FAQs about Giant Clam Disease, Pests & Predators
Related Articles: Example Chapter
from NMA Reef Invertebrates book, on Giant Clams, Tridacnids, A Brief
Guide to the Selection and Placement of Tridacnid
Clams by Barry Neigut,
Mollusks, Lighting Marine
Related FAQs: Tridacnid Health: Pinched
Mantle Syndrome in Giant Clams by Dr. David Basti, Deborah
Bouchard & Barry Neigut, Tridacnid Disease 1, Tridacnid Disease 2, Tridacnid Disease 3, Tridacnid Health 4, Tridacnid Health 5, Tridacnid Disease 6, Tridacnid Disease 7, & Pest Snails (Pyramidellids...),
FAQs on Giant Clam Disease by Category:
Tridacnid Identification, Tridacnid Selection, Tridacnid Compatibility, Tridacnid Systems, Tridacnid Lighting, Tridacnid Placement, Tridacnid Feeding, Tridacnid Reproduction, Tridacnids 1, Tridacnids 2, Tridacnids 3, Tridacnids 4, Tridacnid Clam Business, Bivalves, Bivalves 2, Lighting Marine
Crypt, velvet or infection? ID help, please...
<Six plus megs of uncropped pix? Why?>
Greetings! I'm unfortunately without microscope and would appreciate some input
on the current malady I see in my tank if you would be so kind.
<How could I, or anyone tell from these images?>
About 30 SPS frags.
Three yellow tangs.
Six line wrasse.
Eight blue green reef Chromis.
Skunk cleaner shrimp.
Tank is a year old. It was moved a year ago from being set up for 12 years
and all livestock was given away. It has all the same live rock as before.
Fish have all been in tank for four months. Corals for about 5 months, with one
being introduced 2 months ago.
Three days ago I did a flatworm exit treatment since I was
finally sick of siphoning out hundreds of flatworms with each weekly water
change. All seemed to go well, and I did a 25% water change at the end, as well
as running activated carbon in a reactor for a day and siphoning as many dead
worms as I could.
Around that time I noticed a little white area on the hippo tang's forehead.
Since then it has grown to a full white forehead and a white spot on either
side. I have attached a picture.
<.... looks like a scratch on the flank.... Physical trauma>
I don't know if I am seeing things or the yellow tangs seem like they may have a
white sheen over their whole bodies, but it is only visible when looking at the
fish from the front. From side view they look normal.
The cardinal seems fine. Six line wrasse seems fine. Chromis' seem fine,
although one of them seems to have a physical injury and a little brown spot in
None of the fish have been scratching. None are breathing rapidly. All have
voracious appetites, with the hippo tang being the most voracious. No hiding.
All swimming out in the open. Gills are not swollen.
Could you please check the picture and my descriptions and tell me if you think
it is crypt or velvet, or possibly some sort of infection brought on by lowered
immune systems due to toxins from the flatworm treatment?
<Can't tell anything from the pix, description>
I would think if it was velvet everything would be dead already, and I am ready
to try and catch all fish and place in a hospital tank and treat if it is
<... no need to move, yes to Velvet>
Please let me know if the picture doesn't come through. I appreciate all that
you do! You guys helped immensely many years ago and all has been smooth sailing
in my tank until this incident.
Thank you! I look forward to your reply.
<Don't panic! Bob Fenner>
Too much light for a squamosa clam?
Good evening WWM Crew,
<Good morrow Wendy>
Thank you for helping people (me) do a better job caring for reef
<A pleasure, honor and desirable duty>
I scour this web site for all sorts of questions and it has been a
Ok, here is the question. Why is my Tridacna squamosa clam browning out?
<Could be a few influences. Happily, am in the process of penning a pc.
for CORU on "Top Tridacnids"; so am more familiar with their husbandry
I believe that I may have too much light, here is why...
165 mixed reef
3 years old
pair clowns, pair Banggai cardinals, Red Sea sail fin tang, various
<Do keep your eyes on these false crabs... can "bug" clams>
3 BTA (keep splitting and I keep the LFS supplied with extras), snails
sps, lps, softies (Montiporas and birds nests doing great, giant
frogspawn and Fungia very happy, Zoanthids open, Ricordeas plump, 2
leathers are full, BTAs at top of tank and happy, chalices growing,
Aqua C EV240 skimmer, LifeReef Sump, LifeReef Calcium reactor, refugium,
mp 40 power head
1.025 specific gravity
80 average temp
<All of the above are fine>
<THIS is trouble. All life needs "some" soluble phosphate...
Whatever means you're employing to extract directly I'd cut back or
remove... AND/OR increase your feeding to the point of registering some
Those are today's readings and they fluctuate very little.
20% water changes each week
The tank is 72" long and 27" deep and 17" wide.
1 Orphek 156 on left side, 1 Orphek 156 on right side, 1 Orphek 72 spot
in middle, 2 Orphek moon light spots in middle, 4 t5 bulbs framing it
all in. Orphek 156 are 8" above water. 72 spot is 12" above water. t5's
are 14" above water.
<Mmm; these are good fixtures, lights, and I doubt that they're too
bright/intense. You might want to borrow a PUR or PAR meter (likely your
LFS have one to lend; considering the gear you list)... and try the
sensor down near the clam>
Clam was first placed in middle of tank on sand under 72 spot, after a
month the clam moved 10" to be under a 156 and tucked against a rock
with slight shade, after 3 months in this location clam has lost its
deep brown with blue edges to be orangey brown with purple edges. Clam
mantle is about 32" away from 156. Clam is about 8", it opens fully
under day lights and closes with fish shadows or pesky hermit crabs.
I have seen a 1/2" bristle worm under the mantle once.
<Not likely trouble. There are a Bazillion (a bunch) of Errantiate
Polychaetes in most all marine environments>
Clam allowed clown pair to lounge in it originally, but now does not.
Clowns do not pester clam, no other fish bother it, hermits seem to
annoy it now when they work on shell.
Should I try to dim 156s to 80%?
t5's on at 9 am off at 7 pm
72 spot on at 10 am off at 6 pm
156 day lights on at 11 am and off at 7 pm
156 moon lights on 7 pm to 10 pm
spot moons in center of tank, 20" above water, on 24 hours
<This is all fine as well>
<I would focus on the Phosphate alone here; and try to get those light
meter readings. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Hair algae growing inside a clam
Hello WWM Crew,
I have a problem with a Tridacna clam for which I haven't found an
Some hair algae started to grow on one side of the clam. I didn't take
care of it right away as I was battling these algaes all over my tank. I
have now won the battle but I noticed that some algae managed to attach
on the inside edge of the shell (note : the algaes I fougnt were green
hair algaes, the ones remaining still look like hair algae but
are red-brown and less soft than the green ones).
<Could be... most anything... not necessarily a Chlorophyte. One can't
"tell" the taxonomic group (Division) of algae simply on the basis of
color. Requires microscopic examination and sometimes other testing
(storage foods et al.)>
It is apparently causing discomfort to the clam as the
mantle stays retracted on this area. I've tried to remove the algaes
several time but I cannot get to the root so I am only breaking the tips
away. It has now been several weeks and I am afraid it will eventually
cause the clam to die. I have several hermit crabs and snails but they
don't seem to either care for this type of algae or don't want to go
inside the clam. The only solution which comes to my mind is to block
the shell with a little piece of wood so that the clam cannot close it
and use tweezers to thoroughly remove the algaes.
However, I am afraid this solution will stress the clam and possibly
kill it. Do you have any other suggestion ?
<... this may be Cyanobacteria... or that in origin, accompaniment...
This IS one case where I would avail myself the use of antibiotics...
Erythromycin of a few sorts is sold in the trade/interest... I would
move the clam to a system w/o other life that might be mal-affected for
this treatment. Search WWM with the terms "chemical algaecides"; read
particularly re BGA>
<Welcome. Bob Fenner, USA>
Re: Hair algae growing inside a clam
Thank you for replying so quickly.
As far as I can tell, the algaes look more like Polysiphonia or
Asaragopsis than Cyanobacteria.
<... again; 'scope... lack of plasmids, nucleus, plasmalemma....
circular single strand of DNA...>
Would chemical removal work as well ? Will it leave the clam unharmed ?
<... IF, then... only BGA treated thus; and in isolation, proper dosage,
What about mechanical removal while keeping the clam open, risky or
assured major damage ?
<I would not continue the mech. means... you need the clam to have good
health and other organisms (biofilm) to settle, occupy the area>
Thank you and best regards
<Am hoping this is clearer. BobF>
Re: Hair algae growing inside a clam from 12/3/13
I never properly thanked you for your advice.
So thank you for your answers, thank you for your website and all the
best in 2014.
<Ah, thank you. BobF>
Help with clam gaping
> I'm hoping someone can help me with my maxima clam. I purchased it from
Pacific East Aquaculture on May 18 at a frag swap. It looked like it was
doing great for over the first three weeks - mantle extended, responsive
when the fish moved over it, new shell growth, intake siphon in a normal
> This past Tuesday evening, I noticed the clam was holding its intake
siphon open more than usual. I did some research and saw this could be due
<... more likely... Read here:
and the linked files at the bottom>
No corals are near the clam and my water parameters were in line, but the
clam had moved a bit and it looked like the mantle was being moved by the
powerheads. I moved the clam slightly back away from the flow on Wednesday
morning and made sure it was sitting on a flat rock. Here's the picture
after I moved the clam. It seemed happy the rest of the day, but Wednesday
night, the intake siphon was open more than usual again.
