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FAQs about the Diseases of Clownfishes
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Related FAQs: Clownfish Disease 1, Diseases of Clownfishes 2, Diseases of Clownfishes 3, Clownfish Disease 4, Clownfish Disease 5, Clownfish Disease 6, Clownfish Disease 7, Clownfish Disease 8, Clownfish Disease 9, Clownfish Disease 10, Clownfish Disease 11, Clownfish Disease 12, Clownfish Disease 13, Clownfish Disease 14, Clownfish Disease 15, Clownfish Disease 17, Clownfish Disease 18, Clownfish Disease 19, Clownfish Disease 20,
Clownfish Disease 21, Clownfish Disease 22,
Clownfish Disease 24,
Clownfish Disease 25,
Clownfish Disease 26,
Clownfish Disease 27,
& FAQs on
Clownfish Disease By: Environmental
Stress, Nutrition, Social/Behavioral/Territoriality, Trauma/Mechanical Injury, & Pathogens:
Lymphocystis, Infectious Disease (Bacteria, Fungi...),
Protozoans: Cryptocaryon/Ich,
Amyloodinium/Velvet, Brooklynella (see article below), &
Mysteries/Anomalous Losses, Cure, Success Stories, & Clownfishes in General, Clownfish Identification, Clownfish Selection, Clownfish Compatibility, Clownfish Behavior, Clownfish Systems, Clownfish Feeding, Clownfishes and
Anemones, Breeding Clowns,
Related Articles: Clownfish Disease, Clownfishes, Maroon
Clowns, Marine Disease,
Brooklynellosis,
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Is it just an
owee from rubbing?
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Saddleback Clown Injury 5/4/07 I recently started
stocking my newly plumbed 125 gal. tank. One of the first to
go in was my saddleback clown. For the first three weeks she
seemed happy as a clam, although I did notice some slight cloudiness to
her eyes which I attributed to the lighting in the holding tank I had
her in previous. That seemed to clear up rather quickly
though and three weeks later I deemed it time for her apparent friend
(a blue regal tang) to come out of ich rehab. Now it's
been two days since the Tang's re-introduction, and now the
saddleback has a nice gash in her head (flap of skin and all), <they
are called surgeonfish for a reason> a vertical white streak below
one of her pectoral fins and a small patch of grey-white on the front
tip of her dorsal fin. The marks don't particularly look
like ich to me, and I've not seen any scratching against the rocks,
but she does dive into the same area of sand somewhat often and has
created a nice crater which she seems to enjoy spending most of her
time. <Digging is normal for clowns.> I also recently added three
emerald crabs, which she tried carrying off the second each one started
floating down. Before I write a novel; my question is this:
Do these symptoms resemble a disease or infection, or is it more likely
that she's just got some scrapes from "horsing around"?
<Not horsing around, getting beat up by the tang and it
"scalpel".> Any insight would be tremendous. Thank you,
Jules <Need to watch this very closely. If the tang's
aggression continues the fish will need to be separated. The
tang can do serious injury with their tail spines.>
<Chris>
Clownfish Stressed... 4/26/07 Here's
what's going on... <Uh-oh, you sound like one of my Training
Officers....am I in trouble?> We have two false Percs one seems fine
while the other appears to be hiding. <How long have you had them?
Mated pair?> It also looks to have a cut above it's lip with a
white spot on it, he/she also has what looks like twine hanging off the
under side. <Sounds like an abrasion that may be inflamed...I would
not worry just yet, maintain pristine water quality and feed a varied
diet.> The eyes look a little larger than normal and the
lips look to be a lighter shade of orange. <Sounds like am
environmental/ water quality issue.> The fish does seem
to be eating a little but not like it use to. I had the
water tested and everything was in great shape.
<That is good but in the future we prefer specifics...we may see
something you do not.> What led up to this is we moved the tank and
of course drained off the water about 30% and added new water to the
tank from a reliable LFS that we always get our water
from. I'm not sure if I poured the water in too fast and
stirred things up or what but I just want my clown back.
<With such a large/recent move I doubt that the nutrient levels are
optimal...and I'm sure the ordeal has the little bugger stressed.
Can you move him/her to a quarantine in the meantime while he/she
recovers?> One other thought is a couple of days before I found this
same fish had jumped from the main part of the tank into the filtration
part of the back of the tank. We got him out and everything seemed
normal though.... Thanks for your help on this.... <Of course, Adam
J.> Clownfish Color Loss question - 4/26/07 Hello there!
<Hi there!> I emailed you a few days ago about the odd behaviour
occurring between my two clownfish. I found out that they were fighting
because of the fact that they are now deciding which one is female and
male. However, I have a new issue that has recently occurred. It seems
that the male who is hiding from the female has begun to somewhat lose
his color. The female is a vibrant orange color while the male is
becoming less vibrant, and a little paler. He is still orange and white
however he is not nearly as vibrant as my female clownfish. I was
wondering if this is a problem or if this totally normal! <Sounds
like he may be a bit stressed (and who can blame him!). Other than
being a little paler, is he eating okay, swimming and breathing
normally? If everything's fine there, I'd just keep an eye on
him, offer nutritious foods and keep his water in tip top shape. Let us
know if there are any changes.> Thx for all your help guys!
You've helped me with a lot of situations!! Much love!
<You're very welcome! Take care --Lynn>
Re: Clownfish color loss question - 4/27/07 Thank
you for replying so quickly! Unfortunately, I lost him tonight.
<I'm so sorry.> When I came back home from work, the female
was attempting to eat him, as he had already died:(. I was wondering if
you could tell me what was wrong with him? He was eating perfectly fine
before, he was active whenever the female wasn't chasing him.
