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FAQs about Red Algae/Rhodophyte Compatibility & Control
Related Articles: Red Algae in General,
Coralline Marine Algae, Avoiding
Algae Problems in Marine System,
Algae Control,
Marine Maintenance, Marine Scavengers,
Snails,
Hermit Crabs,
Mithrax/Emerald Green Crabs, Sea Urchins,
Blennies, Algae Filters,
Ctenochaetus/Bristle Mouth Tangs,
Zebrasoma/Sailfin Tangs, Skimmers,
Skimmer Selection, Marine Algae,
Coralline Algae, Green Algae,
Brown Algae, Blue-Green
"Algae"/(Cyanobacteria), Diatoms,
Brown Algae, Algae as Food,
Related FAQs: Red Algae 1,
Red Algae 2, Red Algae 3,
Red Algae in General,
Red Algae 2, Red Algae 3,
Red Algae Identification, Red Algae
Behavior, Red Algae Selection,
Red Algae Systems, Red Algae
Nutrition, Red Algae Disease,
Red Algae Reproduction/Propagation,
Coralline Algae, Marine
Macro-Algae, Use in Aquariums, Algae
as Food, Marine Algae ID 1,
Marine Algae ID 2, Marine Algae
Control FAQs II, Marine Algaecide
Use, Nutrient Limitation,
Marine Algae Eaters, Culturing
Macro-Algae; Controlling:
BGA/Cyano, Red/Encrusting
Algae, Green Algae,
Brown/Diatom Algae, | 
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Red Turf Algae/Algae Control
3/16/09
Hey Guys and Gals,
<Eric>
I hope the onset of summer is treating you all well, we're still knee
deep in snow here in Edmonton.
<Yikes, brings back unpleasant memories. Years ago I had landed in
Edmonton, then drove to Wetaskawin to set up some automated welding
equipment. It was the month of January and I couldn't believe how cold
it was. Geez, if you didn't plug your car in at night, you were not
going anywhere in the morning. Brrr!>
I look at my little slice of reef and imagine myself somewhere a little
more warm, where people were actually meant to survive, hehe.
<Amen.>
Quickish question about turf algae. That is what I believe I have, it is
red wine colored, about 2mm-1cm in length, and has little runners that
cling to the rock and make it impossible to move. I also have a red
algae that grows in horizontal plates, looks quite pretty but grows
everywhere. The hairy stuff started in a patch about the size of a
quarter and has since spread to more than half of my live rock. I'm
taking the following measures to get rid of it, just wanted your
opinion, and any suggestions.
<A picture here would have helped much.>
I read on your sight that red algaes don't like light and thus I
increased my photoperiod to 12 hours. I have a mix of T5 (2x18W,
10,000K) and CF (1x Actinic, 1x10,000K).
I upgraded my skimmer from a Prizm Pro to an Aqua C remora with a
MaxiJet1200 (amazing how much more gunk this pulls out).
<This improvement will help you here, don't expect overnight results
though.>
Changed the flow pattern in the tank (two Koralia nano powerheads both
on the back corners, pointing towards the front center of the tank),
about 500gph.
Using a phosphate removal media, and nitrate sponge, as well as
activated carbon, in a converted hang on back filter.
Trying to remove the really hairy bits, but it's on there solid.
Way lowered the amount I feed to my fish. Once every two days now, a mix
of new life spectrum flakes, algae flakes from Betta, and a mix I made
myself of frozen seafood.
The flat algae is going from red to orange, and then white, and I pull
that out as much as possible, it was easier to remove and seems to be
dying first anyway. When most of it was gone, the red turf algae rapidly
increased it's growth rate, I'm assuming because the nutrients the other
algae consumed were now available for the surviving algae.
<Likely.>
Rats. I have two Mexican turbo snails, an emerald crab, 3 blue legged
hermits, one scarlet hermit, and about 20 Nassarius snails.
<Nassarius are favored more as carnivores/detritivores.>
I'm thinking of getting more Turbos,
I've heard they like the red turf algae. Any other suggestions for
herbivores would be good, can't do fish though, it's only a 29 gallon
tank, no sump, and has a full livestock load.
<What is your fish load? You may be importing nutrients faster than you
can export.>
The water chemistry has been fine, pH has been hard to keep up, possibly
from all the dead/dying algae driving it down.
<Also a sign of a high bio-load.>
I'm using Seachem Marine
buffer to raise it back up. Calcium hovers at around 400-450ppm. I'd
like to keep it around 350-400 as I only have polyps, mushrooms, one
leather and a few LPS corals. Alkalinity is also low, until I add the
buffer to bring it up, only takes a few days to fall back down though.
Temperature stays around 80, occasionally rises to 81-82 (I don't have
thermostat control in this place, and they guys downstairs get
inexplicably cold occasionally....).
<Doesn't surprise me, I was cold taking a hot shower there.>
Nitrates are always at 0, but I'm guessing they are just consumed by the
algae. Same with phosphates, they hover around 0.05-1.0.
I do regular 5gal water changes once a week, with R/O water.
It is quite frustrating... the water is beautifully clear, but this
algae just won't go away... any comments/suggestions would be awesome!
<May want to replace the carbon with Chemi Pure, much more effective and
will aid toward raising your pH. Cleaning the riser tube in your skimmer
every
couple of days will increase it's efficiency. Do read here and related
articles/FAQ's.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Eric
Re Red Turf Algae/Algae
Control 3/16/09
Hey There,
<Eric>
Answers to those questions quickly. I'll try to get a picture soon for
you.
I have two false Percula Clownfish, a Purple Firefish, a Fire Shrimp and
a Coral Beauty Angel.
<In future queries, please cap the names of fish, inverts, etc. Thanks.>
I've been putting off removing the coral beauty, as I realize he's going
to grow too big for the tank, but I was hoping to eventually get a
bigger tank to transfer him to.
<The Coral Beauty needs more room than a 29 gallon can provide.>
It's a long story, but essentially our landlord won't let me have
anything bigger than a 29gal, I want to upgrade to a 72 gal bowfront, or
even a 175 gal bowfront (gotta dream right?). Of course this would mean
buying this house or moving, so things are at a standstill (is wanting a
better tank a bad reason to want a house? haha).
<Nah, I'd buy a beer truck if that was the only way I could get some
beer.>
I think I may need to just bite the bullet and pull the angel out of
there... I love him but he has started to grow.
<Yes, he would be much happier in a larger system and will lower your
waste level.>
I change my carbon every week, so once it's gone I'll use the Chemi Pure
to give that a try.
I do clean the riser tube every day.... it pulls out more gunk in a day
than the old skimmer did in a week. Thanks again for the help, stay
warm! We got
another 5 inches of snow last night and I have to go unbury the car now.
<Pain in the arsh, isn't it.>
Sigh.
