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FAQs about the Diseases of Clownfishes 16
Related FAQs: Clownfish Disease 1,
Diseases of Clownfishes 2, Diseases
of Clownfishes 3, Clownfish Disease
4, Clownfish Disease 5,
Clownfish Disease 6, Clownfish
Disease 7, Clownfish Disease 8,
Clownfish Disease 9, Clownfish
Disease 10, Clownfish Disease 11,
Clownfish Disease 12, Clownfish
Disease 13, Clownfish Disease 14,
Clownfish Disease 15, Clownfish
Disease 17, Clownfish Disease 18,
Clownfish Disease 19, Clownfish
Disease 20, & FAQs on Clownfish Disease By:
Environmental Stress, Nutrition,
Social/Behavioral/Territoriality,
Trauma/Mechanical Injury, & Pathogens:
Lymphocystis, Infectious Disease
(Bacteria, Fungi...), Protozoans:
Cryptocaryon/Ich, Amyloodinium/Velvet,
Brooklynella (see article below), &
Mysteries/Anomalous Losses, Cure,
Success Stories, & Clownfishes in General,
Clownfish Identification, Clownfish
Selection, Clownfish Compatibility,
Clownfish Behavior, Clownfish Systems,
Clownfish Feeding, Clownfishes and
Anemones, Breeding
Clowns, Related Articles:
Clownfish Disease, Clownfishes,
Maroon Clowns, Marine Disease, Brooklynellosis, | 
Is it just an owee from rubbing?
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Saddleback Clown Injury 5/4/07 I recently started stocking my
newly plumbed 125 gal. tank. One of the first to go in was my
saddleback clown. For the first three weeks she seemed happy as a clam,
although I did notice some slight cloudiness to her eyes which I
attributed to the lighting in the holding tank I had her in
previous. That seemed to clear up rather quickly though and three weeks
later I deemed it time for her apparent friend (a blue regal tang) to
come out of ich rehab. Now it's been two days since the Tang's
re-introduction, and now the saddleback has a nice gash in her head
(flap of skin and all), <they are called surgeonfish for a reason> a
vertical white streak below one of her pectoral fins and a small patch
of grey-white on the front tip of her dorsal fin. The marks don't
particularly look like ich to me, and I've not seen any scratching
against the rocks, but she does dive into the same area of sand somewhat
often and has created a nice crater which she seems to enjoy spending
most of her time. <Digging is normal for clowns.> I also recently added
three emerald crabs, which she tried carrying off the second each one
started floating down. Before I write a novel; my question is this: Do
these symptoms resemble a disease or infection, or is it more likely
that she's just got some scrapes from "horsing around"? <Not horsing
around, getting beat up by the tang and it "scalpel".> Any insight would
be tremendous. Thank you, Jules <Need to watch this very
closely. If the tang's aggression continues the fish will need to be
separated. The tang can do serious injury with their tail spines.>
<Chris> Clownfish Stressed... 4/26/07 Here's
what's going on... <Uh-oh, you sound like one of my Training
Officers....am I in trouble?> We have two false Percs one seems fine
while the other appears to be hiding. <How long have you had them?
Mated pair?> It also looks to have a cut above it's lip with a white
spot on it, he/she also has what looks like twine hanging off the under
side. <Sounds like an abrasion that may be inflamed...I would not
worry just yet, maintain pristine water quality and feed a varied diet.>
The eyes look a little larger than normal and the lips look to be a
lighter shade of orange. <Sounds like am environmental/ water
quality issue.> The fish does seem to be eating a little but not
like it use to. I had the water tested and everything was in great
shape. <That is good but in the future we prefer
specifics...we may see something you do not.> What led up to this is
we moved the tank and of course drained off the water about 30% and
added new water to the tank from a reliable LFS that we always get our
water from. I'm not sure if I poured the water in too fast and stirred
things up or what but I just want my clown back. <With
such a large/recent move I doubt that the nutrient levels are
optimal...and I'm sure the ordeal has the little bugger stressed. Can
you move him/her to a quarantine in the meantime while he/she recovers?>
One other thought is a couple of days before I found this same fish had
jumped from the main part of the tank into the filtration part of the
back of the tank. We got him out and everything seemed normal though....
Thanks for your help on this.... <Of course, Adam J.>
Clownfish Color Loss question - 4/26/07 Hello there! <Hi
there!> I emailed you a few days ago about the odd behaviour
occurring between my two clownfish. I found out that they were fighting
because of the fact that they are now deciding which one is female and
male. However, I have a new issue that has recently occurred. It seems
that the male who is hiding from the female has begun to somewhat lose
his color. The female is a vibrant orange color while the male is
becoming less vibrant, and a little paler. He is still orange and white
however he is not nearly as vibrant as my female clownfish. I was
wondering if this is a problem or if this totally normal! <Sounds
like he may be a bit stressed (and who can blame him!). Other than being
a little paler, is he eating okay, swimming and breathing normally? If
everything’s fine there, I’d just keep an eye on him, offer nutritious
foods and keep his water in tip top shape. Let us know if there are any
changes.> Thx for all your help guys! You've helped me with a lot of
situations!! Much love! <You’re very welcome! Take care –Lynn>
Re: Clownfish color loss question - 4/27/07 Thank you for
replying so quickly! Unfortunately, I lost him tonight. <I’m so sorry.>
When I came back home from work, the female was attempting to eat him,
as he had already died:(. I was wondering if you could tell me what was
wrong with him? He was eating perfectly fine before, he was active
whenever the female wasn't chasing him. However, since the female
started chasing him, he began to hide constantly, only coming out to
feed. He started to lose color, but he never accumulated any white
spots, or bumps. <Good> He was breathing fine, although I found that he
would breathe a little faster after the female would have stopped
chasing him. <Normal> So I was wondering if you could give me a little
insight on what happened to him? <Could have been a number of things,
but my guess is that it was stress related.> Also I would like some
advice on what to do next. <I’d keep an eye on the other fish, continue
good husbandry.> I have a female clownfish now, so should I go buy
another clownfish for a mate? <You can if you like. Just make sure it’s
the same species, smaller than the one you have, and quarantine it for
the requisite 4 weeks. I’d make sure he’s well fed and in good shape
before adding him to the tank.> Please help me! Thx for all your help!!
