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FAQs on Pondfish Disease Treatments
Related Articles: Koi/Pond Fish Disease,
Livestock
Treatment System, Gas
Bubble Disease/Emphysematosis, Pond Parasite
Control with DTHP, Hole in the Side Disease/Furunculosis,
Goldfish Disease,
Related FAQs: Pondfish Disease 1,
Pondfish Disease 2,
Pondfish
Disease 3, Pondfish Disease 4,
Pondfish Disease 5,
Pondfish Disease 6, & FAQs on Pondfish Disease:
Prevention, Diagnosis,
Environmental, Nutrition,
Genetics, Social,
Pathogenic, Mysteries,
oldfish
Disease, |
Tea "fixes", Mela-, Pima-... terrible
Know for sure what you're treating for before... Most medication
treatments cause much more damage than doing nothing other than changing water.
|
Re: Koi hlth., bloated ghost wider than ever
– 06/26/07
Dear Bob Fenner,
<Jules>
My large ghost that has been bloated for some time is larger than ever (full of
fluid) In our last contact you suggested giving a 'shot' to it.
<Yes...>
I got in touch with the vets (in UK) and it would seem impossible to get hold of
anti-biotics.
<Not impossible, but not easy either>
They passed me to a specialist vet who gave me telephone advice. The cost of
getting a vet to administer anti biotics is ridiculous. Anyway, she seemed sure
that it could not be bacterial as given the time scale (10 months) a fish could
not live with that problem, and would in any case show other bacterial problems
such as ulcers or reddening. She advised that nothing could be done for such a
problem.
Do you agree?
<Mmm, no>
The fish seems fine, however if handled at all, even just netted and held still
in water, it keels over in the pond, gasping and generally stressed for about a
day, after which it's fine again. (hence, I don't do it!).
Will it die? Or shall I now finally stop worrying?
Julian (wet, depressing, generally miserable England)
<I would still "try" the antibiotic... the best would be Chloramphenicol
(Chloromycetin succinate)... Do call around some of the more near by "Koi",
"pond", aquatic garden clubs and ask some of their members who they deal with...
Bob Fenner>
Emaciated Doitsu Sanke Koi 6/2/06
Hi WWM crew,
I've been trying to find information on treating a condition where juvenile Koi
I have purchased seem to be slowly starving to death (Yes, I have actually tried
feeding them, including soaking rich foods like brine shrimp in garlic to whet
their appetite). There are no external lesions or lumps on the body but these
young fish have a hunched over look as their abdomens shrink. They look
emaciated and eventually grow listless and die. I haven't been able to find much
information on treating them or even what is causing this. I found one pond
disease FAQ that mentioned something similar in a much larger fish but gave no
reason for the condition occurring in the first place.
I began treating my quarantine tank with Maracyn and Maracyn-Two as the other
FAQ mentioned similar treatment anti-bacterial treatment as well as introducing
some medicated pellets containing 1.0% Metronidazole (made by Jungle) although I
doubt these will be consumed. Since this Koi had also contracted a few spots of
ick I added some kosher salt and increased the temperature to 32C. The tank was
filtered by a Fluval 104 but I have shut it down overnight to let the
medications permeate the fish (will turn it on tomorrow for a few hours to cycle
the water through it before the next medication dose) and am just circulating
with an AquaClear 150 with no carbon and some BioMax.
I am trying to save this Sanke as it is a very attractive fish but I do not
expect a good outcome. I have had to return a series of dead fish to the store
for the exact same reasons. This fish is a replacement from another store
location for a fish that died of the same ailment. I know the water quality of
the display pond where the fish are kept is abysmal but I thought being
introduced to a well maintained environment would counter any previous poor
treatment.
Any information would be very much appreciated.
Regards, Patrick.
<Mmm... we might discuss the practical use of injectable Chloramphenicol
(Chloromycetin succinate)... If this fish is very valuable... through a
veterinarian's care... intramuscular. Please have your vet. contact me at WWM or
at fennerrobert@hotmail.com
Bob Fenner>
Water temp, Pond Fish with Ick/Ich, UV lights 7/26/06
Hi,
I have a 2 year old pond about 1200 gallons with plants, waterfall and
pressurized UV and bio pond filter.
