Pond information by Robert Fenner

Featured
Sponsor

Become a sponsor of the WetWebMedia website, click here

Homepage
Webs
Pond Articles/ FAQs
Freshwater Aquarium Articles/ FAQs
Planted Aquarium Articles/ FAQs
Brackish Systems Articles/ FAQs
Marine Aquarium Articles/ FAQs
Aquatics Business Articles/FAQs
Aquatic Science Articles/FAQs
Features:
Daily FAQs
FW Daily FAQs
SW Pix of the Day
FW Pix of the Day
Conscientious Aquarist Magazine
New On WWM
Links
Hobbyist Forum bb.WetWebMedia
Ask the WWM Crew a Question
Calendars

Search Feature

Admin Index
Cover Images

FAQs on Pondfish Disease Treatments

Related Articles: Koi/Pond Fish Disease, Livestock Treatment System Gas Bubble Disease/Emphysematosis, Pond Parasite Control with DTHPHole in the Side Disease/Furunculosis, Goldfish Disease,

Related FAQs: Pondfish Disease 1, Pondfish Disease 2, Pondfish Disease 3, Pondfish Disease 4, Pondfish Disease 5, Pondfish Disease 6, & FAQs on Pondfish Disease: Prevention, Diagnosis, Environmental, Nutrition, Genetics, Social, Pathogenic, Mysteries, oldfish Disease,

Tea "fixes", Mela-, Pima-... terrible

Know for sure what you're treating for before... Most medication treatments cause much more damage than doing nothing other than changing water.

Re: Koi hlth., bloated ghost wider than ever – 06/26/07
Dear Bob Fenner,
<Jules>
My large ghost that has been bloated for some time is larger than ever (full of fluid) In our last contact you suggested giving a 'shot' to it.
<Yes...>
I got in touch with the vets (in UK) and it would seem impossible to get hold of anti-biotics.
<Not impossible, but not easy either>
They passed me to a specialist vet who gave me telephone advice. The cost of getting a vet to administer anti biotics is ridiculous. Anyway, she seemed sure that it could not be bacterial as given the time scale (10 months) a fish could not live with that problem, and would in any case show other bacterial problems such as ulcers or reddening. She advised that nothing could be done for such a problem.
Do you agree?
<Mmm, no>
The fish seems fine, however if handled at all, even just netted and held still in water, it keels over in the pond, gasping and generally stressed for about a day, after which it's fine again. (hence, I don't do it!).
Will it die? Or shall I now finally stop worrying?
Julian (wet, depressing, generally miserable England)
<I would still "try" the antibiotic... the best would be Chloramphenicol (Chloromycetin succinate)... Do call around some of the more near by "Koi", "pond", aquatic garden clubs and ask some of their members who they deal with... Bob Fenner>

Emaciated Doitsu Sanke Koi   6/2/06
Hi WWM crew,
I've been trying to find information on treating a condition where juvenile Koi I have purchased seem to be slowly starving to death (Yes, I have actually tried feeding them, including soaking rich foods like brine shrimp in garlic to whet their appetite). There are no external lesions or lumps on the body but these young fish have a hunched over look as their abdomens shrink. They look emaciated and eventually grow listless and die. I haven't been able to find much information on treating them or even what is causing this. I found one pond disease FAQ that mentioned something similar in a much larger fish but gave no reason for the condition occurring in the first place.
I began treating my quarantine tank with Maracyn and Maracyn-Two as the other FAQ mentioned similar treatment anti-bacterial treatment as well as introducing some medicated pellets containing 1.0% Metronidazole (made by Jungle) although I doubt these will be consumed. Since this Koi had also contracted a few spots of ick I added some kosher salt and increased the temperature to 32C. The tank was filtered by a Fluval 104 but I have shut it down overnight to let the medications permeate the fish (will turn it on tomorrow for a few hours to cycle the water through it before the next medication dose) and am just circulating with an AquaClear 150 with no carbon and some BioMax.
I am trying to save this Sanke as it is a very attractive fish but I do not expect a good outcome. I have had to return a series of dead fish to the store for the exact same reasons. This fish is a replacement from another store location for a fish that died of the same ailment. I know the water quality of the display pond where the fish are kept is abysmal but I thought being introduced to a well maintained environment would counter any previous poor treatment.
Any information would be very much appreciated.
Regards, Patrick.
<Mmm... we might discuss the practical use of injectable Chloramphenicol (Chloromycetin succinate)... If this fish is very valuable... through a veterinarian's care... intramuscular. Please have your vet. contact me at WWM or at fennerrobert@hotmail.com
Bob Fenner>