However, since the female started chasing him, he began to hide
constantly, only coming out to feed. He started to lose color, but he
never accumulated any white spots, or bumps. <Good> He was
breathing fine, although I found that he would breathe a little faster
after the female would have stopped chasing him. <Normal> So I
was wondering if you could give me a little insight on what happened to
him? <Could have been a number of things, but my guess is that it
was stress related.> Also I would like some advice on what to do
next. <I'd keep an eye on the other fish, continue good
husbandry.> I have a female clownfish now, so should I go buy
another clownfish for a mate? <You can if you like. Just make
sure it's the same species, smaller than the one you have, and
quarantine it for the requisite 4 weeks. I'd make sure he's
well fed and in good shape before adding him to the tank.> Please
help me! Thx for all your help!! <You're very welcome and again,
I'm sorry to hear about your fish. -Lynn>
Blind Clownfish? - 4/26/07 Hello, <Hi
Kathy> A have a 10-gallon tank with 2 clownfish.
About 2 weeks ago, my father cleaned the tank completely (walls, rocks,
plants, etc.) and bought about 10 snails and crabs <Hermit
crabs?> (they all add 10). A few days after the tank was cleaned and
the snails and crabs were added, <Too many inhabitants in such a
small tank. Ideally, the snails and crabs should have been QT'd as
well -- lots of information at WWM on this.> one of my clownfish
started acting very weird. He would swim on his side, he spent a lot of
time at the bottom of the tank and he seemed to be blind because he
does not chase the food any more when I feed him. Now he spends a lot
of time in the surface of the tank, and still doesn't chase the
food, it seems like he has gone blind, sometimes he swims from the top
to the bottom of the tank and he crashes when he touches the bottom.
The only way he can eat is when I feed him and he bumps into the food.
I give them frozen shrimp. <Need a varied diet. Please see the
information at this link: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nemoproart.htm > What can
I do? What could have caused my fish to get blind? <Could be related
to water quality, nutrition, infection, any number of things. Do the
eyes appear clear, or cloudy, etc? Please read FAQ's
available at WWM through Google's search engine. Just type in
'blind clownfish': http://www.wetwebmedia.com/Googlesearch.htm > Could this
blindness be a temporary problem? <Could be.> My other fish is
good and healthy. Any advice on how to help my blind fish would be
greatly appreciated. <What are your water parameters (ammonia,
nitrites, nitrates, pH, specific gravity, etc)? The first thing I would
do is check those numbers. Ammonia and nitrites should be zero and
nitrates shouldn't be over 40ppm. If anything is amiss, then a
water change, possibly several, is called for. Unfortunately, a ten
gallon tank is really too small for all of these inhabitants. Consider
that the rule of thumb is one cubic inch of fish/life to every five
gallons of water and you'll start to see what I mean. You also have
to factor in the existing rock and substrate. You may only have 8 or so
actual gallons of water in there. Small, "nano" tanks can be
wonderful, but they can be a big challenge to keep stable. Please read
the information at these links: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnsysfaqs.htm. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/smmarsys.htm > Thanks Kathy
<You're most welcome and I hope your little fishie gets better!
-Lynn> Clownfish with Pimples 4/26/07 Hello.
<Brian.> I am having a problem with my pair of Percula Clowns.
<I'm here to help.> My tank is a 92g reef with about 115 lbs.
of LR. I am currently running a octopus skimmer and carbon
occasionally. Basically my clowns have a few large white lumps on their
bodies. I have had ich in the past and this does not look like any ich
I have ever seen. <Sounds like possibly a bacterial infection,
perhaps stemming from a physical wound, common with clowns. See WWM re:
clown disease.> The white lumps are rather large, about a centimeter
or so in size, and there is only 1 or two of them on each clown. They
have had this problem for about 1-2 months now. The lumps seem to be
well rooted in their skin, and somewhat resemble a large pimple.
Whenever the lumps pop (I am not sure they pop, but eventually they
will no longer be there) they leave behind a nice torn section of skin.
It looks like the fish had a small explosion on their bodies. No other
fish are affected by this problem, even my desjardinii is free of
spots. I have never even seen a trace of a spot on another fish. The
clowns are happy as usual, feeding just as voraciously as usual, and
show no signs of fatigue or discoloration. Do you have any idea what
could be affecting my clowns? <What are you water parameters? Can
you provide a pic by chance? This usually stems from environmental
issues, perform a water change, feed a varied diet...and please resend
with test results. Read here as well: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clndisfaqs.htm . (There are many
more linked at the top).> I greatly appreciate any help you can
provide me. Thanks. <Good luck.> Brian <Adam J.> Re:
True Percula Clownfish - Info doesn't go much past this!
4/25/07 That is as many fish as I am going to put in
it. LOL The clownfish is now lying on his side. <I'm hoping that
this 'lol' is subtle irony and that you actually don't find
this situation amusing -- if you do then maybe this hobby isn't for
you, I hear taxidermy is on the revival -- 'lol'> He was
swimming around like normal now he is on the bottom of the tank lying
down. Is that normal? <I would test all levels again, especially
ammonia. Hopefully he is just recovering from the earlier stress but it
would definitely be worth placing him back in your quarantine tank
alone for prospective treatment. Olly>
| Clownfish Concerns 4/24/07 Good
evening, <Elizabeth> I'll just get right to it... What is
clownfish poop supposed to look like? <Depends... to a
large degree, on what they've been fed> I have 2 clownfish
and while they both behave normally- swimming and wiggling
around, eating well- I have noticed that one of them has had
whitish stringy poop and is holding his fins close to his body
while swimming. I have read that this could be symptomatic of
an internal parasite. <The operative word here is
"could"> This is my first saltwater aquarium so I
am not really sure what to make of this. I thought all fish
(except the really big ones) had stringy poop. I
am attaching a picture of both of the fish. The top fish is
the one I am concerned about. If this is a problem should I
remove only the infected fish or is it likely that by now both
fish have the parasite and should be quarantined/treated?