<Okay>
I test the water daily and it is balanced and the water quality good. I have
three large gold fish (6" to 8") and two small Koi. 2".
Recently the smallest of my large goldfish developed Ich. I have a couple of
questions:
I am concerned that frequent partial water changes and pond top-offs (every few
days because I lose a lot of water through evaporation and waterfall "splash")
are creating fluctuations in water temperature that stress the fish and make
them susceptible to disease.
<Possible>
Is there anything I should do about this?
<Yes... replace this water changed out and top offs very slowly... as
in drip... WITH placing a timer, other reminder on the door let's say, to help
you recall that the hose pipe is running, needs to be shut off>
And I'm afraid that treating the fish for Ich and continuing this practice might
be counter-productive.
<?>
Is the Ich life cycle longer because I unavoidably keep lowering the
water temperature w/these top-offs?
<Slightly more so>
I'm in a rural area and my water is very cold because it comes from a (very
clean) underground well.
What should I do?
<Perhaps drip the new water over the falls...>
Also, I have used AP Pond Cure Ick. Just one app. so far. No additional Ich
spots, but the ones that were there still are. Must
I take the UV bulb from the filter for this treatment to be effective?
<A good idea if this cure is copper based... the UV will plate out the copper>
Is vacuuming the pond advisable?
<If there is much "muck", this is a good idea>
Though the pond water tests really well, I have a lot of silt-like stuff on
bottom and that clings to the sides and gets stirred up when it rains. Is this
a breeding environment for the Ich parasite?
Thank you for your time and help.
--Judy
<Is possibly forestalling the cure here. Bob Fenner>
Koi very heavy 8/27/05
I have a Koi that looks like a pregnant horse. Scales do not stick out
like in dropsy. Swims with the other fish, is active and eats. I'm
wondering if it can't spawn - is that possible? Any suggestions on what
to do.
<May be dropsical... or egg-bound... You can try adding Epsom Salt to a
small-enough container at the dose of about a level teaspoon per ten gallons,
and/or drop some liver oil into the fish's mouth... Bob Fenner>
Re: Koi very heavy 8/30/05
Thanks for the quick reply. I have a total of 6 Koi & 1 comet in a 750
gallon outdoor pond in the Willamette Valley in Oregon. Is it okay to
leave the "fat" Koi in the pond and add the Epsom salt to the pond or
should I put the "fat" Koi in a smaller kiddie pool and add the salt to
that?
<Can be treated in either place... better in a smaller, separate tank... Do keep
it covered, aerated... monitor ammonia... Bob Fenner>
Koi with puffy white spots - 2/4/2006
Hello,
<Hi there>
I am trying to treat a Koi in my pond. It has puffy white spots on its
tail fin. I treated the pond with antifungal remedy for a week. It contained
Pimenta Racemosa 2.5%.
<... another "tea" mix...>
The fish is eating and behaving normally for the winter period. The air
temperatures are in the high
50's during the day and into the 30's at night. The water temperature is cold.
<And hopefully not fluctuating much in the system>
The fish are not as active as the summer, which is normal for past seasons.
<Yes>
Can you recommend a treatment? Thanks, JT from Santa Rosa, California
<Mmm, not w/o knowing what this is, the root cause. Best not to "fool" with
ponds, their occupants during cold seasons (when water is consistently below 55
F.)... I would maybe... carefully add salt here... as proscribed on WWM...
otherwise I'd wait, hope for a cure in the coming warmer weather. Bob Fenner>
Re: Koi with puffy white spots 02/12/06
The salt worked wonders. Everything is back to being healthy. We forgot
that when you remove water to add back the salt. Thank you so much.
Joanne Thomas
<Ah, good to read of your success. Bob Fenner>
Red Cap Oranda w/ SBD
Dr. Mr. Fenner-
I have a red cap Oranda in my outdoor pond and for the
last two weeks he's been floating at the surface.
