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FAQs about Giant Clam Disease: Nutritional

FAQs on Giant Clam Disease: Tridacnid Disease 1, Tridacnid Disease 2, Tridacnid Disease 3, Tridacnid Health 4, Tridacnid Health 5, Tridacnid Disease 6, Tridacnid Disease 7, Tridacnid Disease 8, & Pest Snails (Pyramidellids...),
FAQs on Giant Clam Disease by Category: Diagnosis, Environmental, Social, Trauma, Pathogenic, Treatments

Related Articles: Tridacnid Health: Pinched Mantle Syndrome in Giant Clams by Dr. David Basti, Deborah Bouchard & Barry Neigut, Got Tridacna? A beginner's guide to keeping Tridacnid clams by Laurie Smith, Example Chapter from NMA Reef Invertebrates book, on Giant Clams, Tridacnids, A Brief Guide to the Selection and Placement of Tridacnid Clams by Barry Neigut, Bivalves, Mollusks, Lighting Marine Invertebrates

Related FAQs: Tridacnid Identification, Tridacnid Behavior, Tridacnid Selection, Tridacnid Compatibility, Tridacnid Systems, Tridacnid Lighting, Tridacnid Placement, Tridacnid Feeding, Tridacnid Reproduction, Tridacnids 1, Tridacnids 2, Tridacnids 3, Tridacnids 4, Tridacnid Clam BusinessBivalves, Bivalves 2, Lighting Marine Invertebrates,

Tridacnids (actually all life) requires N, P, K.... Measurable Nitrates and Phosphates to hobbyists. W/o these essential nutrients they will die in short order.

clam problem, English, no useful info., using WWM   3/26/08 last night before shutting down my light system on my 140 reef all of the animals and coral were fine open and happy .this morning I awoke to a horrible sight my baby crocea was dead .it is kind of hard to explain what it looked like when I took it out of the tank there was this mass that had the concisty of gel. I will be including a picture . I believe that to be whats left of him. <Bizarre that this should happen so quickly... Your pix are very hard to make out> I was wondering if it could of been a snail .I have heard that there's a snail that attacks clams . <... your English... and no searching...> The clame was in the sand also I don't know if that a facto .also ph 8.2 ammonia 0 nitrate0,nitrite 0. in the picture with the clam the watery looking stuff is like a jelly fish feeling to it . tecture <Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/tridacdisfaqs.htm and the linked files above. B>

Re: clam problem, English, no useful info, using WWM - 3/28/08 I don't know if this is useful information for you or not (and like you said the pictures are not the clearest). The second picture (the one of the snail) looks suspiciously like a LR hitchhiker I removed from my main tank after I caught him feeding on (what I think is) a tube worm or non mobile snail) of some kind. I tried to do some research on the predator at the time and found that it indeed was known to feed on other inverts (especially the non-mobile types). <<I see>> I can't remember where I found it now and tried looking for it, but mine looks kind of like a gray tulip snail. <<Mmm'¦best to 'evict' then>> Since this is the first time I've written I'd also like to say thank you for teaching me that everything (at least most everything) I learned from my mother about keeping a marine tank is incorrect. <<'¦?>> After reading through your pages for the last 6 months or so I'm amazed that her overstocked 29g long does as well. I also wish I had found you before I had setup my tank (a 40g tall) I'd have made very different decision if I had. <<Ah'¦>> Keep up the good work, Jason
<<We are trying. EricR>>

Clam troubles... no data of use, not reading...   2/21/08 Hi! <Howzit?> I have a newly setup 330g main tank and 70g sump setup in December. As a part of the new tank I migrated from a well established 46 gallon reef tank. I had a maxima clam and a Crocea clam I have kept for over 2 years in my 46g tank. However, last week I lost my Crocea clam and my maxima is fading quickly (clam not opening very wide, sinking mantle, bleaching of mantle). The new tank water quality is kept very clean, stable pH, temp, water parameters are great, salinity 1.025, calcium is a bit low but climbing 350-380. <Alkalinity, Magnesium?> I am dosing every other day w/ DT phyto. <... of not much use in this setting> After the Crocea perished I dosed the maxima in a separate container with tank water and heavy dose of DT phyto, despite this the maxima is still declining quickly. The tank is kept under 1600 watts of (4 x 400w HQI halides). The clam is kept on a flat rock laying in the sand substrate. <... may well need to be elevated...> Given the new tank would you suspect: The maxima clam size is about 4". 1.) The tank is to new and does not contain enough natural phyto and other items in water column needed for health of this clam. <...> 2.) A water quality or chemistry problem. <Possibly> 3.) A light problem <Likely> Thanks for all of your help as always! Bryan <Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/tridcacdisf5.htm and the linked files above... You need to know a bunch more... and provide more data... For now, read. Bob Fenner>

Re: clam troubles... lack of nutrient...  2/21/08 Thanks, I did some reading on that URL. <Okay> The maxima perished. Alk is 11 dKH, calc is about 390. ammonia: 0 nitrites: 0: nitrates: barely detectable. I had always thought under halides keeping a clam on the substrate was doable, <Mmmm> I have seen several healthy looking clams in other tanks like this. The tank is 30" tall and the halides are about 7" off the top of the aquarium. I obviously want to figure out what went wrong before buying anything else. <This depth... the light would have to be directly above...> Given the slow decline I didn't speculate it was a pest. <Agreed> The only thing recently I have changed in the tank was the addition of PhosBan media per your teams recommendation. <...! Clams (actually all life... e.g. ADP, ATP...) absolutely require "some" soluble phosphate... This sudden removal may well have been a factor> Within 2 weeks, both clams are gone. Coincidence? <Not likely> I have not tested phosphate prior to this, and I had no reason to believe I had a phosphate problem, I simply added it as a precaution for long term health. <... I would not have done this... there are other, easier means of phosphate limitation, control... Posted on WWM> Is your bet still on light? <Partly... but am hedging/spreading my bets more and more. How about you?> Best Bryan <Bob Fenner>

