Re: To brace or not to brace
Thanks so much, Bob. Still some weeks of planning/purchasing to go, but I will send you an image of the final design and a photo of the tank when completed. Deep breath ...... I've done lots of DIY, but never built a tank before ..... now, I wonder whether the floor of my 110 year-old Victorian house will take the weight .... ho hum, more sleepless nights!
<When in doubt, call in a structural engineer (find them in the "Yellow Pages" likely) and have them take a look... It may be that you'll need to shore up the floor... do spread out the mass with a good piece of plywood under the stand/support legs... Good luck and look forward to seeing the results! Bob Fenner>
Thanks again,
Chris

Hard aquarium questions
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Lisa>
I was wondering if you could answer some of my questions about the way aquariums tanks are currently made. I have seen the debate between using glass or using acrylic for the tank but I rarely see any mention of polycarbonate which has been used at Walt Disney World in the living seas.
<Mmm, me neither. I know of the use of this impact resistant material in greenhouses... its order of magnitude strength greater than acrylic...>
I rarely see it mentioned at any of the website businesses making aquariums. It's much stronger than acrylic and so it doesn't scratch. Why don't they use it more often?
<Don't know... have you investigated internet sources of information re this materials properties? Perhaps it bows badly in small thicknesses...>
Also why are the stands often made out of wood when they could be subject to water damage? Why don't they use a design more waterproof?
<Mmm, cost of production, materials... legacy of using wood>
I also have a question about how breeders advertise mailing people certain fish and corals. I wonder if that is safe, or will the sea creature be killed in the process?
<Sometimes>
Also is it truly possible to help the environment through the captive bred programs?
<Not necessarily... I have asked friends/associates in the trade similar questions. What sense does it make to construct artificial "live rock" that utilizes cement made from... corals and their reefs?>
Thank you for taking the time to read my e-mail.
Lisa
<Thank you for writing>

Should I get a pre-drilled tank?
Hello WWM crew! << Blundell today. >>
Thanks so much for your time and expertise! << In this case my time, I have no expertise. >>  
I am switching from a 55 gal tank to a 125 gal.  I currently have about 40 lbs of live rock in my 55 gal tank and will be moving that and my 60
lbs of sand to the new 125 gal. tank.  I have a Fluval 404 canister filter.  Will that be enough filtration for the 125 gal? << With more live rock and sand, then yes you'll be fine. >>  I want to add more live rock to the new tank.  How much more would you recommend to help with the filtration? << As much as you can afford.  Or about 90 pounds. >>  
Livestock consists of 1sailfin tang, 1 blue hepatus tang, 1 bicolor Pseudochromis, 2 ocellaris clowns, 2 yellow tail damsels, 1 lawnmower blenny, 3 pajama cardinals, 1 green brittle star, 2 cleaner shrimp, 4 camelback shrimp, 1 feather duster, some snails and hermits.
Also, I have been searching for more information on advantages of predrilled tanks.  I don't know enough about why they are better to
decide if that is what I want to purchase. << Worth every penny. >>  Could you direct me to some information? << They are so nice, and so trouble free.  I'd have a hard time buying a new tank that wasn't pre-drilled.  It is the way to go. >>  
My LFS recommended a wet/dry filter with bioballs, but I think I would prefer to keep my canister. << I don't like either.  I especially wouldn't go with a Bioball system when that same area can be used as a refugium. >>  What would my advantage be to get a
predrilled, if I stick to the canister filter? << You can easily plumb a sump for a refugium, or a closed loop system.  Two great ideas.  The refugium can really help out a tank. >>  I would like to find more information on sumps, too, and whether or not I should have one.
Thanks for the info! << Yep, you'll want one.  They are like having a whole other tank for the addicted reefers. >>
RC
<<  Blundell  >>

Sump capacity and tank stand capability 8/16/04
Good evening.  I have a few general questions about a sump for my 55 gallon FOWLR tank.  I currently have a Fluval 304 and a Aqua C Remora protein skimmer as my filtration with 50 lbs of LR to help.  I have been reading hours worth of info on your site about sumps and was wondering how to trade LR for bioballs in a wet/dry filter?  
<Hmmm... really not so. Its a matter of having enough live rock in the display tank (towards 2 lbs per gallon) to displace the need for bio-balls in the sump... but LR is not optimal if used as trickle media>
Do you literally place LR in the chamber and only have the water draining into the first chamber of the wet/dry dribble over the rock, not submerge it or am I missing something.  
<as per above>
I also saw in some old facts on your site about how to calculate gallon capacity of a rectangle by dimensions in inches and was wondering how do you know the capacity of a wet dry as water doesn't fill the entire thing?  
<just measure how high/full the sump is in inches and multiply L X W X H and then divide my 231 gall. to get gallons>
I was somewhat confused about the difference between a wet/dry box without the bioballs and a sump (such as Oceanic Systems Sump) as the Oceanic Systems Sump looks just like the wet/dries I have seen.  Is there a difference?  
<little difference from displacement by bio-balls>
and my final question on sumps; Is there a way to use my Aqua-C Remora hang-on tank skimmer in a sump/wet/dry filter with LR in it instead of bioballs?  
<yes... feed the skimmer from a divided well in the sump, or another otherwise primary vessel that catches all raw water first>
My main goal with the sump is to increase water flow to get more oxygen and also to get my heaters and Fluval tubes out of the main tank.
<all good reasons>
On a second topic which is probably easier, the 55 gallon tank I am using is a Perfecto aquarium with the standard size of 48X13X20, could I put this tank on an Oceanic Systems oak stand?  
<ahhh... what size Oceanic stand? That bit of info would help <G>. Well... do make sure the tank/any/every tank is completely supported by a stand of the exact same dimensions>
As I view the 55 completely filled as a substantial bit of weight, I didn't know if I would be able to use an Oceanic Stand or if I will have to purchase an Oceanic 55 gallon tank?
<no worries if the stands are the same size>
Thanks for your help as despite my efforts to find my answers in the archived facts, sometimes I still need help interpreting the facts! Have a great evening, Amy
<best of luck! Anthony>

Glass, Acrylic, etc 11 Aug 2004
Good Day Crew!! <Hi Corey nice to meet you, MacL here with you tonight>
This may not be a question that can be answered but I thought I would give it a shot. <I promise to do my best Corey.>  From all of the opinions and information I have gathered on the glass vs. acrylic tank debate, I have concluded that acrylic is far superior to glass in every facet except the one obvious detractant, its propensity to be easily scratched. <I think that there are people who would argue that point with you. I personally fine acrylic to be best for me and that's what I tell people. Look into both and figure out what works for you the best.>  I believe in the Today's FAQ's yesterday or the day before, one of the crew members mentioned that he had a 300 gal. acrylic tank that was so scratched up, he would never buy one again. <I haven't seen that one but doesn't surprise me. Let me just tell you that I have a 20 year old acrylic tank with no scratches on it whatsoever. Acrylic can also be polished and the scratches removed. If you get a scratch in glass its there permanently. But another option is that Starphire glass which is quite lovely.>  My question is have any of you read or heard of existing or developing material for tank construction that has all the benefits of acrylic but the scratch resistance of glass or better. <There are some stronger types of Plexi glass such as Lexan but its very cost prohibitive.> I know I am looking for the utopian tank, but thought it wouldn't hurt to ask. <Never hurts to ask and don't forget there are those innovators who are making takes out of wood and other materials and lining them. I guess my point here is find what works best in your world. Yes be careful with Plexi it does scratch. I have a scratch on the inside front of my tank right now that I need to take out but it was my fault. I dropped a piece of rock and it ran down the front. BIG mistake. I do think with Plexi that you have to be very careful. But like I said for me the benefits outweigh the costs.> Thank you for time and knowledge <Hope that helps.  MacL>
Corey

-Uniquarium?
just wondering if you have any info on the 75 gallon Uniquarium,  I recently purchased one used and need to know how to make the filter system work, thanks.
Jamie Jones
<Hi, sorry.  I'd suggest contacting the manufacturer of the tank for specifics.  Thanks, Ryan>

