FAQs about Caryophyllid Coral Disease, Pests, Predation
Coral Pests and
Disease; pests, predators, diseases and conditions by Sara
Corals, Elegance Coral,
FAQs on Euphylliid Disease:
Caryophyllid Disease 1,
Caryophyllid Disease 2,
Caryophyllid Disease 3,
Caryophyllid Disease 4,
Caryophyllid Disease 5,
Caryophyllid Disease 6,
Caryophyllid Disease 7,
Euphylliid Health 8,
Euphylliid Health 9, Euphylliid
Health 11, Euphylliid Health 12,
Euphylliid Health 13,
Euphylliid Health 14,
& Elegance Coral Disease/Pests,
Euphylliid Disease by Category:
Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy),
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease by Category: Diagnosing,
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
Caryophylliids 2, Caryophylliids 3, Caryophylliids 4, Caryophyllid ID, Caryophyllid Compatibility,
Coral System Set-Up,
Coral System Lighting,
Stony Coral Identification,
Stony Coral Selection,
Growing Reef Corals,
Stony Coral Behavior,
Hey there! Euphyllia glabrescens partially closed? Hey, data, rdg! 3/3/13
I have a Euphyllia glabrescens (gold torch coral) that is partially closed
<Retracting from the hard skeleton... bad>
There are two mouths on this particular piece. On one side where a mouth is,
the coral is completely inflated and happy, where as the other side is
deflated and all sucked in. Is this a sign of splitting or a sign of dying?
I did do an iodine and Coral Rx dip on the piece hoping it's not "hurt" or
sick in anyway, but I can't tell if it is just splitting or if it is sick.
All of my parameters seem to be in the normal range,
<... need numbers, not subjective evaluations>
and I even did a 20% water change just to see if it would perk up...to no
avail. Let me know what your thoughts are.
<... read here:
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
I know the photo isn't all that great, but you can see how one side looks
okay while the other is closed up. Also, there are no signs on brown jelly
disease. I don't see any thing that looks brown around it.
Frogspawn, hlth. 12/20/12
Dear crew members at WetWebMedia,
Happy holiday season! Hope everything is great.
Could you advise me on a Frogspawn coral growing bubble?
The bubble involves one of top branches, is about 2 cm in diameter and
deflates to 1 cm at night.
<Ah yes; have seen this before>
The colony is 2-3 year old. The bubble became noticeable 2-3 months ago. I
poked it once to deflate
<Mmm, don't do this. Just be patient. Will heal on its own in time>
but the hole healed, and the bubble reinflated. The bubble wall seems to be
an overextended regular tentacle next to a mouth, and I can almost see the
bottom part of the coral with some random filaments down there.
The bubble is filled with clear fluid. The water movement should not have
caused the bubble as it is on the top branch. Would the light caused it? I
have an 110w LED covering 2/3 of aquarium, and the Frogspawn is close to the
light but not directly under.
<I don't know the root cause... perhaps a local bacterial infection>
The tank is a 3 year old 40 gal breeder with alk at 3 mEq and
calcium at 400. Other inhabitants include Candy Cane corals, a small Acan
colony, a few unknown SPS frags and a pair of Clown fishes. I do not
notice any warfare between the species.
I am thinking of dissecting the bubble at the base, and if it reappears,
respecting the whole branch. I did not find an answer on WetWebMedia or the
web. If it is there, could you point to the right direction? Any suggestion
or advice is welcome.
<Myself? I'd just wait, not dissect, or frag this colony. I urge patience>
<And you, Bob Fenner>
Hammer, hlth. - 10/22/2012
I have a problem with my hammer. I've had it for about 4 months and
it's been fine. In the last 2 days it has shriveled up to this.
<Appears to be badly bleached, lack colour>
Parameters: 55 gallon, 30 gal refugium. Ammonia, Nitrate,
Nitrites are 0. Phosphate at 0.
<Oh! Photosynthates, most chemosynthetic organisms require soluble
nutrients... Uh, NO3, HPO4... not 0.0>
Calcium 460, Alkalinity 3.5 meq, ph 8.0-8.2. 4 T5s (260 watts). The hammer
sits in the middle (half way up) of the tank with a little flow on it.
I feed it Rod's maybe 2 - 3x/wk.
<A good food in my estimation>
The problem I think is the salinity. It usually is at 1.025 but I checked
it the other day and it was at 1.028. So I did a water change and it's back
down to 1.025 but I fear that is what has done the hammer in. Is 1.025
still too high?
<It is not too high... this is about ideal>
Is there anything I can do to bring this coral back?
<Stop doing whatever you are doing to make the NO3, HPO4 zip>
Everything else in the tank is doing great! Thanks crew!! Jennifer
<Have you read on WWM re Euphylliid husbandry? I would do so. Bob Fenner>
I'm not doing anything to remove the nitrites or phosphates. I do weekly
water changes (I used Tropic Marin).
<My fave brand>
I don't run a Phosban or anything of the like. Is there something I can do
(or not do) to raise the nitrites and phosphates?
<Ah yes... a bit more "heavy" on the foods/feeding... till you register some
<Cheers Jen. BobF>
Re: Hammer - 10/22/2012
I do run a protein skimmer 24/7. Would u recommend turning it off every
once in awhile.
<Mmm, no; I'd run it continuously>
I was reading an article on WWM on Phosphates and it said skimming can
reduce, albeit a small portion, of phosphates. Also currently I rinse the
frozen food (Rods and Mysis). Should I keep rinsing?
<Worth trying not rinsing>
Lastly I'm using the SeaChem phosphate testing kit. Would you recommend
<The SeaChem test kits (actually all their products) are fine>
Thank you sir!
Re: Torch Coral Receding (might have been sent twice)
I appreciate all your advice and I apologize for the long delay in letting
you know what happened to my Copperband. Unfortunately, though it did begin
eating, about 2-3 days after my last email it died.
<Sorry to read/realize>
It appears, as it so often does in this hobby, that my trouble is not over.
This is the fastest growing algae I have ever seen and after I remove it,
largely via siphoning it off at water changes, it comes back within a week.
<Need to "fight" in other ways... competition, denial of nutrient/s,
My system has low nitrates, less than 5 ppm, and zero phosphates, or so my
test kit says, but I couldn't tell the difference between the lowest three
colors anyway so maybe I'm reading it wrong. I have read that if there
is enough algae in the tank it will utilize nitrates and phosphates faster
than they can accumulate so tests don't register.
<This can be so>
I believe from what I have read that this is likely caused by my rocks
leaching phosphate into the tank, as about 1/2 of the 100+ lbs were dry base
rock when I put it in (2.5 months ago). So they were not fully
developed (for lack of a better word). I did make sure the tank was
fully cycled before putting in fish. That being said I had to take all
of my corals from this tank and move them to my 34 gal Solana so that they
were not being choked by the algae.
