SPS coral ID (Porites sp?) and care/concerns      6/29/17 Crew! I'm at my wit's end! This coral came in as a hitch-hiker on a (DOA) turbo snail and I placed it in relatively high light (3W LEDs @ 40% and ~6" through glass ) and moderate flow. It initially did great, spreading from smaller than a dime to covering most of the turbo shell and onto the rock, probably about a 1" diameter, in about 3 months. Then it stopped spreading/encrusting and a small black patch appeared in the center. <Mmm; well; is this an Alveopora? Twelve tentacles per polyp? Really only do well in high (er than most aquarium) nutrient settings... silt/muck, high organic content... on the bottom> It looked a little like red slime algae (which I don't have) and after a few days the 'algae' was gone and this is what it looked like. Over the last 3 weeks it has continued to slowly recede from that center patch with 'dead' coral skeleton left in about 3/8" circle in the center of the colony. This is the only piece of SPS in a mixed Soft/LPS tank (esp. var. Zoas, leathers, mushrooms, Euphyllia sp., Blastomussa sp.) and my son (who found the hitchhiker) is *very* concerned for 'his' coral. I don't have any coral nippers that I know of and my tank has been running very smoothly for approximately 8 months since cycling (220 gal RR, 300#+ LR, 30 gal macro fuge, 15x flow). Any ideas on ID, care, and what to do? <Set in a low movement corner, allow particulates to gather about, feed every polyp...> [image: Inline image 1] Branon <See WWM re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/poritidsysfaqs.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: SPS coral ID (Porites sp?) and care/concerns      6/29/17 The Venerable Mr. Fenner! Thanks for the prompt response. I considered Alveopora (uniformly 12 tentacles/polyp) but the polyps are so dense and small (~2-3 mm ea.) that it didn't fit anything I know in my very limited experience. If so, low flow, and target feed phyto? lighting? Thanks! Branon <More meaty foods, chopped fine, than phytoplankton or actually any prep. Do the reading re feeding these colonies... I'd develop a routine (for now) with placing a cover over, basting with a plastic pipette or such. BobF> *Branon Re: SPS coral ID (Porites sp?) and care/concerns      6/29/17 Bob, I don't know if this helps, but here's a photo of the frag when we found it, with polyps retracted, as well as a video of the polyps 'in action'. (Sorry for the cell-phone quality)Thanks! [image: Inline image 1] Branon <Mmm; can't tell much more from these media. BobF>

red Goniopora question   4/2/12 <... our guidelines call for maximum file sizes of a few hundred Kbytes... yours is 5.5 megs... WHY?> Greetings WWM crew, I've been having a problem with my established red ORA Goniopora, <... misplaced. And you haven't searched, read ahead of writing us. Do so: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/poritidhlthfaqs.htm and the linked files above. Follow directions or go elsewhere. Bob Fenner>>  which has not opened in about ten days.  It's been thriving in my 90 gallon reef tank for about 15 months, growing from  the size of a golf ball (when closed) to tennis ball size now.  It has not been moved, T5 lighting hasn't changed (bulbs around 6 months old), I'm still using the same salt mix (salinity) and my own RO/DI water.  Everything else in the tank looks great; all fish are happy and eating well, and all other corals are wide open and growing quickly (including a green Goniopora that's been in the tank for about 6 months).  I did recently add a small yellow mimic tang and pencil wrasse, but I've never seen either mess with the red goni and they were together for about 2 weeks before the coral closed up shop.  Also, the red goni shows no signs of tissue degeneration: the polyps aren't pulled in super tight, but are not extending at all.  For the first few days I thought that maybe it just wasn't hungry, but now am starting to worry. All the tank parameters look good, except that the ph has been a little low, 7.9-8.1 (which is typical in my aquarium).  Readings are as follows: sg 1.026; calcium 420, alkalinity 13.4 dKH, ammonia and nitrite 0, phosphates .36ppm (also typical in my tank).  I run carbon and phosphate reactors (using SeaChem matrix carbon and Brightwell extrax Phos), and switched out all media a few days ago.  Also, I have extra carbon and poly filter pads between sump chambers that all tank water passes through.  I regularly supplement with coral color, vitamin C and Iodine.  I have not checked Magnesium or Iodine lately but will tonight.  Also have plentiful macro algae and copepods in refugium lit with T5's This tank receives weekly 10-15% water changes, and the critters inside get a varied diet of frozen, pellet, and (targeted) liquid foods daily (with the return off for about 45 minutes). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  This coral is the star of my tank and would be a devastating loss.  2 pictures attached, 1 close-up of goni, 1 full tank Thanks much for your ever invaluable assistance, Eric

Re: red Goniopora question  4/2/12 Sorry Bob <Eric! Our rinky dink webmail program has too limited a storage/size... ALL has to be expediently processed or the mail starts getting kicked back> I didn't even think about the size of the attachments.  As for reading ahead: I did read ahead but couldn't find the answer <READ please re the genus on WWM... HAS to be set on the substrate (sand, mud ideally), ALL polyps have to be individually fed... NEEDs high nutrient levels... B> Goniopora update, Fe saves   4/14/12 Greetings Crew <Eric> I emailed about ten days ago about a declining red ORA Goniopora that had stopped opening for over two weeks.  Bob chastised me for sending in pictures that were larger than allowed, <Sounds about right> and referred me to the FAQ pages; however, the only info I found there indicated that I should not have the animal in the rockwork but in the sand bed (I have two in my tank, both about 4 inches off the sand on rock ledges, that have been doing great for 6 months (a green one), and 15 months (a red one)). I moved the red one to the sand, and while its condition did not improve, several of the polyps along the base of the coral died.  Thus, I moved it back to its earlier spot.  I recently bought the Coral Color Pro kits which provide a test for Iron, and which showed that my iron had indeed reached a very low level.  I upped it with the coral color C product, and voila, within 24 hours the Goniopora began to open up, and in 72 hours it had returned to its normal, healthy condition. <Ahh!> I hope this information can help others who have declining Goni's, so thought I would share. <I thank you> As always, much appreciation for your site and helpful assistance. Eric <Cheers, BobF>

Goniopora and worms 10/10/11
Greetings! First time questioner here. We have, having purchased prior to proper research (oops) a small clump of green Goniopora. he <his> stalks are rather short, and it has a tendency to stay retracted most of the time.
<Mmm, are you feeding all?>
We have it in the sand at the bottom of the tank, with good water flow. We've been moving it around trying to figure out what it likes. My wife noticed a discolored line going across the face of the base, and after a lot of research, found where someone else had this issue, and ended up removing a worm from their clump. I placed ours in a shallow dish, and with a little gentle brushing with a toothbrush, managed to dislodge a skinny, inch and a half worm.
<Not likely harmful...>
I'll be taking him into my lfs for identification later, but I'm wondering if having this guy on there was detrimental to the health of our goni. I've been checking your site for solutions to our issues, you guys really seem to give some excellent advice, and in a way that can be clearly understood by all. Thanks!!
Dave M.
<Well... you can/could treat the water in a separate system w/ the Goniopora... w/ an Anthelminthic to remove all such worms... But I wouldn't. Instead, take the time to read all on WWM re the genus: http://wetwebmedia.com/poritidae.htm
the linked files above. Most "Gonis" perish for lack of nutrient... being placed in too-sterile settings, not having all "stalks" fed. Bob Fenner>

help with Alveopora /RMF 4/18/11
greetings crew of WWM. Kudos for your amazing site and copious help. I'm hoping this questions isn't redundant as that I have not found the answer in your archives.
<Me too>
I have a Alveopora (Daisy coral) that had been doing quite well until a few days ago. I noticed that over the last 72 hours it has failed to fully open (the colony consists of 2 bulbs, with the rear bulb appearing less afflicted), and one portion seems to show receding tissue and dead 'honeycomb' cells. I didn't notice the dead tissue until later in the day, leading me to believe that it was not there in the morning, but presented itself around 3pm. By 6pm I have noticed little to no change.
About the tank: I have a very full 55 gallon with a 30 gallon sump (3 chambers) running a Coralife protein skimmer (which has been off for the last 48 hours due to foaming in reaction to some putty application for coral movement).
<Turn this back on>
I have 3 power heads running, all a medium flow, 2 of which are set to 10 second pulses from a wave box. Lighting consists of 6 54 watt T5HO's, 3 10,000k Daylight and 3 Actinic Blue (48" Nova Extreme Pro fixture). Also, retrofit with 4 LED moonlights, 2 white and 2 blue.
Conditions: PH 8.1, Alkalinity 3.5mEq/L, Nitrate ~10, Nitrite under .2,
<... has to be zero. Zero. Trouble here>
Ammonia 0, Calcium 500ppm,
<Too high... and Mg conc.?>
and Salinity 1.025
Alveopora is in the lower front center of the tank, above an open brain and to the right of pulsing xenia. All other fish and corals appear healthy and happy, including a Red Goniopora (former in tank for 4 months; latter in tank for 6)
<... and this Poritid may well be mal-affecting it>
I sure hope you can help!
Best,
Eric
<See WWM re NO2, Cnidarian allelopathy. Bob Fenner>
Help With Alveopora/Poritidae Health 4/19/2011 /James
Greetings crew of WWM. Kudos for your amazing site and copious help.
<Hello Eric, and you're welcome.>
I'm hoping this questions isn't redundant as that I have not found the answer in your archives.
I have a Alveopora (Daisy coral) that had been doing quite well until a few days ago. I noticed that over the last 72 hours it has failed to fully open (the colony consists of 2 bulbs, with the rear bulb appearing less afflicted), and one portion seems to show receding tissue and dead 'honeycomb' cells. I didn't notice the dead tissue until later in the day, leading me to believe that it was not there in the morning, but presented itself around 3pm. By 6pm I have noticed little to no change.
About the tank: I have a very full 55 gallon with a 30 gallon sump (3 chambers) running a Coralife protein skimmer (which has been off for the last 48 hours due to foaming in reaction to some putty application for coral movement).
I have 3 power heads running, all a medium flow, 2 of which are set to 10 second pulses from a wave box. Lighting consists of 6 54 watt T5HO's, 3 10,000k Daylight and 3 Actinic Blue (48" Nova Extreme Pro fixture). Also, retrofit with 4 LED moonlights, 2 white and 2 blue.
Conditions: PH 8.1, Alkalinity 3.5mEq/L, Nitrate ~10, Nitrite under .2, Ammonia 0, Calcium 500ppm,
<A little high.>
and Salinity 1.025
<How about magnesium, just as important as calcium.>
Alveopora is in the lower front center of the tank, above an open brain and to the right of pulsing xenia. All other fish and corals appear healthy and happy, including a Red Goniopora (former in tank for 4 months; latter in tank for 6)
I sure hope you can help!
<Alveopora catalai colonies tend to waste away slowly in captivity, much like the related Goniopora corals and are not likely to survive in most home aquariums.
Low water flow and low to medium lighting with a higher nutrient load seems to work best for these corals. Daily feedings of phytoplankton are recommended and live phyto such as DT's is preferred over prepared formulas.>
Best,
<Ditto. James (Salty Dog)>
Eric