Overflow gph?
All-Glass aquariums lists maximum gph through the 2 built in "mega flow" overflows in their tanks at 1200 gph total. On a 180 gallon tank, isn't that
a little low? shouldn't the gph be more like 2000 or more?
<Yes... like most all such pre-made arrangements these are too small and few. Bob Fenner>

Re: Overflow gph?
uh oh, what should I do then? I was just getting ready to slap down $700 for one of these, is there a better route? I thought it was better than using hang on overflows?
<If you haven't done so, ask your dealer or the manufacturer directly to "up-size" the bulkheads... to 2" inside diameter if you'd like... or add another of the size they regularly provide. The big companies don't mind these "custom jobs". Bob Fenner>

Small Crack or Large Disaster (Crack in A Tank)
Hi! Tristan here
<Hey there! Scott F. here!>
I just bought a 135 gallon tank and got it for a good deal because there was a chip on the Inside of one of the corners. It hasn't spread past the silicone and isn't sharp to touch. Is this going to effect my tank efficiency? I put some more silicone around the area it was cracked. Thanks
<Hmm...I'm a bit hesitant to say absolutely that there will be no problem...Once the tank is holding water, the dynamic pressures are dramatically different. I'd consult the tank manufacturer before you fill the system. Better safe than sorry. Regards, Scott F>

- Special on Chipped Tanks -
Hi Tristan here
I just bought a 135 gallon tank and got it for a good deal because there was a chip on the Inside of one of the corners. its hasn't spread past the silicone and isn't sharp to touch. Is this going to effect my tank efficiency? <Hmm... probably not the efficiency, but possibly its integrity.> I put some more silicone around the area it was cracked <Well... best to test it out in the driveway or backyard. If the tank were to fail full of water and occupants in the house, you would be sad. Its hard to say exactly without seeing the crack, but personally I always err on the side of caution.>
thanks
<Cheers, J -- >

- Integrity of Chipped Tank -
I read through the forums and FAQ I found one similar situation and you recommended getting a new 55 gal tank *my tank has a chip in it, as well as several scratches on the INSIDE* chip is about 2/3's of the way down and is about 3/4 of a centimeter, am I risking a breakage with a small crack? <Always a possibility... best to test it outside in the driveway. Fill it up with a hose and see... those edges are important and a failure would be a really bummer.> or am I best off trying to sell it off as a terrarium, and buying a new 50/55 gal tank? <For the price of a new 55, I think it would count as cheap insurance.>
thanks
<Cheers, J -- >

Glass Tank Question
Dear WWM Crew, <Hi Caylen, MacL here>
I have a 50 gallon glass aquarium. Before I filled it up, it was 12 3/4 inches wide by 48 inches long. Now the glass is bulging 1/4 of an inch since I filled it with water. is this normal, or should I be worried? <I consulted with some tank builders I know and they said one quarter of an inch is nothing to worry about.>
thanks,
Caylen

Calculating gallonage
how big is a 48x13x21 tank?
thanks a lot
<If these dimensions are in inches... multiply them together L x W x H, and divide the product by 231 (there are about 231 cubic inches per gallon). Bob Fenner>

DIY Acrylic Tank Fabrication - Confused about Light Diffuser
Hello all
<Hi there>
I would appreciate it if you guys could answer two questions for me.
<Will try>
I am designing and building an acrylic aquarium.  I need to know how large the top (two) openings should be cut (to allow for addition of fish, rock, etc while maximizing the tank integrity, reducing bowing, etc.)  Material ½ “ nominal acrylic throughout, tank dimensions 48” long, 18.125” wide (front
to back), 30” tall (not counting ½ “ floor) roughly 112 gallons.
<Leaving a good three inches around all the cut-outs and routing about the corners of the cut-outs themselves should be fine. I would make the top at least 1/2" thick here as well.>
(Planning on having a 6” DSB but I have fairly long arms) I plan on using a router for the cuts, with 1.25” radius corners in the cuts to reduce points of stress in the top.
<Oh. Good idea>
1.   How wide should the lip be around the outside of the tank and how wide should the single center brace be?
<three inches for all>
(I plan on implementing Calfo’s overflow trough inside the tank and drilling the tank at the top back for both input and output.  36” long spillway will be made of ¼” acrylic since it presumably will experience little pressure.)
2.  Which way do you orient the light diffuser (egg crate) to concentrate light into aquarium as opposed to diffuse it…..skinny edge down or up?
<Skinny side up as I recall>
Thanks for all of your help.
Sincerely,
Michael
<Bob Fenner>

-Covering Reef Tank Follow-up-
<Wow, looks like you get both Marina and Kevin in this one, I hope you can handle it!>
>Thanks so much for the advice -- I never would have thought about the glare off the eggcrate.
<Neither did I, that is until I was blinded by it. It also seems to visibly cut down on the light, since the eggcrate is about 1/4" deep>
>>I wish I knew who helped you previously, I'd put this in their folder. Glad whoever it was helped.
<Me me me!>
>I think I'm going to try your acrylic frame with netting solution. There's actually a plastics store a couple of blocks away from my apartment that does custom orders.
>>So and so will be glad to hear it. Marina
<Do send pictures if you finish it!!! I've yet to start it myself, and would love to see how yours comes out! -Kevin>

-Covering Reef Tank Follow up to the Follow-up-
>Will do.  By the way, I'm having some free samples of PVC netting sent to me from a company called Internet (at www.internetmesh.net).  
>>Oh, really?  How'd you find this place?  Is it resistant to UV and heat?  This may be a good solution for a LOT of people.
>I'm told the "squares" in the netting samples I'm receiving range from 1/4" to 1/2".  If the netting is clear or at least very thin, it may also work well in a frame over the tank.  If it turns out to be good stuff, I'll let you know.  Thanks again, Kevin.
>>Absolutely please do.  Marina
WWM FAQ Crew <crew@mail.wetwebmedia.com> wrote:-Covering Reef Tank Follow-up-
>Thanks so much for the advice -- I never would have thought about the glare off the eggcrate.
>>I wish I knew who helped you previously, I'd put this in their folder. Glad whoever it was helped.
>I think I'm going to try your acrylic frame with netting solution. There's actually a plastics store a couple of blocks away from my apartment that does custom orders.
>>So and so will be glad to hear it. Marina

Used 55 acrylic hexagonal tank
Hi.  Thank you very much for your website. I bought a used acrylic tank and the bottom is no longer flat.
It is slightly bowed but there are no leaks.  I believe the bow developed because the tank sat on a stand that was hollow in the middle.
I plan on putting the tank on a flat surface.  Will the bottom return to being flat over time, or will it leak?  Thanks for any advice.
Bernie
<Good question... should be okay to place with a full support underneath. Does the tank rest flat (planar) when filled? If so, no problem likely. Bob Fenner>

Butter Fingers!
>Hi Marina,
>>Hi Devin.
>Were you able to use the hair creme, on your hair I am hoping, and not on a tank:)
>>Yes, thank you. I got my nice, big bottle of Kiehl's, and my long hair shall remain relatively nice and manageable.
>Anyway, I managed to run into trouble while adding some live rock to my tank this weekend. 
>>Uh oh..
>I have a glass cover, will basically I dropped the cover and the cover broke into 2 pieces. 
>>Sounds like a clean break came along with the bad break.
>I have always had bad luck with glass covers, they are heavy and slippery when wet, which usually leads to me dropping them.
>>I see.
>Any suggestions on how to repair the glass? Right now I have no cover and no light on my tank, which is not a big deal since I still don't have any fish. Will regular silicone work, my light also will rest on this glass or is their a special glass glue I should use?
>>Silicone would be the only material I would use, but honestly, if you're going to have your light fixture resting on this, I would take the two pieces to a glass shop and have them cut you a new piece. Be sure they grind the edges! I say this because the only repair I would try on it would make it even heavier, would block part of the light (likely a good part), and still wouldn't be safe. Shouldn't cost you more than, Ohh.. say $30? (It's been quite a while since I've had to purchase glass, but shops are often left with long, narrow pieces that they have little use for. 1/4" plate should do the trick, unless this is thicker.)
>Hope you may have an answer. Thanks and hope the cream worked out for you:) Devin
>>Indeed, this is the one Kiehl's product I have come to love.. even though it smells a little funky, it's da bomb. Marina

