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Aiptasia on Derasa Clam 9/6/07 Hello, <Hi Chad, Mich here.> I have recently acquired a Derasa Clam (2-3 in). <Little.><<A bad, too-small starting size... RMF>> It has not been fully extending its mantle for about 2 days. <Not good.> I checked with a flashlight for Pyramidellid but couldn't see any. Instead I found an small Aiptasia anemone on his shell. <This may explain.> Do you suggest lemon juice or something different? <I think I would try to manually remove, you may just be able to scrape it off the clams' shell. I would be hesitant to use any acids or bases here.> It is a 30 gallon tank so no Butterflies! <No.> Thanks Chad <Welcome, Mich>
Clam and Bristleworm,
comp. 7/13/07 Hello WetWeb, I noticed that my
clam was not opening up like it usually does so I checked it out and
saw a Bristleworm inside of the clam next to the byssal opening.
However, it is in a very tight spot and don't have anything small
enough to grab it. What can I do about this? Will my clam survive?
<Oh dear, it sounds like your clam might be dead. How long has it
been since it opened up? The vast majority of bristle worms are
scavengers. They show up when something dies or is dying. Chances are
that the bristle worm is not there to kill the clam, but is there
because the clam is already dead or dying. Sorry :( Sara M.>
Mike Gigas clam health failing!!!!!!!!!!!! 5/12/07 Hello Bob & WWM crew, <Antonio> I have an 18in. Gigas clam that I bought 5 days ago. <Wowzah! I guess/hope you have/had a strong back!> I acclimated the clam well & placed him in my 150 gallon reef, (48x24x30)! Water parameters are fine, PH 7.8(Which I wondered if it was too low), <Yes> and no other traceable problems in water quality. <Actually... whatever would occasion/cause the pH of this system to be this low is VERY big trouble> This tank also houses 9 other Tridacna clams, 13in. derasa, 10in. derasa, 8in. derasa, & a few others, squamosa(2), blue maxima, and one crocea. <... I would NOT mix all these species together...> The lights are 2 250W 6500K Iwasaki's, 1 175W 10,000K Red Sea bulbs! The new gigas clams mantle is starting to recede which I know from experience is a sign of impending death. His reflexes are still very good but I can see clearly that he's on his way out! <Mmm, not necessarily... Is very likely still adjusting from the move...> Do you all have any clue as to what the problem may be? Antonio <Is/was this animal wild-collected at this size? I do hope not... If it was moved from someone else's system you need to talk with them, compare notes re feeding, water quality, light quality/intensity... For review, please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BookMatters/WWM/NMA-RI/NMA-RI_Tridacnids-demo.pdf and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tridacnidart.htm for the links to the files above on Systems, Diseases of Tridacnids. Bob Fenner> Unhappy Tridacna squamosa...Too Much Light Too Fast? -- 05/09/07 Hello, <<Howdy>> I purchased a 5 year old Squamosa (about 6-inches) approx 7 days ago. I did a two-hour drip and it acclimated very well for the first day. The second & third day it didn't want to open much, so on the fourth day I gently nestled a rock under it so it could foot hold. Almost immediately it opened up beautifully for about two days. Now yesterday and today it is gaping on and off and the interior of the clam seems sunken in. <<Mmm...>> It is open and the mantel is out and the clam is very responsive. <<A good sign>> Also the color looks good. Is it doomed or can I do anything? <<Theirs is usually little we as hobbyists can do for these creatures once they show signs of decline, but if the decline is attributable to an environmental situation that can be identified and corrected the clam may pull through if not too damaged/too far gone>> It was raised under VHO lights and is now is in a 75 gallon with 2 250-watt metal halides. <Ah! A definite clue... If the clam was not acclimated to the more intense lighting it is likely suffering from photo-shock. You can try shading the clam a bit with layers of fiberglass window screen or the like (have a read here and beyond for more