Please visit our Sponsors
FAQs about the Diseases of Clownfishes 15

Related FAQs: Clownfish Disease 1, Diseases of Clownfishes 2, Diseases of Clownfishes 3, Clownfish Disease 4, Clownfish Disease 5, Clownfish Disease 6, Clownfish Disease 7, Clownfish Disease 8, Clownfish Disease 9, Clownfish Disease 10, Clownfish Disease 11, Clownfish Disease 12, Clownfish Disease 13, Clownfish Disease 14, Clownfish Disease 16, Clownfish Disease 17, Clownfish Disease 18, Clownfish Disease 19, Clownfish Disease 20, Clownfish Disease 21, Clownfish Disease 22, Clownfish Disease 24, Clownfish Disease 25, Clownfish Disease 26, Clownfish Disease 27, & FAQs on Clownfish Disease By: Environmental Stress, Nutrition, Social/Behavioral/Territoriality, Trauma/Mechanical Injury, & Pathogens: Lymphocystis, Infectious Disease (Bacteria, Fungi...), Protozoans: Cryptocaryon/Ich, Amyloodinium/Velvet, Brooklynella (see article below), & Mysteries/Anomalous Losses, Cure, Success Stories, & Clownfishes in General, Clownfish Identification, Clownfish Selection, Clownfish Compatibility, Clownfish Behavior, Clownfish Systems, Clownfish Feeding, Clownfishes and AnemonesBreeding Clowns

Related Articles: Clownfish Disease, Clownfishes, Maroon Clowns, Marine DiseaseBrooklynellosis

Re: Lighting For A Condy In A Nano Reef. Now Ich 9/19/07 Sorry about the lower case letters. Thanks for your help. <You're welcome.> I returned the Condy today. <Good move.> I am also starting to notice some white spots on both of my clowns. I have read a lot it and I think it is ICH. (I think that's how you spell it). Anyways, what would be the best way to solve this problem? <Read here and linked files above. Do not waste any time doing so. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm James (Salty Dog)>