> On Thursday morning, I decided maybe the clam needed a little more light,
so I increased the intensity of my EcoTech Radion LEDs from 70% to 75%. I
run the Radions from 10am to 11pm in the natural mode. The clam has been
placed directly below one of the pucks of the since I brought it home. I
also added 1 tsp of reef buffer and 1 capful of AquaVitro calcification to
bring up alkalinity and calcium slightly because they were 8.0 and 410,
respectively, when I tested Wednesday night (my tank is 125 gallons)
Magnesium was 1320 and specific gravity was 1.025. I use a chiller, so my
temp is always between 77.5 and 79 degrees. The clam looked happy yesterday
during the day, but in the evening, the intake siphon was held open again,
as you can see in this picture below.
> When I woke up this morning, the clam looked like this.
Once the lights turned on, the clam started to look a little better. Here
are some pictures from about an hour ago. I also included some wider shots
so you can see the placement in my tank.
I tested my water this morning with these results:
pH: (in am) 8.17 (apex probe)
Ammonia: 0 (API)
Nitrite: 0 (API)
Nitrate: 8 (Salifert)
Phosphate: 0.5 (API)
Alk: 8.3 (Salifert)
Calcium: 405 (Salifert)
Magnesium: 1350 (Salifert)
<These are all fine>
Any ideas what may be wrong with my clam and what I should do to help it?
Thanks for any advice.
<Can only guess... perhaps an animal inside the system, maybe in the clam
itself bothering it... I'd dose (3X) iodide-ate and be observant. Bob
|Re: Help with clam gaping
Thanks for the advice, Bob. I will read all of the information you attached.
For the iodide/ate, do you mean I should do one dose three separate times
(like one dose each of the next three days) or 3 times a normal dose all at
<Either will be fine. I'd do all at once now.>
Re: Help with clam gaping 6/14/13
Thanks for the quick response, Bob. I'll let you know how my clam does.
Have a nice weekend,
<And you, BobF>
Fwd: Help with clam gaping 6/15/13
Hi Bob, I dosed the iodide and I was observing the clam. I found two small
snails crawling along the clam's shell.
<Ahh! The predators I alluded to earlier perhaps>
I took them off and got rid of them. They didn't appear to be the pyramid
<Oh, there are other species>
I was reading the information you sent on pinched mantle, too. Do you think
I should freshwater dip the clam or just continue to observe?
<For me, the latter>
Also, the clam definitely seems to do better when the lights are on. Now
that they are dimming for the night, the clam is looking worse. Do you think
I should keep the lights on that side of my tank on all night tonight?
<Worth trying; though I wouldn't leave on full intensity 24/7>
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Clown loach
Thanks for your help, Bob.
<Hope it helps Sue; am a huge fan of Clown Loaches. BobF>
Clam detached from shell 2/18/13
I thought I would find something on the form but everything I see is
about the clams foot or the mantle being split. My clam and now clams
don't have either. About 2yrs ago my Squamosa clam which was about 8-9in
started to year away from the shell.
<Mmm, usually real trouble. Nutrition issue, perhaps aided by some
Slowly day by day it completely tore away from the shell on one side. I
assumed he would slowly waste away so I waited and waited. It's been
2yrs and he's healthy as can be but half of his shell just hangs there.
When he closes up he just pulls himself to one side and does a good job
of it. I've attached a pic to show how good he's doing. I even put a
rubber band around him for 4months to help him reattach but no luck. The
side that's not touching the shell feels like an old hard piece of
leather so it does offer some protection. Hermits even go in there to
clean him out. Now today my maxima which is about 6" has a slight tear
the same way. I introduced an elegance coral to the tank 2 days ago
which is relatively close but the closest point is not where the tear
is. Also could a sting be so powerful it tears a hole in a clam,
and if so why wouldn't the clam just close up?
<Might have tried>
Ultimately if its something different what could it be and how do I
prevent this one from looking like the other.
<Keep Catalaphyllia/s well away (at least a foot)... they're better kept
in silty, shaded settings (see my article on WWM re). Your Tridacnids...
am sure you're familiar w/ the basics of nutrition, supplement use,
iodide-ate... Bob Fenner>
Help. Domino Effect Chemical Disaster
Hi WetWeb Crew!
I must be honest, I am almost embarrassed to be writing in with this issue, but
for the sake of my cherished aquarium... Well you know, I will go to great
I thought my problem began with my maxima clam jumping all over the aquarium,
and possibly losing his byssal filament, however whatever is going on with my
clam may be the result of another issue I had months ago that I thought was
resolved, and here is my shame.
It started with a huge macro algae bloom in my aquarium, I keep most of my macro
in my sump but do enjoy a piece here and there in the display tank tucked behind
a rock as it adds a little height and movement. But it literally bloomed
to where it was choking out my corals, my nitrates were sky high and I couldn't
figure out why so I kept doing water changes. Long story short, I
ended up bringing my whole r/o unit into my lfs only to find out that the TDS
meter was faulty. Everytime I did a water change I was adding more and
more nitrates into my tank.
I Changed out all my filters and di resin and corrected that problem, but
obviously created another with the large amounts of macro algae die off that I
was grabbing out by the handfuls for days and days so that it would not rot in
I do regular water testing, but rarely test my PH, another big shame. I
assumed that since my alk was good at around 7.9 or 8, (good range for a clam I
was told) that my buffers were doing their job. You must be shaking your
head in disbelief by now.
As my clam was still hopping around I did full water testing
<Mmm, too high>
PH 7.4. Uh oh
So I did a lot of research on line to try and figure out why on earth my PH
would be low and my alk be ok. Since I do not have a calcium
reactor, the only item that applied to me was low oxygen or high co2.
I do not have a glass canopy, or any canopy for that matter, but I did open the
window in the room where the aquarium is, adjusted my powerheads and overflow
returns for max surface tension, removed some pvc pipes leading into my sump so
the water now dumps into my sump rather than flows quietly through a pipe.
I have lowered my salinity to just between 1.023 and 1.024 and lowered my temp
from 76 to 74. At some point today I will be purchasing the right size
tubing to attach to my protein skimmer to allow it to suck air from the room to
make bubbles rather than using the sump water. And will add a fan as well.
I have heard that ph tests can often times be wrong,
<Not often, no>
so I took my water to my local LFS and had it tested, it showed the same
results that my test showed.
Next, and this being the only other thing I could think of, since I have a
Salifert kH/alk test, I ran the check solution. Well low and behold the
check solution should have been 6.7 tested at 9.3! So i have been getting a
false reading for my alk for quite some time, in which it appears higher than it
actually is. I quickly ran out and purchased an API kH test and confirmed
that my readings were somewhere around 100 ppm. Now my head is swimming.
So I have been dosing over the past 48 hours with b ionic to increase my alk.
It is still low, according to the API test it has increased but only within a
range of between 100 and 200 ppm. I have been dosing every 24 hours to increase
on a consistant basis and not all at once.
So now you may be asking why I bored you with all that useless information about
oxygen in my tank. Well the reason for that is because while my alk is
rising, my ph has not budged at 7.4. I understand it probably doesn't
adjust proportionately, but I performed an "oxygen test" by removing a cup of
water from my aquarium, placing an airstone in it for a few minutes and
rechecking the PH. In just those few minutes, my ph boosted to 8. So I am
still thinking I have a problem. And incidentally, which I also believe
has something to do with this whole situation, a friend of mine set up some
aquariums around the same time I upgraded from my 90 to 125. Maybe 8 or 9
months ago. I went to visit this week and the back of his aquariums are
loaded with coraline algae. I have none. Not even a little.
I know that low alk and ph make it difficult for calcium to be absorbed.
<This is so; yes>
I have reached my limit of knowledge and understanding of water chemistry for
now, and am now turning to you for expert assistance. I can get my alk up
to where it should be, but my ph is not moving.
<Don't worry, obsess re this... it will "come up" in time>
Other than what I mentioned above, I know of no other way to raise the o2,
except by using Kalkwasser to push out the excessive co2.
<Mmm, well... IF you want to further your physics, chem. knowledge, practical
application, you might consider adding an ozonizer (and measure for RedOx)...>
But I have no understanding or experience with Kalkwasser and read it can
actually cause damage if used improperly. And don't know if a one time
shot would be the answer.
<One time? Not really worthwhile unless one is just trying to precipitate out
I don't have so many corals that dosing is no longer an option. I
actually prefer to dose over having a calcium reactor.
Incidentally my mother, who has been recently diagnosed with lung cancer, (and
yes I may have not kept up religiously with aquarium maintenance during this
time, but managed the bare minimum) has offered use of her oxygen for a
few hours (she is NOT on liquid oxygen) if that would help infuse oxygen into my
tank and raise my PH.
<Not the route I would take, no>
The woman is a saint. However tempting as this is, I suspect that
it would only be a temporary fix even if it is a feasible idea just as adding an
airstone. I need to find the root. What else can I look for, do or test?
<Solutions... like adding a good deal more easily soluble substrate (DSB) in the
I have not been dosing calcium so I am not sure why it is at 500, unless it is a
by product of decay created from animals not being able to absorb the calcium
correctly. Or my Salifert calcium test is also inaccurate. My
lfs is retesting ALL of my result this evening when they open. Going
forward I will always have separate tests to use as confirmation for all my
And I will not assume a test is accurate just because it is expensive.
But for now, if the bottom line is that my PH remains low, as all my other
chemicals are coming back into balance, what in the world does that mean and how
do I fix it?
<Again, not to panic. Do read a while here:
I raised my clam up as well, and he has not hopped around off this higher rock.
I don't think he anchored himself to it though. He is still a beautiful
color and opens, but his mantle seems flimsy and he does not seem as quick to
respond if I wave my hand over him. But he is not dead yet and I will
continue to fight for his survival, as well as everything else in my tank that
is being affected by this imbalance.