Water temp, Pond Fish with Ick/Ich, UV lights   7/26/06
Hi,
I have a 2 year old pond about 1200 gallons with plants, waterfall and pressurized UV and bio pond filter.
<Okay>
I test the water daily and it is balanced and the water quality good. I have three large gold fish (6" to 8") and two small Koi.  2".
Recently the smallest of my large goldfish developed Ich.  I have a couple of questions:
I am concerned that frequent partial water changes and pond top-offs (every few days because I lose a lot of water through evaporation and waterfall "splash") are creating fluctuations in water temperature that stress the fish and make them susceptible to disease.  
<Possible>
Is there anything I should do about this?
<Yes... replace this water changed out and top offs very slowly... as in  drip... WITH placing a timer, other reminder on the door let's say, to help you recall that the hose pipe is running, needs to be shut off>
And I'm afraid that treating the fish for Ich and continuing this practice might be counter-productive.
<?>
Is the  Ich life cycle longer because I unavoidably keep lowering the water temperature w/these top-offs?
<Slightly more so>
  I'm in a rural area and  my water is very cold because it  comes from a (very clean)  underground well.    
What should I do?
<Perhaps drip the new water over the falls...>
Also, I have used AP Pond Cure Ick.  Just one app. so far.  No additional Ich spots, but the ones that were there still are.   Must  
I take the UV bulb from the filter for this treatment to be effective?
<A good idea if this cure is copper based... the UV will plate out the copper>
Is vacuuming the pond advisable?  
<If there is much "muck", this is a good idea>
Though the pond water tests really well,  I have a lot of silt-like stuff on bottom and that clings to the sides and gets stirred up when it rains.  Is this a breeding environment for the Ich parasite?
Thank you for your time and help.
--Judy
<Is possibly forestalling the cure here. Bob Fenner>

Koi very heavy  8/27/05
I have a Koi that looks like a pregnant horse.  Scales do not stick out like in dropsy.  Swims with the other fish, is active and eats.  I'm wondering if it can't spawn - is that possible?  Any suggestions on what to do.
<May be dropsical... or egg-bound... You can try adding Epsom Salt to a small-enough container at the dose of about a level teaspoon per ten gallons, and/or  drop some liver oil into the fish's mouth... Bob Fenner>

Re: Koi very heavy  8/30/05
Thanks for the quick reply.  I have a total of 6 Koi & 1 comet in a 750 gallon outdoor pond in the Willamette Valley in Oregon.  Is it okay to leave the "fat" Koi in the pond and add the Epsom salt to the pond or should I put the "fat" Koi in a smaller kiddie pool and add the salt to that?
<Can be treated in either place... better in a smaller, separate tank... Do keep it covered, aerated... monitor ammonia... Bob Fenner>

Koi with puffy white spots  - 2/4/2006
Hello,
<Hi there>
I am trying to treat a Koi in my pond.  It has puffy white spots on its tail fin.  I treated the pond with antifungal remedy for a week.   It contained Pimenta Racemosa 2.5%.
<... another "tea" mix...>
The fish is eating and behaving normally for the winter period.  The air temperatures are in the high 50's during the day and into the 30's at night.  The water temperature is cold.
<And hopefully not fluctuating much in the system>
  The fish are not as active as the summer, which is normal for past seasons.  
<Yes>
Can you recommend a treatment?  Thanks, JT from Santa Rosa, California
<Mmm, not w/o knowing what this is, the root cause. Best not to "fool" with ponds, their occupants during cold seasons (when water is consistently below 55 F.)... I would maybe... carefully add salt here... as proscribed on WWM... otherwise I'd wait, hope for a cure in the coming warmer weather. Bob Fenner>