<Cheers. James (Salty Dog)>
Eric
Red algae. ID, control, more – 09/07/08
Hello WWM crew, <Hello Ed> My name is Ed, and I have an algae
issue in my 4 year reef tank, and I'm going crazy trying to identify
it and trying to halt its advance. I have attached two photos of
it. Hopefully you have seen this type before and tell me if anything
will consume it. I have searched WWM in hopes of finding it with no
luck. In one of the picture's you will also see a type of starfish
that literally wraps itself around this algae. Don't mind the 3 year
old Mandarin as he is fat and happy... <I have seen this algae
many times. It is in my tank!!! I have been plagued by this algae
that seems to have originated from the Bali region of the
Indo-Pacific coming in on maricultured corals sold at local fish
stores. Eric Borneman and I have discussed this in detail. This
thread at his forum shows pictures and there is a large
discussion... http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic71371-9-1.aspx
Eric has taken Trochus snails to overcome and control his algae
while I use sea urchins from the diadema family.(Black long
spines)We both feel that this only controls the algae as it can have
very small fragments growing in other areas of the tank we can not
see. In your direct case, I recommend the removal of any rock
with the algae present as it is very invasive. You can than soak
that rock in vinegar and strip the life off of it, allow it to dry,
and then return it to your system to become re-established with life
forms. If the rock is attached or encrusted with corals, you can
either frag(CUT) the coral from the rock and attach it to another
rock with Super-glue Gel, or clean the rock as best as possible. If
you clean the rock you may have to repeat this procedure several
times. Always clean the rock in a separate container and rinse
before returning to the main system. This will prevent spreading
fragments of the algae thru out the system. The addition of
Trochus snails will help as the ones I have do eat it also.(Very
well, too) Just make sure they are Trochus snails as the other
grazers do not eat it. Some have reported that a Foxface Rabbitfish
will eat it also. I have not had such luck.> Tank parameters are
good, Ammonia-0, Nitrates and Nitrites-0, Ph 8.3, Alk is on the
lower end at 2.97.<I would raise Alk to 3.5 and begin checking your
Calcium levels with your Alk levels. They work together and affect
each other.> Sorry for the second e-mail but, I have added tank
information for you. <No, problem. I deleted the duplicate. Good
luck-Rich...aka...Mr. Firemouth> |
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Hypnea pannosa, Rhodophyte control, bio. pred. 8/13/08
Hi Crew, <Campbell> Looks like I have a lot of Hypnea Pannosa
growing in my tank. I found some info, surprisingly only one result, on
the WWM website in a post by Sara answered by Marco and Lynn.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/maralgidf19.htm In Lynn's' reply she
mentions that it's food for people and fish but doesn't go on to say
which fish? <Mmm... is used as a source of Carrageenan, and consumed
by humans fresh as "salad" in places... I imagine "the usual suspects"
in the way of fish groups would consume it... esp. Acanthurids,
Siganids, Pomacanthids...> Although the algae is pretty it can be a
pain especially at harvesting time. Since it so brittle I usually leave
it until I can detach it in large clumps, any sooner and it breaks up
and clogs the pump intakes, where it promptly anchors and starts growing
again. Trouble with harvesting big clumps is the algae branches are
haven to large populations of Copepods, Amphipods and even Bristle/Fire
worms. Last time I harvested I spent four back breaking hours hunched
over a tub with tweezers and pipettes separating the little critters
from the algae so I could return them to the tank. I hope to avoid this
in future so I wonder if you could tell me which fish genus and, even
better, which particular species will eat this algae. Failing that are
there any crabs or snails that would do the job? Many thanks in
advance, Campbell <In how large a system, with what other
purposeful livestock? A "stock" choice would be the Surgeons of the
genera Ctenochaetus and Zebrasoma... Bob Fenner>
Re: Hypnea pannosa, contr. 8/14//08 Many thanks
Bob, <Welcome Campbell> The system is about 225 gallons after
displacement but I have no herbivorous fish. The fish I have are mostly
carnivores and planktivores. However, I have plenty of Turbos, Astreas
and Ceriths as well as Red Leg Hermits that are doing sterling work as I
have no Hair Algae or other nuisance algae, assuming H. Pannosa isn't
classed as nuisance, at all but they don't go near the H. Pannosa..
<Mmm, in a volume this size, I am very tempted to suggest a member of
the genus Naso... perhaps the most common... N. lituratus... It would,
almost assuredly consume this algae... to its exclusion> Now I will
have a look at the fish species you mention and hopefully I be able keep
the algae in check. Regards, Campbell <Please peruse here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FishInd3.htm Scroll down to the Acanthurids.
BobF>
Re: Hypnea pannosa, tang. sel. 8/23/08 Hi Bob,
How are you today? <Fine, Campbell. Thank you> Thanks for the info
on the Tangs. I have looked at the Lipstick Tang, my tank is 8'x2'x2',
plus 6'x18"x16" sump, but I feel at 16" to 20" the Lipstick would be
just too big for the display when fully grown. <Would/will take a
good long while to reach about half this length... which would be about
maximum here> So I have been researching Ctenochaetus strigosus and
Acanthurus Japonicus and it looks like they would both be just a nice
size. Now I am trying to decide which one of the two to go for and the I
am leaning towards A. Japonicus. What do you think? Will A. Japonicus
eat this algae? <Mmm, not as likely as a Ctenochaetus species>
Lastly, what do A. Japonicus look like as juveniles? <Mmm, like
miniature adults... a bit lighter in body color, but the same markings,
colors> I am limited by my quarantine tank volume so must get a
juvenile at 3" or so, but can't seem to find any info or pics on
juveniles. <See Fishbase.org> Given their similarity, in both
looks and common name, to A. Nigricans and A. Nigricans relative
unsuitability for aquariums I want to make sure that I get an A.
Japonicus juvenile. Regards, Campbell <Easy to distinguish
twixt these two... at all sizes. Bob Fenner>
Please help me beat this red algae nightmare!!! 5/4/08 I
spend way too much time surfing your site and have found lots of
useful information. But, I still am having trouble and hope you can
help. <Will try> I have had a reef setup - or at least that is
the goal- up and running for 2 years, but have not been able to rid
my tank of this red nuisance algae since it arrived with the live
rock. (Please reference the attached photos). <I see this> I
have searched every site I can find on the net to identify it, but
no luck. It looks like a red fern; it has numerous small branches
making offshoots of a primary branch and each "plant" appears to
have 10+ branches. <Is a Rhodophyte... but need a closer-up,
better-resolved image to tell more> It starts out a deep magenta
and changes to a light pink over time. It really is quite attractive
when there is only a little patch. However, it has taken over the
tank! This is the setup: · 75 gallon tank with 75 gallon
package from Tampa Bay Saltwater (live rock, live sand, brittle
star, sea cucumber, blue leg hermits, Astrea snails, unwanted
gorilla crabs still lurking in some crevices, lots of purple
porcelain crabs) · 2 Koralia 4 power heads for water movement in
the main tank · 2 Maxijet 600s for water movement in the main
tank · 4 VHO bulbs in main - two actinic blue and two actinic
white · under tank CPR sump. I know now it isn't the best choice
based on information on your site, but it seemed like a good option
at the time. with main pump that is pumping at the max flow rate for
the system - to the point that the overflow can only maintain pace
with the pump, so I am not sure how many GPH. The sump also has a 2"
sand bed <I'd increase this to about four inches... For a few
helpful reasons. See here: http://wetwebmedia.com/dsbratuse.htm
and the linked files above... and add some Gracilaria,
Chaetomorpha... to the same area... with a light on during the hours
your main/display is in darkness... See WWM re these algal genera,
the rationale for their use...> and a few pieces of live rock -
added to see if they would help. but didn't · protein skimmer
included with the CPR sump with Maxijet 1200 pump · CoraLife
power compact fluorescents in sump that run off cycle of the main
tank <Oh! Good> · Chaeto mass (not really a ball and have not
been able to get it to tumble) in sump <Oh! I see you have this
already> · Use RO/DI water for top off/water changes · Instant
Ocean salt · two Ocellaris clown fish · royal Gramma ·
coral beauty · two Banggai cardinal fish · yellow tang ·
two Mexican turbo snails (started with 5) · sand sifting snails
(not sure which varieties and probably about 7 total left) · two
peppermint shrimp · purple long tentacle anemone · flower
anemone · pulsing xenia · open brain coral · coral that was
attached to the live rock when purchased · various pink, gray,
white sponges that were growing on live rock · mushrooms ·
Zoanthids · hammer coral · 1 lone yellow polyp The live
rock came with a small amount of this algae which we decided to keep
at the time, since everything I read indicated macro algae is great
for a system. If only we had removed it then!!! This is the history
of what we have done to try to get rid of it, I know it is quite
lengthy, but wanted to let you know what we have tried. Our efforts
are based off of numerous searches on your site, on other reef
keeping sites, and recommendations from, what we consider a
reliable, saltwater fish store. The tank cycled without problem
and we had a normal outbreak of green hair algae to begin with. We
used the toothbrush-siphon method combined with 50% water changes
and ridded the tank of the algae with relatively little effort.