 Butter Fingers! Follow up
>Hi Marina,
>>Hi Devin, it's Marina, like where you park a boat?
>I will try silicone to see how it hold, I also found out a new cover cost $55. so I may go that option if the hold is not strong.
>>Ok. My advice is to be safe.
>Well, while I have your attention...
>>Which wanders..
>I have another dilemma brewing. I will keep my tank as a FOWLR (fish, live rock and some snails/crabs). 
>>Great, that means lighting won't be an issue (unless you get bitten REALLY hard by "the bug").
>My question is regarding supplements, specifically, calcium and Kalkwasser. I have been reading the forums, and for the most part I hear a lot of support for using Kalkwasser. 
>>Not really necessary for FOWLR. As long as your salt mix gives you an overall calcium level of 350-400, there's honestly no need. 
>But I also believe I heard Bob say not to use Kalkwasser and to instead to use a "two solution supplement". 
>>That's all dependent on ease of use, but really, Devin, you don't have to worry about it with what you're planning. You'll be lots happier keeping it simpler. See, if you do start dosing with supplements, you'll also have to start *testing*, otherwise you could end up doing real harm.
>Sometimes the more I read, the more confused I get, seems to defy common logic. What is this two solution supplement or more importantly, based on what I plan on keeping in my tank, what supplements should I consider using?
>>Salt mix, a hydrometer or refractometer (refractometer best if you ever need to use hyposalinity, otherwise good lab grade float hydrometer is fine), test kits for "the basics", pH, ammonia (NH3+), nitrite, nitrate, and a good thermometer. Really, truly, and honestly. Then, depending on needs, you move on from there. Go slow.
>Thanks Again Marina, hey so when do I get to see a picture of this new and improved hair of yours :)? Should I consider using this hair cream too? I am a little considered the funky smell would pollute my tank, just kidding.. Devin
>><giggle> It's not a new style at all, just long and straight. If I *didn't* use the Kiehl's it would be long and FRIZZY! Eek! You get used to the smell, but I don't think your fish would. ;) I had once submitted a piccie of myself for the crew "get to know ya" page, but I do believe one Jason C. never put it or the bio up. I guess since I'm holding the reins this month I'll do it! Marina 

Saving Himself the Hassle
>Thanks boat, err, I mean Marina:)
>>Heh.. my folks have some friends who love to call me "boatdock". Sheesh. Better'n that toilet paper!
>I like your advice, for now I will skip the supplement hassle. 
>>Thank you, I'm glad it's of help. 
>In regards to the lights, I guess a little bug already bit me, I bought a 36" power compacts with 2 96 watt lamps. 
>>D'OH! You better watch out! Next thing you know you'll be wanting soft corals, Corallimorphs, then you'll want clams, then LPS, next thing ya know.. man oh man.. Don't say I didn't warn you!
>So I ended up putting my silicone glass top on the tank, it seems to be pretty strong. 
>>Good.
>I also put the light back on and did not notice any give in the glass. Of course, I could not sleep comfortably with the light on the cover, I kept worrying that the glass would break and my $200 bucks worth of lighting would fall into the tank:(.
>>Hhh.. yeah, I would be experiencing the same worry. Especially now that you've spent some money on lighting.
>I am wondering, does the heat from the lamp weaken the silicon bond?
>>Heat can, but also the light quality itself can weaken that bond, too. I would avoid putting lights or anything on it for about a week. While silicone needs about 24 hours to cure, it's not completely cured for another week or so (depending on weather conditions, actually - sniff it - if it smells of vinegar, it's still curing).
>I guess I will keep an eye out for your picture, should I be looking for frizzy or straight hair :)
>>STRAIGHT! Thanks for reminding me. 
>Thanks again for your support, it is reassuring to be able to discuss these issues with someone. Devin
>>I know exactly what you mean, especially someone who doesn't have a financial interest in anything you decide, yeah? Marina 

Lee-Mar Aquarium
Hi Bob,
<Tom>
Haven't seen you in a long time. Good to see you are still doing so well in our industry.
You won't remember me but I had a couple stores in Vista and one in Fallbrook years ago and saw you each year at the trade shows in So Cal.
Still remember some of the parties.
<Ah, yes. How have you been?>
Back then I bought from Lee-Mar, now I work for them doing customer service and custom tank design and sales.
Our flat polished/Euro Style tanks have become very popular and we're about as busy as we can stand right now. If nothing else it's a sign that our industry is very healthy. This is a good thing as I doubt that you or I or any of the other "old timers" are up for a switch to another industry right now.
Keep up the great work,
Tom
<Hope to "run into" you sometime soon. I hope/trust that Terri Boyd is still at the helm there and salute you for your fine manufacturing... I do see the products about. Bob Fenner>

Truvu Aqua System question
Hello,
I bought a used 50 gallon rectangular TruVu Aqua System tank, but I am missing the 2 rectangular pieces that go on the top to protect the light from moisture.  Do you sell these parts?  If so, how much?  If not, do you know where I could buy them?
Sincerely,
Sharene
<The company has changed names a bit, but is still about in Hayward, CA... you can reach Aqua Plex here: http://yhst-32494300360055.stores.yahoo.net/
or call them: 800-800-6171.
though most any acrylic supply should be able to make you pieces that will do the job here. Maybe take a look in your local to more regional "Yellow Page" directory/ies re "Plastics". Bob Fenner>

Glass vs. Acrylic- The Tough Decision! 
Hello all out there, this question is to all of you, as I would appreciate as many opinions as possible. 
<Scott F. chiming in today> 
I am going to upgrade to a 180 gallon reef. I am going to be using the Aquamedic AquaSpacelight for lighting my LPS-dominant reef tank with 2-150w 10k MH's on the ends and 1-150w 20k MH in the center. I cannot decide whether to go with acrylic or glass. 
<Ahh...a common cause of consternation!> 
I would have 3 cut-outs on top where the light would be penetrating the most. I'm wondering if the existing acrylic top would interfere with the light getting into the tank, as I currently run my all-glass reef without any top. 
<Well, the acrylic will definitely reduce some of the light. On the other hand, with high intensity halide lighting, you're not loosing all that much. If it were me, and I were ordering a new tank (as I am about to, myself!), I'd opt to go with a "Euro Brace" configuration, which is essentially a completely open top, with just a perimeter of several inches around the sides. This allows maximum light penetration and circulation. It can be a bit pricey to do in acrylic, though, as I am finding out. Extra-thick acrylic is generally used in these types of situations, as the acrylic can bow if not braced, unless sufficiently thick acrylic is used. Glass tanks do have similar issues in terms of thickness, but they are generally much more commonly found in this configuration> 
Also are there any other factors that would make me lean either towards glass or acrylic besides scratching? (Is it really that bad?) 
<As someone who has scratched up his acrylic tank pretty badly, I think it is a big issue. You need to be aware of the scratch potential when scraping algae, or performing maintenance and aquascaping tasks in the system. The other consideration that you should think about is what I call "DIY-ability". Acrylic is much more forgiving in this regard, and almost any reasonably competent and well-equipped DIY'er can drill acrylic (notice that I said "almost any"? And, by the way- I do NOT place myself in that category! That's what my reef-geek friends are for!), whereas glass really requires skills and equipment that most people just don't have. It's best to order any tank (IMO), especially a glass tank, pre-drilled to your specifications at the manufacturer. You also have to consider the possibility of accidents and, for us So Cal people, earthquakes. I have seen a 48 inch long, fully-filled acrylic aquarium shift right off of the stand, with absolutely no damage following an earthquake. Glass tanks can be downright disastrous in these types of situations. Even if you don't live in earthquake country, do think about other possible issues with breakage, including shipping and transport> 
I have to make my mind up soon so I could order my tank and get it cycling. Thanks 
<Gee.. I wonder if I was more of distraction factor here? Well, do make the decision based on your own set of pros and cons, and go from there. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Is Bigger Better (Large Tanks)
Are large aquariums better than small aquariums? And if so, explain how? Thanks
<Well- that is a pretty broad question, and it may not be as cut and dry as you might think! One of the big (no pun intended) advantages of large tanks is that they provide significant water volumes, which assist in the dilution of organic wastes. Larger water volumes tend to be more environmentally stable, more forgiving, and, if well-managed, create more optimum conditions for fishes and invertebrates. Additionally, larger aquariums give fish more "physical space", which affords them the ability to establish territories and engage in more natural behaviors.
On the other hand, larger tanks require more equipment, can be more expensive to operate, and physically more challenging to clean, because of their larger dimensions.  Some fishes, such as Seahorses, are often kept more successfully in smaller aquariums, as they can be "closer" to their food sources. There is so much more to this debate than I could possibly mention here, but I think that these points can give you a good basis for your own further analysis. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

