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FAQs on Goldfish Medications:
Anti-Fungals: Sulfa Drugs, MarOxy
FAQs on Goldfish
Medicines: Antibiotics
(e.g. Maracyn, Tetracycline), Anthelminthics (de-wormers), Salts, eSHa,
Copper Compounds, Formalin, Malachite Green, Mela & Pima(not)Fix, Metronidazole (Flagyl), All Others...
Related Articles: Goldfish
Systems, Goldfish Disease, Goldfish, Goldfish Varieties, Koi/Pond
Fish Disease, Livestock
Treatment System, Bloaty, Floaty Goldfish,
Gas Bubble
Disease/Emphysematosis, Pond Parasite Control
with DTHP, Hole in the Side
Disease/Furunculosis,
Related Goldfish Disease FAQs:
Environmental 1, Environmental 2, Environmental 3, Environmental 4, & Goldfish Disease 2, Goldfish Disease 3, Goldfish Disease 4, Goldfish Disease 6, Goldfish Disease 7,
Goldfish Disease
8, Goldfish Disease 9,
Goldfish Disease 10, Goldfish Disease 11, Goldfish Disease 12, Goldfish Disease 13, Goldfish Disease 14, Goldfish Disease 15, Goldfish Disease 16,
Goldfish Disease
17, Goldfish Disease 18,
Goldfish Disease 19, Goldfish Disease 20, Goldfish Disease 21, Goldfish
Disease 22, Goldfish Health 23, Goldfish Disease 24,
Goldfish Health 25, Goldfish Disease 26, Goldfish Disease 27, Goldfish Disease 28, Goldfish Disease 29, Goldfish Disease 30,
Goldfish Disease
31, Goldfish Disease 33,
Goldfish Disease 34, Goldfish Disease 35, Goldfish Health 36, Goldfish Health 37, Goldfish Health 38, Goldfish Disease 39
Goldfish Disease 40, Goldfish Disease 41, Goldfish Disease 42, Goldfish Disease 43, Goldfish Disease 44, Goldfish Disease 45, Goldfish Disease 46, Goldfish Disease 47, Goldfish Disease 48, Goldfish Disease 49, Goldfish Disease 50, Goldfish Disease 51, & Koi/Pondfish
Disease ,
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Goldfish Disease by "Types",
Causes:
Environmental 1, Environmental 2, Environmental 3, Environmental 4, Environmental 5, Environmental ,
(Absolutely the Biggest Category)
Floaty Bloaty Goldfish
Nutritional (Second Largest)
Genetic/Developmental
Eye Troubles
Lumps/Bumps/Growths (including
idiopathic tumors)
Behavioral/Social
Viral and Bacterial, Fungal
Infectious
Parasitic: (Ich, Protozoans,
Flukes, Worms, Crustacean/ Anchorworms/Lernaeids, ) Fish Lice (Argulus),
Goldfish Swim Bladder
Problems
Anomalous (Misc., Injuries, etc.)
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Accidental Death or Coincidence?
Aquarist-genic. Goldfish, env., nutr. dis. -- 02/19/09
Hey everyone, I hope all is great. I have a 29 gallon tank, with a
2" fan-tail goldfish, red wag platy, and 2-2" killifish.
<... not a compatible mix> All water parameters including ammonia
are at acceptable levels, temp is at a consistent 77 degrees F, <A
bit high for the Goldfish to be in constantly> filtration is superb,
and I syphon my gravel once weekly including a 25%-33% water change.
Nutrition is mini floating pellets complete formula, with occasional
flake food. <... need other food than dried> I have had my
livestock disease free for nearly 12 months, and I'm confused about
what happened to my fan-tail. My situation started 3 weeks ago when I
noticed my normally cheery fan-tail laying lethargically on the bottom.
I confined her to a hospital tank which was really a flat bottom
5"L x 7"W x 7"H live bearer trap that allowed 100%
normal circulation within the normal tank water. I did this to prevent
her from getting sucked on the filter inlet, and to help aid in the
long journeys up for air incase she was to weak to swim. <Good
thinking> Her swimming habits would be 80% on the bottom and 20%
normal swimming in the hospital tank. Within the last 2 weeks of her
life I noticed her floating at the top on her side breathing normal but
seemingly paralyzed at random times, and then minutes later would swim
normally again and go back to the bottom. I assumed this was a case of
swim bladder disease, and since there is no real treatment, I put in
fungus cure tablets into the tank <? For?> which had claimed to
also cure swim bladder disease. <? No. Where did you read, or hear
such nonsense?> I also stopped feeding for 3 days in case of
impaction or constipation, and then I would only feed her bite sized
peas as I heard this could be a remedy. <Good... but too late>
Nothing really changed until the last 2 days when I awoke to find her
laying on the bottom, but this time on her side, gasping for air, minor
case of PopEye, and curved like a bow. Still she managed to swim around
(cork-screwy now) and have an appetite. In the last hour before she
died, she was laying curled up on her side like a bow, and had a gasp
in her gill movements every 4 seconds. I tried on last time to revive
her and added a recommended dose of STRESS COAT. <?> Within 5
minutes later she had passed on. My questions are, did I kill her with
that STRESS COAT, or was it a coincidence? <The latter> And
lastly does this seem like a swim bladder case, or could it be
something else? <Can only guess... but likely environmental stress
(the temperature) coupled with nutritional deficiency...> I
didn't notice anything parasitic, and my other fish are perfectly
fine, and all disease free for nearly 12 months. Thanks again. Tim
<Agreed that the cause here is/was not pathogenic... But
iatrogenic... environmental, nutritional... I encourage you to study
the needs of the life you intend to keep... in advance of acquisition.