Now the new problem I am having is that since the end of July my torch coral
has been getting smaller and smaller. It has about 5-6 heads and is
maybe a 4 inch circle. I feed my corals in this tank Azoox Coral Food,
Mysis shrimp, and the occasional Spectrum Pellet that falls on them.
Everything looks pretty good except the Torch and my Duncan, it was being
harassed by clownfish and sexy shrimp in the bigger tank so it looks bad but
I'm hoping in the shady spot in the Solana a few of the heads will be saved
and I can frag off any dead parts.
So I have a few questions:
1) Is the torch coral not getting enough light ( about 150 par) or not
<This lighting, PAR value is fine (anything more than 100 would be)>
The larger tank has t5's and LED supplements and the smaller tank has
2) Is it improper flow? The area is relatively calm and my coral looks
no different than the ones in the fish store when it was extended?
<Not likely a/the issue>
3) Is the chemical warfare amongst my corals killing off the torch because
its more sensitive?
<Could be... but the new-ness of the system, it's lack of stability overall
is likely much more cause>
4) If so, how can I fix or temporarily mitigate the fighting?
and the linked files above... Best to "start over" in stocking if
practical... isolate (quarantine) most/more mal-affected, reintroduce over
(Other than the GAC and water changes (about 5 gallons or so weekly)) I
only need to leave the larger tank coral-less for another couple months
until the dry rock stops leaching phosphates.
5) Are my nitrates too low in the 34 gal (don't register on API kit)?
<Not too low, no>
6) Should I just move it back to the 75 gal where it will be in a much
bigger area away from all the other corals?
(Again, the problem here is that the super fast algae chokes out my corals
in a matter of a week or two meaning I have to take them out and clean them
<You NEED to solve this algal issue... Read here:
and the linked files...>
I have a couple Zoas and palys in the 75 to see if they survive and they
seem to do O.K. (i.e. they multiple and have good color) as long as the
algae doesn't get to them. Would that mean that the Torch stands
a better chance in there?
<Considering the algal issue, the present condition in the smaller system,
more likely yes>
7) Somewhat unrelated to the torch, have you ever heard of algae growing
like this, it doesn't even bother to form complex structures (i.e. no
identifiable strands, veins, roots) its like a brown fluffy version of red
<Oh yes... unfortunately many times, places.>
None of my LFS people had any suggestions other than to keep doing what I'm
<Mmm, Read on WWM re>
Sorry for so many questions and information all in the same email but
everything seems related and I'm not sure where to separate them, and to be
honest I have only been able to keep Euphyllia for 11 months tops
(frogspawn), most of them are much shorter lived so this is a problem far
exceeding the current issues.
p.s. If you think that my belief about the rocks leaching phosphate for the
first several months is wrong let me know because if not I have another
<Could be a contributor... easy to melt a bit (organic or not acid...
CH3COOH, HCl, test for HPO4) and test for>
p.p.s. I attached pictures to the bottom of the email. They should be
a total of less than 500 kb. The top (or first from the left depending
on how you receive this) is a picture when I first moved it. The other
two were taken a few days ago and shows both the same angle as the first
picture and a side shot of the coral (will have to use your imagination for
the side shot of the first picture sorry).
Solana Reef Tanks stats
470 ppm ca
<Too high... need to review where you're boosting this and slow down, stop
(having trouble keeping this down and Alk up so this is as close as I can
get using 2 part, hopefully the corals will catch up)
8-9 dKH alk
1350 ppm Mag (but for past month it has been dropping from 1500 ppm as I put
additives into the tank)
35 ppt salinity (1.026 sg)
pH is between 8.2-8.6 (Usually between 8.2 and 8.3 but last week Wednesday
the meter read 8.6 so I went to calibrate it and it needed no adjustment but
the next day, and since, it has been within normal range)
Oceanic salt mixed in separate mixing barrels for up to 2 weeks before use
and I change weekly about 5 gallons.
RO/DI water with a 0 TDS reading from the meter
Purigen (couple table spoons)
GAC (changed weekly)
Phosban (Changed Monthly)
<I'd ditch this for now>
AI Sol Blue
Vortech mp10 in Nutrient Export EcoSmart Mode
Tunze Nano 9002 (Just got it for the Solana a few weeks ago and just got it
dialed in a few days ago)
Small Cristata Euphyllia (I know there might be an issue with allelopathy
between the Euphyllias but this coral is about 1/4 the torch and they are
not near each other)
Florida Ricordea (one orange one green)
Metallic Green Mushroom
Assorted Zoas and Palys
2 small (2X1" Acans) - One of each species
12 Cerith Snails
Duncan Coral with 7-12 Heads
75 gal Tank
0 Ammonia, Nitrite, < 5 ppm Nitrates
Don't measure Alk, pH, Ca, Mag, since hard corals were removed but at the
time they were pulled out:
Ca 450 ppm
Alk 9.3 DKH (steady)
I use biopellets and a Octopus 200-xs skimmer
Pair of Occ. Clowns
few Zoas and palys
Used to have butterfly fish but now that its dead I might remove biopellets
(or buy more fish)
Re: Torch Coral Receding - 8/17/12
Dear Bob Fenner,
Thanks for the quick reply. To clarify there are two tanks I am
talking about. The 34gal has been set up for over a year and was
supposed to be used for Zoanthids and a couple frags of stony corals.
It is the 75 which is new and having this algae problem and which was
where I put the corals from the 34 gal after I moved about 2 months ago
(the 34 came with and the 75 i set up in new house).
<Ah, I see>
I seem to be getting mixed signals regarding allelopathy. I was
always under the impression that Euphylliids were low in the chemical
<Ah no... the genus ranks near the top... 8 or 9 on a scale of 10. See
WWM... the Caryophylliid Compatibility FAQs>
relying more on sweeper tentacles to compete. According to this
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/CorlCompArt.htm Euphylliids (is that the
proper plural form?)
<Mmm, yes... Veron's last work... he "elevated", created a new family
for this genus, others>
are inside the sweeper tentacle section but are not directly referenced
in the allelopathy section. However, most of the user questions
refer back to the articles on allelopathy, which I always thought was a
big problem with Shrooms, Ricordea, Yumas and Plate corals (in weakest
to strongest potency).
<Mmm, no; your order is fouled up... again, gone over and over on the
You mentioned in my question that its not likely the main cause of my
coral's current predicament anyway.
<Is, but/and "brought on" by the challenges detailed/mentioned by you...
a typical "cascade event"... Read here:
Moving the corals from the 75 to the 34 was my way of keeping them in the
more stable system that has been set up and successful. I had planned on
waiting 5-6 months (thinking November/december) before reintroducing
corals into the 75. So for my understanding, are you suggesting
that I move the Torch back to the 75 which has only been set up for
about 3 months?
