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FAQs about the Brooklynellosis Disease and Clownfishes, Cures That Work/ed

Related FAQs: Brooklynellosis 1, Brooklynellosis 2, Brooklynellosis 3, &  & FAQs on Brooklynellosis: Diagnosis/Symptomology, Etiology/Prevention, Cures That Don't WorkTreatment/Products/Manufacturers... & Clownfish Disease 1, Clownfish Disease FAQs 3Clownfish Disease 4, Clownfish Disease 5, Clownfish Disease 10, Clownfish Disease 12, Clownfish Disease 13, Clownfishes in General, Clownfish Identification, Clownfish Selection, Clownfish Compatibility, Clownfish Behavior, Clownfish Systems, Clownfish Feeding, Clownfishes and AnemonesBreeding ClownsParasitic Marine Tanks 1, Marine Parasitic Disease, Parasitic Reef Tanks, Cryptocaryoniasis, Marine Ich, Marine Velvet Disease, Biological Cleaners, Treating Parasitic Disease, Using Hyposalinity to Treat Parasitic Disease

Related Articles: Surviving Brooklynellosis by Mike Maddox, Clownfish Disease, Brooklynellosis, ClownfishesMaroon Clowns, Marine Parasitic Disease

Chromis dying in QT        3/31/15
Good morning!
<And you>
On March 10 I placed 5 Chromis viridis in quarantine (30 gallon, running at 28 gallons, 35ppt salinity). Prior to placing them in QT all fish went through a 5 minute pH and temp adjusted freshwater/Methylene blue dip. They received two treatments of PraziPro at 5 day intervals. All was fine for about a week and a half, then one died overnight. A few days later I lost a
second, and this morning a third. All seemed completely healthy the night before.
<Mmm; well might have been, and be still... I suspect that the sequential losses are/were due to "simple stress". This Blue Damsel doesn't "like" being collected, deprived of solid cover (hide amongst branching/arborose stony corals); nor much crowding in quarantine. I'd expedite the remaining and any further ones you get through quarantine. Perhaps even skipping the process if the animals looked good to begin with (post dipping)>
Since I'm dealing with Chromis and there have been issues with them having a Brook relative, I began treating with Rid-Ich as a bath
<I would NOT do this. MUCH too toxic>
(with StressGuard and antibiotics for secondary infections) after the two treatments of PraziPro - the first two fish died before beginning treatment, the third during the night following the fourth day of treatment. (Rid-Ich is a 15% Formalin solution with malachite green,
<Yes; am aware>
as I can't get my hands on 37% formalin, and this was described in an advanced aquarist article as a useful Brook treatment).
<Better to use CP/Quinine>
In each case I have seen no sign of distress or disease in the fish, with the exception of the second, who was resting upright at the bottom of the tank in the morning, before dying a few hours later. I have seen no wounds, no external discoloration, no labored breathing, all have had good appetites. Is this potentially a capture and transport issue catching up to these specimens, or am I missing something I should be looking for?
<MUCH more likely as you state... capture and transport>
I'm loathe to continue treating with Formalin unless it's likely to cure the issue.
<Worthwhile in specified cases... always toxic>
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Chromis dying in QT        3/31/15

Thanks Bob. Thank you so much for putting up such a great resource.
<Welcome! BobF>

Brook Recovery       7/17/14
A few weeks back I picked up a whitetail Bristletooth tang and after seeing it eat and behave normally for 3 weeks moved it to my display. After a few weeks in the display it mysteriously died and then everything fell apart as following fatalities were clearly brook as the following weekend the clowns skin was peeling off. I pulled what I could and started treatment with ParaGuard since I couldn't find any formalin medications locally. Next week is 6 weeks of the 4-6 week fallow on the main display and the few wrasse and gobies that survived appear to be acting normally. Did the 2 weeks of ParaGuard treatment actually treat the issue or not since they seemed to be fine when I pulled them (the symptomatic clowns died during the first day of treatment). Not sure if it will be safe to re-add them to the display next week or if I should order a formalin treatment online and do that a few days before reintroduction and most ParaGuard info I see online is related to Ich treatment.
<I would do the dip/bath enroute to returning them to the main/display. Bob Fenner>