Porites trouble 2/25/11
3 weeks ago I added a branching Porites coral to my tank and it was doing great with full polyp extension. Two days ago I replaced one of my actinic bulbs and the coral no longer has any polyp extension.
<Likely a coincidence>
This is the only coral in my tank that reacted like this and I didn't think changing 1 actinic would cause a coral to go into light shock. Do you think this is related to the light or am I looking for some other type of problem?
<Other>
I currently run two 150 watt HQI 14K Ushio's supplemented by 2 power compact actinics. I change roughly 5 gallons every 3 days. Current parameters are as follows.
PH- 8.1 in the morning and tops out 8.36 at night
<Higher at night... interesting>
Alk- 8.5 DKH
Cal- 400
<Mg?>
SG- 35 PPT
I am using a Kalk reactor to keep these levels stable. I also observed the coral to see if there was anything irritating it and could not see anything. All my fish are actually being treated for an Ick outbreak in a
separate quarantine tank so I can rule out the fish.
<But less food, due to their not being fed in with the corals>
The only other thing I can think of is some type of chemical reaction with a star polyp colony which located behind the coral.
<Possible>
Just seems like to much of a coincidence this occurred as soon as the bulb was switched. Would you wait another few days or so before taking any further actions such as moving the coral to another area?
<I would wait>
Thanks,
Eric
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Porites trouble, and fdg. 2/26/11
Thanks Bob for the quick response. My mg is at 1250. A little low but just enough to keep my parameters where I try to keep them.
<Is fine>
Since I have no fish in the tank I have been feeding my tank a combination of Brightwell Phytochrome and rotifers twice a week.
<Mmm, not really useful>
Now that I think of it I fed the tank the day before the coral closed?
<Perhaps...>
Wonder it the food caused the coral closed. Kinda of like a full belly?
<Kind of like toxic. BobF>

Goniopora/Health 6/8/10 Hi Bob and crew, <Hello Blesson> First of pls tell me if this specimen of Goniopora is bleached or healthy. <Bleached.> I know I know you advice <advise> against keeping this species but its been with me for the past year and a bit more. So figured I had been doing something right. And also do help me identify this specimen. I was thinking it could be a G. stokesii. <Likely so, and is a difficult coral to keep long term. Goniopora have a history of failing to survive in captive systems often going into a slow demise for no apparent reason. Part of the problem may be food, as recent research suggests phytoplankton and small zooplankton make up almost half of their food source because the energy provided by photosynthesis is not adequate for their daily energy needs (Borneman).> On a side note do advice <advise> regarding this selection of corals I have come up with, 1 green Montipora, 1 blue tipped Acropora, 1 blue Xenia and 1 Pineapple Brain coral. Will the Goni be too harsh with the Acros n Monti in terms of allelopathy? <A healthy Goni is high on the allelopathy list and plenty of room should be provided between this species and others.> And is the Xenia ok in this combo? <Given enough space between other corals, especially softies, yes.> All these corals will be housed in a 30 g DT with a 15g sump containing @DSB. <Much better to keep difficult corals in a larger volume of water.> Picture of Goniopora attached. <I see, and not to send gif files. Too time consuming to copy the photo to a photo editor and convert to jpeg. My, and likely other crewmembers default photo programs will not open gif files.> Thank you for all that you guys do. Couldn't 've <?> gotten this far with my mini reef if it weren't for you guys and all the precious FAQs. cheers, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Blesson

Re Goniopora/Health 6/8/10 - 6/9/10 Hi James, <Blesson> Regarding the bleached specimen of Goni, is there any hope for this coral ? I mean can it get its colour back? <Highly unlikely but doesn't hurt trying. May want to try daily feedings of phytoplankton. You didn't mention your lighting system, these guys need intense lighting in the form of MH or HO T5's.> And how do I go about this specimen ? euthanise it ? trade it off ? <Good luck finding any takers for it.> It is still very much alive with polyp extension and everything. <A ray of hope exists.> And regarding the selection of corals for my tank, you advised against keeping the delicate stonies in a small capacity tank such as mine ... any suggestions as to what I can keep here ? <I say that because it's difficult to maintain steady water parameters in smaller systems. Best to look on etailer sites, most will advise the care level. Easy to medium species would be good choices providing you can meet the light requirements.> I do not like soft corals, and am pretty much bored of LPS ... Also what type of Allelopathy do Gonis and Xenia exhibit ? Chemical or physical like nematocysts ? <Healthy Gonis will shoot out sweeper tentacles, usually in the evening. These tentacles can be very potent to nearby life. What I meant was to give the Xenia's distance between the colony and the Goni. Xenia's are rather peaceful as far as allelopathy.> I apologise for any inconvenience my picture caused you but I just double checked and I did send you a picture of the JPEG format. You said I sent you one of GIF format. <There were a couple listed as gif, but since it now appears you only sent one pic, I'm thinking you may be using some type of stationery and/or signature in your email format that is a gif file. No problem.> Anyways thanks for your time and patience, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Blesson Re Goniopora/Health 6/8/10 - 6/9/10 - 6/11/10 Hi James, <Blesson> Sorry for pestering you so much. <Not a problem.> Well re: your question bout my lighting, I use a 150W double ended 14k MH. And as for my tank I am keeping things pretty stable through regular maintenance, in terms of sp gr kept constant at 1.026, no Ammonia and Nitrites, Nitrates at 10-15, <A little on the high side for a reef tank.> zero Phosphates, temp is a little bit high at 28c, calcium at 420ppm, magnesium at 1300ppm. Alk is at 9 dKH. Is this stable enough to keep at least a Monti? <As long as those parameters are relatively stable.> I figure it shall be at my own risk. On an unrelated note, is dosing Magnesium chloride a safe source of Mg? I mean will there be chloride ion accumulation enough to be harmful? <If you are referring to the product used as a de-icing agent, no, I would not use, not refined enough in my opinion.> And yes I finally did get a mg test kit after YOU told me it is important in a mail bout Coralline algae many months before. Once again thank you so much for your help. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Cheers, Blesson

Goniopora Worms -- 5/26/09
All,
<Hello, Lynn here this afternoon.>
I have searched and searched but I am not finding anything on this. I apologize for the stupid question.
<Not to worry, we're here to help. Besides, trust me - this is not a stupid question. Now if you'd asked me if it was a good idea to clean the walls of a glass tank with a hammer and chisel -- that would have been a stupid question! This is not!>
I have a Goniopora Flower Pot Coral.
<Ok>
I noticed today that there are at least two long, thin, striped looking worms on it.
<Hmmm, do the stripes run the length of the body or do they wrap around the body like bands?>
Do I need to be concerned?
<I doubt it. If the stripes are actually bands around what looks like a worm body, you might be seeing a harmless mini brittle star/Ophiuroid. Take a look at the examples at the following links and see if anything looks familiar. By the way, it's very common to see just one or two arms sticking out of the rock/coral and none of the central disk: http://www.melevsreef.com/id/baby_brittles.html
More examples here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brittlestaridfaqs.htm >
I did try and remove one, but as soon as I touch anything with my tongs is closes up and I can no longer see the worms.
<Yep, it's an unfortunate reality that aquatic critters seem have a universal fear of tongs. It's like a cat and a vacuum cleaner -- when the vacuum approacheth, the cat taketh offeth! <G> By the way, if what you're seeing is not a brittle star, do try to get a photo of it - possibly through the tank glass since capture would be such a challenge. Like I said, I sincerely doubt that it's anything to be concerned about but if you'd like to pursue an ID, it would be the next step.>
I am looking forward to any assistance you can provide.
<Just let us know if we can be of any more assistance. Take care, LynnZ>

