|
| |
|
FAQs about Stands, Supports for Aquariums: What to Use, How to
Use it, Where to Put it...
Related Articles:
Aquarium Stands, Marine Tanks,
Canopies, Covers &
Lighting Fixtures,
Related FAQs: Aquarium Stands 1, Aquarium Stands 2,
About Floors Underneath, DIY,
Finishing/Coating,
Commercial, Leveling,
Modification, Repair, &
Tanks,
Tanks 2,
Tanks 3, Tanks 4, Aquarium Repair 1, Acrylic Aquarium Repair, Used
Aquarium Gear, Don't let me down!
Halichoeres podostigma (Bleeker 1854), the Axilspot
Wrasse. |
 |
Will the desk hold?
8/24/07
Good morning!
How are you? Great site By the way. Tons and tons of info.
I recently bought a 20 gallon long. I will be putting on a desk that has held a
5 gallon and an 8 gallon tall (not at the same time). I weigh like 170 pounds
and I sat on the desk with the 5 gallon. The desk did not wobble and it was
level with all the weight on it.
Should I do any more tests or would you say it's okay?
One more thing, can I use a pad of carpet as the cushion between the tank and
desk?
Thanks,
-Edward
<Hello Edward. Thanks for the kind words about the site. Anyway, in my
opinion/experience, the upper limit for putting tanks on anything not designed
for supporting one is about 10 gallons. Above that, and you're asking for
trouble. While furniture may hold a bigger tank for a while, eventually the wood
or whatever sags, and then the stress on the glass bottom of the tank gets
skewed, and the tank leaks. Result: poor fishkeeper gets woken at 4 in the
morning by the sound of splashing water and has to quickly carry fishes to a
bucket and then mop up the floor. Been there, done that, bought the t-shirt. So
no, I wouldn't do this. Cheers, Neale.>
Questionable Tank Stand – 07/24/07
Hey Crew,
Awesome Site!!! Anyway, I just thought I'd ask you guys a quick question. I
bought what seemed good at the time: two small, matching nightstand/dressers for
my L36" W14" H18" 40g aquarium. I thought these would be good for $20 instead of
the $180 stands they sell at my LFS. What I think I might regret about these
things is that they don't meet in the middle, and their's about an inch of space
between each and that means the tanks not supported about an inch in the middle.
I have had this tank for three yrs., and nothing has happened, but I fear
something will. Is there too much stress? Should I get a new stand? Any
suggestions would be helpful. Thank you,
Nate
<Hello Nate. Let me tell you a story. One night I was asleep and for some reason
I was dreaming about rain. But then I realised I wasn't dreaming about rain, I
was listening to rain. And the rain wasn't outside the house, but inside my
bedroom. Only after a few moments did it dawn on me that my aquarium was
leaking. The bottom pane of glass had cracked during the night because the
wooden top of the dresser I had sat it on had finally sagged too far and the
pane of glass couldn't support the weight of the water any more. The moral of
the story is that you shouldn't assume [a] that any old piece of furniture will
support an aquarium safely; or [b] that said furniture will be safe tomorrow
because it is working fine today. If you're going to rest an aquarium on two
separate cabinets, you have the risk of one of them moving relative to the
other, placing stress on the bottom of the tank as one end sags lower than the
other. As you probably realise with most aquaria they are very strong in terms
of resisting the static forces of a body of water but they are incredibly poor
at resisting twisting forces because the silicone has poor resistance to this
and the glass has none at all. At the very least, you need to have a single
piece of strong wood forming a base upon which the tank rests, plus polystyrene
tiles on top of that for cushioning. I'd also recommend some sort of bracing to
keep the two cabinets from moving apart from each other. But really, this isn't
something I'd consider safe. Your own mileage may vary of course, but I've been
stung by the "DIY tank stand" disaster and would never try it again. Cheers,
Neale.>
Wrought-Iron Tank Stand...Is It Safe? –
06/04/07
I have a 29-gal. saltwater tank with 10 lbs. of live rock on a wrought
iron stand.
<<Okay>>
I am kind of worried about the weight on the stand.
<<Shouldn’t be...if the stand was “made” to support the/a aquarium>>
Do you know how much weight these stands can handle?
Thanks.
<<A few decades back I remember these inexpensive (at the time, anyway)
wrought-iron stands being much the “norm”...I even had one that I put “two”
55g tanks on (a saltwater tank above a freshwater tank). Barring any defects
in materials or craftsmanship, if the stand was intended to hold the tank it
will be fine...though they do tend to be a bit “wobbly” by nature. EricR>>
Need more options... Something for underneath a large acrylic tank and DIY
wooden stand? 5/17/07
Hi, Crew, please help! (some more)
<Okay>
My eyes are burning and I can almost recite most posts within tank\stand posts
!!!
<Perhaps you're ready to write an article re?>
I would like to use something else besides pink Styrofoam under my 125
gallon 1\2"acrylic tank(48x24x24).
<Comes in other colors... or you can paint it yourself, make/use a border
about...>
I have done extensive research on your site
and cannot find other "giving" underlayment options. My tank will be set up in
my living room on a custom stand that I have polyurethaned and thought that a
weight lifting mat may also work, 1\2" dense rubber.
<Oh yes>
Or possibly a dense neoprene material at 1\4"-1\2".
<Ditto>
I would like a two inch over tank size border around the tank to also protect
my wood stand
<Best to make sure this wood is sealed otherwise>
and for aesthetics. I would like it to look like a "mouse pad" , if feasible.
<Such material is available as well>
My stand is a massive, overbuilt and engineered DIY with 1 1\2" hardwood ply
solid top. I planed the top imperfections until level and planar until the tank
felt real solid and would not slide easy and with no " rock" . I would like the
mat to disperse any imperfections of a max 1\16" inch in middle of 48" section
of tank. I figured once the weight is added it may settle and may have been o.k.
without a mat but just want to do whatever is best.
Question time:
Is there any reaction between acrylic and different rubbers?
<None appreciable>
Is the cost why most people use the pink Styrofoam?