<Yes I would>
Maybe I go the other way and just put in the toughest corals for now
(scans and Zoas) and have just the torch in the 34 gal? I have no
other option for tanks with lights on them, my local fish store won't
hold anything long-term and I am all out of reef tanks.
So to address the rest of the issues with the algae in the 75. So
I put in some Chaeto into the sump from another tank to hopefully suck
up some of the nutrients to help limit what the brown algae gets.
<Please... read... >
It has been in the sump for about a week and its a nice dark green color
and seems to be growing at least a little. I currently perform
25-30 gallon changes weekly on the 75 to try to combat the algae and do
not run Phosban on this tank. I was thinking about switching
from Phosban to Phosguard by Seachem but I read that it is an aluminum
Didn't iron based products replace them as the aluminum would irritate
<Not in low concentration... and there are other/alternatives...>
As far as predation goes I have two turbo snails, 20 banded Trochus
snails, and half dozen Astrea and Cerith snails, oh and one Nerite
snail. As far as predation of the algae should I add more
I don't want to be two months down the road, fix my phosphate (maybe)
issues, and then have a bunch of starving snails. I was also
thinking a Starry Blenny and a Hectors or Jester Goby to help eat the
algae. If you have any suggestions please let me know. The
other thing I was thinking was to remove my yellow-eyed Kole tang
(purchased on your recommendation) from my 120 FOWLR and put it in the
75. However, I always feel chasing them around the tank is a lot
of stress so I may just leave it in there and get some other fish that
does similar work.
As far as my current progress goes as I missing anything else. I
don't want to toss the rocks so I guess I will have to wait but in the
mean time is there anything we haven't talked about that I can do for
the long run?
<... keep reading. B>
Also as far as testing phosphate goes the biggest problem I have is
telling the difference between the lowest levels my test kit gives out
This seems to be a problem with all the test kits for phosphate that I
have been shown. I don't know if you are willing to endorse/comment on
an particular product over your site but I was looking into the Hannah
Phosphate Checker, the electronic ones. Do you have any personal
knowledge of these products, their error rates can be 10% which seems
awfully high and could potentially limit the usefulness of the digital
p.s. The eventual stocking list for the 75 is the current fish
(mystery wrasse, royal gramma, pair of clowns, and dragonet) plus pair
blood shrimp, starry blenny, small goby (hectors/jester), watchmen goby
and one larger fish, like a small tang or Butterflyfish. The total
volume is around 95 gallons and the tank is 48x18X18 is that enough
Hurting bubble and doughnut coral 6/29/12
I have 2 bubble and an Indonesian Scolymia sp
(doughnut coral) that are not doing so great, they're
still extending their tentacles, albeit poorly.
But there's part of their skeleton that has turned black. The coral
refuse to extend near the black area of the skeleton. Should I remove
the dying part, and how the best way to do it?
<I would not remove the necrotic tissue; but would make up a slightly
lower (a few thousandths) spg solution of seawater (or just add fresh to
a portion of the system water) and a ten times dose of iodide-ate for a
five minute bath>
I suspect the infection started because the bubbles fall from the rock
near a lobo coral.
<? What? If too near, I'd move one or the other>
the Scolymia did not
acclimatize well and has never accepted feeding. Water parameter is
within the norm, PH 7,9 salinity 1.025, nitrate 0, phosphate 0,
<Chemophotosynthates need some (measurable) NO3 and
HPO4. I'd remove whatever chemical filtrants you're using here>
calcium 400, alkalinity 9, magnesium 1200.
My second question is why these corals are not doing well (I also have
several other LPS not doing so great although they're still extending).
<See above. They're likely starved>
My system is 90g, with an oversized DIY skimmer (rated for 150g) running
non stop, NP-Biopellet reactor, and Rowaphos fluidizer.
<Ditch these last two. Unnecessary and expensive>
Additives are Grotech Ca, Mg, and Alk supplied daily via dosing pump
(balling light). Lighting is DIY 3wx32 LED fixtures, mix of Royal blue
and cool white (50/50). Do you think the light is overkill as some of my
LPS won't extend their polyp in direct light?
SPS seems to be doing fine of course. Or is it lack of nutrition
from over filtration?
<Ding ding ding! Yes>
Do you think I could benefit from using a timer for my skimmer?
<Maybe. Worth trying out>
Would a Biopellet reactor and RowaPhos fluidizer benefit from timer
instead of running 24h non stop?
I'm thinking about installing an Algae turf scrubber
<Do study carefully. Most designs are not worthwhile>
and see if it can replace the fluidizers, I've heard that they're great
way to supply nutrition to your tank. thanks as always for your valuable
<Mmm, and let's have you review here:
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Euphyllia <RTN>, Percula Clown
<Aggr. beh.>– 04/10/12
I currently have a 55 gal. It is a reef tank with LPS corals.
Livestock: 1-ish Bubble Coral, 7-8 Duncan Corals, 1 Serpent Star, 1
Pencil Urchin, 1 Pin Cushion Urchin, 1 Four-Stripe Damsel,
<<Can become a “terror” as it matures>>
1 Yellow Watchman Goby, 1 Tiger Pistol Shrimp, 1 Percula Clown, 1
Scarlet Shrimp, Several Turbo Snails, Hermits, and hundreds of Pods.
One of my Duncan Corals about a month ago began to develop some bumps
around the base, since then the bumps have developed into new polyps.
However, my Bubble Coral was not doing as well one month ago.
<<Do make sure its placement does not provide lighting that is
too intense…a common mistake with this coral in my
It had RTN and lost about 50% of its mass. Now it is starting to come
back a bit but I noticed something strange. Some areas of the skeleton
never really lost tissue but were no longer connected to the main part
of the coral. These two or three areas now have small bumps that have
formed in a circular pattern with what appears to be a pin hole in the
<<Mmm, yes…often a reaction (survival response) to
Is this going to form a new coral?
<<If whatever caused the original complaint is gone/has been
corrected, likely yes>>
Can it be separated from the rest of the coral? There is ample space to
cut it off.
<<You can…though you might want to wait a bit and let the
“babies” become a little better developed>>
Do they need fed anything specific?
<<Small meaty foods like Cyclop-Eeze, Mysis, etc.>>
I feed with mashed/pureed fish and Kent Zooplex. What else would be
I also have a Percula Clown. He was wonderful and not at all afraid of
hands. I used to feed him by holding pieces of fish between my fingers.
He always would be waiting for me at the surface of the water but now
has developed a nasty habit. He now will bite my hand whenever it is in
<<Only fish I’ve ever had to draw blood, was a
Is this due to the food he expects or is it defending a certain patch
<<Likely becoming more aggressive/territorial with maturity…not
Also, I would like to add some small schooling fish. I was thinking
about Blue-Green Chromis.
