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FAQs about the Diseases of Clownfishes 18
Related FAQs: Clownfish Disease 1,
Diseases of Clownfishes 2, Diseases
of Clownfishes 3, Clownfish Disease
4, Clownfish Disease 5,
Clownfish Disease 6, Clownfish
Disease 7, Clownfish Disease 8,
Clownfish Disease 9, Clownfish
Disease 10, Clownfish Disease 11,
Clownfish Disease 12, Clownfish
Disease 13, Clownfish Disease 14,
Clownfish Disease 15, Clownfish
Disease 16, Clownfish Disease 17,
Clownfish Disease 19, Clownfish
Disease 20, & FAQs on Clownfish Disease By:
Environmental Stress, Nutrition,
Social/Behavioral/Territoriality,
Trauma/Mechanical Injury, & Pathogens:
Lymphocystis, Infectious Disease
(Bacteria, Fungi...), Protozoans:
Cryptocaryon/Ich, Amyloodinium/Velvet,
Brooklynella (see article below), &
Mysteries/Anomalous Losses, Cure,
Success Stories, & Clownfishes in General,
Clownfish Identification, Clownfish
Selection, Clownfish Compatibility,
Clownfish Behavior, Clownfish Systems,
Clownfish Feeding, Clownfishes and
Anemones, Breeding
Clowns, Related Articles:
Clownfish Disease, Clownfishes,
Maroon Clowns, Marine Disease, Brooklynellosis, | 
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Clownfish hlth., Actinarian involvement? 12/27/07
Hi guys, I've been a long time reader, but this is my first time
asking a question. You people are great and seem extremely
qualified at answering my question, so here it goes : I have
a 75 gallon reef tank, some anemones, <Yikes... what species?>
hermits, lots of live rock from Fiji etc. I have about 6
damsels, and 5 clowns in the tank. My water is excellent, and I am
currently raising my salinity very slowly to 1.025 as I read in one
of your posts. It is currently at 1.022. Anyways, here's my
problem, about 2 months ago, I notices something really odd on 4 out
of my 5 clowns. They are spots but aren't white. They look like they
are under the skin, almost shining through. Very hard to explain,
for instance, on the orange of the fish, the color of the
circles/blotches are lighter orange, on the black of the fish, the
blotches are a dark gray color, and so on. So, it seemed not to
really bother the fish so I left it all on. <Good. Is what I
would do as well> Now, about 3 days ago, I noticed one of my
clowns stopped eating and more on the spots are appearing, he is
staying in one area hovering just above the sand. I am extremely
worried the rest of my tank is going to have problems. I have looked
all over and I do not know what this could be. Thank you for your
time, Angel <Could be a protozoan of some sort... Sporidean
likely if so... No real "cure"... but may well subside in appearance
with the increased, better spg, good general care. Another
possibility is some sort of "dermal" reaction to the
anemone/interaction here... You'd do well to read on WWM re their
Compatibility. Bob Fenner>
Re: Clownfish hlth., Actinarian involvement? 12/27/07 Thanks
for your quick response. I tried taking a picture of the clown
fish, I'm attaching it to this email. It looks much worse in person
but am hoping you can see the spots in the picture. <Not
well> I am also attaching the picture of one of my anemones. One
thing, the only clown using my anemones are the Clarkii's which
oddly enough, are the only ones that do not have the spots.
<Could be... simple stress> Thank you for your time and I hope
you can see something in the pictures. Angel <Please read
here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/part2.htm the
Clownfish Disease sections, the bottom tray. BobF> |
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Help, my clown fish is vomiting? Data? Reading -12/22/2007 My
maroon clown is acting very hungry but whenever I try to feed her she
spits the food out! Also she comes to my fingers and pecks at my fingers
- usually much stronger, but these days the peck is very weak. After try
to swallow one pellet, she starts spitting out what looks like poop -
really stringy stuff. Then it keeps opening its mouth and spitting small
specks out. At this point I have no idea what to do. I have a 10
gallon saltwater with a refugium, and live rock and live sand. I have 2
snails, chocolate chip star, 2 serpent stars, and a couple of little
blue legged crabs that keep on eating my snails. My choc. chip lost it's
leg recently so I was wondering if maybe this is due to water
conditions? The clown has an anemone (bubble tip) and that also recently
gotten a little smaller in size. Please advice. Angel. <Mmm,
could be an internal blockage... from... a tumour, parasite of some
sort... infectious agent... No other fishes affected? No other symptoms?
I would try a one-shot treatment with Metronidazole/Flagyl or compound
containing... See WWM re.. The other organisms involvement points to
something possible amiss with your system, water quality... or their
causing such... Much for you to read, test for... I would read re
Systems, Disease of all... and related back to me/us the sorts of real
data (system, maint., foods/feeding, water testing...) that others have
provided. This is too much of a guessing game otherwise. Bob Fenner>
Sick clownfish? Info.? 12/21/07 Hi Crew, <Jason>
I am worried that one of my Ocellaris clownfish is sick. I've had a
black & white Ocellaris pair for a year and a half. They have both been
healthy and eating well throughout that time. Today, I noticed one of
them was moving its mouth a lot and pressing its head against the rocks.
Atypical behavior for this fish. They host in a Xenia colony, and the
fish was coming out less than usual, though when it did, I did not
notice any other symptoms of a disease (no spots, mucous, torn fins, or
discoloration). The fish also ate. Is this an early sign of illness,
or am I unnecessarily worried? What action should I take now, if any?