Help with a growth on clownfish?   3/14/07 Hello to the Crew. The information on wetwebmedia.com has been very helpful and your replies are very caring. Here is a story about the follies of a new tank owner. All the facts are present and the main question has to do with a growth on a clown fish. Shall we begin?..... <Oh yes!> My 55 gallon tank, started 2-4-2007, with Puka shell crushed coral, <Good looking, but not much help with biofiltration of alkalinity/pH control> undergravel filter (I have read about the controversy), <But DO still work> and dry sand on top (for aesthetics), 30 lbs live rock, <Good> (2) Penguin 550 power heads, Aqua Tech 30/60 power filter hanging on the back, full fluorescent light hood (want upgrade some day!), 78 degrees, hydrometer reads 1.020 salinity (in the process of adding fresh water to lower), <Actually... the wrong direction... I would raise the density of the water... through water changes... over a month or mores time... to about 1.025> and I am slowly taking a cup of coral out and replacing with dry sand as to not upset my entire aquatic world and invite a tank crash. I will continue to run the underground filters until the majority of the crushed coral bed has been replaced with sand and then I will unplug the underground filter. Good plan? <Can work> *Fish added 2-22-07,* (2) percula clownfish, (1) sailfin black blenny Atrosalarias fuscus, (1) yellow ritteri anemone (big mistake, too early), <Ah, yes> Kenya tree corals, 8 snails, and a chocolate chip starfish. <... this last... Please read about on WWM> *3.7.07* One of the damsels was turning brown, very sick. The other one was the bully terrorizing the entire tank because it is in its nature. Definitely one of the most challenging things I have done catching the mongrels. No more damsels. Yeah. I gave the anemone a new home in an established tank. Also, I have traded the CC starfish. No more predators. <Yay!> And from now on I am doing my research on temperament and compatibility. <Double yay!> Lesson learned, the difficult way. The blenny (my fave) seems ok, and the Chromis are ok, but snails all died (as far as I can tell). I have the algae growth on the back and side of my tank, and I see the blenny scraping it off, but the snail demise is a puzzler. I feed marine flakes, frozen brine shrimp, and Emerald Entrée. <Easily lost to simple lack of biomineral content... See... WWM re... Gastropod Health, Systems...> My big problem right now is the remaining clownfish is sick with a growth. I have studied the archives (very helpful) and have narrowed it down to lymphocystis or fungus. It is a cauliflower looking light beige color between the top fins. It has progressively grown over the last couple weeks. The clown is swimming fine, eating and coming up to the side of the tank to show off his ailment. I want to help it, but I hesitate to "scrape" the growth off with my fingers. The fish is less than two inches long and I feel it might stress it out more to catch and mess with it. Plus, I have tried to net it and the clown is fast and smart. However, the growth is progressing quickly from between the top fins, and looks like it might penetrate down into the middle of the body. I have done a 20% water change, treated the tank with erythromycin tablets, <Nah!> another 20% water change. The EM seemed to help the white spot on the Chromis, but the lesion on his other side is still present.** I purchased Kordon's Rid-Fungus, <No> but am thinking of returning it to trade for more live rock. Is it a good product to keep on hand to treat the tank? <Negative> (don't have a hospital tank) I read that fungus is a rare occurrence. <Tis> I would appreciate any advice you have for this new hobbyist. I like it better when everything in my tank is on the up and up, and unfortunately I feel uneasy about the growth on the clown. *3.11.07 (similar readings as before)* Instant Ocean OceanMaster test kit: alkalinity 5 mEq/L, ph 8.0, no ammonia, nitrate 10, low range nitrite .2 (lowest part of test strip)** <I'd look into getting a Lysmata sp. shrimp here to help "clean up" the Clown, and add a bit of excitement to your system period... This, along with returning the water to a better spg, and possibly bolstering the Clown's immune system by supplementing (soaking the food with a vitamin, HUFA product) will likely "do it". Bob Fenner> Re: Help with a growth on clownfish?   3/14/07 Dear Bob, Thank you so much for the advice. It is good to know that I might be able to help my clown through a symbiotic relationship rather than medication. That solution is right up my alley. I will share this informative and wonderful web site with all my marine hobbyist friends, as well as continue to use it as a resource! Regards, Elaine <Ahh! A pleasure Elaine. Bob Fenner> Clownfish Question 3/12/07 Hi, <Hello> yesterday I bought a clown fish from a local chain store, and brought him home, he did very well his first day...he swum around and explored when I came home from school today he was lying on its side on the bottom of the tank when I would move to that area he would move and stir but then come back to a spot on the bottom and lie on his side. <Is the tank dark, this is how my clowns sleep.> He seems to be breathing at a normal rate and is using both fins, yet he hasn't really ate the fish flakes that the pet store sold us for him. <Needs more than flakes, and if wild caught may not know they are food.  Try pellets or frozen food.> I have done water tests and the pH is 8.4 the temp is 77.5 and the Alkalinity is in a normal range. Any idea as to what is wrong with him, I am worried about him. <First check Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, my guess would be this is the source of you problem.  Also give him a good look over and make sure he does not have any spots or dust like covering on him which would indicate disease.  Otherwise just give him a few days, he may just be settling in.> Thanks, Nic <Chris>

Re: Clown Fish Question, hlth, beh?   3/15/07 Hi guys, <Hello Nic, Brandon here tonight.> I sent a question to you a couple of days ago about a Clownfish that was hanging out laying on the bottom of the tank. <In the future please send with the original message attached, there are some 20+ crew members here, and this is sometimes the only way that we can tell who originally dealt with the message.> <<Ah, yes... and greatly aids my being able to find, place all... RMF>> I took your advice and just gave him a couple of days but when I went to the tank this morning, very sad to say had died. <Sorry to hear this.> He was not taking to his food very well I only observed him eating once and he spit the food back out...I also tried brine shrimp, but to no avail. <This is unfortunate, but common.> I hope to eventually raise a successful marine tank and was wondering if you had any idea as to why my little guy might not have made it? <Really there are too many possibilities to narrow it down to just one.  Most often in these cases it is the specimen.  I would not beat myself up about it too much, and just realize that this sometimes "just happens".> The levels of everything were right on and the temp was good, the yellow polyp coral in the tank seems to be doing quite well also. If there is any advice you can give to a newbie in the marine tank hobby I would greatly appreciate it. <Don't let this one unfortunate incident turn you away from this wonderful hobby.> Thanks Nic <You are welcome. Brandon.>