<Take your time... Bob Fenner>
Re: Help. Domino Effect Chemical Disaster
Hi Wet Web Crew
Just an update and a few more thoughts regarding my chemical imbalance
issues. Firstly, I am happy to report that I have not lost my
clam. He did re-anchor himself for a week or so, then moved again.
I have since altered my lighting schedule and moved him up to mid tank
where I am happy to say he has not moved from for a week or so, however
I am quite sure he has not anchored himself again as of yet. Sigh
<This takes time>
Sadly I am relatively certain my sandsifting starfish did not make it
through the PH ups and downs.
In a nutshell, I have added more substrate, began aerating my rodi
water for 24 hours prior to adding the salt, increased the frequency of
smaller water changes to try and lower the calcium levels and have been
dosing almost daily to try and maintain alk of at least above 8 and
magnesium above 1200 to no avail.
<Something is up here... we need to start back "at some beginning">
I have replaced my test kits and double checked their results with my
LFS, and purchased back ups so that I could continue to double check my
results at home.
In total frustration I began earnestly reading your sight to find
any commonalities with other people who are having similar issues,
and behold I found a whole thread dedicated to Coralife Reef Salt users
who are experiencing the same types of issues. I have been using
Coralife Reef salt since I upgraded to my 125 about 8 or 9 months ago.
So I mixed a batch to 1.026 and measured it. Alk was 7.4, Mag 1170
and calcium 500 (at least, as my test only goes up to 500).
I think the mystery has been solved.
<I do agree>
My tank contained mostly soft corals and a few LPS that all seemed to
look good, so I never did much water testing, that is until I got my
clam and began to notice these issues. Now in hindsight I am
beginning to notice things with some of my LPS corals that make me say
hmmm. Such as big heads of candy cane coral in which
the polyps seem to continually divide and divide, but no new branches
ever form. I could not frag them if I wanted to, as I may have up
to 7 heads on one branch. I have never seen them like this in my
LFS. That, and the lack of any coralline algae which I mentioned
in my previous email. Perhaps the high alk and low PH is the cause
of all my Zoanthids dissolving?
Regardless, in reading your sight <site> I see that Tropic Marin appears
to be a good reef salt, if you have any other suggestions it would be
<This is a superb, consistent product>
But before I change to that, do you think there would be any benefit in
using a non reef salt, like instant ocean marine salt, for several water
changes, due to its lower concentration of calcium in order to lower my
<Worth trying, but I'd go w/ the TM product directly>
I realize it also has lower Mag, but I could temporarily keep that
balanced by dosing if necessary.
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Re: Help. Domino Effect Chemical Disaster 9/23/12
Thank you as always for your response. You mentioned that something seems
off, and needing to go back to "some beginning". I am hoping that my
lack of testing when my tank contained mostly softies, and then my
subsequent upgrade to a larger aquarium and change to what I believed was a
better salt mix at the time was the actual beginning. Incidentally, I used
Reef Crystals prior to my upgrade and the sides and back of my prior tank was
covered with coralline algae. I believed at the time everything "looked"
good, hence the lack of testing. I hope that sounds about right, because
throughout this ordeal I believed I had found the beginning of my problems
several times, only to continue to trace it back even further.
<Sorry re... am very tired, from camping, driving... the "something" is almost
certainly the suspected salt mix>
I do apologize for my previous spelling errors. I believe I was a
little bleary eyed from reading so much.
<I do understand>
And again I thank you so much for your help. Your site is invaluable and I
am certainly hoping you don't become disheartened with regulars like me.
<Not at all... in fact, it is because of intelligent, sensitive persons as
yourself that we produce WWM>
Hopefully I will see improvement from this point on, and will be happy to let
I hope I did not speak too soon! Maxima Clam beh., Clownfish
comp. - 8/28/12
In my previous email I mentioned that my blue maxima clam and his BTA
friend were thriving in my aquarium. My clam has since left me
with a question. I hope I did not speak too soon. He was
approximately two inches when I purchased him about 8 months ago.
He has grown about a quarter of an inch since then, maybe more, but I am
sure less than a half of an inch.
<This family, species does grow slowly when small>
At the time I purchased him, I placed him inside a skeletonized half
shell of a much bigger clam that I purchased with some live rock.
I placed some substrate inside the empty half shell and placed the
little maxima clam on top. Within 24 hours he secured himself to
the shell and as far as I know has been happy as a clam ever since.
Well last night he jumped shell. I found him this morning open and
beautiful, sitting in the substrate next to his old home. My first
thought was, well maybe he was outgrowing his home. My concern
came when I looked at the empty clamshell that he previously lived in.
I thought I saw the head of a feather duster worm, but upon closer
inspection it resembled a white muscle with a bunch of filaments
sticking out of it, and it was attached to the empty clamshell.
Well time to panic, right? Could this be his byssal filament?
Can clams leave part of it behind if they decide to move?
<Mmm, not usually>
If this is a serious problem, how long before he deteriorates, because he
still looks very colorful, is responsive opening and closing properly if
i wave my hand above him. He placed himself straight up, not on
his side or anything like that. He has not reattached himself to
anything yet, so i placed a large flat rock underneath him and the
substrate, because I really do not want him to attach himself to the
glass, I like to know that in an emergency I can relocate him if
necessary without injuring him.
Perhaps what I saw attached to the empty clamshell was not even part of
my precious maxima. That is the best I am hoping for. OK I
just lied to you, the best I am hoping for is for you to tell me that
this is some form of asexual reproduction
and soon I will have a another baby clam on my hands, but since I have
never run across that in any of my reading on clam care, I will chalk
that up to fantasy.
My major concern is that assuming the worst and he did leave part of his
byssal filament behind, is this normal? Can he survive it?
What are the signs of deterioration?
<Mmm, loss of responsiveness, colour...>
I have a sand sifting star, indigo dotty back, cleaner wrasse and four
clownfish. The clam is more than 6 inches away from the BTA.
Nothing that I can think of that would be picking on the maxima clam.
He is placed in the bottom of the tank where he is catching the spread
between a 10k led over the center of my tank and a 65k led on the left
side of my tank. As always, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Incidentally Bob, if I do decide to remove a pair of my clownfish to
mate, perhaps causing the next dominant male to become female, would I
ever be able to add the clownfish back into my display tank or would
having two females cause a blood bath?
<If there's room, not usually a problem>
Thank you as always,
<Be of good cheer, Bob Fenner>
Re: I hope I did not speak too soon! 8/29/12
Bob thank you for your quick response. Just one more question if
you don't mind. If the clam is damaged in some way and will not
survive, how long of a deterioration process should I expect?
<Likely a few days>
In other words, when can I stop holding my breath?
<The same period>
It has been 24 hours and he looks/acts fine. If he makes it 48
hours, can I start to think he may survive?
Or is it more like weeks or months? I feel very confident that if
he secures himself to his new home within the next few days then I may
be out of hot water, but barring that scenario, if he continues to
look/act good, when can I start thinking we may have made it over the
hump, and besides watching him, is there anything else I can do?
<A boost (one time) in iodide-ate dosing is prudent. BobF>
Distressed Deresa Clam
I have had this Deresa clam for a year now. You can see the ridge half
way down the shell, this is where the clam was when I purchased it and
it has grown about 4 inches since that time. There has always been good
mantle extension on this specimen, and I've never seen it less than 90%
open during the light hours. Yesterday morning, however, the clam looked
like the picture below. There is a white, skin-like film that extends
from the edge of the shell, and the clam will not open more than maybe
I feed the tank DTs every third day, I skim heavy, and I do frequent
water changes. My nitrates are .5ppm, phosphates 0,
<These and most all other chemo- auto- trophs need measurable HPO4>
alk 8, cal 420, salinity 1.026, Mag 1500.
I have a baby maxima and a 4'' crocea that are both doing fine. in fact
you can see the maxima bottom right.
One thing that I read in one of Bob's posts is that "chemical
supplementation is a leading cause for clam death" and I'm wondering
what was meant by that?
<Too much of some commercial products, especially if haphazardly
sprinkled/poured directly on Tridacnids can be deleterious>
I dose Lugol's iodine once a week in the appropriate amounts and have
I added a dose of Kent essential elements
<These additions should be made through water change outs... i.e., mixed
in w/ the new water ahead of time, NOT placed directly in the
yesterday (but only after the clam was looking like this, it did not
help), and I've also been dosing an Amino Acid product for SPS, but I
have been for months and it hasn't affected anything negatively until
maybe now...could the amino acids be culprits? did I overload the clam
<Possibly the Kent product>
What do you think is going on here?
<Perhaps nothing... maybe a sting, bite from a tank mate... likely
long-term phosphate deprivation>
Do clams molt or shed after periods of intense growth?
These pictures are from yesterday, looks the same today, still responds to
<I'd remove whatever means of HPO4 removal you're employing... feed your
fishes a bit more... Bob Fenner>
Re: Distressed Deresa Clam
Thank you for your diagnosis. I recall that I changed my RowaPhos media the
very day before the clam started acting up.
<Mmm, may be related events>
I've done this many times before, but it had been a few months since my
last media change and perhaps it shocked the clam or the clam got light
shock from sudden water clarity?
<Not likely the light>
The thing I don't understand is how it was able to grow so quickly if it
has been deprived of phosphates.
<Some is being "produced" from outside feeding mostly... on a
continuous/punctuated basis... You're caught in
Western/Linear/Uni-directional thought... the universe is much different>
Don't they need some measure of phosphates to build their shells just like
If you think it's appropriate I can start target feeding the clam some phyto
to boost nutrient uptake??