<<You’ll have better luck with a small social Cardinal
species…especially in this size tank. In my experience even the
so-called “peaceful” Chromis will whittle down their numbers in all
but the largest systems (hundreds of gallons)>>
I was going to get about 5 or so.
<<The number should be fine with the right species
selection…though the Damsel may prove problematic, as already
The tank however, is open top. Would they be likely to leap to their
<<Any fish harassed by tankmates may “leap” in an attempt to
I had Firefish Gobies that despite the reassurance of the store
<<Maybe caused by the Damsel/Clown>>
I was thinking something that is going to be easy on the system, school
well, yet still be pretty. Any other types of
Damsel/Chromis/whatever else that would work well for this?
<<Do some looking/research re the Cardinal species available to
I hope you have the best week of your life!
Thanks for taking time to deal with my pathetic lack of
<<But improving all the time, yes?
Frogspawn ID and compatibility 4/3/12
I bought a frogspawn about 6 weeks ago. After QT it went into the
main tank. All was good (attached pic) then all of the sudden it
closed up and has not opened back up (attached pic). This has
been going on for about 2 weeks. All of my other corals are doing
well. I was advised that it could be the coral beauty picking on
it so I put it in the refugium hoping it could recover but to no
avail. Water parameters: Ammonia - 0, Nitrite - 0, Nitrate -0,
<Corals do benefit from the presence of low nitrate and
Calcium 420 (a little high, don't know why),
<How about magnesium, equally important.>
pH 8 in am, 8.3 in p.m., salinity 1.024. My question is could
this be coral warfare? The other inhabitants are: Pulsing Xenia
which was introduced into the tank about a week after the
frogspawn, 2 ricordae <Ricordea> mushrooms, and green star
polyps. I have a 55 gallon with a 30 gal refugium, 60 lbs of live
rock and run protein skimmer full time.
Should I put this guy in a hospital tank and see if it is the
other corals affecting it?
<Actually, the Frogspawn is the most aggressive coral amongst
your corals. The star polyps (Briareum) are rather peaceful while
the Ricordea is semi-aggressive. Have you actually witnessed the
Coral Beauty picking on the Frogspawn? My other concern would be
light. You made no mention of lighting and Frogspawn (Euphyllia
paradivisa) appreciate bright indirect lighting. Good water flow,
preferably wavemaker style, also encourages polyp extension.
Euphyllids are good indicators of water quality and failure to
open may indicate less than perfect water conditions. Good water
parameters are not necessarily indicative of good water quality.
If not already doing so, I suggest dosing with iodine/dide. Other
necessary elements such as strontium may be missing as well.
Weekly water changes will supplement these elements back into the
system. Do read here and related articles/FAQs found in the
Thank you once again!!!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Frogspawn ID and compatibility
I don't have a magnesium test kit but I've ordered one
online, should be here soon.
I do weekly water changes about 12 gallons a week.
I have a new AquaticLife Quad T5 running UV <UVL?> bulbs, 2
actinic and (2) 10,000k. I had located the frogspawn to a little
alcove if you will but it was getting a fair amount of water
<With your lighting you could place the Frogspawn most
anywhere. Actinics offer some benefit but you would be much
better off with three 10K lamps. I am assuming you are using the
UVL Aquasun or Actinic White lamps. Both of these lamps more
closely duplicate the wavelengths corals best respond to. See
I have 2 Koralia 750 and 2 Koralia 550. I did adjust the water
pumps thinking that might have been the problem and eventually I
did move the frogspawn to a different location in the tank (but
still in the sand) thinking that lighting could have been the
problem and it didn't seem to help at all.
I have not seen the coral beauty nipping at the frogspawn.
He's fairly well behaved when it comes to the corals. I do
put a drop of Lugol's iodine about every 2 weeks.
<I would do three drops every week.>
If it could be water conditions why are my other corals doing so
<Likely because Euphylliids are more sensitive to water
quality than most corals.>
Should I take this coral back to the LFS?
<May want to run some good quality carbon in the system first
and see if there is any improvement before returning the coral.
Which brand of salt are you using?
I have had good results using Tropic Marin. The new improved Red
Sea Salt is pretty good as well.>
Thank you again!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Frogspawn ID and compatibility 4/4/12
Hello again James!
Yes I am running the UVL Aquasun bulbs.
<That particular lamp closely matches the desired PUR
wavelength that corals respond best to.>
I will seriously consider getting a third Aquasun bulb. I'm
wanting to get more into corals so I want to be sure to have the
proper lighting first.
<May even consider four Aquasun lamps. Would be much better
and increase PAR value.>
I will increase the Lugol's. I do run activated carbon but I
will change it out. I've been using Instant
Ocean but I've been worried about the quality lately. I check
the pH about a day or so after mixing and it's only at 8.0.
My RO water is 7.7.
<I got away from that brand a couple of years ago. Too much
inconsistency in their mix.>
Also after I mix it there is like this brown foamy scum on the
<Wouldn't be from the salt. Do you clean the mixing
container good after use. May be dust getting in the container if
I've been researching changing the brand but I'm
concerned about conversion problems.
<Changing 10 gallons of water with a different brand salt
every week should cause no problems.
I've been through this a couple of times in the last five
I know I've seen an article on your website on how to change
over the salt mix. Thanks
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Frogspawn ID and compatibility 4/3/12
Hello Mr. Dog!
Really...4 Aquasun bulbs..cool!
<Would be your best option for a four lamp fixture.>
I've read lighting FAQs and everyone seems to run actinics.
But if the corals can live without them so can I.
<The actinic wavelength is present in these lamps. You
don't notice it as much because it is masked by the other
I'm assuming this will also increase the coral options as
well once I get this situation under control.
<It will increase your intensity in the PUR
I do wash out the container maybe every 2 or 3 months. The scum
doesn't show up until I mix in the salt and I only take off
the lid on the day I am doing a water change. The container I
keep the top off water in does not get this brown scum in it. So
which brand, Tropic Marin or Red Sea, do you recommend?
<I've been happy with Tropic Marin. It's a bit pricey
but you get what you pay for. It does contain every element found
in sea water.>
Thanks again, James!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Frogspawn ID and compatibility 4/4/12
Jeesh you are fast!
<Fastest gun east of Tucson.>
Awesome...4 Aquasun bulbs it is! I will start changing over to
Tropic Marin. Thank you for all of your advice!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Post RTN, Euphylliid myst. loss
Thank you for the help you have given me for my reef tank. I have been
keeping a log of everything that happens, water changes and how much is
changed, when things are added to qt tank and then to main, how often
and what things are eating, etc.
My water chemistry seems to stay the same.