<You're very welcome and again, I'm sorry to hear about your fish.
-Lynn> Blind Clownfish? - 4/26/07 Hello, <Hi Kathy>
A have a 10-gallon tank with 2 clownfish. About 2 weeks ago, my father
cleaned the tank completely (walls, rocks, plants, etc.) and bought
about 10 snails and crabs <Hermit crabs?> (they all add 10). A few days
after the tank was cleaned and the snails and crabs were added, <Too
many inhabitants in such a small tank. Ideally, the snails and crabs
should have been QT'd as well – lots of information at WWM on this.> one
of my clownfish started acting very weird. He would swim on his side, he
spent a lot of time at the bottom of the tank and he seemed to be blind
because he does not chase the food any more when I feed him. Now he
spends a lot of time in the surface of the tank, and still doesn't chase
the food, it seems like he has gone blind, sometimes he swims from the
top to the bottom of the tank and he crashes when he touches the bottom.
The only way he can eat is when I feed him and he bumps into the food. I
give them frozen shrimp. <Need a varied diet. Please see the information
at this link:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nemoproart.htm > What can I do? What
could have caused my fish to get blind? <Could be related to water
quality, nutrition, infection, any number of things. Do the eyes appear
clear, or cloudy, etc? Please read FAQ’s available at WWM through
Google’s search engine. Just type in “blind clownfish”:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/Googlesearch.htm > Could this
blindness be a temporary problem? <Could be.> My other fish is good and
healthy. Any advice on how to help my blind fish would be greatly
appreciated. <What are your water parameters (ammonia, nitrites,
nitrates, pH, specific gravity, etc)? The first thing I would do is
check those numbers. Ammonia and nitrites should be zero and nitrates
shouldn’t be over 40ppm. If anything is amiss, then a water change,
possibly several, is called for. Unfortunately, a ten gallon tank is
really too small for all of these inhabitants. Consider that the rule of
thumb is one cubic inch of fish/life to every five gallons of water and
you’ll start to see what I mean. You also have to factor in the existing
rock and substrate. You may only have 8 or so actual gallons of water in
there. Small, "nano" tanks can be wonderful, but they can be a big
challenge to keep stable. Please read the information at these links:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnsysfaqs.htm.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/smmarsys.htm > Thanks Kathy
<You're most welcome and I hope your little fishie gets better! -Lynn>
Clownfish with Pimples 4/26/07 Hello. <Brian.>
I am having a problem with my pair of Percula Clowns. <I'm here to
help.> My tank is a 92g reef with about 115 lbs. of LR. I am
currently running a octopus skimmer and carbon occasionally. Basically
my clowns have a few large white lumps on their bodies. I have had ich
in the past and this does not look like any ich I have ever seen.
<Sounds like possibly a bacterial infection, perhaps stemming from a
physical wound, common with clowns. See WWM re: clown disease.> The
white lumps are rather large, about a centimeter or so in size, and
there is only 1 or two of them on each clown. They have had this problem
for about 1-2 months now. The lumps seem to be well rooted in their
skin, and somewhat resemble a large pimple. Whenever the lumps pop (I am
not sure they pop, but eventually they will no longer be there) they
leave behind a nice torn section of skin. It looks like the fish had a
small explosion on their bodies. No other fish are affected by this
problem, even my desjardinii is free of spots. I have never even seen a
trace of a spot on another fish. The clowns are happy as usual, feeding
just as voraciously as usual, and show no signs of fatigue or
discoloration. Do you have any idea what could be affecting my clowns?
<What are you water parameters? Can you provide a pic by chance? This
usually stems from environmental issues, perform a water change, feed a
varied diet...and please resend with test results. Read here as well:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clndisfaqs.htm . (There are many more
linked at the top).> I greatly appreciate any help you can
provide me. Thanks. <Good luck.> Brian <Adam J.>
Re: True Percula Clownfish - Info doesn't go much past this!
4/25/07 That is as many fish as I am going to put in it.
LOL The clownfish is now lying on his side. <I’m hoping that this
“lol” is subtle irony and that you actually don’t find this situation
amusing – if you do then maybe this hobby isn’t for you, I hear
taxidermy is on the revival – “lol”> He was swimming around like
normal now he is on the bottom of the tank lying down. Is that normal?
<I would test all levels again, especially ammonia. Hopefully he is just
recovering from the earlier stress but it would definitely be worth
placing him back in your quarantine tank alone for prospective
treatment. Olly>
Clownfish Concerns 4/24/07 Good evening, <Elizabeth>
I'll just get right to it... What is clownfish poop supposed to
look like? <Depends... to a large degree, on what they've been
fed> I have 2 clownfish and while they both behave
normally- swimming and wiggling around, eating well- I have noticed
that one of them has had whitish stringy poop and is holding his
fins close to his body while swimming. I have read that this could
be symptomatic of an internal parasite. <The operative word here
is "could"> This is my first saltwater aquarium so I am not
really sure what to make of this. I thought all fish (except
the really big ones) had stringy poop. I am attaching a
picture of both of the fish. The top fish is the one I am concerned
about. If this is a problem should I remove only the infected
fish or is it likely that by now both fish have the parasite and
should be quarantined/treated? Thank you very much, Eli
<Mmm... how long have you had these fish? Are they wild-caught or
captive produced? What re their system, feeding, water testing...