<"Phyto" products for aquariums are about worthless for this application
(food)... Do see my further comments re, posted/archived on WWM, in
publications elsewhere if interested. B>
Dying new derasa?
Hi wonderful experts! I got brave a few days ago and
mail-ordered a four inch derasa clam.
<Mmm, where from? As in cultured... or
It looked totally healthy when it arrived. I gave it a four-hour
acclimation and carefully, lightly set it on the DSB aragonite
(I've seen some experts say to avoid setting derasa's directly
on sand, and others who recommend it.)
<... should be fine... read here re:
Water parameters are great: Temperature=77, pH=8.2, calcium=410,
alkalinity=9.5, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate
<... need some HPO4, NO3... absolutely necessary
It's lit by reef-capable LEDs. There are several stony
corals in the same tank, all thriving. And one token fish, a
three-stripe damsel. No crabs, shrimp, et cetera. A handful
of small Stomatella snails and Asterinas. Lots of assorted pods
who love the live phytoplankton I feed the tank daily.
The first two days the clam looked fantastic: fully open, mantle
slightly over the lip of the shell, slowly pulsing.
The third day the clam hardly opened and the mantle was slightly
retracted from the lip.
Today, the fourth day, the mantle is retracted a good half inch below
the lip of the shell, even coming unattached from the shell in a few
places, and the intake hole is gaping wide.
Now I am tempted to just pull it from the tank and toss it, because I
don't want it to die and nuke the whole tank. Or is this just
But it was doing fabulously for the first two days, and now two days
later it looks like it's rapidly dying. Any thoughts?
<Could be lack of nutrient, imbalance of Mg w/ Ca... an
imported pathogenic disease... Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/HighInvertInd.htm
scroll down to the tray on Bivalves, Giant Clams. Bob
Re: Dying new derasa? 4/2/12
"Could be lack of nutrient, imbalance of Mg w/ Ca... an imported
Bob - Thanks for the quick reply! It's a moot point now,
because the clam was so deteriorated this morning that I got rid of
it... too risky for the rest of the tank. I noticed that the foot
was completely disintegrated, tattered and almost gone. But
I'm still left with the curiosity of its manner and rate of
<MANY such clams are virtually DOA collected from the wild;
particularly from Vietnam>
For two days it thrived, and then suddenly, literally overnight,
it began to die. Within two more days it was
disintegrating! I had that clam for only four days, and the first
two days it looked great. Would any of the items you suggested
have caused nearly instantaneous transition from thriving to rapidly
dying? (I'm not questioning you... I just don't know,
even after reading a lot on WWM and two entire books on giant
clams.) It's as if someone poured poison in the tank, but
this certainly did not happen.
It's just my wife and me here. Also, I have a half
dozen peaceful stony corals in the tank, and they are all in excellent
shape, as well as the one fish.
I read somewhere that clams do not like air bubbles inside them.
The shipping bag was not full of water. If it was jostled a lot
during shipping, air likely would have entered the clam. Might
this be the cause of this rapid death?
<Please read where you've been referred.
What is growing on my Crocea
Clam?/Ascidian ID 3/23/12
Good evening folks,
I purchased this Crocea clam from the LFS roughly three weeks
ago. Last evening, I noticed this hitchhiker and I’m
curious what it may be. The clam is 3” – 3.5”, so the
hitchhiker pictured is fairly small. I noticed it when the
clam retracted its mantle in response to the light array
transitioning to night mode. It does not appear to have a
shell of any kind. Like the clam, it responds to
light/shadow changes by retracting what appear to be its
siphons. I did not notice this critter when I purchased the
clam and my QT does not have lighting adequate for the clams
requirements so it went directly into the display tank after a
drip acclimation. Any help identifying the creature and
risks would be wonderful!
<Appears to be an Ascidian, a Tunicate and pose no risks to
other life. Is not uncommon to see Tunicates attached to
bivalves in the wild.>
Incidentally, my apologies for the poor color balance of the
photo. My camera phone does not take accurately
representative photos under fluorescent lighting.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Baby clam?/Clam ID?
I found this attached to my new crocea clam. At first I just
thought it was a piece of old shell from maybe another clam. I
tried to (gently) to pull it off but it's good and stuck, but
pliable. Since I got the crocea the little piece has moved up
it's shell maybe 1/4 inch. Yesterday I noticed that it reacts
to shadows just like my crocea - slams shut and pulls in the
little white frill you can see on its upper edge. Could it be a
baby crocea? Maybe some other type of clam or oyster? I can't
seem to hunt down any pictures online of a crocea that small. Any
<Do you like oysters on the half shell?>
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Bivalve, Pinna? B
|Re Baby clam?/Clam ID? 3/1/12
Sorry if I seem daft but you're saying this is in fact an
oyster? Would it hurt to leave it?
<Sure looks like an oyster to me if what I'm looking at is
what you are referring to. Is fine to leave in the
<You're welcome Angela. James (Salty Dog)>
Can you ID these hitchhikers growing on my clam shell
Hello Bob, James or
other possible responsive crew member,
I have attached some photos of some hitchhikers that must've
been on my clam when I got him. They started small and are
clearly growing. I have two other of these besides the three on
my clam in my tank attached to the live rock. They do not move.
Initially when they were little I thought they were Tube Worms or
a Vermetid Snail so I wasn't too concerned. Now I'm
wondering if they are Aiptasia Anemones
or Hydroids. I'm not sure as they seem to
have characteristics of all of these. Please advise. It
doesn't appear that they are bothering anything. In fact, as
you can see in the photos no matter where I move the smaller
clam, he always finds his way right back to the bigger clam and
prefers to be adjacent to him for some reason. Anyway, It
doesn't look like these organisms were disturbing the mantle
on my bigger clam even though they were touching. I was concerned
because my husband had one of these hitchhikers on his maxima
clam in his tank, and when he removed it with tweezers
(did not expose the clam to air) the clam later died. I think it
was related as the clam was doing fine, and there was nothing to
indicate any other reason it should've died. After he pulled
it out the clam stopped opening and died within a few days.
In the photos, the smaller clam on the left has three of them
growing out of his shell. The biggest organism is in the front
right on the clam in the photos and two smaller ones at the top
right on the other side of the clam.
I moved him to allow me to touch the organisms so that you could
see what they looked like when disturbed, and I wanted to try to
get a better photo.
I have a 70 gallon display with DSB and 40 gallon refugium with
DSB, Live Rock, rubble, Tisbe Copepods and Chaetomorpha Algae.
AquaC EV-180 protein skimmer, and I change carbon in a media bag
under the return for the protein skimmer every two weeks along
when I do water changes. I have a Wavemaker with Koralia Power
Heads, covered with mesh and sponge filters in the overflow box
and one power head as well on intake and outtake in the refugium
which I clean twice a week. Latest test results
ph 8.4 lights on, 8.25-8.3 lights off.
temp 78 degrees
I recently started dripping Kalkwasser, and it seems to be
working out fine. It raised my PH slightly, but it was slowly and
now it's constant.
My calcium consumption rate is increasing as my corals and other
livestock are growing, so I test daily and dose if needed.
<I encourage you to read re Magnesium, test for this as
distorted ratios can cause troubles, in particular when
My tank inhabitants include:
1 Ocellaris Clownfish
1 Red Linckia Starfish (ordered a Fromia, but they sent me one
labeled as a Linckia)
1 Mandarin Dragonet-he eats most of the frozen foods I feed as
well as copepods
4 clams, One Maxima and three Crocea
Yellow Sun Corals
Orange Sun Corals
1 Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp
1 Blood Red Fire Shrimp
2 Orange Spot Nassarius Snails
Bumble Bee Snails
A few LPS towards the bottom of the tank-one Scolymia, a colony
of Trumpet Coral, a purple Blastomussa, Dendrophyllia
Several SPS towards top of tank-Pink Birdsnest and Acropora
2 different Zoanthus sp. colonies
3 different colored Ricordea Florida Mushrooms
1 Hawaiian Feather Duster that has produced several more
Several yellow Feather Dusters that have multiplied as well.
I have two Orphek PR-156W LED light fixtures on a daylight,
moonlight cycle of 12 hours daylight, 8 hours moonlight, four
hours total darkness. While the display is in moonlight/dark, the
refugium T5's are on. I feed everyone a daily cocktail that
varies including frozen Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, Hikari Blood
Worms, Rotifers, Phytoplankton, Oyster Feast, etc. except the
RBTA which I feed 2-3 times per week with baby clams or raw
shrimp. I soak all my food with Selcon, and I recently ordered
Vita-Chem and will be including that in my foods as well. I
target feed the polyps on my Sun Corals daily. Even thought my
parameters are great and my water is clear thanks to the carbon,
skimmer, pods, filter feeders and Chaeto, I'm starting to get
quite a bit of algae growing on my live rock and equipment, so
I'm planning to add a small Zebrasoma tang to a quarantine
tank once it's cycled then to the display after 4 weeks to
take care of this.
I wrote a book as I want you to have all the information in case
I need to destroy these hitchhikers so you can tell me the best
plan of attack. I saw the preferred recommendations include
injecting vinegar, Joe's juice, buying a Nudibranch that only
eats anemones (but I have a RBTA) and Red Sea Aiptasia X.
<The last is my current fave>
I don't want to upset my well balanced setup.
<Mmm, perhaps better/best to just wait then... as you state,
the Glass Anemones don't appear to be mal-affecting
Thank You as always for your dedication, passion and information
<Welcome! Bob Fenner>
|Re: re: Can you ID these hitchhikers
growing on my clam shell please? 1/26/12
Do these anemones pose any threat being on my clam like that?
I've heard stories that they are ok at first, then become
aggressive as they get bigger. I read the reviews on Marine Depot
regarding the Red Sea Aiptasia X. Most are positive, but a few say
that the Aiptasia came back in droves. Have you found this to be
true in your experience?