Formalin and possible alternatives, for treating Brooklynellosis  7/30/10
Hello Crew,
I am looking for an alternative to Formalin 3 as an effective treatment for Brooklynella.
<Quinine compounds>
I'm an aquatics retailer, and have had occasion to use Formalin 3 over the years, with much care and caution, and have found it to be effective. It seems that this stuff is getting harder to come by.
I've been unable to find a reason for that (banned?)
<Mmm, yes. Deemed too toxic by some States... is a potent biocide...>
 I am looking for ideas for alternative medications that are equally as effective.
I have used Ruby Reef Rally
with some success, but my medication of choice is Formalin 3.
Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Kind regards
Jennifer Myerscough
Imagine Ocean Aquarium Services, Inc.
111 Mountain Vista Blvd.
Building A, Suite 140
Canton, GA 30115www.imagine-ocean.com
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/brookyescuref.htm
and here: http://wetwebmedia.com/quinmedfaqs.htm
and the linked files above where you lead yourself. Bob Fenner>
Re: Formalin and possible alternatives 7/30/10
Hello again, Bob,
Many thanks for the swift reply. Having checked some of the links you provided, which link to many more, I'll be doing plenty more reading. I noticed the link for National Fish Pharm and checked that out also.
<Yes... a good source for folks in the trade>
Looks like they can fix me up (and I'll be able to fix customers up) with what I need, and I'll be contacting them also.
<Ah, good>
If I am understanding correctly, the Quinine Compounds (specifically Quinine Sulfate) are indicated to use against Brooklynella as well as Cryptocaryon irritans, is that right?
And one last question (well, there's always another question!): For clarity, is this medication unsafe for use in systems with invertebrates?
<Mmm, some, not all, no>
I never recommend treating a display tank, medications should only be used in an appropriate quarantine/hospital tank, but the question will inevitably be asked of me, so I'd just like to be sure.
<We are in strong agreement>
Thanks for all you and the Crew do. This was my first time sending in a question, but the site has been a priceless resource for me since I started writing my business plan, 9 years ago.
<And you my friend. BobF>

Brooklynella -- 02/02/10
I want to start by stating how awesome your site is for the hobby.
<We share!>
I have a store fish system that consist of 25 tanks and roughly 1200 gallons of saltwater.
<Wow! Shrank from ayer>
I have discovered that I have Brooklynella. the other systems that are in the store is a single 300 gallon tank containing soft corals, a single 400 gallon tank with sps, and a 250 with cured live rock. what would be your
recommendation on correcting this?
<Chloroquine Phosphate... see WWM re>
Do these parasites host on Wrasse?
<Can, yes>
thank you for your time!
<Certainly welcome. Bob Fenner>

Brooklynellosis 1/9/10
my name is Kira, I have a 128L complete tank from Aqua world not too sure of the model and I had 3 fish (Moorish idol, lemon peel and a Pomacanthus imperator) I lost my idol because the lemon attacked him and I sold my lemon peel and was left with my emperor (I know the tank is well under the minimum I was planning to upgrade he was only a juvenile of 3 inches) I had him alone in the tank for about a month and he was fine eating well and healthy,
but just 5 days ago he died from Brooklynella hostiles I treated him the day I started to see signs but unfortunately I
still lost him the day I started treatment. So now the question is how long should I wait before I put another fish in there and should I add more treatment to help kill it off??
<<Hello Kira, in short Brooklynellosis is a protozoan parasite, you remove the food source and the parasites die. This should be fairly simple since you no longer have any livestock. Do not add any live animals for 4-6 weeks, keep up on regular maintenance and all should be okay. In the future please refer to our articles prior to initiating a crew correspondence. The answers you seek can be found here;
Here are a couple non WWM sources;
To be succinct most recommend Formalin baths and quarantine, (though it should be noted that many scaleless fish react poorly to Formalin), in which case hyposalinity/Osmotic treatment and freshwater baths could be preferred.
Good luck, - Adam J>>