Through my internet investigations, I suspect swim
bladder disease. I've tried feeding him frozen peas as
I had seen suggested on several websites, but
unfortunately he spits them back out almost
immediately.
<...>
I am contemplating brining him indoors into a
controlled environment to try to help him.
<A good idea... if the temperature of the respective waters is not too different (like five degrees F.>
Will this stress him unduly? What should I do about
the abrupt temperature change? (Water temp outdoors
55º) What types of medicated foods will best help him
with this problem? And finally, since he rests at the
surface completely upside down, is his quality of life
good? Would euthanasia be a better alternative?
<Look to the medicated foods for bacteria made by Tetra... and I Sera here... if you can find them... otherwise, please look over the piece on "Hole in the Side Disease" posted on the www.WetWebMedia.com site re how to make your own... and the possibility of injecting this specimen if need be.>
Thank you- Angie
<Bob Fenner>
Possible anchor worms and CopperSafe
First, I'd like to tell you that your site is fantastic, the best fish site I've come across, and I've looked at a few.
I think I'm having a problem with anchor worm.
<Sometimes difficult to eradicate once established.>
I have three tanks-one 20 gallon with four (used to be six) very large ex-feeder goldfish which is always cloudy, yet the ammonia and nitrites/ates are nil and the pH is 6.5 or so. One tank is 55gallons with two big
Koi, three channel cats (two big), and seven goldfish of varying size (two of which came from the 20 g tank). The other tank is 15 gallons with three very small fancy goldfish (the ones with the big bellies and the forked tail fin) and a
Pleco which also came from the 20 g tank. Two days ago, I noticed a goldfish in the 55g had a bump on his skin with a white wormy thing sticking out.
<Does sound like a Lernaeid...>
Then I saw that a goldfish in the 20g tank had two red raised spots with white stuff on him (the scales were missing from the spots) and one with a veiltail has red near the ends of his tail fin. The
Pleco in the 15g has had his fins clamped and won't eat very much, and I think I saw some white stuff on his mouth. He doesn't come out much, it's hard to see what's going on. These tanks are all well established and have the same water chem,
i.e. no ammonia, no nitrates, and 6.5 or so pH. The water in the 55g is crystal clear, and a little bit cloudy in the 15g. They're well established, I do water changes every week, and I don't understand why they should all of a sudden all get sick. The
transferred fish have been in their new tanks for at least 2 1/2 weeks. I started using CopperSafe, and it made all these little red worms come out in the 20g tank, and white worms in the other 2.
<The copper won't "get" the intermediate stages... you'll poison the fish stock before the treatment can be completed...>
No noticed improvement in the fishes' conditions. How long does this stuff take to work? What can I expect? Do I have to treat for secondary bacterial infection?
<Good questions. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/contrpdparasit.htm
You need to seek out a source of this pesticide, follow the directions that come with it, or the ones posted here>
I apologize for the length, but I really don't want my fish to die and you really seem to know what you're doing.
Thanks in advance.
Pati
<No worries. Do contact me if this is unclear, incomplete. This is an easy problem to fix, given the active ingredient... and cautious use. Bob Fenner>
|
Goldfish/Comets .. white spot ?
hi
<Hello>
we have a very large pond (12,000l) with mixed pop of comets fantails, swords,
catfish and mollies
<Any recently added?>
we recently lost one of our best and largest comets .. there were no visible
signs
and then we noticed two other comets who have a white spot on body .. when I did
Google search I found that white spot is indicated by lethargy, and
by rubbing, and by swimming in 'front' of pond inlet ... which is exactly what the
one who died did ...
but these only have one spot on body the one we could catch it was a velvety
type of fungal growth .. but they don't have spots all over like white spot
should also spots are somewhat larger than the 'salt like' appearance mentioned
for white spot and there is only the one
<Do you have any testing results recorded that you can share?>
so I was doing to treat pond with Condys crystals as indicated when doing Google
search (www.koivet.com/html/articles/...)