Re: Koi with puffy white spots  02/12/06
The salt worked wonders.  Everything is back to being healthy.  We forgot that when you remove water to add back the salt.  Thank you so much.
Joanne Thomas
<Ah, good to read of your success. Bob Fenner>

Red Cap Oranda w/ SBD
Dr. Mr. Fenner-
I have a red cap Oranda in my outdoor pond and for the last two weeks he's been floating at the surface.
Through my internet investigations, I suspect swim bladder disease. I've tried feeding him frozen peas as I had seen suggested on several websites, but unfortunately he spits them back out almost immediately.
<...>
I am contemplating brining him indoors into a controlled environment to try to help him.
<A good idea... if the temperature of the respective waters is not too different (like five degrees F.>
Will this stress him unduly? What should I do about the abrupt temperature change? (Water temp outdoors 55º) What types of medicated foods will best help him with this problem? And finally, since he rests at the surface completely upside down, is his quality of life good? Would euthanasia be a better alternative?
<Look to the medicated foods for bacteria made by Tetra... and I Sera here... if you can find them... otherwise, please look over the piece on "Hole in the Side Disease" posted on the www.WetWebMedia.com site re how to make your own... and the possibility of injecting this specimen if need be.>
Thank you- Angie
<Bob Fenner>

Possible anchor worms and CopperSafe
First, I'd like to tell you that your site is fantastic, the best fish site I've come across, and I've looked at a few.
I think I'm having a problem with anchor worm. 
<Sometimes difficult to eradicate once established.>
I have three tanks-one 20 gallon with four (used to be six) very large ex-feeder goldfish which is always cloudy, yet the ammonia and nitrites/ates are nil and the pH is 6.5 or so. One tank is 55gallons with two big Koi, three channel cats (two big), and seven goldfish of varying size (two of which came from the 20 g tank). The other tank is 15 gallons with three very small fancy goldfish (the ones with the big bellies and the forked tail fin) and a Pleco which also came from the 20 g tank. Two days ago, I noticed a goldfish in the 55g had a bump on his skin with a white wormy thing sticking out.
<Does sound like a Lernaeid...>
Then I saw that a goldfish in the 20g tank had two red raised spots with white stuff on him (the scales were missing from the spots) and one with a veiltail has red near the ends of his tail fin. The Pleco in the 15g has had his fins clamped and won't eat very much, and I think I saw some white stuff on his mouth. He doesn't come out much, it's hard to see what's going on. These tanks are all well established and have the same water chem, i.e. no ammonia, no nitrates, and 6.5 or so pH. The water in the 55g is crystal clear, and a little bit cloudy in the 15g. They're well established, I do water changes every week, and I don't understand why they should all of a sudden all get sick. The transferred fish have been in their new tanks for at least 2 1/2 weeks. I started using CopperSafe, and it made all these little red worms come out in the 20g tank, and white worms in the other 2.
<The copper won't "get" the intermediate stages... you'll poison the fish stock before the treatment can be completed...>
No noticed improvement in the fishes' conditions. How long does this stuff take to work? What can I expect? Do I have to treat for secondary bacterial infection?
<Good questions. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/contrpdparasit.htm
You need to seek out a source of this pesticide, follow the directions that come with it, or the ones posted here>
I apologize for the length, but I really don't want my fish to die and you really seem to know what you're doing.
Thanks in advance.
Pati 
<No worries. Do contact me if this is unclear, incomplete. This is an easy problem to fix, given the active ingredient... and cautious use. Bob Fenner>