Evidently, we still have a phosphorous/nutrient source because the
red algae has grown out of control since a few weeks after removing
the green hair algae. We have tried to prune and remove as much
of the algae as possible. However, the algae is firmly affixed to
the rocks and can't be entirely removed (even with a toothbrush),
breaks in tiny pieces when pulled, and sprouts from each little
piece we can't capture. in other words it doesn't really help! The
algae grows so thickly together that I even lost a clownfish in one
pruning session. I pulled the fish with a handful of algae and never
new it until he didn't reappear. L Determined we could beat this
we started getting smarter on algae control and tried: · weekly
30% water changes for 2 months. no change · raised the salinity
level slightly. no change (now at 1.025) <Is fine> · decreased
the lighting cycle to 8 hours/day. no change · used Rowaphos -
twice. no change · added GARF Grunge and additional live sand
(total of ~4" depth in display) to promote coralline algae growth.
minimal increase, no effect on nuisance algae <Is worthless> ·
changed all light bulbs. no change · increased main tank lighting
cycle by several hours. no change. currently at about 14 hours/day
in the hopes of "cooking" the red algae, per your site · rigged
up a much bigger pump for the protein skimmer so it always produced
large quantities of skimmate. no change just a really loud skimmer
· changed all the filters for the RO/DI unit. no change · added a
Rabbitface Foxfish <Which species?> hoping it would eat it, he
wasn't interested and become victim to a power head at his favorite
hiding spot. Two lessons learned, don't trust everything you read,
and ALWAYS have a cover on the powerhead intakes. · per
instructions for the bullet proof system at GARF, added Seachem
Calcium and Reef Builder to top off water to encourage coralline
algae growth...slight increase in coralline algae but no decrease in
nuisance algae <... not of use> · washed all food - currently
only Hikari mysis shrimp and no longer use any flake food or low
quality frozen foods from local pet store. no change · reduced
feeding to force the herbivores to eat the algae - the would rather
starve and the carnivores take it out on the poor snails · added
Mexican turbo snails in hopes of seeing the mowed down algae paths
others report. they are dying off making dinner for the crabs or
starving from refusing to eat this red stuff · Changed 2 of the
then 4 MaxiJet power heads to Koralia 4s to increase water movement.
no change · let the tank go without water changes to encourage
some equilibrium and let the sand bed work. no change I know this
sounds like a lot of attempts, but trust that each one was carried
out independent of the next step to ensure we gave the system time
to respond. We can't seem to find anything that makes a difference
with our husbandry techniques or any animal that will eat this
stuff. I have tested the water and the parameters are all within
the specifications listed on your site. I can't detect phosphate but
the more reliable fish store we frequent tested the water and
reported slightly elevated levels of phosphates, but said it wasn't
high enough to cause significant concern or this widespread of an
outbreak. They recommended using Rowaphos and changing RO/DI
filters. I don't know what the phosphate level was, but evidently we
still have a phosphate or nutrient problem we can't control. In
the sump, the Chaeto hardly grows, <Being suppressed by the
Red...> instead we have red hair and red slime algae growing on
the sides of the sump and a slime coating throughout the Chaeto. The
Chaeto also holds a lot of detritus. I am not sure how to remove
this without tossing out the Chaeto and getting a new ball after a
massive water change and tank clean out. <Pick it up during
water changes, give it a good shake in a tub of water> I thought
if I can't beat the red stuff, I would use the red nightmare to my
advantage and put it in the sump. it won't grow there!!! I assume
the main tank uses most of the nutrients and what is left is used by
the red slime/hair algae in the sump. The anemones are doing
fine (the clownfish and the Cardinalfish are hosting in the LTA)
The xenia were growing like mad, but took a hit somewhere in the
cycle of ridding the algae. I was so focused on the algae, I am not
sure what step impacted them. <Happens> The zoos are doing
fine and have spread to several rocks. The mushrooms are doing well
and spreading, too. The lone yellow polyp (the remaining transplant
from a friend's tank) refuses to grow which I don't understand since
they are supposed to grow like weeds. <Likely some Cnidarian
negative interaction. Likely the Actinarians/Anemones> Sponges
and corals on the live rock are doing well, too. I have not been
able to get a good growth of coralline algae, it won't grow on the
glass, but does on the plastic overflow and some of the rocks. The
hammer coral won't grow either. (I am hoping the combination of what
is growing well and what won't might give a clue of how to fix
things.) I have tried to clean the sand when I do a water change,
but don't have a good technique for doing this without siphoning out
the sand. So, I stir up the bottom and siphon out the brown cloud.
But, like everything else, it doesn't seem to make a difference.
Currently there are patches of the algae on almost all of the live
rock and on the powerheads. What else can I try, other than tossing
out all the rock and starting over? That is not a financially or
time-wise realistic option at this point. I would rather give away
the livestock and restart again later. I had dreams of a beautiful
reef setup with lots of corals, but I am afraid to put any in the
tank until it gets under control. Please help!!! Thanks,
Kristina <I would try another Rabbitfish, Siganus stellatus (of
small size, less than five inches overall length if you can locate
one)... and the "Kalk trick" here... temporarily elevating pH to
about 8.6 with successive administration... to precipitate soluble
phosphate (the source, foods, water, of HPO4 is likely bound up in
the Red algae...)... try this three times (once a week)... and the
Siganid... and increasing the DSB depth in the sump with
fine/oolitic substrate. Bob Fenner> | 
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Please help me ID and get rid of this Brown Algae 8/22/07
Hello. I've been trying to id this brown algae in my tank so I can
figure out how to get rid of it, but haven't found any pictures that
look like this algae. <Mmm... not a brown, but a Red: Peyssonnelia
sp. An encrusting Red. Class Rhodophyceae, Subclass Florideophycidae,
Order Gigartinales, Family Peyssonneliaceae.> Hoping you
wonderfully knowledgeable reefers can help. :) I have some dark brown
algae growing in circular patterns on my rock. Attached are 3 pictures
of the same algae. What concerns me, is how much it has grown in 6
weeks. I looked at an old picture, and 6 weeks ago, there were a couple
spots on one rock that were about the size of the tip of my pinky
finger, and now they've grown into one spot about 2" in diameter. I
thought this algae wouldn't be removable because it looks fused to the
rock, but with some work, I completely was able to remove one circle
about 1.5" in diameter. Came off in very small pieces. I thought it was
slimy, but when I started pulling off pieces, it actually looks and
feels like seaweed / kelp. My tank is pretty new....has been up and
running for 4 months. My parameters are good, and I feed once a day
and try to only give enough food that the fish can consume within 5
minutes. I use RO/DI water (Spectrapure MaxCap) with 0 TDS, and
faithfully do bi-weekly water changes (10%). The sand bed looks good.