Thank you very much, Eli <Mmm... how long have you had these
fish? Are they wild-caught or captive produced? What re their
system, feeding, water testing... You have read on WWM re Clownfish
Systems, Disease? Bob Fenner> |
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Sick/Dying Clownfish... Cerianthus!?
4/23/07 Hey guys, I tried to post a question in the
forum but for the past 2 months I have not been able to register as a
new member (says it's temporarily down) <I have repeatedly sent
a note to the "sysop" (Lorenzo) re these notes... will do
again here. We/WWM does NOT "run" WWF...> I've
searched and searched your archives but am still unsure as to what I
should do. I have a 40G SW tank with 30Lbs LR. 3
corals, 1 mushroom and 2 tube anemones. <These last, Cerianthids...
are problematical with other species... fishes and invertebrates of
many kinds... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/tubeanem.htm and the linked FAQs file
above> My water quality is Nitrites 0, Nitrates .15,
Ammonia .1. (Have been struggling to get my #'s to 0 ) I
do weekly 15% water changes with deionized water. I am
currently waiting on my 200G setup. I have 1 Tang, <Not
enough room for one here> 1 Fire fish, 1 yellow Goby and 1
clownfish. Truth be told, this is my fourth
clownfish. I've bought them all from the same place over
the course of a few months. All have died, and I'm
waiting on the outcome of this last one. <... small doubt THE reason
could/likely is the Cerianthus> The first pair I bought, one died
the day after I brought him home. Next one I added had
Brooklynella, I tried FW dip and Formalin dip, but he died in the QT
tank. Last but not least was my love, Nemo, he was the
original and lasted 5 months until a sick anemone fell on
him. Now is the last of my clownies. He has been
gallantly hanging on for the past 4 days. White spot on his
side, no stringing feces like the last one, mouth gaping wide open with
labored breathing. Stays in one spot, under a
coral. Darts out when fed but will not eat. Since
I had trouble with my anemone I did a 50% water change (2 weeks ago)
and put the anemone into a QT tank. EVERYTHING else is doing
fabulous. My question to you is should I attempt the FW
dip? Or help him out of his misery? (bag in freezer) Or just
leave him to his agony? <Do you have another tank/system to use for
treatment?> Whatever happens, this will have to be my
last clowny until I get my new setup. Clowns are my absolute
favorite fish and this is just making me heartsick. Any
advice (or berating) would be ever so appreciated. Thank you
in advance, and thank you for having a site where people can go to for
help in this mysterious fishy world. Karley <Mmm... no need (or
desire) for mystery here. Do read re the Anemones... they are likely
the source of the nitrogenous anomaly as well. Bob
Fenner>
Re: Sick/Dying Clownfish 4/23/07
Just an update, I couldn't take it anymore so I gave him a FW dip.
(same temp, same PH, with a air fizzy stone) He only lasted
in there 3 minutes, due to the thrashing about I took him
out. The white "thingy" came off of his body and
now it looks like a red gouge in his side. His mouth is
still open, breathing still laboured. I have formalin but
since the last one died after that dip I hesitate to use it unless you
think it is what he needs. Thank you! Karley <... no way
to tell from here... and you didn't attach/include prev. corr., so
I don't know/recall your circumstances... Bob Fenner> Missing
Clownfish. - 04/17/07 Hello again, <Hi Sarah, Mich with you
again.> My 55 gallon saltwater tank currently houses live rock, a
handful of snails, 2 true perc. clown fish and a mandarin
goby. Last night around 8 pm my tank was perfectly fine, 3
hours later one of my clowns was missing! <Uh-oh!> I looked
around the outside of the tank and I didn't find anything, so I
looked around my tank some more but didn't see anything. I woke up
this morning and continued to look once the lights came on and again,
I'm down to 1 clown and one mandarin and that's all I see.
Everything else seems to be normal (water included). The equipment is
working properly. I do have covers on my tank, but there is a 2 inch
gap along the back because of the equipment, but still, no fish on
the ground. <Fish can flip themselves a surprisingly far distance
away from the tank.> Now, I know you can't tell me what happened
to my fish, but what are some things that could have
happened? I don't see it outside my tank at all and I
don't see a clown carcass inside my tank at all, so I am really
dumbfounded. I don't know if this matters or not, but
the clown that is missing was the larger of the two (presumably the
female) so could she have hidden to lay eggs or could the mandarin goby
have eaten it (doesn't seem likely at all since it really just eats
the "bugs" in my tank). Any help or speculation
would be greatly appreciated. <All are possibilities, though it
would be highly unlikely that the Mandarin would eat the
carcass.> Also, I know clowns like to be in pairs,
should I get one more clown to make a pair again, or would the size
difference become a problem or the fact that they weren't purchased
together? <You could get another, though I would get one that is
significantly smaller than you remaining fish. You may want
to consider picking up a copy of Joyce Wilkerson's book titled
"Clownfish". -Mich>
Re: Missing Clownfish. 4/19/07 <Hi
Sarah, Mich with you again.> Now, a really stupid question, how far
could the clown have jumped out of my tank, if that's what
happened? <Mmm, would not likely jump very far.> Are
we talking inches, feet or yards? <However, after it launched
itself, it could have flipped around on the floor and traveled quite a
large distance...possibly several of yards, even more if there are any
4 legged critters in your home.> Now if it were hiding to lay eggs
or something, which I don't even know if that's
what they do, the fish would reappear after 2 days,
wouldn't it? <One would think... but stranger things have
happened.> My gut is telling me it jumped, unfortunately, but I
really can't find it! <Carpet surfing hide and
seek? I do hope the clown emerges alive and well in you
tank, but the more time that passes the less likely this is to
occur. Do you have a sump? Did you check
there? If it were me, I would be checking in a large arc
around the tank.> Thanks for the tip on the book, I'll have to
take a trip to the bookstore this week.