<Don't know... more likely easy availability is the principal determinant here>
What are other options that are used?
<Many... see above... Most anything that is largely inert, "giving" can/does
work>
With my tank at around 1250 pounds full, what thickness should I use for the
different materials?
<Depends on the issues of level-ness and planarity here... Do you have concerns
that given the load with the tank full that there will be some asymmetry
imposed? If not, I would not be concerned, NOT use something twixt the stand and
tank... not necessary, and a mess in time>
If Styrofoam should be used, what color and thickness do you recommend?
<Likely a half inch will do in this case>
Thanks in advance for a great site. I refer to your site before making any
purchases now, after I feel confident in making the "right choice" for my given
situation. Your knowledge is invaluable.
Thanks again, Mark.
<Glad to share, kibitz... Do check out the foam offerings at the big-box stores
Home Depot and Lowe's. Bob Fenner>
Sump and Return Pump, and Stand Questions - 02/09/2007
Dear WWM Crew,
<Scott>
First, thanks for establishing this informative forum. It has been extremely
helpful and I am a frequent visitor. I conducted some research but didn't find
a good response to the question I have. I have a 180 gallon acrylic
aquarium. Prior to receiving the aquarium as a surprise gift from my lovely
wife, I had purchased a 180 gallon All-Glass stand. I know that an acrylic tank
must have support across the entire bottom of the tank. If I were to place a
3/4" - 1" piece of plywood on top of the entire stand, would this be enough
support for the tank or do you have additional recommendations?
<This thickness plywood should be fine... I would go ahead and fasten it (with
screws... brass or stainless would be best... and coat over these...) to the
outside edges (every six inches or so) to give added strength to the "inside" of
the support>
I could attempt to sell the All-Glass stand, if necessary. Also, while I was
conducting research on return pumps, additional concerns came to mind. The
acrylic tank has a 16" X 5" overflow in the center. The sump I have ordered
from the LFS has arrived and it has two return holes drilled on the end of the
tank. In hindsight, perhaps I should have had the holes drilled in the
center side of the sump versus the ends. Your thoughts?
<Mmm, not a big deal... I'd use the one on hand with the through puts on the
end>
The overflow has (2) 1 1/2" dual drains and (2) 3/4" returns. I was planning on
purchasing a Iwaki 70RLT (1500 gph @ 4' Head) or 100RLT (2000 gph @ 4'
Head). Iwaki seems to be the pump of choice in Michael Paletta's "Ultimate
Marine Aquariums".
<Is a good product line... amongst a few... though there are some quieter>
Anyway, in determining what the return rate of the pump should be, I'm not sure
how many gallons of water will drain out of the tank, and as such what the rate
of my return pump should be. Also, I was contemplating using 2 pumps instead of
one, but believe that I would be better off with the one pump (with a 2nd as an
emergency back-up).
<I agree>
Now, for my sump, it is 60 gallons with a refugium in the center. I probably
should have planned this out a bit better because of the overflow being in the
center. I know it is best to have the overflows drain into the first
compartment which houses the skimmer. Would you recommend that I route the
drain water to the first compartment
with PVC?
<Yes>
Should I connect both drains using a "T" connector or just have each of them
continue to drain separately.
<I would have drain separately... a bit more flow, not as much noise from the
separate fall...>
An additional concern I have is that I will have to use additional PVC to route
the returns from the pump (housed on the end of the sump) to the center, which
I'm sure will affect the amount of water that is being returned.
<Yes, but not much>
I was planning on turning the water over 10X+ times/hour, but I'm not sure how
feasible this is with my current set-up. Have you ever known anyone to have the
sump drilled in the center side and have the return pump housed there?
<Oh yes>
If you feel it necessary to modify the sump, please let me know. There aren't
many quality resources in Tucson for me to turn to. I sincerely apologize for
the lengthy email, but I know that you have the resources and expertise
necessary to provide good advice. Thanking you in advance.
Scott
<Well... the principal concern I have is the rate of flow of water to/through
the refugium portion... I would devise your plumbing to have this reduced
considerably, by bypass. Bob Fenner>
Using Treated Wood For Aquarium Structures - 02/04/07
Dearest Bob and Friends,
<<Greetings>>
Wishing good health to all; I have been on a very strict diet for 3 weeks..
argh!)
<<I hate diets...>>
I have finished building a very strong stand for a new 90-gal I will be setting
up.
<<Cool!>>
I am quite sure that I made a mistake in my wood selection.
<<Oh?>>
I used 5x5 treated wood. Afterwards I found out that treated wood has a poison
biocide stain (green) on it.
<<Mmm, indeed...is why it is called "treated." The use of arsenic (chromated
copper arsenate) was banned for residential use in 2004, the treated wood
available to homeowners (hobbyists) today contains either alkaline copper quat
or copper azole. While much less toxic to us than the arsenic based treatment,
you'll notice the common ingredient is copper...sometimes as high as
96%. Obviously you don't want this leaching in to your tank>>
This is a problem right?
<<It can be yes...and is why I chose to not use treated lumber when building my
in-wall reef display>>
Can I simply varnish over?
<<I don't recommend this...it just won't last in this environment, and the wood
is still likely too "wet" anyway. Your best option is to use a penetrating oil
stain to seal the wood that can easily be renewed as needed>>
Another problem is that the wood I used was not 100% dry when I got it.
<<Ah, yes...treated and kiln-dried wood is sometimes available, but more often
than not the wood at the home centers (Lowe's/HD) is not "dried" and is only
hours/days old after the treatment process>>
Now it seems to have finished drying since it was built and now the areas where
the tank sits on the stand is no longer planar.
<<Not unusual...treated wood is usually meant for "rough" construction and is
not the best "cuts"...couple that with the extremely high moisture content and
bowing/twisting is inevitable. Another reason for using untreated and
kiln-dried wood>>
Off by 1/8 inch at some places. I tried to level off using a hand sander and
files but I think I made it worse.
<<You're best option here is to start over with better wood I think>>
The wood has also cracked in some areas but I doubt that is of any worry.