Goldfish/Comets .. white spot ?
hi
<Hello>
we have a very large pond (12,000l) with mixed pop of comets fantails, swords, catfish and mollies
<Any recently added?>
we recently lost one of our best and largest comets .. there were no visible signs and then we noticed two other comets who have a white spot on body .. when I did Google search I found that white spot  is indicated by lethargy, and by rubbing, and by swimming in 'front' of pond inlet ... which is exactly what  the one who died did ...
but these only have one spot on body the one we could catch it was a velvety type of fungal growth .. but they don't have spots all over like white spot should also spots are somewhat larger than the 'salt like' appearance mentioned for white spot and there is only the one
<Do you have any testing results recorded that you can share?>
so I was doing to treat pond with Condys crystals as indicated when doing Google search (www.koivet.com/html/articles/...)
the little comet is almost dead and I am worried about other affected large one .. although he is not showing any other signs  (and he won't let us catch him either!
so before I treat pond I wondered if there was another disease or parasite that this could be instead of white spot  ... and if so would treatment be the same
<Yes... there are other Protozoans (with about the same treatment regimen), and some "environmental" diseases that can express themselves as "pimples", hence the questions about when livestock was added, the history of your water quality.>
ps if I do treat pond, I was going to disconnect bio filter and just have the return for that pump running into pond
<What is this "Condy's" product? I would not discontinue the biofilter unless absolutely necessary... the beneficial microbes will die there if circulation is stopped>
giving oxidizing affect of Condy's, is there anything else I should do if I need to do this treatment
<Ask the folks selling, promoting this product... is this potassium permanganate and some sort of salt mix?>
can you let me know if you have any useful advise /info?
<Yes. Please see the Pond SubWeb on WetWebMedia.com under "Disease">
PS water tests perfectly for ammonia, nitrates, and Ph
<Mmm, need the actual values, history>
cheers
don card
<Bob Fenner>

Goldfish/Comets .. white spot ? take II
thanks for reply ...
please see additional info etc below
hi
<Hello>
we have a very large pond (12,000l) with mixed pop of comets fantails, swords, catfish and mollies .. and various rainbows
<Any recently added?>
>>> yes some (more) mollies and rainbows about two weeks ago ... all seem fine as fair as we can tell/see
<<Ahh, these were likely the source of your parasitic problem>>
we recently lost one of our best and largest comets .. there were no visible signs
and then we noticed two other comets who have a white spot on body .. when i did Google search i found that white spot  is indicated by lethargy, and by rubbing, and by swimming in 'front' of pond inlet ... which is exactly what  the one who died did ...
but these only have one spot on body the one we could catch it was a velvety type of fungal growth .. but they don't have spots all over like white spot should also spots are somewhat larger than the 'salt like' appearance mentioned for white spot and there is only the one
<Do you have any testing results recorded that you can share?>
>>> no
<<Rats!>>
so i was doing to treat pond with Condys crystals as indicated when doing Google search (www.koivet.com/html/articles/...)
the little comet is almost dead and i am worried about other affected large one .. although he is not showing any other signs  (and he won't let us catch him either!
so before i treat pond i wondered if there was another disease or parasite that this could be instead of white spot  ... and if so would treatment be the same
<Yes... there are other Protozoans (with about the same treatment regimen), and some "environmental" diseases that can express themselves as "pimples", hence the questions about when livestock was added, the history of your water quality.>
ps if i do treat pond, i was going to disconnect bio filter and just have the return for that pump running into pond
<What is this "Condy's" product?
>>> pot. perman. (generically known here as Condys crystals)
<<KMnO3... effective, but potentially dangerous... use with care>>
I would not discontinue the biofilter unless absolutely necessary... the beneficial microbes will die there if circulation is stopped>
giving oxidizing affect of Condy's, is there anything else i should do if i need to do this treatment
<Ask the folks selling, promoting this product... is this potassium permanganate and some sort of salt mix?>
>> as above
<<I reiterate: I would not turn off the flow of water to your biological filtration>>
can you let me know if you have any useful advise /info?
<Yes. Please see the Pond SubWeb on WetWebMedia.com under "Disease">
PS water tests perfectly for ammonia, nitrates, and Ph
<Mmm, need the actual values, history>
>>> nitrate  ~ 0
ammonia ~ 0
recently lowered Ph from around 7.6 to 7.2ish
<<Looks good>>
>>> apart from Ph at around 7.6, these values have been constant for a long time  ... there have been no major water changes for a month (although we got two inches of rain last night  :-))
<<As stated, you likely "inherited" a hyperinfection with the new (unquarantined) fishes>>
>>> have worked out if we use salt instead of Pot. Perman. would need about 55 k  to bring up to 3%  (which i guess we can get)  >> but it seems it might be a safer treatment than Pot Perman. ??
<<Maybe not... for your size system, multitude of ills this treats... just has to be carefully (dosage) administered... as the amount added is a function of dissolved, suspended organics... so the active ingredient will/can be "used up" w/o doing much good... or alternatively, if too much placed, can "burn" your livestock to death/disease>>
>>> what else could spot(s) be ?  ... it was very 'interesting' that one who died (who showed no spots but i gather that is possible with white as it might show only ion gills) exhibited the 'swimming in inlet' behavior ... which is/was unusual for our comets
>>> (can't find little one at moment so can't whether he's alive or dead .. and haven't seen other large comet with the one spot  .. after previous attempts to catch he is not visible/approachable)
<<Might be better/best to "take a look and see" approach here... the parasite might be "transient" in your set of circumstances, and be gone or latent (for now). Bob Fenner>>
cheers
don card
<Bob Fenner>