<Excellent! -Mich>
Clown Sick, Water Quality Issues...
4/11/07 Hello crew! <Hi Stacey.> Our false percula clownfish
has been acting strange for at least two weeks now.
<Uh-oh, let's see if I can help.> We've had her over a
year now. For a few days, she lays on the sand behind the
rocks, and breaths rapidly, and then for a day, she'll start
swimming at the surface. <Have you tested the water? What are the
results?> She hasn't eaten in over 2 weeks, and one day we think
she's taking her last breath, and the next day she's swimming
again. She does have a single white spot on her rear left
side, but we think it's from abrasion. She looks very
thin, but again, I think this is because she hasn't been
eating. We recently started 10% water changes every day, but
that's more for our red slime algae. Do you have any ideas of what
she might have, or how we can help? <Well you mentioned red-slime
algae, Cyanobacteria. This means you have some water quality/nutrient
issues. I would suspect some high nitrate levels at the
least, and perhaps oxygen levels that are too low. I'd
like to see water test results before I advise you any further but a
some extra water changes wouldn't hurt. If you have a
quarantine tank it might not be a bad idea to move the clown
there.> Thanks for your time! <No problem.>
Stacey
<Adam J.>
Help with possible disease 4/8/07 Dear
Crew: <Fites> We ordered and received some snails, Gracilaria
and a pair of Ocellaris from Aquacon yesterday. All of
our livestock has been acclimated and placed in a hospital tank.
<...? Not a "termed" Quarantine?> The
tank has new water that was mixed a week ago and aerated. <I
would use water from an established "clean" system
here> The water used is RO, and the salt is Instant Ocean, mixed
to 1.0245 S.G. using a calibrated hydrometer. The snails
all appear healthy. The tips (the last two inches) of the
Gracilaria have turned white. <Typical... from being in the
dark, new water conditions...> The biggest worry is the large
female clown. When first placed in the tank (yesterday
morning), she had a white "pimple" on the bottom of the
chin. Today, she has a while film (mucus) sloughing off of her back
(photo attached). Is this normal from being caught and
shipped, or is she sick? <Mmm, much more likely the latter...
the chin from rubbing, the slime from the new water...> If she
is sick, can you please tell me the best course of action? <Move
some water from the established tank/s you have about...> Her
small male has eaten bits of food offered (Hikari - marine
S). The female has not eaten, but appears to be swimming
normally. We have never had a sick animal in this
hospital tank, and cleaned it thoroughly with fresh water and a
scrubber before filling it with salt water. I did not
search for advice on this one, because the change has happened
quickly, and I don't want a misdiagnosis to cost this lovely
creature her life. Thank you for understanding. Thank
you as always for all you do, Brad in Basalt
<No need/cause for panic here... Bob Fenner> |
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| Re: Help with possible disease 4/8/07
Thanks for the encouragement Bob. My words weren't
meant to convey panic, but rather love and respect for my little
fish. We have waited for two years to buy a pair of
clowns. So, it is somewhat like having a new baby. As
soon as the baby sneezes, young parents are one the phone to the
good doctor. I will do as you say and put 20% seasoned
water from our main tank into the quarantine
tank. I'm uncertain about your question "not a
"termed" Quarantine?" though. <Sorry
re the confusion Brad... What I meant/mean is you term the
intermediate system here a purposeful "treatment" tank,
rather than a quarantine... I think in actual fact/practice what
you have is the latter... You don't intend to administer
medicine/s...> The manager of the distributor who supplied our
clowns was very helpful. He told me that "anyone
who is going to care for clownfish must learn how to do a
freshwater dip". So, I floated a rectangular vessel
of RO water in the quarantine tank <Mmm, must need interject
that this water needs to be aerated (RO has no gas to speak of)...
and pH-adjusted... to at least 7.8... or close to the
ambient/shipping water...> until the temperature had
equilibrated. Thereafter, the female clown was given a
ten-minute dip per his instructions. I know that you
have been in the industry for decades and are educated on such
matters, so I will search to see if you have written any articles
on the wisdom of such a practice. <Oh, yes... I have> This
fellow said I should perform these dips daily until any signs of
mucus are gone. <Mmm...> I hope this is not along
the same lines as leaches and blood-letting! <Perhaps> I hope
all is going well for the WetWebMedia crew. Thank you
sincerely for all you do for all of us who are wet behind the ears.
Brad in Basalt <Wish I was right now! Am out for a
swim in a bit... visiting with friends in HI. Bob Fenner> |
| Re: Clowns dying, & Haliotid
sel., 4/15/07 Good Morning Crew:
<Fites> One week ago I received a shipment of snails, a small
green abalone, some red Gracilaria macro algae and a pair of
clowns. The Gracilaria was placed in a quarantine tank
with good seasoned (1 week) water with water parameters in order
(pH 8.1, Alk 160ppm, Ca 350ppm, Temperature 77.4 degrees F,
Nitrites, Nitrates and Ammonia all zero). The animals were drip
acclimated and then placed in the same tank with the algae (photo
attached). <I see them/these> The next day, the
abalone had not moved and was pronounced dead and decomposing.