<<Mmm, I don't agree...there will be an awful lot of weight on this stand>>
I honestly think my stand could hold a train car. (5x5 wood, secured using 7
inch 3/8 wood screws, and wood glue, structure is all boxed in)
<<Ah...but is all "moot" if it is not level and planar>>
At this point I'm thinking that I could simply place a 1/4 inch thick rubber
strip under the perimeter (this is a perimeter trim tank) of the tank to
compensate for my non-planar mess!
<<Mmm, I don't think this is a good solution here>>
I think I remember reading your advice against this but I think at this point
I'm ready to accept a non-ideal solution.
<<Are you ready to accept having the tank burst?>>
I think the odds of me bringing this planar using hand tools is slim.
<<Likely, yes>>
It is not as easy and is actually quite easy to make worse.
<<Indeed...and reason enough to chalk this up as a "learning experience" and
just start over>>
Thank you very much for your time.
<<Happy to share. EricR>>
Tristan
Re: Using Treated Wood For Aquarium Structures - 02/06/07
<<Sorry for the delay in making a reply, I've been down with Sinusitis>>
Even if the gap is only a 1/6 to a max of 1/8? In my mind; the rubber will
make up enough?? Is 1/16 enough to make my new tank crack??
<<In my opinion it is, but don't rely on my opinion alone. The final
decision is up to you, but I would at least seek other's thoughts
re...perhaps even contact the tank manufacturer for their input. Or just
rebuild the tank stand...>>
Thanks so much,
Tristan
<<Regards, EricR>>
Using large buffet as aquarium stand 8/11/05
I am planning on buying a 90 gallon tall tank (36x18x31) or a 70 gallon
(36x18x25) and a custom refugium (15x18x31 or 15x18x25) that would sit
side-by-side on the same stand. Would the refugium need to be higher in
order to flow back into the tank without a pump?
<Yes>
Maybe it can be done at this height if the tank is drilled?
<Water seeks its own level...>
Anyway, my main question: The "stand" I am planning on using is an antique
buffet. It is "strong like bull", but I am not sure it could handle the weight
of the tanks.
<Mmm, the tanks et al. weigh about ten pounds per gallon filled up... I would at
least try placing this much weight on the piece of furniture... to try it
out...>
Considering the different weights on each end of the
stand, would this set up be unstable?
<Only way to tell is to try...>
Would it be better to get a tank with
a 48" length (centered on the buffet) and forget using the refugium? How do
I determine whether this piece of furniture can hold these aquariums?
<Experiment... not with the tanks, but equivalent weight>
Do the supports need to be a certain distance apart--or certain thickness?
<Likely you will want to place some four by pieces of wood every two feet...
under the buffet, to support... on the principal members>
I would really rather not get another stand if I don't have to. It will be on
carpet on top of slab foundation, and the legs are large and flat.
If I decide on the 90 gal, there will be about 180 lbs of LR and 110lbs of
substrate. If I go with the 70, it would include 130 lbs of LR and 110lbs
of substrate.
<And the water at about 8.2 pounds per gallon... about ten pounds per gallon...>
The refugium would hold an extra 30-40 lbs of live rock and
20 lbs of substrate. The main tank is to be a coral tank and the refugium
is to serve as a typical refugium (algae, copepods, shrimp) and a seahorse
tank (I am planning to use a breeder box in the refugium to further protect
some of the shrimp and pods from the seahorses).
Thanks for your time,
Angela
<Do want to mention that you consider the probable damage to this piece... from
moisture, spills... a good, strong stand can be made for not much money... see
Ozreef.org for DIY plans here... IMO, leave the buffet for future "Antiques
Roadshow" programs. Bob Fenner>
Aquarium stand question 9/26/05
Hey guys I don't know if you remember me but you helped me out a lot in
setting up my 1500 gallon reef tank 3 years ago. (sorry I never got you any pics
will send them right away) My parents are moving to New York and I am taking the
75 reef that they
had in their living room. I'm moving it from an all glass 75 to a modified
SeaClear system 2 (replaced bio filter with refugium its cool) and the tank is
going to be on a dresser (the dresser has had this tank on it before and more
than supports the
weight) the concern is the dresser is on carpet and wobbles a bit with just the
weight of the empty tank on it. Will this problem correct itself with the weight
of the tank and rock or become worse like I have a feeling it will?
<Mmm, doubtful>
Also would a piece
of 1 inch plywood maybe 4 inches wider than the base of the dresser correct this
issue? Thanks for your help you guys are great!
<I would fill it otherwise empty of gravel, gear and see how steady, stable (and
level, planar) this tank is... I suspect it will solidly settle in with the
weight of the water. Bob Fenner>
Tank Stand 9/26/05
Hey guys I don't know if you remember me but you helped me out a lot in
setting up my 1,500 gallon reef tank 3 years ago. (Sorry I never got you any
pics will send them right away!) My parents are moving to New York and I am
taking the 75 reef that they had in their living room. I’m moving it from an
All-glass 75 to a modified sea clear system 2 (replaced bio filter with refugium
its cool) and the tank is going to be on a dresser (the dresser has had this
tank on it before and more than supports the weight). The concern is the
dresser is on carpet and wobbles a bit with just the weight of the empty tank on
it. Will this problem self-correct with the weight of the tank and rock or
become worse like I have a feeling it will? Also would a piece of 1 inch plywood
maybe 4 inches wider than the base of the dresser correct this issue? Thanks for
your help you guys are great!
<I like the idea of a piece of plywood under the stand, level it, then give it a
test fill to see if it stays level or requires some shimming. Wobbles scare me,
it might correct itself with the weight but I would sleep better knowing it is
level and sturdy. We look forward to some pics of the 1,500 gallon reef; I'm
getting jealous just thinking about it. -Gage>
300 gal tank stand 12/30/2005
Hi, Bob:
<Phil>
I’ve been reading the WWM site for info as I prepare to finally set up
my 130 and 300 gal tanks as reef tanks. They were in storage for 23
years until I bought a house and know I do not intend to move soon.