Wardley ick away
Hi,
I have a sick fish in my outdoor pond.  He has ick and very sick.  I went to Wal-Mart and bought Wardley Watercare Ick Away and put it in my outdoor pond.  Is it harmful to kids and domestic pets.
Thank you
Janet
<Mmm, time to send you to their website for their technical help. These formulations vary and most are relatively "safe" around pets, children (let's say, compared to many household cleaners). Check the product or packaging for their website or 800 number. Bob Fenner>

Swim bladder problems in golden Orfe 
Hello to you all, 
<Salutations> 
I am in England and have just discovered you on the web whilst searching for an answer to the problem of what can only be a swim bladder problem in a golden Orfe. 
I have a pond of approximately 2000 gals. in which I have Koi, grass carp, ghost carp, comet goldfish and, of course, golden Orfe. The total number of fish is 20 so the are definitely not overcrowded.  Yesterday, Sat. 13th. April, I noticed one of the golden Orfe, a fish about 10 inches long, was on the surface with its dorsal fin out of the water and it was having the greatest difficulty submerging. Twenty four hours later it shows no sign of improvement. I can only presume from its condition that it is a swim bladder problem.  As at this time of year in England the pond water temperature is still rather low the fish are not really feeding so I am unable to supply any oral treatment, if indeed there is any, at this time.  The pond has been treated with Acriflavine and a commercial tonic pond salt with a Ph buffer.  I would be grateful for any suggestions you may have and thank you in anticipation.  Kindest regards,  Ken. Drewitt. 
<I suggest the application of Epsom salt here (Magnesium Sulfate), at the rate of one pound per thousand gallons... I would not be concerned re the lack of feeding during this cooler weather. The root cause/s of this condition may not be nutritionally related, but I would look into a low protein (less than twenty percent by dry weight) prepared food source during cooler months. Bob Fenner>

Sick Koi & Comets
<Hi! Ananda here today while the usual Koi crew are out and about...>
I guess I have been lucky until now, I have a large pond (1600) gallons, this past week the fish all started acting strange, they seem to gulp for air, (not all the time) stay at the waterfall, some have a film
<I'm not quite sure what you mean by "a film"...>
and I have lost 5, the salt level was low, I have brought it up to .2%, the ph, is a little high but not in the alarming range,
<Any change of more than 0.2 per day can be stressful to fish.><<RMF says 0.1>>
the nitrates, ammonia are both ok, the water is on the hard side, well water. We recently put in a new filter system could this have stressed the fish? 
<Perhaps, if you also removed the old filter system at the same time, leaving the fish with no biological filtration, or something similar...?>
I also wonder if maybe the pond now is overcrowded as I have several large Koi and then smaller fish. I am at the end of the rope trying to figure things out. There are several pond owners in town that have problems and have lost fish this past week.
<In that case, a couple of things come to mind. Have you had a heat wave? A sudden increase in water temperature might lead to significantly lower oxygen levels. A sudden change could be especially problematic. Did several of these people do a water change shortly after the city added something different to the water, perhaps?>
We have had a lot or rain.
<What is the pH of the rain, compared to the pH of the pond? Is the difference enough to cause a pH swing in the pond?>
If you have any suggestions I would appreciate them.
Sarah
<Got a pond club or Koi club? If so, I'd get everyone who's lost fish, and several people who have not, to check their water parameters -- preferably with the same test kit (pond tour time) or at least using the same brand of kit. I'd compare those results with each other. I'd also look at any trends the various owners may have noticed in their water parameters. And I'd compare pond maintenance practices. I'd look for patterns in just about anything... it's detective work, but perhaps you'll find something. Wish I could be of more help. --Ananda> 