It's just some good size patches of brown algae on the rock. No hair
algae or any other type of nuisance algae. I had a small spot of bubble
algae and turned the lights off for 3 days about a month ago and it
disappeared and hasn't come back, but turning off the lights didn't do
anything with this algae. Any idea what this algae is and what is the
best option to get rid of it? <Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/redalgcompfaqs.htm and the linked files
above> If I work on pulling it out manually, or using a toothbrush,
will little pieces of it that might not make it to the skimmer, create
an even bigger problem by spreading it around the tank? <Maybe...>
Just FYI.... I recently added a second power-head to add some flow. (25x
turnover now). I run my T5's for 10 hours a day, and the 150w MH only
runs for 4 hours a day (only softies right now). All bulbs are only 4
months old. My parameters: Nitrates, Nitrites and Ammonia are all
0. Phosphates are .1 PH 8.1 Alk 2.9 Temp 82 going up close
to 84 when MH's are lit Calcium 330 5 small fish in a 53 gallon
tank. (2 small Perculas, 1 Purple Firefish, 1 Pygmy Possum Wrasse and 1
Tailspot Blenny) Thanks! Pam <Mmm, a few possible approaches
here... Nutrient limitation... the growing of competitive species...
Greens likely... Read on. Bob Fenner>
Re: Please help me ID and get rid of this Brown Algae 8/23/07
Thank you Bob. I'll start going through the links on the page you sent
me. It looks more brown to me, than red, <Perhaps the photo itself
has some artifactual color influence here> in person...but I know in
the photos I sent, it definitely looks deep red. Any chance this could
be Lobophora? <Mmmm, not much...> It's not lifting up at the
edges at all, but maybe it hasn't gotten to that stage yet?
<Bingo...> If it's definitely a red algae, any way that's best to
remove it, or is manual removal the best option? Thanks,
Pam....also an avid diver! :) <Actually, I'd enjoy it... likely
increasing light intensity alone would disfavor either a Red or
Brown/Phaeophyte, over a Green... Bob Fenner>
Re: Please help me ID and get rid of this Brown Algae
8/24/07 Hey Bob. Thanks again for the quick response.
Hmmm...hadn't thought about increasing light intensity. I thought the
opposite, that algae would grow more, with more light. <Mmmm, think
about how the various Divisions (the botanical equivalent of zoological
taxonomies Phyla) are semi-arranged... with some found/predominating
more/less bright et al. environs...> Right now, my four 24w T5's are
lit 10 hours a day, and one 150w MH's is only lit for 4 hours a day (all
softies and LPS in my tank right now). What would you suggest slowly
increasing the hours my MH is lit and would you increase it by an hour a
day, an hour a week?? <I'd try a few more hours per day... increase
to perhaps 8,9...> I don't find the looks of this algae very
appealing, and if it didn't spread, I'd be fine, but seeing how much it
has spread in 6 weeks, scares me. I'd much rather see more coralline on
the rock than this ugly algae. I do have one red macroalgae that popped
up on it's own that I love. Looks like red lettuce or something. Really
cool looking. I see one sprout beginning elsewhere too. Just curious....
what made you rule out Lobophora ? <A few things... one is that
this and most browns don't do well in captive systems unless they are
administered iodine/ide/ate... in quantity, regularly... Another, that
it does not look "soft" as this genus almost always appear in
aquariums... and lastly, the very distinctive "ring-like" growth of
Peyssonnelia...> I know you're an expert reefer.... <Oh... I can
be wrong... am almost a few times daily...> so I completely trust
your judgment. <Mmm, please, don't> Lobophora was just the
closest thing I could find to what I have. Had no idea if it was
actually that or something else. Thanks again. Pam <Can be
determined pretty easily twixt being a Phaeophyte or a Rhodophyte... do
you have access to a simple microscope and simple chemical tools? Bob
Fenner> | 
|
Spreading red bubble algae! At my wits end! 4/15/07 I am
currently struggling with red bubble algae in my 14 gallon BioCube. My
tank is 6 1/2 months old. I have been battling this red bubble algae for
the last two months. It is spreading and getting worse, as you will see
in the attached photos. <Can see this... does look like a
Botryocladia infestation... of epic proportions> It started off with
what looked like red/burgundy or even blood spattered looking stuff over
the top of one of my rocks. Then it turned into red bubbles. Hard, solid
bubbles. Now it has spread to the next rock. I was told not to pop any
of the bubbles because it will release spores into my tank and cause it
to spread more. I was told not to remove the rocks and scrub it off and
then rinse and return the rock to my tank because it will continue to
come back. I was told that putting a small Foxface in my tank will take
care of the problem, <Mmm, not likely> but as soon as I took the
Foxface out after it ate all the bubble algae, it would come right back.
I cannot even think about this option because my tank is too small for a
Foxface, and I already have 3 small fish in my tank that I am quite
attached to. I was then told that my only option would be to totally
tear my tank down; siphon all water, remove the sand, rocks, etc... and
start all over again with everything new, after scrubbing my tank and
equipment clean. Is this the only way to get rid of the red bubble
algae? <Mmm, no... there are a few other approaches worth
considering> I am very frustrated with it at this point and it
breaks my heart if I have to start all over again. What do I do with my
current tank inhabitants and corals? <Mmm, depends...> My tank
inhabitants are a percula, sixline wrasse, midas blenny, fire shrimp, 10
tiny blue legged hermits, pom pom crab, 4 Astrea snails, 2 Nassarius
snails, and electric blue legged hermit crab. Coral-wise, I have a
pagoda cup, star polyps, button polyps/zoos, mushrooms, finger leather,
xenia and Octobubble coral. What causes this bubble algae <Like
crimes... access, motive...> and if I have to break everything down
and start all over again, how do I make sure that it doesn't come back?
Also, how harmful is it if "nothing" is done? <Might cause a
collapse... cascade event if something becomes rate limiting...> I
do 20% water changes every other Saturday using Nutri-Seawater, I top
off using RO/DI water. My parameters have all been consistent for the
last 4 months. Temp: 80.9, Ammonia: 0, PH: 8.2, Nitrite: 0, Nitrate: 0,
Calcium: 450, Salinity: 0.126. I feed my fish twice a day during the
week with frozen brine, mysis, emerald entree, marine cuisine, (mixing
it up from day to day) and on the weekends, I just feed once a day. I
have my lights on a timer; actinics on from 7am-6pm, regular lights on
from 8am-5pm, and then the moonlights on from 6pm-7am. Is there anything
that I can do/try before having to tear down my whole tank? <All
sorts...> I was told to send you an e-mail because if anyone would
be able to properly advise me and help, it would be you. I am looking
forward to your response. Thanks, Kim P.S. The first pic
shows what the bubble algae looked like 2 months ago, the second and
third, from 1 month ago, and then the rest are from today. <Mmm,
there are a few places I would read before settling on a course of
trials, changes here...