<Very typical... haliotids are not easily kept in captivity...
and many/most of the species sold are unsuitable (not-tropical)>
No Ammonia was measured, but Nitrite was measured at
.1ppm. A water change was immediately done, and the
bottom of the glass tank was vacuumed of any detritus from the
abalone. The fish have had white mucus on their bodies
since the first day and have progressed downhill in health since
then (based on slowing of movement and not eating). <Mmm, and
maybe more than just mucus> I have performed several freshwater
dips (temperature adjusted, and pH adjusted RO water) per Aquacon
because they hold the 30 day guarantee on these little guys.
<Wow, a very long warranty> The dips remove the white mucus,
but now there is pink mucus emerging from the top of the large
clown's gill plate. Two colors of Gracilaria were
shipped to me, one red and the other dark brown. The
dark brown has been slowly disintegrating. From reading on the WWM,
I suspect that the decomposition of the macroalgae may be giving
off some sort of toxin. <Could be...> I
have just removed the algae and most of the snails from this
quarantine tank, and am vacuuming the bottom for the 10th
time. I will do a water change shortly, even though the
water parameters all measure within normal limits still, so I am
wondering if you think the idea of Algae toxins has merit.
<Does> At this point, I welcome any advice you can give from
afar. We have never faced death and disease like this
before and are needless to say, discouraged by the events. Thanks
for the help, Brad in Basalt <Mmm... well... if you believe
there in no pathogenic involvement... I would move these Clowns
next time you FW dip them... into your permanent/display tank...
Bob Fenner> |
|

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Everyone Poops! Uhh, Clownfish hlth. mostly,
env. 4/8/07 Hey guys (and gals) Great informative
(addictive) site! <Gracias> I'm a newbie just starting a new
55 gal fish only tank, CPR192 sump, Rio1700 return, and am
cycling with 2 Percs. <Better by far not to use fish/es during
cycling> Were <We're> at week 1 of
the cycle. Don't have any measurements yet
(haven't gotten my kit yet) <... not smart> but lets <...
let's> assume some ammonia, but with the size of the
tank and two little fish I assume nothing too
bad. Temp=80, sg=1.021. <... your specific gravity...
Please read on WWM re> Both my Percs eat a ton and are highly
active, but they rarely leave the surface of the tank and have
never gone deeper than about 1/2
down. I've read that that's relatively
normal so I'm not too concerned, but I've
also noticed some stringy poop lately. A pictures
worth a thousand words so here's what I'm talking
about: _ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYnKoFBHvrs_ ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYnKoFBHvrs) Cause
for concern or no? If this sounds like some sort of
parasite Id like to deal with it early while they are still
eating. <... it's the environment...> Also, when I add water
from evap I'm adding some "Stress Coat"
to de-chlorinate which is causing my skimmer to bubble up more
water than I'm even putting in which is negating the
purpose. Any suggestions here .. <Pre-mix, store... per
what is posted on... WWM> I may go RO in the future, but
for now I'm gonna have to use tap. Should I turn
off the skimmer for a time being after adding the water, can
I add say a liter of tap daily without treating, or is there
some other product I should use which wont cause the extra
bubbling out of the water. Thanx again for the great site!!! Bob
<Please use/read it. Bob Fenner>
Floaty clownfish 4/4/07 Heyhey,
<Whatcha say?> I have a clownfish with a bizarre problem, it
seems to eat too voraciously and then spends the rest of the night
either struggling to swim downwards or pretending to be dead floating
on the surface..... <Mmmm> It has a swollen abdomen and I have
seen white stringy faeces a few times, do I have anything to be worried
about? <Maybe...> FYI It is in a very healthy 260 litre reef
tank. Thanks a bunch will <Is this the end of your missal? Need to
know what you're feeding, possibly how... water quality tests,
history, make-up of this system, the tankmates... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/clndisfaqs.htm and
the linked files above... Maybe this exposure will help you to
understand the kinds of information we are looking for. Bob
Fenner>
| Sick Clownfish needs help 3/31/07
Dear WWM Crew, <Rebecca> I was given a mated pair of false
percula clownfish <Wild collected...> about a month ago, and
about a week ago I placed the female in an isolation tank because
she was extremely lethargic and not eating. She also had
a protruding stomach and long stringy white feces, although her
eyes and skin looked normal (aside from a dulling of her
color). The other occupants of the tank she was in
(including a Sail Fin Tang, Bi-colored Blenny, Damsel Fish, and
green star polyp coral) are all doing fine. Because of
her symptoms, I thought she might have some type of parasite and
lowered the salinity of the isolation tank to 1.010 over the course
of a few days. After many days of staying in the bottom corner of
the tank with no improvement, yesterday (day 6 of hyposalinity
treatment) she became much more active and swam around the
tank. This morning I was surprised to look in the tank
and see a large brown mass protruding from her stomach, coming out
of her body near her front. When it finally emerged from her, it
appeared to be a clump of undigested food. <Perhaps
a bolus of parasites...> Although still swimming around
occasionally, she is now spending most of her time vertical in a
corner of the tank. She still shows no interest in food,
although we have offered her many different flakes and frozen foods
and tried a garlic appetite enhancer. I am currently
bringing the salinity of the isolation tank back to a normal
range. At this point she hasn't eaten for over two
weeks. I know the situation doesn't look good, but I
haven't found any symptoms quite like these online and would be
grateful for any suggestions. I'm puzzled by the
buildup of what looked like undigested food inside her... could her
digestive tract be damaged or blocked? <Yes... likely stress
from collection, handling, shipping...> I'm sure the buildup
was the cause of her protruding stomach. I am including
a photo of her and the protruding mass. Thank you!