<I'll bet!>
I built an aquarium room in the single bay area of a three bay garage to
get the aquariums on a concrete floor. I have many questions, but will
concentrate on my current area of concern. They are both All Glass
tanks. The 130 has about ¼ inch space between the bottom of the tank
and the bottom molding that I think can be resolved with ½ to 1 inch
Styrofoam sheet,
<Yes, should be fine>
but the 300 has about 1 inch space between the bottom
glass and the outside bottom edge. I was thinking of filling this
rectangle with 1 inch Styrofoam and then the whole tank set on a stand
with 1 inch Styrofoam.
<Mmm, likely a good idea... the "floating" bottom (this is what they're called
in the industry) is fine, but the edge/frame is best situated on the foam>
I thought of using 4 x 6 beams, with the 6 inch
in vertical under the tanks. Do you think I could get a 4 foot opening
under the 130 or 300 gal stand using this wood, as the sump will be used
for both systems and is wider than both aquariums?
<Yes, as long as the rest of the structure is sound>
There is limited amount of space in this room because my wife asked me to reduce
its
size. The sump is 41 x 46 x 30High. The garage floor slopes ¼ inch
every two feet in a north to south orientation and the 130 will be in
this orientation, creating additional problems in building a level tank stand.
<Do shim the stand to being level...>
I have Googled DIY aquarium stands finding some info.
<Try Ozreef.org?>
I was going to use a plenum system for NNR in the 130, but my LFS recommends
against this and recommends using live rock in both tanks and the sump,
which I was going to do anyway.
<Up to you... ultimately... not me or the LFS... But I would put a DSB in this
sump... with or w/o a barrier/plenum>
I also plan to use a refugium for
macroalgae and critter development and was told that I should get plenty
of critters in a system this size with the live rock that will be in
place. The stands are a critical step in the process. Neither tank has
been filled with water since their purchase. I am not in a hurry to
make a mistake, but am so close to water in the tank that I can hardly
wait. Please help with your suggestions/input any way possible. Thank
you. Phil
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Acrylic Tank Support in ASCII? - 12/05/05
Hi Bob,
<<EricR here...Bob is off in a warm and sunny place keeping his diving skills finely honed...>>
I was researching what the web says about supporting an acrylic tank, and found your article:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tksstds.htm. I am replacing a 20-yr old 65g (48x18x18) glass tank with acrylic. It is going on top of a wrought iron stand which has a horizontal support, 6
inches from the back. The tank is sitting on a plastic frame with center support 24 inches from end.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 0
+ +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 6"
+ +
+ +
+ +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 18"
Do I need plywood to go under the tank, or is the iron cross brace sufficient to support the almost center of the tank?
<<Plywood is advised here, the bottom will flex/bulge under the weight otherwise. Many acrylic tanks are made with thinner acrylic on the bottom than the sides as it is assumed it will be "fully" supported...and...manufacturers will not honor warranties if the tank is not properly supported.>>
Thanks.
Neil Frank
Raleigh, NC
<<Regards, EricR>>
Looking For An Oceanic Tank Stand - 03/15/2006
Hello, My name is Joey and I love your website.
<Thank you Joey.>
I wanted to know if you can direct me to a place or number to find a stand for
an Oceanic tank for a 84x24.5 x 25 a 200 RRE BO. Please help as soon as you can
because I am moving and the shop that I go to all the time for some reason can't
find a stand before the first of next month. This would mean a lot to me for
your help and I Thank You for all your help that I have got from the site.
<Well Joey, the best I can think of is to try contacting Oceanic here http://www.oceanicsystems.com/
. They should be able to offer some help.>
Thanks,
Joey Harper
<You're welcome. - Josh>
Re: Looking For An Oceanic Tank Stand - 03/16/2006
Thank you very much.
<You're welcome.>
I have just one more question for you please, I want to set up the 200G on the
second floor of a house that I'm moving to and the floor is all wood and when I
walk around the second floor apartment it makes no sound and it feels pretty
strong.
<It really depends on the construction of the house. I wouldn't put this on the
second floor though. We're talking well over 2'000 lbs. here.>
Do you think it could fall through the house?
<A very real possibility.>
Do you think 200G is to heavy?
<Don't know for sure, too many factors.>
Please let me know and I thank You so much.
<You're welcome Joey. - Josh>
Oceanic aquarium, custom stand
- 07/26/06
Hey guys.
<<Hey, Kevin. Tom with you.>>
I had delivered to my house yesterday a 215G Oceanic aquarium.
<<If this were in color, you'd see me as green...with envy. :)>>
I built the stand myself so I could tie it in with a wet bar that it sits behind.
I have experience in furniture making, so the stand is really well built, and is
perfectly planar and level. The stands top is a piece of 3/4 ply board that is
larger than the aquarium itself, with the supports being right under the
aquarium as well as having the plywood supported on its edges that are not under
the aquarium. I hope this makes sense?
<<Does to me. Got a basement full of sawdust-creating equipment myself.>>
When the aquarium was placed on the top, which I had marked off for the exact
placement, I later noticed a gap between the front, long edge of the aquarium
and the stand. I can snugly slide about 5 playing cards within the widest part
of that gap.
<<1/16", from my quick measure, Kevin.>>
The back edge of the aquarium also seems to not fit snugly, but with only room
for perhaps two playing cards to fit. The two short edges and the four corners
fit perfectly tight.
<<Good.>>
Because the top is larger than the aquarium itself, I'm still able to place my 6
ft metal level right in front of the aquarium and it still shows no gaps between
the level and the stand. I checked my level against a few other flat surfaces
around my home and it is fine, so this gap is due to the construction of the
aquarium itself, and not my stand. I'm positive on this fact!
<<I'm still with you...>>
I was recommended to not place a foam or rubber matting between the aquarium and
the stand, as the store that I purchased it from said that as long as the stand
is flat and planar, it was unnecessary, and there was always a chance for the
mat itself to become kinked in the placement of the aquarium.
<<Agreed.>>
After watching them place and slide the aquarium into position, I can see why
this would be true, at least in my particular case. What would be your opinion
on this situation?
