during this time.
<Current feeding may not be the issue, but nutrients from somewhere are, the algae is fueled by something.>
I wondered if the PC light (Coralife Aqualight Pro 150) could bee too close to the water (about 4" above)? It came with legs, but I'm wondering if it's too close.
<The lighting may have in impact, but still does not address the cause (it is not the light).>
I do have macroalgae in the refugium, I'm now turning off that light to retard the macroalgae growth. Should I remove it completely temporarily?
<No!! Just the opposite, you want that macroalgae to grow as fast as it possibly can. This is one of the most powerful tools you have. By growing the macroalgae it will use up the nutrients available in the water for the algae bloom in your tank. This coupled with water changes, siphoning off the dying algae as you go, will yield good results in time.>
And if you wouldn't mind helping a feeble-minded old broad, when you say "export what is produced by the algae die off), when are you saying? (Please frame response so a five year old can understand :) )
<Hee, when you start winning the battle in the main display, the algae dying off will start to pollute your water. Sometimes this can cycle back into more algae if what is produced is not taken out of the system. The three tools for this are aggressive skimming, water changes and macroalgae growth. By growing the macroalgae, you must periodically harvest some of it out of your system to allow for new growth and more nutrient export.>
I appreciate the help. I'm ready to throw my hands up in the air as my husband keeps taking me to restaurants with huge tanks full of slate, plastic plants and cichlids and coos that I too could have *that* instead. And it doesn't help that the overflow pump just died. I almost heard him giggle.
<Hmm, frustrating. Do hang in there, this is a phase just about all of us have gone through. Once you win this battle, and you will, you will thoroughly enjoy this hobby.>
Thanks so much,
Lisa
<Welcome, best, Scott V.>

Hair algae and Chlorodesmis
Macroalgae or Invasive Nuisance? "Hair" Algae Strikes Again! 5/27/2008
Hello again Crew,
<Scott F. your Crew member tonight.>
Well, I've been having a lot of fun cleaning out some hair algae today.
<Almost as much fun as wiping water off the floor!>
I'd like to ask a few questions regarding it.
1. What eats hair algae?
<Depending on the type of "hair algae", you can look to anything from Zebrasoma Tangs to Urchins. "Harsh" grazers will help. Here on the WWM site, we literally have volumes about various attack strategies against hair algae. Make a positive ID on the type of hair algae that you're dealing with, and add the appropriate grazer. Also, do identify and remove the potential sources of organics that are leading to the hair algae growth>
2. Does Chlorodesmis grow in the same pattern as hair algae? Or does it stay on a rock and expand (like an encrusting coral)?
<It does tend to stay in tighter formation, and is distinctly different in appearance than most of the hair algae. It does particularly well in very high flow/high light situations. This macroalgae grows "taller" than a hair algae does, and is typically tougher in texture.>
3. If I get whatever eats hair algae, will it eat Chlorodesmis?
<Quite possible that the grazer may take a bite, but Chlorodesmis tends to be distasteful to many grazers. In fact, it's actually a bit of a challenge to grow, so if you're getting this macroalgae, you're doing something right! Well, that's it.