How Big Is That Tank? 
Hello, I have a question for you. I got a tank and don't know what size it is. Tank dimensions are: 36" long 12" wide and 14" high walls are 1/4 thick 
<The tank is about 26 gallons in capacity> 
And I was wondering my gph also. Thanks for your time.  Ben 
<I'm not sure what you mean regarding GPH...Do you meant how many gallons per hour you should run through the tank? If that is your question, it's hard to say...It all depends on the animals that you intend to keep. There are some standard "rules of thumb" for reef tanks, for example, that suggest 10-20 times tank capacity per hour as a viable flow rate, etc. Nothing hard and fast here...Do research the animals that you intend to keep, and provide accordingly. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Tank Recommendations (4/24/04) 
Dear Steve, <Greetings> 
My shrimp established her cleaning house (a ceramic pumpkin shaped pot) as soon as she arrived. Trigger never leaves her, he seems to get intoxicated with the cleaning. <Glad to hear. I hope he's not also salivating ;)> 
A quick question, you recommended a 240 gallon tank for me. What length, depth and height, glass thickness is best suited for me. I have a Lionfish, purple, yellow & regal tangs, a queen Coris wrasse and a Niger Trigger with live rock. Sorry for the crap question but I want to do my best for my fish and you know better than I do. <Actually, I am uncertain here. I'm the type to just o buy some pre-made tank from All-Glass or someone. You might want to check their site. On the other hand, there's a lot to be said for acrylic for bigger tank. When you get this big, the glass gets thick and heavy. There is a special type of glass called Starphire that is much clearer, but much more expensive. Search WWM for info on the options. Are you planning on building something yourself? You can send another e-mail if you have further questions and I'll see to it that someone who knows more about this answers.> Kindest Regards, James. <To you as well.>

Concerns about tank thickness
Hello Wet Web Crew,
<Hi there>
Wanted to first mention how great your site is, I've learned so much from browsing the FAQs.
<Glad you have benefited>
Quick question regarding minimal thickness on an aquarium tank. I've recently had built a 48x24x24 clear for life aquarium - unfortunately this was before I found the info on your site. They used 3/8" thickness, as opposed to 1/2" recommended by your site. Should I be concerned?
<Mmm, minimally. There may be a bit of bowing but the system won't fail>
I am somewhat paranoid that I'll come home to a swamp of 120 gallons in my living room floor slowly seeping down to my neighbors apartment. I hope that the only thing I should be concerned about is a little bowing. Also, anything I can do to prevent that (I was thinking of adding a strut in the back of the tank, but am fearful that this may make bowing more significant in the front!).
Thx, Tom
<This won't happen, unless there's a sizable earthquake... or a poor stand support. No worries. Bob Fenner>

New Tank recommendations 3/28/04
Hi Was wondering if I get your opinion on what you think of those acrylic tanks which you can buy that have the lighting and filtration built into the lid of the tank ?
<I find them to be limiting if not poorly designed for advancing aquarists I am not sure what they are called and couldn't find a link, but I was thinking of buying one to start up a marine tank. (I am looking at a 3foot tank - not sure what that is in gallons)
One thing I did notice was that it seems very difficult with these tanks to put in a protein skimmer as there is no room with the lid being used for lighting / filtration.
<exactly... as per my statements above>
Which leads me to the next question - do I need a skimmer?
<I very strongly recommend it. Else you need to compensate with lighter bio-load, more water changes (weekly would be nice), etc>
I know I need a skimmer in terms of the bigger debate - but in light of the tank logistics, can I get away with it.
<can, yes... but not worth doing without it>
How good would you say the filtration is in one of those tanks where it is built in ?
<weak to moderate>
I like the idea of having it all very compact and tidy.
<understood... although it comes with a price>
in my last tank I had a big Eheim on the floor a skimmer sticking out of hole in the glass which resulted in my carpet/furniture being eaten away by salt built up. What would your recommendation be?
<if you'll keep a sump, then a EuroReef or AquaC skimmer in a (first water) partition... or if no sump, the a top (rail) mounted Tunze>
Thanks Simon
<Best of luck, Anthony>

Uniquarium
I thinking of purchasing a 60gal 24x24x24 acrylic aquarium for fish only,  I'm choosing this size because it fits perfectly in my home.  I know this size i not ideal, however will it work.  I'm planning on using live rock.  I'm debating considering the all in one Uniquarium.  
What do you think?<The tank size would be fine.  But these Uniquarium are often hard to clean and can become a pain.  I would post this question on one of the message forums like ours or www.reefcentral.com.  This way you can get some opinions of those who have used them personally.  Cody>
Thanks,
Gary

Tank  design
  I am building a 48x48 with full top out of .5 cell cast ,and would like to know if i can go 30" on height. I cannot find a acrylic thickness calculator or a definite on any thing.  Help would be greatly appreciated since the material is on the way, and the supplier is going to cut it for me.                                                          THANKS
<You could make an acrylic tank of these dimensions from half inch material, but even with an annealed top it will bow badly on all sides. For thirty inches tall and this "run" (length of sides) you really should use 3/4" material. Bob Fenner>

- Tank Weight -
I currently have a 75 gallon tank with a 10 gallon sump in the basement of my 12 year old townhouse. I would like to increase my sump to 20 gallons and add another tank of about 30-40 gallons. Is there any way to calculate or find out the amount of weight my foundation can withstand? <Don't think you've reached that limit yet, but... you can plan on 8.5 pounds per gallon of water... it's a little less than that but you're better of rounding up in these equations. Then your rock, sand, and equipment... and of course the tank itself and the stand. I think it usually works out to about 10-12 lbs a gallon, perhaps a little more if you use a deep sand bed or a lot of rock.>
Thanks.
<Cheers, J -- >

- Tank Choices -
WWM Crew
I am going to be buying a new tank for a partial fish and reef tank.  I have been looking at two different set ups.  One set up is a tank with a wet/ dry filter system and the other is a DAS Aquarium with the filter built into the tank.  Both tanks are over 100 gallons.  Which system would you chose? <I suppose the tank with the wet/dry - although honestly if it only came down to filtration, I wouldn't pick either. I'm not at all a fan of built-in filtration options, and I really don't like wet/dries that much either.> I really can't make my mind up and have heard and read both the positive and negative aspects of both systems. <Indeed, would prefer just a tank with a skimmer and some live rock.> I am definitely more familiar with the wet/dry system, but I have heard a lot of good things about the DAS system. <I have heard very little about these... just going on my instincts regarding built-in/internal filtration.> Mostly looking for a 3rd opinion.
Thanks
Chuck
<Cheers, J -- >

- Tank Choices, Follow-up -
Thanks for the response.  I still haven't made my mind up as far as the tanks go.  The more I learn the more confused I get.  Sometimes impulse buying is better. <I don't agree - impulse buying is trouble for aquariums.> The DAS filtration system is internal to the tank.  The system consists of large venturi style protein skimmer and a polishing sponge and relies primarily on live rock and the skimmer. <Understood, still doesn't change my mind about being wary of systems with built in filtration.> I have been told you could add bio balls if you want to but it is not recommended. <Would guess the same. Cheers, J -- >