Bob Fenner>
Re: Accidental Death or Coincidence? Aquarist-genic. Goldfish, env.,
nutr. dis. 2/19/09 Bob, Thanks for the input. Very
appreciative. In regards to the "Fungus Cure" I used, Its a
JUNGLE LABS product which is a 1 dissolving tablet per 10 gallon
treatment which claims to cure cotton mouth, tail/fin rot, septicemia,
clamped fins, dropsy, PopEye, Furunculosis, eye cloud, and yes even
swim bladder disease printed right on the box( I'm not questioning
you, I'm just telling you what un-educated consumers like myself
are led to believe by a popular product). <Amazing... am surprised
they don't list Eczema and the Common Cold!> Although I thought
it was odd to claim to cure swim bladder disease, I tried it out of
desperation. On another note, this is a very common product in the USA
sold in most pet supply stores. <Yes... our trade (I am actually an
individual of long relationship in the industry as well as an earnest
consumer) is totally unregulated re such claims> Maybe it's
worth informing other mislead consumers like myself that this popular
Jungle Labs "Fungus Cure" is wrong to make such claims. <I
do agree> I also had my same livestock for nearly 3 years, 12 months
disease/illness free. If this goldfish death was due to environmental
circumstances, wouldn't it have died years ago? <Mmm, no... a
matter of degree... Goldfish, kept under ideal conditions can live for
twenty or so years... Most, kept in less ideal settings, persist for
days to weeks or more> Thanks Bob. Tim <Thank you for sharing
Tim. BobF>
Battling Ich and Septicemia Re: goldfish - using
antibiotic and antifungal simultaneously - 04/15/06 Dear
WetWebMedia Crew, I have two fish with severe Ick and also early stage
hemorrhagic septicemia (possibly due to reduced immune system caused by
the Ick) <Maybe, but more likely caused by too much organic matter
in the system>. I have bought an Ick treatment and also an anti
internal bacteria treatment. They are both from the same company
(Interpet) and no ingredient list is given with them. <Return or
throw away. Don't need or want them> It warns that the Ick
treatment contains formaldehyde and methanol (and I suspect Methylene
blue also due to the blue colour and staining warnings). No such
warnings are given with the antibiotic which is colourless. There is no
specific information in the booklet about whether these products are
compatible and Interpet appear not to have a website. Can you please
give me some advice on whether I should use these treatments can be
used together, and if not advise me on a course of action (i.e. which
problem to treat for first). Thank you very much, Lewis. <Lets treat
both at once. It would be helpful to know what species of fish we are
dealing with here, but the vast majority of FW fish can tolerate this
approach. You will need aquarium salt (and a scale to weigh out the
proper dose), heat, a few buckets and a gravel vac. Start with a big
50% water change using the gravel vac to get as much of the organic
matter out of the system as possible. Then measure out 76 grams of salt
per 10 gallons of water. Put the salt in a jar, fill with tank water
and shake to dissolve as much as possible. Pour the brine (only) into
the tank, then refill the jar with more tank water. Repeat over the
course of a day or two until all the salt has been added. Then crank up
the temp to around 86 degrees. Now comes the fun part. You will need to
do water changes daily, always with the gravel vac, replacing the water
with water salted to the same concentration. It's best to dissolve
the salt in the water before adding to the tank, therefore the need for
a few buckets. The heat will speed up the Ich lifecycle and clear your
fish in a few days. The salt will kill the parasites in their free
swimming stage and stop reinfection. The water changes will reduce the
organics in the system and allow the fish to fight off the septicemia.
I would not use an antibiotic. They tend to kill off the good bacteria
in the tank that control your water quality. If the septicemia does not
improve then the fish must be moved to a QT tank for treatment. You
should never treat in the main. A sick fish in bad water is not a good
thing. You can lower the temp a bit when the Ich clears the fish, but
keep the salt in the water for at least two weeks after the last spot
drops. You can reduce the water changes when you see the septicemia
improving. This approach is a sure fire way to remove Ich from your
system. Unless reintroduced you will never see a spot again. Keeping up
with water changes, always siphoning with a gravel vac, will greatly
reduce the chance of seeing the septicemia again. Good luck.
Don>
Koi Fungus Problem 9/11/05 We recently moved my
son's fish, a butterfly Koi and a comet goldfish, to a 20 gallon
tank after they'd outgrown their 10 gallon tank.
<Still way too small...> Soon after the move, I noticed both fish
appeared to have Ick, and the Koi had some small cottony tufts growing
on its tail. We've had these fish for several years now,
and they have grown from about 1 inch to about 6 inches and are very
beautiful. Both are eating and acting fairly
normal. The Koi seems a little nervous and more active than
usual. I researched what was growing on the Koi, and also asked the
owner of my local pet shop, where they specialize in aquarium fish,
what to use to treat the tank. She recommended Maracide for
the Ich and MarOxy for the fungus. <Good... safe and effective
choices> I've followed the directions on both bottles, but my
question is do I continue to treat with MarOxy for a full five
days? <Yes> Or do give the first treatment and wait
to see what happens, then treat if the problem doesn't clear
up. The instructions weren't clear stating that
treatment should continue for up to five days. I
don't want to inadvertently kill the fish by trying to cure
them. I also read that Maracyn should be used when treating
for fungus. Should I do this? <You could, will mix... but
not likely necessary.> These may be beginner questions, but our fish
have never really gotten ill before. Thanks, Vicki <The root/causes
of this apparent disease are environmental, not pathogenic... Bob
Fenner>
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