The One Million Dollar Question (Clowns) Clown stress - 3/10/2007 What's wrong with my clown?! After searching the Internet, posting on various forums, searching some more, talking to the local fish store guys and searching one last time, I'm praying that you can help me out. My tank is a 15gallon nano reef and has been set up for about six months. After the cycle was completely finished, I added my cleanup crew, and then a pair of tank-bred juvenile ocellaris clowns from a store I don't shop at anymore. <This tank is too small for a pair of clownfish. Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnsysfaqs.htm and linked files above.> Everything was great for about 1-2 months, and then one clown started acting weird. It would hide the majority of the day and when it would come out, it seemed very timid and would make quick, 'whirling' spins and twirls back to its cave. It then had an off-and-on battle with being able to stay upright, as the acrobatic swimming pattern continued. This continued for only about two-three days, getting increasingly worse, until one night I noticed the poor guy lost it -- he couldn't fight the flow and was being carried across the tank, occasionally doing the violent twirls into rocks/glass/corals, and was breathing very heavily. I decided it was best to euthanize the fish. He had absolutely NO physical signs of anything wrong other than what was listed above. No discoloration, no spots/blotches of any kind, no missing fins, no puffy eyes, no bloody/red gills, nothing different about his body shape, no mucus, nothing at all! The other clown seemed perfectly fine and healthy, so I waited a month to make sure everything was ok before I purchased her a mate (from a different fish store). Now, yesterday <How long since addition?> I noticed that the remaining clown from the previous incident is showing the exact same signs as the former. It came right out of the blue, one day she was completely normal, the next day she started hiding and had the insane swimming pattern. <If they are juveniles, they are both still males.  Or is the affected fish larger/older?> It was getting worse by the hour it seemed, so today I was informed by others to do an emergency formalin dip and see if it would help. The clown has been in my QT tank ever since the dip and doesn't seem to be getting any worse, but is still hiding, coming out, violently twirling into anything and everything, swimming back to her spot and repeating the process. Meanwhile, her mate is perfectly normal in the display tank. My parameters are all good. I do weekly 20% water changes with RO. SG is at 1.024 and temperature is 79-80F. <What about the other critical parameters? pH, ammonia, nitrite? These must be tested.  Such a small system can have very quick changes.> For the most part, everything is pretty stable and I don't have any intense swings. Other tank mates include a cleaner shrimp, porcelain crab, hermits and snails, and various soft corals (mushrooms, anthelia, Ricordea, etc). I feed either a little portion of formula one pellets, Spirulina flake, frozen Mysis or frozen enriched brine every day, and I add a little Kent Marine C every other day and don't overdose it. <This could be a lot of food/pollution in such a small tank.> I should also mention that I called the old store that I purchased the clowns from and the store manager was unsure of where they get their tank-bred ocellaris clowns. I explained my problem to him and he insisted it was my 'poor water quality' and wouldn't answer me when I asked if other customers were having similar problems. He was very rude. <That's disappointing.> So, I'm completely stumped. Could this be a weird parasite, could the fish have been exposed to something before I purchased them that could have a delayed effect like this, or am I just bad with clownfish? <Could be stress due to space limitations and aggression, pH or ammonia/nitrite problems, environmental toxins (air fresheners, smoke, cleaning agents - did these episodes ever coincide with house cleaning day?), or possibly disease - not as likely since you quarantine and the timing does not sound like disease.> I never slack off when it comes to tank maintenance, and have grown very attached to everything I have -- especially my clowns. If you can help me figure out what's going on, I would be forever thankful. <This is such a small system, one clown with the inverts is plenty. If you want a pair of clownfish, 29 gal would be a tight fit. I would not try smaller than a 55 gal. Read also here re nano systems: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm >   Sincerely, Steven <Alex>