Thanks, Jason <Can't tell from here... What re the other
livestock? Water quality tests, foods/feeding? Could be the Pulsing
Coral toxifying the fish... I'd take a read through WWM's Clownfish
Health/Disease areas to give you an idea of what sorts of info. we
need... Bob Fenner>
Re: Sick clownfish?-12/22/2007 Hi
Bob, <Jason> Here's some more relevant info, I hope. First,
the only significant livestock change in the tank in the past few months
(since summer, I think) is the addition of a new coral, a purple
Montipora. If a disease came in, it probably would have been on this. I
bought it from my LFS after they had it for a few weeks, did an Iodine
dip, brief quarantine, then added it to my display. The store has a huge
system of connected tanks (20k gallons or so) and I've never seen a sick
fish there, but you never know. <Yes> Water: One change of late is
that I have been slowly raising the salinity over the course of the past
few days. It was down around 1.021 on 12/17, at 1.024 today (12/21). I
did this by topping off with new saltwater (buffered Tropic Marin in
RO/DI) instead of freshwater using my auto-top-off system. In the same
way, I am raising my Alk and pH with buffer, since they were dropping;
last week, the pH went as low as 7.8 and the Alk was tested at 6.9 dKH.
pH 8.11 (varies from about 8 to about 8.2 over the day) Temp 79.8F
(very stable) SG 1.024 Alk 7.5 dKH (was 6.9 four days ago) NO2,
NO3, PO4 undetectable My tank is 90g + 20g sump/refugium. <Changes
in the right direction... but still very rapid> Tankmates: no new
fishes have been added in many months. Here is the list: the 2 clowns, 1
golden hogfish, 1 flame angel, 1 lawnmower blenny, 1 purple
Pseudochromis, 5 blue/green Chromises. The clownfish seem to rule the
roost and none of the other fish bother them (though they are protective
of the Xenia and chase other fish away). They have been living in the
Xenia for at least 6 months; there's no anemone in the tank. I
usually feed the fish Pro Reef flakes and Formula 2 pellets once or
twice a day. I have not fed anything else in the past two months.
Let me know what you think. Thanks! Jason <Could just be the
changes in the water make-up... I urge patience here. Bob Fenner>
Re: Sick clownfish? Spg change 12/23/07 Hi Bob,
Thanks again for the advice. I am taking it and leaving the fish alone
for now. I have set up a hospital tank, just in case, that I hopefully
won't have to use! For future reference, what do you think is the
right time frame for adjusting my water as I did? <No more than a
thousandth of spg per day... and if this much change... no more than a
thousandth every two-three days. BobF> Thanks, Jason
Re: Sick clownfish? pH vacillation... 12/23/07 Hi Bob
(and crew), <Jas> Thanks for your replies and advice so far. The
clownfish is in stable condition -- not getting worse, maybe a little
more normal. However, something strange is definitely going on with
my water, which is probably related. I have a pH monitor (PinPoint), so
I can watch the pH all day (fun!). I 2-point calibrated it in early Dec.
The normal range in my tank seems to be 7.9-8.2 or so. As usual, the pH
goes down in the dark and up during lights on. Lately, though, I have
noticed the pH go DOWN at some point during the reef daylight. In fact,
it's happening right now, not too long before the lights go out for the
night. It is currently 7.93 and holding, though it dropped rather
quickly (less than 1 hour) from over 8.00. <Mmm, there is/should be a
small diurnal drop as this as well... usually early afternoon
equivalents...> I just tested a few other parameters: T = 80.4 F
Alk = 7.3 dKH Ca = 380ppm SG = 1.025 Top-off water has pH of
about 8.1. Besides pumps, the only water equipment I have are a
skimmer (EuroReef RS-80) and a phosphate reactor running GFO phosphate
media and poly-filters; I cut circular pieces of poly-filter as padding
for the top and bottom of the canister holding the GFO. Any ideas
why I am having this daylight drop in pH? Thanks, Jason <Could
be the phosphate removing gear... could be the probe needs
recalibration... This reading, fluctuation should not be a problem
though. Bob Fenner>
Clownfish, hlth., reading 12/19/07 Hi American Cousins and
festive wishes from across the pond in Jersey (the island of 'old'
Jersey not New Jersey!), <And to you> I have a possible problem
with one of my clownfish. I have done some research and I'm not sure
which way to go. My tank is 35 gallons and was until recently housing 2
juvenile clowns (Amphiprion ocellaris). I did however lose one up an
intake tube leading to a canister filter during the night. The canister
filter was only there to alleviate a small spike in nitrates that I had
and has now been removed. Tank has been running for approx 4 months,
only other inhabitants are a cleaner shrimp and some turbo snails and
hermit crabs. Tank parameters are now ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates <
5, gravity 1024, and temp approx 80 during the day and 77 at lights out.
The problem is that after the unfortunate loss I felt the remaining
clown was lonely and purchased another mate for him (never heard that
before, eh?). <Au contraire!> Although from the same shop, this
second clown is slightly larger. <Better by far to add a smaller,
subdominant individual> However, it is the colour difference between
the two that has concerned me the most. The original clown is much paler
than his new tank mate. At first I thought this might simply be a
natural difference in colour. However, the more observation and
research I have done, the more concerned I have become. The symptoms I
have noticed now include some of the classic danger signs mentioned on
your and other sites:- 1) Paler than new tank mate 2) Less active
than new tank mate and less active generally than he/she used to be.
Stays under a rock or close to substrate, minimal open water swimming.
3) Mouth almost constantly opening and closing (gasping). Does not go to
the surface for air, though. 4) Lack of interest in food. 5) I
have observed on at least 2 occasions stringy white faeces attached to
fish. The course of action I am undertaking/considering is as
follows:- 1) 30% water change undertaken yesterday. Small improvement
today but nothing drastic. 2) Considering a change of diet. Only food
fed at the moment is Nutrafin max marine complete food. Many sites
mention good marine flake (but never mention what that is, or which
brand), frozen food and live food and even garlic!? Any advice through
this minefield would be appreciated as I have yet to find a webpage to
simply state what a clown's balanced diet and feeding regime should be.
I am sure personal choice and circumstances dictate, but a few pointers
would really help. I am considering live brine shrimp, garlic soaking,
vitamins soaks and frozen foods. 3) Treat for parasites/protozoa
(considering) <I would... Metronidazole/Flagyl...> I am aware that
I am the original 'fiddler on the reef' and usually too impatient, so I
don't want to over react (as with the canister filter incident) and make
things worse. I currently don't have a quarantine tank and I am aware
that medications will have a profound impact on the inverts in my tank
if they are copper based <I would NOT use copper period> but I
just don't know if this fish is stressed due to tank conditions or
whether diet is the problem or whether parasites are the problem. My
instincts tell me that if fiddle too much (medicate) he may die anyway..