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-02/hcj/feature/index.php
and:
http://wetwebmedia.com/redalgcompfaqs.htm and the linked files
above, where you lead yourself... A multiple "front" approach is
advised... nutrient limitation, macrophyte competition... perhaps adding
a purposeful refugium, DSB... Bob Fenner> | 
|
Red algae herbivore? 3/7/07 I have an outbreak of a red algae
and I'd like to know what would eat it. I think the algae is Hypnea
ramentacea and I've tried an urchin and a Zebrasoma scopas but
neither seem interested. Should I get another type of tang (maybe
Bristletooth) or a Rabbitfish. Cheers Gavin <Worth trying...
though... if it were me/mine, I'd harvest and sell this as an
ornamental! Bob Fenner> | Re:
Red algae herbivore? 3/8/07 All attempts at
manually harvesting it just spread it more. As you tear it off the
rocks, small pieces are blown around the tank and establish where
they land. <Ah, yes... been here... maddening> I don't think
I can ever eradicate it so I need a method of control. As per some
other responses on your site I will reduce nutrient input, increase
water changes and get another herbivore. I have read that a type of
Hypnea has become a pest in Hawaii and studies indicated a type of
Siganus and sea turtles eat it. So if I can't find a sea turtle :)
<Heeee!> I may have to settle for a Rabbitfish. <Maybe a
Siganid...> Do you think that growing a faster algae in the sump
would out-compete it and slow it's growth? <Yes... often a
useful technique> If so, what would be a suitable species,
Chaetomorpha? <A good choice... this and the genus Gracilaria>
Cheers Gavin <And please do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/redalgcompfaqs.htm and consider
the ever-more popular seaslugs... Aplysiids... that might well
gobble all in quite a short while. Bob Fenner> | 
|
Re: Red Algae.. Nuisance Or Not 2/12/07 James, <Andrew>
Thank you for the reply and sorry about the image size. I resized it
and is now 255 kb. Hopefully that will fit your server limit and show
enough detail for my question. <Thank you for this.> Again,
I appreciate the response and look forward to any help you might give
me. Andrew On 2/9/07, crew
<crew@mail.wetwebmedia.com> wrote: Thank you for contacting us
at WetWebMedia.com> Your reply is below Red Algae. Nuisance Or Not
2/9/07 Hello guys, not sure who I am going to get but thank you for
taking my question! <Andrew, please downsize the photo and resend,
much too large a file for our server, a few hundred kb will do. James
(Salty Dog)> I have had my 75g reef tank set up for a little over
three years now. I have unknowingly been sitting with a lot of
phosphates in the water for an undetermined amount of time and have felt
the hurt of my tank not flourishing as well as it should. I am now
attacking the problem with R.O. water changes/ top off and PhosBan to
remove the existing phosphates. I know it is a long time to finally
figure this problem out but better late than before it was too late...
<Yes indeed.> Along with a couple issues, I have had a recent growth
in an undetermined (what I believe to be) algae. At first I thought it
was red bubble algae but the pictures I have found don't match. I also
checked the forums here and did not find a match. I did see a picture I
thought could have been a match but it was not clear enough for you guys
to ID it. I have attached a picture of this unknown, I hope it is
clear enough to ID. If this is a "bad" algae, what can I do to rid
my tank of it? Are there any inverts that would like to feast upon
this algae? Would the stabilizing of my water conditions eventually
kill these off? Do I need to meticulously pick every last one off? Is
this a positive addition to the reef? Any help would be greatly
appreciated and again, I thank you for taking my question. Keep up the
great work, I should have come here a long time ago to make sure I
started in the right direction! PS- Tank specifications are as
follow: 75g Oceanic Reef Ready 20g Sump (Bio Balls) with Rio
3100 (1 water exhaust with splitter)<-- <With live rock, you can
safely remove the bio balls, but remove 25% weekly so as to give the
bacteria growing on the rock time to adjust.> Another e-mail to >
follow soon regarding this Nautilus PS (in sump) JBJ PC hood
(4x65w; 2 dual 10K, 2 dual Blue 03) ~70 lbs live rock ~20 lbs
live sand (2 inches) <Without sand stirring critters, I'd have no
more than one inch depth, a good place to start a nitrate factory.>
Mated pair of Clarkii clowns (2 years) Pink Goby (1 month)
Bicolor Blenny (3 months) Candy Hogfish (removing this week;
destroyed organisms on live rock. Bad advice form LFS) Eibli Angel
(removing this week; destroyed organisms on live rock. Bad advice form
LFS) Cleaner shrimp (2 years) Bubbletip Anemone (2.5 years)
Kenya Tree Coral (1 month) Colt Coral (2 months) Andrew
<Andrew, forgot to mention that your red algae is perfectly safe in your
tank. Too many things on my mind at the moment...sorry.> |
Re: Red Algae.. Nuisance Or Not 2/13/07 James, <Andrew>
Thank you for your response. I appreciate the info regarding the
live sand and the bio balls. <You're welcome.> Looks like I
have my weekend project set for the next few weeks. <Can be
fun.> I am still not too sure what the probable algae is. Where
you able to ID it? <No, didn't try. Thinking it may be
Laurencia nidifica or a very similar species. Do Google, I'm sure
you will find.> If not, what would you recommend I do with it?
<Keep it, very attractive, nice contrasting color for the
tank. These type algae are generally not long lived in the home
aquarium (personal opinion), so enjoy.> Thank you again for the
advice. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Andrew | 
|
Red Turf Algae in my overflow box...acting as a nutrient scrubber?
1/29/07 Dear Crew, <Russell> Yet another red turf algae
question... A few weeks ago I noticed a thick carpet of red turf algae
(after searching your website, possibly Polysiphonia) growing in my
overflow box, but barely any in my tank. I thought to myself, "Hey...I
have the answer to this!" So I covered the overflow box with a piece
of dark Tupperware (high tech) and sure enough, in a week or so it
was dead. <Good going> Then, to my surprise, it started popping
out all over my tank in tight little bunches. Great stuff this algae.
Not so much an invasion, but just numerous little tufts on the sharp
edges of rock. I've tried not to take it
personally. <Heeee! Good attitude> My tank parameters are
pristine, although I suppose dKH is a little low at 7-8... but I've
recently backed off dosing 2-part additive. I was going crazy with
B-Ionic and the like, chasing numbers and turning my sump into a pile of
concrete. Now, I'm just going for water changes instead, 10% per week.
<Good> My skimmer is doing great and I have a well maintained
RO/DI system. I have a Chaeto refugium. I've done a couple of 20%
plus water changes with maybe positive results. Also, scrubbing it
off with a brush seems to be keeping it mostly in check. Questions:
When I starved it of "sunshine" did it seek revenge by releasing spores?