Clownfish lost part of his mouth?!   2/24/07 Hi guys, <Wendy> Thank you for such an informative site.  I have searched this subject to see if anyone else has had a similar problem, but didn't find anything exact, so here's my problem. We have a false percula clown that we purchased from the local pet store a few weeks ago.  The day after we brought him home, we noticed one side of his lip appeared "swollen" as though it had a deformity. <Does happen...> We kept him in an isolation tank away from our other fish, to see if there was a problem or not.  At this time he was acting fine, and eating normal.  Within a week, he started to grow white fuzzy stuff on his lip where it originally looked swollen.  This progressed quickly and was obviously causing him difficulty in eating.  It started to turn grey in color, and looked like a beard! <Likely bacterial decomposers at work... often mis-identified as mycelial/fungal>   We treated his tank with all of the following so far:  Maracyn, Maracyn-Two, Stress Coat, Triple Sulfa, and Maroxy.  This was not improving his condition at all, so we asked the owner of the pet store if he had encountered anything like this before.  He suggested "scraping off" the fuzzy material and that this would allow the area to heal better. <Mmmm> Out of desperation we did as he said, and gently scraped off the poor little guy's "beard".  Unfortunately, part of his lip was gone as a result of the "fuzz".  Now, he has not been eating for several days, and the "fuzzy" material is starting to grow back on what remains of his lip.  We are afraid we are going to lose him soon if we can't get him to eat.  Any ideas would be of great help to us.  Thanks in advance for your suggestions. Wendy <I think you have done as much as you can here... Only time can/will tell whether enough of this little fish's mouth area will regenerate (and in time) to sustain it. Bob Fenner>