Re: Goniopora Worms: Possible Mini-Brittle Stars - 5/26/09
Lynn,
<Hi!>
It is banded around the body like bands.
<Ok, good>
I did see some on the links that look very familiar. A bit hard to tell in that my flower pot seems very healthy and active and hard to see the worm down at the base when it is almost the same color as the coral itself - an off white/pearl color. This would appear to be harmless - wouldn't you think?
<I would think so, since you haven't noticed any signs of damage or stress. The most common hitchhiking mini-stars appear in colors ranging from a solid white/off-white to light gray, or combinations of one of those colors and bands in shades of gray or a salmon/pinkish color. These stars are very common, harmless, beneficial, and stay small.>
I don't believe my camera would pick up a picture, but I could try if you think it is necessary.
<Nah, as long as the coral's doing fine, I wouldn't worry about it. Just keep an eye out, like you would any other corals/livestock.>
I never see it leave that coral and the coral seems happy, just wanted to know if I needed to worry!
<Nope, I wouldn't worry. Most of the things that hitchhike into our tanks are beneficial or at least fairly innocuous, so chances are this is just one more example.>
Thanks Again!
<It was a pleasure! Take care, LynnZ>

Hank needs Help! Env., iatrogenic reef dis... Goniopora hlth. 01/23/09 Hi! I sent the e-mail below a couple weeks ago and didn't receive an answer. <Huh, I couldn't find any answer posted either. Sorry about that!> I'm sorry to send it again, I know you guys are busy, but out friend Hank needs help! I appreciate any of your time you can spare!!! Thanks!!! Hi!!!! I love your web site!!!! I looked and looked for a related answer to my question and apologize if I overlooked it! Okay, so here are my tank specs and a picture of Hank our tank: http://img510.imageshack.us/my.php?image=adulthankxt9.jpg 55 Gallon SW / 100 lbs of live rock / FILTERS: max jet 120 & Marineland multi 260 / LIGHTING: Corallife 48 inch LIVESTOCK: Pink Carnation / 2 Clavularia Clove Polyps / 1 Leather polyp / Ritteri Anemone / 5 mushrooms (4 green, 1 purple) / Tree Coral FISH 9 Green Chromis /: Lg Cardinal / 2 Bangal Cardinals / 2 Percula Clownfish / Mandarin Goby / Black White Blenny / Sea Cucumber / 2 Starfish / Emerald Crabs / 2 peppermint Shrimp / Snails / Hermit crabs LEVELS: Temp 75-80F / Gravity 1.022 / pH: 8.2 / Ammonia: 0 / Nitrite: 0 / <Your salinity should be higher for your invertebrates (closer to 1.025 to 1.026).> Nitrate: 19PPM <This is way too high.> Okay, so my questions, A.) We have a Leather Polyp that seems to be in trouble. <All your inverts/corals are in trouble. Your salinity is too low and your nitrates are too high.> He use to stretch out and now he just stays stuck in his rock and never comes out more than a 1/2 inch (he use to stretch out to 3 inches sometimes! (although I admit, he would do that about 8 months ago and our tank has much more live rock in it now). Also, when we got him, the entire surface of his rock was covered with him and not he seems to be dying off because there are lines and holes in it. Also, there is a white soft almost transparent sponge/alga growing under him. Can you help? I don't know how to help him and its our favorite piece! I downloaded pics to Imageshack so I didn't have large attachments. http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?image=leathercd2.jpg <Whoa... this is NOT a leather coral! This is a Goniopora! A very, very different kind of coral altogether! Who told you this is a leather coral?!> http://img81.imageshack.us/my.php?image=leathernr0.jpg <The coral is bleached and dying. You need to start feeding this animal asap if it is to have any chance at all. Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/gonioporapix.htm http://www.asira.org/goniopora> And 2.) Also, we have white worms all over the tank. I believe its due to overfeeding (our neighbor fed our little guys while were out of town and I believe he over did it a little) Do you have any suggestions of an invert that will eat these little guys? <No need... please let the worms be. They're good for the tank and don't cause any harm. Chances are, their numbers will decrease in time anyway.> http://img81.imageshack.us/my.php?image=whitewormsed6.jpg Okay, sorry for the long e-mail. I know its probably easier if you know about the tank to answer. Thanks for any advice/help you can offer and for your time. I really appreciate it!! Happy New Year too!!!!! <And to you too, thank you.> Heather Brion on behalf of: Hank the Tank" <Keep reading/learning, Sara M.>

Re: Hank needs Help! 01/23/09 Hey Sara, Sorry to bother again. quick question, We have a QT that is unused at the moment as everyone is pretty healthy with the exception of our Goniopora. Would you suggest putting him in there to aid in him getting better? We also clearly need to get some frozen rotifers, oyster eggs, and Cyclop-eeze to feed him. I just don't want to have him competing for food while being nursed back to health if it will help. Penny for your thoughts?? <I would not move the coral. This will likely just cause it more stress. There are different ways you can target feed corals. One is to use some kind of inverted container over the coral during feeding (so that the fish don't steal the food). Some people use an inverted strawberry basket (the green plastic ones). You'll also want to turn off the circulation so that the food doesn't blow away. But don't over do it... remember you have to get your nitrates down too. Do you have a protein skimmer, carbon filtration?> oh! also, this is a pretty good site about this species specifically: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/nftt/index.php\<http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/nftt/index.php/> <Yep, that's a good one.> Thanks!!!!!!!!! many many thanks.... <Cheers, Sara M.>

Re: Hank needs Help! 01/23/09 not a protein skimmer. that is something we have to get. HAVE TO. We do have NitroMax Marine by Tropical Science <Ok, but this won't solve the problem in the long run...> that have a high density nitrifying bacteria and oxygenating bacteria booster that I can add until we get one..... <Do get a protein skimmer asap! Cheers, Sara M.>

Flower pot assistance (resent with corrections) -- 8/25/08 Hi guys, <Darr> I hope all is well with everyone... I was wondering if you could have a look at this photo and perhaps spot a potential problem for me? <Ooh, troubles> I purchased this flowerpot coral a few days ago. It's been really slow opening, but opens a little more each day. <Not likely for long...> The backside opens twice as much (only an inch or so in length), however the front side has some bald spots... I am guessing that maybe it was damaged when removed from the tank that I bought it from. Anyways, before turning my blue lights out for the night, I noticed this skin growing on an area of this bald spot. This growth on there... is this healing or is this disease? <Dying mostly sad to state> My other flowerpot is doing much better than this one in terms of appearance. It extends beautifully and my clown plays in it nonstop... thanks so much for your please help! <This specimen is "missing" polyps along its lower edge... is misplaced above the bottom... Needs each polyp remaining to be fed to survive... might well benefit from an Iodine-based remedy... You need to read, and soon: http://wetwebmedia.com/poritidhlthfaqs.htm and the linked files above... re Foods... System... Bob Fenner> Re: flower pot assistance (resent with corrections) -- 8/25/08 Thank you bob. <...> when you say misplaced above the bottom, do you mean it should live at the bottom of my tank in the sand? <... Please... read where you were referred to. B>

sps Birdsnest dying 6/18/08 My large Birdsnest sps is dying from the bottom up and is continuing daily. I have lost 2 other sps corals <What species?> in the last month and think I may be doing something wrong. I have a 75 gallon reef with 80lbs of live sand and 60lbs of live rock. The lighting is two 150 watt MH pendants with 14k bulbs. <How new? Do you have a PAR meter? Can you borrow one?> I have a rio 2100 <Mmm, not very reliable...> return using a 20 long as a sump to house heaters and skimmer. In the tank is a Koralia 4 circulation pump and I have a 29 gallon refugium that is next to my 75 pumping about 200gph constantly. <Good> My water parameters are fine except my calcium does fluctuate from 380-500. <Yikes! Why such a large range? How much Magnesium do you have?> I use SeaChem additives consisting of 8.4 buffer, ions, fuel, <?> and calcium. The Koralia 4 is pointed at the Birdsnest so I don't think it is due to current. There are mushrooms with in 2 inches <Oh!> of the Birdsnest, but will the sting of a mushroom kill the whole sps colony if it is only close to one of the branches? <Not necessarily> Please help me save this beautiful piece and give me any ideas as to what I can do whether is be fragging the dead or moving it altogether. Thanks Clint Shea <Please read on WWM re Cnidarian Compatibility, and get back with me re the questions above. Bob Fenner>

