Glass aquarium on an acrylic stand?    4/25/20
Hello and thank you in advance!
I have an old, scratched up (I believe* 75 gallon) acrylic tank with a matching acrylic stand (Tenecor). If I bought a glass aquarium do you think it would be safe to use the acrylic stand for it? The acrylic stuff seems
so perfectly paired, with so much even contact. I worry the heavier glass aquarium with its stress points might not match up. Any thoughts? Thank you again.
Lance
<It should work; that is, all the commercial acrylic, made for acrylic tank stands I've encountered have been sufficiently strong, level and planar to accommodate the same size (base) glass tank. IF you're concerned re the contact points, do consider first testing to see if (with filling the new tank on the stand), that there are no gaps twixt the face of the stand and tank itself. IF there are small ones (like a credit card width), insert a
piece of foam (Lowe's, Home Depot...) between the two. IF there is/are large/r gaps, put a cut piece of plywood between them. Bob Fenner>
Re: Glass aquarium on an acrylic stand?     4/25/20
Thank you for your prior answer! I have one more related to tanks. Is it abnormal for a glass aquarium to bow out, or should it be perfectly straight?
<Glass does bow... not often perceptibly... but yes>
I have a common 55 gallon (48”x12.5”x21”)
<Okay... I recall the width as 12.75">
that is half an inch wider in the middle (13”, measured on top) than it is on the ends. And the middle plastic support brace is almost disconnected now on one side.
<Mmm; well; you DO want that plastic bracing (or a retrofit, like a Euro-brace) in place. Manufacturers do offer, sell replacements>
I am kind of freaking out, now that I know this. That’s what prompted my prior question, and am frantically looking to replace this tank out of fear that it is about to go. It’s an old tank, with a 17-year-old Ocellaris clown as one occupant. And she’s my baby and I want no harm to come to her.
<If practical I would drain the water down 5... 6 inches at least for now. Bob Fenner>

Your New Aquarium: Tips For Beginners - WETWEBMEDIA       8/10/18 Hi dear sir or madam： This is Karlin Tian from Foshan Yingfa Factory , i know you have engaged in production and sell the Aquarium tank etc . Our factory are specialized in providing composite waterproof boards for Aquarium furniture , Aquarium cabinet , Aquarium stand etc . Follow have some our client’s finished products for your reference . If you need this waterproof board contact me get more . Thanks and best regards. <Hello Karlin; we don't manufacture or-resell aquarium gear, but I will post, share your note and link for others perusal. Fortune passes everywhere. Bob Fenner>