Thanks in Advance,
Random Aquarist
< In the immortal words of Forrest Gump, "That's all I've got to say about that! Hope this helps a bit. Regards, Scott F.>

Algae Problem 05/10/2008 Hi there <<Hello, Andrew this evening>> I have recently had an algae bloom - see pics. <<Seen>> The algae is brown and stringy, but disintegrates when it is disturbed. It has engulfed all the live rock in my tank and it also seems to have tiny bubbles attached to it. Before the brown algae started taking over I had problems controlling the green seaweed-type algae, but the brown algae seems to be hindering the green algae growth. <<Yes, the algae is a type of algae called dinoflagellate. The common causes of this algae is lack of flow and excess nutrient levels.>> I've recently lost a clownfish, a dottyback, 3 hermits and 5 snails over a period of a few months (the tank is 9 months old). <<Esssh...not so good>> However, the snails started dying before the algae became a problem. I never found the bodies of the fish, but assume my brittle star ate them. My corals are still alive, but I'm not sure that they look as healthy as they have in the past. <<More than likely the case, yes, struggling in a tank infested with this algae>> My remaining livestock are: 2 bangai cardinals, 1 damsel, 1 blenny, 1 cleaner shrimp, 1 brittle star and 3 hermits. <<Ok>> I have a 24g D-D Nanocube with live rock and all of the filter media that came with the tank. From reading your site, I think the filter media may be the issue, so I have gradually started removing the sponges. I plan to either replace them with new sponges and new activated carbon or remove the sponges and activated carbon and replace them with live rock in the back chamber - what do you suggest? <<My suggestion would be to slowly continue to remove the filter sponge's and replace with live rock rubble. This is of course, thinking along the lines that you have about 1 - 1.5lbs of live rock per gallon of tank water. How often are the filters cleaned / media replaced?>> I perform 10% water changes once a week with RO water mixed with Red Sea salt and Ph buffer and siphon off the algae, but it re-appears within a day.  My water levels are as follows: salinity-1.024; NO2-0.1; NO3-5; Kh-105; Ph8.2; and PO4-0. My lights are on for 8hrs a day and the tank is only exposed to a minimal amount of sunlight. I feed the livestock half a cube of brine shrimp every two days. Am I overfeeding them? <<Not over feeding no. Just ensure you thaw out and wash the frozen food in RO water to remove the juice that holds the frozen cube together as these are commonly high in phosphates.>> They do eat it all within a few mins, although I have noticed the tank is beginning to smell a bit seaweedy. What is the best approach to controlling this sort of algae problem? <<Do please start to read here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm and linked articles and FAQ's. The main thing with this type of algae is to lower your nutrient levels above. Start by doing 20% water change per week, continue to siphon the algae out, ensure lighting is only on for 8 hours max. More info and suggestions in the above linked article. Thanks. <<Thanks for the question, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Red algae plague 05/10/2008
Hello,
<<Hello, Andrew today>>
I have been going over your faq regarding red algae and could find nothing regarding the use of Redox to control red algae. I read about this on another website as a possible way to help eliminate this problem.
<<One of many bottled so called "wonder" products>>
My nitrates are 0,my phosphates are 0.
<<When suffering from a bad plague algae situation, its very common for your test results to show up as zero because the algae has already absorbed the nutrients from the water, hence the zero reading>>
I have 1 protein skimmer running and intend to add another today. My lighting is a T-5 6 bulb, with 3 10k daylight and three actinic.
<<How old are the bulbs? Old bulbs are another known cause for this issue>>
I have reduced my light cycle twice from 12 hours to 10 and than from 10 hours to 8.
<<This is good, 8 hours is plenty>>
I also cut back on feeding my fish to once a day. My fish load is light, only 1 Clown and 1 Lawnmower Blenny.
<<DO you use frozen foods? If you do, do you wash the food in RO water before adding to the tank? Frozen foods are notorious for adding phosphates into a tank. Its always best to defrost the food, put in a fine mesh sieve / coffee filter and wash well with RO water before use to remove the fluid which is used to hold the cube together. You could actually feed once every other day.>>
I do have a wide verity of Soft and Lps corals. The corals are only fed lightly once a week. If this is of help, my sg is 1.023 and ph 8.4 and I do 10% water changes bi-weekly and I run Chemi-pure, activated charcoal and Phos-ban in my refugium.
<<Switch to 10% per week, this will help, and check your source water for nitrates and phosphates>>
The Red algae is becoming a bigger problem on a daily basis. Please let me know your thoughts on Redox and what else I may be able to do to help eliminate this pest.
<<You don't mention your amount of flow. Low flow can also contribute to this issue, maybe add another powerhead to raise the amount of flow and see how you go. I would go with the natural methods of plague algae removal before entertaining the bottled solutions.>>
Thanks in advance, Shawn
<<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Slime in a new tank! 4/29/08
New Aquarium-Old Problem (Nuisance Algae Bloom in Newly Established System)
Hi there!
<Good evening! Scott F. in tonight!>
Hope you can settle my frustrations a little.
<The doctor is in...LOL>
I have just set-up a new 70G marine set-up. Have had 2 other marine tanks before. The new tank matured nicely and I have started to stock, with just a couple of fish and some shrimp (all from my previous tank). They have all settled in well and seem their usual happy selves.