Re: Brook treatment  6/9/08 Hi Guys, Thanks for the guidance, I have one quick question with regards to the underlying problem How many days should my tank go fallow and how many days should the fish in the QT be treated to ensure that Brook does not catch up again? <... at least four weeks... six are better> My friend treated his display with copper+formalin and got rid of the same problem a year ago, He says the beneficial bacteria would come back automatically after a few months after all the copper leaches away (he is asking me to make 25% water changes every two weeks after 2 weeks of treatment for around 4 months). He says its a fool proof method since i have only a FOWLR and water quality problems should not arise if i keep my fish population at the same level for about 1/2 an year. Is this true and agreeable??? <I think this is too long exposure to these treatment chemicals... Please see WWM re... RMF> Thanks and Regards, Ashok Poondi

Brooklynella inquiry    3/31/06 Dear Mr. Fenner et al, <Howzit?> Last evening, I noticed that my Clarkii clownfish wasn't eating and seemed to lack energy/movement. I checked my water parameters, and everything was as it should be--ideal, in fact.   Of note, the fish is hosted by a green bubble tip anemone in a 55g and is a new addition, following 3 weeks of uneventful quarantine. (As an aside, a yellow tang remains in my quarantine tank... wanted to give it additional time, perhaps up to 5 weeks, in QT before moving to the display). <Good to read of your practices, patience> Other display tank residents include two dispar Anthias, a neon damsel and an algae blenny.   Back to the Clarkii, upon closer inspection, I spotted small, white uneven growths on its side, just behind his front bar.    Deduction: Brooklynella. <Mmm, I wouldn't be so fast here> I immediately set up a separate treatment tank, captured the clown and coursed through the prescribed freshwater dip and formalin bath that you've recommended.   (Rather miraculously, I've gone for years without a disease outbreak; I keep such supplies handy knowing that it's "just a matter of time"). <Do know that "formalin" generally does not "keep">   If my understanding is correct, this dip/bath combo is to continue for three days until the parasite is no longer visible (assuming the clown lives)---and if it reappears, wait two days and recommence with the same treatment, correct? <Yes, this is a standard protocol for Brooklynellosis> I have some related questions, the answers to which I was unable to find in the FAQs: 1. Should the fish survive, how long should it remain in the treatment tank? <A week or two... to recover... hopefully. Oh, I see below you might return it to the quarantine system> The tank is outfitted with some biological filtration and aeration but is only 4 gallons (the QT is 20). I plan to do daily water changes with RO water and slowly lower the salinity to 1.010 for the duration of the treatment, however long that may be.    <The formalin will assuredly (if it is of useful strength/concentration) kill off the beneficial microbes... immediately... You will want to monitor (daily) for ammonia, nitrite... be ready to change out water> 2. Should the clown eventually return to the quarantine tank with the tang (much larger tank, more bio filtration, more stable water parameters, etc.)---or would that merely introduce the possibility of infecting the tang (if it isn't already)? <Won't spread this pathogen... but/and I actually doubt this is what it may appear> There is a cleaner shrimp in the quarantine tank, if that's relevant. <Yes, and of use. I would leave it there> 3. My other fish--the Anthias, damsel and blenny--are showing no symptoms, eating piggishly and swimming happily--at least for now. Is the best course of action to act proactively and remove these fish from the display and let the tank go fallow (ugh...LOTS of live rock that they like to hide in/behind...but they can be captured and go into the quarantine with the tang). If they remain in the tank and stay symptom free, would it be just as likely that the clown will rejoin them and come down with Brooklynella again since the parasite might exist at low levels in the display? <I don't think this is Brooklynella... If you do... returning the Clown will result in re-infestation likely... a real problem in commercial settings...> 4. What, if any, threat is this parasite to the host anemone? <None> The clown primarily nestled in the Bubbletip for several days before removal for treatment and hardly went out, except for food the first couple days in the display.   The Bubbletip appeared to respond favorably to the hosting opportunity and is now about 1/2 to 3/4 of the size it was when the Clarkii was present. 5. I understand the Clarkii to be very hardy---once it's acclimated and settled in, but this state of flux...from dealer to quarantine to display to dip/bath treatments daily....is clearly going to compromise its immune system for the foreseeable future.   So, in the meantime, how can I contribute to its ultimate resistance to the parasite beyond what I'm already doing? <Mmm, yes... nutritionally...> What other counsel do you have to help ward off another outbreak...besides quarantine even longer?    <The best? Selecting tank-bred and reared specimens that have not had exposure...> Thank you, in advance.   I want to do my best to save this fish and ensure the longest life possible for it and the others.    Conscientiously yours, Eric <Mmm, I do wish there was more opportunity to see such events, remark on them... ahead of your efforts here. This protozoan looks different from what you've described. Have you seen the pic here: http://wetwebmedia.com/brooklynellosisart.htm Is generally more diffuse... slimy in appearance. A small microscope would have been of tremendous use here... maybe give a look/consideration of the QX3 or later generation... reviewed in places on WWM... Better to leave off here for now. Bob Fenner>