<You are correct> Richard <I'd read and observe a bit more. Start
here: http://wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm and the linked files
in-text and at top... Bob Fenner>
Clarkii Clownfish Acting Strange - Possibly Stung by his Anemone?
Injured Clarkii or Brooklynellosis? – 12/13/07 Hi from Fort
Walton Beach FL! <Hello Dawn! Brenda here, suffering through the
bitter cold!> First of all I just want to thank you for such an
awesome web-site! <You’re Welcome! Thank you for the positive
feedback!> My SW friend turned me onto it and I have passed it along
to another SW friend. <Great!> The site is absolutely invaluable
to any experienced or novice marine aquarist (like myself). Here's
my stats: 125 gal. SG: In between 1.023-1.024 Nitrate 10
Nitrite 0 Alkalinity 300 PH 8.0 Phos 0.1 Calcium 400
Iodine .06 Magnesium 1400 <Temperature?> Setup: Proclear
Aquatic wet/dry, Proclear Aquatic Protein Skimmer, Fluval FX5 w/nitrate
& phosphate sponge, and charcoal, and 2 Maxi-Jet 1200's, VHO lighting.
The 125 is an All Glass Megaflow with 2 overflows. Stock: Orange
Spotted Goby, A mated pair of Firefish, 1 blue green reef Chromis, 2
Clarkii clowns, 1 Domino damsel, 1 Bi-Color Pseudochromis, 1 Brittle
Starfish, 1 Anemone, <What species is the anemone?> 1 Mexican
feather duster, 1 Atlantic feather duster, 3 Mexican Turbo Snails, 5
Nassarius Snails, Zoanthids, Xenia, Glove Polyp, Hammer Coral, Torch
Coral, 2 Frogspawn, Candy Cane Coral, Bubble Coral, 110 lbs. of live
rock and several pounds of Tonga branch. Back to the larger of the two
Clarkii clowns. "Clark" took to the anemone right away and has been
really tank mates with it since I bought it (about 4 weeks ago). <It
is a pleasure to witness!> Yesterday, I noticed Clark was sucking the
tips of the anemone, sometimes more than one tip at a time; and, acting
out of character. I understand it is completely normal for clown fish
to suck anemones (through reading articles on your site) however, when
he was doing it he was laying sideways and panting heavily. Now today, I
see some type of lesion (kind of looks like burn marks) on the top of
his head and he is acting even more out of character. He has his mouth
open the entire time with a more labored breathing and now he is hiding
out, which he (she, you get the drift) has never done in the past. Could
it be possible that the anemone stung him? <It is not likely for this
to happen after 4 weeks. It is hard to say without a picture. I suspect
one of two things, an aggressive Domino Damsel or Brooklynellosis. My
guess is that it is Brooklynellosis. More information on Brooklynellosis
here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brooklynellosisart.htm > If so, will
they typically recover from such an event? I'm at a loss what to do
here. <It can recover from injury and Brooklynellosis. However, it
sounds like the Clarkii may be in the final stages of the disease.>
Since I'm new at the hobby (less than a year), I still freak out when I
notice something not right and test everything; but all is fine. <Did
you quarantine this fish and how?> I have searched your site the past
couple of hours and can't figure out what to do, if anything. I do have
a QT tank if I need to use it. <I would remove the clownfish and
place in quarantine. Read up on Brooklynellosis, and know how to treat.
If it is Brooklynellosis, the chance of this fish being alive by
morning, are slim. However, you may have more fish to treat. I would
also keep a close eye on the Damsel’s behavior. This fish can be very
aggressive and harmful. Anemones do best in a higher salinity. I
recommend slowly bringing your salinity up to 1.026 and reducing
nitrates and phosphates to zero. Also, your lighting may not be enough
to support an anemone long term. Can you give me more detailed
information on this? How long has this tank been up and running?> All
of the other fish seem perfectly content and normal. I appreciate your
assistance in advance. Dawn <Good luck to you Dawn! Brenda>
Re: Injured Clarkii or Brooklynellosis? – 12/13/07 Hi Brenda,
<Hello Dawn!> Thank you for your response. <You’re welcome!>
Wow, hoping it isn't the latter of the two. I did read the article and
it sounds like what he has. <Unfortunate, but it is not uncommon for
wild caught clownfish.> Expect he is gasping for air at the bottom of
the tank, not top. It's hard to tell with the lesions, but in any case,
he looks worse this morning. At this point, he won't make it, I can
tell. It's making me feel so bad. <I’m sorry!> Even though we
probably both suspect Brooklynellosis at this point, it was odd that the
Domino (yesterday) was swimming in front of Clark and fanning his tail
at his face. Hmmmm, why would he be doing that behavior? <Domino
Damsels can be evil! I have witnessed this myself many times. They are
not welcome in my tanks.> I'm not sure what species my anemone is. If
I had to guess, I would say maybe a carpet. <It is important to know
which species, so that you can provide the appropriate care.> It is
at the bottom of the tank and has burrowed his foot into the sand bed.
He has situated himself under a ledge of live rock so only has minimal
lighting and current in that location. <This is not good. It will not
last long under these conditions.> I have not moved him because my
experience is that they will just move themselves back where they want
to. <Correct! It will move looking for a suitable environment. If
there is not one available, it will deteriorate.> It is a kind of
dirty pink color, around 1" short tentacles that have a green tip on
them. Not the bubble tip shape. <The Bubble Tip anemone does not
always have bubbles. However in this case, I do not believe that you
have a BTA. It is likely an LTA or a carpet.> I did not QT Clark
yesterday because I wasn't sure what to do. My QT tank is I'm sure,
minimally acceptable. It is a tank on reserve that we don't use and keep
for emergency purposes. It's a 5 gallon "eclipse type" tank (I can't
remember name brand). It has a built in filter with removable media bag,
no heater (though it would be easy for me to buy one) and just a compact
florescent natural daylight tube. It doesn't have the ability to "cycle"
as it doesn't have any type of biological capabilities. <If the
clownfish is still alive, I would still remove. Take water from the
existing tank. I also recommend getting in the habit of quarantining all
new species, coral included.> I will work on raising salinity. Do all
of the other corals/fish do fine at 1.026? <Yes, and is closer to
their natural environment.> The lighting are 6' long VHO tubes. One
is white, one is the blue light. We also have moon lights for night
viewing. No halide lighting, etc. <This is not nearly enough lighting
for this anemone.> My temperature fluctuates between about 77-80
degrees. <I would keep closer to 80 degrees.> How long has the
tank been up and running. That's a loaded question that I'll explain. It
was setup the end up July, 1st of August this year. I didn't have any
inverts at this time. Everything was fine until October 4th middle of
the night. We heard a loud "pop" and then an ensuing waterfall. <Oh
my!!!> I knew what it was and I've been heartbroken ever since. <I
certainly would be too!> That's right, the bottom of the tank cracked
and all of the water, 125 gallons +, drained out in less than a minute.