the little comet is almost dead and I am worried about other affected large one
.. although he is not showing any other signs (and he won't let us
catch him either!
so before I treat pond I wondered if there was another disease or parasite that
this could be instead of white spot ... and if so would treatment be
the same
<Yes... there are other Protozoans (with about the same treatment regimen),
and some "environmental" diseases that can express themselves as
"pimples", hence the questions about when livestock was added, the
history of your water quality.>
ps if I do treat pond, I was going to disconnect bio filter and just have the
return for that pump running into pond
<What is this "Condy's" product? I would not discontinue the
biofilter unless absolutely necessary... the beneficial microbes will die there
if circulation is stopped>
giving oxidizing affect of Condy's, is there anything else I should do if I need
to do this treatment
<Ask the folks selling, promoting this product... is this potassium
permanganate and some sort of salt mix?>
can you let me know if you have any useful advise /info?
<Yes. Please see the Pond SubWeb on WetWebMedia.com under
"Disease">
PS water tests perfectly for ammonia, nitrates, and Ph
<Mmm, need the actual values, history>
cheers
don card
<Bob Fenner>
Goldfish/Comets .. white spot ? take II
thanks for reply ...
please see additional info etc below
hi
<Hello>
we have a very large pond (12,000l) with mixed pop of comets fantails, swords,
catfish and mollies .. and various rainbows
<Any recently added?>
>>> yes some (more) mollies and rainbows about two weeks ago ... all
seem fine as fair as we can tell/see
<<Ahh, these were likely the source of your parasitic problem>>
we recently lost one of our best and largest comets .. there were no visible
signs
and then we noticed two other comets who have a white spot on body .. when i did
Google search i found that white spot is indicated by lethargy, and
by rubbing, and by swimming in 'front' of pond inlet ... which is exactly what the
one who died did ...
but these only have one spot on body the one we could catch it was a velvety
type of fungal growth .. but they don't have spots all over like white spot
should also spots are somewhat larger than the 'salt like' appearance mentioned
for white spot and there is only the one
<Do you have any testing results recorded that you can share?>
>>> no
<<Rats!>>
so i was doing to treat pond with Condys crystals as indicated when doing Google
search (www.koivet.com/html/articles/...)
the little comet is almost dead and i am worried about other affected large one
.. although he is not showing any other signs (and he won't let us
catch him either!
so before i treat pond i wondered if there was another disease or parasite that
this could be instead of white spot ... and if so would treatment be
the same
<Yes... there are other Protozoans (with about the same treatment regimen),
and some "environmental" diseases that can express themselves as
"pimples", hence the questions about when livestock was added, the
history of your water quality.>
ps if i do treat pond, i was going to disconnect bio filter and just have the
return for that pump running into pond
<What is this "Condy's" product?
>>> pot. perman. (generically known here as Condys crystals)
<<KMnO3... effective, but potentially dangerous... use with care>>
I would not discontinue the biofilter unless absolutely necessary... the
beneficial microbes will die there if circulation is stopped>
giving oxidizing affect of Condy's, is there anything else i should do if i need
to do this treatment
<Ask the folks selling, promoting this product... is this potassium
permanganate and some sort of salt mix?>
>> as above
<<I reiterate: I would not turn off the flow of water to your biological
filtration>>
can you let me know if you have any useful advise /info?
<Yes. Please see the Pond SubWeb on WetWebMedia.com under
"Disease">
PS water tests perfectly for ammonia, nitrates, and Ph
<Mmm, need the actual values, history>
>>> nitrate ~ 0
ammonia ~ 0
recently lowered Ph from around 7.6 to 7.2ish
<<Looks good>>
>>> apart from Ph at around 7.6, these values have been constant for a
long time ... there have been no major water changes for a month
(although we got two inches of rain last night :-))
<<As stated, you likely "inherited" a hyperinfection with the
new (unquarantined) fishes>>
>>> have worked out if we use salt instead of Pot. Perman. would need
about 55 k to bring up to 3% (which i guess we can get) >>
but it seems it might be a safer treatment than Pot Perman. ??