You have read on WWM re Clownfish Systems, Disease? Bob Fenner> | 
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Sick/Dying Clownfish... Cerianthus!? 4/23/07 Hey guys, I
tried to post a question in the forum but for the past 2 months I have
not been able to register as a new member (says it's temporarily down)
<I have repeatedly sent a note to the "sysop" (Lorenzo) re these
notes... will do again here. We/WWM does NOT "run" WWF...> I've
searched and searched your archives but am still unsure as to what I
should do. I have a 40G SW tank with 30Lbs LR. 3 corals, 1 mushroom
and 2 tube anemones. <These last, Cerianthids... are problematical
with other species... fishes and invertebrates of many kinds... Please
read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/tubeanem.htm and the linked FAQs file
above> My water quality is Nitrites 0, Nitrates .15, Ammonia
.1. (Have been struggling to get my #'s to 0 ) I do weekly 15% water
changes with deionized water. I am currently waiting on my 200G
setup. I have 1 Tang, <Not enough room for one here> 1 Fire
fish, 1 yellow Goby and 1 clownfish. Truth be told, this is my fourth
clownfish. I've bought them all from the same place over the course of
a few months. All have died, and I'm waiting on the outcome of this
last one. <... small doubt THE reason could/likely is the
Cerianthus> The first pair I bought, one died the day after I
brought him home. Next one I added had Brooklynella, I tried FW dip and
Formalin dip, but he died in the QT tank. Last but not least was my
love, Nemo, he was the original and lasted 5 months until a sick anemone
fell on him. Now is the last of my clownies. He has been gallantly
hanging on for the past 4 days. White spot on his side, no stringing
feces like the last one, mouth gaping wide open with labored
breathing. Stays in one spot, under a coral. Darts out when fed but
will not eat. Since I had trouble with my anemone I did a 50% water
change (2 weeks ago) and put the anemone into a QT tank. EVERYTHING
else is doing fabulous. My question to you is should I attempt the FW
dip? Or help him out of his misery? (bag in freezer) Or just leave him
to his agony? <Do you have another tank/system to use for
treatment?> Whatever happens, this will have to be my last clowny
until I get my new setup. Clowns are my absolute favorite fish and this
is just making me heartsick. Any advice (or berating) would be ever so
appreciated. Thank you in advance, and thank you for having a site
where people can go to for help in this mysterious fishy world.
Karley <Mmm... no need (or desire) for mystery here. Do read re the
Anemones... they are likely the source of the nitrogenous anomaly as
well. Bob Fenner> Re: Sick/Dying Clownfish 4/23/07
Just an update, I couldn't take it anymore so I gave him a FW dip. (same
temp, same PH, with a air fizzy stone) He only lasted in there 3
minutes, due to the thrashing about I took him out. The white "thingy"
came off of his body and now it looks like a red gouge in his side. His
mouth is still open, breathing still laboured. I have formalin but
since the last one died after that dip I hesitate to use it unless you
think it is what he needs. Thank you! Karley <... no way to
tell from here... and you didn't attach/include prev. corr., so I don't
know/recall your circumstances... Bob Fenner>
Missing
Clownfish. - 04/17/07 Hello again, <Hi Sarah, Mich with you
again.> My 55 gallon saltwater tank currently houses live rock, a
handful of snails, 2 true perc. clown fish and a mandarin goby. Last
night around 8 pm my tank was perfectly fine, 3 hours later one of my
clowns was missing! <Uh-oh!> I looked around the outside of the
tank and I didn't find anything, so I looked around my tank some more
but didn't see anything. I woke up this morning and continued to look
once the lights came on and again, I'm down to 1 clown and one mandarin
and that's all I see. Everything else seems to be normal (water
included). The equipment is working properly. I do have covers on my
tank, but there is a 2 inch gap along the back because of the equipment,
but still, no fish on the ground. <Fish can flip themselves a
surprisingly far distance away from the tank.> Now, I know you can't
tell me what happened to my fish, but what are some things that could
have happened? I don't see it outside my tank at all and I don't see a
clown carcass inside my tank at all, so I am really dumbfounded. I
don't know if this matters or not, but the clown that is missing was the
larger of the two (presumably the female) so could she have hidden to
lay eggs or could the mandarin goby have eaten it (doesn't seem likely
at all since it really just eats the "bugs" in my tank). Any help or
speculation would be greatly appreciated. <All are possibilities,
though it would be highly unlikely that the Mandarin would eat the
carcass.> Also, I know clowns like to be in pairs,
should I get one more clown to make a pair again, or would the size
difference become a problem or the fact that they weren't purchased
together? <You could get another, though I would get one that is
significantly smaller than you remaining fish. You may want to consider
picking up a copy of Joyce Wilkerson's book titled "Clownfish". -Mich>
Re: Missing Clownfish. 4/19/07 <Hi Sarah, Mich with you
again.> Now, a really stupid question, how far could the clown have
jumped out of my tank, if that's what happened? <Mmm,
would not likely jump very far.> Are we talking inches, feet or
yards? <However, after it launched itself, it could have flipped
around on the floor and traveled quite a large distance...possibly
several of yards, even more if there are any 4 legged critters in your
home.> Now if it were hiding to lay eggs or something, which I don't
even know if that's what they do, the fish would
reappear after 2 days, wouldn't it? <One would
think... but stranger things have happened.> My gut is telling me it
jumped, unfortunately, but I really can't find it! <Carpet surfing
hide and seek? I do hope the clown emerges alive and well in you tank,
but the more time that passes the less likely this is to occur. Do you
have a sump? Did you check there? If it were me, I would be checking
in a large arc around the tank.> Thanks for the tip on the book,
I'll have to take a trip to the bookstore this week.