Sick Clown (Brooklynellosis?)  9/28/06 Hi Guys, I just purchased a pair of Clarkii Clowns from my LFS. They are absolutely beautiful and have a great relationship with one another. I skipped out on quarantine because they are the first fish introduced to this reef tank. <You'll learn... are learning> (I had a major power failure over a month ago and the tank was a total loss, but that's a different story) The fish were doing great for the first week. However last night, I noticed that the larger fish had what looked like a "fat lip" with some white strands hanging down from it. He also had the white "poop" hanging down and another small white spot on his side. <I take it these are wild-collected specimens...> I read up on Brooklynellosis and decided that the symptoms my fish is suffering from appear to be pretty consistent with this parasite. All of your articles indicate that this disease progresses very rapidly so I removed both clowns from the main tank at once. I placed them in a ph and temp adjusted fresh water dip medicated with a Methylene Blue/Formalin mix medicine. They stayed in the bath for about 30 min.s without any problems. <Good> I put the fish in my quarantine tank where I am slowly reducing the salinity. The large fish appears to be doing better. The swelling in his mouth has gone down and the white strands are gone. A red abrasion is present on the front of his mouth. My questions for you. 1. How many more medicated dips should I do? and should I continue to dip the smaller fish which is not showing any symptoms? <I'd do two more dips... and yes, for both> 2. Should I continue to dip in fresh water or go back to salt? <I would use FW, pH-adjusted> 3. Is there any other medication that I should add to the quarantine tank (or dip bucket) such as antibiotics or a stress coat med? <I would not> 4. The only other fish in the main tank is a wrasse. He was added the same time as the clowns. Do you think that he could keep the parasite present in the main tank. I would prefer to not have to remove him, he's difficult to catch with all the LR. Thanks guys, your help is always appreciated.** <A tough call... other families, species of fishes have been known to "catch" Brooklynella hostilis... including Labrids... If it were me, mine, I'd move, treat all fishes, let the main tank "at least" go fallow (sans fish hosts) for a month... if not "nuke it" (e.g. bleach...) and start again with cycling... Bob Fenner>

Can puffers be infected with Brooklynella? Short answer, yes... and much reading    10/21/07 I have a 55 gal. tank which housed a black and white percula, a maroon clown, <Not a good idea together> a porcupine puffer, a rose Bubbletip anemone, and a Condy anemone. <Ditto> Both clowns just died from what seems to be Brooklynella. <Mmm... symptomatically, this protozoan looks like other parasites...> They both had all of the symptoms. My question is can the puffer be infected with the Brooklynella? <... yes. Though this complaint is called "Clownfish Disease"... the causative organism is known to infest other fish families...> It seems to be primarily a clownfish disease. Also, will this Brooklynella live in my tank without adding something to remove it? <? Yes> I have nowhere to move my puffer or anemones <These are misplaced together BTW...> to in order to quarantine them. My LFS is to blame for the death of my clowns, the maroon was sold to me with the Brooklynella and I was told it was caused by other fish picking on him and that he had no disease and was fine. I only found out about the Brooklynella after both clowns died. Please let me know before my puffer kicks the bucket, too. Thanks so much, you have a wonderful site! Sincerely, Jennifer <... please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm Peruse the articles, FAQs files on Marine Parasitic Disease, Brooklynellosis... can really only be treated efficaciously with formalin baths, isolation/quarantine of all fish hosts... Bob Fenner>

