Paint vs. Powder Coating 3/12/08
I am constructing a structural steel aquarium stand.
<A nice way to do a large tank.>
I see that commercial steel stands are generally powder coated. I am considering using DuPont Imron
paint instead of powder coating. The stand is going to be shipped quite a distance, so the chance of getting the coating/paint scratched or nicked is quite high.
<Hmm, the distance has less to do with this than the packing.>
Imron is used on boats and is supposedly very hard. Do you have any experience with using Imron
on aquarium stands ? What other paint do you suggest? Or is powder coating the best way to go for a commercial aquarium stand?
<Regardless of the type of paint (Imron being great), I always opt for the powder coat. It is simply a tough, cost effective and lasting finish. My 2 cents, have fun, Scott V.>

Rusting Tank stand   1/27/07
Hi,
<<Hi, Joe. Tom>>
The stand on my 120 reef is rusting due to the high moisture level in the room.
<<Doesn’t sound good, does it?>>
Wondering if you have ever heard of a stand failing due to rust and if you have any experience with Rustoleum around an up and running reef?
<<Haven’t heard of this personally, Joe, but I bet I will if you don’t take some action to correct this. Whatever product you use, don’t make it an aerosol. (Undoubtedly, you already had that one figured out but I wanted to make it perfectly clear for our readers.) One product that I’m familiar with in an industrial environment is “Extend” Rust Inhibitor. When brushed onto the metal it appears milky white but dries black. It combines with the oxidized metal to form a protective coating that protects the underlying metal. You might want to use it as a primer and brush a top coat of another paint on for aesthetic purposes. Your preference here. Don’t procrastinate on this one, Joe.>>
Thanks     
Joe Damone
<<You're welcome. Tom>>

Re: Rusting Tank stand   1/28/07
Thanks Tom,
<<No problem, Joe.>>
Have you used Extend around an up and running reef?
<<No, Joe, I haven't. I've used it extensively on large air handling units in a high-rise office building. Subject to high humidity loads during the "cooling" season here in Michigan and, obviously, non-toxic to people. In all honesty, though, I don't know of any implications of using it around an operating reef system, pro or con. (I'll transfer my response to Bob and seek his input. Watch the FAQ's... Tom>>
<I do think/believe this material is safe once cured. BobF>

Re: Rusting Tank stand   1/28/07
Got it. but my main concern is the fumes not when its cured thanks
Joe
<I see... I would definitely be doing the application/curing out of doors... in a well-ventilated garage perhaps if the weather were inclement. Bob Fenner>

Re: Rusting Tank stand  1/29/07
I guess I am not being clear. I want to do this with the reef tank up and running ON THE STAND
Thanks
<Sorry... I would NOT do this... I would take the tank down temporarily (yes, a big job) prep./clean the stand, paint it up. allow it to cure... then re-set-up. BobF>

Re: Rusting Tank stand  1/29/07
Bob,
       Thanks for your input. Is  the reason you would not do it when the tank is up and running is because of contamination issues?
Thanks
Joe
<Mmm, only partially... Mostly the desire to do a thorough job (need to get off most all the rot/rust) and secondly to avoid fume issues. BobF>

Wood finishing, plumber's tape for threaded connections, painted backgrounds, whew!
Hi Guys (a generic term that includes the female members of the crew ;o)
<Watch this...>
I have searched WWM & couldn't find a relevant answer - hopefully I've not missed!
<We'll see... or add to it>
Just a quickie re finishing the woodwork for my new 24" cube -
I will need some sort of finish on the veneered panels that I have now got for the new tanks cabinet and open topped hood but I am not sure what would be most suitable, I have been looking for some sort of polyurethane varnish type stuff but have so far drawn a blank (maybe its just called something else in the UK?).  The main area for concern will clearly be the hood woodwork as this will be the closest to the (salt) water & thus more chance of particles of finish (or some sort of reaction leading to leaching of nasties) entering the water column (clearly something to be avoided if at all possible (however I believe in planning for the worst - comes from working for the UK government I guess lol!!))
Any pointers to a suitable finish would be more than welcome.
<Polyurethanes are fine (durable, non-toxic once cured, attractive), though I am a bigger fan of Varathanes (as you speculate, perhaps a "Yank" (formerly colony) term... These come in different reflectivities (I like the less shiny), and are even more durable>
Would you be able to confirm my suspicion that PTFE (plumbers) tape will be fine for sealing my new closed loop system? From what I can gather this should be fine and nicely inert.
<Is... though I am a bigger fan (here we go again) of using 100% Silicone (the same material/el used for making glass aquariums... for thread to thread connections... makes a nice flexible joining, and allows for easy unthreading if needed later on... and "makes a seal" rather than allowing salt creep over time. Bob Fenner>
Ok just 1 other question ;o)
<Oh!>
I also need to paint the back (outside obviously) of the tank black to match the weir - I am planning to use enamel paint - Japblack I think
the brand is (do you see any problems here?)
<Am unfamiliar with this term>
- will I be OK just to go ahead and paint this or would I be better running some sandpaper or such
over the area to be painted to provide a "key" or rougher surface for the paint to adhere to?
<Mmm, I have used latex or water-based in-door wall paint here... sans scratching... to good effect...>
Sincere thanks as usual in anticipation
Cheers
  Chris

Got Wood?
Gentlemen:
My 125G saltwater tank occupies a corner of our den. The tank is encased by maple wood that has lost its luster due to the contact with saltwater.
Can you recommend a product that will improve the look of the wood without presenting any caustic problems for the fish?
<Yes, my fave: Lemon Oil... really works well, and smells great>
The local hardware store had a wood stain and a color stick; however, both products appeared to have toxic properties. Thanks, Mitch
<Be chatting, Bob Fenner>

Re-staining an aquarium stand.
Hi Bob, 
My wife wants to change the color of the stand my 75 gallon fish only tank is on. It is in the same room as my 55 reef that I have spoke to you about before. 
Do you know of a good method or special stain or paint that the vapors would not hurt any of my livestock? I can remove the canopy and stain it at night. The stand is the only issue. I believe the stain would soak in without any sanding. Please advise if you have done anything like this.
Thank you as always, Andrew
<<I would turn off the "air entraining" devices and any air pumps during the first hour or so of this process... and do the staining on a nice warm day in the AM so you can leave windows, doors open... Then do look into the many low VOC (volatile organic compounds) water-based stains.
Bob Fenner>>

To paint or not to paint
Hey Bob 
I am about to build a stand for my 105 gallon show tank. Heavy duty construction 2x4 and 4x4 framing and solid white oak covering and canopy. The question is :
I was wanting to stain it and poly-urethane it. Is this a bad idea considering the possible flare up of fumes later on if the house was to get hot or the canopy was to get hot from the lights. And would salt creep really make it look worse after a while. 
I think it would look good just sanded and treated but would look great stained and sealed. Any thoughts on the subject would be appreciated. Kevin Johnson
<<I definitely would seal the top/canopy in any case... and polyurethane's are fine, as are Varathanes... and come in less glossy finishes nowadays... And lastly, there are parts for separating hot components from the wood itself... and simply Mylar type products to install inside that serve dual duty as reflectors of light, deflectors of heat... use them. Bob Fenner>>