Battle of The (Aquarium) Brands?
My friend is considering purchasing a bow front glass aquarium to be used as a reef tank.  Right now he's considering either All-Glass or Oceanic. I know from what I've read that Oceanic is better quality.  But he wants a more definitive answer as to the differences (besides cost) between these two manufacturers.  He recently took a trip to the LFS and said that from visual examination he could not see a difference in materials between the
All-Glass and Oceanic bow front aquariums.  He said it was easy to see the difference between the standard aquariums, but not the bow front models. Can you point me in the right direction as to where I can find some literature on the differences between the two?  Or can you tell me? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks, Chad
<Well, Chad, to be quite honest, I've heard good things about both manufacturers. Personally, I have no experience with either, as I use acrylic, but I think that you'd be best served by posting a query on the WWM Chat Forum, to hear what your fellow hobbyists have to say. You just might meet some pretty cool people who can give you some great feedback! Have fun! Regards, Scott F>

Tank weight 2/12/04
Hey Crew, I was wondering if anyone has any experience with tanks and old apartment buildings?? Here's the situation. My family has been "watching" my tank for months since I moved and they're understandably fed up.  I have to move it or shut it down. Shutting it down would break my heart and is also very difficult as New York is freezing and I have to access to an outside hose to clean it out. Not to mention the financial loss of letting all my live rock/sand die. Anyway, I live on the 4th floor of an OLD building. Built in the 1920's probably....brick walkup in Manhattan. My tank is a 75gall with an iron stand. The weight of the tank w water I've read is about 815lbs. So I estimate that minus some water but plus liverock and sand and stand it's about 1000lbs.....???  Do any of you have an opinion/experience w this?? Of course I "should" get an engineer in there but that's expensive I bet. Will my tank be crashing through my neighbors ceiling??
<I would first check with the building staff (engineer, maintenance) and ask them about it.  Also, if they allow waterbeds, I would compare total weight and weight per ft^2 of each.  I am quite sure that this is outside of the expertise of any of the crew, and none of us would be comfortable giving you a green light.  In general, putting the tank against a load bearing wall, perpendicular to the floor joists is always a good idea.  Best Regards.  Adam>

Aquaplex/Tru-vu
hello, can you give me any information on  Aquaplex/Truvu? I have some of there tanks from the 70's and would like to ask Bill or Ron a few question about them.
thanks, tom
<What great fellows. I/we bought their acrylic tanks for years... still think they're located up near Hayward, San Francisco, but am out in Hawai'i right now w/o my address book. Please check with Todd Gabriel of Custom Aquatic re their info.: http://www.customaquatic.com/customaquatic/listbrand.asp?brandid=TV
Bob Fenner>

Tank volume or area
Bob,
I'm just starting out researching and reading a lot on your site and through books (just purchased Reef Invertebrates yesterday).  I'm at the stage of deciding on the size of the tank.  I want a tank that will fit an alcove in our family for built-in look. I'm looking at two bowfront reef ready tanks made by Oceanic to fit in the space: a 72 gallon (48Wx18Dx23H) and a 90 gallon (48Wx18Dx28H).   My question is whether its worth getting the larger tank, the 90 gallon, even though the added volume is due to the greater height of the tank, 28" versus 23".  Is the additional 5" going to require significantly more lighting and be more difficult to maintain?  Thanks. 
<Good questions... if the lost space at the top doesn't present maintenance/access challenges to you, "bigger is better"... more stable chemically and physically, more pleasing aesthetically. You are correct that the other dimensions (length, width) would be better made large rather than height... for your livestock as well as you functionally... but I would go with the larger system, and not be overly concerned re lighting. Bob Fenner>

Reptile Aquarium for Fish?  1/13/04
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I am thinking of getting a 200 gallon aquarium that recently housed a boa.
<Cool!  Nice big tank.>
What steps do I need to take in order to make this ok for fish?
<The 1st thing you need to find out is if this aquarium was originally built for fish & is not a homemade tank for reptiles.  The glass should be 1/2-5/8" thick.  There should be a brace going across the top to prevent the tank from bowing with water in it.  Then I would wash it out with a bleach/water solution very well.  rinse very well & fill completely. checking for leaks & using Dechlor, to get rid of any excess bleach.  Dry out the outside & leave overnight. If there are no leaks, you can drain & fill again for fish.>
And would the silicon seals have dried up and cause leaks? Should I change these prior to using it for fish?
<If you do detect leaks, it is very easy to take out the old silicone with a razor blade & replace.  I've done this with several tanks.  My friend had a bottle go through the front glass of his 125g tank (party!!).  He replaced the glass himself & 15 years later, it still holds water.>    
Thanks for your help.  
<You're welcome--Pufferpunk>

Glass or acrylic for commercial lobster store
Good evening crew.
<good evening>
We `are adding 7 tanks to our saltwater system. 4m long, 1m wide and 600 to 900 high. We will have lobster and shellfish in plastic cases. Water temp, 13oCelsius (Fahrenheit?..) Air conditioning in the room at 21o Celsius. We have been given mixed advice about using glass or acrylic. Is glass strong enough, will it crack, will it have condensation running down it. Your thoughts please..
Regards, Cameron
<lets play it safe here and consult the specs sheet for a glass and acrylic manufacturer. Glass can easily do the job (has done so for many years in public aquaria easily up to 1000 gallons). But it is a poor insulator and sweats terribly when holding chilled water. Either way, seek tolerances of "deflection" (ability of pane to bow without breaking) to confirm that your expected capture of the panes is consistent with mfg recommendations/expectations. Anthony>

Coralline Algae and Acrylic Aquariums 1/14/03
Hi Bob or Crewmate,
<Hi Joseph. Adam here tonight.>
I haven't even received my custom acrylic tank and I'm already fretting over scratches.  Bob, in his book The Conscientious Aquarist recommended acrylic tanks over glass.  I just started reading The Reef Aquarium and Delbeek and Sprung suggest that acrylic tanks are more suitable for fish only because cleaning the coralline algae off the walls will scratch the acrylic due to the calcium.
<A question for the ages!  Some folks swear by acrylic, some swear at it!  Acrylic is a better insulator, is clearer, is lighter and is more shatter resistant, but scratching can be an issue.>
Just how much of a problem are scratches with an acrylic tank?  If I am careful and use the proper tools to clean the tank, will I be able to enjoy watching a marine environment in my home for many years without seeing obvious scratches on the acrylic panes?  Even though I am willing to invest substantial time, energy and money in setting up and maintaining a reef aquarium, I am not willing to do this if, after a few years, I am seeing a scratched viewing panel first and a reef second.  I would just as soon fill the 145 gallon tank up with freshwater and goldfish.  Thank You,  Joseph Rouse
<There are a few tips for keeping acrylic tanks scratch free.  First, clean it often to prevent heavy build up of coralline (a cleaning magnet is a great aid here).  Second, be very careful to use acrylic safe tools and don't trap any sand or grit in the tool.  Lastly, just be generally careful in how you work in the tank, place rock, etc.  There is no doubt you will get some scratches, but under water they are nearly invisible and shouldn't detract much from your viewing pleasure.  Best of luck!  Adam>

Best size tank for first salt water
I want to setup a saltwater fish only w/ live rock.   Now here is my problem, I don't have much space.   As of now I am considering a 46 gallon bowfront or a 55.   I own a 40 gallon breeder that I would consider using.   Which tank has the better dimensions for setting up my aquarium. <I would always go with the larger aquarium. so in this case I would go with the 55 gallon>  In this aquarium I want to have 1 Percula clown, 1 damsel, 1, dwarf angel, 1 blenny, 1 royal Gramma and various shrimp/ hermit crabs. <The 55gal aquarium will be perfect for your plans>
  I should also add that I eventually might get into corals. <ok>  After checking out all of the message boards I still don't know what is the best skimmer to get so if you could help me with that it would be appreciated. <There are many different skimmers out on the market.. Red Sea and Berlin
make decent skimmers>   Any other advise would be appreciated.< good luck, IanB>
Thanks
Billy