<Ouch!!!! Do you know what caused the break? Was the tank not level?>
Our home looked like a beach with water and live sand. It actually
ruined/flooded our entire home. I lost most of my fish. I actually
started thinking once the wave of shock left me and reached into pick
the fish up off of the sand bed and tossed them in the sump. I then over
the next several days found temporary homes in my SW friends. <Good!>
I tossed all of the live rock into a 55 gallon bucket with SW and a jet.
I eventually got my hands on a borrowed 55 gallon aquarium that I set up
in the garage (while we remodeled our home which we are still doing).
With that being said, everything continued to be fine in the 55 gallon
while we tiled our house and put up baseboards. We finally got the
living area ready and moved back into the big tank, that was roughly a
month ago. <This is not long enough for an anemone. They need an
established environment, 6 months to a year, with one year being best.>
At that time, we started adding corals, the anemone and the like. We
also got our 2 fish that survived the disaster back; the goby and the
blue-green reef Chromis. Sorry for the long winded explanation. We have
all been through a lot lately. <I certainly see that!> This is
another reason I'm hoping it isn't Brooklynellosis, because mentally,
I'm still trying to recover from the above. <I hate to be the one to
bring you more bad news, but you will have more issues in the near
future with the anemone. It is best to remove soon and find it a
suitable home.> Thank you in advance. Dawn <You’re welcome Dawn!
Good luck to you! Brenda>
A newbie question about my newbies, Clownfish Illness 12/3/07
Hello Crew! Thanks for all of your wonderful information! <Thanks for
using it.> My husband and I are new to the hobby. We purchased an
Oceanic BioCube 29 gallon and added a protein skimmer and a MaxiJet 600.
We have about 30 lbs of live rock and 40 lbs of live sand. Water
parameters have been excellent! We do not have a heater, but the temp is
78-80 at any time. <Even at night? I would suggest getting one just
in case.> Lights are on a timer for 13 hours. We have 7 Hermit Crabs
and 7 snails (one is large turbo). We added 2 Peppermint Shrimp last
week to clean Aiptasia that developed. They are thriving. We also have a
mystery animal which arrived in the rock which appears to be some type
of clam. <Many hitchhikers like this.> There is a small crab that
showed up as well. We purchased 2 ocellaris today. They are swimming
around they tank being very active. They have fed well twice. I am
concerned about the (slightly) smaller clown. Tonight I noticed a
small white spot on his right gill and behind the adjacent fin. He does
not appear to be ill, but could this be an infection or a stress
reaction? <Could be nothing, but might be ich, need to watch closely
and be prepared to treat in a hospital tank.> Thanks for your advise!
This site is amazing! Amanda <Welcome> <Chris>
Clownfish with indentations 11/21/07 Hello, My Ocellaris
clownfish, whom I have had for nearly three years, has recently
developed two identical "dents" or indentations on both sides of the
white stripe closest to her eyes. <Would you send along a
close-up image of this please?> She has otherwise been behaving
completely normal. She lives in a 20g long tank with 20 lbs of LR, a
Tunze nano filter with Chemipure, and a couple of powerheads. I
have checked the chemical balances and found them all to be where
they should. I keep the salinity around 34 - 35 ppt. I use RO/DI
water for top offs and water changes. She is fed formula one pellets
with either Selcon, Zoë, or VitaChem along with garlic. Have you
encountered these indents before? Do you know why they have
appeared? <Mmm, perhaps a deficiency syndrome, maybe some sort of
mineral imbalance... could be from a few influences... I would add a
bit of live rock... to see if this condition might be relieved...
The fact that you state it is symmetrical...> I found one person
on your website that had asked this same question, and Bob replied
by saying it was likely a genetic thing or developmental. <Yes...
but this is not much of a useful stmt.... Does not lead to steps to
correct, or even understand...> With the age of my fish, though,
I am unsure if that is the case. <Clownfishes can live for about
20 years in captivity...> Thank you! It is much appreciated.
Sincerely, Heather <I would try the LR... a refugium, "mud"
filtration might reverse this situation. Please see WWM re FAQs on
"Rationale/Use" of each of these technologies. Bob Fenner>
Re: Clownfish with indentations – 11/21/07 I have attached
the best picture I could get. It is a subtle indent and looks like a
shadow almost (I hope you can tell where it is--it is the diagonal
line near the top of the white stripe). There are no other odd/new
markings on the fish besides these two dents. What sort of
deficiency? <Don't know... the lower vertebrates share the same
essential nutrient list as ourselves...> I recently did a 15%
water change with IO salt. I thought water changes helped with that
kind of thing. <Mmm, no> I did state in my previous email that
I have 20 lbs of live rock. The fish came from Petco (my mistake)
so if there is some sort of genetic issue at work here...I do not
know if that should be ruled out. Thank you for your prompt
response! Sincerely, Heather <I would do nothing more
here... IF this is something awry, deleterious... so be it. The fish
does appear healthy otherwise... and to be captive-produced. Cheers,
BobF> | 
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Sick clownfish but no way to quarantine 11/20/07 Hello, <Hi>
I have read many subjects on your site but can't find an answer to my
problem. I have a 20 gallon saltwater tank. The only fish that I have is
OC clownfish. I have other invertebrates including a peppermint shrimp,
snails, feather dusters. I have live rock. All of my water parameters
are excellent. My question is my fish is sick. I have had him 2 weeks
and 3 nights ago he started staying in the corner on the bottom of the
sand. All of his poo is stringy white and his color is starting to fade.