-Rebecca Patton <I am hopeful this fish will resume feeding...
do try bits of meaty foods... soaked in Selcon or such... Bob
Fenner> |
|

|
| My Tomato Clownfish Belly is Swollen
3/27/07 Hi Crew <Maria> I need some help figuring out
what is going on with my Tomato Clown, Nico. His/Her belly is
swollen. I included some pictures where you can see a
round white thing in its belly. <I see this...>
Can you tell me what is going? Could it be getting
ready to lay eggs? <Mmm, no...> Or is this the result of a
parasitic infection? Please help. Thanks, -- Maria del Mar Alvarez
Rohena <Actually... doesn't have a typical appearance of
Ascites... other fluid-retention, intracellular swelling... the
entire coelom not involved... I suspect there is something that has
become lodged in this fish's alimentary canal... Perhaps an
immersion bath in Epsom Salt or prolonged dilute exposure in the
system (see WWM re)... will bring some relief here. Bob
Fenner> |
|

|
| Clown ok? Mmmm, no - 03/25/07 Bob:
<Michael> I had e-mailed you earlier in the week concerned
that there was a growth on my clown's chin. You had indicated
that it was probably an injury and, when ready, to move the fish
from quarantine to the display tank. On closer inspection the chin
issue was an injury. I moved the fish to the display tank today
since it was 3 weeks in quarantine and appeared fine in that tank.
After release in to the display I now notice that the fish's
scales appear to have something on them. At least I'm noticing
something. Perhaps it is just the better light in the display tank,
but I want to make sure that the fish doesn't have ich or
velvet. <Does have one or maybe both of these from the
appearance> Would you or a crew member please take a look at the
attached photo. Should I be concerned and pull the fish from the
tank and place back in quarantine? <You need to remove all
fishes to a treatment tank... and commence medication. Stat!>
Thank you for your time and the great service you provide. Michael
Astfalk Hummelstown, PA <Do see WWM re both these protozoan
complaints... Pronto. BobF> |
|

|
| Re: Clown ok? Mmmm, no - 03/25/07 Bob: I only
have a 10 gallon tank. I have 2 PJ cardinals, 1 firefish and 1
clown goby. Will they all do OK in this as a holding tank? Michael
<... maybe with the addition of a few pieces of large PVC pipe,
fittings... You NEED to be treating these fishes NOW... or all will
be dead in a surprisingly short while... I do hope/trust you have
been reading where directed. BobF> |
| Re: Clown ok? Chelated copper... what it be
03/26/07 Bob: <Michael> Photo attached as you requested.
<Thank you> I've been surfing through your site, reading
other posts. Found the link to posts with the correct way to treat
fish. However, I still find the site to be a bit confusing. <I
as well... is a (well, for me) monumental task to organize, make
this tool more useful/service-able as it unfolds... If you have
input re how this resource might be next, better structured, please
do speak up> Or is it maybe products & cures that confuse
me. <This is assuredly another area of morass... But not due to
you or I's lack of diligence... There is exceedingly little
science to much of the products sold as "medications" in
the ornamental aquatics field... Nowhere are folks made to prove
the efficacy of their products, conduct trials for effectiveness.
Much of what is sold is outright flim flam> I found and printed
your articles Would you please clarify a few things? <Will
gladly try> 1. Velvet and ich are treated by copper. <Mmm,
much more the latter, though, yes, both are treated by such> I
have CopperSafe. The dosage it says to put in the water raises
copper levels to about 2.0 PPM. <Yes... this is a chelated
product... the active ingredient, the actual cupric ion (Cu++) is
liganded/sequestered... temporarily "tied to" another
molecule... enabling it to stay in solution longer... Akin to the
"tiny time capsules" in some analgesics... to deliver
said Copper/Cupric ion over a longer period of time than if the
simple ion were applied... Not knowing you at all I am not able to
proffer much of a relation... How about the "stabilizer",
"conditioner" of swimming pools/spas? Tri-Isocyanuric
acid? It serves operationally the same function as the chelation
here... keeping chlorine in solution over a longer period of time
to keep the water microbe and algal free... Does this make
sense?> However, it looks like the recommendation for saltwater
is about 0.15 PPM (which is not in the CopperSafe directions).
<This is also correct, and equivalent... the first is the
"total" copper if you will (as if all the chelation were
removed) and the last is the minimum "free" copper (the
cupric ion concentration). Understood?> Clownfish do not
tolerate copper well. <Correct... as a matter of wanting to be
complete... or more so in these statements, all fishes have a
sliding range of toxic response to copper... as individuals... per
their present health, other environmental factors... Okay?> I
only discovered this after dosing the Clown in the quarantine tank
following the CopperSafe directions. That was yesterday (3/25)
before lunch time. Copper levels were measuring at .25 PPM with my
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit. The clownfish wasn't eating
and I assumed it was the higher copper levels. Did a partial (about
1-2 gal) water change. Re-measured today. Still registering around
.25, so I did about a 50% change (4-5 gal). However, the test kit
doesn't go below .25 PPM. <... I would look into
having/using another test kit here... One made to test for chelated
copper... and test/maintain the sequestered strength at the 2.0 ppm
mark (as well)... Wakarimas?> How much copper should I be dosing
the fish with exactly? <Per the tests... chelated and/or free...
Comprendes?> Is there another product on the market that is
designed specifically for saltwater fish and not so potent as
Coppersafe? <Mmm, please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cryptchelcucures.htm All the
chelated brands are fine... I have used all...> 2. I picked up
on the issue of substrate harboring the protozoans from ich or
velvet. I had a small amount of substrate in the tank to help with
bacteria. Removed this. Now there's bare bottom with a fine
film of dust and broken down food particles. Will this still harbor
the disease? <Mmm, can, yes... the copper/cupric ion is really
only able to kill the free-swimming stage/s... And the copper does
aid in making the fish hosts slough off the attached phase/s...
along with elevated temp.... to speed up the development... but
siphoning out the bottom, even moving affected fishes is
warranted> The clownfish is swimming in circles looking at the
bottom of the tank. Is this normal behavior in a glass bottom tank?