Unusual tank procurement... 11/4/03 
Greetings and salutations to the WWM Crew, and thanks for taking the time to read this. I was referred here by Ananda who thought maybe Bob would have an idea. 
<Anthony Calfo in your service... our friend Bob is away diving presently> 
I'm trying to get my girlfriend a small FW setup for her birthday. The problem is I'm in Oman, and she's in the Philippines... What I'm looking for is an online retailer that carries a ~10 gallon acrylic "ready to run" type system and will ship it overseas. I'm really not overly concerned about the price, but I'd prefer something that comes wired for 240v so she doesn't have to put a transformer behind a tank full of water... I can't seem to find anywhere online that carries 240v equipment so I was hoping maybe some of you guys could lend a hand. 
<Hmmm... I'm wondering if it wouldn't be best for us to find you a merchant in Australia or Asia (since American products are wired for 120v). I apologize for my ignorance as I am not sure which countries use 240v... but I have the names of a few reputable merchants overseas that might be able to help you. Do try: 
SINGAPORE 
Watercircle Hydroponics 
Pte Ltd 33 Tyrwhitt Road Singapore 207535 
tel:(65)62993025 fax::(65)62995679 
website: www.watercircle.com.sg 
e-mail: sales@watercircle.com.sg 
AUSTRALIA 
Aquasonic Pty Ltd 
14 Commerce Rd, 
Wauchope, NSW, 2446 
Ph: 61 2 6586 4933 Fax: 61 2 6586 4944 
Reef Online 
www.reefonline.com.au 
Reef Specialist Distributor 
AUSTRALIA 
... In the USA we have a tidy little aquarium brand called "Eclipse" by Marineland that would fit your request I suspect (acrylic and integrated filtration). If for any reason you care to try an American supplier, do inquire with Marinedepot.com and ask Ken Wong if he can help. I recall that he ships some product to overseas clients and is a very savvy chap overall.> 
Obviously the ideal situation would be an e-tailer in the Philippines that will let me place an order with a US credit card and have it delivered there. All I seem to find when I search for Filipino e-tailers are home grocery delivery sites..... lol 
<indeed... I do not recall any Philippine e-tailers although there must surely be local merchants than can help. I have blind e-mailed a friend here (to respect his private e-mail address until he offers to share it) who lives in the Philippines. I'm hoping he can advise you of a viable merchant> 
Thanks to all who help, and all who'd like to but can't, James 
<thank you my friend... wishing you the best of luck> 
P.S. What a phenomenal site! I've been reading your FAQs and articles for around 2 months now, and don't seem to have made any headway! It is truly a wonderful thing you all are doing for this hobby. 
<heehee... yes, the site is enormous. Best regards, Anthony> 

Maximum Reef tank height? 11/2/03 
Hi Crew, 
<howdy> 
What is the maximum height you can make a reef aquarium before you run into problems? I am considering a 48" tall tank. 
Thanks, Greg 
<for the very generic/vague nature of your question, I am not sure how to respond. By problems, do you mean from poor light penetration )mp worries here... scale lighting appropriately with metal halides for punch)... or do you mean "problems" regarding adequate gas exchange with water at depth (can be tempered by aspirating skimmers/reactors and ozone). Is this a DIY tank? If so, you cannot build safely over 30" without a laminate or 4-sided capture. You need to do much more research here my friend. Do browse our archives on big tanks. Anthony> 

- Sort-of Custom Tank -
Thanks for your help. <My pleasure.> I guess I should have pointed out that the "custom" tank is already completed..... it was, however, not "customized" to my specs (i.e. background built in)...... at 1400 pounds and $700 in shipping, I was hoping to make do. <Doh.>
And if you're wondering..... yes, and am not happy with the manufacturer for his missing the background, but everything else is outstanding, so we settled out of court, as they say. <Well... here's to hoping it holds water. Glad things are resolved on your end. Cheers, J -- >

Mirror backed tank (10-6-03)
Hello this is Tracy from New Hampshire. <Howdy, Cody from Montana here today!>
I have a mirror back tank that I purchased 15 years ago in Florida. There is nothing wrong with my tank but I am looking for a bigger one for my fish. I cannot find one anywhere! Most stores don't even know what I am talking about, and others say they don't make them anymore. I even called the original store in Florida but they have since changed owners and don't carry them either.   Do you know where I can get one? I am willing to buy out of state and pay shipping costs. They are so much prettier than a regular glass back!  If they in fact don't make them anymore is it something that can be custom built? And by who?  <I have only seen one and that was one someone brought into the shop a week or so back.  I don’t think they make them anymore but you may be able to find a company that will custom make one.  Try posting on one of the message boards like the one on our website or www.reefcentral.com   You should be able to find something there.>
My tank has never sprung a leak or had any problems and I have moved it several times. I would love to find a bigger one.  Please help if you can<Hope this helps, Cody.>
Thanks,   Tracy

Does Size Matter? Tank Size that is...
Hey guys,
I currently have a 45(36x12) gal I am thinking about setup for FOWLR.  I only have a space large enough for a 36" tank.  I have thought about getting a 65 Gal(36x18).  I know that the additional depth will help far aquascaping.
<It can, depending upon the biotope that you are trying to replicate...>
My question is, will there be a great difference in water stability due to the larger size, to off set the cost of the new tank, stand, and the loss taken on the 45 gal that I have no use for otherwise.  Also what fish cannot go into the 65?
<Well, when you take into account the amount of water displaced by sand, rocks, etc. that 20 gallons can make a difference. Even the 65 gallon tank will probably hold less than 40 gallons of water once it's ultimately stocked and aquascaped, so there is some validity to buying the largest system that you can. And, by the way, you could always use the 45 as a sump/refugium for your 65 or larger, which will effectively increase your system's capacity! Just a thought!>
Dwarf angel, trigger, tang, puffer, will they be to large and work against my bio on the LR?
<Well, I'd personally hold off on any trigger, tang, and some puffers in anything less than a 100 gallon tank. That's my personal bias, but it is mainly based upon the ultimate size that these fishes can achieve, their need for physical "space", and the quantity of metabolic wastes that they are capable of producing. A well-stocked 65, or even 45 gallon tank can be every bit as impressive as a much larger tank if a few simple rules are followed concerning bioload, equipment and aquascaping. If 45 gallons is what you have to work with, then try to assemble a system and animals to compliment a tank of that size. Have fun! Regards, Scott F. >
Thanks again for a great site and service you provide to our hobby.    -Randy

-Glass tank MFG's-
Looking for Manufacturers of Glass Tanks for Reptiles and Aquariums, in California and out to the east coast. I guess I have not found the right verbiage to find them online can you help?
I am Manufacturing pet products that are for Reptiles and Fish Tanks, But would like to get the finished sizes of there Tanks.
<Here's the main three large glass aquarium companies that sell to everyone from ma and pop to PetCo: www.all-glass.com, www.oceanicsystems.com, http://www.perfectomfg.com  with All-Glass being the most popular. There may be others in CA, but I'm a Massachusetts folk :) -Kevin>
Thank you Bill

New All-Glass Tank Overflows - 9/19/03
Thanks for your reply Anthony.  I have to know your opinion on the new all-glass tank overflows.  I do plan on upgrading my 90 gal reef to a 120 in a few months.  My question is to you do you approve (or like) the new design location of the overflow boxes on the reef ready tanks.  Would you get one of the new ones or get an old one, what are the drawbacks of them being in the middle back of the tank?   I don't know if I like how they put them in the middle of the tank.  Do you think I should get one of the older styles while I still can , that is if it will suit the reef keeper better than the new style.
<I'm grateful that they have addressed the issue in the hobby of having/providing drilled aquaria. My opinion of their old and new styles however, like any other commercial one I've seen, is that they are insufficiently drilled - lacking enough or large enough holes. What happens then is that aquarists often buy a properly sized sump/return pump for their display... but learn that the drains cannot handle them. So they throttle back the pump and need to add powerheads in the display... how ironic! And they are nearly as ugly, IMO, as those glass overflow towers <G>. My preference is to have overflow holes drilled high along the back wall... not the floor with a glass tower. I described modifying this with an internal horizontal overflow (more discreet and efficient) in my Book of Coral Propagation. We have several messages about it in our archives here at wetwebmedia.com too... do check them out with a keyword Google search - toggle terms like "internal horizontal overflow" and see what you get. Hmmm... not sure if I've helped here or not. Holler if not :) Anthony>