Modifying a commercial aquarium stand.     8/29/15 Hi guys, <Tim> This is my go to site for tank info. I have a laundry list of questions, here. Hope it’s not too much. Here goes. I have a 37 Column kit from Marineland/Perfecto. The stand is called the “Newport”. It’s this one http://postimg.org/gallery/15f8vkkk2/0a627091/. <Okay; see it> I am thinking of modifying it for additional support, and I’m not sure how to proceed. <Let's see> The bottom is very thin plywood, probably 1/8”. I was thinking of reinforcing it on the inside with 1/2” plywood on the bottom. I would simply glue this to the existing bottom. <Could do; and I'd put some flat head short screws in every six inches or so. Oh. I should mention that the tank (via the frame) IS really only (meant to be) supported on the four outside edges... the ply in the middle helps even out the weight against these four edges> The walls are 1/2” plywood. I would reinforce those with another sheet of the same for each wall, cutting a hole for the door only. <And the walls likewise are part of strengthening the other wood pieces inside> I don’t need anywhere for wires to exit the back. My filters are internal. I would take the reinforcing plywood all the way to the new plywood bottom. The walls would hold the floor in place. The walls would be glued, and screwed to the current walls, with 3/4” screws. I would use steel L brackets to secure the new reinforcing plywood walls to each other in the corners. <Good> The top two supports are 3/4” plywood. I would place a piece in the middle supported by the current lip. which will be wider with the addition of the internal wall pieces. This will continue the support all the way across the top. <Sounds good> Alternatively: I am concerned about messing with how the stand meets the ground. Should I eliminate the floor. and bring the inside wall pieces up a 1/4”, and let the current “feet” support the weight? <I'd leave the floor in place. All pieces work together to hold the stand rigid in three dimensions. Necessary> Will this still increase the ability of my stand to carry the weight to the floor? Will the screws rip out of the old walls, due to the new walls not going to the bottom? <Again; If anything, I'd just add the mentioned sheets of ply> Or is my initial plan the wisest? <Yes> Third option: Looking at the photos, should i just leave well enough alone? This is a commercial stand. Maybe it will be fine? Should you even modify a commercial stand? <Mmm; well; it will function... but does look flimsy to me. In shaky ground California, I'd be beefing it up> Thanks for everything. Tim <Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Questionable Aquarium Stand     11/15/14
Greetings WetWebMedia Crew, I'm considering buying a 55g (long) acrylic SeaClear complete with stand, filtration and lighting. My concern is with the stand. It looks professionally built but on the deck(surface aquarium
sits on) there is only a 1in X 6in wood support on each end. So the aquarium is only supported by these two supports about a 1/8in above the deck surface. Could there be any way this is what the manufacturer intended?
<Yes; but... and I share your concern. Would NOT go with this stand w/o "beefing up" the under-support... Better still, finding, or building something more substantial>
I'm guessing the aquarium is being improperly supported and stand could be missing some parts. Could this of damaged the integrity off this tank?
<Oh yes; though acrylic tanks are (relative to glass) tough... too much, variable stress can result in failure>
The tank is currently full of water, no sagging downward but I did notice a little bowing forward.
<This is the nature of these production units period... Esp. 55's... typically nominally 48" by 13" by 20" or so dimensionally... made commercially with at times 1/4 (or better 3/8") material... and not always the better quality acrylic. Though SeaClear IS a good make/manufacturer IMO/E... having had LONG experience with the company, their old owners>
Owner said its been like that for years.
<Again; yes>
Aside from that tank is very clean with good looking seals and affordably priced(under $200), would you recommend buying? Thanks Brandon
<Yes; but the comments re the stand.... And what is archived on WWM re: MUST be strong, planar and level... and the floor underneath... capable of bearing the weight evenly. Bob Fenner>

Questionable Stand Design     ‏            11/9/14 Hi guys, I just bought a 38 gallon Deep Blue tank, and a plywood/wood stand. I noticed when a got it home that the tank did not stretch all the way to the ends on the left & right. <This is okay> A call to the LFS said that it is sufficiently supported in the front & back, and it does cross over the side supports, just not 100 %. Seems right, but I've included some a photo for you to look at. They show how far the talk covers the end supports. Think I’m OK? <Likely so; though I too am not a fan of brads... and would use two-by rather than one if I were constructing this stand... Not only does it have to support about 400 pounds of weight, but it needs to resist sudden jarring, movement> Also you can see from the same photo, that the tank sits on a 1/8” piece of plywood which covers 100% of the top of the stand. In another photo, you can see the wire brads with which the plywood was installed. At first, they were not quite all the way in. I took a hammer, and a screwdriver, and tapped them the rest of the way into the plywood. I was concerned that sticking above the surface, they could damage the plastic bottom of the tank if it rested on them. These brads seems like a place for water to enter the wood, especially since I tapped them down. A valid concern? <Yes; I would coat over them> Also, this plywood seems really thin. Will the tank end up crushing this super thin plywood, and resting on those metal brads, creating an uneven resting surface, or cracks in the plastic bottom? Another photo of brads is included. <Not likely> I was thinking about getting a 1/2” or better piece of plywood cut to size, painting it, and then gluing it on top of the thin piece for best weight distribution, and support. No water in it, yet, so it’s a good time to do something. <Yes> What do you think? Need more info, or photos? Necessary? Overthinking it? Good idea? Bad idea? Won’t have any significant impact? Take an Ambien, and forget about it? <Heeee! I don't like the thinness of the materials used, nor the fasteners shown... another piece of thicker plywood is a good idea... coated and screwed into the existing about every six inches including any lateral supports> Thanks, Tim <Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: Questionable Stand Design     ‏            11/10/14 Thanks for the advice. I also noticed that the plastic rim around the top of the tank was not installed level. On the left side and the back, I noticed a "wave" when looking at it. <This is just an ornamental piece (I hope, trust)... you could remove and put back on straight> Probably not huge, but if they did that sloppy, who knows what other corners were cut. I agree about the stand. 2x4 frame would be better. I'm returning tank and stand. <I am relieved to read this. Cheers, BobF>