<Was it wild caught? Sounds like some sort of internal parasite.> He
has stopped eating (his appetite before was incredible) and I feed
Mysis, brine, marine formula mixture but he won't touch any of that. One
of his sides it looks like white little spikes on his skin. <Ich?>
The problem is I do not have a QT tank (I know fuss me out) and there is
no way that I can possibly set up one. Trust me if my fish makes it I
will not get another fish until I can set up a QT tank. <Get one
either way, not much you can treat for without it.> Therefore, from
all that I have read any medications that I could give him for possible
parasites would kill my invertebrates. <Yep> Is there anything
that I can do to help him and not kill everything else in the tank?
<Keep up the water quality, offer quality foods, that's about it.>
Please help me I don't want him to die. <Need a QT here, nothing
fancy, but not much can be done in the main tank.> If there is
something that I can do what names of medications can I use. <None
that are effective and reef/invert safe.> If you suggest medicated
foods how can I get him to eat it when he is not eating at all? <Look
into the New Life Spectrum line.> Thank you Donna <Welcome>
<Chris>
Clownfish with cotton like growths – 11/17/07 OK...so I
Googled it, and all indications suggest that it's a bacterial infection
that will clear up on it's own, but I figured I'd engage the experts :-)
I have an oceallis clownfish who's been in my tank for around a month
now, and doing well... however this morning when I said good morning to
him (yes, I say good morning to my clownfish), <I engage my Goldfish
in petty conversation... or should I state that they are kind enough to
speak with me as long as I'm not too obtuse> I noticed a small,
cotton like growth on one of his fins. It doesn't appear to be ich or
any of the other common health issues I could find, and his behavior
appears to be ok (although he was chilling a clot closer to a chunk of
live rock than he typically goes)...so the question is this...with only
my description to go on, do you think the info I found on the web is
accurate: that is, just to let him be and his immune system will fight
off the issue? <I would... perhaps bolstering the foods... with a
supplement> Thanks WWM folks, as always! Mitch <Welcome. BobF>
Sick Ocellaris clown... reading Hello WWM crew, I recently
bought two Ocellaris clowns from different pet vendors in my local area
about 5 days ago. <Wild-collected or captive-produced?> The
smaller one is starting to show trailing white feces and has not eaten
for two days now. <...> I checked all my parameters today, Friday
and found nothing out of the ordinary. Except for a nitrate of 12.5
everything else is 0 or normal. I believe I'm dealing with a parasite
and would like to medicate. <I believe you haven't read on WWM, but
are correct> The problem is I don't know if I need to medicate my
entire tank or just quarantine my fish. I have 4 shrimp (2 cleaner and 2
peppermint) and a bunch of hermit crabs. I was planning on feeding my
fish medicated jungle food (Active ingredients: Praziquantel;
N-[[(N-Chlorophenyl) amino] carbon 1]-2,6-difluorobenzamide;
Metronidazole; Acriflavine.) but I have read that I cannot use this
product with my inverts. So what should I do? <... You seem to have a
good grasp of the possibilities...> Could it be that my fish are
still stressed from the move? If I quarantine my fish and put them back
into my tank will they come down with the same parasite infection b/c of
larvae within the tank? Thanks for your help brad <Need to
isolate the Clowns... treat sequentially with protozoacide and
dewormer... or the blitzkrieg med. above... in a treatment tank...
Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm and the
linked files above... till you understand your options... Next time...
tank-bred specimens. Bob Fenner>
Raggedy Clownies... stung introductions Hey there! <Hi Tina>
First off, thanks for providing this immense resource. I have learned so
much from your site...I am a newbie to the saltwater hobby and couldn't
have started without you! <Welcome> I have a 90 gallon reef tank
that is about 2 1/2 months old. I run a DandD skimmer in the sump.
<Hee... I read this at first as a "Dandy" product...> I use filter
fiber to help pull particles out of the stream but don't use charcoal.
There are about 90 pounds of live rock in the tank. Tank parameters are
great: SPG 1.0024, <One decimal place off...> ammonia 0, nitrates
and nitrites are 0, temperature 78. I have two false percula clownfish
(juveniles) and 1 yellow Coris wrasse so far. I feed the fish pellets,
Mysis shrimp, and brine shrimp. <Mmm, not too much of this last...>
I also have a T. crocea, a sea urchin, emerald crab, many hermits and
snails, 2 peppermint shrimp and a coral banded cleaner shrimp. Corals
include xenia, elegance, candy cane, and very small frog spawn frag. So
that's the inventory so far. The xenia is pulsing like mad, so I don't
think water quality is an issue. My problem is that the clownfish have
back fins that are looking ragged, and are slowly getting worse. They
seem to be eroding away! I noticed this morning the pectoral fins are
starting to look bad too. I don't think this is clownfish disease or
another parasite, by all accounts these diseases move quickly and would
have killed them by now. <Yes> I should note that they were in a
quarantine tank for 3 weeks before I added them to the main tank, and I
noticed a slight raggedness to the fins even then. I suspect a bacterial
infection but I don't know how to treat it. Any suggestions? Your help
is greatly appreciated, I don't want to lose the little cuties. Tina
Henry in Connecticut <I fully suspect that your Clownfishes have
been trying to establish relations with one of the Euphylliids... the
Frogspawn or Elegance... with not much "stinging" success... Either the
cooperating parties (the Euphyllia hopefully) will "partner up" and your
clowns will heal... or they may be consumed or too damaged by coming in
contact with the Catalaphyllia... I would somehow screen this last
(maybe with a plastic "berry box" inverted over it... to keep the Clowns
away... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/clnfshanmfaq5.htm
and the linked files above... and maybe re the olde family name
Caryophylliidae re Compatibility... or the search tool (linked on the
left shared border on the root and all subwebs re "Ask the Crew A
Question" re "Clowns, Hosts, Disease" and read the cached views. Cheers,
Bob Fenner>
Sick Clown Fish... "Winnie the 'poo' doesn't know what to do...."