<... see WWM re>
Also, will this product harm my clam or RBTA at all?
<Could; yes, but not likely if treated in situ>
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly and for all your help both
on your site and in questions. You are a very valuable resource and
have helped me an avid reefer. L
<Ah good. BobF>
Clam, hlth. 11/27/11
Hey Wet Web Media Crew!
Wanna thank you all for your time, effort and patience, providing
everyone with all this information. Basically my question is,
there seems to be some sort of bubble growing underneath my clam
should i be worried about this?
<Mmm, yes... Involvements with the byssus can be
I believe the clam is a T. squamosa,
about 3 inches long, a friend had it in his tank for roughly 3
months, i was actually with him when he bought it, but apparently
has grown out of his tank (he has a nano) so i am the proud new
owner of this clam.
Parameters, although I'm not sure are needed for this
Amm - 0
Ni - 0
Na - undetectable with api test kit
Phosphates - 0.00 with a Hanna checker
<Mmm, Tridacnids, all photosynthates, need some, measurable
Nitrate and Phosphate...>
(is this possible? i test my q/t tank with it as well and it
shows around 0.3 phos, so i guess it is working properly but
there is still algae growth in my sump so there must be
phosphates still right?)
<Yes and yes; though the algae may well be absorbing most all
Ca - 480
Alk - 3meq/l
mg - 1600 - should i try to lower this?
<Mmm, t'were it me, mine, I'd lower both Ca and Mg,
but if you're leaving, causing the Calcium to be this high,
I'd leave the Mg where it is>
ph - 8.1
temp - 77/78
Anyway, attached are a couple pics of the clam with the bubble it
is on the right side corner closest to the sps coral, my first
thought was some sort of vermetid snail, but now I'm thinking
it might be coming from the foot of the clam. Clam does not look
stressed in anyway, reacts normal when it is shaded, as in
retreats into the shell and i don't see any sort of gapping.
If a better pic is needed let me know, this is from my iphone,
but i can get my hands on a digital SLR.
Thanks for your time,
<Let's start w/ obvious questions. Is this Clam placed on
a piece of rock under the sand here? It appears to be too deep...
What is the PAR value where it's placed? What do you feed it,
the tank period?
DO read here:
and the linked files at bottom. Bob Fenner>
Re: Clam, Tridacnid, hlth. 11/28/11
So I read over the article, it has stated that T squamosa should
have rock underneath to attach the foot, as you were probably
going to suggest. Should I do this?
I am assuming the clam has already attached its foot to the glass
at the bottom of the tank, would removing it do more harm than
<Use a new single-edged razor blade...>
If not, what would be a good way to remove the clam so I can put
it on top of rocks?
Par value and lighting - I do not have equipment to determine Par
<Look to borrow from a shop (LFS) or a hobby club, fellow
but I think my lighting is more than sufficient, although it is
at the bottom of the tank, it is a very shallow aquarium, only 14
" in height, and after overflow and roughly an inch of sand
we are looking at closer to 11/12 " of water. I run a 250
watt Metal Halide, the bulb itself is a double ended phoenix
<Too high a temp. See the piece/article by myself and Calfo,
linked where you were previously referred>
along with one of those new LED Kessil 150A 15,000 K (which I
have been more than impressed with). Both hanging roughly a foot
away from the water. Bulb on the halide would be 5 months old,
and I change the bulb every 6-7 months.
Feeding the tank - I do not generally feed the tank much,
basically once a week for the past month I have been feeding reef
roids 1 teaspoon in about 120 gallons of water, I haven't
noticed much difference and I might just stop it all together. I
do however feed live Tisbe and Tigger pods, once a week each, I
have a mandarin dragonet so I will not stop. However I will start
to cultivate my own pods to cut costs, and after reading how easy
it is on your site it would be stupid not to. Finally for the
fish it is once a day either New Life Spectrum Flakes or sinking
pellets, and once a week frozen Mysis.
Right now I am assuming the best course of action would be moving
the clam, and placing it on top of some rock/rubble so it can
attach the foot.
If this would cause to <too> much stress, please advise as
I would suspect the foot has already attached to the glass and I
can only see that the removal of the clam would cause the foot to
Again, thanks for your time and help
<Keep reading. B>
matatasi Flatworm... Clam et al. eater 11/16/11
By perusing your site, I have determined that we had & may still
have one or more of the Tridacna-eating flatworms in
I lost 2 clams in July, but also many snails. Then in August, I caught
a HUGE flatworm. Grey-Brown, mottled. I figured it ate the snails but
did not ID the thing at the time or else I would have realized it ate
the clams too. We caught this thing and took it out but it broke into
pieces. I tried to pick up all the pieces (at night, in my pajamas,
holding a flashlight) but one may have escaped.
<Best to siphon out>
Forward to October. I still have 3 clams left. Start seeing dead snails
again. Then another clam dies. Two weeks later, another clam, and two
weeks after that, my last clam (this past weekend). All 5 clam deaths
in hindsight match exactly the MO of what happened to other
people's clams known to be eaten by a flatworm (by my
<Did you treat this system w/ an Anthelminthic... an anti-worm agent
to rid it of this Polyclad?>
Took the last clam out and guess what crawled from his shell? A
flatworm. This time I ID'd it, it is the clam eater.
I used flatworm medicine and did WC...but I think the medicine is
really for planarians.
<Should work on/for all Platyhelminths...>
Will it kill the worm(s) I have?
<What is the active ingredient? Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/fltwmchemcont.htm
and here: http://wetwebmedia.com/fshwrmidcuref.htm>
And how many do you think I could possibly have? Will I ever be able to
keep clams again?
Thank you in advance for your response!
<And you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Possible dying clam
I noticed this morning that my clam has not opened.
<<What type of Clam? Am going to assume for the purposes of this
response that it's a Tridacnid'¦but in the future please
be specific with the species if possible.>>
I can see just a small portion of the mantels inside the shell.
<<Is the mantle still on the brim or outer edges of the shell or
has it begun to wane or recede to the point where you can clearly see
the smooth lining of the inner shell?>>
I've had this clam for about 3 years (not sure of its age when
purchased - and don't really know their longevity in
<<Again it depends on species, some fare much better in captivity
than others but three years seems relatively short. Many aquarists and
public institutions have Tridacnids that are decades old. Current data
suggests they do not perish simply do to age (giving them a great
potential life span) if they do perish it's usually due to
something environmental, disease or predation'¦the latter of
which most captive Tridacnids don't have to deal with if purchased
responsibly. There are reports of large T. Gigas surpassing the century
Should I give it a few days or remove it ASAP - I don't want to
tank. It's a 125 display with 30g refugium. Water parms are fine
CA=440; Phos=0; pH=8.3).
<<The parameters look good, though keep an eye on your alkalinity
as your 440 calcium ppm has a direct correlation with this, the more
dissolved calcium carbonate in the system the more difficult it will be
to maintain a stable balance of alkalinity, though if you're using
a reactor it likely is handling this ratio for you. As for the clam,
without more detail (or even better yet a picture) it is difficult to
diagnose the problem. >>
Would appreciate your advice.
<<You are correct in your worry that a deceased Tridacnid can
fowl up a system and it is best to watch for early warning signs and
remove it before it begins to decay in your system. I had to make a
similar tough call recently at a public aquarium I volunteer at with
one of our mid-sized T. Gigas, and eventually came to the unfortunate
conclusion that the animals chance of recovery was so low it wasn't
worth the risk of leaving it in the system to die and create organic
carbon issues. For checking out your clam I recommend a few of our
articles (but still would be more than happy to help you in the
decision making if you provided more details or a picture like I
mentioned above'¦and some more details about the tank as
well; other inhabitants, lighting, placement of clam, species of clam.)
If you start to witness animals in your tank that don't
readily/normally display a diet for healthy Tridacnids start to snack
on this clam (such as smaller fish and certain ornamental shrimp) this
means that they sense it is on it's last legs and are not attacking
so much as they are trying to recover the remains, if you notice this,
it's a good indicator that it's time to remove the clam if the
system isn't large enough to handle the decay.>>
And this last one if you need assistance in id'ing your clam
<<To you as well.>>
Re Possible dying clam 8/29/11
<<Welcome back Gene.>>
Thank you for your response. My apology for not identifying the
<<No worries, it's just important to know the specifics so
we/I can further advise you.>>
It was a Crocea. Notice, I said 'was'. I decided to check the
stability of the clam knowing that if the foot was still well grounded
on the rock, it was likely still alive. As it turned out, it was not. I
removed it today.
<<Probably the best decision for the overall health of the
What seems odd to me is the swiftness with which it died. I saw no
signs of distress until this morning. I do run a CR and rechecked my
parms after writing you. CA is actually very high at 560 and KH is at
12. I recalibrated the pH probe and found pH at 8.07 not 8.3.
<<These environmental parameters would be my main guess, Calcium
carbonate levels are too high and affecting alkalinity and clearly your
pH. T. crocea is more sensitive than other Tridacnid species and when
things go bad for clams, they go bad quick..>>
Other corals seem fine and the fish show no signs of distress at this
<<They are more resistant but given time will show issues as
Of course, there could be other parms that I can't measure that may
be in play here.
Again, my thanks for your informative reply.
<<Anytime...something else for you to read as well http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
Crocea Clam Issues/Tridacna Systems/Health
I have a question about my crocea clam who has been in my tank
for over a year now. As you can see in the picture, there are
spots (circled in red) on the mantle which appear bleached. It
has not always had these spots, though I can't really
pinpoint when they developed. In addition there on one side of
the shell there is an organism (circled in yellow) which is a
sort of transparent black color. You can see there are a number
of siphons coming off this thing. Is this an actinian?