<<Maybe not... for your size system, multitude of ills this treats... just
has to be carefully (dosage) administered... as the amount added is a function
of dissolved, suspended organics... so the active ingredient will/can be
"used up" w/o doing much good... or alternatively, if too much placed,
can "burn" your livestock to death/disease>>
>>> what else could spot(s) be ? ... it was very
'interesting' that one who died (who showed no spots but i gather that is
possible with white as it might show only ion gills) exhibited the 'swimming in
inlet' behavior ... which is/was unusual for our comets
>>> (can't find little one at moment so can't whether he's alive or
dead .. and haven't seen other large comet with the one spot .. after
previous attempts to catch he is not visible/approachable)
<<Might be better/best to "take a look and see" approach here...
the parasite might be "transient" in your set of circumstances, and be
gone or latent (for now). Bob Fenner>>
cheers
don card
<Bob Fenner>
|
Wardley ick away
Hi,
I have a sick fish in my outdoor pond. He has ick and very
sick. I went to Wal-Mart and bought Wardley Watercare Ick Away and
put it in my outdoor pond. Is it harmful to kids and domestic pets.
Thank you
Janet
<Mmm, time to send you to their website for their technical help. These
formulations vary and most are relatively "safe" around pets, children
(let's say, compared to many household cleaners). Check the product or packaging
for their website or 800 number. Bob Fenner>
Swim bladder problems in golden Orfe
Hello to you all,
<Salutations>
I am in England and have just discovered you on the web whilst searching for an answer to the problem of what can only be a swim bladder problem in a golden
Orfe.
I have a pond of approximately 2000 gals. in which I have
Koi, grass carp, ghost carp, comet goldfish and,
of course, golden Orfe. The total number of fish is 20 so the are definitely not overcrowded. Yesterday, Sat. 13th. April, I noticed one of the golden
Orfe, a fish about 10 inches long, was on the surface with its dorsal fin out of the water and it was having the greatest difficulty submerging.
Twenty four hours later it shows no sign of improvement. I can only presume from its condition that it is a swim bladder problem. As at this time of year in England the pond water temperature is still rather low the fish are not really feeding so I am unable to supply any oral treatment, if indeed there is any, at this time. The pond has been treated with
Acriflavine and a commercial tonic pond salt with a Ph buffer. I would be grateful for any suggestions you may have and thank you in anticipation. Kindest regards, Ken. Drewitt.
<I suggest the application of Epsom salt here (Magnesium Sulfate), at the rate of one pound per thousand gallons... I would not be concerned re the lack of feeding during this cooler weather. The root cause/s of this condition may not be nutritionally related, but I would look into a low protein (less than twenty percent by dry weight) prepared food source during cooler months. Bob Fenner>
Sick Koi & Comets
<Hi! Ananda here today while the usual Koi crew are out and about...>
I guess I have been lucky until now, I have a large pond (1600) gallons, this past week the fish all started acting strange, they seem to gulp for air, (not all the time) stay at the waterfall, some have a film
<I'm not quite sure what you mean by "a film"...>
and I have lost 5, the salt level was low, I have brought it up to .2%, the ph, is a little high but not in the alarming range,
<Any change of more than 0.2 per day can be stressful to fish.><<RMF says
0.1>>
the nitrates, ammonia are both ok, the water is on the hard side, well water. We recently put in a new filter system could this have stressed the fish?
<Perhaps, if you also removed the old filter system at the same time, leaving the fish with no biological filtration, or something similar...?>
I also wonder if maybe the pond now is overcrowded as I have several large Koi and then smaller fish. I am at the end of the rope trying to figure things out. There are several pond owners in town that have problems and have lost fish this past week.
<In that case, a couple of things come to mind. Have you had a heat wave? A sudden increase in water temperature might lead to significantly lower oxygen levels. A sudden change could be especially problematic. Did several of these people do a water change shortly after the city added something different to the water, perhaps?>
We have had a lot or rain.