All my pond fish have open sores
Hello,
I have a 95 gallon in-ground pond that has been running for the second year.
All of my fish, seven 4" comets and one 7" calico goldfish have developed a severe case of open sores.
<This is very bad...>
  Reading some disease facts on your site, I believe they have Furunculosis.
<Me too... or some extreme environmental insult>
These are the same fish I had last year with no problems.  I have been told by my LFS to use Pond Melafix to treat the pond.
<Ehhh... what?>
After 4 days of usage I have not seen any improvement in the sores.  I am at a loss of what to do next.  My questions are if I should do any of the following: Should I continue this treatment, try some other med, do a large water change, add salt?
<Please review the article on Furunculosis... if all fishes are affected I would encourage you to commence a regimen of antibiotic laced food/s>
I would appreciate any help you could give me as the situation looks severe.
Background
Early this year, I added a bio filter to the existing bubbler pump to help filtration and a trickling flagstone rock waterfall.  The water has been clear, which I contribute to the filtering abilities of the thriving water hyacinth, lettuce, and a water Lily.  I have not been in the practice, however, of testing the water as I did not for the first year which was very successful.  The same has held true for this year except for the open sores in the fish.  I perform a 15 gallon water change about every month.
Feeding is once a day without overfeeding where the fish are always eager and active to eat.  Circulation and oxygenation is very adequate.  I have used the Micro Lift product two times, once in the early spring, and once about 1 month later.  Temperatures, as of first noticing the disease, have been low in the upper 50's to high in the mid 70s.
Thanks,
Glenn Koenig
<Do you have a sophisticated store where you might take some of your fish for their inspection? Are the sores emarginated? That is, do they have an obvious reddish zone about the openings? Bob Fenner>

Koi with fungus
I have a Koi fish who recently got a fungus infection (red spots) and I gave him a  fizz tab called fungus clear, and it almost completely cleared up, but not quite, so I changed 25% of the water and put in another one in 4 days. It  cleared up, but 4 days after I put it in, it came back, is it safe to give him a third dose? <It is probably safe to give him the third dose but what concerns me is why he keeps getting the fungus? Is he rubbing on something? Is something stressing him? What's the water quality like? You might want to try addressing these questions while doing his treatment and lets figure out what's going on to keep the fungus issues happening.  Good luck, MacL>
Thank you so much