<<My opinion is that there will be some "flex" in the aquarium as weight, i.e.
water, is added, bringing the bottom completely to rest on your stand. Based on
what you've shared here, it can't go any farther than dead, flat level.>>
Could I slide playing cards between the tank and the stand, along the length of
the gap, so that this gap is thus filled, or would this
itself perhaps cause a problem if the tank then wants to settle once full?
<<Don't "shim" anything. The frame members and tank bottom need to "settle"
equally. Shimming the frame alone will create stress points on the bottom plate
of the tank that could pull the bottom away from the lower-front and,
lower-rear, frame members, particularly at the highest shim points.>>
I went with Oceanic due to their reputation as being a very good maker of
aquariums, but I also know that they will not guarantee the aquarium if it's not
placed on one of their stands, so I'm more than a bit concerned.
<<Understood. Why not call the outfit out that delivered and placed the
aquarium? Express your concerns to someone who knows what he/she is talking
about. I'm willing to wager that the 1/16" of "deflection" is not going to be a
problem but, then again, it isn't my money, is it? :) Worst case, so to speak,
have it returned and have another delivered. A pain in the backside, to be sure,
but for the kind of money you're spending, you deserve to be confident that all
is well.>>
Thank you very much.
Kevin Jackson
<<Good luck, Kevin. Tom>>
Re: Oceanic aquarium, custom stand
- 07/26/06
Tom,
<<Hi, Kevin.>>
Thank you so much for your timely and well thought out opinion. What you said
is what I basically expected to hear, and yes 1/16" is the correct
measurement.
<<Great minds, Kevin. :)>>
I do have a call into the store from which it was purchased, which is a marine
store with an experienced staff.
<<Excellent.>>
I also have an email into Oceanic Systems themselves, but thought I would get an
experienced 'outside' opinion since the last thing I'm sure they want to do is
come back and pick that brute up again!
<<I'm sure you're right, Kevin, but this is going out to all of our readers.
Oceanic, indeed, has a fine reputation. You'll be more than satisfied with the
results of their efforts as well as those of your own. >>
Thanks again.
Kevin
<<Any time. Be talking... Tom>>
Keeping an Aquarium Over the Fireplace...Don't! - 09/16/06
I wanted to get back into keeping tropical fish since I enjoyed it as a
child.
<<You'll likely enjoy it even more now...but do "brush up" and do your
reading/research before acquiring your system/livestock>>
I've been trying to make a decision where to keep the aquarium.
Right now, it looks like the best place to keep an aquarium that would be
focal in my house would be above the fireplace.
<<Mmm, no...not recommended unless you don't plan to ever use the
fireplace>>
The stone goes all the way up the wall of the living room. We haven't
cleaned the fireplace and used it yet, and I don't know how hot it would
get.
<<Hot enough...would be akin to placing the tank next to a heating
vent. And there are other issues besides heat here...any smoke escaping to
the room would rise/be circulated around the tank where it could/would
contaminate the water/poison the fish>>
The heat naturally concerns me the most. It might get used from time to
time in the future, and I don't want to bring up the temperature to an
uncomfortable amount inside the tank.
<<Find another location>>
The other concern is stability.
<<A moot point>>
I guess I would use a long, metal shelf across the fireplace, supported on
the ends going down to the floor, with support in the middle using screws
drilled into the stone. There are already numerous holes from the prior
owners, so the aquarium could cover more holes than it would create. To
counter heat issues, I imagine Styrofoam sheets underneath the aquarium
would insulate this.
<<No, would not be sufficient...ever tried to stand close in front of a
burning fireplace for any period of time? Just imagine the amount of heat
that is "rising up"! And heat would also be generated from the stone
chimney>>
It would have the second benefit of helping to level the aquarium. Does
this seem reasonable?
<<Not at all my friend...would result in misery for both you and your
fishes. Do please find another location for your tank. Regards, EricR>>
Supporting A 20 Gallon Tank 9/9/06
Greetings all, My first (and most -pressing-) question has to do with the
position of my tank. My boyfriend and I live in a small one room apartment,
we came across a 20 gallon tank out with the trash one day and decided to
give it a new home. Currently,
we have it set up on a sturdy dresser (there is also a piece of
cardboard beneath the tank), the dresser faces towards the door but we have
the tank set up so the "front" of it faces our all-purpose
eating-sitting-sleeping area. However, the tank is about two inches longer
than the dresser is wide, and so is unsupported for about an inch on either
side. It has been full of water for about two weeks now, and so far so good,
but the visual thought of the seams giving out from stress are really cringe
inducing. Do you think this is an "okay" setup, or should we really
reposition it so that the entire tank is supported? (I know of course the
latter would be preferable, but that would put the tank at a really crummy
angle for observation of the fish.) If you think this isn't "okay" could you
say whether it's an inevitability or just a not entirely remote possibility?
< Remove the tank and place a piece of 3/4 plywood under the entire tank and
than place in back on the dresser. This Tank with water will weight close to
200 lbs. The tank should be OK as is but I would feel better with a little
extra support on the end pieces. The plywood will also help protect the top
of the dresser. Some dressers are made of particle board and not solid wood.
I would start looking for another stand if your dresser is made from the
particle board.>
Finally I would like to thank you guys for your wonderfully informative
site, and also your time in reading (and answering) this letter. It is
greatly (greatly) appreciated!-Krisi
< Thanks for your kind words.-Chuck>
Caster Wheels on an 180 gallon Aquarium Stand 1/5/07
Hi guys,
<Joe>
I am currently setting up a 180 gallon tank behind a false wall for an Albino
Oscar breeding tank. I'll be pushing it up to the wall inside a small unused
room. Would it be OK to mount heavy duty caster wheels with breaks on the
bottom of the stand to allow it to roll back from the wall if and when needed?
<Mmm, possibly>
The wheels I have are the heavy airport anvil case wheels with breaks on
each. If so, how many (4 on the corners, or add 2-4 on the sides to balance
weight?
<Good idea>
As I have never seen it done, I'm a little worried that it shouldn't be
done. I'm placing a Plexiglas divider on the outside wall (pool table
protection) is the only reason I need to be able to move it (if I need to clean
water streaks, algae, etc.). Don't want a surprise of 180 gallons pouring into
the house when I stress crack the tank or break the seals.