11/6/07 Hello, <Hi there> I have two small True Percula
clown fish. I've had one for about a month and the other for about
two weeks. So sign of any problems until a few days ago. I've
checked through several pages of the Clown Fish Disease FAQ pages on
WWM but I'm not finding a consistent pattern of what this could be
or how to go about treating my clowns. In all of my reading, I
learned a lot but not a direction to take with my Clown fish
problem. I know that the one mistake I made was not setting up a
Q-tank. I regret that now. <Ah yes> One has a very long (3")
white stringy poop that won't break off. It just keeps getting
longer. Both of their lips are puffy and they are not eating much.
Their mouths are always open. It appears from their gill movements
that they are breathing fast and generally are lethargic compared to
just a few days ago. Both Clowns seem to be getting pushed around in
the flow of the aquarium. My water quality appears to be very
good: 34G "All in One" Aquarium with Fuge. SG: 1.025
Ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 3-5 Calcium: 400 Alk: 8
dKH PH: 8.0 Water temp: 78.5 to 80 (various from night to
midday) Chaeto in sump is growing. All other fish <What
species?> appear healthy and are eating and all CUC <?>
inverts appear healthy also. <Again, what species?> I have
protein skimmer in use and it is producing dark green skimmate.
<Good> Does anybody know what the problem might be or if you can
point me in the right direction as far as a general medication I can
try. I really enjoy these fish and would hate to lose them.
Thanks, Mike <Such "poo" situations are often a matter of
some sort/s of luminal parasite issue... a concomitant or serial
treatment with a vermifuge (Prazi-something is popular nowadays) and
a protozoacide (often Metronidazole/Flagyl) usually "does it" if the
animals are not too far gone health-wise... But, the other life in
your system may be mal-affected. In other words, these Clowns need
to be treated elsewhere... The compounds, use, treatment system are
all covered on WWM. Please write back re specifics if you have
further questions. Bob Fenner>
Re: Sick Clown Fish 11/07/07 Thanks for helping out. I
really appreciate the information and the service you provide on
your website by answering so many questions. Sadly, before I could
get the hospital tank set up, I lost both of my clowns. They went
fast once they started showing symptoms of a problem. A Q-tank will
be in my future if I decided to try True Percs again. Mike
<Ah, good. Do seek out tank-bred stock. BobF> |
Is it fin rot? Clownfish reading 11/4/07 Hi
<Hello> I wonder if you could help. we have just set up a new marine
fish tank with live rock and sand. Water quality is good, ammonia,
nitrate and nitrite levels are low. we introduced two clown fish a
couple of weeks ago. The smaller of the two fish acclimatised well and
settled into the new tank and was swimming around within a few hours.
the larger of the two didn't like the acclimatisation - he was difficult
to get into the net and when we finally got him into the tank he hid
behind a rock for a good couple of days. <Happens. I take it these
are wild-collected specimens...> after the initial couple of days he
was swimming happily and feeding well so all looked fine. we've recently
noticed a slight fraying on the larger fish's anterior dorsal fin. all
other fins look ok and it is feeding and swimming well and breathing ok
but we think this could be the start of fin rot. we are new to fish
keeping but we did check fins etc when we bought them so we think this
fraying is new, however it doesn't seem to be getting any worse. our
question is, should we treat it now or wait for more symptoms, and if
the former, what is the best way to do this given that this is a new
tank? <Mmm, I would not "treat" this condition as yet> We also
introduced a fire shrimp last Friday and they all seem to be getting
along ok. <Ah, good> I'd be very grateful for any advice.
regards <Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/part2.htm the last tray at the
bottom... Bob Fenner>
White spot on clownfish, using WWM 11/4/07 Hello WWM
Crew, I have a pair of false percula clowns and I just noticed the
larger one has a white spot on her fin. She is swimming fine, eating
normally and acts like there is nothing wrong. On her bottom fin she has
a fuzzy white spot forming on the edge of the fin. All the other fish
are fine but I don't want to treat her for anything before knowing
what's wrong. It is the only spot she has. I have a 75 gallon with
the two clowns, LTA, a yellow tail damsel, Chromis, royal Gramma,
snowflake eel, choc chip star, and Bahamian star. Everybody has been
living together peacefully for 3 months. The system has been running for
6 months. I have 3 powerheads, 75-80 lbs live rock, crushed coral as
substrate. Specific gravity- 1.023 <A bit low> Ph- 8.0
Nitrates- 0 Nitrites- 0 Ammonia- 0 Phosphate- 0 Temp- 80-82
I know its hard to diagnose without a picture. I tried to get a picture
of the clown but she wont seem to pose for me. Please help so I can
properly treat her! Thanks, ~Michelle <Please put the term:
Clownfish, white spot... in the search tool here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/question_page.htm and read
the cached views. Bob Fenner>
New entrant into the Saltwater arena, Sick Clown 10/31/07 Hi,
<Hello> I'm back to trouble you. <No trouble> The percular
<Percula> clwns and the maroon got on fine but now I am seeing
something very peculiar. <?> One of my clowns has a red spot
in front of its mouth as if somebody's boxed him is going round and
round in circles as if his back bone is broken and hence looks
folded up and at times keeps on tumbling round and round while
swimming ( as mentioned on your FAQ's have seen this particular
phenomenon from one of your readers ) More importantly this fish is
not shutting his mouth continuously open. Pls. help <I'm not
sure I understand what you are seeing. Your fish has a permanently
bent spine and can not swim straight? Also he is unable to ever
close his mouth? If this is correct I think he may be experiencing
deformities due to Mycobacterium marinum, which is not treatable but
is able to be passed to humans so wear gloves from now on when in
the tank.> <Chris>
Re: New entrant into the Saltwater arena, Sick Clown 10/31/07
Hi, <Hello> It's not permanent bent spine but he seems to swim
n circles - yes he cannot close his mouth now he was ok a couple of
weeks back. <Seems to rule out Mycobacterium marinum.> . r u
<Are you> telling me that this is non curable - then what do I
do with my other clown, damsel and tang in the tank.....do I remove
the infected fish.......... <Does not sound like Mycobacterium
marinum with the new information. May be environmental, have you
tested your water lately? Could be damage from another fish, genetic
disorder, or bacterial. Hard to say for sure. Have you looked
through here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm and the
related FAQs for ideas?> <Chris>
Re: New entrant into the Saltwater arena, sick clown 11/1/07
Hi, <Hello> I think that the reason he was tumbling around
because his two small fins on the belly got kind off glued on to his
stomach and after it became straight or opened up he stopped
tumbling (this is my conclusion after 3 hrs of observation last
evening) <Clamped fins are often a sign of environmental
problems, check your water parameters.> and yes he does not close
his mouth - although he is breathing (one can see the gills move)
but the clown seems terrified . I now even have the yellow tailed
damsel and the electric blue damsel scaring him off. <Damsels are
quite aggressive and it is not surprising they are going after an
injured fish.> The red mark below his lip remains - he does not
seem to be eating - I presume because he cannot close his mouth .