<What is the pH of the rain, compared to the pH of the pond? Is the difference enough to cause a pH swing in the pond?>
If you have any suggestions I would appreciate them.
Sarah
<Got a pond club or Koi club? If so, I'd get everyone who's lost fish, and several people who have not, to check their water parameters -- preferably with the same test kit (pond tour time) or at least using the same brand of kit. I'd compare those results with each other. I'd also look at any trends the various owners may have noticed in their water parameters. And I'd compare pond maintenance practices. I'd look for patterns in just about anything... it's detective work, but perhaps you'll find something. Wish I could be of more help. --Ananda>
All my pond fish have open sores
Hello,
I have a 95 gallon in-ground pond that has been running for the second year.
All of my fish, seven 4" comets and one 7" calico goldfish have developed a
severe case of open sores.
<This is very bad...>
Reading some disease facts on your site, I
believe they have Furunculosis.
<Me too... or some extreme environmental insult>
These are the same fish I had last year
with no problems. I have been told by my LFS to use Pond Melafix to treat
the pond.
<Ehhh... what?>
After 4 days of usage I have not seen any improvement in the
sores. I am at a loss of what to do next. My questions are if I should do
any of the following: Should I continue this treatment, try some other med,
do a large water change, add salt?
<Please review the article on Furunculosis... if all fishes are affected I would
encourage you to commence a regimen of antibiotic laced food/s>
I would appreciate any help you could give me as the situation looks severe.
Background
Early this year, I added a bio filter to the existing bubbler pump to help
filtration and a trickling flagstone rock waterfall. The water has been
clear, which I contribute to the filtering abilities of the thriving water
hyacinth, lettuce, and a water Lily. I have not been in the practice,
however, of testing the water as I did not for the first year which was very
successful. The same has held true for this year except for the open sores
in the fish. I perform a 15 gallon water change about every month.
Feeding is once a day without overfeeding where the fish are always eager
and active to eat. Circulation and oxygenation is very adequate. I have
used the Micro Lift product two times, once in the early spring, and once
about 1 month later. Temperatures, as of first noticing the disease, have
been low in the upper 50's to high in the mid 70s.
Thanks,
Glenn Koenig
<Do you have a sophisticated store where you might take some of your fish for
their inspection? Are the sores emarginated? That is, do they have an obvious
reddish zone about the openings? Bob Fenner>
Koi with fungus
I have a Koi fish who recently got a fungus infection (red spots) and I gave
him a fizz tab called fungus clear, and it almost completely cleared up, but
not quite, so I changed 25% of the water and put in another one in 4 days.
It cleared up, but 4 days after I put it in, it came back, is it safe to give
him a third dose? <It is probably safe to give him the third dose but what
concerns me is why he keeps getting the fungus? Is he rubbing on something? Is
something stressing him? What's the water quality like? You might want to try
addressing these questions while doing his treatment and lets figure out what's
going on to keep the fungus issues happening. Good luck, MacL>
Thank you so much
Question about inside/outside pondfish disease
Hello and thank you in advance for answering my question.
<Hello, Gayle...Jorie here tonight - I'll try my best to help you!>
(1) I had 10 fish in an outside tank until September 18th when I brought them
in for the winter. I used 50% of their water from outside tank and 50% new
water. Tank has 150 gallons in it. It has aquarium salt added. The water
temperature was exactly the same when moved from outside tank to inside tank.
<What type of fish are we talking about? Just goldies or something else as well?
How long have they been in their present tank set-up? It's great that you used
50% "old" (and I am assuming it was old enough to have been a fully cycled tank)
water, but I would still suggest you closely monitor ammonia, nitrite and
nitrates for a while. Have you have taken any measurements? If so, could you
let me know what they were reading? And, definitely good that you matched the
temperature...did you check to see if the pH was the same as well? Something
else to consider...>
(2) The 2 very large Comets became so stressed they were attacking the other
fish. They were removed. 2 Koi appeared to have serious Gill Disease and were
removed. Leaving 4 (6 inch) Koi and 2 (3 inch) Comets.