Possible Brooklynellosis -- 11/17/07 Hi there, <Hello, Brenda here> I currently have two clowns (Ocellaris) and I noticed the day before yesterday a white cottony film...looks like mildew. Anyway, he is eating, and my other clown is acting normal. My worry, he is opening and closing his mouth more rapidly than normal, and he is swimming around really fast...Is it Brooklynellosis, or could it be a sting from my frogspawn, he keeps sticking his head in it. <It sounds like Brooklynellosis, but can't say for sure. How long have you had the clownfish? Did you quarantine? Can you get a picture of it for us? I do suggest moving the fish to quarantine ASAP. More information on Brooklynellosis found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brooklynellosisart.htm > I am really worried. I don't want to loose them both. <Hope this helps! Brenda>

Re: Possible Brooklynellosis -- 11/17/07 I have yet to quarantine them. I don't currently have a qt tank? <Yikes!> Should I go buy a Tom Deco? Would that work for now? <No, a 2 -- 3 gallon tank is much too small. I recommend nothing smaller than a 10 gallon tank. What size tank are you currently keeping these fish in? Are there any other fish besides the clownfish in there? More information regarding quarantine here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i4/quarantine/Quarantine.htm Brenda>

Re: Possible Brooklynellosis, and link for formalin use  -- 11/18/07 No there are only two clownfish. I plan on doing a fresh RO water dip with formalin. <See instructions here for Formalin baths: http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/formalinbaths.html However, this may not be the best course of action. I really need more information that you haven't yet provided.> I don't have a QT tank, so I'm just going to do a dip, and hope that cures it. <You need to be sure this is Brooklynellosis. The Formalin procedure is very stressful on fish. It is possible that this is caused from the frogspawn. Which in that case, a dip may only make the situation worse. There may also be something else going on. Also please send me a complete list of your water parameters.> Do you think this will work? <I can't say. Brenda>

Re: Possible Brooklynellosis -- Not answering questions or reading! -- 11/18/07 I went to my LFS, and they said that it was Brooklynellosis...and advised me to do a dip, I did, for 4 minutes. <Four minutes is not long enough for Brooklynellosis, nor is it per the instructions I provided. Please read!> After I got him out, he was calm, and breathing a little heavy, but he ate and was swimming around. I dipped the female and today she is extremely happy. Swimming around, checking out all the coral, but the male on the other hand, still has some of the cottony mucus, and his tail fin is starting to fray and discolor...should I take him out, and find a tank to QT the other? <Please see my previous e-mails and links provided regarding my suggestions/recommendations on quarantine. Brenda>

Re: Possible Brooklynellosis -- Not answering questions or reading! - 11/18/07 I took him out and froze him...:( it was the best thing for him. Any insight? <Eighteen minutes since your last e-mail you froze him? I'm speechless! Brenda>