 

Clams making a fashion statement? Bleached Tridacnids   9/23/07 Hey Gang :) <Lisa> Here I am again with a question. (big surprise huh?) <Oh yes!> I have 3 crocea clams in my tank. They've been there for about a year. They all had pretty good color until about a month or so ago. Now two of them are completely faded, the biggest has gone from purple to brown. They otherwise seem very healthy. The light has not changed since we upgraded in January to a 520 watt system which provides about 5.7watts per gallon to our 90 gallon Oceanic bowfront. I had the water tested Wednesday at the LFS just to double check my own results, and the quality is excellent (Ph 8.3, nitrates 0 nitrites 0, ammonia 0, phosphate 0). They  didn't test calcium, alkalinity was 13. SG is 1.026. <This all looks okay... except that the clams do actually need some nitrate, phosphate... and some folks speculate even ammonia> So knowing lighting hasn't changed, water quality is excellent (everything else is thriving), what can I do to help my clams regain their color? <More nutrient I believe... What do you feed these Tridacnids?> Thanks again so much, I'm lost without y'all. Lisa <You have read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tridacfdgfaqs.htm and the linked files above? Bob Fenner>

Bad

Tridacna stroke? - 6/2/05 I have a Tridacna maxima in my 29gal reef that has been great for the few months I have had it. <Actually says very little unfortunately. It can take up to nine months for a healthy specimen to starve to death. A slow death indeed. This is the case with a lot of Tridacnid species as they don't get all their nutritional needs from light alone.> The past few days he has only opened on one side. <Weird.> I know that is hard to picture but imagine what a clam would look like after having a stroke. He is lying horizontal and the left side is colorful and looks as it has, but the right side is tucked away. <Maybe something irritating the mantle by way of stinging or picking at it?> All other corals, fish and inverts are doing fine. <Doesn't help me to further identify your situation any better without knowing more about your tank. Size is good but what about inhabitants (specifically fish and corals and other inverts), water chemistry, lighting, and any other thoughts that might come to mind. Thoroughness really goes a long way in diagnosis. Can't help much here except possible predation on the mantle or irritation from chemo reactants (i.e.. coral aggression through allelopathy) or again possible starvation.> Is this normal or is my clam in danger? <Very likely in danger> Thanks for your much appreciated help! <Please read through our articles and FAQ response to Tridacnid care. See if there are any questions/answers describing your situation. Thanks for being part of it all. ~Paul>

Clam question Hello there- My father says WetWebMedia has given him lots of great advice- I have a question about Tridacnid clams (purple/blue (not maxima)......I've had a couple for about a year or so, and they both died the other day, both within about 24 hours.  All I could see was what looked like clear snot, and what looked like pieces of sand in the mucus, .....the clams closed up, and they seemed to have a hole in the bottom of them......the only thing that seemed to be near the clams, were brown tiger tail cucumbers. Have you seen this before? Thanks for your help..... DaveB <Hello Dave, Have you fed your clams weekly?  Marine Snow is a good product to use.<<Uhh, not in all's opinion here. This product is a placebo IMO... has VERY little nutritional value>>  It's not necessary to feed daily, a once a week feeding should be enough. <<Barry Neigut suggests a minimum of 3 times per week... and NOT Marine Snow>> Also, do you change your bulbs on a yearly basis?  Clams do require strong light of the proper spectrum.  Just cause the light lights doesn't mean the full spectrum is still there.  Most clams will only do well under metal halide lighting. James (Salty Dog)>  

Clam exudation 3/27/03 Greetings!  I have a blue Tridacna maxima, about 5 inches below the surface of the water under a 175W MH with 40W of fluorescent actinic.  The clam is about two years old.  Recently I have noticed that in the evening, I see a very thin brown strand of  (I assume) Zooxanthellae algae coming out of the exhalant siphon.   <could be... sometimes they are expelled naturally in small packets, other times induced by stress (increase in light as with new bulbs or clarity as with water change or sudden use of carbon)> The clam is well extended and looks great.  Water parameters are great and unchanged, except that I recently (1 month ago) noticed that the pH was dropping to 8.00 during the night.  I slowly used Reef Buffer to raise the pH to about 8.45 during the day, dropping to about 8.30 at night.  Salinity is 1.025 and nitrites are zero, and nitrates are 5ppm.   <all good> I use PolyFilter and an Urchin Pro.  Is this algae discharge normal? thanks tom <likely no worries at all. Be mindful not to overfeed (at risk of clogging gills) with liquid supplements too. Best regards, Anthony>
Re: Clam exudation 3/27/03
Thanks for your response, Anthony.  I have been feeding liquid food, perhaps a little bit more than usual.  This afternoon I noticed some bleached spots on the mantle which weren't present this morning.  The mantle is open/out. <not good signs at all... and rules out coagulated food from overfeeding as the primary. Stress from a physical parameter is more likely now... the sudden influx of a larger than normal bit of freshwater perhaps for belated evap top-off? Dosing supplements in strong concentration near it at the top of the tank (sans dilution in sump or strong stream). Hmmm... many possibilities. Predation is more common in general but would not expectedly cause the bleach spots. Instead we are looking for stress or disease here. Perhaps a new fish or coral added recently without QT brought in a pathogen> Any suggestions? thanks, tom <watch nightly for predators, but otherwise do not disturb while evaluating water quality. A water change is usually helpful too (dilution of the unknown). Anthony>

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