Question about inside/outside pondfish disease
Hello and thank you in advance for answering my question.
<Hello, Gayle...Jorie here tonight - I'll try my best to help you!>
(1)  I had 10 fish in an outside tank until September 18th when I brought them in for the winter.  I used 50% of their water from outside tank and 50% new water.  Tank has 150 gallons in it.  It has aquarium salt added.  The water temperature was exactly the same when moved from outside tank to inside tank.
<What type of fish are we talking about? Just goldies or something else as well? How long have they been in their present tank set-up?  It's great that you used 50% "old" (and I am assuming it was old enough to have been a fully cycled tank) water, but I would still suggest you closely monitor ammonia, nitrite and nitrates for a while.  Have you have taken any measurements? If so, could you let me know what they were reading? And, definitely good that you matched the temperature...did you check to see if the pH was the same as well? Something else to consider...>
(2)  The 2 very large Comets became so stressed they were attacking the other fish.  They were removed.  2 Koi appeared to have serious Gill Disease and were removed.  Leaving 4 (6 inch) Koi and 2 (3 inch) Comets.
<Did you put these guys in a hospital tank somewhere? If so, how are they doing?>
(3)  They all had started flashing against the bottom of the tank after being in the house for a couple of days.
<Again, I would suggest you start with checking all the fundamental water parameters, such as the ones listed above.  Also, I should have asked you earlier what the "matched" temperature you refer to is at. Perhaps the fish were reacting to some sort of environmental stressor.  Or, perhaps they aren't used to their new surroundings...is the inside tank in a high-traffic area? Is there a big difference in decor between the outdoor and the indoor set-ups?>
(4)  I treated with  Jungle "Anti-Bacterial" fish food for 6 days.  They did not stop flashing but did for the first time ever start carrying their top, dorsal fins fully erect and seemed happier and not stressed any longer.
<OK...that sounds like you're heading in the right direction.  I'm curious if you ever saw any external parasites on the bodies, or in the gills of these guys.  Or, what about any white spots (ich)? Anything besides the flashing behavior you've described?>
(5)  Then I was told to treat with the Mardel "Copper Safe" for parasites and "Maracyn Two" for secondary bacterial infections.  Since the carbon filter was in use over 6 days, the instructions said it could be left in place.  I miscalculated and did not purchase enough of these two products so the recommended full dose was not used in the water. approx. 3/4 doses used.
And since at least one fish had pale, stringy feces, I was told to feed Jungle "PEPSO FOOD" for internal parasites as well.
<Yikes...this is a lot of medication to introduced all at once.  It is generally not a good idea to mix and match medications - I would bet that your fish aren't happy to have had all of these meds thrown into their tank at once.  Also, it becomes quite difficult to pinpoint what works and what doesn't work.  I would suggest you do several large water changes (again, make sure to match water parameters to rid their home of all the toxins that have likely built up.  It sounds to me as though the cause of the problems may have been environmental and could have been rectified by several large water changes - never underestimate the power of pristine water conditions!  And you should be aware that you've likely wiped out your bacterial population with all these meds, so your tank is going to have to re-cycle.  That calls for even more water changes, my friend!>
(6)  They ate the food Friday night and Saturday morning.  Then completely stopped eating and went into hiding.  They won't eat even their favorite foods and if they come out of hiding, they race madly once around the tank and go back into hiding.  They have not ate for 2 and 1/2 days.
<Check your water parameters.>
(7)  I did a partial water change and vacuumed the tank bottom really well.  I am worried they are going to die on me.  Please advise ASAP.  Thank you, Gayle
<When you say "partial water change", how many gallons are you talking about? In such a large system (150 gal.), you are going to need to replace a lot of water (over the course of several changes, not all at once of course) and I'm just trying to get a handle on how much you've already replaced.  In any event, I'd suggest doing at least a 40-50% water change ASAP.  Do take those readings before and after, though.  Give them a few days to settle down and re-assess.  If the flashing behavior continues after the environmental conditions have been rectified, then chances are you are dealing with some sort of gill parasites, but I wouldn't go there quite yet.  It sounds like you take very good care of these fish, Gayle, and I hope they pull through.  Keep me posted on how a big ol' water changes affects things, and we'll go from there.  Best of luck, Jorie.>

Fish in a Barrel
I have a 20 gallon whiskey barrel water garden with about six mosquito fish of various sizes, at least 2 mature females and 1 mature male. I added 2 small comet goldfish (less than 2 inches long), thinking that they would be compatible. I took the goldfish out of the barrel and placed in a glass jar today to check health and overall appearance.  To my surprise, ones tailfin is almost gone, and the other (longer flowing tail) is torn and gone in places. First I thought it was fin rot, but on closer inspection there is no white edge or fungus growing on the fins. Are mosquito fish capable of this damage, or could it be the cooler water temperature of 63 degrees stressing the fish and causing fin rot? I live in San Diego, but the barrel is deeper than it is wide, and the water doesn't get a lot of direct sunlight to warm it.  Help I don't want to torture these goldfish.
<Hi, Don here. The temp is a little low, but goldfish can handle even cooler without problems. They do produce large amounts of waste. If you are not already doing so I would suggest trying a few large water changes. About 30 to 50%, siphoned from the bottom. Daily for a few days, weekly after that. A test kit for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate would confirm this as the problem. do not forget to match temp and dechlorinate. A little salt would help the fins heal without getting fungus>    