Re: Possible Brooklynellosis -- Not answering questions or reading! - 11/18/07 Hi there, <I have received your last 3 e-mails, and will answer them here.> I just tested parameters Nitrate- 10, <Needs to be zero.> Nitrite- 0, Ammonia- 0, and pH- 8.2-8.3. <This is an incomplete list of water parameters.> I'm just confused. My female (knock on wood) seems fine. She's swimming around like normal, playing, breathing, eating...what should I do? <You have to help me, help you. You are not answering my questions. You have given me a partial list of water parameters. I have no idea what your salinity, temperature, calcium and alkalinity are. I don't know how long you have had the fish. I don't know the tank size or how long it has been set up. You are not following my recommendations of quarantine and you are not following the instructions in the links provided. Brenda> Re: Possible Brooklynellosis -- Not answering questions or reading! - 11/18/07 No, I froze him before that...he was suffering bad, and I followed what my LFS said. <You will have to decide which advice you want to follow. I personally have put a lot of time into these eight e-mails with you, and I am not going to be able to help you if you are not going to follow my advice.> I didn't read my email...I did it last night. About the quarantine, I don't have another tank for my other fish, and I have corals. She isn't showing signs...yet, what do you suggest? <Quarantine everything! Read the links I've provided! Don't purchase any more fish until you are knowledgeable in their care, and can provide a quarantine tank for them. Quarantine all new fish a minimum of 30 days, no exceptions here. Sick fish need to be quarantined much longer. As far as the other clownfish, and assuming that the other fish had Brook, it is a possibility that the surviving fish will also begin to show signs. Brenda> Re: Possible Brooklynellosis -- Not answering questions or reading! - 11/18/07 He looked terrible!! <Yes, I can imagine! Keep reading! Brenda>
Re: Possible Brooklynellosis -- Not answering questions or reading! Nor referring... - 11/18/07 My tank is a BC14, <A 14 gallon BioCube? Stock lighting on this tank is a bit low for frogspawn. Do you have a skimmer on this tank? If so, what kind? How much live rock do you have in this tank?> The salinity is 1.023, temp 78, calcium and Alk. not sure, had the fish about two weeks. <Your new fish were likely wild caught or they were captive raised and mixed with diseased wild caught fish. There are plenty of clownfish breeders. I do suggest buying captive raised livestock when you can. This does not mean you don't need to quarantine, but it does lessen the chances of disease. I also recommend that you acclimate your livestock to both temperature and chemistry. Set up a quarantine tank and follow the instructions I previously provided. Don't add any more livestock for several weeks. Since you have already dipped the remaining fish once, watch it closely. I would not dip again at this time. It will only cause stress to this creature. If the fish starts to show signs of Brooklynellosis, follow the instructions I previously provided for the dip.> It has been set up for about 3 months. <Your tank is still new. It will go through a lot of changes before it becomes established. Keep an eye on water parameters and keep up with water changes to reduce the stress on the livestock. Brenda>