<Did you put these guys in a hospital tank somewhere? If so, how are they
doing?>
(3) They all had started flashing against the bottom of the tank after being in
the house for a couple of days.
<Again, I would suggest you start with checking all the fundamental water
parameters, such as the ones listed above. Also, I should have asked you
earlier what the "matched" temperature you refer to is at. Perhaps the fish were
reacting to some sort of environmental stressor. Or, perhaps they aren't used
to their new surroundings...is the inside tank in a high-traffic area? Is there
a big difference in decor between the outdoor and the indoor set-ups?>
(4) I treated with Jungle "Anti-Bacterial" fish food for 6 days. They did not
stop flashing but did for the first time ever start carrying their top, dorsal
fins fully erect and seemed happier and not stressed any longer.
<OK...that sounds like you're heading in the right direction. I'm curious if
you ever saw any external parasites on the bodies, or in the gills of these
guys. Or, what about any white spots (ich)? Anything besides the flashing
behavior you've described?>
(5) Then I was told to treat with the Mardel "Copper Safe" for parasites and
"Maracyn Two" for secondary bacterial infections. Since the carbon filter was
in use over 6 days, the instructions said it could be left in place. I
miscalculated and did not purchase enough of these two products so the
recommended full dose was not used in the water. approx. 3/4 doses used.
And since at least one fish had pale, stringy feces, I was told to feed Jungle
"PEPSO FOOD" for internal parasites as well.
<Yikes...this is a lot of medication to introduced all at once. It is generally
not a good idea to mix and match medications - I would bet that your fish aren't
happy to have had all of these meds thrown into their tank at once. Also, it
becomes quite difficult to pinpoint what works and what doesn't work. I would
suggest you do several large water changes (again, make sure to match water
parameters to rid their home of all the toxins that have likely built up. It
sounds to me as though the cause of the problems may have been environmental and
could have been rectified by several large water changes - never underestimate
the power of pristine water conditions! And you should be aware that you've
likely wiped out your bacterial population with all these meds, so your tank is
going to have to re-cycle. That calls for even more water changes, my friend!>
(6) They ate the food Friday night and Saturday morning. Then completely
stopped eating and went into hiding. They won't eat even their favorite foods
and if they come out of hiding, they race madly once around the tank and go back
into hiding. They have not ate for 2 and 1/2 days.
<Check your water parameters.>
(7) I did a partial water change and vacuumed the tank bottom really well. I
am worried they are going to die on me. Please advise ASAP. Thank you, Gayle
<When you say "partial water change", how many gallons are you talking about? In
such a large system (150 gal.), you are going to need to replace a lot of water
(over the course of several changes, not all at once of course) and I'm just
trying to get a handle on how much you've already replaced. In any event, I'd
suggest doing at least a 40-50% water change ASAP. Do take those readings
before and after, though. Give them a few days to settle down and
re-assess. If the flashing behavior continues after the environmental
conditions have been rectified, then chances are you are dealing with some sort
of gill parasites, but I wouldn't go there quite yet. It sounds like you take
very good care of these fish, Gayle, and I hope they pull through. Keep me
posted on how a big ol' water changes affects things, and we'll go from
there. Best of luck, Jorie.>
Fish in a Barrel
I have a 20 gallon whiskey barrel water garden with about six mosquito fish
of various sizes, at least 2 mature females and 1 mature male. I added 2 small
comet goldfish (less than 2 inches long), thinking that they would be
compatible. I took the goldfish out of the barrel and placed in a glass jar
today to check health and overall appearance. To my surprise, ones
tailfin is almost gone, and the other (longer flowing tail) is torn and gone in
places. First I thought it was fin rot, but on closer inspection there is no
white edge or fungus growing on the fins. Are mosquito fish capable of this
damage, or could it be the cooler water temperature of 63 degrees stressing the
fish and causing fin rot? I live in San Diego, but the barrel is deeper than it
is wide, and the water doesn't get a lot of direct sunlight to warm it. Help
I don't want to torture these goldfish.