Pink Birdsnest algae growth 5/28/2008 I seem to be having a weird problem with my pink Birdsnest (Seriatopora hystrix). I'd first like to tell you that this is the ONLY sps that I am having a problem with. The Birdsnest keeps growing a brown algae on the branches. <Indicative of...> I usually manually remove it everyday, but this algae keeps coming back. <Something amiss....> Originally I thought it was a flow issue, so I moved the Birdsnest into more flow and the same problem keeps happening. The coral is still a rich pink and extends its polyps. I'd say it was a nutrient problem, but none of my other sps corals seem to be growing this algae and all are growing well. So any ideas on the issue of the algae growing Birdsnest would be most helpful. Another quick question, I have a cream Pagoda Cup that has not been polyping lately...the Birdsnest has always had the algae problem... the pagoda shows no signs of deterioration, and starts polyping but does not come out fully like it used to. Thanks for all the great advice. <with either the mix of species, their physical placement here. I would try a general "curative" containing iodine/ate... and read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm Bob Fenner> Re: Pink Birdsnest algae growth I'm not exactly sure what a "curative" is, <A treatment of some kind... a "medicine" if you will> could you explain this to me? Is it an addition of iodine/ate, or is it a dip? I currently use Lugol's solution for my iodine supplement. <A larger dose of this may be of use... Along with an free iodine test kit. As stated though... with the reported good health of other SPS, this is likely a case of allelopathy. RMF>

Flower Pot swollen 2/27/08 I have a green flower pot in my tank and it's been doing very well, I was originally told they were pretty easy to keep, <Yikes, no. If we're talking about Goniopora sp., they are not easy to keep. Please see lots of info available here: http://www.goniopora.org/> but today it's gotten swollen, the tentacles aren't reaching out, but it's just all puffy. The ammonia, nitrates and nitrites all test at zero, but I also just lost my Scopas tang, who was gilling at the bottom. The only other fish in my tank is a Mandarin fish, which I acquired today, and I have no idea what went wrong. The tank is an 8gallon nano, <Wow, those are probably two of the worst possible livestock choices for a nano tank. Please research your live stock purchases before you make them. Mandarin fish need at least 50lbs of well established live rock (and probably also a refugium) to get the live food they need to survive.> with a couple other little corals in it, the Scopas was just in there till our 50 gallon matures. He was only about 2 inches long. <Even 50g is probably too small a tank for a Scopas tang. Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/zebrasom.htm Best, Sara M.>

Goniopora....Good. and kicking.. Non-native speaker 2/26/07 Hi guys.. this is RX. I had been reading articles abt Gonioporas and how hard they can survive in captivity.. <Yes, generally lost w/in a month> but i really dun understand.. because i have been keeping it for a long time... and nothing has gone wrong so far...i nv moved it anywhere to prevent shock. it just keeps growing longer and fatter...it's so lovely... <Are fine if kept in "not-too-clean" circumstances, and left alone, fed...> i dun know why i manage to keep it. but i heard ppl saying that Iron and Mn are important for it... <Can be...> how true is this statement ? i know it's unfound because no one really experiment with keeping them without iron and Mn. <These are essential "micro-" nutrients... Are trouble if completely missing... or other chemical, physical conditions preclude their being absorbable> and it happens that my LFS sells Fe indicator and Iron-only supplement... should i buy it ? what level should Fe be at for salt water reef tank ?? <Mmm, please see WWM, the Net re... there is no simple, short answer... but generally not necessary to add these elements if using a decent salt mix, not having "out of balance" situations with other aspects of water quality...> btw, my water quality is at it's best. no ammonia and nitrite. getting another skimmer soon. I am doing extreme skimming.. i dun bother with nutrients because i have a DSB. i think it can supply the tank with nutrients.. and i uses all SeaChem products... <Good> in Singapore, we can get corals at low prices unlike u guys in America because we get supplies from Indonesia and Philips. <I have been to your country many times and agree> Phillips. supply are more expensive...we can get a hammer coral for US$10. but that's the price i get from the local fish farm...i dun get supply from LFS but from the farm... is the price relatively cheap compare from USA ?? <Oh yes> but on the other hand...we can't get things from Hawaii like u all... haha...it cost a bomb but corals are Indonesia and Phillips are pretty enough... :) <Yes... but unfortunately due to the same price/competition concerns, Singapore doesn't offer hardly any tank-bred animals... I have never seen tank-raised Clownfishes in your country...> make a trip to Singapore somedays...and u will find that some corals are in such a good condition that u can't believe it...i can bring u to the farm...:) <I thank you for this offer> a lot of articles highlight problem regarding shipping and blah blah blah.... but it doesn't happened here...except for diseases problems... because the locals dun know and dun practice coral dips...that's the problem... <Ah, yes... perhaps you can/will help them? Are you a member of the Sing. Reef Club? Bob Fenner>

Another Goniopora down 11/10/06 Hello all <Dray> I've had a bit of a problem with my Goniopora <Not easily kept...> and I was wondering whether ive done the right thing. It's a long story so ill start from the beginning. My kit: Trigon 190L corner tank 20w t6 blue and white tubes (soon upgrading to an ibar) Fluval 203 floor standing filter Juwel filter that came with the tank (400L) I think both filters are filled with pebble sub striate with 2inch sponge caps (to catch the gunk) that I change weekly <Good, necessary> Tunze 500L skimmer that ive got running at about 65% efficiency 90L/hour power head 300L/hour power head (plus what ever the filters put out 400? 203?) And about 25 kg.s of live rock Fish: 1x percula clown (had two but one had a fight with a pump and lost) 1x valentine puffer 2x scooter blennies 1x chalk (sleeper) goby 1x royal Gramma Inverts 1x cleaner shrimp 5x red leg hermits 8x turbo (pff slow ass) snails 4 or 5 half shell snails 1x crab (which I found today) looks like a clump of yellowy brown stuff but ran into a crack when I tried to remove it. COOOOOOLLLL!!!!!!!!!!! 1X toadstool 1x anemone <Not appropriately kept with...> 1x small frag of star polyps (green and growing) fast COOL!!! 1x red fingered gorgonian??? <Yikes...> 1x small frag of yellow stuff kind can't find the name <...> Ok that is that over with now with the story I was having a problem with my toadstool and for the life of me couldn't find the reason for its ailments. I checked your site, asked the guys down the LFS and other fs's until I met this Guy who was obviously god ,who asked me about 300 questions until he said do you have any fish that sit on more than one type of soft coral? <Good question> Hhmmmm yep! My saffron goby. His (coz that's what I call him) two favourite places are either on my Goniopora or on the toad stool. "god" said that he could be carrying stinging cells from the Goni to the shroom. So I got rid of him (back to the LFS) and the shroom is now back to its full bodied self. <Bingo> However, today I noticed that the Goni seemed to be receding on its rock and getting smaller, so, I thought ide move it. On touching "the rock" it was actually white rotting stuff black underneath. <Yeeikes> So ive chucked it in the Erald Flynn "bin" What was it, <Necrosis... the Flowerpot was dead, dying...> and did I do the right thing, and is there any thing else I should do to the water, incase of toxic build up or suchlike. I eagerly await your reply Ps would be able to reply to XXXX Many thanks WWM dray <Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/gonioporapix.htm and the linked files above, and the various files on the Compatibility of the other Cnidarians you list above... you have an incompatible mix going here... but not for long. Bob Fenner>

Re: Another Goniopora down - 11/10/06 Hi there bob Before I start I would like to say thanks for the reply (thanks) But some of your comments have got me worried. Specifically about the gorgonian (Diodogorgia spp) I've read that they may/do produce toxins but rarely pose a problem as this is a predatory defense. <Yes> was it the gorgo you were expressing concern about or the toadstool (please please please don't say both ) <... the two of them> and would it just be proximity or just that its in a 190L tank? Your advice is greatly appreciated Cheers Dray (UK) <Not just their nearness... can/do "reach" each other chemically... Covered on... WWM. Bob Fenner>

Porites lobata health - 03/12/2006 Sorry for the e-mail but my google searches, postings in a couple of reefer chat rooms and research in my textbooks have not helped me. I have red and green coralline algae encrusting on my Porites lobata. I fear the Porites is dying (dead already!). The commensal worms still seem in relatively good shape, although I do know they could stay "alive" for awhile, even though they are dying also. Any suggestions regarding placement, feeding or other that I could use to try to save the Porites? Water parameters are all good, consistent and my other corals and fish are doing (and have been) doing fine so no changes there. Thanks in advance for any help. <Joe, unfortunately these are some of the hardest corals to keep for any length of time. These corals require intense illumination and pristine water quality, and even at that, rarely survive more than a year. James (Salty Dog)> Peter Jones