<Good to hear!>
I have, however, got a Cyanobacteria bloom. I do a 10% water change every week and the tank has been going for 6 weeks (3 and a half weeks cycling and 2 and a half weeks with stock). In my other tanks, I have had this bloom when the tanks were not long set-up and so am not overly surprised it has happened. However as it is a bigger tank the bloom is on a bigger scale. I would like to know how long these blooms usually last and what I can do to get the edge over it. I have tried sucking it out, but it comes back within the next couple of days. Thanks a lot, Jamie!
<Well, Jamie- I'm glad that you are aware of these blooms as a normal part of the aquarium maturation process. They are caused by excesses of nutrients in a system with immature (or even non-existent) nutrient export processes. Once the population of beneficial microorganisms reaches a sufficient size, you'll realize a decrease in the algae. In the mean time, your best bet is to contribute to the nutrient export processes any way you can. Nothing earth-shattering or revolutionary here. Start with continued regular water changes (your 10% is fine, or you can be obsessively geeky like me and utilize two 5% water changes per week). Make sure that your protein skimmer is functioning well, and regularly producing skimmate. Next, be sure to utilize some sort of chemical filtration media, such as activated carbon, Poly Filter, etc. somewhere in your system, and replace it regularly. Maintain brisk circulation within the system, which helps to drive off excess C02 and keep detritus in suspension for utilization by animals, or for removal by mechanical filtration media. Perhaps you might want to try to grow some "purposeful" macroalgae, such as Chaetomorpha, in you sump or a refugium (illuminated on a "reverse" day/night schedule with the display, which will help stabilize pH as a side benefit) to compete with the nuisance algae. Harvest the macroalgae on a regular basis, which will which will truly remove nutrient from the system. Finally, don't forget about the most important ingredient- a healthy dose of patience. Given time, good husbandry, and patience, the natural nutrient export systems in your aquarium will develop and your nuisance algae problem will be a thing of the past. You can do it- hang in there! Regards, Scott F.>

Algae Bloom, Marine 4/24/08
Hi folks,
<Hello>
I am experiencing an explosion of green hair algae in my 38-gal reef tank. When this started a couple of months ago, I threw a bag of Chemi-Pure into my HOB filter, to no effect. I am also running a Remora skimmer -- rated for up to 75 gallons. However, I just now discovered that my well water has about 10ppm nitrate and -- you guessed it -- there's no nitrate in the tank.
<Is bound up in the algae.>
I've tested my well a few times in the year that the tank has been running, and never found nitrate before.
<Probably seasonal, perhaps tied to local farming?>
I've also got a Coral Beauty who may be showing signs of HLLE -- due to water quality, I'm guessing, because I feed a pretty good variety and supplement with Vita-Chem.
<Good guess.>
Are the skimmer and filter media not enough to take care of the nitrate? Am I going to have to break down and start using RO water?
<Filters and skimmers have no effect on nitrates, in fact filters generally generate nitrate as an end product to the nitrogen cycle. I would try stepping up water changes using RO/DI water, manually removing as much algae as possible during these. With time and a little work you will eventually work through this bloom. Also test for phosphates which may also be in your water supply and is also a fertilizer for algae.>
Thanks,
Scott
<Welcome>
<Chris>

Bubble algae problem. Using WWM    4/22/08
Hello.
<Shawn>
I hope everyone is doing well.
My question is if you have a way of dealing with bubble algae. When I clean it of the rocks I scrape it with a knife and vacuum what comes off so as not to let any float around the tank. But the next time it appears it is worse than the last time. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the help,
Shawn
<Posted on WWM... learn to use the search tool... as requested before writing us: http://wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/question_page.htm
"dealing with bubble algae"... the cached views... RMF>

Algae Outbreak   4/20/08
Greetings,
<Salud>
I have been fortunate to have a 29 gallon? algae free reef tank for several months now (except growing coralline).? However, I recently tried feeding some mushroom corals and zooanthids with Marine Snow (Two Little Fishes)
<Garbage... take it back to your dealer and demand your money back... Is this just cellulose? As in wallpaper paste?>
?and Reef Plus (Seachem).? The Marine Snow seemed to do little more than just cloud the water temporarily.? The Reef Plus did not cloud the water.? I added 1/2 the recommended dose of each.? I now have an outbreak of brown algae again (probably diatoms).? It appears most during midday and usually subsides by late evening.? It's not bad, but clearly is attempting to gain a stronghold.? My tank parameters are Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate all zero, Ph 8.3, alk 8 dKH, Ca 360 ppm, Salinity 1.024.? Phosphate shows 0 but I do not trust the AP test kit at low levels.? Recently did 25% water change using RO/DI water.? I use Kent Nano Reef two part calcium/alkalinity supplement and test for Ca and alk regularly.? Is? the algae outbreak? probably due to the invert feeding supplements??