Beating Brooklynella Hi guys, <Scott F. here today!> I need your help on this one. I have an established 55 gallon marine aquarium with Live rock, which was basically stocked with fish and a few inverts (mostly crabs and a cleaner shrimp).  I recently introduced several fish to the tank ( four blue Chromis) and noticed that within a day one of the Chromis was turning grey and starting to develop serious mucus, and expired within two days.  At first I thought it might have been stress that did him in from the mail order shipping, however within two days I noticed white specks all over several other fish.  Basically on the fins and mouth.  It looked too small to be Ich but larger than velvet.  I tried Kick Ich, Maracyn, and Rally over the past several weeks but more and more of the fish were becoming infected.  I did a little more research into various marine diseases and I now believe that what the infection was, was Brooklynella. <Yep, this sounds just like Brooklynella to me. Good pickup!> The infected fish showed no real signs of debilitation other than the spots for several days, then begin to hover near the bottom of the tank, eventually there eyes would get cloudy, mucus or what looked like scales/skin began shedding off of the fish and within 24 hours afterward they would be dead.  All that is left in the tank is a yellow tang and a percula clown.  For years I have never had any type of bacterial, fungal or parasitic infection in my tank, but now I am paying the price for not maintaining a quarantine tank. <Well, that's true. At least you are learning the value of the quarantine process, so this awful experience will not have been in vain...> I have several questions for you.  Tonight I set up a quarantine tank with some live rock and substrate from my main tank.  I have no idea if this will be bringing any of the offenders into the QT or not, but I needed something with some type of biological filtration. <Oops! Don't do this! The "hospital tank" (or your quarantine tank) should not have any substrate or rock. By bringing in substrate and rock from the main tank, you are very likely to bring the parasites into the treatment tank. Plus, having a substrate reduces the effectiveness of medications, such as copper sulphate, which tend to be absorbed by these materials. You can supply necessary biological filtration for a QT tank by running a sponge filter in your sump for a couple of weeks before you use it in the QT tank. In this case, I'd go with one of the "cultures" that you can get at the LFS, such as Cycle, etc. to "kick start" the treatment tank.>   I have read that if I raise the temperature of the QT tank to mid 80s, that the reproduction cycle can be broken. <Not broken, but sped up. Medication is required to nail this disease...And, let your main tank run fallow, without fishes, for at least a month. THAT will help break the life cycle of this nasty parasite.> Should I dip my fish in formalin or malachite green and then place them into the QT, then raise the temp up? <I'd give the affected fishes at least a 10 minute freshwater dip, then place them into the treatment tank, where you could administer a Formalin-based medication, per manufacturer's dosage and instructions.> Also, anything that seems to wipe out Brooklynella also destroys the biological filtration, is there any other treatment that I can use? <Honestly, I'd go with the old-fashioned, effective Formalin technique. It works!> If I remove the fish from my main tank, is the best way to clear up the infestation, just let it tank run (with the inverts) without fish for 3-4 weeks and hope they all die off?  If I go this route, what will happen to the biological filtration in my main tank?  Without the waste load of fish, will the live rock and the rest of the biological filter weaken or cease to exist? <Just let it run fallow, without the fishes. You'd be surprised at how well things will run during this time. And, continue to perform all regular maintenance during this period. Fallow tanks are no guarantee that the disease will be completely eradicated from your tank, but it is a big help.> Finally, around the time that I added the new fish, I also added a few pieces of cured live rock from the LFS.  After several of the fish perished, I noticed very, very small white "bugs" crawling on the glass.  I can't give more of a description as they are so minute in size (probably 15-20 would cover the head of a pin).  The owner of the LFS feels that it was probably something living on the live rock before I introduced it into my tank.  He thought it was not the cause of the tank apocalypse.  Can you tell me if Brooklynella is an animal that could be seen with the naked eye? <Very unlikely that you could see the parasites. Sounds like some kind of other life form that you will find on rock...However, there is a possibility that the parasites did come in on the new rock, visible or not> Any help you can give me regarding this is much appreciated as it is hard to watch this destruction happen so quickly.  I am anxious to 'rebuild' but I want to do things correctly to ensure that everything is properly eradicated. I guess I will keep a QT tank up and running at all times from now on!  Thanks. Dave <Well, Dave- I predict that you will be a very vocal proponent of the quarantine process, just like yours truly! It only takes one experience like this to make you a believer! Hang in there...You can beat this thing! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Battling Brooklynella  Hi crew,  <Scott F. here today!>  I have been battling what I thought was Marine Ich, but I now believe to be Brooklynellosis. The reason I believe this, is because I have 2 clowns and 5 other fish and only the two clowns ever show signs of any disease (unfortunately the disease came about in my main tank). I have been FW bathing the clowns to keep them in good health. My question is will Brooklynellosis die out in the main tank if the other fish never show any signs of disease, or will they host it just like Ich?  <Good question. Brooklynella is a protozoan-based disease, similar to Ich. It is actually found on occasion in Angelfish, too. Personally, I'd attack this problem just like I would Ich: Remove all potential hosts (your fishes) to a separate tank for further observation, while letting the main tank run "fallow" for about a month. Better to be safe than sorry, IMO. Good luck! Regards, Scott F> 

Fallow Tank hello, <Morning! Ryan with you> I recently lost my two Percula Clowns to Brooklynellosis.  I was treating the tank with Formalin for two days...I was literally turning on the light to another tank when I turned around and they were both dead.  My question for you today is if the tank is still infected.  They were the only fish in the tank at the time and its been running without fish for about 4 days.  I want to add more clowns and was wondering when I could. <Sam, you need to allow time for any Protozoans in your tank to die.  Without a host, they soon will, but it's going to take time.  Most experts advise 4-6 weeks of running your tank "fallow" before returning livestock.   http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brooklynellosisart.htm  Good luck! Ryan> Thanks Sam

Frequency of Brook Treatment Please help!  We are researching and researching and can't seem to find a unified answer.  How often do we do the formalin dips?  Can we do them every day or must we stick to the every other day? <Can be done daily if the specimen/s are in otherwise good health> We have a clown that has Brooklynella and would hate to lose her...she actually ate yesterday a little while after a dip, but today is hovering at the top again.  Do we have to wait until tomorrow to dip or can we do it again today?  Thank you so much for your help! <Mmm, are you returning this fish to the same infested system? Please read here re the causative organism of this disease: http://wetwebmedia.com/brooklynellosisart.htm and the related FAQs files (linked, in blue, at top). Bob Fenner>