<Likely so> Or was it possible the red algae lining of my overflow
box actually been acting as a nutrient scrubber? <This too> It
must have been growing there for some time. Besides water changes,
super-skimming, not over-feeding (I have a low biomass, 3 fish and a
half dozen corals... softies, polyps, LPS) and perhaps bumping the dKH a
little, any other suggestions for keeping this algae at bay? <Mmm,
do you have room, desire to add another organism? I'd try a genus
Ctenochaetus tang... or a Salarias, Atrosalarias Blenny if they'll get
along with what you currently have> I've considered allowing it to
grow back in my overflow box. Could I possibly have too much light
over my 75 gallon tank? (2x250watts of 20K MH light 6 hours midday,
2x220watts 20K VHO 3hrs morning, 3hrs late afternoon)?
Thanks, Russell in KY <Mmm, no... not IMO... I'd do about as you
have thus far... and consider adding a/the purposeful algae eater.
Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Growing Macro Algae 1/24/07 Morning Crew :) <Good
morning Lisa.> We picked up this piece of live rock a couple of
days ago because the LFS said they wouldn't/couldn't separate the
anemone from the rock. It's having no problem relocating itself.
<Is the way to go.> Anyway, the clown hasn't gone back to it's
anemone (the shine a light suggestion didn't work) <Give it
time, right now the clown is adjusting to new quarters.> but the
rock is covered with this red macroalgae. <Unfortunately, I
cannot open the file. Just appears as a square with a red x
(Bob, am I missing some software here to open this?)> <<Right click
James... see the "Show Picture" line? Left click it. RMF>> It
seems to be lightening up a little from when we first got it. It's
in a 90 gal bowfront and I'm wondering if it's too far from the
lights? Lights are Dual Daylight 6,700k/ 10,000k Dual Actinic
420nm/460nm Lunar Light Moon White Independent Control No Fans.
<Stating the wattage of the tubes is important here> Water
parameters are all excellent, SG is 1.025. Running a phosphate
reactor, protein skimmer in sump with refugium. <If growing
macro is your desire, I'd shut down the phosphate reactor. Macro
algae thrive on phosphorous and nitrogen.> Does this beautiful
red algae need to be placed higher in the tank or will it be okay
where it is? <If you have about 4 to 5 watts of light per
gallon, the algae should thrive. If not, try relocating to the
upper third of the tank. Try sending the pic a different way,
like through Kodak software or similar program. There are some
types of macro that do not fair well under aquarium conditions.>
Thanks, <Your welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Lisa Hupman | 
|
Unexpected Affinity for Botryocladia 12/14/06 Dear Wet
Web Media <Hello there, Mich with you tonight.> I love your
site and consult it often, thank you for all your work.
<Thank you for your kind words. Glad you find the site helpful.> I
recently moved and when I did I upgraded from a 55gal to a 180gal tank.
<Very nice!> I gave away all of my fish and inverts when I moved and
started over with the new tank pretty much form scratch except for some
live rock. <OK> So I bought about 100 lbs more live
rock and cycled the tank. Its now been about six months and I've begun
to add a few things. My question comes because I've run into an issue
with my stocking plan. I was hoping to have a Kole Tang and some type
of Dwarf Angel in the tank at some point however an unexpected thing
came with the new live rock. On several of the peaces <pieces> red
macro algae began to grow ( I think its Botryocladia sp. form what I
found on your site - long red strands of grape like balls ) Now the
problem is that I've become somewhat attached to the algae after these
months and I'm not sure that I want to introduce a fish that will
completely wipe out the algae. <How nice, an unexpected
affection.> So is it possible that a single Kole Tang could eat all
of the algae? <Hard to tell, but it wouldn't surprise me
if he did.> Or could the algae keep up with the grazing? I always
planned on adding clips of algae for grazing but wasn't sure if fish
prefer live food? <Depends on the fish.> And also
about the Dwarf Angel? Would the Angel graze less?
<Less than a Kole Tang.> Any help you could give me would be great.
<If you care about this algae, which it sounds like you do, I would try
to chip a piece of rock off with the algae attached. Place it somewhere
that the fish won't have access to it. It could be in the main displace
as long as it is well sheltered (but still getting adequate light and
circulation) or you could try to grow it in another tank, be it your
refugium or sump, or possibly share with a friend.
Thanks again for the great site. <Nice that you feel it is
so. -Mich> Precision Metal Works Jonathan Lockard
Botryocladia (red bubble algae) 10/26/06 I bet you have
lots of questions like this. I did read the articles but could not come
up with a plan for my specific tank. I have a 10 gallon tank, pretty
small, live rock and sand are the mainstay. I have a pump, a
charcoal filter-mostly for flow and breeding area for little creatures
that look like 1/4inch size shrimp, and a air stone. I have mushrooms, 1
type of polyps and a portion of a frogspawn coral. Everything was happy
for years. Then somewhere I developed this red bubble algae, not to big
of a problem I actually thought it was pretty as it had almost a gold
luminance. Now it is so out of hand! It is growing on the small
encrustations that grow in the tank, these are small about 1/4 inch
also. They just came along. The only creatures in the tank are those
small things I mentioned, some bristle worms that came with the live
rock. The problem is that the red bubble algae is now trying to grow on
the frogspawn stalk and the polyps. I need help in controlling how much
of this grows. I did leave an area for this to grow so that whatever
nutrients it was taking in would be used up however that did not work.
It is extremely hard to remove without breaking the sacs open or
replanting these. Also difficult to remove from the rock with the
polyps. I did not know if I should try a fish, or emerald crabs or what
and that is what I am asking. <Mmm, maybe...> I do have a 75
gallon saltwater tank without any bubble algae hair algae, much easier
to pull out), this tank has also been up and running reef tank with
only 1 fish, a pretty blue and yellow damsel. That tank has
the original frogspawn, xenia which likes to live everywhere), open
brain coral, slipper. All the parameters of both tanks are where you'd
want them, as is the lighting and temps. I cannot afford RO water so
use tap. hence the hair algae) Any idea how to save the polyps on
the rocks of the 10 gallon tank with the red bubble algae, I am fairly
sure it is of the: Botryocladia (red bubble algae) species. <A few
possibilities... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/redalgcompfaqs.htm>
Sue <No mention of nutrient levels... or alkalinity, biomineral
content... I would use water from the main tank, re-new/replace the LS,
LR... Bob Fenner> Re:
Botryocladia (red bubble algae) - 11/02/06 Before I sent
my question to you regarding the red algae I did read all I could find
using the search engine on WWM, that is how I found out what the algae
was. I have also read WWM many many times over the past 6 years that
I have had both reef tanks, I have found the questions and answers
informative and helpful. However, when I feel the tank is crashing and I
cannot locate the information that pertains specifically to the
situation I am in or perhaps I just do not realize that answer would
apply to my case too I have written in the past. Generally every one
answering was so nice, helpful and things worked out. <Good>
What I eventually did after reading 3 articles on red algae was take
all the rocks out into another container w/water from the 75 gallon
tank, scrape off and remove the algae by hand, added a green emerald
crab, 3 margarita snails and 7 zebra snails. <Good moves>
Hopefully, they will be able to eat the young algae as it
forms preventing another out break. I then used water for a small water
change and added water from the 75 gallon tank. While I probably have
room for other creatures I have been reluctant to get any as it is such
a small tank, the LFS were not encouraging this size tank as they can
quickly develop problems. But, I would end up with the odd mushroom or
polyp or frogspawn and put those parts into this tank and they just
took off doing so well. The mushrooms and frogspawn took a beating
having to do this. Hopefully, they will have some resilience and perk
back up. The polyps seem to be lost and I do not know what will come of
them. I would not have sent an email requesting information on what to
do unless I searched and researched not just the WWW but Reef Central
and other online to feel I could not find the information. I am not
sure I have enough of the cleaner crew but the LFS did not want to sell
more for 10 gallon tank. and have had to send email to WWM crew in the
past. Hopefully this will correct the situation. AND, hopefully my
mushrooms will live, the frogspawn is doing well and the polyps return.