<No, appears to be a tunicate colony. An actinian is a sea
anemone in the order of Actinaria.>
Its been there for at least 6 months. I tried cleaning it off
with a toothbrush when I first noticed it, but I probably
didn't get it all because it came right back. Neither issue
seems to bother the clam very much in an obvious way. You can see
from the second pic, there continues to be steady and constant
growth. The photo was taken first thing in the morning after
actinics came on, but before metal halide.
This particular reef tank is 65g with a 29g sump/fuge. It is
about two years old. Houses a mix of sps and lps corals and very
few fish (2 ocellaris, a Pseudochromis porphyreus and a yellow
watchman goby) . There's a clean up crew and lately we've
had a population explosion of snails and feather dusters. It sits
about 8 inches under a single 250w hqi MH at 10K, supplemented by
4 39w T5s. Right now I've got Wave Point Coral Wave bulbs in
there (very pink). <??> The clam itself is just over a foot
beneath the light source. This is a pretty low nutrient tank so
basic chemistry is consistently at 0 including nitrates and
phosphate. Daytime pH is 8.5, night time 8.1, dKH is 8. I have
not tested calcium recently because the only thing that gets
dosed regularly is Kalk from top off water that runs through a
Kalk stirrer. The tank is fed pretty heavily once a day and
sometimes twice with a variety of foods including rod's food,
oyster feast, some pellet and Nori.
The tank is basically thriving and the clam seems to be doing so
too. I just want to make sure these two issues are not of long
term concern but if so, what is your opinion on the action to
take. Also, will those bleached spots ever fill back in?
<I believe you problem lies in the sterility of your system.
Tridacna actually prefer and use nitrates in the water. Suggest
you read here and articles/FAQs found at the foot of the
Thanks in advance!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Maxima clam doing very bed/ dying 1/12/11
My problem is the clam.
My system is 60 g hex, 154 w of t5 HO light fixture is 3"
from the water (2 marine Glo and 4 power Glo), 80 lb LR, 20 lb
LS, Fluval 4, remora hang-on AquaC, uv sterilizer 9w, chiller,
2-koralia2 powerhead, 1- koralia1 Power head , 1- polario 15 ml
Water condition: salt 1024,
<A smite low>
temp 77, nitrate 10, ammonia 0, phosphate 0,
<Umm, here's at least one fatal error. HPO4 is an
essential nutrient for Tridacnids...>
nitrite 0, calcium 470,
<High... what is your Mg?>
iodine 0.03, ph 8.2, kH 100
Stocked with 1- blue hippo, 1 -yellow tang, 3- yellowtail damsel,
1- four and 1- three-stripe damsels, 1- maroon clownfish, 1-
Dottyback bicolor plus some crabs and snails
Corals: green Sinularia, Candycane, torch , Galaxea, sun polyp,
maze coral, brain coral Favites, mushrooms, Zoanthids, red
Blastomussa, Echinophyllia, spider sponge and blue Tridacna
I bought the 6 inch clam 3 months ago placed it on the rock work
about 7" from the surface of the water. The clam always
showed its mantel with nice colors but never opened fully. About
two weeks ago a flame angel started picking at it and the clam
retracted the its mantel and stayed closed, slowly trying to open
but the angel would bite it and he would hide again.
After about 6 days of abuse (week ago) I was able to remove the
angel and take it back to the Store. The clam looked better right
away until two days ago it shrunk into its shell and its not
moving. The shell is slightly open about 3/8 gap, I can see
inside it and observe a nice color but it's not
I have looked on the wwm and internet for information on this
dilemma with out a any result. I feel my clam has little time
left if it's not already gone. Please respond as soon as you
can. I have attached a picture of the clam as it looks right now.
<Mmm, I'd remove whatever chemical filtrant/s you're
employing... perhaps feed this animal directly. Bob
clam doing very bed/ dying 1/13/11
Dear Mr. Fenner
Thank You so much for such a prompt response.
Mg is 1200. Looking at my log HPO4 has always been low, too low (0
<Ahh! Needs to be addressed. The chemoautotrophic algae in the
Clam require this absolutely>
calcium always too high (450 - 500) only recently (1 month) I was
able to get it lower and stable at 450.
<Again... this must be balanced/ratio with Magnesium
concentration, and alkalinity:
scroll down to the pH, Alk... tray and read>
The clam still looks the same and not moving, it's been three
days like that. I tried feeding it last night with no response .
What should I look for as signs of death?
<...? Please read: http://wetwebmedia.com/TridacDisF6.htm
and the linked FAQs files in the series above>
Thank You So much for Your help.
Derasa Clam gaping? 3/22/10
To Bob and all who have helped me so much before,
First things first:
<Magnesium concentration? Needs to be proportional...>
So, after researching (on WWM, of course), and reading "Got
Tridacna", I learned that I could house a Derasa Clam under
my 260 watts of CF lighting in my 55 gal reef tank. My local LFS
had two of them for $89 each (if you
were to be a member of their "fish club") and I
purchased one. I drip acclimated him for about an hour and a
half, my LFS's pH and salinity were very close to mine. After
I had placed him about halfway up in the tank, 12" from the
light, I was observing him and noticed he was "gaping"
a little bit and I'm not sure if he was doing this at the LFS
or not. I went straight back to WWM and found that his mantle
shouldn't appear this way either. I trusted my LFS with the
thought in mind that I could return him within 48 hours.
<I would return this specimen>
So, what I'm asking is based on the attached pictures, is
this guy gonna make it? Or, should I return him and make a
<I would, yes>
Thank you so much for all that you do for not the hobbyists, but
the animals we are trying to keep as pets!
Paul in snowy Chicago
<BobF in sunny S. Cal.>
Re: Derasa Clam gaping? --
Thanks for the timely response!
Since the first day that I got the clam, he's stopped the
"gaping" and actually seems pretty healthy. He opens
for the daytime and closes up at night, and when my fish cast a
shadow over him, he responds. Was there anything in the photos
that may have led you to believe that he might not be
Or was it just the issue of gaping?
Please Help/Tridacna Clam
You could not get rid of me for long,,, maybe a new thread.
<Hello Craig, and yes this will be a new thread.>
This morning I noticed two pyramid snails on my squamosa. I have a sad
face right now. After removing the clam I found about 10 more
underneath. Now I have a really sad face. Scrubbed all of them off and
returned. After inspection of the disgaured <discarded> water I
could also see three of what I could only describe as a really small
round flat clear worm, about the size of a pencil lead?????
<No idea here without a pic. Bob and/or crew may input here.>
Any way back to the devil snails, I am in trouble aren't I?
I also have a big derasa about 5" or so and could not find any on
him, he is attached to a old clam shell so I dont know if this helps
these snails from getting underneath. Both clams are on substrate.
<Are you sure these are Pyramid Snails? Pyramid Snails are generally
white in color, have a slender shell that tapers to a point, and do not
grow larger than a few millimeters. The Pyramid Snails use their long
proboscis, which is a tube-like mouth, to puncture the mantle of a
Tridacna Clam in order to feed upon the fluids and zooxanthellae cells.
A few of these snails will typically not pose a threat to a healthy
Tridacna Clam. If not controlled/eliminated, the snails can reproduce
every 90-120 days, and if left to multiply, can cause serious harm or
even death to the clam in a very short period of time.
If the infected clam has poor expansion and loss of color within the
mantle, it may be too late to help it. Pyramid Snails feed mostly
during the nighttime hours, and during the daytime, they will remain
either at the base of the clam, or on the folds of the shell where they
are difficult to spot. It is best to inspect with a flashlight a few
hours after the lights have turned off on your aquarium. The snails
will line up at the top of the shell just below the clam's
As you mentioned, it is best to remove the clam to a separate container
of aquarium water where you can physically remove the adult snails, and
brush the entire shell with a new toothbrush in order to remove any
I would do this weekly until no sign of the snails exist.
I will add that natural predators of Pyramid snails include several
species of wrasse within the genus of Halichoeres and Pseudocheilinus.
A few of the more popular species that are reportedly very efficient at
controlling these snails are the Six and Eight Lined Wrasse (P.
hexataenia and P. octotaenia), and the Green Wrasse (H. chloropterus).
Hoping this helps remove your sad face. James (Salty
Re Please Help/Tridacna Clam
Thanks again, after getting home about 7 est the Squamosa, believe it
or not is the fullest and most beautiful I think I have ever seen. I do
not know if this is because he may had been bothered for some time by
these pests? and now there gone he is happy again? I do believe they
are pyramid snails by pics and also where I first spotted the 2-3 up by
I forgot to tell you that I lost a maxima 2-3" about a week ago,
but for some reason he never really seemed happy in my tank, so I did
not check to see if it was a snail problem, and forgot to mention it.
Have these guys always been in my tank?
<Likely came in with one of the clams.>
I have had the maxima, now dead about 3-4 months, the derasa about the
same and squamosa around 2.Also when I cleaned squamy I notice a slimy
layer of ??? which after doing some research sounded like what their
egg masses are like. Do they only lay eggs on host?
I have never seen them on the clam after 1-2 hours of lights being off
only this morning about 3 hours before lights are to come on, and two
days ago my led moon light went out so now tank is in complete
darkness, could this excel the problem? Meaning they did not come out
of hiding because of the moon lights being on at night.
<Unlikely, there are full moons over the reefs.>
As far as the six line, I have a mc coskers <McCosker's> now
are they compatible?
<Compatible with whom, or do you mean will the McCosker's Wrasse
eat the snails? If so, I haven't heard any reports of this wrasse
eating pyramid snails.>
and I read they may not get rid of them because of their sleeping
habits at night time when the snails attack.
