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FAQs about Caryophyllid Coral Pathogenic Disease
(Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)

Related Articles: Coral Pests and Disease; pests, predators, diseases and conditions by Sara Mavinkurve, Caryophyllid Corals, Elegance Coral

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As usual; prevention of introduction, stressors that weaken are key to preserving the health of your livestock.

Coral Question  11/17/05
Hello Crew, You have always been very helpful and kind in the past and I hope you might help me with this coral. I was separated from my tank for 4 days after having my tonsils taken out. My tank was left in the care of a friend who basically just fed the fish. When I returned, I noticed that one of my corals appeared to be in some trouble. I have attached a picture to show you exactly what is going on. I have had this coral for about 2 months and all the branches have been very full and healthy. 
The left branch shown by the arrow in the picture was almost completely gone when I returned, meaning he died out within 4 days. The branch on the right is also leaving very quickly. The only thing unusual I noticed was a little bit of cotton like substance on the completely dead branch. Any ideas would be greatly
Thank You
<Does read and look like something pathogenic. As time is of the essence here, I would go ahead and "frag" (basically, break off the healthy section/s and toss the declining, and if you have another up and going system, place the remaining part there... there is some value in a dip of iodine/ate and lowered spg... These are covered on WWM: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/carydisfaqs.htm and the linked files above.  Bob Fenner> 

Sick Euphylliid Coral 6/28/03 I have been having a problem with my frogspawn and torch corals.  About four months ago, for some reason, the polyps on my frogspawn and torch would draw in, and within 24 hours the polyp would be shredded and falling off of the skeleton.   <many possible reasons for this... could be pathogenic from adding non-quarantined organisms (Euphylliids are quite sensitive to bacterial infections> I did numerous water changes, with quality salt, and deionized water, and the problem went away. It is happening again.  All water parameters are great.   <which I cannot confirm or deny/help you... will take your word on it> I use a calcium reactor, and a deionized water for top off.  As for the species of corals in the tank, I have numerous species of hard and soft corals.  I use large amounts of carbon, in numerous bags, and change them out at alternating intervals. <the info provided is too general, alas to be of much help... no list of number/qty of corals, size of tank, husbandry schedule, detailed symptoms (mucus or know, sloughing, etc?).> I am wondering if the problem could be with the manner in which the deionizer is recharged.   <not likely at all... recharge then purge with a few gallons of water then all is fine to use. If there is any problem it is from improper preparation of DI water (no aeration or buffering for 24 hours prior to salting or use). Also have fear/concern that you are putting that Di is being used raw for top off (Yikes!)> I use lye for one cartridge and Muriatic acid for the other, as per the instructions.   <quite normal and appropriate> The unit is a Kent Deion 200r.  I run about 20 gallons of water through the units before putting any of the water into the aquarium.   <wow... way more than you need to make it safe... but fine> I have never felt right about putting water into my aquarium that has been exposed to such chemicals, in any way, but that's what Kent says to do. <a better understanding of chemistry would reassure you just how safe and easily neutralized these chemicals are... no worries> I am at a loss.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  My alternative is to not have any large polyp corals. <do read through our archive on wetwebmedia.com regarding quarantine protocol... if the problem is not water quality... I suspect a pathogen was brought in with a new fish, plant, algae, other coral, live rock, etc. Best regards, Anthony>

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