Re: I looked everywhere! (But did you look here?) pt.3 2/22/07 Hi Graham, <Hello, I'm sorry for the delay, but... well, you know.> So here's the update on the situation I got the qt out and got the baby clowns in there. <Excellent!> I've been treating them with Instant Ocean's Lifeguard.   << friendly_press_release.asp%3FdocumentID%3D211+Instant+Ocean+Lifeguard&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=2&gl=us High-tech...>> <I don't have any experience with this product yet, but the write-up looks good; non-antibacterial means good for the nitrifying bacteria..> I guess it's new it is supposed to help treat bacterial, fungal, viral, and parasitic diseases.  My qt is a 30 g but I have it filled only half way.   <?> The QT parameters are as follows pH 8.2, Ammonia: 0.25 ppm <!!! Water change now!>, Nitrite 0 ppm, Nitrate 0 ppm, and salinity: 1.023 ppt.   <Would remind you that with a QT, especially a half-full one with little/no filtration to speak of, you will need to be performing large daily water changes to  take the place of filtration.> The display tank's parameters are pH: 8.2, Ammonia 0 ppm, Nitrite 0 ppm, Nitrate 5.0 ppm, and salinity 1.022 ppt.  I know the qt is bad, I'm planning on doing a partial water change tomorrow.   <See above.> I think part of the problem is that I'm just using a sponge filter that I had let sit in my tank for 5 days and the fact that there's no live rock or sand in the qt and I guess I've been overfeeding them a bit as well.   <All true...> I have noticed one of the other clowns has a similar white growth on the tip of its tail and a third one has a white cyst-looking think on its right pectoral fin that seems to be growing THROUGH his fin, it's protruding slightly on both sides of it, it does look similar to the other clowns' growths.   <Would try FW-dips (Read WWM re) in addition to the QT, daily.> <<And I'd amend the pH-adjusted FW dips/baths with formalin and aeration>> I am beginning to think you were correct and that it is that lymphocystis since they are on day four of the medication (it's only supposed to be used for 5 days) and it seems that they are all getting it.   I went back to that LFS and their siblings who are still at the store all seem to have this as well I'm thinking it's just genetic.   <Not genetic, no. Just associated.> <<And like common models of such viral involvements, environmentally/nutritionally mediated>> I did purchase a skunk cleaner shrimp and acclimated him to the display tank so that once I do return them to it maybe he can pick the growth off them, if they'll let him.   I did figure out a way to get pictures of them as they are all very very feisty and eating heartily still.   <Very common with cystic infections...> I forgot  my camcorder has the option to take still frames of video, so I grabbed some video of them and got the shots from that, it's not super clear but at least you can take a look at it now.  Oh and for diet I read on the saltwaterfish forum about diseases and diet, hence the reason I thought a cleaner shrimp would help since someone on there had a percula with a similar problem.   <Can be helpful. (Natural solution, no meds...)> So I have made them homemade fish food from a recipe on the site.  It's a mixture of cuttlefish, clam, octopus, cooked mussel, scallop, and shrimp, ground up with kelp, chard, fresh garlic, and soaked in Kent's Zoecon.   <Very good, will help them fight.> They've been on that and the flake food and frozen Hikari Mysis shrimp since Sunday.   OH and to make matters worse I just saw today that my coral beauty seems to have an eye injury, I wasn't able to get her out of the display tank and into the qt with the clowns, I'm waiting on an order for one of those fish catcher things.   <Have had repeated success treating eyes with FW-dips, and possible physical removal of parasite. You may find that the cloudiness will slough off in the lower salinity.> Anyhow it looks like she has two scratches across her cornea and she is acting quite neurotic, she keeps swimming up and down in the same corner of the tank, I'm not sure if it's bc of the injury or bc I finally got my light in today.  The new light has 260 watts whereas the old one did as well however, the bulbs were about a year overdue for a change and it was also only 30" whereas the new one is 48" and actually fits the entire length of my tank.  I have a picture of her cornea too, my bf thinks it could be fungal too.  So if it is how and why am I having such a fungus problem???  :'(  Thank you for all your help and input Graham, sorry this is so long winded I have attached the pics I hope they help. <Fungal... hmm. I wish I was a fish doctor. I need to see what I'm dealing with, and even then I don't have one method of treatment for each problem. I would recommend you treat for Lymph and consider Epsom salt for the angel after the FW-dip. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/epsomfaqs.htm. I am assuming you have read all the FAQs here about clowns and their associated problems, along with how to setup a QT. I think you're on the right track here, but the QT should be maintained with water changes more often than you suppose is enough. Remember: measurable ammonia is too much! I'm looking back, and noticing that I'm not that helpful here! I will CC this to Bob for review. I am very fatigued, but felt a sense of obligation to answer your Q's. I hope you find something useful here! -GrahamT> Shawn
<<I am in agreement with your stmt.s Graham. BobF>>

Re: I looked everywhere! (But did you look here?) pt.4 2/23/07 lymph..?  2/27/07 Hi Bob and Graham, Thank you both so much for taking a look at my problem.   <Welcome, Shawn. Good to hear back from you!> I noticed today that the clown with the lip growth looks much better, it looks like it popped (kinda gross, sorry) and it's all deflated and clear looking now and the one with it through his fin it looks like it got plucked out or it popped also as there is a lil crater where it had been in his fin.   <All good news!> The only one who looked the same was the one who had it on his tail so we tried what the LFS suggested and scrapped it with our fingernail.  It came off very easily and he seemed to be ok once we put him back in the water but stressed a bit of course.  So it seems the lifeguard has helped out a bit!   <Good! I've been wondering about the success with this product. Have been without a means to test, which is never bad...> As for the angel I'm going to get a fish corral and get her in the hospital tank to deal with her eye.   <Good, good.> I did see at Petco they have edible penicillin, Ampicillin, or tetracycline for fish to deal with fungal, bacterial infections.  Do you think that could help my angel so that the eye doesn't become infected or should I just try the Epsom salt and fw dip treatments?   <The latter. I am a proponent of "less is more" when treating our buddies. Start small and act according to ineffectuality.> Thanks again guys I really appreciate all the feedback you have provided. <And you too! (Sorry for the long wait, again... [sigh] ) -GrahamT>