Brooklynella or ICH? Treat for both... 9/19.5/05 Was wondering if you could help me ID This... I don't want to let this destroy my tomato clowns but some say Ich and one says Brooklynella but I want to be sure and treat it right and quick photos are here: www.fearstyle.com/photography/wtf/ they are a tad large and first stab photographing with a macro lens its hard to keep a moving subject in focus :( - Scott <Well Scott, the easiest thing to do is treat for both.  Your pictures were a little too blurry for me to make a definitive diagnosis, but it is easy enough to deal with both possibilities.  I would give the fish a formalin bath on its way into a quarantine tank where it is followed up with a hyposalinity treatment.  -Steven Pro (a blast from the past at MACNA).>


Brooklynella 11-29-05 Hi guys, <Hello> I am really desperate for an answer regarding disease. I have had 2 Percula Clowns in the tank for about 2 months now and they seem to have suddenly erupted in a fungus/parasitic infection. The white stripes are flaking and turning grey, and there are a combination of white bumps and white spots descending over the gill area. I have read many FAQs on Clownfish disease/disease but have a dilemma; I am going to place the two clowns into QT for treatment, however there is no way that I can include the other fish, due to territoriality and restriction of volume.  These are: 2 X Green Chromis, 1 X Andaman Damselfish and 1 X Royal Gramma. Could I please add that these fish are showing no signs or symptoms and are as full of vigor as ever. My question is, would it be too risky to QT the clowns but simply observe the others for a change in condition?  <Yes, the other fish will be carriers if they don't die and will infect the clowns when they come back. Use plenty of hiding spots in the QT and you can even use buckets to QT if necessary.> Secondly, tiny (about half a millimeter) clear sacs containing what look like eggs are sporadically stuck to the inside glass. I believed these to be Nerites eggs but am now wishing to know if they are perhaps parasites or spores etc. <Most likely snail eggs. Nothing to worry about.> Many, many thanks in anticipation of any help offered. Steve Morse. <Glad to help, Travis> 

Brooklynella?  12/9/05 Hello, <Hi Mark.> I have two tomato clowns who are very active with there mate anemone. Just recently my wife and I have noticed a white, almost greasy like substance on their bodies. They are showing no signs of "illness" or lethargy. <Mmm, hard to say without a picture but from your description sounds like Brooklynella. It's quite common on wild-caught anemone fish. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brooklynellosisart.htm. If what your fish have is indeed Brooklynella they will need to be moved to a quarantine tank to treat them. In fact any fish other fish in the display will also need to be moved into the quarantine as this is a direct transmission parasite. The display tank needs to run empty for 4 weeks minimum. For Brooklynella the most effective treatment in my experience is pH adjusted freshwater dips and saltwater/formalin baths. These procedures can be found here at WWM also. Though I digress, first and foremost I would identify what this is on your specimen before going forward with nay treatment/actions.> They eat as  they always do and love being in their anemone. <<This does not sound like Brooklynellosis, as this disease kills too quickly.  Marina>> <Keep feeding a varied diet.> Contents of our 90gal. high sump tank. 40#'s live rock, 2 yellow belly damsels, 1 green Chromis, 1 cherry pseudo, 1 medium yellow tang, 1 cleaner shrimp, 1 blood shrimp, 1 coral banded shrimp, 1 brain coral, 1 sm. colony rock, blue mushroom coral, 1 button pearl coral, 2 large snails, 5 scarlet crabs, 4 turbo snails and 1 blue knuckle crab.  Diet consists of frozen brine <I would like you to ahead and cut the brine from the diet, its not very nutritious at all, switch to a more varied diet, i.e. Mysis, Prime Reef, rotifers, squid and other meats of a marine origin, also consider a nutritional supplement such as Selcon or Zoe.> flake Spirulina and krill once in a while.  Water changes weekly and a min. 25% change once a month. <10% weekly would be much better.> We utilize an Excalibur protein skimmer.  I would appreciate any feedback that would help. <I hope it has helped.> Thank you, Mark
<Welcome, Adam J.>

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