<Excellent! -Mich> Clown Sick, Water Quality Issues...
4/11/07 Hello crew! <Hi Stacey.> Our false percula
clownfish has been acting strange for at least two weeks now.
<Uh-oh, let's see if I can help.> We've had her over a year
now. For a few days, she lays on the sand behind the rocks, and breaths
rapidly, and then for a day, she'll start swimming at the surface.
<Have you tested the water? What are the results?> She hasn't eaten
in over 2 weeks, and one day we think she's taking her last breath, and
the next day she's swimming again. She does have a single white spot on
her rear left side, but we think it's from abrasion. She looks very
thin, but again, I think this is because she hasn't been eating. We
recently started 10% water changes every day, but that's more for our
red slime algae. Do you have any ideas of what she might have, or
how we can help? <Well you mentioned red-slime algae, Cyanobacteria.
This means you have some water quality/nutrient issues. I would suspect
some high nitrate levels at the least, and perhaps oxygen levels that
are too low. I'd like to see water test results before I advise you any
further but a some extra water changes wouldn't hurt. If you have a
quarantine tank it might not be a bad idea to move the clown there.>
Thanks for your time! <No problem.> Stacey <Adam J.>
Help with possible disease 4/8/07 Dear Crew: <Fites>
We ordered and received some snails, Gracilaria and a pair of
Ocellaris from Aquacon yesterday. All of our livestock has been
acclimated and placed in a hospital tank. <...? Not a "termed"
Quarantine?> The tank has new water that was mixed a week ago
and aerated. <I would use water from an established "clean"
system here> The water used is RO, and the salt is Instant
Ocean, mixed to 1.0245 S.G. using a calibrated hydrometer. The
snails all appear healthy. The tips (the last two inches) of the
Gracilaria have turned white. <Typical... from being in the
dark, new water conditions...> The biggest worry is the large
female clown. When first placed in the tank (yesterday morning),
she had a white "pimple" on the bottom of the chin. Today, she
has a while film (mucus) sloughing off of her back (photo
attached). Is this normal from being caught and shipped, or is she
sick? <Mmm, much more likely the latter... the chin from
rubbing, the slime from the new water...> If she is sick, can
you please tell me the best course of action? <Move some water
from the established tank/s you have about...> Her small male
has eaten bits of food offered (Hikari - marine S). The female has
not eaten, but appears to be swimming normally. We have never had a
sick animal in this hospital tank, and cleaned it thoroughly with
fresh water and a scrubber before filling it with salt water. I did
not search for advice on this one, because the change has happened
quickly, and I don't want a misdiagnosis to cost this lovely
creature her life. Thank you for understanding. Thank you as
always for all you do, Brad in Basalt <No need/cause for
panic here... Bob Fenner> |  |
Re: Help with possible disease 4/8/07 Thanks for the
encouragement Bob. My words weren't meant to convey panic, but
rather love and respect for my little fish. We have waited for two
years to buy a pair of clowns. So, it is somewhat like having a new
baby. As soon as the baby sneezes, young parents are one the
phone to the good doctor. I will do as you say and put 20% seasoned
water from our main tank into the quarantine tank. I'm uncertain
about your question "not a "termed" Quarantine?" though.
<Sorry re the confusion Brad... What I meant/mean is you term the
intermediate system here a purposeful "treatment" tank, rather than
a quarantine... I think in actual fact/practice what you have is the
latter... You don't intend to administer medicine/s...> The
manager of the distributor who supplied our clowns was very
helpful. He told me that "anyone who is going to care for clownfish
must learn how to do a freshwater dip". So, I floated a rectangular
vessel of RO water in the quarantine tank <Mmm, must need
interject that this water needs to be aerated (RO has no gas to
speak of)... and pH-adjusted... to at least 7.8... or close to the
ambient/shipping water...> until the temperature had
equilibrated. Thereafter, the female clown was given a ten-minute
dip per his instructions. I know that you have been in the industry
for decades and are educated on such matters, so I will search to
see if you have written any articles on the wisdom of such a
practice. <Oh, yes... I have> This fellow said I should
perform these dips daily until any signs of mucus are gone.
<Mmm...> I hope this is not along the same lines as leaches and
blood-letting! <Perhaps> I hope all is going well for the
WetWebMedia crew. Thank you sincerely for all you do for all of us
who are wet behind the ears. Brad in Basalt <Wish I was
right now! Am out for a swim in a bit... visiting with friends in
HI. Bob Fenner> |
Re: Clowns dying, & Haliotid sel., 4/15/07 Good Morning
Crew: <Fites> One week ago I received a shipment of snails,
a small green abalone, some red Gracilaria macro algae and a pair of
clowns. The Gracilaria was placed in a quarantine tank with good
seasoned (1 week) water with water parameters in order (pH 8.1, Alk
160ppm, Ca 350ppm, Temperature 77.4 degrees F, Nitrites, Nitrates
and Ammonia all zero). The animals were drip acclimated and then
placed in the same tank with the algae (photo attached). <I see
them/these> The next day, the abalone had not moved and was
pronounced dead and decomposing. <Very typical... haliotids are
not easily kept in captivity... and many/most of the species sold
are unsuitable (not-tropical)> No Ammonia was measured, but
Nitrite was measured at .1ppm. A water change was immediately done,
and the bottom of the glass tank was vacuumed of any detritus from
the abalone. The fish have had white mucus on their bodies since
the first day and have progressed downhill in health since then
(based on slowing of movement and not eating). <Mmm, and maybe
more than just mucus> I have performed several freshwater dips
(temperature adjusted, and pH adjusted RO water) per Aquacon because
they hold the 30 day guarantee on these little guys. <Wow, a
very long warranty> The dips remove the white mucus, but now
there is pink mucus emerging from the top of the large clown's gill
plate. Two colors of Gracilaria were shipped to me, one red and the
other dark brown. The dark brown has been slowly disintegrating.