<Hi, Don here. The temp is a little low, but goldfish can handle even cooler
without problems. They do produce large amounts of waste. If you are not already
doing so I would suggest trying a few large water changes. About 30 to 50%,
siphoned from the bottom. Daily for a few days, weekly after that. A test kit
for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate would confirm this as the problem. do not
forget to match temp and dechlorinate. A little salt would help the fins heal
without getting fungus>
Koi in tank, in trouble
Hello,
It all started when my friend Sara came over. She began to torment my Koi
and he hasn't been the same since. Next thing you know he isn't eating for days.
So I began to get worried and looked around online for what could be wrong with
him. It stated that stress or poor water conditions could have caused him to not
eat and get red spots...which he has a few of now. So I changed the water and a
few days later I thought to change the filter because I thought it may have
become contaminated by the bad water. I figured the water might have gone bad
due to the food sitting at the bottom for too long. So he is still not eating
and I'm worried because I cant bear the thought of losing him. So if he hasn't
eaten by Tuesday I was thinking about putting him in a bigger tank with fresh
water once again. I just wanted to know what you thought could be causing him to
eat and if what I planned on doing was a good idea. Please help me because I'm
stressed every day he is. thank you and I would appreciate it if you could write
me back at XXXX@comcast.net.
- Christine
<Hello Christine, First off I would change 50% of the water in the tank. Your
filters need to be maintained on a weekly basis. Always remember, even though
the waste is in the filter, it is still in the system and needs to be
removed. James (Salty Dog)>
Red Patch on Shubunkin
Dear Crew,
I have a small outside pond (approximately 60 gallons). My two comets and shubunkin have been doing well for the last four years until about one month ago when a heater I put in the pond broke sending an electric current through the pond. The two comets recovered fully, but the shubunkin seems to have a damaged swim bladder. He is unable to hold himself upright when still. However, he can right himself and swim, but once stopped he slides to his side.
<<Ok.>>
He has shone such a desire to live that I have been hand feeding him.
<<Goldfishes/Koi learn this trick well, too.>>
Lately, he has shone a lot of strength and seems to be adjusting to his disability. Within the last few days though, I noticed an angry-looking red patch on the side which he lays on. His tail fin is ragged-looking and somewhat reddish. I'm afraid I caused the fin damage when I started handling him in the pond.
<<Yes, and there's also a good chance of Furunculosis this time of year. Do Google, the web and our site, on diseases of goldfish,
Furunculosis.>>
I am now very careful to not hold or guide him by his fins.
<<Good.>>
Two days ago, I have started treating the pond with Melafix, but in reviewing the WWM site, the benefits of Melafix are both praised and discredited, depending on the WWM crew member responding.
<<Yes, and you'll find me, Marina, agreeing with Bob on the general assessment of this alleged panacea. I'd rather go with salt (literally) than rely on this
derivative of the Melaleuca tree for anything, including relieving dandruff.>>
Also, he seems to have trouble eating as he often spits out the flakes I feed him.
<<I've seen lots of goldfish do this, but if it's not normal for him, I'd go with feeding a slow-sinking pellet, some live, and more vegetable matter. Follow those links via the goldfish web.>>
Can you advise me? Thank you,
Kelly
<<Please do look up as suggested via our Google bar and the web. We have posted a good deal on these subjects.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshdisease.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshfdgfaqs.htm Good luck with keeping this pet going, sounds like overall he's doing pretty well. I think due your diligent care s/he could live to its fullest span. Marina >>
Red Patch on Shubunkin - Doing Better!
Dear Marina,
Thank you for your reply.
<<You're very welcome Kelly.>>
My shubunkin, "Blue," seems to be doing better - the redness in his fins and
the patch on his body seems to be fading.
<<Ah, excellent! I was worried it might be the onset of
Furunculosis.>>
Again, thanks. Kelly
<<Do keep an eye on him, just to be safe (I'm sure you already do), you may
want to have some medications and salt already on hand. A "Fishy First Aid"
kit is good to have in any event. Marina>>
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