info: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm), removing a layer every couple days to allow the clam to become accustomed to the new lighting...though since it has been more than a week since the clam was placed under the halides, this strategy may now be a moot point>> Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate <5 Phosphates 0 PH 8.4 SG 1.024. I have a lot of sensitive corals like Alveopora and a Crocea and Maxima and they are well so I don't believe it is the water. <<Then is likely the lighting>> Its bottom dwelling neighbors are a 3 plate Fungia about 3-5 inches away and the other side a Lobo about 4 inches away. Any help would be great. <<Do also have a read of this article by Barry Neigut of Clams Direct on selection and placement of Tridacnid clams (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i3/Clam_care/Clam_care.htm ). Regards, EricR>> Maxima Clam and Shrimp - 4/29/07 Hello Crew! <Hi Brandon!> I work at a small LFS and we just got a few clams in. One of them (a gold teardrop maxima) is about three inches long and has a shrimp living inside of it. The shrimp is a white-gray color with small black polka dots all over it. It's about 1/2" long and it's pinchers seem to be large in proportion to its body. Not large like a coral banded shrimp but long and skinny and are held out straight in front of the head. The shrimp is hanging out inside the clam around the gills. I wouldn't be too concerned about it except for the fact that the clam is gaping a bit and seems uncomfortable with the situation. Any ideas what kind of shrimp it may be (I can try to get a picture of it but it should be difficult), and how in the world could I get it out if it is possible to? <Hmmm, I've heard of these shrimp, but unfortunately, I'm not sure which species it is. It also seems unsure whether these are parasitic or actually commensal. Please see this link for more information: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tridacnidfaq3.htm . Also, I know it would be a challenge to photograph, but if you're able to get a good shot of this little guy, please let us know!> Thank you for your help, Brandon <You're very welcome! --Lynn> <<Is a commensal... no worries. RMF>> Clam pinched
2/22/07 Ok, this is going to sound really odd but I was moving a
rock and an Asterina starfish fell. It fell onto my T. Crocea clam. The
problem is the clam is pinched and closed up in the area where it is.
The rest of the clams mantle is out but its closed where the starfish
is. What should I do? I cant get the starfish out now because I cant
see it. Thanks Kevin
<Mmm... am torn between suggesting leaving the two alone, and
possibly moving/placing the Clam on its edge so the star is likely to
fall out... I would do this latter if the clam does not re-open
completely in a few days. Bob Fenner>
Tridacnid, Squamosa...Sorry
We're Closed 2/1/07 Hi Guys - <Hi Jim, Mich with you
today.> I am a new hobbyist that inherited a 50 gal tank.
<Welcome to our salty world.> After eight months with no losses,
last month I lost a small green clam (3 inches). I started noticing it
with the Tang nipping at the mantle. After a few more days the clam was
sick and it died a few more days later. <Sorry for your
loss. Is this tang still in you system?> A
week ago, a larger clam (5 inches) with a brown mantle took to not
opening for most of the day (not gaping). I inspected for Priams. None.
I did find a couple of small starfish outside, which I
removed. <Probably not the problem.> For the last two
days, the clam has opened wide in the morning, but when something
closes it (today it was an urchin crawling up onto it). It doesn't
reopen for most of the rest of the day. For the last few days, I have
moved it to inspect it. Afterward it will open and close hard a few
times, like it's trying to expel something. Then it stays hard
shut. I sure hope its not dying. When its open, it looks normal.
<Gaping would be a bigger concern, though it doesn't sound
happy. Sounds like something is irritating
it. Clams will close when something bothers
them. Perhaps the tang is nipping at it? How is
your water temp. Sometimes clams will close if the temp is
out of sorts.> I ran tests on the water. All seems ok.