Ammonia-0, Nitrite-0, Nitrate-.5, Phosphate-.05, Calcium-450,
pH-8.3. I had really nice growth, almost doubling in size, of my
Then I took a trip out of town. I was gone for three days. I had a
family member look after the tank. When I returned the Salinity was
I usually keep it at 1.026. I added water over the course of the day
and things seemed to be doing alright. One day later my Euphyllia
glabrescens was not expanded and looked almost flat. Within the next 16
hours it was completely gone.
It was so abrupt and quick (hence 'rapid'). I was just
wondering if the salinity change was the factor that killed it.
<Could have triggered...>
I had it for several months and hadn't done anything different. I
was planning on adding Euphyllia ancora but I don't want to be a
coral killer. I was dosing with Kent Zooplex frequently like every
other day. I also fed mashed fish to the tank's corals weekly.
<Mmm, there are better foods... see WWM re>
I also don't think it was allelopathy because I have had this mix
(All LPS, all but one Euphyllia the other Duncan polyp) together for
some time and I had just done a water change. Any ideas? Have a nice
<Thanks; can't tell from what is presented... I would have you
and the linked files above. Do you use iodide-ate? I would. Bob
Branching Hammer Coral Problem 1/27/12
Hello Wet Web
This question pertains to a Euphyllia parancora that I have had
for 5 years.
Purchased with 2 branches, the hammer coral lived 4 years in a 65
gallon reef tank. The hammer moved into a 150 gallon reef tank a
year ago and now has 20+ branches. I have had no major problems.
All corals are growing.
A few months ago, I noticed the tissue which grows on the stony
branches getting darker on one of the 2 original branches.
<I see this>
This darker tissue is spreading to cover up a few of the polyps
and is spreading down the live rock. Please look closing at photo
(photo on its side taken at night so you can see under polyps)
and note the brown tissue spreading down the rock and covering
the lower part of the coral. Is this the dreaded brown jelly
Yikes! If so, I should remove live rock it is now attached to
then remove the affected branches...
<I'd leave in place... check all parameters, dose
iodide-ate. IF the colony continues to disimprove, I would move
150 gallon reef tank
30 gallon sump
Aqua C skimmer
15 gallon refugium (plan on doubling size soon)
3 power heads
10% saltwater changes each week faithfully
81F stable temperature
1.025 specific gravity
440 calcium (working on this)
Alkalinity between 9-11 (working stability)
Euphyllia divisa (huge and directly above the paradivisa)
<Could be this is poisoning the E. parancora>
Red Legged Hermits (will these prey on snails for food?) <Can,
Blue Legged Hermits
Banggai Cardinal Pair
Red Sea Sail Fin Tang
Ocellaris Clownfish Pair
Brittle Star (very large, will this prey on dragonets?)
Thank you so much!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Branching Hammer Coral Problem-encrusting dark
Thank you for the advice. However, I just couldn't wait it
out...so I dismantled the whole tank to remove the afflicted live
rock and hammer coral. The live rock went into a bucket and I
drove to the LFS with the dark tissue encrusted hammer. I learned
that the dark tissue was not slimy (as I imagined brown jelly to
be), but sponge like. The dark tissue peeled off like the skin of
an orange and had no smell. It must be some sort of encrusting
<Mmm, maybe... do you have a microscope? Don't know how
much detail we'd expect to see>
I peeled, scrubbed with a toothbrush, discarded the dead branches
of the hammer, fragmented the good branches and soaked them in
Lugo. The newly fragmented hammer branches are relocated in a
high current area where I can retrieve and scrub if/when the
sponge returns. All the polyps are extended and look good.
<And you, BobF>
Frogspawn issues 7/7/11
I have successfully kept a healthy reef tank for 3 years.
It's a 30 gallon mixed reef tank. The predominant corals are
Torch, Frogspawn, Hammer, and Acan corals.
<You're to be congratulated; it is hard to keep
Euphylliids together in such small volumes>
Parameters are triple checked and spot-on, however, in recent
months I have seen some die-off of my LPS.
<The Acanthastrea I take it you're referring to>
My theory was that the introduction of a new pump and the
increased flow it provided damaged my Frogspawn. The end result
has been a slow-motion polyp bailout, taking place over several
months. one head after another, until the entire coral dies.
<Mmm, more likely a negative interaction w/ another stony
This bailout continues even today, as I just lost another head of
Frogspawn. As has been the case, the head is fully inflated but
just dangling off the skeleton by a thread.
On my other LPS, a wall hammer, I also am noticing a slight
receding of flesh, and it is not inflating as large as it once
In short, none of my LPS are inflated as they used to be, and I
am seeing slow-motion polyp bailout.
<Something environmentally awry here>
After reading on your wonderful site, I suspect something else
might be occurring. I do have a few colonies of Zoanthids, some
pest green polyps, a few mushrooms, and Ricordea. I wonder if
what I am really experiencing is coral allelopathy?
Especially since I have been trying to manually remove the
invasive green polyps with a pair of tweezers (a few polyps
culled every week or so.)
<This NEEDS to be done outside the system, the rock area
thoroughly washed, rinsed before being re-inserted in the
If coral allelopathy is indeed the case, I'd suspect I need
to remove the rocks with the offending soft corals, correct? Or,
could the attempted removal of the "pest" polyps be to
I do run carbon, replaced every two weeks, I run a GFO
<Why? The absence of nutrient could be the root cause here as
an Aqua C Remora Skimmer, and I do weekly water changes, and not
all LPS in the tank are hurting, which makes this even more
<Points more to allelopathy>
One last thing. I have noticed small, all white flatworms
gathering on some of my Ricordea. I wonder if they are doing
something odd to my LPS?
<Not likely; though there is a small potential here>
78.8 degrees F,
<I'd raise/keep in the 1.025-6 range>
Thanks again for your wonderful web site. I really appreciate
I'm at a total loss at this point as to what is causing
<Let's see your other mails. Bob Fenner>
Re: Frogspawn issues 7/7/11
I apologize for the second email. I neglected to mention the
large colony of Green Star Polyps that has begun growing
<Mmm, you did mention. BobF>
Re: Frogspawn issues 7/7/11
Here is a photo:
<Ahh, very nice!>
The two frogspawn on each side of the pest green polyps have had
<Well... if you had another system up and going, I might
remove the potential colonies one by one... see if this makes a
difference... AS all have lived together for such a long while, I
am discounting much of the mal-interaction... Perhaps some aspect
of your water quality has drifted...
I would ditch the GFO reactor unless you have a very compelling
reason for using it... Look into measuring RedOx, doing what you
can (simply) to improve this measure... See WWM re. Bob
Re: Frogspawn issues
Thank you for your reply. I am working to address your points.
One last thing I should mention; I have never actively fed the
Frogspawn or Hammer.
Could slow starvation also be a possibility?
<Mmm, yes... including a dearth of soluble phosphate from the
Bubble Coral Trouble 5/11/2011
Is my bubble coral dying or just really unhappy about
<Yikes! Looks very sad>
It has been deflated for the last week and the mouth looks like
it is open. I have had it over a year and never seen it in this
condition before. The skin is not receding but seems to sag.