Please Help am really concerned. regds <I would guess that he
has some sort of physical trauma. I would remove him to a hospital
tank and see if you can get him to feed without the competition in
the main tank.> <Chris> |
Clown fish belly growth 10/16/07 About 6 days ago, a small
white growth appeared by the anus of one of my tank raised
ocellaris. He was added to the display tank 4 weeks ago along with
another tank raised ocellaris after 6 weeks in quarantine with no
apparent problems. I recently went out of town for 4 days, and had a
friend watch my tank, and when I returned this "thing" had gotten
quite large. It's hard to see, but the size is apparent. He doesn't
seem distressed at all, and he eats well. He is just as social and
active as he has always been. I don't know what this thing is or
what to do about it. Should I put him back in quarantine? Medicate
him? <Is a prolapsed colon... part of the G.I. tract outside the
lumen...> The tank is a 90 gallon with 20 gallon sump, ~100lbs
LR, 5-6 inch sugar grain sand bed. Sg 1.24, Ph 8.2-8.4, Ammonia 0,
Nitrate 0, Phosphate 0. I do a five gallon water change about every
2-3 days. There is also a purple firefish, 3 green Chromis,
Swissguard Basslet, yellow watchman goby, hermit crabs and snails.
Variety of soft and hard corals as well. Nobody else has anything
similar on them, but I want to be sure to keep it that way.
Thanks as always for your insight! Josh <Real only time, good
care can/will tell here... the gut section may/hopefully be
retracted. Bob Fenner>
Re: Clown fish belly growth 10/16/07 I checked on the
ocellaris again this morning, and sure enough the prolapsed colon
seems to have withdrawn a bit. It is now only about half the size as
is seen in the previously attached photos. I will continue to keep
water parameters excellent. Should I be feeding him anything
special? I currently feed a mix of 6-7 types of frozen food (once or
twice a week soaked in garlic guard) and 2 types of flakes. I know
that if I were having similar problems I would want to eat something
that would pass easily - is this something I should worry about for
him? <I would look into Spectrum pelleted foods as a staple...
Completely nutritious and highly palatable> Thanks for helping me
figure out what the problem was, and as always for being such a
great resource! Josh <Welcome. BobF> | 
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Sick clownfish... more reading 10/16/07 I’ve been reading
your forum since I got my clown fish 7 weeks ago. I purchased 2
clowns and added them along with some rock to my 55 gal setup. This set
up had been established 3 months with 2 yellowtail and 2 blue damsels,
<... likely staked out all the damsel territory...> and 5 hermit
crabs. Both were feeding and eating very well, making use of the tank
and generally doing well… so I thought. After 4 days I noticed the
smaller clown had started losing small chunks from its tail. After
consulting your site and the aquarium shop I was told the damsels must
be attacking them- even though I had not witnessed anything to support
this. Them damsels didn’t seem to both them at all. To make sure I
removed the damsels from the tank as I was going to return them anyway,
and set them up in my 10 gal tank. <Won't live there for long> 2
days later both clowns were still feeding well, enjoying the tank, but
the smaller one appeared to have a grey coat forming from the fins back.
I rushed to the shop and purchased MelaFix as advised, <...> but
when I got back the bigger clown which hadn’t shown any symptoms was
dead at the bottom of the tank. I immediately quarantined the clown
in the 10 gal and treated with the MelaFix. Next day smaller fish still
alive but resting at bottom of tank on it’s side and not eating.
Shop suggested treating with ick cure ((formalin and malachite green)(
carbon removed from filter). <... from bad to worse> And to try
PimaFix with the MelaFix. <Ridiculous...> Fish slowly got a bit
better but still huddled on bottom of tank, was never able to witness it
eating or swimming. 5 weeks later I went away for the weekend, made
sure levels we all ok and added a 7 day feeding block. <Of very
little food value... more a source of pollution> When I got back 2 ½
days later grey coat started to re-appear. Nitrate levels had spiked
really high. So immediately performed water change, changed filters etc.
and retreated with ick cure, then MelaFix and PimaFix. Its now been 7
weeks and the fish is still very pale and doesn’t move much. Recheck
of levels are still same so cant work out why my clown isn’t getting any
better. Water levels are: temp 75.6f, spec. grav. 1.021, <Too
low...> nh3/nh4 ammonia 0ppm, high range ph 8.2, nitrate no2 0ppm,
nitrate no3 0ppm. Using air bubbler and whisper power filter. Live
sand and 3-5lb coral rock. Must be doing something right as he’s
still with me, but am concerned he’s not appearing to pick up? Any
suggestions? Thanks. Tracy Brooks <... keep reading. Try going
over the products you list here as treatments... the article and FAQs
files on Clown Disease... Bob Fenner>
Clown with pectoral bubbles, no useful data - 10/08/07 Hey
quick question for you guys. I have a pair of clowns and they seem
really happy. They are always hungry and respond well to human
interaction around the aquarium always swimming up to the glass when
your close. They will even come up to the glass when you lightly
touch or tap it and check you out. Everything seems really happy. I
noticed tonight after staring at the tank for awhile that my smaller
clown (male?) has these bubbles around his pectoral fins. He cannot
bring the fins flat against his body like the female does. He seems
happy and hungry and swims just fine but the bubbles have me
worried. They look like swelled tissue around the fins. Any Ideas?