From reading on the WWM, I suspect that the decomposition of the
macroalgae may be giving off some sort of toxin. <Could be...>
I have just removed the algae and most of the snails from this
quarantine tank, and am vacuuming the bottom for the 10th time. I
will do a water change shortly, even though the water parameters all
measure within normal limits still, so I am wondering if you think
the idea of Algae toxins has merit. <Does> At this point, I
welcome any advice you can give from afar. We have never faced
death and disease like this before and are needless to say,
discouraged by the events. Thanks for the help, Brad in
Basalt <Mmm... well... if you believe there in no pathogenic
involvement... I would move these Clowns next time you FW dip
them... into your permanent/display tank... Bob Fenner> | 
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Everyone Poops! Uhh, Clownfish hlth. mostly, env. 4/8/07
Hey guys (and gals) Great informative (addictive) site! <Gracias>
I'm a newbie just starting a new 55 gal fish only tank, CPR192 sump,
Rio1700 return, and am cycling with 2 Percs. <Better by
far not to use fish/es during cycling> Were <We're> at
week 1 of the cycle. Don't have any measurements yet (haven't gotten
my kit yet) <... not smart> but lets <... let's>
assume some ammonia, but with the size of the tank and two little fish
I assume nothing too bad. Temp=80, sg=1.021. <...
your specific gravity... Please read on WWM re> Both my Percs eat a
ton and are highly active, but they rarely leave the surface of the tank
and have never gone deeper than about 1/2 down. I've read that that's
relatively normal so I'm not too concerned, but I've also noticed some
stringy poop lately. A pictures worth a thousand words so here's what
I'm talking about: _http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYnKoFBHvrs_
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYnKoFBHvrs)
Cause for concern or no? If this sounds like some sort of parasite Id
like to deal with it early while they are still eating. <... it's
the environment...> Also, when I add water from evap I'm adding some
"Stress Coat" to de-chlorinate which is causing my skimmer to bubble up
more water than I'm even putting in which is negating the purpose. Any
suggestions here .. <Pre-mix, store... per what is posted on... WWM>
I may go RO in the future, but for now I'm gonna have to use
tap. Should I turn off the skimmer for a time being after adding the
water, can I add say a liter of tap daily without treating, or is there
some other product I should use which wont cause the extra bubbling out
of the water. Thanx again for the great site!!! Bob <Please
use/read it. Bob Fenner> Floaty clownfish
4/4/07 Heyhey, <Whatcha say?> I have a clownfish with a
bizarre problem, it seems to eat too voraciously and then spends the
rest of the night either struggling to swim downwards or pretending to
be dead floating on the surface..... <Mmmm> It has a swollen
abdomen and I have seen white stringy faeces a few times, do I have
anything to be worried about? <Maybe...> FYI It is in a very
healthy 260 litre reef tank. Thanks a bunch will <Is this
the end of your missal? Need to know what you're feeding, possibly
how... water quality tests, history, make-up of this system, the
tankmates... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/clndisfaqs.htm and the linked files
above... Maybe this exposure will help you to understand the kinds of
information we are looking for. Bob Fenner>
Sick Clownfish needs help 3/31/07 Dear WWM Crew,
<Rebecca> I was given a mated pair of false percula clownfish
<Wild collected...> about a month ago, and about a week ago I
placed the female in an isolation tank because she was extremely
lethargic and not eating. She also had a protruding stomach and
long stringy white feces, although her eyes and skin looked normal
(aside from a dulling of her color). The other occupants of the
tank she was in (including a Sail Fin Tang, Bi-colored Blenny,
Damsel Fish, and green star polyp coral) are all doing fine.
Because of her symptoms, I thought she might have some type of
parasite and lowered the salinity of the isolation tank to 1.010
over the course of a few days. After many days of staying in the
bottom corner of the tank with no improvement, yesterday (day 6 of
hyposalinity treatment) she became much more active and swam around
the tank. This morning I was surprised to look in the tank and see
a large brown mass protruding from her stomach, coming out of her
body near her front. When it finally emerged from her, it appeared
to be a clump of undigested food. <Perhaps a bolus of
parasites...> Although still swimming around occasionally, she is
now spending most of her time vertical in a corner of the tank. She
still shows no interest in food, although we have offered her many
different flakes and frozen foods and tried a garlic appetite
enhancer. I am currently bringing the salinity of the isolation
tank back to a normal range. At this point she hasn’t eaten
for over two weeks. I know the situation doesn’t look good, but I
haven’t found any symptoms quite like these online and would be
grateful for any suggestions. I’m puzzled by the buildup of what
looked like undigested food inside her... could her digestive tract
be damaged or blocked? <Yes... likely stress from collection,
handling, shipping...> I’m sure the buildup was the cause of her
protruding stomach. I am including a photo of her and the
protruding mass. Thank you! -Rebecca Patton <I am hopeful
this fish will resume feeding... do try bits of meaty foods...