Water changes are small (5%) and frequent (weekly). I did notice that
this all started after I started using Joe's Juice to fight an
Aiptasia infestation. I don't use much, but it does burn the
coralline. <This could be the source of irritation. Are
you still using it?> Any suggestions? <Mmm, stop using the
Joe's Juice and perhaps leave the clam be for a
while. You may want to do a larger water change maybe 10-20%
and see if you get any improvement. Keep an eye on that
tang. It does sound like something is irritating this
clam.> Thanks, Jim <You're
welcome, -Mich>
Dead fish, toxic tank, moving
livestock (Tridacna) ASAP 1/5/07 Dearest crew,
<Hi Carla, Mich here.> Tragedy has struck, and this reader is
frantic. My initial hypothesis is that a powerhead in my
tank jammed/overheated/otherwise malfunctioned, and my roommate called
me at work saying there was an electrical burny smell in my bedroom,
and she was afraid our apt. was burning down. I instructed
her to unplug the tank, and I'd be home in an hour... <Wise.>
I returned to find two dead fish (and now one very dejected girl-
I've had them for over a year). <So sorry.> However, as soon
as my friend gets here to help me deal with the bodies (I'm
squeamish... how is it that I can butcher a flounder without a second
thought in the kitchen, but not scoop my little friends into a net?
<Better to get them out ASAP as the bodies are just further
polluting the system.> Because they were my little friends, I
suppose. ANYWAY...) <Understandable, but not helping the remaining
animals in your care.> My thoughts are now on the remaining Tridacna
clam, mushroom polyps, hermit crabs, etc. still in the toxic water that
killed my fish. <Good thinking.> Luckily, I have
another tank set up in my living room (was going to move them all to
larger quarters...) which has been aging for a long while (several
months... I'm a procrastinator... and the move task was daunting
and now urgent). <Yep!> My main concern is this- the
clam. How can I move it, and the largish chunk of rock
it's anchored itself to, into the new tank without either exposing
it to air or introducing the deadly water from the old
tank? <Exposure to air will not kill your clam, though I
would try to keep it to a minimum. I would move the entire
rock. Do not remove the clam from the rock. I repeat, do not remove the
clam from the rock. Place the rock and clam in a container
with water from the contaminated tank and then add water from your new
system. Then dump some of the water and add more from the
new system. I would do this process relatively quickly, say
within 30 minutes or so. It's ok if a minimum amount of
water from your old system is introduced; just try to minimize the
volume.> A response ASAP would be wonderful, as you can
imagine I'm sweating over the fate of my remaining wet pets.
*sniff* <Sorry for your loss. It always hurts to lose a
friend, in this case more than one.> Thanks ever so much
again, <Good luck and my condolences. -Mich> Carla
Derasa Clam Doing Poorly - 11/07/06 Dear Bob,
<<Eric here...Bob is out washing the gecko poop off the
deck 'honest <grin>. (I'm visiting at his place in
HI at the moment)>> I purchased a Derasa Clam back in mid
September. I placed it in my sand bed in my 240-gallon
tank. The tank is well established, it has been set up for
over a year. <<Still "young" mate>> The tank
filtration system consists of an EV-240 protein skimmer, wet/dry in a
50-gallon sump, a 50-gallon refugium, phosphate reactor, and 400 pounds
of live rock. I have the built in overflows that direct the
water down into my refugium, which is full of Caulerpa, and then my
refugium drains the water into my sump where it gets further processed.
My sump and my refugium are two separate tanks but they are connected
together. Also I have water being directed into my wet/dry
where it is processed prior to entering my skimmer. The
water is then picked up by my UV sterilizer in sump prior to being
returned to tank. <<Sounds like a nice setup...though I question
the use of the wet/dry and the UV "if" this is a reef
system>> Inside tank I have a SEIO 1100 on one side of the tank
and I have elbows on the returns that shoot the water into the
middle...The SEIO just shoots water straight across. I have
a bunch of coral too that seems to be doing fantastic. <<Ah...so
a reef tank it is...>> The fish that are in my tank are: Naso
Tang Desjardin Sailfin Tang Yellow Tang Scopus Tang 3 true Perculas 1
mandarin 1 cleaner shrimp 1 blood shrimp Also have 300 hermit crabs and
about 300 Nassarius vibrex snails.... My water quality is: pH 8.2
Ammonia - 0.0 Nitrite- 0.0 Nitrate 0-20 <<May not be a problem,
but in reef systems I prefer to keep nitrate below 5ppm>>
Magnesium- 1200ppm Alkalinity- 5.71 meq/l Calcium- 540ppm
<<Alkalinity and calcium values are dangerously high (if
accurate), you're flirting with a precipitous event>>
Strontium- 7 Iodine- Not really readable <<Often the
case...readily utilized/difficult to measure>> I use Salifert
test kits to perform all tests on tank <<Fine kits>> Water
quality was exactly the same when I introduced the clam back in
September. Lately I have noticed that the clam's mantle
is not fully extending almost as if he is suffering from gaping.