Tanks and earthquakes
Hello everybody,
<Howdy>
I'm sitting in my leaving room 3 meters away from my 60 gallon glass tank and about 20 kilometers away from the north Anatolian earthquake fault line in Istanbul, Turkey. The fault line is told to be very similar to the Californian quake fault line. About 4 years ago a big earthquake hit the region and we wait for the next big one to happen, closer to the city of Istanbul this time, with a 60% chance if I recall correctly within the next 30 years, hitting 6.5 -7.4 on the scale. It may just happen next minute. Can you tell me anything about how to secure an aquarium against earthquakes? So far I have an anti-slip sheet between the tank bottom and the tank stand, and that's it. I want to upgrade to a 100 gallon 80" tank but the idea of 900 pounds of water and rock pouring on  me as the earth tries to shake us off it's back scares me a little. So, any ideas or experiences will be highly appreciated.
Thanks,
Husnu
<I share your concern. Please take a leisurely read through the marine sections of our site (WetWebMedia.com) under "Set-Up", particularly "Tanks" "Stands"... and the accompanying FAQs files. We like acrylic tanks (over glass) where the ground shakes but good... and to build stands that are braced in three dimensions... wedging them into corners, between other heavy furniture... even attaching them to walls. Many other ideas apply. Bob Fenner>

Aquarium cross braces
I appreciate all your support in the past and am presently trying to solve a problem with my 330g tank. It is 84"x30"x30" and it is 3/4" glass. When the built the tank in my home they put two 1/2" glass 14" cross braces in 14" from each corner. This lead to a 14" opening 28" opening and then a 14" opening. The problem I am having now is the left and right halide is directly over the cross brace. This is dimming the light and I am sure must be changing the spectrum of the bulb.
<Agreed>
Not to mention also warming the brace itself. My question to you is do you know, or know someone that would be able to help me fix this with problem with smaller braces having to be thicker or some other solution?
<Not smaller... but you could cut the current braces and move them to the middle of the tank>
I know from what I have read that they should have spaced them out more evenly. This would have helped to some degree but the braces need to be about 8" wide to really help with the lighting. Thanks a lot for your help and have a great day, Ian.
<Is it worth considering moving the lights out over the side cut-outs and adding a third (perhaps higher wattage and temperature) MH to the middle area? Bob Fenner>

Re: Aquarium cross braces
I am sorry for not giving you the complete information on my lighting.
Currently I have 3 175W Halides 10000K and two NO Actinics. I also have a combination of SPS and LPS corals, clam, leathers.  I don't mind your idea of moving the lights around. I could move the two end ones out over the 14" opening. Then I thought I could add another 175W Halide to the middle
opening so there would be two. Would this be enough lighting for over my tank or should I consider getting two more halides of higher wattage for over the cross braces.
<For this depth (30 total inches if memory serves) I might well increase the wattage of the center MH... perhaps a 250 Watt Pendant... and move your clam, perhaps some SPS there>
If so what would you recommend for over my 30" deep tank?
Thanks for all your help it is greatly appreciated.
<Many possibilities... perhaps review the MH FAQs archived on WWM re others choices in lamps, fixtures. Bob Fenner>

Fiberglass tank
Ok this is a short question. Is it possible to make a plywood tank and cover it in fiberglass to make sure it doesn't leak.
  I was looking to make my wife a small clam pond in the house 36"x36"x16"  
<Short answer, yes, possible. In the not so old days, fiberglass, resin and (marine) plywood were (along with large screws) often what marine wholesale facilities systems were constructed of. Viewing panel/s can be siliconed to inside cut-outs. Bob Fenner, who asks, "have you seen ClamsDirect. com's clam system units?">

Tank Capacity
Hi Bob,
<Jorell>
This has got to be one of the best if not the best sites in the world.  I wish there were more people like you in this world, who loved to share their knowledge.
Your patience must be rewarded.
<They are my friend, here, by you>
I live in Hong Kong and we are fortunate to have one of the largest Aquarium markets in the world, I have been keeping Marine Life in general for about 8 years, gave up in the middle because I was appalled by how some people here treat Marine Life, fish are stored in small plastic bags for hours daily.  However I could not resist keeping them again. And so I started and had a nice reef set up in a 50 gallon tank.  However disaster struck when I moved house and I lost all my corrals and fish when someone inadvertently put a metal bar on top one the tubs to support them, when I was transporting my stuff and rusty metal leached into the tub where I lost everything. I managed to salvage something and am running the same tank which with the exception of one plate coral (left back) is all fish. And they are doing well.  The only problem is that I have a constant battle with Hair algae. That I try take off weekly mechanically and combat it with Macro Red algae which I was fortunate to have sprouted out of a rock and is doing very well. (My phosphates are quite high).  I do not want to invest too much in this tank as I will be ordering a custom made 400 gallon tank soon (as soon as my financial position improves as I lost my job recently, just found one and am clawing my way back)., this will be a major investment.
<And an adventure!>
I just need some clarification:
I have copied this from one of your Q&A's
Quote
"I am setting-up a 38 gallon 48"Lx18"Hx10"W tank that will be illuminated by 2 55 watt 10,000K CF bulbs. The tank will be filtered by
live rock, live sand, a protein skimmer, and a mud/algae refugium.
<Okay>"
Unquote
As per my calculations this person has a 28 Gallon tank (US Gallon) and not a 38,  unless my method is completely wrong.  If I am correct she needs to be informed.
<Mmm, in approximate measures, multiplying the length times width times height (in inches) and dividing by 231 (the approximate volume of a U.S. gallon) I come up with 37.4... With the gravel, glass, not filling the tank all the way... it probably will hold about ten gallons less... Perhaps this is what you mean>
Love your site and log on almost daily.
Thanks Very Much,
Bobby
<Thank you for writing and your kind, encouraging words. Bob Fenner>

Re: Tank Capacity
Hi Bob,
<Hello again Jorell>
Hey, thanks for writing and Ooops!! No, I did not mean after Gravel and you are absolutely right, and my math is all messed up.
<A lesson in serendipity... you are aware that there are about 231 cubic inches per gallon... and a "standard" aquarium "box" we can multiply its three dimensions (in inches)...>
My calculation process was very complicated and I messed it somewhere. But I did it thrice and got the same results so I wrote.
<I understand... repeating the same mis-formula>
Incidentally when I calculated the Volume of my tank by my old method or yours I get about 50 Gal, So I probably typed a wrong number somewhere!!  This error is embarrassing.
<No worries. Bob Fenner>
Thanks a Ton.  Jorell