<The snails can/will also burrow into the sand bed near the clam and
is where the wrasses will find them.>
Are clams their only food source?
<Likely so, but not 100% positive. Bob or another crew member may
Meaning in worst case if all clams die, I would just have to wait out
their reproduction cycle to introduce clams again?
<If your clams are healthy now, there is no reason they should die
from pyramid snails as long as you remove the snails and scrub off egg
sacs as you have been doing. Eventually, you
should eradicate them completely and I would suggest getting a Six Line
Wrasse to help you out.>
As far as the worms, To <too> small to take a pic, after a close
look, looked like a round clear stingray no tail, instead of two eyes
looked like a brown dot. One more why don't they go after my nice
juicy derasa? Is the shell he is attached to help in any way?
<Possibly, depending on the clams location. Most folks that have
Pyramid Snail outbreaks will temporarily place their clams on live rock
once they are cleaned of the snails and eggs to prevent re-infection.
Pyramid Snails do not generally leave the sand bed for higher ground
other than feeding on a Tridacna.>
thank you, I will talk to you soon, have a great eveing
<evening>. I am off to kill these little ba%%((e((reds.
<That's the spirit, and can I please ask you to run future
queries through a spell checker? Will save me much time if I do not
have to edit/correct before posting on the dailies.
Thank you. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Please Help/Tridacna Clam
I am sorry, since my accident, I need help with a lot of things.
<Sorry to hear this, Craig. James (Salty Dog)>
Derasa clam, hlth., paucity of facts
Hello WWM, love the site. I can spend hours reading all the
replies. One question I am concerned about my clam, it has some
curled in mantel, I ordered him from a wholesale supplier and it
looks to be wild caught.
Anyways to the point is this a sign of pinched clam?
<Is it this way all the time?>
Here is a attached picture. He/She looks like it has been nipped
by a few fish.
<Yes... what else is present here livestock wise?>
I have had him in for a week
<Oh, may be "just new" to your conditions,
seems to open fine every mourning and close at night. I suppose
the all important tank stats are as follows nitrate=<10
nitrite and ammonia=0 ph=8.4 calcium is 460.
<A bit high... how do you adjust this? And very importantly,
what is your Magnesium concentration and Alkalinity? Please see
WWM re these important measures, co-factors>
This is an a 30 tall
<Not very large... inherent issues, instability...>
with 4 t5 ho and 175 MH I change 3 gallons of water every Sunday
with Seachem reefsalt. the only thing I supplement is marine snow
twice a week.
<Mmm, almost worthless. I would not use this product.
Non-nutritive. But... what else do you feed the clam/system? Has
this system been set-up long, have an established good-sized
Thanks for the help
<Need much more useful information to aid your efforts. Do
read through the articles, FAQs files archived on Tridacnids on
Crocea Suicide Attempt... Tridacnid placement f'
I just awoke this morning and checked my 30g/150w MH/54w T-5 that
is in my bedroom. To my dismay, my Crocea had hurled itself off
the rockwork and smack on top of some pesky Actinodiscus.
I am not so much worried about the sting as I am about the
strange bundle still attached to his rock.
<<Mmm, yes'¦damage to the byssus gland can prove
At first I thought it was the byssus gland, but as I read, it
seems more likely the byssus fibers.
She seems alright...the foot looks unscathed and the mantle is
expanding. I have included a pic of the bundle - my apologies for
the amateur photography. Am I correct in my assumption that is it
merely the fibers and not something worse?
<<From the pic it appears to be more than just
'threads''¦but if the 'clam initiated the
move,' as opposed to being 'knocked off' the rock,
then it is likely fine'¦though only time will tell.
And as it should be obvious, the clam was not happy in its
previous location. I think it unlikely this species was receiving
too much light here, so do look for other reasons for its wanting
to move (encroachment from corals/other stinging organism, too
much/too heavy water flow, etc.)>>
Thanks for the help and all your great resources.
<<A collective effort'¦you're quite
Re: Crocea Suicide Attempt... --
Thanks for the quick response.
The clam is in fact looking great today. The mantle is fully
extended, and the portion that was touching the Discosomas looks
The clam was contacting a Montipora capricornis in its original
spot, but they had grown into one another maybe three months ago.
Could that be the irritant?
The mantle would rest on the Monti when it was extended. I have
never had trouble with Acroporids irritating my clams in the past
so I thought nothing of it. This clam actually used to reside
nestled into an Acropora colony with no evident nettling.
<<Though some have stated that these clams (Tridacnids) are
very 'tolerant' of contact with other cnidarians, I have
to think there is a 'limitation' to that
contact'¦perhaps variable among the differing species
and even among different specimens>>
I also wanted to inquire if the scutes that were broken in the
fall have the potential to harm the mantle.
<<Sure'¦if jagged/sharp enough>>
They are sort of jagged. I hate to sound like a mother with a
newborn, but I worry about all my critters.
<<There's likely little reason to worry, but if these
breaks are overly sharp/pointy, you could remove the clam from
the water (make sure it hasn't reattached to the substrate
first) and try to file them down a bit with a 'fine cut'
metal file'¦or better yet, one of those small fine
'diamond-grit' files used to sharpen carbide router bits
and the like>>
I see too much slaughter working in the aquarium industry here in
So Cal. Last week I saw a 6' black-tipped reef shark crammed
into a tank at All Seas and it cut deep.
Thanks again for the help.
<<Is my pleasure'¦ Eric Russell>>
R2: Crocea Suicide Attempt... --
Just thought I would give you the update on the Crocea.
It has been about a week now, and my clam is doing great.
After the jump, I placed the damaged clam on a piece of Montipora
skeleton (another falling incident...Monti cap onto
Fungia.--Monti lost...bad) and put it on the sand, front and
center. I could actually see clear through from the incurring
siphon through the foot and out the other side, and I was a bit
worried. The mantle never stopped extending fully, and it even
has repaired some nicks in the scutes.
<<A good sign>>
While shifting things around to accommodate a couple new frags, I
gingerly moved the Crocea to find that it had already repaired
itself enough to attach to the base!
<<Very encouraging indeed!>>
Thanks again for the help.
<<I'm pleased to hear the clam is doing so well my
friend'¦ Cheers, EricR>>
05/02/10 Clam and Hammer Coral comp.
I introduced a hammer coral into my reef tank last week. Coral doing
great, but my maxima seems bothered now.
He has gone from upright on his perch to leaning sideways as of this
AM...the side closest to hammer coral is what he is trying to move
It's not as if he is right next to coral...hammer is at bottom, he
is at top on rocks...at least 8-10 inches of space between them....but
he definitely seems irritated...could the hammer's chemicals
flowing thru the water be upsetting him?
<Yes, and this coral has been reported to have very long sweeper
Can I wait until tomorrow to take the coral back to LFS?
<Probably yes, but is the Clam 'downstream' of the
Euphyllia? If so, then switching these so that the sweepers are pushed
in the other direction might do the trick>
If I have to choose, I choose the clam!!
<Move one of these and observe>
Finally, what corals will not bother my clam? I have Zoanthid,
Mushroom, Star Polyps, etc. but wanted something a little more
<Mmm, try something like a Montipora, an excellent, non-aggressive
intermediate coral, that is usually ok with what you have
I did read up on this stuff, I do ask lots of questions...but these
spur of the moment situations sometimes throw me for a loop...thanks
for your time!!
<No problem Megan>
Amphipods Irritating Maxima clam? 12/7/09
I am having some concerns over one of my maxima clams not opening
completely. At first I thought it could be pinched mantle. I have
researched this and don't find a whole lot out there on the
<Oh! Barry Neigut just had our online 'zine run his
definitive piece on this ailment:
I am also hesitant to do the prescribed freshwater dip which
could possibly kill an already stressed clam. Especially since I
am uncertain this is what it could be. When the lights are out in
my tank I searched with a flashlight and noticed amphipods all
over the outside of its shell. Attached is a picture pointing a
Placement is in the base rocks in sand. I believe they are
amphipods after searching this site and many other
<Do appear to me as thus>
I am wondering if they are irritating the clam causing it not to
extend its mantle fully.
<Could well be>
I also notice a few crawling about during the day which leads me
to believe this could possibly be the case. I have
another maxima which looked very good for a while now showing the
same signs. Amphipods are all over this shell as well. I have a
crocea clam the amphipods don't seem to bother which looks
great. Maybe moving the maximas
higher up away from the sand would solve the problem?
<Mmm, doubtful... I would...>
Also nothing else in the tank seems to bother the clams (2 true
percula clowns, hippo tang, kole
tang, Banggai cardinal, 2 cleaner shrimp)
My calcium is 380 (working to get this to at least 400).
Alkalinity is 11dKh. Magnesium is 1200 ppm. pH is 8.2. Any
insight would be great.
Thanks in advance.
<I would seek either to bait/trap them out (meaty food wrapped
in some filter media, stuffed in a plastic pipe... at night)
removed after an hour or two), or look to "renting" a
relatively, most likely non-Tridacnid-predator that will hunt
down, eat these. The list is long here; I would sort through a
search on the Net in general. Bob Fenner>
Re: Amphipods Irritating Maxima clam?
Dear Mr. Fenner,
Wanted to thank you for your help with my Maxima. I removed the
clam from the sand to move higher in the rock work. I decided,
while it was detached, to give a freshwater dip knowing after I
placed it in the rocks it could be challenging to remove if
necessary. As soon as the clam was placed in the dip water the
amphipods on the clam fell off.