<<Mmm...>> I feed the clam once a week BioPlankton...(Tiny
Bottle that you keep frozen). Am I suppose to feed him more
than once a week? <<First, let me ask...are you sure the clam
actually "feeds" on this product?...I have my
doubts. It's likely the combination of lighting and your
refugium provide the clam the nutrition it needs>> I keep him
under a 175-watt halide, I have three on my tank.... <<Should be
fine>> The tank is 2 feet deep and the lights sit about 16 inches
above tank in a canopy. <<Hmm, awfully high...I would move these
to within 10" of the water's surface>> I also have moon
lights go on at night. I recently read an article on your
website about clams and it suggested to put a rock under the sand bed
for it to grab on and also to keep it by just moderate current.
<<Opinions vary...even here. The rock is fine (some
writers also believe this helps to keep predators away from the
delicate byssal opening), but unless you're blasting the clam
directly with a powerhead a heavy current won't mal-affect
it>> I did just that and placed him upright on top of my sand bed
with an oyster shell underneath the sand. I also moved him
to an area where he is protected from the current. <<Not
necessary...even undesirable...in my opinion>> I put a rock on
both sides so that he is well protected. <<This may be the
problem>> What am I doing wrong and how are we going to save
him? Am I suppose to turn off UV when I feed him
BioPlankton? <<I would turn off the UV
altogether. These units will destroy beneficial
plankton/epiphytic matter generated from your refugium...maybe the clam
is starving, BioPlankton or not>> When I feed him BioPlankton I
put a few drops of the highly concentrated stuff into my water and
unplug my skimmer for 8 hrs. <<Another unnecessary and
undesirable habit, in my opinion of course>> Please help
me..................... <<Were this me...I would remove the
wet/dry and UV filters, get nitrates below 5ppm, lower the halides to
within 10-12 inches of the water's surface, position the clam where
it receives good light and water flow...and start reading here and
among the associated links at the top of the page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tridacnidart.htm Sincerely,
Christopher Faiola <<Regards, Eric Russell>> He was doing
fantastic when I first put him in there . What am I doing
wrong and how do we save him? <<Consider my suggestions and read
where I have indicated for further
thoughts/ideas. EricR>> Crocea Clam...Shell Going Soft - 09/28/06 Dear WWM, <<Dustin>> I have a 240 gallon reef tank which is 31" deep. I have three 400 watt metal halides (2 at 15K and the middle bulb at 20K). I have a Crocea clam nestled in the sand bed at the bottom of the tank. <<Mmm, prefers a "rocky" perch. A common name for this species of Tridacna is the "rock boring clam." These clams exude a substance that softens carbonaceous material/rock, then by "squirming" about, they can actually bore in to the rock. Not only is this more natural for the clam, but this action serves to protect their vulnerable byssal opening from predators/pests>> The clam seems to be doing fine but I noticed that the shell of the clam looks as if it is eroding. <<...!>> It is like it is turning soft towards the upper edges near the mantle. <<Can't be good...>> If I touch the shell it is soft and it just brushes away. <<Yikes! Have never encountered this...pH/calcium/alkalinity are where they should be in this system?>> The clam still opens up but am not sure what could be wrong with its shell. <<Nor am I...>> My bulbs are only 3 months old and are still very bright. <<I don't think this is the problem>> Could it not be getting enough light? <<Something in the 10,000K range would be better in my opinion...but yes, it is likely getting enough light>> Or insufficient calcium. <<Mmm...just musing here, but I wonder if maybe something is keeping this clam from assimilating calcium from the water column?>> I have checked all my water parameters and they are all in sufficient range. Maybe a fungus of some sort? <<Another possibility I suppose. If so, I don't think there is much you can do as any treatment is likely to kill the clam>> Thanks so much, Dustin LeCave <<Wish I could be of more help...perhaps Bob/somebody else has seen this before. Eric Russell>> Crocea Death...Searching for