He still is not eating. <Is to be expected...> 3. For the
whole 3 weeks that I had the clown in quarantine, he ate fine and
showed no signs of disease. I was running the quarantine at low
salinity, 1.012. I ONLY noticed the "dust and dots" on
him when I pulled him from quarantine and started acclimating him
to the display tank water, which is at 1.022. Is it possible that
the film on the fish is from his slime coat reacting to the
salinity change, rather than ich or velvet? <Not likely, no...
The appearance is almost 100% confirmed... However... the only way
to be absolutely sure... Microscopic examination...> I only see
it on him now when I look at him up close, it is that fine of a
texture. If this disease acts ad fast as I understand it does,
shouldn't he be dead by now? <Usually yes... the Copper may
have reduced the virulence, population...> It is at least 2 days
total that the disease was manifesting itself on him. He was 3
weeks in quarantine. Something doesn't make sense to me with
the time frame. He was the only fish in quarantine, no others were
introduced. <... Perhaps the reservoir host, situation is in the
main system> 4. I also found your information on doing a fresh
water dip. Tried this on the clown yesterday and he did not
tolerate this at all. <Clowns, fishes that live in close
association with invertebrates are frequently intolerant of the
same sorts of exposures> As soon as a I put him in the water he
was moving about and trying to jump out. As soon as he floated on
the bottom of the bucket, I scooped him out & put him back in
the quarantine tank. The spots have not grown on the clown and may
have diminished a bit, but again the lighting in the quarantine
isn't as bright as the display tank. I put different lights on
it and can see better though. My apologies for going on about this.
It has been on my mind constantly since Saturday night and I've
been reading as much as I can. <Good...> Any other
suggestions you may have are appreciated. At this point, I know I
have to treat the fish and run the quarantine tank. The only way
I've gathered to do this is with copper and freshwater dips as
needed. Do I have this correct? <I would treat all fishes
outside the main tank... allow it to run w/o fish hosts for at
least a month... Do please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/amylloodiniumart.htm and
consider seeking out the anti-malarial listed... If this is
Velvet/Amyloodinium, this compound will be your best shot at an
actual cure. Bob Fenner> Thanks. Michael |
Re: Clown ok? 3/28/07 Bob: <Michael>
Thanks again for the reply. <Welcome> I went to college for
Mathematics and have minors in Physics and Computer Science. So, your
explanations of the copper molecules don't totally escape me.
<Ah, good... I try to practice my "simple explanations" on
my poor friends, associates... Our field (ornamental aquatics) is
absolutely HUGE...> Chemistry was my weak point + it is has been 15
years since I graduated. Your analogy of a stabilizer in a pool brought
it home. <Ahh! Great! I actually met the daughter of the gentleman
who "invented" this fabulously useful product...> Please
make sure I understand what you/your website recommends: Just to
clarify, all fish are to be treated per the copper dosage on the
medication. I use a test to kit to make sure I'm giving the proper
dosage. Putting five small fish in a 10 gallon quarantine tank for 30
days is fine (I just have to keep up with water changes). However,
clownfish don't handle the copper well and need to have a smaller
dosage of the medication. What dosage do you recommend for the
chelated, "CopperSafe" product? <The lower end... as
stated on WWM... no less than 0.15 ppm, no more if poss. than 0.20...
but again... I suspect this is Amyloodinium... not Crypt.,
Brooklynella, other protozoan complaint... It would be best treated
with the anti-malarial... Next best by successive formalin dips/baths
and being moved to novel settings each time afterward... NOT copper>
I didn't pick up on that in the links you sent or the e-mail.
Unless I can find something else, CopperSafe is what I will have to
use. Also, I had previously read your "Coral Reef or Velvet
Disease" article. I thought I had printed it but didn't.
Thanks for the link and reminder. <Real good> Forgive me if
I'm asking a lot of questions or being redundant. I just want to
make sure that I'm getting it all right. I work a stressful job for
10-12 hours a day (I'm in sales). I like to spend time with my
family when I come home. Lately, I've been spending time with the
fish. ;) <No worries... hard at times to
prioritize... harder still to find... or one of my faves,
"make" time>> I'll think of some suggestions for
the web site flow and e-mail you when I get a chance on that
separately. Michael <BobF>
Fireworm question, source/LS? Clown Dis.,
Comp. 3/20/07 Hi Crew, <Jennifer> Thanks for all
of the help you've given me thus far! I had a question which I
couldn't exactly find an answer to in your FAQ's, but I
apologize if I'm asking something you've already answered. I
recently discovered that I have some kind of fireworm/bristleworm in my
fish only tank. I have no live rock so I'm not sure how it got into
the tank, unless it came from the live sand. The one(s) that I've
seen have been at least an inch and a half long, bright orangey red and
very thin. <Easily possible> I'm not sure how long they are
because I always only catch a glimpse of them just as they are creeping
into an empty shell (which I have around for the hermit crabs) or
disappearing into the sand. I haven't been able to identify them
exactly beyond the fact that they are polychaetes of some sort. They
look a lot like the 4th, 6th and 7th pictures under "errant
polychaetes" on this website http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/hitchhikerworms.html
(a link I got from your FAQ's). <Mmm, thousands of species...
you've likely read re their possible compatibility...> Now to
the question. Last week one of my ocellaris clownfish had a white spot
on the side of it's face. It didn't look like ich or anything
like that, just a bump. Almost like a white pimple. It was behaving
normally and eating and everything so I thought I'd leave it for a
day or two and see what happens. Two days later it was complete gone
and he seems just fine. Today my other clownfish has a similar white
spot in the front of it's face, near it's right eye. I read
that the "fire" in fireworm comes from the effect the
bristles have when dislodged into an unsuspecting victim. Is it
possible that the bumps on the fish are a result from an interaction
with the fireworm? <Yes> (They like to nose around in the sand to
make sure they haven't missed any food after feeding time.) Do the
worms pose a danger to my fish? <Can, definitely... Some even to
humans> I also have two Nassarius vibex snails who spend most of
their days buried in the sand (until feeding time of course). Do the
worms pose a threat to them? <Again, a possibility> Should I be
worried? Would you recommend trapping them and getting rid of them?