soaked in Selcon or such... Bob Fenner> | 
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My Tomato Clownfish Belly is Swollen 3/27/07 Hi Crew
<Maria> I need some help figuring out what is going on with my
Tomato Clown, Nico. His/Her belly is swollen. I included some
pictures where you can see a round white thing in its belly. <I see
this...> Can you tell me what is going? Could it be getting ready
to lay eggs? <Mmm, no...> Or is this the result of a parasitic
infection? Please help. Thanks, -- Maria del Mar Alvarez
Rohena <Actually... doesn't have a typical appearance of Ascites...
other fluid-retention, intracellular swelling... the entire coelom not
involved... I suspect there is something that has become lodged in this
fish's alimentary canal... Perhaps an immersion bath in Epsom Salt or
prolonged dilute exposure in the system (see WWM re)... will bring some
relief here. Bob Fenner> | 
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Clown ok? Mmmm, no - 03/25/07 Bob: <Michael> I had
e-mailed you earlier in the week concerned that there was a growth on my
clown's chin. You had indicated that it was probably an injury and, when
ready, to move the fish from quarantine to the display tank. On closer
inspection the chin issue was an injury. I moved the fish to the display
tank today since it was 3 weeks in quarantine and appeared fine in that
tank. After release in to the display I now notice that the fish's
scales appear to have something on them. At least I'm noticing
something. Perhaps it is just the better light in the display tank, but
I want to make sure that the fish doesn't have ich or velvet. <Does
have one or maybe both of these from the appearance> Would you or a
crew member please take a look at the attached photo. Should I be
concerned and pull the fish from the tank and place back in quarantine?
<You need to remove all fishes to a treatment tank... and commence
medication. Stat!> Thank you for your time and the great service you
provide. Michael Astfalk Hummelstown, PA <Do see WWM re both
these protozoan complaints... Pronto. BobF> | 
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Re: Clown ok? Mmmm, no - 03/25/07 Bob: I only have a 10
gallon tank. I have 2 PJ cardinals, 1 firefish and 1 clown goby. Will
they all do OK in this as a holding tank? Michael <... maybe
with the addition of a few pieces of large PVC pipe, fittings... You
NEED to be treating these fishes NOW... or all will be dead in a
surprisingly short while... I do hope/trust you have been reading where
directed. BobF> |
Re: Clown ok? Chelated copper... what it be 03/26/07 Bob:
<Michael> Photo attached as you requested. <Thank you>
I've been surfing through your site, reading other posts. Found the
link to posts with the correct way to treat fish. However, I still
find the site to be a bit confusing. <I as well... is a (well,
for me) monumental task to organize, make this tool more
useful/service-able as it unfolds... If you have input re how this
resource might be next, better structured, please do speak up>
Or is it maybe products & cures that confuse me. <This is
assuredly another area of morass... But not due to you or I's lack
of diligence... There is exceedingly little science to much of the
products sold as "medications" in the ornamental aquatics field...
Nowhere are folks made to prove the efficacy of their products,
conduct trials for effectiveness. Much of what is sold is outright
flim flam> I found and printed your articles Would you please
clarify a few things? <Will gladly try> 1. Velvet and ich
are treated by copper. <Mmm, much more the latter, though, yes,
both are treated by such> I have CopperSafe. The dosage it says
to put in the water raises copper levels to about 2.0 PPM.
<Yes... this is a chelated product... the active ingredient, the
actual cupric ion (Cu++) is liganded/sequestered... temporarily
"tied to" another molecule... enabling it to stay in solution
longer... Akin to the "tiny time capsules" in some analgesics... to
deliver said Copper/Cupric ion over a longer period of time than if
the simple ion were applied... Not knowing you at all I am not able
to proffer much of a relation... How about the "stabilizer",
"conditioner" of swimming pools/spas? Tri-Isocyanuric acid? It
serves operationally the same function as the chelation here...
keeping chlorine in solution over a longer period of time to keep
the water microbe and algal free... Does this make sense?>
However, it looks like the recommendation for saltwater is about
0.15 PPM (which is not in the CopperSafe directions). <This is
also correct, and equivalent... the first is the "total" copper if
you will (as if all the chelation were removed) and the last is the
minimum "free" copper (the cupric ion concentration). Understood?>
Clownfish do not tolerate copper well. <Correct... as a matter
of wanting to be complete... or more so in these statements, all
fishes have a sliding range of toxic response to copper... as
individuals... per their present health, other environmental
factors... Okay?> I only discovered this after dosing the Clown
in the quarantine tank following the CopperSafe directions. That was
yesterday (3/25) before lunch time. Copper levels were measuring at
.25 PPM with my Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit. The clownfish
wasn't eating and I assumed it was the higher copper levels. Did a
partial (about 1-2 gal) water change. Re-measured today. Still
registering around .25, so I did about a 50% change (4-5 gal).
However, the test kit doesn't go below .25 PPM. <... I would
look into having/using another test kit here... One made to test for
chelated copper... and test/maintain the sequestered strength at the
2.0 ppm mark (as well)... Wakarimas?> How much copper should I
be dosing the fish with exactly? <Per the tests... chelated
and/or free... Comprendes?> Is there another product on the
market that is designed specifically for saltwater fish and not so
potent as Coppersafe? <Mmm, please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cryptchelcucures.htm All the
chelated brands are fine... I have used all...> 2. I picked up
on the issue of substrate harboring the protozoans from ich or
velvet. I had a small amount of substrate in the tank to help with
bacteria. Removed this. Now there's bare bottom with a fine film of
dust and broken down food particles. Will this still harbor the
disease? <Mmm, can, yes... the copper/cupric ion is really only
able to kill the free-swimming stage/s... And the copper does aid in
making the fish hosts slough off the attached phase/s... along with
elevated temp.... to speed up the development... but siphoning out
the bottom, even moving affected fishes is warranted> The
clownfish is swimming in circles looking at the bottom of the tank.