Clues - 08/08/06 Hi Crew, <<Hello Jason!>> I just lost
the first T. crocea clam I tried to keep in my system, and maybe you
can help me diagnose the cause. <<Mmm, unfortunate...let's
see if I can be of help...>> It had been in the display tank for
about a month and a half, and until Saturday it was looking good (as
in, I hadn't noticed any signs of trouble, though they may have
been there). <<Indeed, but often with these clams it is too late
by the time it is noticed that something is amiss. And once
they start to "go" they go quickly>> Saturday I noticed
the mantle was not extending, and worse, the clam was not closing when
my hogfish swam nearby, as it usually would. <<Mmm...a very bad
sign...generally signals the end is near>> In fact, the hogfish
poked its head into the clam! <<Yes...when opportunity
knocks...>> Saturday night I did a 5-gallon water change (~65 gal
tank including sump) and tested the water. Undetected
ammonia and nitrite, 10ppm nitrate, 0.03mg/L phosphate, 380 mg/L
calcium, 8.1 pH, 1.022 salinity, 5.8dKH Alk. Alk was clearly
low, so I raised it a bit with baking soda to 6.2 dKH. <<Still a
bit low, should be more than 7 dKH>> This morning, clam was
closed. I left for the day, came back around midnight, and the clam was
being eaten by a hermit crab. Most of its flesh was gone.
<<Doesn't take long when scavengers are present...the flesh
seems to be "relished" by all>> I inspected the shell
for parasites and found none. I also never saw worms
bothering the clam, nor any inside the shell after I removed it.
<<Their presence at this point would not have proven
anything>> So, whodunit? <<Hmmm...likely environmental
mate>> I am not inclined to believe it was lack of lighting,
though tell me if I'm wrong. I have 400W 20kK MH for my
58 gal display, and the clam was in direct light. <<As long as
the clam was acclimated to the lighting and was not stressed/weakened
by photo-shock then yes, probably not your lighting>> It did
often seem pestered by my hogfish, however, and would frequently close
up when the hogfish swam by. <<A stressor (the hogfish may even
have been nipping at the clam), and likely a piece to the
puzzle>> Thanks for any ideas and suggestions to avert future
clam deaths! Jason <<Well Jason, there's no way to say with
any certainty what caused the demise of your clam. As stated
previously, it was probably environmental...a combination of factors
that may include excessive nitrates (clams do appreciate some measure
of nitrate, but I would recommend this be kept below 5ppm),
collection/shipping stress compounded by the attentions/pestering from
the hogfish, out-of-balance earth elements (Alk), even a lower than NSW
salinity (should be 1.025/.026). Any of the
elements/conditions on their own may not have been a problem, but when
combined....... And something else to
consider. You don't mention other corals in the system,
but the presence of noxious organisms such as mushroom/soft/leather
corals (Corallimorphs, Alcyoniids) can make keeping clams very
difficult. Increased water changes and chemical filtration
(carbon/Poly-Filter) can help, but even then it sometimes is not
enough. Another consideration is that "dosing" in
the vicinity of the clam may have poisoned it (especially
iodine)...very efficient filter feeders. All speculation on
my part my friend...but some food for thought. Regards, Eric
Russell Clam dip? 7/7/06 No, I'm not asking for your favorite clam dip recipe. <Heeeee!> Is there a dip you can use for Tridacnid clams, similar to dips for fish and corals, before putting them in the tank? Thanks <Mmm, this could become quite a discussion... Some friends in the trade do have/practice rather elaborate acclimation processes for newly imported Tridacnids... But I would not do this as a hobbyist. I do encourage you to isolate/quarantine new purchases however, to investigate the presence of pests (esp. Pyramidellids) and assure health before placement in a main/display system. Bob Fenner> Unidentified Clam Assailant - 06/27/06 Hi there, <<Howdy>> You've helped me before in the past with a freshwater problem I had, and now I got a new random question for you in the realm of salt water. <<Alrighty>> Yesterday, I noticed my Crocea Clam looked like it got knocked over, so I went to move it back in place, and noticed 2 things: it's stringy filaments that hold it to the rock were destroyed, <<These are byssal filaments>> and a weird red growth retracted out of where the foot is! <<It had entered the byssal opening of the clam? Troubling indeed!