Tourist hit by flying sharks
By Lorna Knowles
August 7, 2003
TOURIST Hazel Swinden got closer to the sharks than she planned when she visited the Sydney Aquarium six years ago.
In a scene straight out of a horror movie, the tank she was admiring exploded, unleashing seven thrashing sharks, 2.5 tonnes of water and fragments of glass.
She is one of two people now suing the owners of the Darling Harbour aquarium for negligence.
The tank cracked open on February 20, 1997. Four people were taken to hospital after they were hit by a "wall of water" and seven white-tipped and black-tipped reef sharks went skidding across the floor. Ms Swinden, 59, who lives in Western Australia, is claiming damages for physical and psychological injuries.
She is suing for negligence, breach of contract and breach of implied warranty to render due care and skill under the Trade Practices Act.
Her lawyer, John Pender, told the NSW District Court yesterday Ms Swinden suffered a severed tendon in her left ankle that caused her discomfort while standing and walking. She also suffered multiple cuts and bruises to her wrist, arm and forearm when she was slammed against a wall during the flood.
Mr. Pender said the aquarium was negligent in failing to use laminated glass for the $12,850 "special exhibit Antarctic tank" installed in August 1990.
"Laminated glass would have only marginally increased the cost," Mr. Pender said.
"The defendants were negligent in failing to select special glass of a suitable thickness and/or tensile strength for the construction of the special exhibit tank . . . having regard to the volume of water in the tank and the probability of static fatigue occurring."
He said the aquarium had applied a plastic film to strengthen the glass in 1994.
But the film only held for a few seconds before the tank exploded three years later.
The aquarium has denied liability for the accident and is seeking indemnity from the company that designed and installed the tank, Commercial Aquariums.
Ms Swinden, a shop assistant from the Perth suburb of Pearsall, was taken to the Royal Prince Alfred Hospital where she had surgery and remained for four days.
She said people had thought she was joking when she told her story.
"I got swept across the floor with these sharks flapping around. I thought I was dying. I thought I was dead," she said.
The case, before Judge Terry Naughton, continues.
Herald Sun
<Hoboy... something to keep in mind if/when building public aquariums. Bob >

-AGA new style overflows-
This is for Kevin Sliech, if possible: <More than possible!>
Kevin:
I read an email that you replied to in the dailies on 6/24 (sorry, I am behind). I was wondering where you got your information on All-Glass' changes,
<Straight from the horses mouth, our regular tank-delivering wholesaler along with a pamphlet from AGA. I don't believe they're available yet, truck loads had supposedly left but we still continue to receive old-style tanks as they blow out their stock of them.>
and if you can point me to a link or elaborate further?
<It appears that AGA has yet to update their website this decade, so it will be little help to you. In short, the overflows (now called Megaflow or something fancy-pants like that) will be located on the back tank wall instead of in the corners. On tanks with a single overflow it will be centered on the left (I think left..) back half of the aquarium. On the 4' tanks that require two they will be each centered on a half of the back. On the 6' tanks, it appears that instead of centering them on two 3' sections on the back, that they're instead centered on the first and last 2' sections. I hope this makes some sense... I believe the drilled holes will be the same, but due to the shape of the overflows, there will be many more slots. This is great for folks like me who have all kinds of crap growing and blocking them. The accessory kit has the "Durso" modification to silence the gurgling. I hope this long winded response helps! -Kevin>

Tank/stand
I have a 120 gal glass tank with 3/8" glass. on the bottom of the tank I have a black trim all the way around in which the glass sets into. the basic floating bottom type aquarium. my question is do I have to set something between the frame and desk that the aquarium sets on? there is a 1/2" suspension (gap) between the glass and actual counter it sits on? but the frame sets even on the counter all the way around. .................. thanks for your time and sorry for the long ?
<No worries. As long as the frame itself is well and completely supported, you're fine. Bob Fenner>

- Metric Conversion -
Dear Crew:
Just an FYI regarding the questioner who thinks that 600 liters is "close to 300 gallons US." This is not so--it is only "close to" 160 gallons:   600 L  times  1.06 Q/L  divided by 4 Q/G  equals 159 gallons. <Doh!> More simply: 600 L divided by 3.79 L/G equals 158G.  The discrepancy between these two formulas comes from rounding 1.057 Q/G to 1.06 Q/G.
If one does not want to memorize conversion factors, here are three great links to online automatic converters for all sorts of
measurements: <This is exactly what I do.>
http://www.convert-me.com/en/
http://www.admiralmetals.com/metric_conv.htm
http://www.sciencemadesimple.com/conversions.html
Thanks for al your advice since I started this great hobby last Christmas,
Steve Allen
<Thanks Steve, will post on the dailies and hopefully everyone in the crew who can't convert metric will see it. Cheers, J -- >

DAS system
I adopted a 75 Gallon DAS system tank - previous owner did not know what kind of DAS and as a result I don't know if I'm running it correctly (What the hell are all these slots/chambers for etc.).
<Hmmm... not familiar with DAS systems. I did a Google search for "das aquariums" and came up with thousands of German sites, lol>
I come from a w/d SUMP, fish only system background and am a little cautious of the anaerobic system in the 75 DAS tank. I plan to ease it into a reef tank and wondered if I need more filtration on this tank - canister, ext. SUMP etc.. I have a small power head and the return from the DAS system for right now.
<What's in the tank for sand, live rock, and filtration?>
So, My Questions.
1. does DAS have a Website clearly defining their system's?
<Couldn't find one, do you have a better name besides DAS or could you contact the previous owner about where he got it?>
2. do you think I need more filtration and what would you recommend?
<Can't recommend anything without a description of the stuff mentioned above.>
3. the adopted tank came w/ two 47-48" 10,000K, one ACTINIC blue and the other SUPER DAYLIGHT. the ballast Says Max 40 W power
- SO, am I running 40 W total (20 per bulb) or 80 (40 per bulb)? And is this enough light to start thinking about my reef.
<Nope, either way. Please read this article to get you thinking about other types of lighting: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm>
Thanks
-Jake
<Thanks for writing in Jake, let me know how the tank is set up. -Kevin>
Dallas, TX.
PS. Amazing website, thanks!

-DAS system: take 2-
> I adopted a 75 Gallon DAS system tank - previous owner did not know what kind of DAS and as a result I don't know if I'm running it correctly (What the hell are all these slots/chambers for etc.).
<Hmmm... not familiar with DAS systems. I did a Google search for "das aquariums" and came up with thousands of German sites, lol>
* Sorry, Dutch Aquarium Systems, D.A.S., I did find their site though. *
> I come from a w/d SUMP, fish only system background and am a little cautious of the anaerobic system in the 75 DAS tank. I plan to ease it into a reef tank and wondered if I need more filtration on this tank - canister, ext. SUMP etc.. I have a small power head and the return from the DAS system for right now.
> <What's in the tank for sand, live rock, and filtration?>
*Live Sand, 20 25Lbs LR, D.A.S. H39 filter, Power head w/filter*
THANK YOU!
<Sounds like it would be fine for a reef tank, provided appropriate lighting was applied. No idea what their filter is all about, but in a naturally built aquarium, the live rock and sand will take care of all your bio-filtration and more. All you need to do is supply strong water circulation, and ta-da, reef tank! So, in preparation for a reef, I'd add some more cured live rock, increase the sandbed to at least 3-4" if it's not already that deep, and later begin to remove all the bio and mechanical filtration from the tank (i.e. run filters w/out floss/sponges). Good luck and read up on the gazillions of articles here on WetWeb! -Kevin>

Braces on 130 gals tank
Hi,
<Hello>
I am in the process of making a 130 gals tank which is 30" high. I am using 1/2" glass. I have placed two 4" wide braces  from front panel to back panel at 1/3 the total length  each. Also I have placed 4 " triangles /braces  on each of the 4 upper corners for additional support. Do you guys think it is necessary to add some sort of additional braces on the bottom pane  or is the bond on the bottom enough? I was thinking of placing  some 4" wide braces  on the bottom as well.
<How are the braces attached? Are they also made of the 1/2" glass? I would not make/place braces on the bottom (inside or out). Not useful here... and I would have made just one larger (as in a foot wide or so) brace for the top and siliconed it on the top edge in the middle... and maybe two four inch wide ones at either end, over the top including the side panels. Please do fill, test this tank outdoors. Bob Fenner>
I appreciate any help you can provide me with.
Kind regards,
Harold Chamberlain

Re: Braces on 130 gals tank
Thanks for your prompt reply, as usual.  Actually the braces are all made of 1/2" glass and are siliconed to the top of the aquarium, as are the 90 degree pieces I siliconed on each corner.
<I do like the corner braces>
Would it be a good idea then to put an additional brace in the center of the tank (aside from the ones already in place?
<Yes. I would>
You have no idea how much your website has widened my aquarium horizons, it is absolutely the most comprehensive information source anyone could
have access to, electronically or otherwise.
<Thanks to folks as yourself, writing in valid, meaningful content>
Thanks for your help,
Har