Color is still pinkish. Nothing new has been added to the tank,
in the same spot for last year with same flow. Last water test
was fine but will do another tonight.
PH 8.2, Phos. 0, Ammonia, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, Calcium 400. Have
done two water changes in the last week. Any idea?
<... No other livestock similarly mal-affected? Does this
system have measurable HPO4? "Something" is off here.
Do you have another system to move this colony to? Please read
and the linked files above... for background, hopefully awakening
to your conscious what may be askew. Bob Fenner>
Torch Coral Polyp Issue
Thank you so much for providing this wonderful service! Your expertise,
time, and wisdom are greatly appreciated!
Just one question today. I have a 54 gallon corner reef which has been
up and running as a FO for 4 years and a reef for 1.5. Thanks to you, I
have found great success! Today's water parameters are:
Temp. 78 degrees F
pH 8.3 (p.m. reading)
Nitrate- reads as 0 although no doubt present in tank
<I hope so... an essential nutrient>
The issue that I've had is with a 12 headed torch coral which is
about the size of grapefruit when expanded. The colony was located at
the top of the tank, with about 12 inches between the top polyp and the
150watt 14,000K HQI bulb. The tank also has 2 24watt 10k T5's. It
was located here happily for about 10 months.
About one month ago, very suddenly, all polyps closed and remained this
way. No other corals seemed to have this problem. I deduced that one of
three things may be the issue:
1) Allelopathy. The tank has a somewhat large hammer coral, 2 somewhat
large (6-8") Candy Cane colonies, 2 Bubble corals, Xenia, as well
as various small Zoanthid and Yellow Colony fragments (not many
overall). In addition, a medium sized Finger Leather coral (Sinularia?)
as well as a Medium Toadstool Leather have been in the tank for about 8
months. The Torch was located about 10 inches from the Toadstool.
<Mmm, more than less of these organisms could be at play
2) Water motion. The tank only has a 400gph return pump as well as a
220gph maxi-jet with a Hydor Flo attachment but I have found that many
of the Euphyllias expand better with less current. The Toadstool had
gradually changed its body to capture much of the flow provided by the
powerhead, blocking the Torch to some degree.
<Could be an influence; less so than allelopathy>
3) HQI bulb change. I do believe that this was the contributing factor
in the problem. Upon the crew's advice, I swapped the 12 month old
14,000K for a Reeflux 10,000K bulb. This was about the same time that
the Torch closed up. I used the window screen method (3 layers down to
0) of light acclimation for about 6 days but the Torch would not open.
I have now placed it at the bottom where it has gradually regained
virtually all of it's polyp size. I have tried to re-place it back
in its original position twice now and in both cases it has reacted the
same, withdrawing its polyps. I have even shaded it with window screen
<Perhaps a factor... most likely triggering a chemical reaction by a
My question is, will it ever be possible to place the coral in it's
It seems quite happy where it is, although it receives substantially
less light. The hammer on the other hand, receives intense direct HQI
light. I have been supplementing with additional feedings. Why would
this coral, be so
touchy when other corals (even the Hammer) seem completely
<Some species are "match to match" generally winners... by
species, or dominant colony per the system>
Before, the Torch was the highest coral in the tank- now it is among
<Like human boxers, this happens>
<There are a few things you could do Joe... improve RedOx... through
Ozone use, spiffing up your skimmer, upping your use of activated
Best would be to remove the mal-affected colony to another system,
restore its health and re-acclimate per: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
Am going to post my "article vers." of the ppt.
"Reducing Negative Interactions Between Cnidarian Tankmates"
or such title today. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Unwell bubble 1/21/11
Hello one and all, from across that large expanse of water we
call The Pond. Yesterday I managed to negotiate the purchase of a
large(5" round) Physogora
lichtensteini for a fiver(£5) of a local retailer. This
coral would normally sell for about(£50-£60).
As you might have guessed it is not in the greatest of condition.
Probably 70% of the septa are showing,
<Do at times in the wild as well>
as yet with no algal covering, a lot of the exposed area a purple/red
colour (any info. on the reason for this would be welcome).
<I suspect BGA... bad>
The green tissue that is left is in either circular colonies around a
mouth, or in long strands again with a mouth. There is also tissue
lifting off the skeleton in two areas, where you can see a little white
colour on the underside. There is absolutely no sign of disease or
infection anywhere. Also having had a really good inspection can see no
critters on it having a nibble. I have it in isolation. My first
question is in its obviously unwell condition is it worth possibly
stressing it out further with a dip?
<It is in my opinion, experience well worth it>
Second question, the guy in the shop said it had been in there for as
long as he could remember, and also told me they don't target feed
any of their stock,
is it possible it is starving.
Next question, if you don't think its lack its lack of food, what
are the other possibilities.
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/EuphHlthF8.htm
and the linked files above>
Fourth question, whatever your prognosis, what's the best method to
attempt any rescue. And finally have I thrown my fiver away. Thanks in
advance of any reply. Paul Tinkler.
<Do write back w/ specific questions after you've read. Bob
Re: Unwell bubble 1/22/11
Hi Bob, thanks for the link. The retailer I bought this coral from had
all his frags in one large display, and colonies in another.
<Ahh, folks would do better/well to separate such bits by their
likely chemical/physical aggressiveness>
I know he had a large GSP colony in with the bubble because my son
asked me what it was. He may of had other soft corals in there too,
I tend to "switch off" when I see softies as I have no
interest in them. I'm thinking the demise of mine could be down to
being exposed to long term allelopathy and not getting sufficient food.
<Of a certainty, yes>
What to do with it is the priority, perhaps start with an iodine dip in
<I'd make/use one first outside the tank... slightly lowered spg
(a couple thousandths), a few teaspoons of simple (pent-, hex-ose) per
gallon, and a ten fold concentration of iodide-ate... AND add a double
dose of this last to the system>
Then all I think I can do is feed daily and keep the water quality spot
on. Do you agree?
Or is there more I can do?
<Not much else other than keeping the system stable,
Bearing in mind it probably only has 20-30% of its soft tissue left,
and as I have said the remaining tissue is in small colonies dotted
around the skeleton with decent sized gaps between them, what is your
short/long term prognosis?
<Can still recover, regenerate the lost tissue. Have seen many
Is it likely to survive? What do I do if it starts to get an algal
<Mmm, depends on cause... perhaps shade more>
If it does survive is it going to regain the exposed skeleton?
<Hopefully in time>
Sorry for all the questions. I will be much obliged for any answers.