There were quite a few more than I had actually thought. After 20
minutes I returned it to the top 1/3 of the tank and am happy to
report the clam looks 100% better. It has attached, has been wide
open and has been for about a week. Thanks again for your
<Ahh! Congratulations on your success, and thank you for your
Compatibility... Bivalves and Crabs... feast
I had a weird issue, I had a maxima clam some smaller green clams a
flame scallop and they all got eaten after in introduced some blue and
red dwarf and zebra crabs, along with some Nassarius and margarita
snails . could
any of these have eaten all my clams. who and why? and does this mean I
cant ever add clams because I wont be able to find the culprits and
round them all up?
<Very little info for me to base an informative reply on. I would
like to know your tank size, water parameters, lighting make-up, and
what types of fish and other invertebrates, if any, are in the
James (Salty Dog)>
Sony M. Onatte
Re Compatibility, Take 2, now reef... env. issues
I have a 30 gal long with roughly 45 - 50 lbs of live rock. water
levels all normal.. 0 nitrate nitrite and ammonia. salinity 19-22.
<1.019-1.022? This should be much closer to 1.026...>
If everything is 0 do I still have to do water changes cuz I'm
topping off water 3x a week cuz it evaporates so fast.
<Short answer: yes. Long answer -- the fresh water you are adding
back 3x a week is not equivalent to a water change -- this is only
replacing the evaporated system water. No export of nutrients has
occurred. Water changes achieve 2 goals: nutrient export from the tank,
and replenishment of ionic balance within the water. These two things
are indispensable, and cannot be substituted by any filter, additive,
My lighting system is a Current USA power compact with Dual Daylight
Lamp (6700K & 10,000K), 1 Dual Actinic Lamp (420nm/460nm) and 3
<Not nearly enough intensity for clams -- Power Compacts simply
don't have the depth of punch that T5 or Metal Halide
<I> have an <A>qua <C> <R>emora
skimmer<,> <I> have a black clown<,> a
reg<ular> clown<,> a domino, 1 chromis, 2 Fiji blue and
yellow devil. 3 camel shrimp, 2 skunk shrimp, assorted margarita,
turbo, and Nassarius snails. 3 emerald crabs, 25 assorted blue and red
dwarf crabs. 5 diff types of Zoa's.
<Sounds nice -- a bit overstocked... but please, in the future do
run your email through a spell check, practice proper punctuation and
capitalize proper nouns... All is posted for posterity here, and these
take time out of our day.>
2 bleached trumpet corals from 3 months ago because one of my pumps
died while I wasn't home for a month. ( will their color ever come
back or is there anything <I> can do about it)
<If they have not died yet, there is hope.>
an recently eaten maxima<,> assorted green clams<,> 2 flame
scallops. <Flame scallops do not fare well in home aquaria -- and
'assorted green clams' gives us nothing to go on here..>
and PS: my Zoa's aren't growing as fast as they once were
almost to a stop.
<Your salinity is far too low, your ionic balance is off -- fix
this, your growth will increase.>
any magic food? I rarely target feed. hopefully this is good enough
<Should not need much/any direct feeding in an adequately equipped
configuration, but would certainly benefit from a feeding of
Cyclop-Eeze or other similar small foods.>
Sony M. Onatte
Re: Compatibility... Now ScottV rallies!
I just feel like the problem hasn't been addressed.
<It has by Justin below, water quality, stability and lighting are
the culprits here, not the crabs.>
My maxima clam has been in my tank for over a year, the green
iridescent small clams were newer but they were fine too until I added
a clean up crew.
All the dwarf crabs I was talking about. Then the clams just started to
clear out. No flesh left in the shell. I wanted to know if you have
heard of this before?
<Yes, the crabs are scavengers, they will feed on dead or dying
And will I ever be able to have clams because of this?
<Sure, by addressing the issues listed below! <<Above now!
RMF>> Scott V.>
Unhappy Clam?/Tridacna Health 9/9/09
Quick question, my t. crocea clam just detached itself from the rock
it's been happily (or so it seemed) anchored to for over two years
now. I had noticed the clam "rocking" itself on occasion,
usually when stressed such as when the lights first come on in the
afternoon (I'm on a reverse light cycle to help control temp.
swings- the tank gets no natural light).
Otherwise seemed ok, good mantle extension, etc. Obviously it's
unhappy about something though, or wouldn't have jumped ship like
that! Didn't notice any byssal threads in the tank, attached to the
clam, or the rock. I moved the clam back up to his perch on the
rockwork, and redirected the powerhead that had been blowing behind
that rockwork in case that was irritating him- his spot is also below
the intake of the skimmer, but there are no discernable strong currents
that I noticed when my hand was in the tank. Any other tips? Just keep
an eye on 'em? It is just beginning to extend its mantle a bit-
obviously clamped shut for a few minutes after moving it. I wonder if
it is outgrowing the shelf/nook in the rockwork and was trying to find
more room to grow? I have read that it's a good idea to leave the
clam on the sand if they detach with a piece of rock below them in the
sandbed to attach to, but this is a 29 gal. tank with PC lighting (60
watt 50/50, 60 watt 10000k?) so it needs a high placement in the
The bulbs are in need of replacement (a little over a year old, I
could the wavelength shift with aging bulbs be part of the problem?
<Possibly, as your lighting is close to borderline to start with.
Anyway, wondering if you had
any feedback and I'll keep you posted on any new developments!
<I would replace the lamps and further observe. A link to a very
informative clam article by James Fatheree, a regarded clam expert,
will be good reading/learning for you.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Unhappy Clam?/Tridacna Health
James and Crew,
Thanks for your advice!
I moved the clam back to his original position in the rockwork, only to
have him "jump ship" again by the next morning, so I perched
him in a smaller piece of live rock that is a thickly encrusted shell
of some kind, and has a nice hollow cup for him to sit in, where he
seems quite happy and has attached, and is now at least 2" closer
to the lights.
<Good, now leave it alone.>
When I turned this rock over to repurpose it for a clam perch, I
discovered a tiny light-starved mushroom polyp growing on the underside
(now the top)- this is growing next to the clam- will it irritate or
injure the clam? If so, suggestions to relocate the polyp? Careful
razor blade surgery? It's a quite smooth surface, so might work,
and I'd obviously rather sacrifice the polyp than risk damage to
the clam... but thought I'd leave the two for a bit to see if they
can work things out, unless anyone has advice to the contrary...
<Leave alone, not to worry until you need to.>
Several people have commented- "A piece of your clam fell
off!", which of course led to minor panic on my part until I
realized the were talking about the mushroom anemone, which has similar
coloration to the clam, and is attached to the rock near the base of
the clam. Funny...
I also discovered the root cause of clam distress- stupid stupid stupid
me neglected to plug in the canister filter after cleaning it
(don't do vital maintenance tasks when distracted by company next
time, I suppose). Ack!
Opened it up, and man was that stinky- sent my fiancÃ© and
his friend practically running out of the room. Discarded the media
(except for the Chemi-pure, which I rinsed/soaked very very well-
should this be discarded as well?
<Not if it is still functional. Water clarity will determine that. A
good test to determine this is to put several stripes on a white paper
with a yellow highlighter, then tape the paper on the side glass.
While looking at it from the opposite side glass, you should be able to
see the yellow highlighting. If not, time to change the Chemi-Pure. I
prefer to change the Chemi-Pure before this stage, say every three
an average stocked tank.>
Obviously has lost a lot of effectiveness, but it won't leach
contaminants back into the water, correct?),
added carbon and floss to temporarily polish the tank (usually I just
run Chemipure or sometimes Polyfilters as well, and mainly use the
canister for increased water volume and circulation), and filled with
new salt water, and within 24 hours everybody in the tank looked much
happier- I'd wondered why the skimmer was suddenly producing double
the usual amount of goop. Sigh... live and learn, I suppose... bad tank
<No, just the learning curve being experienced.>
Question about a new addition- bought a serpent star on Tuesday (and a
4 # hunk of gorgeous cured live rock with a pretty polyp on it... no
one believes me when I tell them the rock was more expensive by several
times than the starfish.. heh), and he's still hiding out in the
live rock cave he retreated into when I released him.
<Far more active at night.>
There was quite a difference in salinity from the store tanks (1.028 in
the bag) and mine, which is around 1.023... working to bring that up
slowly with water changes and topping up with light salt mix instead of
fresh water. I drip-acclimated him for just over 6 hours (even though
the LFS guy said that I didn't need to drip-acclimate- sounded
crazy to me and contrary to everything I'd read... did it
<LFS is wrong here.>
to help even out the dramatic shift in salinity etc, but know that
these animals are quite sensitive.
<Sensitive to sudden pH/salinity changes, correct.>
It's definitely alive, and looks healthy, but sluggish.
He was the most active guy in the store tank, climbing the walls with
the lights on. I have my tank on a reverse-light cycle, and was hoping
to watch his "nocturnal" scavenging activities... hopefully
he just needs time to settle in and recover from the stress of
acclimating to new tank conditions? Anything I can do to help him
<You are doing fine.>
Thanks for all the reassurance and advice that I've gotten from you
guys over the years- what a great resource!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Clam with hitchhikers -- 09/08/09
I hope everyone is well at the WetWeb!
<I am for sure!>
I recently purchased a 2.5 inch Maxima clam, with 2 large, and 3
smaller clove polyps on its shell. One of the large ones is at the very
top, and the mantle of the clam expands around it to open, the others
down the shell, (and obviously reproducing).
The Clam seems ok - it opens fully, but I don't know if I should be
removing these polyps or if that would be a worse stress on the clam
than leaving it alone. If so, how would you recommend (Exacto-knife was
my best guess...)
Thanks as always,
<A sharp blade, yes... not likely chemically toxic or physically
harmful however. Bob Fenner>