>> I have no idea what it could be. I tried to flush it out of the rock, but to no avail. <<...?>> I was thinking maybe some kind of slug, flatworm, maybe even algae or blood, I've never seen anything like it, and can't find anything that resembles it on the internet. <<Hmm...>> The Clam seems fine right now, very responsive to light and stimuli, and I've had the clam for about 3 months with no problems. <<I hope you have repositioned it away from this critter>> No snails or anything on the shell. When I checked this morning to see if the red thing was back, it was, and retracted right back into the rock! <<curious...>> Any ideas?? <<Not without a picture...or at least a better description. But at any rate, this sounds like an organism you may want to remove from your system...for the clam's sake if nothing else. Can you remove the rock in which this thing is hiding?>> Attached is a pic of my clam...couldn't get one with the weird red thing though :( <<A nice looking clam>> Thanks, Steve <<Regards, EricR>> Crocea Clam Crisis? 6/20/06 Hello Sir/Ma'am, <Scott F. here today!> First of all let me say thank you for all the help that you have provided to me over the years in this hobby. <You're quite welcome! We're glad to be of service!> My tanks specifications are: Nitrate 2.5, Calcium 400-425, DKH 10.96, Specific Gravity 1.024, Temperature is kept constant at 77, no Ammonia or Nitrite. I have a 2 month old 200 gallon reef tank. My problem is that after carefully acclimating 2 Crocea clams I put them on the sand bed of my tank with two flat pieces of rock underneath them. These clams immediately opened up and have stayed that way for 1 week. Yesterday, I came to have a look at the tank and received a shock. The larger (approx 5 inches) was gaping, spewing white film (presumably from his footing). I turned him over and saw that the footing was stringy with a sort of blackish tint to it. I can only deduce (since the water quality is kept pristine) that is was some sort of internal parasite or possibly a bristle worm? <Gaping and discharge of material is almost always a sign of some sort of induced stress, most likely as a result of collection/shipping/acclimating trauma.> I immediately put a zip tie around his shell to relieve his main muscle from stressing and put him in my refugium. The clam did not survive and was pronounced dead shortly after. One bit of information is that I purchased this clam from the LFS the day that they received it. Could this be a matter of stress? I am at a loss, please provide any insight you can to my dilemma. Thanks so much, Matthew McGhee <Well Matthew, I'd attribute this to stress, in the absence of other obvious problems, such as a damaged byssal gland, etc. Your water parameters look pretty good. If you attempt clam keeping again, I would certainly pay very careful attention to selection, and acclimate them quite slowly. If you are serious about really good quality clams, so check out WWM friend Barry Neigut's ClamsDirect.com site. He has lots of great clams, and an amazing treasure trove of information on clam husbandry! Best of luck! Regards, Scott F.> - Crocea Clam
Lighting and Quarantine 6/16/06 - Hi Crew, I looked through the
FAQs on clams and lighting, but want to get a personalized opinion in
this case, as they seem to vary a bit. I have a 12 gal NanoCube DX for
my quarantine tank. It's got two 24W 50/50 PC lights, and I put in
a colonized sponge filter, carbon, and a poly-filter. I plan to add a
3-4in T. crocea clam as its first inhabitant, which will then be moved
to my display tank. I want to make sure the lighting and filtration in
the quarantine is sufficient for such a clam. <The lighting is
not... but if the clam is only passing through, then it really
won't matter so much.> My intent was to elevate it so to be
closer to the light, since they are not terribly bright. <Or
strong/intense.> My display tank is 58gal with a 400W 20k MH. Will I
have to photoacclimate the clam upon moving it to the display? <It
won't hurt, but clams, unlike corals can close almost completely to
get a break if they need it.> Thanks for any advice! Jason |
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