Thank you, Sue <Please do keep me/us apprised. Bob Fenner>
Making Ogo Go-Go! 8/11/06 Just a quickie: Is there
ANYTHING that will eat Gracilaria textorii? <Umm....500,000,000
Tangs! LOL> The dilemma? It's a 24 gallon; LPS, and zoos.
<Ahh...the problem.> All my fellow reefers are out of ideas. Pygmy
angel too big for 24 gallon. I am out of ideas and ripping the stuff out
constantly does not help. <Although my personal experience is with
G. parvispora. I'll make the assumption (gulp) that its palatability is
similar to other species. What that all means is that you are really
limited to Tangs, Rabbitfishes and possibly, other harsh grazers (maybe
Urchins)! Which of these would live comfortably in a 24 gallon tank?
Probably none of them. My thinking is that you might need to "rent out"
your rocks covered in the algae to friends with Tangs in
appropriate-sized tanks. The other thought would be to remove the other
photosynthetic life in your tank and go without light for several days.
Perhaps this might knock off some of the macroalgae. On the other hand,
if you do use this technique, you'll need to keep water quality high as
the algae die off.> My tang worked wonders when it was a 220 gallon.
But my downsize after a move is letting the G. textorii get the better
of me. HELP! <Well, it's sort of an interesting problem...For
some people with Tangs, it would be a dream come true! Given your small
quarters, manual extraction and the aforementioned "rent-a-rock" idea
will help. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Getting Gelidium!
Hello guys! <Scott F. your guy today!> Hope all is well. Can
you help me, I have red turf algae (Gelidium pusillus) that is slowly
taking over my rock. The snails keep it short, but it is still a slow
creep that covers up my coralline algae and is becoming a general
nuisance. Do you know of anything other than tangs that eat this stuff?
Inverts, crabs, slugs, anything? <Grr...this is a miserable algae,
which I've battled myself. I have yet to find an herbivore that eats
this stuff, although a friend of mine swears that his Tuxedo Urchin has
eaten the stuff...> Once we get our giant skimmer setup that will
slow it down, but until then I need help! This stuff is impossible to
get rid of. You can't pull it off the rock, toothbrush scrubbing doesn't
work, and I can't take all my corals off the rock and cure it. So what's
a girl to do?? <There is a tactical nuclear weapon that the Air Force
has tested...Nah, seriously, I think that you should continue with the
tedious manual extraction until the skimmer is in operation. You could
try the urchin, but beware of the potential collateral damage that this
creature could cause...> Thanks! Luv, M&M <Good luck! And do relay
any success that you have in destroying this awful stuff! Regards, Scott
F> Red Hair/Branching algae - Ceramium 5/31/04 Hello
Bob, <Anthony Calfo in his stead> I hope you're well and in a good
shape. <the more years that go by with me working in front of a
computer, the rounder I get. I'm thinking of strapping my laptop to a
treadmill <G>> I'm ok too, it could be better but it could be
worse.... <keep on keeping on my friend> I have received a
question about : "red algae Ceramium (???, do you know this algae?)
<the correct spelling is Ceramium with an "m". It is a nuisance
species... one of the many things called "red hair algae". This one
really is a doozy though. It naturally occurs in high nutrient near
shore environments and often lives as an unwelcome epiphyte on other
critters and substrates> The aquarist has a wild growth of these
algae and can't get rid of it. <no worries... it can be controlled.
Easily starved into submission with tighter nutrient control. Really...
it can disappear in 2-3 weeks with wicked protein skimming. It probably
got there because of poor protein skimming, weak water changes and/or
weak water flow which allowed sediments to accumulate> He asks for my
help. Al seems to be good in his measurements but he has a Ca test of
600, to heavy I think. <I doubt that the reading is even accurate.
Indeed too high. And if his Alk is not very low, then I am sure it is a
misreading. Else, the poor chap is having a precipitous snowstorm as we
speak <G>> I ask for my help and I ask for the help of the supreme
chancellor.... <Hmmm... yikes! And we've just been calling him "Bob"
all along.> He said he had a problem with his Ca reactor a while ago,
what he did to help the problem, he didn't say, perhaps is the solution
knowing what he did.... Read You. Regards, the best. Claude <Claude,
do suggest in concert with starving the algae out, some Diadema urchins
(Pacific or Atlantic species). They will only be treating the symptom
and not the problem, but will give results fast. They are marvelous
algae grazers. One small urchin per 100 gallons if you want to be
conservative. Prost! Anthony>
Nuisance red algae 4/5/04 Hey Anthony and Bob - I don't know
if you remember me but I am from the Rocky Mountain Reef Club in
Colorado and we had you guys come out and speak with us. I also
work with Barry at Aqua Medic and handle all his website development
and talked with you about wetwebmedia.com. <cheers to all the
Denver gang... especially that sweetie Becky at Neptune's <G>> I
am having a very annoying algae bloom in my tank and I don't know
what it is or what I need to put into the tank to eat it or what I
need to change to stop it. Here is a picture:
http://www.johnsreef.com/images/red_macroalgae.jpg Any
information would help. I would really appreciate it! Thanks!
John Michael <decent picture, but just not clear/close enough to
make a confident ID. Looks like it might be the dreaded red turf
algae, Polysiphonia to me. Do research that name (know that there
are many forms of it... stick to the hobby pics/sites.) Best
regards, Anthony> | 
|
Botryocladia Predators Hello. <Hey, Mike G here> I
recently purchased a red grape macro (Botryocladia sp.) and would like
to know if there are snails that will eat algae, but not touch my
red grape macro. <An astonishing array of herbivorous marine life
will consume Botryocladia species macroalgae, I am sorry to inform you.
I would think it would be consumed soon after you began to fill your
tank.> Also, would a lawnmower blenny eat the red grape macro?
<I would think so.>
Fauchea for Tangs? 1/8/04 Hi,
Will Tangs eat Fauchea and if so, does it supply nutrition similar to
Tang Heaven? <it is not so readily accepted as
Gracilaria. I am not sure about nutritional value though. I've seen the
specs on Gracilaria (Tang Heaven), but nothing on Fauchea. My advice is
to stick with Gracilaria... Fauchea can be a miserable nuisance over
time. Somewhat noxious too> Red Fauchea looks like a species that
grows really well in a tank or refugium <yes... because it is a
nuisance <G>> (we've tried several times to get Gracilaria to grow
out for the tangs - no luck). Thanks! <do try to find a copy of our
"Reef Invertebrates" which has extensive coverage of refugiums, plants
and algae species (the most comprehensive in the industry to date). But
the crash course on Gracilaria is most people do not give it enough
light (5 watts per gallon minimum... 2-3X even better), or enough water
flow (very strong is needed to keep the colony tumbling in suspension in
the aquarium). This algae is line or basket grown in shallow tropical
waters under very bright light and strong wave action. Anthony>
Anotrichum barbatum (The Red Scourge!) - 05/17/05 I have what
looks like red turf algae. Anotrichum barbatum was the name I was given.