<Mmm, no, not necessarily...> If they aren't a threat then
having them as detritivores is always good, right? <Likely so>
Will they get to a size that I need to be worried about? <Can't
tell from here, yet...> Thanks so much in advance! Jen <Best to
keep an eye on them... monitor the Clowns' recovery... consider
control measures... Posted on WWM. Bob Fenner> Sick Clown
3/20/07 Hi everyone, <Hello> I'm sorry to bother you, but
I'm at my wits' end. <No bother, that's what we are here
for.> I have a 30 gallon FOWLR tank, 35lbs LR, Ammonia and nitrites
are at 0, nitrates are at around 20ppm. SG is 1.023-1.024, pH is never
below 8.3, temp is around 78 degrees F. <Good> On
Thursday I added a false percula clown without quarantine (I know, my
first mistake) He was doing great, eating, getting along great with
everyone including my other clown. On Saturday night he stopped eating
and looked like he lost all of his color, he was gone by Sunday
morning, unfortunately by that point the other clownfish started acting
the same way and I lost him that night. Right now in the tank I have 1
flame angel, 1 strawberry Pseudochromis, 1 algae blenny and a cleaner
wrasse (I know, I know). When I went to the fish store to ask if they
had any suggestions they said he would help). Unfortunately now the
Flame angel and Pseudochromis have both stopped eating (which is very
different for both, both are usually excellent eaters!) <Never a
good sign> and the flame has lost some color around it's mouth.
The algae blenny seems unaffected and the wrasse is eating and seems to
be fine. My water tests and the tests at 2 fish stores (specializing in
salt water) have said my water looks great. I feed 2x/day in the
morning they get any variety of frozen food, Mysis (soaked in Selcon)
an omnivore formula, squid, krill, etc. At night I offer a good quality
flake food. I do a 5g water change weekly. I have a BioWheel filter
running and a protein skimmer good for a 60g tank running 24/7.
Everyone was fine until I added that clown (I learned my lesson,
don't worry) but I can't figure out what the
disease/parasite/problem is! If you could shed any light I would
greatly appreciate it. Thank you, Barbara <Do you know if this was a
wild caught clown? Assuming it was Brooklynellosis, aka
Clownfish disease, would be my first guess. This
disease is quite treatable but action needs to be taken
quickly. Freshwater dips and formalin are the preferred
treatments here, and of course QTing the fish. Please see
here for more http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brooklynellosisart.htm
and here for more on FW dips http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm
.> <Chris>
Sick Clown Part II 3/20/07 Thank you very
much for your time. <Sure> The Clownfish was said to be tank
bred. <Uncommon in tank bred clowns, but not unheard
of.> If it is Brooklynellosis I know I need to treat the
Angel, what about the wrasse and the algae blenny? <I would dip them
too, properly done there is no down side.> Also, what should I do
for the main tank? Will it clear up once the fish are treated or do I
need to let it lay fallow, etc before it is back to normal? <Fallow
would be best, besides it will be much easier to see and catch the fish
should they need to be treated again in a QT tank.> Thanks again!
Barbara
<Chris>
| Clownfish Growth? -- 03/18/07 Bob & crew:
<Michael> I came to your website via Bob's book and trust
your methods and judgment. The book has been helpful to me so far,
I'm hoping you can provide some assistance with a fish I have
in low salinity (1.012) quarantine. <Mmm... am not such a
fan> I purchased a Clownfish from a local dealer about two weeks
ago. I had watched him over the course of a few weeks and believed
him to be a healthy specimen. However, he may have came from a reef
since he wasn't marked as tank raised. The dealer's
employee wasn't sure if he was or not, so I'm assuming he
is wild caught. <Am not so sure...> The first issue I saw
with him was funny looking growth behind on of his gills after he
was in quarantine for a few days. I asked the dealer about it and
he said it could be a parasite. Since he was in low salinity, I
didn't want to medicate him for a parasite right away. I did,
however, add a few doses of Melafix <Am definitely not a fan>
to the water over a few days to help with any bacteria. After a
week, the growth was gone. I did a 50% water change. Now, I've
noticed a couple of funny white growths on his lower jaw. Almost
looks like he has a bit of a beard going. Photos attached. <I
see these> I read your Clownfish page and I don't have any
Maracyn II. Any suggestions on what this is? <Looks like some
skin growth from a mechanical injury> Any treatments? <No>
The Melafix does not seem to be harmful, <Or helpful... can/does
interfere with nitrification...> so I could dose him with that
again. He is eating well and swimming all around the tank. I'd
just like to make sure he doesn't have something he could
spread to display tank when I put him in. Please let me know what
you think. Thanks. Michael Astfalk Hummelstown, PA <I would
place this fish in the main display and not worry. Bob
Fenner> |
Re: Clownfish Growth?
3/18/07 Bob: <Michael> Thanks for the
reply. <Welcome> One last question - Did you mean that you
are not a fan of low salinity quarantine or that you're not a
fan of your book? :) Michael
<Heeeee! Just not hyposalinity during quarantine. BobF> |
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