Dying Flowerpot (4/26/05) Hey Guys, just a quick question about Flower Pot Corals. <aka Goniopora> I have one that is slowly dying and I showing about 1/3 of it's skeleton. <This is the fate of 95+% of Flowerpots. They are quite unsuitable for the vast majority of marine aquariums.> Any way of bringing it back to life? <Highly doubtful at this point.> I had some water quality issues, but now everything is back to normal. <While this may have hastened its fate, this likely would have happened eventually anyway.> If you know of any remedies, it would be greatly appreciated. <Do you have a refugium? It might help to put it in there. <Search Goniopora and flowerpot on WWM for ideas and discouragement from buying another.> P.S. Thanks Bob for the info on California Rays. I dropped the temperature in my tank and now he's acting normal. <Glad to hear, Bob is always a great help. It's an honor to help him in this endeavor.> Dan, Salt Lake City <Steve Allen, Taylorsville.> Coco Worm & Goniopora Hello, <James here> I have a 30 gallon reef tank, four fish, and an assortment of hardy corals (clove polyps, mushrooms, open/closed brains, yellow Fiji leather) and recently acquired a Goniopora/green fluorescent buds with pink stem. I know, all but impossible to sustain these corals, however it was a gift, and cannot be returned. It's been doing okay for the last 3-4 wks., and recently my maroon clown began embedding itself in it constantly which is awesome to watch. However, the Gonio does not fully expand when I observe it, and the clown fish still tries to rub up against it often. Has the maroon disturbed this coral or does Gonio sometimes shrink up? Until now, their relationship seemed quite natural and healthy. <I'm thinking you may not have enough light for this coral, but if the clown is always in there, I don't believe the coral will fully bloom. It's a difficult question to answer 100% correctly being that the Gonio is going to need pristine water quality/lighting to show it's true form to start with. You may want to do a Google search on the Wet Web, keyword, Goniopora or flower pot corals, and read about them.> I also acquired a coco worm which I read has the reputation of being fairly easy to keep. Plus I have a feather duster which has always done well (although I know these are 2 different invertebrates). However, the coco worm usually does not bloom and stays in its tube. It has just approached the surface of the rim a handful of times and doesn't even come out when I feed the tank Cyclop-Eeze or DT's phytoplankton. I know it's a timid creature that is easily frightened by passerby fish as I've been witnessing, but with a 30 gall tank and 4 fish, there is really not a spot I can put this coco worm without fish swimming by. Any suggestions or should I just give it more time? I've had the coco worm for about 4 days now. <The coco worm is probably coming out in the evening when the activity is minimal. You might want to feed at that time and observe. James (Salty Dog)>

Another dying Goniopora 3/23/04 Hello Everybody <cheers> My Goniopora coral started getting this translucent brown film over it and it has been covering the piece more and more each day. I sent a poor picture of it and I hope you can make out what's going on. Is this coral dying and if so what could of caused this to kill this piece? <this is how most Goniopora end up within weeks/months of import... they die in most tanks and really should not be collected/purchased (by you/us being educated consumers and denying them at retailers)> thank you Kirt Joseph <please do a keyword search with the google search tool on our website/home page at wetwebmedia.com you will find numerous FAQs and other information on this sad topic for perspective. Please do buy/use a proper QT tank to isolate this sick coral... and be sure to employ quarantine for all new fish, coral, rocks, etc in the future. It is critical for your success and their lives. I cannot emphasize this point strongly enough. Read more on QT in the archives... some excellent and recent articles by Scott Fellman, et al. Anthony>

Sick Goniopora Hello guys and girls I emailed a very poor picture of some sick Goniopora. It had a brown translucent covering all over it. It started out on one corner of the piece and quickly spread over the entire piece. I took the piece out of the tank to wash away the brown covering and it disintegrated in the tank. I did manage to wash some of it away in a bowl filled with the tanks water and put it back in the tank. much of the piece looks dead and had a little foul odor after I cleaned it smelled ok and it looks like there are some tubes trying to blossom. Will this piece come back? I included the best picture I have of it. I have included a picture of the piece after I cleaned it and it is Jpeg 014 it shows it on top to the left of the bubble. Will this fragmented crap floating around in my tank effect the other corals, worms, polyps? I also included JPEG 008 that shows what looks like hair algae (red) growing on a rock can you identify and tell me if this is bad stuff and how to get rid of it if it is bad? Thanks Kirt Joseph <please send only downsized images to friends/folks like us as a courtesy to our mailboxes, my friend. These images are huge and clog mail space for other folks in need. As per your query... there is much information in our archives on this subject... please do take the time to read and do keyword searches to focus on your topic of interest. Go to the index page wetwebmedia.com and type in search words/phrases at the bottom of the page in the google search tool like "sick Goniopora", "infection", "brown jelly" [the infection you have], "Goniopora", etc. kindly, Anthony>

Sick Coral - Help I have a large green Goniopora? (flower pot coral) that is covered in brown goo in several spots....disease? <yikes... a highly infectious condition> I was told to dip the coral in a partial hydrogen peroxide dip and watch the goo bubble away and hope for the best. Is this wise or just toss the coral? <perhaps helpful, as are iodine dips and freshwater baths. Still... the coral is not likely to survive this aggressive infection. And you really do need to understand, appreciate and use a quarantine tank to put all new corals, fishes and other critters in first before adding them to the display... and to use at times such as this. The infection you are observing can easily spread to healthy coral in the tank and take a heavy toll. I'd hate to see you learn about the importance of QT tanks this way. Please do read up more on this ASAP. Anthony>

Goniopora Ailment 4/12/04 Hello folks and thank you for taking the time to perhaps help me. I have a Goniopora stokesii, that has been in my tank for about six months and seemed to be doing well. <they are free-living species and need to be on the sand bottom. If they are placed unnaturally on rock (like folks regrettably sometimes do with Trachyphyllia open brains) they seem to suffer in time (lack of micronutrients from substrate, abrasion from polyp cycles on rock, etc?). Most will go about 6 months on rocks ;)> The problem is that when the lights are out and the polyps are retracted I have noticed that there is an area of missing polyps. I first noticed this about three weeks ago but as the area was very small and the coral expands beautifully I felt the coral was in no real danger. Over the last three weeks, however, the area of lost polyps is becoming larger. The rest of the animal opens very well, so well in fact that you can only see the damaged area after the polyps are retracted. There is never any 'jelly' infection and no slough tissue. Might there be something that would eat the polyps and section at a time? <yes, but just as likely could be an injury from a fish or invertebrate that nipped it... expanding now> The coral is in a 125 gallon SPS aquarium that is lit by 250 watt metal halides. It receives moderate to strong flow and as I said the rest of the coral opens completely and covers the damage. My water conditions are as follows: NH3, NO2, and PO4 are all zero as per Salifert tests. <do allow some nitrates for good coral health/color. About 5 ppm is fine> Calcium is around 450 ppm, pH ranges from 8.1-8.2, and alkalinity is 2.5 meq/l. <your Alkalinity is flat because the Ca is so high (not needed). Do consider allowing the Ca/Alk dynamic to be more even keeled. 8-12 dKH for ALK and no more than 420ppm Ca (350-420). Neither should be at the high end of either range at the same time (no worries)> There are sally Lightfoots, red leg hermits, two camel shrimp and an arrow crab. <none of the above are truly reef safe. All are cited as nipping coral... the sally lightfoot in particular. Read about it in the archives FAQS> The only fish are two lawnmower blennies and a Scopas tang. <no trouble here likely> Any insight you might be able to offer or any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you again. Matt Hall <best regards, Anthony>

Purple band disease Porites 10/2/04 Dear WetWebMedia Crew: Is there anything that can be done for a Porites with purple band disease? The reading I've done only says stress or injury can cause it and that it is common in Porites.......no mention of what to do for the coral once it gets the disease or whether or not it can spread to other corals. Both I and the local fish store owner here are anxious to learn more about this disease........any help you can give is much appreciated. Janey <I am not aware of any definitive treatment... but folks have tried with variable success a number of standard treatments. I feel that some can help. Starting with isolation in a bare bottomed QT tank... the application of ozone via a controller (target a conservative 350-400 mV). Topical swabs of the afflicted area/band may be effective too (iodine based meds). Short baths in antibiotics are du jour in kind: Nitrofurazone is a common drug of choice. Its all rather experimental. Please do share your results/experiences. Kindly, Anthony> Brown Jelly infection on Gonio I think that my Goni might have brown jelly disease, there is a kind of orange film developing on some of the polyps, how do I get rid of this infectious disease and save my Gonio? <this secondary barrage of infectious pathogens known as "Brown Jelly" is highly infectious and so virulent that odds are not good at all of saving the specimen. You will be lucky if it doesn't kill other corals in the tank too (healthy established ones too!). This is just one of the many reasons why it is so critical to quarantine all livestock for a full 4 weeks before adding them to a display. Besides having a better chance to save the new guy, there is always the risk of infecting some/all of the established animals. My advice is to capture this coral underwater with a large plastic bowl and lid (the coral is to be moved slowly and sealed in the bowl underwater) to reduce the chance of drifting infected tissue through the water. If any pieces do float away... siphon them out promptly... it is highly infectious to other corals. Treatments to date are highly experimental with antibiotics, FW dips and iodine spikes. I honestly don't think the coral will be alive 48 hours from now, I hate to say, but do consult Eric Borneman's Aquarium Corals book for an extensive range of options. My advice is a 60 second shower under cold tap water (seriously) before placing it in QT. Maintain vigorous circulation and aeration in QT as well. Best regards, Anthony>

Goniopora and brown jelly (protozoan) infection? Hey Anthony, The good thing is that I don't have any other corals in my tank, <a good thing> I was coaxed into buying this Goni as my first coral by my local LFS. <wow... if they are receptive, willing to learn... please suggest that they browse and use our free resource/database for themselves and their customers. Promoting success in the hobby is out mutual goal. Also suggest that they buy either of Eric Borneman's coral books for a quick reference to not make such a terrible mistake again> My coral doesn't have much brown jelly on it and I am thinking that it might just be decay of the slowly dying coral. <agreed... simply decay. "Brown Jelly" is wickedly virulent... you can literally watch flesh fall away over a period of hours.> Thanks for all the help involving my Goni. <best regards, Anthony>