Re: Sick W/Ich Clowns???     2/23/07 Mr. Fenner, <Just Bob, Greg> Thanks for your response(s). Yes there are two 6" flowerpots in the 125G tank. I have seen them used by many for an area to lay the eggs. <Mmm, I would use something else> I never even gave it a second thought. Do these clay pots leach chemicals in the tank? <Can, yes> My PH is very steady and if it was leaching something detrimental wouldn't a swing in PH be a tell tail sign? <Mmm, no... acid-base reactions are only one of a few basic type of chemical interactions... covalent, ionic...> Now that I type this I realize that the fish may be the better interpreters. <Ahhh! Yes> Maybe I should use a Poly Filter to absorb some impurities. I can remove the pots but they have taken up with one by sleeping in it at night (together) finally. Maybe I should replace with a ceramic tile. <Yes... or stacked calcareous rock...> I'm sure they aren't going to like it as much. I'd like to attempt to rear the Fry if and when they ever lay the eggs. I have read both your book and Joyce Wilkerson's. I must admit that I have learned a great deal from both. I know from your book why my 55G reef tank, that I had 10 years ago, went bad (no protein skimmer and few/small water changes, etc.). It seems like this new setup with the DSB, Live rock, high flow/turnover rate, etc. has made a great system. <Yes... much more stable, optimized for life> This time I used a pair of 250 watt Metal Halide 14K with supplemental Actinics. My purple algae is growing very nicely. I have to add that, when starting up, I used FritzZyme this time when my Ammonia started to rise and it worked wonderfully. <Is a good product when "fresh", handled (in transit) properly> I didn't even use the full amount that said was needed. Half the bottle at first then 1/4 the bottle the 3rd day and the last 1/4 the 5th day. I never even saw any Nitrite or Nitrate readings and I checked them twice daily. It appeared to cycle right away! Have you witnessed this happen? <Yes> The Nitrate absence is probably due to the DSB. I only had a very slight brown algae bloom which is nearly all gone now. I'm getting way off subject here. Thanks for noticing the clay pots and if you think I should remove them I reluctantly will. Should I also get a cleaner shrimp or Goby. What do you recommend with a pair of Premnas biaculeatus? <Likely the shrimp... a fish of any sort is too likely to be perceived as a territorial threat> Hopefully something they will allow to clean them without the clowns eating them. Do I quarantine cleaners? I have no cleanup crew right now other than myself. Best, Greg <I would not quarantine a shrimp myself per se... but do take care in acclimating same if there is any difference in water quality... often the best approach here is a small intermediate tank... adding some of the DT water gradually... even over days... Please read here:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm and (here it comes), the linked files above. BobF>