Re: Unwell bubble 1/25/11
Hello again Bob, I have discovered whilst target feeding the coral
<Oh? Pray, do tell>
As I have said what tissue that is left is in "outcrops"
dotted around the skeleton running either along lines or whorls of
septa. What connects the septa is a very thin layer of what is probably
some sort of
calcium deposit, presumably what the connecting tissue sat on. This
layer is incredibly brittle. It can be cracked/broken with the end of a
wooden kebab stick. Found this out when trying to maneuver a piece of
food into one of the remaining mouths. Also when it is broken a large
bubble of gas will appear then float to the surface. Is this
<Yes... damaged tissue decomposition... gas-producing>
Sorry about the description, but do not know the correct
terminology/biology of the coral.
Again any answer would be welcome. Thank you Paul.
<Do use a "baster" (ala turkey) to "spritz"
ground up (small) suspended (in water) meaty foods during the daylight
(or tissue-expanded) time once a day on this coral...
Maybe -- 11/04/10
I don't have a picture yet and am not sure if I can get one. I just
bought a torch (Euphyllia) and there is something strange in middle of
the tentacles. It is bullet shaped, white, very thin, about 3/16th of
an inch wide and tall. When it opens a little spring like thing comes
out and in. That is best as I can describe it. Maybe an alien space
ship. Doesn't look like a living thing, looks more mechanical.
<<A barnacle perhaps'¦have a read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cirripediafaqs.htm
Re: Critter ID'¦Barnacle, Maybe -
Right on, it really is neat to watch but I think I will get rid of
<<Not likely necessary'¦ Harmless if not beneficial --
and not destined to survive long-term in home aquaria.
Unusual Frogspawn disease or parasite
I have 2 huge frogspawn corals in my tank for at about 2 years.
Recently both corals started doing poorly. I noticed a bunch of very
tiny "creatures" crawling near the mouth of most of the
coral's heads. So I
remove the corals and bathed them in "Revive" first, then
"Lugol's". I still see the tiny creatures walking around!
What should I do next?
<Mmm, you need to have a positive identification to at least the
phylum level... worm/flatworm, crustacean here, before
Should I use another chemical, if so which one?
<... depends on what this issue is caused by>
Also is there a fresh water dip for corals please? If so how, long
should I deep the corals in fresh water and how often please? Do you
think that would kill them?
I have never seen such "creatures" on any of my corals before
and they only like to live on the frogspawn, all the other corals such
as the hammerhead, sunny corals, colt, polyps, etc... are happy and
have no bugs crawling on them.
Thank you so much for your help.
<Well, you can use the search tool on WWM re... or just read through
and the linked files in the series (above). Bob Fenner>
Important Question On Hammers/Euphyllia Health
I have been having some big problems with my Hammer Corals, and I
need some help. The polyps will not expand.
I recently purchased 4 Ancora species.
The orange arrived in great health. It was beautiful. The polyps
ended up bailing out.
This happened with 2 of the other Ancora species. The orange
died. I bought another to replace it and the same thing
The polyps on a teal species I have are not expanding and are
very small appearing. I have included a picture of what is
happening. The orange one I recently purchased ended up getting
brown jelly infection. These are my parameters.
<Mmm, Euphyllia are good water monitors and can indicate less
than perfect water conditions. Nitrate levels 10 or
less are much more favorable for the health of this
<Where is the magnesium reading? Very important in allowing
corals to absorb available calcium.>
My tank is lit with 250 watt 14k phoenix bulbs. I wonder if I
need to dose Strontium? There was another trace element
you guys suggest, but I don't know what it is. Someone
spelled it as Moly.
I don't know what that could be.
<Molybdenum, and no documented proof exists on it's value
for any coral metabolic or calcification process. Would not be
concerned with this minor trace element.>
The tank is 210 total gallons. I change 30 gallons of water using
Reef Crystals every other week. Temp is 77. Thank
you for your time.
<One important factor you failed to mention. What other types
of corals are in your system. Euphyllia are very sensitive to
some types of soft corals, notably Sinularia (Leather corals).
Just like fish, there are compatibility/allelopathic issues with
May want to read here and related articles/FAQ's.
James (Salty Dog)>
Re Important Question On Hammers/Euphyllia Health
There are no leather corals in the aquarium. My tank is mostly
LPS, with some SPS, a clam and 4 Zoanthid colonies.
<The Zoanthids may be contributing to your problem, and quite
possibly your LPS corals which you did not provide names of.
The use of Chemipure or a high grade carbon will help reduce any
allelopathic toxins that may be present in the water.>
I thought the species name was Euphyillia ancora? It is
<Is just the common name for this particular specie, Anchor
I will get a measurement on magnesium. Last time I checked it was
in the proper range.
Could the nitrate be the problem?
<It can with these corals. Too much water flow may also
contribute, it can prevent good tissue expansion. Better to place
in an area of constant but gentle current. Without knowing your
tank depth, your two, 250 watt halides may be
a bit on the high side for these corals.>
I am having an issue lowering the nitrate in the system. My sand
bed is around 2 inches. Could this be the problem?
<You've already asked me that, yes, Euphyllia corals
require higher than normal water quality.>
I have about 4+ inches in one area for my Jawfish. I have read
that article already.
<May want to review it again.>
Please let me know what you think.
<Based on the information you have given me, I believe you
need to concentrate on improving water quality and lower your
nitrate level. You did not mention the use of a protein skimmer
and if you are not using one, I highly suggest you buy an
efficient model that is rated a little higher than your actual
tank volume. I would also ensure that your Zoanthid colonies are
not adjacent to the Euphyllia. Euphyllia corals are not that
difficult to keep provided required conditions are met, and if
not, they can be difficult to keep. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Important Question On Hammers/Euphyllia Health
8/31/10 - 9/3/10
I checked all my levels last night.
Magnesium seems to be a little low.
<Nah, 1250-1300 is fine.>
I will dose some today. My tank is a standard 180 AGA. I use an
H&S A150-F2001 protein skimmer. I am looking into getting an
SWC 250 1A cone with Askoll pump. Could my skimmer size be the
<I do not believe so. That skimmer is rated for tanks up to
The recommended flow through is 150-200gph. Are you supplying
that flow rate? And, do you routinely do maintenance/cleaning of
the skimmer. Allowing skimmate to build up on the walls of the
reaction chamber will greatly reduce a skimmer's
I talked with Kevin Pockell, not sure if you know who he is. He
has a reef store here. He told me the Hammers can tolerate 40 ppm
of nitrate. =/ I am not sure what to believe.
<Well Gina, unfortunately tolerate and healthy are not
synonyms. Though Euphyllia are quite hardy, less than perfect
water parameters/quality results in poor polyp expansion and tend
promote brown jelly infections.>
What I did not fully explain was my question on the sandbed. I
have about 2 inches of sand with about 4 inches in one spot for
my Jawfish. Could my sandbed be contributing to my nitrate
problem? I am running Matrix carbon in the sump.