Koi in tank, in trouble
Hello,
    It all started when my friend Sara came over. She began to torment my Koi and he hasn't been the same since. Next thing you know he isn't eating for days. So I began to get worried and looked around online for what could be wrong with him. It stated that stress or poor water conditions could have caused him to not eat and get red spots...which he has a few of now. So I changed the water and a few days later I thought to change the filter because I thought it may have become contaminated by the bad water. I figured the water might have gone bad due to the food sitting at the bottom for too long. So he is still not eating and I'm worried because I cant bear the thought of losing him. So if he hasn't eaten by Tuesday I was thinking about putting him in  a bigger tank with fresh water once again. I just wanted to know what you thought could be causing him to eat and if what I planned on doing was a good idea. Please help me because I'm stressed every day he is. thank you and I would appreciate it if you could write me back at XXXX@comcast.net.
- Christine
<Hello Christine,  First off I would change 50% of the water in the tank.  Your filters need to be maintained on a weekly basis.  Always remember, even though the waste is in the filter, it is still in the system and needs to be removed.  James (Salty Dog)>

Red Patch on Shubunkin
Dear Crew,
I have a small outside pond (approximately 60 gallons). My two comets and shubunkin have been doing well for the last four years until about one month ago when a heater I put in the pond broke sending an electric current through the pond. The two comets recovered fully, but the shubunkin seems to have a damaged swim bladder. He is unable to hold himself upright when still. However, he can right himself and swim, but once stopped he slides to his side.
<<Ok.>>
He has shone such a desire to live that I have been hand feeding him.
<<Goldfishes/Koi learn this trick well, too.>>
Lately, he has shone a lot of strength and seems to be adjusting to his disability. Within the last few days though, I noticed an angry-looking red patch on the side which he lays on. His tail fin is ragged-looking and somewhat reddish. I'm afraid I caused the fin damage when I started handling him in the pond.
<<Yes, and there's also a good chance of Furunculosis this time of year. Do Google, the web and our site, on diseases of goldfish, Furunculosis.>>
I am now very careful to not hold or guide him by his fins.
<<Good.>>
Two days ago, I have started treating the pond with Melafix, but in reviewing the WWM site, the benefits of Melafix are both praised and discredited, depending on the WWM crew member responding.
<<Yes, and you'll find me, Marina, agreeing with Bob on the general assessment of this alleged panacea. I'd rather go with salt (literally) than rely on this derivative of the Melaleuca tree for anything, including relieving dandruff.>>
Also, he seems to have trouble eating as he often spits out the flakes I feed him.
<<I've seen lots of goldfish do this, but if it's not normal for him, I'd go with feeding a slow-sinking pellet, some live, and more vegetable matter. Follow those links via the goldfish web.>>
Can you advise me? Thank you,
Kelly
<<Please do look up as suggested via our Google bar and the web. We have posted a good deal on these subjects.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshdisease.htm 
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshfdgfaqs.htm Good luck with keeping this pet going, sounds like overall he's doing pretty well. I think due your diligent care s/he could live to its fullest span. Marina >> 

Red Patch on Shubunkin - Doing Better!
Dear Marina,
Thank you for your reply.
<<You're very welcome Kelly.>>
My shubunkin, "Blue," seems to be doing better - the redness in his fins and the patch on his body seems to be fading.
<<Ah, excellent!  I was worried it might be the onset of Furunculosis.>>
Again, thanks. Kelly
<<Do keep an eye on him, just to be safe (I'm sure you already do), you may want to have some medications and salt already on hand.  A "Fishy First Aid" kit is good to have in any event.  Marina>>

 

Featured Sponsors:

 

Google
 
Web www.WetWebMedia.com

Amazon Honor System Click Here to Pay Learn More