<Likely spurred by the one TLF product>
If so, what's the best way to get back to no algae.?
<Start reading here: Mmm, having log-on prob.s... go to WWM, Marine, Maintenance, scroll down to Algae...>
I have some Kent phosphate sponge.? Does this material work or just another useless product.? In the future, should I just skip the invert feeding supplements and rely on tank lighting (72 watts PC, 50/50) only?
Also, I moved both mushroom rocks up from the sand bed about 3".? Both colonies were opening fully on the sand bed.? Now 1 colony opens fully and the other does not.? The problem colony also begins closing up much earlier.? I really would like to leave them both where they are.? Is there a chance the problem colony will adjust?? Are they really that sensitive to lighting conditions (3" move up).? Water flow is low and about the same in both locations.
Lastly, do you recommend Kalkwasser or two part supplements for calcium/alkalinity control?
Thanks Much,
Greg
<All these questions are addressed on WWM... go, read there. Bob Fenner>

Tank questions about 2 different tanks... Endogenous algae prob.s/SW, Piranha tank plant sel.   04/14/2008
Hello,
<Hi there>
Tank- 200 gal (7'Lx2'Wx2'H), 130+ pounds LR, 40 gal refugium plus a large hang-on refugium, 3-XP3's canisters, 2 Rio 2100 (694gph) and 3 Penguin 1140 (300gph) power heads on sides and back of tank. And a Coralife 220gallon Protein Skimmer.\\
<Mmm, I'd upgrade>
Fish- 8" Russell's Lionfish, 3 triggers Niger, Humu, and a Bursa all 4", 2 yellow Tangs 4", 5" Foxface Lo, and a 13" Wolf Eel. I also have a lot of Red Mushrooms, Button coral, and 2 different leathers. And I do a 30gal water changes (w/ RO water) every 2-3 weeks. This tank has been up and running for over 3 years.
I get brown algae out breaks, I also have green (hair) fuzz algae on most my rocks and back and sides of tank. I was told since I clean my canisters once a month (not often enough),
<This is so... I'd clean them at least weekly>
that the entire gunk they collected just creates more Nitrate, lots. What I should do is over time keep the skimmer and get rid of the canisters and add more power heads for more current so that the LR (and refugiums) can do there jobs. (20gph times your tank size ((4000gph)), so I need 1720gph more in my aquarium) Does that sound alright?
<A beginning...>
I do use Chemi-pure and Phos-Zorb in each filter. I also test water a Reef Master Test kit. My Nitrate and Phosphate are both low and are in the safe ranges but they both show up, always have.
<These measures of nutrient ability are not entirely "accurate"... the real bulk of this matter is being expressed, taken up by the algae and BGA (the brown stuff)>
I also have allot
<Won't correct this time... a lot>
of this bright yellowish-greenish sponge (Cecilia I think)
<Not this feminine appellation; though a fave Simon and Garfunkel tune>
growing on my LR. Is it bad or good?
<Mmm, more of the latter>
I'm setting up a 90gal (4'Lx18"Wx2'H) FW, I'm going to get 3 baby Red Belly piranhas. I do plan on having plants growing out the top of my aquarium. Just the roots will be in the tank. So with that said should this set-up be OK for 2-3 adult size Red Belly piranhas in the long run? And what kind of plants besides Bamboo should I use?
<Yes and if only one, my fave, Ceratopteris>
Thanks for all your advice
Matt Owens
<Welcome. I'd get a better skimmer, perhaps ditch the canister filters altogether, or clean out weekly as stated... add more/new live rock... and likely skip the Serrasalmines (too skittish and boring as you'll see)... Cheers, Bob Fenner>