Goniopora health, feeding Merry Christmas Eve Crew, <and to you as well my friend> I have a few questions that I am having problems with. 1)I feed my Goniopora phytoplankton but I was wondering what else I should feed it to ensure its survival for more than a year, <placement on a deep sand bed or in a refugium with a deep sand be has proven to be invaluable! Also, some seagrasses in the system for natural phyto and epiphytic matter seems to be helpful> 2)My three spot damsel is trying to make the Goniopora its home but I don't want it to because when it rubs against the coral, it retracts, is there anything I can do to discourage this behavior? <no clowns or damsels in the display at all with the Gonio... it will kill the coral within months likely> 3)I brought it in pretty bad condition (i.e. exposed skeleton), what can I do to try and help the coral or is it too late? <definitely not too late... but will be slow to heal. No worries... good water quality is enough. The fishless refugium and deep sand bed are also crucial> 4)Does it need to be near macroalgae, if so, where can I find some? Thank You, Lucky Ly <not any/all macroalgae... some like Caulerpa and perhaps Sargassum may be noxious or harmful. Look for Gracilaria, Chaetomorpha and calcareous species like Halimeda & Udotea... better yet seagrasses if you have a deep sand bed (Thalassia or Syringodium). Numerous places on the web sell these plants. What big city are you near? Perhaps there is a local club you can trade samples from (look at our links and the lists on message boards like reefcentral.com for aquarium society listings). If nothing else... look up www.ipsf.com for Gracilaria algae. Best regards, Anthony>

Sunflower Pot Hi Everyone, Nice to be back again, and have quick question. I think there's something wrong with my sunflower pot, it hasn't come out fully extended this past week. <If this is a Goniopora sp., it was pretty much doomed from the get-go. Most of the species collected rarely survive past 8-10 months.> This morning, there's this film covering it (like it is inside this bubble). What is this slimy film covering my flower pot? Will this kill it? <Sounds like it's already dead. Pick it up out of the water (carefully, the tissue may start pouring off) and give it a sniff. If it stinks, toss it. If by now it's really gross looking, you should siphon off all the spooge before handling it. It would also be good measure to do a water change.> Shall I remove it? Help! Water parameters: Am=0, rite=0, rate=20 and pH=8.2. <Water's fine, although you should work on the nitrate. No where near toxic at this level> Regards and Thank you, <Good luck! -Kevin> Felix

Goniopora newbie 5/3/03 HELLO ALL, WAS HOPING YOU COULD GIVE ME SOME ADVICE ON CARING FOR A GONIOPORA CORAL. I HAVE ONLY HAD IT A SHORT WHILE, ABOUT A MONTH, BUT SEEMS TO BE FAILING.. WOULD REALLY LOVE TO HELP IT IF POSSIBLE IN ANY WAY. WATER CHEMISTRY SEEMS GOOD, ALSO SINCE REEF SYSTEM IS NEW TO ME, WAS WONDERING ABOUT ADVICE ON RECOMMENDED SUPPLEMENTS OR THINGS THAT SHOULD BE ADDED TO REEF SYSTEM REGALLY. MAY SEEM LIKE A DUMB QUESTION, BUT, I HAVE LEARNED EACH TIME I GO TO A SEMINAR OR READ A BOOK I HEAR SOMETHING DIFFERENT AND AM NOT AT ALL SURE NOW <cheers, my friend. Thanks for writing in. Alas... the problems with you or anybody keeping Goniopora cannot be summarized in the short breadth of an e-mail... at least not for attempts at keeping them successfully. The truth of the matter is that they are very difficult to keep alive, and very few people should buy them if the intent is to be a conscientious aquarist. It really is shameful that merchants sell these/any corals/animals to aquarists without any information or guidance. Yet some would say (I would!) that the responsibility really is upon you/the consumer to gather information and be educated about an animals needs before bringing it home. It boggles my mind that anyone could bring an animal into their care without knowing its needs or if they can even meet them! My advice to you presently for this coral is to begin with the basics... read about Goniopora in Eric Borneman's Aquarium Corals book... or my Book of Coral Propagation... and of course, you can/should do some keyword searches on an engine like www.google.com with phrases including "Goniopora" "lobata" Stokesii" "care" "aquarium" combinations. The truth of the matter is that yours will likely die within weeks/months like most imported. The trade/hobby does not even know clearly what it is they eat or how we can keep them successfully long-term yet. I wish I had better news to share with you. FWIW... success with keeping Goniopora has been tied to maintenance in aquarium with very deep live sand beds (6" or more) that are over one year old. Best regards, Anthony>

Porites Acclimation Bob or Anthony, <Greetings fellow reefer... that is to say, one who favors reefs and not "reefer" per se...hehehe. Anthony> I really do appreciate what you guys are doing for the hobby. I had a quick question, I recently bought a yellow Porites, I had read that Porites did better under brighter light, such as halide, than under dimmer lit situations. <True for most, yes...but not all. Also dependant on condition of import. Shallow species under duress will still need to begin acclimation on tank bottom or like subdued lighting before full on halides. Colored Porites such as your yellow one are indeed likely to favor extremes of light AND water movement> I placed it under power compacts and VHO part of the tank, the tips began to get a little brown or green growth (algae, even though I have no algae what so ever in the tank), I moved the Porites under the halide, and it became even more pronounced. Should I try the very bottom corner of the tank? <yes, simply a stressed animal. And it may take some time to recover. Don't worry about likely color changes (to brown or green)... we'll recover them later. Let's stabilize tissue first> My water parameters are all in line (I lost xenia, tips of hands turned white, then the whole arm vanished (I have a Singapore angel?)), <that will do it <smile>> I dose the tank the GARF way, across, clams, Turbinaria, Montipora all doing well. I have read that Porites may suffer some loss, but its not like an Acro where you lose the whole animal. <agreed> Thanks, Tom <quite welcome, sir. Have faith. Anthony>

Clownfish & Goniopora Doing Poorly Hello Robert, <You reached Steven Pro working his shift today. Anthony Calfo and I are filling in for Bob for the time being.> Whenever I have a problem that I cannot figure out I know who to ask, your the man. My female clown has been sick on/off for about a year, mostly off, but when she does get sick it's always the same physical signs. Common features include split tail, discolored spots around body, white mucus around gills. Not all signs appear at the same time, but one or two together are common. I have researched your website, and have found the best thing to do is to wait to see how she reacts and wait, so that's what I do, but how long can she go through bouts of sickness and remain alive in my tank. Also, she is paired with a male and they both share a home together (long tentacle anemone) and I have never noticed the male with any signs of disease, nor the 6 other fish in my reef tank. What does she have? What should I do? <This sounds more like an environmental factor or some reaction to aggression, than an infectious disease. I would look for changes in water quality that correspond with the symptoms showing up.> Last question. My two flower pot corals have both been closed, sometimes showing signs of opening, but they never open to their full capability that they showed the first month or two when introduced in my tank. I have moved them away from the light, but their isn't much room in my 40 gallon. What do you suggest? <I have no suggestion for you. Your corals will be dead shortly. Goniopora are one of the most commonly imported corals into America and they almost always die, 99% mortality in less than one year. They live long enough for the hobbyists' to falsely believe they are doing OK before they taper off. I do not mean to seem so callous, but it is a commonly known fact with this coral. One suggestion I have for you is to go get and read Eric Borneman's "Aquarium Corals". This should help educate you for your future purchases. -Steven Pro> Thanks again, Jason

Aggression as the Cause of Mysterious Ailments Thanks for the coral advice, I figured something was up. I think the aggression might be the cause of the Clowns physical behavior, whenever I move anything in the tank or the anemone moves to a new spot she gets sick. <Also, do make your hands are clean and free from soap, hand creams, after shave, etc.> Thanks for figuring it out. You guys are good. I need to get some got reference books to learn more. Jason

Re: Goniopora Anthony, Over the weekend, the Goni showed a moderate decline. When I got home from work last night, my tank smelled like death. all my snails and my starfish were dead. The Goni had died, and apparently taken a bunch with it. <very sorry to hear it... save a dead snail carcass for the salesclerk that sold you the Gonio > Of course I removed all the dead stuff immediately, prying snails from my hermit crabs. I tested ammonia and nitrites. The nitrites were at about 2.0, and the ammonia test kit had gone bad. I dumped the quart of skimmate that was produced in a day, and dusted off my 2 cheapo-skimmers and set them up. I also added about 8 oz carbon to the system. <all excellent moves!> Then, over the next few hours, I began noticing more death on my LR. 8" worms that I had never seen before hanging out of their holes dead. <Houston...we have a problem> I didn't see any of my 'pods moving, so I stirred up the substrate, to see many, many dead inverts floating around - some the size of small dogs. I was up till the wee hours cleaning filters, et al. My tang showed serious signs of stress, swimming erratically and inadvertently scratching his side pretty good during his conniption fit. <simply corrupt water chemistry at this point> I didn't have salt water ready to go, so I mixed up 20 gallons and will change that tonight. Overnight, the 3 skimmers produced about 16 oz of thick, chunky slime. <yummy> This morning the fishiest seemed surprisingly normal. <they are stoned on ammonia...heheh> Any suggestions on what to do to help stabilize? <simply water changes and the good skimming/carbon that you have been. It will correct very soon and the LR will bounce back. Again...sorry to hear it> Thanks, Daron <kind regards, Anthony>