<Is a red turf algae, yes.> Is there anything I can do to get rid of
it? All parameters are optimal (0 or correct levels). Lighting is 300
watts of VHO, HOB refugium, and a mini 606 power head. This tank is a
20L. Current inhabitants are a clown, Kenya tree, BTA, lawn mower
blenny, misc. blenny, scarlet hermits and blue leg hermits. <You need
much more flow, especially with that BTA. Please increase water flow to
10x-20x the tank volume.> Is there something I can put in there that
will eat it? Possibly a Nudibranch of sort? <Not likely. This algae
can be very troublesome to eradicate. Elevate your pH to 8.6 and keep it
there for several weeks, this has proven successful for some. I would
also recommend adding a protein skimmer to help with nutrient
export...an AquaC Remora would serve you well here.> Thank you very
much, Stephen. <Very welcome, Eric R.> Tap water Rinse for
Aiptasia? Another Infestation of Aiptasia after Buying Gracilaria
- QT! Dear Crew, <Paul> After receiving in the mail, a
half-pound of beautiful Gracilaria parvispora infested with Aiptasia, I
am at a loss as to what to do with it. Currently, it is isolated in a
bucket of saltwater with lighting and aeration but the vendor does not
seem to want it back. Is it possible to completely kill the Aiptasia and
its larvae by soaking the Gracilaria for several minutes with
chlorinated tap water? <Mmm, no> I don't want to contaminate my
aquariums but I hate to simply throw out the Gracilaria. Thanks,
Paul <I would go the route of using a purposeful Glass Anemone
predator with this red algae, while still keeping it separate from your
other systems. These Aiptasia-eaters are listed on WWM. Bob Fenner>
Can I Get Some Ogo To Go? 09/25/05 Hello, I was at this site
called Indo-Pacific Sea Farms and was reading about "Tang Heaven
Red". They call it a natural red sea weed that our tangs will love.
Have you great people at W.W.M. ever heard of this stuff. If you have is
it easy to grow in an aquarium like they say it is? <<Some Tangs love
Gracilaria parvispora, also known as 'Ogo'. It is possible to grow Ogo
though I would not say it is easy. Please see this link
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/redalgfaqs.htm). You could also search
WWM for "Gracilaria".>> Thanks for taking the time to answer.
Jim Jesko <<You're welcome. Cheers - Ted>>
Botryocladia skottsbergii HELP! Rhodophyte control in a nano
7/2/06 Hi Great website. Its may mainstay of info. <Glad
it is of use to/for you> I have mainly all PICO and NANO sized
tanks. I have two tanks with beautiful growth of coralline and many zoos
and other corals, however it being over run
with Botryocladia skottsbergii. At first I did not mind it, but now
its just gotten out of hand. Even my hermits and snails all sport coats
of the stuff...... <Yikes... "Attack of the Sea Grapes"!> Simply
stated. I need it gone or at least a way to control it. I tired to
manually clean it off the rocks, but it seems to propagate it.
Tanks are much to small for a tang unless I "rent" a small one for
awhile. I use I/O salt, SG is 1.026, temp 81 deg, cal 460, alk 11.6, ph
8.3, I use Chaeto for nutrient export and run a protein skimmer as
well. The tank that is worst is a 12 gal nano. Is there any other
small fish that would eat this stuff.......that would be better suited
than a tang.......I sure do not want to ruin my live rock and its
encrusted life. Any help is greatly appreciated. Roy Hauer
<Mmm, an excellent discussion of various "bubble algae" here:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-02/hcj/feature/index.php
including input on control means. Turbo species snails and small tangs
of the genera Ctenochaetus and Zebrasoma would be my first tries...
though these last can't live in such small confines indefinitely. Bob
Fenner> Red Algae <<Greetings, JasonC
here...>> Can you give me some direction regarding where I am going
wrong in trying to control the red algae (probably Centroceras &
Wrangelia) in my aquarium? <<My guess would be BGA - Cyanobacteria, not
really an algae but certainly behaves like one.>> I have a 50 gallon
tank, Fluval 404, BakPak Skimmer and powerhead for circulation. I feed
my 3 fish and 2 shrimp carefully. Readings are H 8.2, Temp 78-80,
Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 10 mg/L. I do a 5% water change every
other week. I run 3x30 watt full spectrum and 1x30 watt actinic for 12
hours a day. I've just added a couple of small pieces of Marshall Island
living rock and a small bunch of Caulerpa. However, the red algae covers
everything within a week to 10 days. How can I reverse this? <<I
would add one or two powerheads to the tank, perhaps more to increase
the water flow inside the tank. This is the best way as it makes it very
difficult for the algae to take hold. You will also have to continue the
manual removal until you gain the upper hand. Cheers, J -->>
Red algae/plant Thanks for the feedback! My hermits, snails and
cleaner shrimp haven't touched them from what I can tell (but maybe I
just haven't seen it). <they are the wrong kind of herbivore for
this job... they feed on microalgae/diatoms. You need a fish grazer
likely> Any idea what might find this thing tasty? <a
Foxface/Rabbitfish or some tang species> When should I be worried
about it taking over the tank and possibly causing problems for other
inhabitants? <really just an aesthetic matter... trim back as you
desire/wish> Thanks again, Andy <best regards, Anthony>
Fauchea Red Algae 11/3/03 Sorry, I do have one other
question. Have you heard of and know anything about Fauchea Red Algae?
Thanks, Paul <it is an interesting algae that can be a plague in
tanks without proper nutrient control. Have you referenced this species
on the website I sent you in the last e-mail? www.algaebase.org see
their links for this genus here -
http://www.algaebase.org/action.lasso Anthony> Macroalgae
II 11/3/03 Thanks for the info. I will research algae on your
web site better. I just have one more question about it. From what you
said below, I take it that I should pick one type of algae that I want
to use, and use only that one, correct? <correct> For example,
if I think Chaetomorpha is the one to go with, buy and use nothing but
it. <exactly... else one species will dominate the others and worsen
water quality in the process (during the fight). Anthony>
Botryocladia (red bubble algae) 1/11/04 New to the reef thing!!!
So the questions might be silly sorry. <no worries... keep asking
questions and learning> I have a 120 gal reef tank and about 130lbs
of live rock. After buying the live rock I had run out of money so
basically have watched the rock grow with only a couple corals in the
tank and hermits and snails. <excellent. Not enough aquarists have
such time/patience to let the rock establish without fishes. The quality
of live rock is much(!) better for this> Anyway I have a lot of what
I think is Botryocladia skottsbergii over a lot of the live rock. I
don't really have any other "bad" algae problems no slime in my tank
very few of the big green bubble. 1. Should I be concerned about it?
<not at all... it is very desirable to most aquarists. Rather hard to
procure and somewhat "ethereal" in existence. Enjoy it while you can>
2. Is there anything that feeds on it? <actually... and overwhelming
variety of herbivores will eat it. It will disappear once you begin
stocking the tank unless you take the time to set up a refugium on the
tank (very good idea) and remove some that safe vessel for safe keeping.
Anthony>
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