Is this normal behavior in a glass bottom tank? He still is not
eating. <Is to be expected...> 3. For the whole 3 weeks that
I had the clown in quarantine, he ate fine and showed no signs of
disease. I was running the quarantine at low salinity, 1.012. I ONLY
noticed the "dust and dots" on him when I pulled him from quarantine
and started acclimating him to the display tank water, which is at
1.022. Is it possible that the film on the fish is from his slime
coat reacting to the salinity change, rather than ich or velvet?
<Not likely, no... The appearance is almost 100% confirmed...
However... the only way to be absolutely sure... Microscopic
examination...> I only see it on him now when I look at him up
close, it is that fine of a texture. If this disease acts ad fast as
I understand it does, shouldn't he be dead by now? <Usually
yes... the Copper may have reduced the virulence, population...>
It is at least 2 days total that the disease was manifesting itself
on him. He was 3 weeks in quarantine. Something doesn't make
sense to me with the time frame. He was the only fish in quarantine,
no others were introduced. <... Perhaps the reservoir host,
situation is in the main system> 4. I also found your
information on doing a fresh water dip. Tried this on the clown
yesterday and he did not tolerate this at all. <Clowns, fishes
that live in close association with invertebrates are frequently
intolerant of the same sorts of exposures> As soon as a I put
him in the water he was moving about and trying to jump out. As soon
as he floated on the bottom of the bucket, I scooped him out & put
him back in the quarantine tank. The spots have not grown on the
clown and may have diminished a bit, but again the lighting in the
quarantine isn't as bright as the display tank. I put different
lights on it and can see better though. My apologies for going
on about this. It has been on my mind constantly since Saturday
night and I've been reading as much as I can. <Good...> Any
other suggestions you may have are appreciated. At this point, I
know I have to treat the fish and run the quarantine tank. The only
way I've gathered to do this is with copper and freshwater dips as
needed. Do I have this correct? <I would treat all fishes
outside the main tank... allow it to run w/o fish hosts for at least
a month... Do please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/amylloodiniumart.htm and consider
seeking out the anti-malarial listed... If this is
Velvet/Amyloodinium, this compound will be your best shot at an
actual cure. Bob Fenner> Thanks. Michael |
Re: Clown ok? 3/28/07 Bob: <Michael> Thanks again
for the reply. <Welcome> I went to college for Mathematics and
have minors in Physics and Computer Science. So, your explanations of
the copper molecules don't totally escape me. <Ah, good... I try to
practice my "simple explanations" on my poor friends, associates... Our
field (ornamental aquatics) is absolutely HUGE...> Chemistry was my
weak point + it is has been 15 years since I graduated. Your analogy
of a stabilizer in a pool brought it home. <Ahh! Great! I actually
met the daughter of the gentleman who "invented" this fabulously useful
product...> Please make sure I understand what you/your website
recommends: Just to clarify, all fish are to be treated per the
copper dosage on the medication. I use a test to kit to make sure I'm
giving the proper dosage. Putting five small fish in a 10 gallon
quarantine tank for 30 days is fine (I just have to keep up with water
changes). However, clownfish don't handle the copper well and need
to have a smaller dosage of the medication. What dosage do you recommend
for the chelated, "CopperSafe" product? <The lower end... as stated
on WWM... no less than 0.15 ppm, no more if poss. than 0.20... but
again... I suspect this is Amyloodinium... not Crypt., Brooklynella,
other protozoan complaint... It would be best treated with the
anti-malarial... Next best by successive formalin dips/baths and being
moved to novel settings each time afterward... NOT copper> I didn't
pick up on that in the links you sent or the e-mail. Unless I can find
something else, CopperSafe is what I will have to use. Also, I had
previously read your "Coral Reef or Velvet Disease" article. I thought I
had printed it but didn't. Thanks for the link and reminder. <Real
good> Forgive me if I'm asking a lot of questions or being
redundant. I just want to make sure that I'm getting it all right. I
work a stressful job for 10-12 hours a day (I'm in sales). I like to
spend time with my family when I come home. Lately, I've been spending
time with the fish. ;) <No worries... hard at times to
prioritize... harder still to find... or one of my faves, "make" time>>
I'll think of some suggestions for the web site flow and e-mail you when
I get a chance on that separately. Michael <BobF>
Fireworm question, source/LS? Clown Dis., Comp. 3/20/07
Hi Crew, <Jennifer> Thanks for all of the help you've given me
thus far! I had a question which I couldn't exactly find an answer to in
your FAQ's, but I apologize if I'm asking something you've already
answered. I recently discovered that I have some kind of
fireworm/bristleworm in my fish only tank. I have no live rock so I'm
not sure how it got into the tank, unless it came from the live sand.
The one(s) that I've seen have been at least an inch and a half long,
bright orangey red and very thin. <Easily possible> I'm not sure
how long they are because I always only catch a glimpse of them just as
they are creeping into an empty shell (which I have around for the
hermit crabs) or disappearing into the sand. I haven't been able to
identify them exactly beyond the fact that they are polychaetes of some
sort. They look a lot like the 4th, 6th and 7th pictures under "errant
polychaetes" on this website
http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/hitchhikerworms.html
(a link I got from your FAQ's). <Mmm, thousands of species... you've
likely read re their possible compatibility...> Now to the question.
Last week one of my ocellaris clownfish had a white spot on the side of
it's face. It didn't look like ich or anything like that, just a bump.
Almost like a white pimple. It was behaving normally and eating and
everything so I thought I'd leave it for a day or two and see what
happens. Two days later it was complete gone and he seems just fine.