Re: Goniopora Hi Anthony, <Cheers again!> I got another kit and tested my ammonia last night, 'only' 2.0. I changed 20g and 2 of my 3 skimmers are slowing in production - wow, I can really tell the difference in quality between them. <it is amazing...folks often assume that if a skimmer isn't producing that it means there is little to skim... sometimes it is just the skimmer. Glad to hear you've got a good one at least> It's sad. I spent the last month worrying about calcium and buffering getting ready for my first coral... all of a sudden I'm back to a cycling tank... <disappointing bit a temporary delay. A learning experience at that> My Caulerpa seems fine. I'm a concerned that it will die as did all my green microalgae. I'm keeping a close eye on it. The main reason for this email is my p. volitans. I don't know if this injury is environmental or as a result of him wigging out and swimming into something, I assume the latter. His nose looks like someone cut it open with a scalpel. It's split open and swollen. Also, he only ate 1 small krill last night, and spit it out a few minutes later. <can and may go without food for a while...no worries. They are tough> I fear that if it is a physical injury, that the noxious water will do much damage to his immune system, and he won't be able to stave off infection. <a valid concern...hence the importance of having a quarantine tank> I WAS building a reef, but I recently acquired a FO tank... heheh. <do consider removing the lion to a quite little hospital tank with broad spectrum antibiotics if necessary> Thanks so much for your help. If it wasn't for you WWM guys, I wouldn't know what to do. This is the most depressing thing I've done to myself since I walked down the aisle. Daron <I most likely would have advised you to do that too... a beautiful thing. Anthony>

Re: Goniopora II Actually, yes - I plan to do my best with keeping this poor thing, so anything that is within my recently-divorced budget, I will try. I could set up a refugium - right now, I have a sump with Caulerpa and live sand. It is green (the coral, not the sand). <excellent... just in time for St Patrick's day. Let it have a pint of Guinness on me> To get a picture of what I might be getting myself into, How big, how much water movement, and how much light would I need in this refugium? What "other individuals" would I place there? <in a perfect world: yank the Caulerpa, establish Thalassia sp Seagrass (no problems with going vegetative or inhibiting coral growth like Caulerpa), put bright daylight (and some window light if possible) colored lamps (6500-10K but no higher) and you might even experiment judiciously with DT's phytoplankton (more about proper dosing if you do), and keep on a very deep fine bed of sand (needed for microfauna and Seagrass... around 5-6" sugar fine aragonite> I do plan on eventually 'graduating' into your coral propagation book - I have been looking in stores for a copy to thumb through, but now that I think about it - asking you might be a little more 'to the point.' Is it a good resource for coral beginners, also? <if I may say so...yes. In fact, the first 200 pages of the book are fundamental reef keeping in plain language...no Latin or coral propagating until the last 250 pages <wink>> Thanks. And thanks for reminding me of that autographed Terry Bradshaw poster I had in my bedroom when I was a kid! <yes... back when the man had pride. Now look at him...those cheesy commercials are even too tacky for me, and I am a tacky guy! Hehe... kindly, Anthony>

Goniopora Flower Pot Problem I have had both a green short tentacle flower pot and a large long tentacle flower pot coral for about 4 months now. They have been doing great up until 2 days ago. They have recently begun to shrink and are not opening fully. I have not noticed any recession in the tissue from the skeleton but they just are not expanding like they used to. All of my water parameters are fine except my nitrates which are extremely high (80+ ppm) which I am trying to bring down slowly with water changes and the addition of Caulerpa algae. I believe the nitrate spike occurred when I replace the filter media in my wet/dry. I am assuming that the algae that was growing on this was also using up some of the nitrates. The thing that concerns me is that my other corals are all fine and thriving (Xenia, Huge Leather, many types of star polyps, button polyps, gorgonian, small green anchor coral, cabbage coral, and some corals encrusted to my live rock). From your site I have gathered that the flower pots need less that normal conditions with high nutrient which I believe my tank has with the high nitrates. I currently only dose with Kalkwasser and no other additives. I feed about once every two weeks with a spray of plankton across the whole tank. My lighting is 3+ watts per gallon in my 55 gallon tank. Any ideas or additives that might help. Thanks <Nothing much for me to say or for you to do at this point. Goniopora have a well established history of perishing in captivity. I would suggest you stay away from this coral for the time being until its captive husbandry requirements are discovered. -Steven Pro>

What is up with my little flower pot? My Goniopora has been captive in my system for 7 months and very happy might I say opens very full everyday, And grows like a weed! <Did you actually see an increase in calcification (skeleton) or merely bigger polyp extension?> My question is last 3 days he is closed shut and I see little flower heads lying on the sand bed? Is my FP sowing his seeds or kicking the bucket? <Sounds more like the latter.> I have looked for the answer to no avail. <Any of the books by Sprung, Delbeek, or Borneman discusses this coral and its typical pattern of dying in a system after six months to a year in captivity. Our own FAQ file on LPS has several Q&A's about Goniopora and there historically dismal track record. All on needs to do is a Google search of WWM at the bottom of the main page to find what you are looking for. -Steven Pro> Thanks again in advance almighty gurus!!!

Help! Has my Goniopora sp contaminated my tank Hello Bob <Anthony Calfo here sending cheers from across the pond!> I have kept a 5ft FOWLR tank (approx 65 gals actual water content, loads of LR) for the past 16 months . I then decided to set up another 5 ft (approx 80 gals, less LR but still a good amount for now) tank for inverts and a few small fish, 5 in all. The params that I check are Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate under 20 pH 8.4 or just above. <yes... all very well> I intend to check calcium and phosphate when I get the kits but I do treat the tank with calcium, iodine, strontium and invert food all according to bottle instructions. <hmmm... you add calcium but what about buffer? Calcifying organisms need a supply of Calcium and Carbonate (ALK/buffer) to form aragonite/calcium carbonate skeletons> Here comes the familiar bit (I've been reading your web site ). I bought a Goniopora sp , a green one and did everything wrong I now think. i.e. I moved it about to find a spot it liked and then after I sorted that and it started opening about 3 inches in length (It looked lovely) I decided maybe it might like more light so I added two reflectors one on the HO fluorescent nearest to it and one on the actinic blue. The other HO which makes up my lighting I left alone. The next day, the flower pot started emitting this strange brown grungy stuff that floated and swirled around it , I brushed it gently away but it came back with a vengeance through the night. <AKA brown jelly... a common necrotic condition with Goniopora among other scleractinian> My LFS said it was either expelling its mucus which they apparently do or it was dying. <Goniopora do not expel visible mucus... the animal was clearly dying> I gave it a fresh water dip as they suggested and put it back in its place in the tank. <no qualms here... it is a virulent condition that must be addressed swiftly. Iodine baths too may help in the future> I noticed that it looked like all the little flower tentacle places were empty like a white honeycomb , only a small part of the top was still green. This happened in two day's would you believe! <I have seen it many times... a highly infectious condition. Even the basting or blasting away of tissue in the tank is dangerous... if/when the infected tissue drifts and settles on another coral it can spread the infection. Tends to run its course fast though. Sick corals and fish should always be quarantined in a proper hospital tank for 4 weeks to prevent this very thing. You may very well learn a very hard lesson here, I'm afraid. Adding fish to any display without QT is a game of Russian roulette with living creatures. Please take heed and make your next investment in a simple QT tank instead. Do browse the FAQs here for plentiful tips on hardware and husbandry (crash course: bare glass bottom, conditioned sponge filter running and waiting in main display, plastic pipe or other sterlizable ornament, glass cover yes... but light dim perhaps, etc> I then saw that the rest of the tank was looking sickly to. My Leather Coral which had looked lovely is now unrecognizable and has whitish brown 'bad' places appearing on it <carve these necrotic areas out ASAP with a razor or scissors if there is to be any hope of salvaging pieces or the parent. Tank needs strong water flow, small frequent doses of iodine, aggressive skimming and extra water changes> and my mushroom corals and mushroom anemones also look sad. <not much to do with corallimorphs... must run its course short of above improved husbandry> Also my carpet anemone is screwed up most of the time but it still ate it's frozen (thawed out) fish two days ago. I have had this anemone for approx 6 weeks ,I now know you will say it is dyed because it is blue but one of my fish books say's you can sometimes get blue so I'm hoping this is it's real colour. <I agree that some natural blues occur... but my bigger concern is that it has absolutely no place in a reef tank. The size of this animal as it grows and more importantly the severity of its "invisible" warfare (allelopathy) on corals cannot be understated. This animal will likely plague you until it gets put into an appropriate species tank alone. Else, I fear you will go the way of hundreds of aquarists I have seen through the years... the tank may appear to fare well for 1 or even 2 years with it in residence... before the tank reaches a critical mass (concentrated noxious compounds or any one of a number of other complications). The tank will "crash" again> I'm afraid as the Goniopora was again smothered in this gunk I disposed of it like the LFS advised. <QT tank next time to try so save these living and precious resources... spare the animal and the display with good husbandry> Is my entire tank doomed, <not at all for the Goniopora reason... the infection will run its course within 2 weeks... likely sooner> what can I do to save the rest of the inhabitants which consist of 2 clowns,1 gramma,1 firefly and 1 red hawk fish, I also have 6 red legs,3 sally Lightfoots 1 cleaner shrimp and 6 turbo snails in this tank. I Know how fond you are of skimmers and I have them on both tanks, but don't ask what type is on the invert tank! <any type that produces a full cup of dark skimmate daily is a fine skimmer to me. Especially with the anemone you are keeping... critical> I hope it's o.k. to mail you from England but we don't have anything like your webpage here. <it is a great pleasure to hear from friends like you from all over the world!> I have discovered how little I know from you. Any help you could offer will be greatly appreciated. <no worries, my friend... we all learn in time. You will only be faulted for ignoring or not learning from your experience/mistakes> Many thanks for your help in advance. Jenny p.s. I'm mailing from work, I don't have my own e-mail set up yet and I had problems using netscapes e-mail facility, hope this is o.k. with you. <our pleasure... best regards in your endeavors. Please do continue to help yourself by researching animals before you buy them with an intelligent consensus from several sources... not just one/LFS. Kindly, Anthony Calfo> Jenny Nunley