I have relocated the hammers to their own section of the tank.
Kevin told me to shade them a bit. I run 3 250 watt phenoix
<Yes, three 250's would be on the intense side for
My flow is good I believe. Maybe it is too strong, but I am not
<As I mentioned previously, they seem to do better with a
gentle non-linear flow.>
I run a Super Reeflo Dart on a closed loop.
<Wow, that pump puts out around 4300gph...may be a bit too
much. If you have a ball/gate valve on the output, you may want
to experiment in cutting the flow down a bit, see if polyp
I utilize 3 Sea Swirls along with 3 other bulkheads utilizing loc
line. I have a Vortech located on the side of the aquarium
providing flow behind my rocks.
<Wow, in addition to the Reeflo Dart.>
My other LPS corals are 3 Trachyphyllia, 4 medium sized colonies
of Acans, 1 smaller sized Acan frag, Micromussa's, Montipora
caps, Digitata, ORA Red planet, Teal Acro frag, 4
<These corals can be surprisingly aggressive and sweeper
tentacles do occur.>
1 clam, 1 orange Fungia, and my Zoas. I hope this provides you
with a little more pertinent information. Please let me know what
<I'd experiment with cutting down water flow a bit and
relocate the Hammer Corals to an area of less light intensity or
shade them. It appears you have a love for corals and I'd
recommend getting Eric Borneman's book on corals, very good
reading and loads of photos. James (Salty Dog)>
Euphyllia Glabrescens Bleaching 8/11/10
I have a question about my Euphyllia. I have had it for about 3 weeks
now and sometime about a week and a half ago, it started bleaching. The
fading was barely noticeable at 1st, but after a few days it was clear
that something was wrong. In an attempt to identify what was wrong, I
was often told that I simply don't have enough light. I have about
100w of t5 for a shallow 110g tank,
<Mmm, need to use a PAR meter... measure at that depth/area>
which I know is not much, but I picked the Euphyllia, because I read
that it does not need very large amounts of light to do well in a
system and the fish store's Euphyllia looks healthy with less light
than I have at home. I have even tried supplementing an additional 100w
of light for a few days, but the bleaching continued.
<Could be other things...>
My water is a bit hot during hot days, reaching up to 86 degrees, but
none of the other life appear to react negatively to the temperatures,
and the temperatures are not for long periods of time. The salinity is
but I noticed that when the bleaching began, the salinity was at
<Too large a difference>
but I have slowly raised it and tried to maintain it at the 1.025
level, but for some reason the level seems to drop about .001 every 3
days with no water changes or Kalkwasser mix added.
<? I'd daily "top off" with just fresh...>
I have no salt in the house at the moment but more is on the way... the
salinity as at 1.023 now. The Ammonia/Nitrates
all read at almost 0, and calcium is around the 390 area according to
my API test kit.
I should also mention that I have been dripping in Kalkwasser for 2
nights now in an effort to try to revive it, but have not seen any
improvement in the Euphyllia (about a gallon each night into the
The Euphyllia rests on the bottom of the tank now (I tried moving it
there after noticing the problems, and received a med amount of
indirect water flow.) and it appears to be worse. For 4 days now it has
not really opened up and has stayed mainly closed. The tentacles along
the outside of the shell appear thin and sickly. There is no life in
the tank that really bothers or goes near the Euphyllia.
<What other Cnidarian life is present?>
I do my best to target-feed it everyday since it got sick. I don't
have a better method at this time, so I pretty
much crush the frozen Mysis, krill, or plankton above it, I don't
know if it is eating any of it tough :(. I am looking for any feedback
or suggestions on what I could do to try reviving my sick Euphyllia to
keep it happy and healthy, but more importantly, I'd like to know
what went wrong so that it does not happen again... is there anything
you can recommend for me to try?
I have a very hard time believing that it is my lights, and suspect
that it may be something else.
Please Help =[
<Help yourself, by reading here: http://wetwebmedia.com/carydisf7.htm
and the linked files above... Need to know tankmates, Mg conc., use of
I2... Bob Fenner>
Re: Euphyllia glabrescens Bleaching 8/11/10
Hello Bob and thank you for your reply,
I just wanted to quickly reply/vent as things are unfolding in my
This morning I woke up to see half of the Euphyllia covered in a very
light brown film. At this point I figured that either it was dead or I
have encountered brown jelly.
I used an eye-dropper to blow away the film in my main tank (a terrible
idea probably) and just like that I hollowed out half of the Euphyllia
shell as a mucus-like brown slime launched into the tank's water
and the fish began consuming it before I was even able to reach for my
tube to siphon it out.
Interestingly, similar brown excrement comes daily from my Ricordea
that I always thought was just waste (and by always I just mean for the
month that I had it). The Euphyllia started getting sick as soon as it
was placed on a rock in proximity, directly above the Ricordea and I am
starting to wonder if there is a relation there.
<Could well be... Corallimorpharians are potent chemical and
The Euphyllia shell is shaped like a figure-8 and currently the top
half is completely hollow. The bottom half still has a sickly looking
Euphyllia still there, but I'm fearing that it is on the way out. I
will read up on your suggested links to see what I can try out.
My other corals appear to be healthy at this time to my naked eye, but
I am concerned for their health. The worst part of it is, I didn't
keep any extra salt on hand and can't even perform a major water
change at this time (lesson learned). It is on its way.
To answer your other questions my tank consists of some Ricordea, Acan
<Zoanthids are near the apex of "winning-ness" amongst
Cnidarians... Please do read (at length) here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files in the series>
couple of clown gobies, a green spotted puffer, a school of 6 Chromis,
an anemone crab, and a full little Mandarin. I also have some 250
Nassarius snails that should come in today or tomorrow that I was
hoping to use to assist with cleaning some of the remaining
Cyanobacteria and other detritus that is left over from a period of
high phosphate levels due to me overfeeding the tank. The tank itself
is about 18" deep (48" long). I have not measured the
magnesium or PAR at this time unfortunately.
Thank you for your reading and for all of the great information you
post on this hobby. I will post if there are any other
<Thank you, BobF>
Frogspawn Pooping?/Euphyllia Health
I wanted to add two
photos of frogspawn doing what has been referred to on here as
"pooping". The event lasted about 16 hrs. They are
still not back to normal but at least they are looking better
than they were! All parameters are "normal".
<What is normal, helps us knowing actual parameters.>
Nothing out of balance and no additives. I did not see any pics
like these so hopefully they can be posted for others to see to
add to the knowledge base. I know my camera is not the
best...working on that.
<Appears to me that this coral is bailing out of it's
skeleton in response to poor water parameters or sudden changes
in lighting and/or water quality. These corals have been known to
"come back" with improved conditions. Bob may have
further input here. <<Nope>> Have a read here along
with the FAQ's/related articles found in the header.
James (Salty Dog)>