Let me know what you think.
Thanks as always,
Joe
<This much weight can be moved... slowly, deliberately, on a level floor... I
would feel better if this were an acrylic tank rather than glass... takes
shearing force/s much better. Bob Fenner>
Stand
Dear Rob,
Thanks for your help! Here is another question: Can I do a stand in stainless steel that has been
galvanized?
<Mmm, yes... if you can arrange for none of the galvanization to rust, drop into the systems water... A good idea to coat over this coating... perhaps with an epoxy paint.>
What is galvanizing?
<A process for... use your search engine: "galvanizing">
My LFS uses them for his stands, seems to be working fine without any hint of rust.
<Eventually... all ferrous materials oxidize/rust... it "never sleeps" as the saying goes>
I am thinking of this route as wooden stand is rather too expensive. I heard that metal stands are good for
really big tanks, mine will have a weight of 800kg/m2
<Mmm, please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tksstds.htm
Bob Fenner>
Thanks in advance, John
Juwel Aquarium Stands
I am a small aquarium maintenance company and I picked up a new client that has an old
Juwel aquarium. I am needing a stand and can not seem to find one wholesale in the States. I have checked out the web sites and can only find the German site in which only has German prices. Have any suggestions?
Rocky Hawkins,
Thank You!
<Mmm, well these are great tanks... and their stands are nice, but you can likely find someone in the U.S. to make something comparable for less money locally. I would check the "Yellow Pages" under "cabinet, furniture makers"... give them the dimensions, and ask for a price for a custom fit, color, finish... Bob Fenner, who managed, worked in the service part of the trade for nineteen years>
Tank Stand
Hi Guys,
I have a 55 gallon acrylic tank, dimensions 48" x 13". I purchased an
Iron stand for it and the tank rests perfectly on top of the stand. The stand is
hollow in the middle. I just completed filling the tank up with substrate and
salt water and I was wondering, is it ok to have the tank sitting on the stand
with a hollow opening? I looked under the tank and it seems that the only
support for the tank is at the two sides (four corners). Should I be concerned
with this. Also, I noticed the front of my tank is "bowing" slightly.
Should I be concerned with this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
in advance.
Greg
<Hey Greg, if the stand was designed for a 55gal tank you should be
fine. IME the iron stands seem a little tipsy, if you live in earth
quake country like some of us you might think about finding a way to anchor it
to the wall. Acrylic tanks will bow a little bit, how much is it
actually bowing? We have some FAQs on acrylic tank repair. Best
Regards, Gage>
- Tank Stands for Acrylic Tanks -
I just finished setting up my new 180 gallon acrylic aquarium. It was
manufactured by Aqua Clear Aquatics in Jacksonville, FL. The
measurements are 72L x 18W x 34H. It's made out of 3/4 inch acrylic
on the sides and 1/2 inch on the top and bottom. It seems to be very
high quality from what I can tell. However, while we were setting up
the stand we made sure the stand was exactly level on the carpet (tank is
sitting on a load-bearing wall with a concrete slab foundation). However,
when we got all of the live rock and water in the tank the tank itself seems to
be leaning forward VERY slightly on the left side. <I want to be sure here -
you also have a stand 'made' for this tank, not one made for glass tanks,
correct? A tank stand for acrylic tanks should have a solid top - a flat surface
to put the tank on. Glass tank stands are often a frame, leaving the bottom
glass panel exposed in the middle. You cannot put an acrylic tank on a glass
tank stand. Well, ok, you can, but it will have disastrous consequences.>
It's not completely level so I wanted to check with you and see if you saw a
huge problem with this. <Yes - there will be non-linear stress on the tank
once the water goes in - at the very least this will lead to premature failure,
at the worst, it will fail very quickly.> The weird thing is the stand itself
is still completely level -- just the left side of the tank is leaning forward
slightly so I really don't understand what's going on?
Would you be overly concerned with this? <Yes. It is very important that this
tank be flat on the stand - level with the floor would be nice, but it's more
important that the tank and stand as a unit are touching at every point.>
Thanks for your opinion.
<Cheers, J -- >
- Tank Stand for Acrylic Tanks -
Ok, I'm literally having a heart attack at the moment! <Well... take a
deep breath.> Here's our plan. . . please tell me if there is anything else I
need to do. First of all, I didn't realize that acrylic tanks needed
flat, solid surfaces so yes, it is now sitting on a stand that is made for
glass. <Bunk!> So, could I drain all of the water out, take the stand off,
screw in a piece of 3/4" pressure treated plywood to make the solid surface
then, after making sure the tank is level return all of the water/livestock.
<Yes, that would work, but you might want to brace that plywood in the
center, or even consider using 7/8">
The tank has been set up for 3 days sitting on this improper stand. Has
it already been compromised???? <You should ask the manufacturer this
question. My guess is probably not...> If I fix the problem tonight after
work will the tank be ok you think?
<I think so, but again, you should ask the manufacturer just to be sure.>
Thanks for any help or extra advice you can give. I appreciate it
very much!
<Cheers, J -- >
- Re: Tank Stands for Acrylic Tanks -
One more quick question. . . when I empty the water and livestock out of the
tank in order to take the stand off and correct it do you think it would be safe
enough to leave the live rock and sand in the tank? <I think so, sure.>
Everything probably totals 160lbs. with the small amount of water that I won't
be able to pump out. <Well, you will need to be able to pick up the tank,
so...> Or, do I have to remove everything before taking the tank off the
stand? <In the end, you may.
Thanks so much! :)
<Cheers, J -- >
Tank Stand
Dear Bob,
I am new to marine systems, with some experience with fresh water. My
first step was to buy your book, The Conscientious Marine Aquarist, and
I wanted to thank you for this wonderful resource. While I save up my
money to set up a nice system, I am looking for a good source for
stands. My tank will be beautiful and I want a beautiful piece of
furniture to display it on, not some plywood or particle board box. Any
secret sources you know of?