Re: Help! Has my Goniopora sp contaminated my tank Hello again ! Thank you so much for your prompt reply to my e-mail below. I wasn't in work yesterday and so have only just got your reply. I will be a lot more careful what I buy in future, I feel so guilty now! <alas...we all make these mistakes... no worries. Just resolve not to repeat them as such <smile>> The Leather coral seems to have made quite a dramatic recovery, it has perked right up and has all it's (polyps?) extended. Should I still cut out the 'bad' bits or see what happens? i.e. it seems to have formed a scab on one of the places and that is almost coming off , Do they heal by themselves sometimes? <good symptoms indeed (especially the polyp extension), but once a coral has a necrotic infection, it usually does some damage. Do explore without touching the coral: take a turkey baster and blast water at the wounds to see if soft tissue is still dying. If so, then do cut out the bad parts. Else, baste with blasts of water daily for several days to help the healing process. Some people even take a soft toothbrush and gently scrub into good tissue to remove decay> All your comments were much appreciated and I will act on them ASAP. I have a 2ft tank in the garage, is that big enough for the carpet Anemone? <probably for a while... and do give nice bright reef quality light. And just as importantly, do feed it several times weekly. Feeding is critical with these large aggressive anemones. Their adult size is several feet across in the wild but they live many decades (this may be an understatement... some have postulated that they have no defined lifespan and than many large species in the wild are over 100 years old... this is part of the reason why so many folks discourage the taking of this animal from reefs for casual aquarium captivity as opposed to fewer numbers for study. Long life and slow recovery from collection in the wild).> Can he still have his 2 clown fish for company, they seem to love him to bits! <that sounds very fine... it will make a lovely species-specific display. Its great to see your willingness and empathy to provide well for this animal. It sounds like you might need and enjoy some book recommendations. There are a couple of good books on anemone and clownfish (a Tetra book on Host Anemones and Their Clownfish, as well as a great book by Joyce Wilkerson on raising clownfish. For your coral... please do consider Eric Borneman's excellent Aquarium Corals and for easy reading reef aquarium husbandry and coral care/culture, my Book of Coral Propagation.> Thanks again Jenny <best regards, Anthony Calfo>

Chelmon rostratus & Christmas Tree Worm Hi Robert! <Steven Pro in today. Bob is in Arizona making a pitch to one of their local clubs.> Always Hervé the French aquarist owning the flounder ;-) I'd like you to confirm what I'm thinking : I have a Chelmon rostratus in my tank and someone would like to give me his Porites with "Christmas tree worms" but I'm afraid that the worms could become a great meal for my Chelmon! What do you think about that? <Yes, definitely would become food. The Porites and Christmas Tree Worms are popular, but fare rather poorly in captivity. The Porites are generally VERY bright light corals and the worms are difficult to feed. -Steven Pro>

Alveopora Worm? Hi Bob, <Anthony Calfo in your service> I have an Alveopora that I bought about 15 months ago. For a year it was doing fantastic. Then suddenly it started to fade. <commonly from excessive light and more often from inadequate dissolved organics (source of nitrogen)> I was trying to determine why. I read a very odd thing on a different site where someone noticed that there was a worm that would live on the same rock as the Alveopora. Several people commented that they saw the same thing. I am sure I saw one as well. Well, about 3 months ago, I moved, and I believe that during the move this worm died, as I haven't seen it in a long time. Now, the Alveopora is fading. <if it is "fading" in the sense that its color is paling the worm absolutely had nothing to do with it. Impossible. Changes in pigmentation are caused by many things... but never a worm. Temperature and salinity stress easily, but again... usually excessive light (NEVER direct MH or PC light for Alveopora) or lack of nutrients in a well skimmed tank> I also read that if people kept several of them in a clump, they tended to do better, <yes... seems to be some truth to this> I would assume that has something to do with the worms that live or die sharing responsibilities across the rocks, or something like that. <the dynamic is not yet clear> I just wanted to get your thoughts on the theory, and see if there is anything that can be done for a receding Alveopora. <if your nitrates have been near zero for the last few months, your coral is simply starving. This animal is not strongly photosynthetic but cannot feed organismally (particles of food). It simply needs dissolved nutrients. See Knop's recommendation for making a nitrate solution to feed clams and invertebrates in his Giant Clam book. > Thanks, Steve <best regards, Anthony>

Goniopora and Carpet Anemones Hello Bob and Crew! <cheers, mate> I purchased a flower pot at my LFS with polyps retracted. <Doh!!!> The sales clerk assured me it would open fine. <Steeeeeee......rike, one!> By the 5th day of half polyp extension in my tank, I grew weary. Upon closer inspection, using a magnifying glass I noticed between the polyps on the hexagonal walls very slight browning or tissue decay. <very common... the way of most Goniopora soon after import> Without hesitation I removed the GONI into the QT where currently a small school of green Chromis sit in wait. Didn't want even a slight chance of spreading bacteria. <hmmm... a good move for the tank, but a bad move for the GONI... I suspect that you know already that the GONI should have gone through your QT first. For the benefit of others reading the post, the dilemma here is that a now clearly stressed and infected coral must now accept the burden of adapting to at least the fourth water quality in two weeks (wholesaler to pet store to display to QT). The change in lighting alone is extremely stressful and 4 such changes in a healthy coral can sometimes be fatal. Still... I do agree with the extraction to prevent the spread of infection> I proceeded to read your FAQs on flower pots. Basically don't buy flower pots! <true for most my friend... although for anyone interested in keeping these beautiful corals in a species tank, please browse I recent post that I proffered to an Australian message board on Gonios: http://ozreef.org/rtaw/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=003878 > But what should I do with this specimen? <leave it in place for at least 4 weeks if it survives... spike the tank with small daily doses of Iodine (variations on Iodine dips can be found in Eric Bs Aquarium Corals book and my Book of Coral Propagation). Also, small frequent water changes and the safe use of ozone can be very helpful> Its not doing that bad because to be honest I couldn't really see the decay without the magnifying glass. <gently siphon that decay out if possible... it is highly infectious> There is no light on the QT and I have an Asfur Angel arriving tomorrow that will be placed in the QT also. Can they both be in QT? <the Asfur may pick on the coral... but the coral will not bother the Asfur Angel> Maybe the Asfur will find the Flower Pot quite the "welcome to your new home" feast. <sure..., "Welcome to your new home...here, have a rotting coral to much on!" :) > I will be removing the Chromis' to the main tank today. Moreover, what interested me while reading the FAQs was your warning against having carpet anemones specifically "blue." I have had my blue carpet which is from Tonga for approximately 10 months now. <glad to hear it but you need to understand that some such animals take more than a year to starve to death when the net daily deficit in "food" translocation of carbon from photosynthesis or from organismal feeding) is only a few percent. 10 months is really not much of a feat yet. Still... with weekly if not daily feedings and very bright reef light you can indeed have this anemone for many years. They live for decades in the wild and are suspected of lacking a defined senescence (old age). Read more about coral/anemone feeding/starving here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fdreefinverts.htm and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/growingcorals.htm> Its perfect and I noticed its sting to be a little more "painful" then its green counterpart, which both are shared among 3 Maldives clowns. I don't think the blue carpet was the reason for the flower pot demise.... <heehee...hahahha...hehehhehe.....ahhh, well... if you say so :)> but maybe....The blue carpet likes to wonder around but I have it trapped between live rock walls so it basically crawls up and down and side to side moving a lot but getting nowhere. Are there any future consequences to my SPS's and other inverts outside of direct contact? <yes... and literature abounds on this subject. Mist chemical warfare among cnidarians occurs without touching (shed nematocysts and the like). Even a 50% water change every day still leaves 50% of the concentrated noxious elements behind and no one can say that carbon or skimming pull out enough. This is why unnatural mixed of SPS, anemones, soft corals, etc are not recommended. Better to keep like animals together for their increased familiarity and tolerance> What can I do to avoid these problems sans removing the carpet completely. <remove the other corals/cnidarians and leave the carpet...heehee> I don't think the Clowns would like that too much. One last thing...do I need to freshwater dip the Chromis again before placing in main tank? <if they have been through a full QT (4 weeks) no need> I had some deaths when I first got them but these last 10 have survived almost 2 weeks without any apparent signs of disease. <it would be better to go for the full 4 weeks especially because of those deaths... no guarantee that they aren't still carrying and something pathogenic won't flare up for the stress of the move> Thanks Again! Dennis <best of luck,