Today my other clownfish has a similar white spot in the front of it's
face, near it's right eye. I read that the "fire" in fireworm comes from
the effect the bristles have when dislodged into an unsuspecting victim.
Is it possible that the bumps on the fish are a result from an
interaction with the fireworm? <Yes> (They like to nose around
in the sand to make sure they haven't missed any food after feeding
time.) Do the worms pose a danger to my fish? <Can, definitely...
Some even to humans> I also have two Nassarius vibex snails who
spend most of their days buried in the sand (until feeding time of
course). Do the worms pose a threat to them? <Again, a possibility>
Should I be worried? Would you recommend trapping them and getting rid
of them? <Mmm, no, not necessarily...> If they aren't a threat
then having them as detritivores is always good, right? <Likely so>
Will they get to a size that I need to be worried about? <Can't tell
from here, yet...> Thanks so much in advance! Jen <Best to
keep an eye on them... monitor the Clowns' recovery... consider control
measures... Posted on WWM. Bob Fenner>
Sick Clown 3/20/07
Hi everyone, <Hello> I'm sorry to bother you, but I'm at my
wits' end. <No bother, that’s what we are here for.> I have a 30 gallon
FOWLR tank, 35lbs LR, Ammonia and nitrites are at 0, nitrates are at
around 20ppm. SG is 1.023-1.024, pH is never below 8.3, temp is
around 78 degrees F. <Good> On Thursday I added a false percula
clown without quarantine (I know, my first mistake) He was doing great,
eating, getting along great with everyone including my other clown. On
Saturday night he stopped eating and looked like he lost all of his
color, he was gone by Sunday morning, unfortunately by that point the
other clownfish started acting the same way and I lost him that night.
Right now in the tank I have 1 flame angel, 1 strawberry Pseudochromis,
1 algae blenny and a cleaner wrasse (I know, I know). When I went to the
fish store to ask if they had any suggestions they said he would help).
Unfortunately now the Flame angel and Pseudochromis have both stopped
eating (which is very different for both, both are usually excellent
eaters!) <Never a good sign> and the flame has lost some color around
it's mouth. The algae blenny seems unaffected and the wrasse is eating
and seems to be fine. My water tests and the tests at 2 fish stores
(specializing in salt water) have said my water looks great. I feed
2x/day in the morning they get any variety of frozen food, Mysis (soaked
in Selcon) an omnivore formula, squid, krill, etc. At night I offer a
good quality flake food. I do a 5g water change weekly. I have a
BioWheel filter running and a protein skimmer good for a 60g tank
running 24/7. Everyone was fine until I added that clown (I learned
my lesson, don't worry) but I can't figure out what the
disease/parasite/problem is! If you could shed any light I would greatly
appreciate it. Thank you, Barbara <Do you know if this was a
wild caught clown? Assuming it was Brooklynellosis, aka Clownfish
disease, would be my first guess. This disease is quite treatable but
action needs to be taken quickly. Freshwater dips and formalin are the
preferred treatments here, and of course QTing the fish. Please see
here for more
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brooklynellosisart.htm and here for
more on FW dips
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm .> <Chris>
Sick Clown Part II 3/20/07 Thank you very much for your
time. <Sure> The Clownfish was said to be tank bred. <Uncommon in tank
bred clowns, but not unheard of.> If it is Brooklynellosis I know I
need to treat the Angel, what about the wrasse and the algae blenny? <I
would dip them too, properly done there is no down side.> Also, what
should I do for the main tank? Will it clear up once the fish are
treated or do I need to let it lay fallow, etc before it is back to
normal? <Fallow would be best, besides it will be much easier to see
and catch the fish should they need to be treated again in a QT tank.>
Thanks again! Barbara <Chris>
Clownfish Growth? – 03/18/07 Bob & crew: <Michael> I
came to your website via Bob's book and trust your methods and
judgment. The book has been helpful to me so far, I'm hoping you
can provide some assistance with a fish I have in low salinity
(1.012) quarantine. <Mmm... am not such a fan> I purchased a
Clownfish from a local dealer about two weeks ago. I had watched him
over the course of a few weeks and believed him to be a healthy
specimen. However, he may have came from a reef since he wasn't
marked as tank raised. The dealer's employee wasn't sure if he was
or not, so I'm assuming he is wild caught. <Am not so sure...>
The first issue I saw with him was funny looking growth behind on of
his gills after he was in quarantine for a few days. I asked the
dealer about it and he said it could be a parasite. Since he was in
low salinity, I didn't want to medicate him for a parasite right
away. I did, however, add a few doses of Melafix <Am definitely
not a fan> to the water over a few days to help with any
bacteria. After a week, the growth was gone. I did a 50% water
change. Now, I've noticed a couple of funny white growths on his
lower jaw. Almost looks like he has a bit of a beard going. Photos
attached. <I see these> I read your Clownfish page and I
don't have any Maracyn II. Any suggestions on what this is?
<Looks like some skin growth from a mechanical injury> Any
treatments? <No> The Melafix does not seem to be harmful,
<Or helpful... can/does interfere with nitrification...> so I
could dose him with that again. He is eating well and swimming all
around the tank. I'd just like to make sure he doesn't have
something he could spread to display tank when I put him in.
Please let me know what you think. Thanks. Michael Astfalk
Hummelstown, PA <I would place this fish in the main display and
not worry. Bob Fenner> | Re:
Clownfish Growth? 3/18/07 Bob: <Michael>
Thanks for the reply. <Welcome> One last question -
Did you mean that you are not a fan of low salinity quarantine
or that you're not a fan of your book? :) Michael
<Heeeee! Just not hyposalinity during quarantine. BobF> | 
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