Clownfish Troubles 2/23/07 Hi Guys, <Hi> Thanks for such a great site, I can't tell you how much I've learned. <Good to hear.> Some background: I have a two year old 30g reef tank: Eclipse hood with BioWheel and refit with two 24" VHO lamps (1 75w Super Actinic and 1 75w Aquasun) and blue moon lights About 35# Jakarta live rock 25# Live Aragonite sand Hang-on protein skimmer Power-sweep oscillating power head 150w heater 1 Six-line Wrasse 1 Mandarin Goby <Not appropriate for such a small tank.> 2 Peppermint Shrimp 2 Emerald Crabs 1 Cleaner Shrimp 1 Bubble-tip Anemone Green Star Polyps Mushrooms Button Polyps Pulsing Xenia Green Montipora (a volunteer which seems to do very well in the top of the tank) <Mixing anemones and corals it tough, especially in this sized tank>. Everything seems to do quite well, the only thing I have trouble with is maintaining is high enough pH and Total Alkalinity <Can be difficult, make sure to buffer water change water, will help.> Water Parameters Specific Gravity 1.023 pH 8.0 Total Alkalinity 3 mEq/L (8.4 *DKH) Ca 300 mg/L Nitrite <10 mg/L Phosphate <.2 mg/L I use RO/DI water and Instant Ocean Reef Crystals <Ok.> I used to be more concerned about the low pH and TA but I've had trouble with values "bouncing" too fast when adding supplements (Seachem Marine Buffer) and causing trouble with the livestock. Do you have any ideas on a supplement that would act a little slower and last longer? <Mixing up the water closer to 1.025 may help.> What are your thoughts on using sodium bicarbonate in a small reef tank. <Works fine, basic ingredient in most marine buffers.> At the insistence of WWM I decided to set up a fish-only/quarantine tank in anticipation of getting a Clown for my BTA. The QT is 20g with wet-dry filter, 15lbs live rock, 20 lbs Aragonite sand with a Watchman Goby and Coral Beauty as permanent residents. <Not really a QT, more of a holding tank.> I was able to get a matched pair of Saddlebacks from my LFS (very reputable, never told me anything that contradicts with WWM but about 1 1/2 hr drive from home) that looked great in the store. When I got them home they did fine the first day or so but then developed what I thought was Marine Ich. I treated the QT with supposedly reef safe No-Ich from Fish Vet Inc. (recommended by a different LFS I don't trust as much but much closer to home), and 25% water changes every 3rd day.  <No such thing as an effective reef-safe Ich treatment.> The Saddlebacks seemed to alternate between improvement and decline for a little over a week and then both expired within 24 hrs of each other. After the first died I even tried a freshwater bath with the survivor which lasted about 5 min.s before it declined enough to be put back in the QT. (It then survived another 18 hrs. before finally dying tonight). Both resident fish in the QT have shown no ill effects at all, which leaves me wondering what I'm doing wrong. Any opinions?? Thanks for the help Rusty Pressnall <Need to re-evaluate your approach to QTing.  Chances are both the old fish are infected, but stronger since the QT is "their" territory and are well-fed.  Shipping stress plus the other fish make the new additions more susceptible to Ich.  Bare bottom QTs with just PVC are best since treatment can be done without concern for LR or other inhabitants, and bleached clean when done.  Also gives fish a chance to "fatten up" without competing with tankmates.  Please see these two articles http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QuarMarFishes.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quaranti.htm .> <Chris>

Clownfish Needed Help 2/23/07 Bob & crew, <Hi, Chris here.> My son emailed you a few days ago.  We lost one, small tank raised  Ocellaris a few days ago. <Sorry to hear.> We actually were out purchasing a 2nd and arrived back home to see the first in trouble.  Anyway, don't know if the new one is tank raised - forgot to ask (I'm thinking not since they didn't mention it at the store). <The majority are, hard to say.>  It has been eating a bit, swimming well (in the main tank, we didn't have a QT).  The only thing in the main tank was the ocellaris, live rock and sand, and about 5 small hermits and 5 small  snails.  The water quality tests fine and we did a 20% water change right before the other died. Today, the new fish has long, stringy white poop.  Plus, he seemed a little sluggish.  No noticeable white spots or haze anywhere else.   Thinking it could be clownfish disease or internal parasites or ?? <Sounds like possibilities.>  After reading your site and a few other online forums, we decided to accelerate our plans to  set up a QT and get started on some treatment. <Good.>  Lacking formalin, we  decided to at least do a freshwater dip and get him in a QT.  Now I have a  few questions that I haven't seen answers to. First, now that the clown has been freshwater dipped and moved to the QT,  we plan to keep him there and probably do a formalin dip and possibly formalin food.  <Not familiar with formalin food, New Life Spectrum does make an anti-parasitic food, would go with this.>  Two weeks? <Longer, 4 to 6 before back to the main tank, treatment depends on what you use.  Follow the manufacturer's directions.>  What I don't understand is how the main tank (and  the QT itself) won't just wind up reinfecting the fish once he goes back in  after the dip.  Should we dose the QT as well?  <Depends on what you are treating for.>  Will the main tank clear of the parasites with no hosts or do we need to do something?  <Most likely.>  We  could do a complete water change, would that be a good idea since the tank is  basically empty at this point. <No, too hard on the LR, continue regular maintenance schedule.> We have a protein skimmer on order which  should be here tomorrow, does that do anything for clearing disease causing  organisms? <Not really, but would remove any treatment attempted in the main tank.> About the QT, since we were in a hurry, we set it up in one of the little (2.5g) bow tanks.  It has a Whisper filter (we had been soaking a new  filter pad for it in the main tank sump for about 2 days to pick up  bacteria). <Good, but may need to see if you can find Bio-Spira to help it along a bit, otherwise watch the water quality closely and be ready for maybe daily water changes.>  Plus, we have a very small powerhead to move the water.   Bare bottom, a fairly good chunk of live rock from the main tank to help filter  and small heater.  <Remove the LR, it will absorb any medication you have and make dosing difficult.  Also the formalin will kill off most life on it making it difficult to maintain water quality.>   Other than size, is there anything fundamentally wrong  with this setup?  If we do dose the tank, I planned to pull out the live  rock and maybe use some Purigen or Chemi-pure after dosing before putting the  rock back. <Don't put the rock back, the powerfilter will take its place.> But, again, is it likely that the fish will simply get  reinfected?  I know we will have to do frequent water testing and changes,  but it was the best we could do on short notice!  (PS - we have decided to  slow down a bit and really make sure we understand everything we need to do  before proceeding).  Thanks in advance!!    Tom <Doesn't really sound like Brooklynellosis < http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brooklynellosisart.htm >, more like an internal parasite.  I would treat with an anti-parasitic food and see if the situation improves.  Caution on using formalin, it is pretty nasty stuff and not to be used lightly.  Leaving the main tank fallow during treatment should limit the chances of reinfection.> <Chris>