George
<<Actually, do know how I would proceed, but it's not much of a secret... the telephone directory for your geographic area... under Carpentry... call, contact the folks listed there and ask them if they do such work, go visit them, and start drawing up plans of what you have in mind... How tall, how many shelves? Will you have them fashion a canopy for the top as well? Any other furniture in your home/work you're trying to match the color, texture of? Get a few bids... Otherwise, if you're handy... consider building it yourself... Just remember, make your stand, strong, level and planar...
Bob Fenner>>
Looking for a stand
I'm looking for a stand for a (standard) 55 gal. aquarium that I might be
able to get in a henna cherry stain or similar coating whether it be a laminate. Unfortunately
I don't know of any companies specifically that manufacture aquarium stands. My
last aquarium stand (55 gal.) I needed I made myself and the one before that is
actually a kitchen stand for a microwave. I would make it myself but
I'm looking for something that has a more polished appearance.
Thank you for your help.
Jeff Longmore
<Take a look in your local "Yellow Pages" directories under
"aquarium", "tropical"... and your local higher end fish
stores... You may get lucky and have someone nearby who already makes custom
tank stands... Otherwise, look under "carpenter",
"cabinet-maker" and ask if they would undertake your project... OR
consider taking "wood craft" classes and doing it yourself! Bob
Fenner>
Tank/stand
I have a 120 gal glass tank with 3/8" glass. on the bottom of the tank
I have a black trim all the way around in which the glass sets into. the basic
floating bottom type aquarium. my question is do I have to set something between
the frame and desk that the aquarium sets on? there is a 1/2" suspension
(gap) between the glass and actual counter it sits on? but the frame sets even
on the counter all the way around. .................. thanks for your time and
sorry for the long ?
<No worries. As long as the frame itself is well and completely supported,
you're fine. Bob Fenner>
Aquarium Stand design - 8/7/03
hello <Good afternoon>
I just had my 157g aquarium assembled and now I am thinking of how to design its
stand. <Cool. Nice size> Can you give me some illustrated designs?
<Unfortunately, No. Not in the scope and bandwidth of our site. Do some
research, try your favorite search engine (I like Google) and try "DIY
aquarium stand" as your keyword to start. Also, try your favorite fish
store and see if they don't know of someone who can build a custom stand.
Lastly, depending on what type of resource you will use (wood, metal, steel) you
could go to a weld shop or carpenter's shop and see if anyone has a background
in building aquarium stands.> My main problem is if the design will be able
to support my aquarium. <Yep. I believe that saltwater weighs close to 8lbs
per gallon (safe to allow for 10 lbs per gallon) add to that tank weight, rock
weight, and substrate weight. This has to be a structurally sound design.> I
don't wanna take any chances coz I'm goin to have a marine
setup. thanks! By the way, I'm planning to use steel instead of woods
and the lower part of the stand will house my 75g freshwater setup for my
piranha. <Sounds cool -Paul>
Bert
- Tank Stand Designs -
Hey I need to see if you guys have or know anybody with any aquarium stand
pictures but from the inside to see how they are build? <I'm afraid not.>
I need to see how they are build because I have a stand for a 280gallon tank
that I bought from someone and need to add more support to it but need some
examples. <Start with the four corners - these are really the beef of the
stand, and you could add additional legs in the center, but most stands are just
boxes, relying on their four to five sides to make the structure sturdy.> I
really want to reinforce the heck out of it because I know it's going to be
really heavy when water and reef are added and don't want it to break apart.
<If the stand was made for the tank, and unless it is heavily water damaged,
I'd just go with it... most stands are designed for the duty you describe.>
Help,
Mario
<Cheers, J -- >
He Can't Stand It? (Making The Perfect Stand!)
Hi,
<Hi there! Scott F. at the keyboard tonight!>
I bought an Oceanic 135 tank to make a reef tank. It came with a
custom-built stand for the tank, but not for filtering a reef tank (when I
bought it, the tank was freshwater). I have a baffled 40 gallon long
tank that I am going to set up as an algae scrubber, but it would not fit inside
the stand (I didn't have this tank when I bought the 135 and stand). I decided
to go with an Oceanic stand thinking that it would be a no-brainer fix, but when
I looked at the 125/135 stand, a 40 long would not fit under
it either! The two vertical beams on the back of the stand would not
allow a 4 foot tank inside at all (the store could get a 30 gallon tank under
it).
<Grr...Been there!>
Do you know of a web site where I could go to design my own stand? I know what I
want, but I am not sure how to build it to take the weight. I was wondering if
there was a site you could plug in the info on what you wanted, and it would
help you with the design.
Thanks, Paul
<Well, Paul, you might want to try Coral Reef Ecosystems in CA. I know a few
people who purchased custom made stands/canopies from them, and have been quite
pleased. here is their URL : http://www.coralreefecosystems.com/
You might want to try a local cabinet maker, too? Good luck in your search!
Regards, Scott F>
- Tank Stand Designs -
Hi WWM crew,
<Hello to you, JasonC here...>
I need to know where you stand on stand design. <Usually with both feet
underneath me...> I have ordered a Tenecor 96x30x36 (400 gallon
"dream" tank) which will be see thru, in the wall (dividing two rooms)
and on the main floor concrete slab. My contractor was planning to weld together
a steel frame and powder coat (dip treat) or water proof the steel with
Rustoleum type paint. Is this my best long term (10-20 years) option or should I
go with treated lumber or other? <Steel will offer you the best strength and
long term use, but you need to be really careful about keeping the salt water
off the stand. Even with the powder coating the stand will still corrode so just
make sure you keep the salt water off the stand - clean regularly.> I am
planning to have a sump under the tank and could use just a little guidance
there as well. Tenecor offers a "Reef Ready" set-up with a
sump design with heavy bio-ball use or my other consideration is the ETSS Ultra
High Flow sump design with optional micron filter bags. The main tank
with have (2) 8x8 inch corner overflows. Each overflow will have a 2
inch drain and (2) 1 inch returns. My long term plan is to have a
thriving modern reef tank of medium to high bio-load capacity with the easiest
maintenance possible.