Here's a picture. Jason Hutchison <... the system? Water
quality tests? Foods, feeding? History of your acquisition...
Appears to be a wild caught specimen with subcutaneous growths of
some sort... Might be parasitic... I would buy captive-produced
only... And read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm
and the linked files above... And review other peoples queries... to
gain insight to providing useful data. BobF> | 
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Clownfish illness - 10/07/2007 Dear Crew, <Kevin> Thanks
for the great service you provide to all of us amateur hobbyists out
there. <Welcome> Here's my problem. My friend and I recently
introduced a small ocellaris clown into an established (3 year old) reef
tank containing a yellow watchman goby, a fridmani Pseudochromis, and a
large ocellaris clown. There seemed to be immediate attraction between
the two clownfish and there was no overt aggression from the other fish.
Unfortunately the small clownfish (who had been quarantined for 4 weeks)
soon developed an eruption of something that looked like ich, which the
larger clownfish eventually developed also. <Mmm, not the other
fishes though? This is likely Brooklynella... looks very similar> We
immediately put both of the fish into quarantine and treated them with a
formalin/malachite green solution, which seemed to do the trick. After 3
weeks of quarantine we figured that it would be safe to reintroduce the
clownfish (who had been doing very well in the meantime), since the two
other fish did not seem to be affected at all. <Mmmm> This turned
out to be premature... both clownfish quickly acquired parasites again
after being reintroduced. <Yes... not enough time, and the other
fishes may have acted as reservoir hosts> My question is about what
to do now. It would be virtually impossible to capture the other two
fish in the main tank without dismantling it, but they haven't shown any
signs of disease and have been eating and behaving normally since this
all began. Should we wait another 4 weeks and then try again, or are the
odds that it is unsafe to reintroduce the clownfish ever, in case the
other two fish are asymptomatic hosts of whatever disease has afflicted
our poor tank? <I would remove all... even if this requires
dismantling the tank> Thanks! Chris <Bob Fenner, out in the
Bahamas... where the water is warm and clear, and the Net is sloooow>
Clownfish Not Eating, White Stringy Feces, Possible Internal Parasite –
10/1/07 <Hello, Brenda here> Here are my specs before I ask my
question: 30 Gallon Breeder Tank (setup since April 2007) No Sump
Coralife 65g Skimmer 1 Yellow Watchman Goby 1 Firefish 1 Court
Jester Goby 1 Percula Clown 2 Fire Shrimp 2 Sun Corals 1 Pom
Pom Crab Okay, so here is my question. I work at a local fish store
and I hand picked my Percula clownfish that I added to my tank. He ate
well at the store so I brought him home 3 days ago. I acclimated him for
2 hours (I knew the water chemistry was very similar to mine because I
test it every day at work). He has great colors, but he won't eat
anything. So far in 3 days he's eaten 2 pellets. I've tried brine
shrimp, Mysis shrimp, plankton, bloodworms, daphnia, Cyclop eeze, squid,
even live brine shrimp and he hasn't bitten. What gives? Just getting
comfortable you think? Anything else I should try? One thing that really
concerns me is he has a whitish stringy poop. He hasn't eaten anything
and stringy poop has always signaled an internal parasite or some
illness in my experience. What can I do?!?! <It does sound like it
may be an internal parasite to. I suggest using Metronidazole.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/metranidazole.htm
Use only in a quarantine tank. Brenda>
Clownfish with furry spot on skin. Copepods? 10/1/07 Hi,
<Hello> I have attached the best photos of the problem. My two
Immature black onyx clowns each have a raised white cottony spot on
their sides. <How long have you had these fish? Were they
quarantined?> One by the gill (primo) and the other on the side
(Segundo). <I see these... and some are definitely telling...>
Segundo has had it for the past 4-5 days and the other just
developed today or we noticed today. It developed like a whit
stringy or cottony mass and today the mass seems to have solidified
into a cotton ball. It sounds like fungus. They are both swimming,
eating and breathing normally. I called the LFS where they were
bought and they thought it was cauliflower and suggested use a
garlic soaked food. Can you help with prognosis and treatment?
<At least two of the pix look to be copepod parasites... and perhaps
the others are tissue mass resulting from same... I would formalin
dip the fish... and use an organophosphate based med. in a treatment
system... and add a purposeful cleaner organism (likely a Gobiosoma
goby or a Lysmata shrimp) to the main system...> I am new to reef
keeping. Please see water parameters below. In my 34 gal red sea
max I have 2 young clowns, 1 Dottyback, 2 jawfish, <Need more
room> many snails and crabs and numerous corals, mostly frags,
one blue star one orange star, and two serpent stars. The tank has
been up for 3 months, I use a chiller and UV sterilizer, keep the
temp. at approx 75 degrees. We cycled the tank correctly, but in a
hurry added fish over a 3 week period without a quarantine, <...>
the clowns first, then the strawberry dotty, and this past week a
mated pair of jawfish. I have a deep sand bed, a few days ago I
added 2 cups of new live sand <This may be the source of the
parasite> to my 40 pounds, followed the Carib-sea directions
because I did not want to cycle anything and I was ready to make
many water changes, mixed thoroughly with "old" live sand and had
planned to do this over a few days to make a deeper sand bed for the
newest of the fish added, the jawfish. A day or two later I noticed
a lot of micro organisms in the sand and on the glass sides, look
like Cyclops and some blobby ones, not sure what they eat or if they
photosynthesize but I have no algae on the glass any more. I do
regular W/C to keep the ammonia low, because I cant seem to get it
to zero. The water chemistry went up with the new sand and I once I
noticed the change I did a 20% water change along with 5% w/c for
the last 3 days. I use tropic marine salt water mix with distilled
water, not RO. I am not sure that one is related to the other, but
the white mass may have been stress related. I am prepared to get a
quarantine tank running and treat the sick fish if needed, but I
don't know how much time I have and I don't want to infect the tank
any more than it already is. Thomas Lloyd Cetta <Please read
re crustacean parasites of marines, formalin... use on WWM... Bob
Fenner> | 
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