Also, in the works are a Euro-Reef CS 12-2 external protein skimmer (external to
help keep temp down during the hot summer months here in Temecula, CA) and a
Knop professional S-IV Kalk reactor, though this may not be a large enough model
as it is only rated to 300 gallons. <Should be fine for this system.>
Thanks for helping me get started right and I look forward to reading more
outstanding books from Calfo and Fenner.
<Cheers, J -- >
Wrought iron stand; is this appropriate for 2nd floor with a 55 gallon
tank?
Hello Bob.
<James>
I picked up the tank. It was used and in good shape. However, the stand is iron
with legs that the person says was designed for 2 55gal tanks. This may be true
but with only 4 areas of concentrated weight distribution I wonder about using
this stand on a second floor.
<Me too>
Now if the weight is actually distributed and countered by the frame it-self and
the cross arms bolted on the back then perhaps this is another matter.
<Yes>
I (correctly or not) see this as (weight of stand + weight of empty tank + all
of contents once full {LR, sand/gravel, water & fish}) all distributed on 4
points of contact with the floor rather than a wooden stand where the weight is
distributed over the area of floor/carpet contact. I do like the stand as it
will hold a smaller tank and a wet/dry filter with Bio Balls and other
materials. Now, I was considering putting board under the tank and it will have
to be shimmed as it is very visibly not level. This makes sense as the house is
not level (all angles head toward street) from settling.
<The board, shims is the best idea... the actual shims should be under the legs
themselves... to allow the (piece of ply) wood to distribute the weight>
Looks like I have some (more ; ) ) reading to do on the site in the tank
section, however, I do not recall anything that was specific to a metal stand.
<Not metal, but this is covered re all aquariums, stands>
We got a digital camera. I will take some shots of my little 5 gallon as I am
very proud of it. I would love for you to see what you have helped me create
from your awesome book!
<Please send your pix along as attachments, with explanations, descriptions for
posting>
I imagine once getting the issues of the new tank over it will be about 1-1.5
months before transferring my livestock into it. I am considering adding my tank
water and filter bags once I have salt water. I am thinking of sticking with a
FOWLR setup since my wife likes some non-reef friendly fish and this will also
save a small fortune on lighting. As there is 55
gallons of capacity I may just mix the salt in the new tank at first... too much
volume for my present aging setup to handle between fresh and salt mix
containers. Dear God there are some hideous materials inside the fresh water
containers that settle out over only a few days!
Sincerely,
James Zimmer
Garfield, NJ
<Bob F, in HI>
All-Glass Stands
Hi Bob,
<Ramy>
Seeking your advice. I purchased a 150 gal tank, intended to be a reef tank. The question
is, do you have any experience with this company, All-Glass ????
<Yes... considerable... was a line I bought for Petco in the early nineties... have seen about for many years>
I am a little bit suspicious that their serious of modern oak stands will handle that size.
<Will>
I have investigated the stand, it is all wood but I am really confused to go with it or with a steel stand. Thank you.
Ramy Banoub.
Ontario, Canada.
<As serious a dichotomy that exists with cool versus warm colour carpeting twixt the N. American coasts, there is a division with stand materials... the west favouring wood, the east, metal... Both will work, have their good/bad sides (strength, rusting...). All-Glass make some fine, middle-cost aquariums, tops, stands... Bob Fenner>
Where to Put That Heavy Tank (10/22/04)
Hey WWM crew, <Steve Allen tonight.>
I am setting up a new reef tank and I had some quick questions about lighting
and filtration to run by you. I am going to set up a 75-125 gallon reef tank on
a kitchen counter in my parents house. This is apparently the only space
available. It is obviously not ideal because there is no place to put a sump.
<That's only part of the problem. Even the 75G will easily weigh well over 1,000
pounds with rock, sand, equipment, etc. A 125 can easily hit 2,000 lbs. Such
tanks should only be put on stands specifically designed for aquariums. This
counter is certainly not designed to bear such weight. A disaster waiting to
happen.>
My plan is to buy to of the larger dual skimmer CPR Bak Pak filters, and place
one on each side of the tank. <Seems reasonable enough, but a single AquaC
Remora Pro could handle the 75G.> If you see this as suitable then my next
question would be do I leave the bio material in or take it out since I will
have the LR taking care of most of the bio load anyways? <out> I could put the
heaters in there or something like that instead. <I do not know if this is safe.
You would need to contact CPR about that.>
Now on to lighting. I am debating between a 2 x 400 Watt MH/PC hood or a 2 x 250
Watt MH hood. The clams and I would both IMO be satisfied by 2 x 250 watts, but
it only costs 40 dollars more to upgrade a total of 300 watts. <Though we don't
need to cook the clams either, ;)> I have read that there are issues with this
much light though, such as too much heat as well as the lights being too close
to the tank and possibly burning the coral. <There is certainly such a thing as
too much light.> I have never in my past used MH so I don't know the answer. <MH
lights are very useful for many applications. The wise thing to do is to decide
exactly what you want in your tank and chose the lights that best meet their
needs. Read more WWM lighting articles and FAQs as well as other sources like
www.advancedaquarist.com and www.reefkeeping.org> I do not want to have to buy
a chiller. My last question is how big should the tank be? <Bigger is always
better, but if you are limited to that countertop, you will need to choose a
nano, though this is harder to do. You can count on a marine tank with LR
weighing at least 10 lbs per gallon, often significantly more. I calculate that
my 80G weighs about 1,300 lbs.> I can't have the tank be too large because of
the Bak Paks, and I can't have it too small because of the heat that the lights
give off. I want the largest tank that I can have under the limitations given.
<I have no idea what is safe for your countertop. A structural engineer or
architect may be able to tell you how much weight it can bear.> I do wish that I
could set up a sump and a real skimmer since that would be ideal. But, I believe
that with adequate care, my experience with reef tanks and water changes that I
can make this work. Thanks for your time, Michael K. <I have no doubts about
your willingness to take great care of a tank. Unfortunately, you may have to
wait until you have a better space available.>
| |
|