New Clownfish... hlth.  2/18/07 I have an ocellaris clownfish, 2 as of today.  I have had the  first one for a week, and was returning home with the second one today, when I  saw that my first clown was lying on his side on the bottom of the tank and  breathing fast.  Occasionally he gets up and swims a bit, but he always  returns to the bottom.  I called my LFS and they said it was most likely a  pH thing, so we tested and added some baking soda.  Several hours later,  the clown had been swimming a while but then lay down on the bottom again.   I don't know what's causing it, as he is tank-bred and has been perfectly  healthy for a week.   However, the second one is fine, swimming around  normally.  All I have in the tank is some LR, 5 snails, and 5 blue-legged  hermit crabs.  Any suggestions?  Oh, and occasionally before this  happened, he did a sort of spasmodic fin flick always to one side, sort of  doubling over for no apparent reason.  Don't know how significant that is,  but if it helps. . .   Thanks. <<Athagger: Firstly, you should always use a quarantine tank to prevent the new fish from getting the existing fish sick.  That said, it's hard to say what the problem is.  Has the first clown been eating normally?  If so, that is a good sign.  I once had a new clown spend a couple of days at the bottom of the tank on its side.  I thought it could be a goner.  Then, it starting behaving normally and 2 years later, it's still happy.  Best of luck, Roy>>

Roy... again... Clown hlth?  2/18/07 Sadly, 1st clownfish did not pull through.  He actually was completely normal throughout the week, eating and everything.  I was also told that  water chemistry could be a problem, but if so wouldn't  the second clown  show some signs of a problem? (he is still fine).   Thanks,  Athagger <<Athagger:  Sorry for your loss. Hopefully, nothing happens to the second one.  Meanwhile, you should set up a Quarantine Tank if you ever plan on buying another one.  Best of luck, Roy>>

Clown Swallowed Air.  2/18/07 Hello, I have tried to find the answer to my question on your site for the past hour, so please forgive me if it is there and i have missed it. I have converted my tropical tank to marine, it is a 45 UK gallon tank, I cycled it with 20kgs of  cured live rock, I have an internal filter, external bio filter and an oversize  protein skimmer. The substrate is crushed coral sand. I have 3 turbo snails and  5 blue leg hermit crabs. My ammonia is 0, nitrite 0 and nitrate 0.I have tried  to resist my urges to spend and have done everything slowly as advised by  my LFS. After quarantine I have added a pair of percula clowns, They acclimatized to the display tank well, swimming around fine, then I fed them,  the smaller one (which I assume is male) was a bit greedy and whilst  feeding swallowed air. I know that sounds silly but I saw him do it. Two big bubbles of air came out of his mouth but his belly is a little swollen now,  and he is constantly fighting to stay down, swimming in a head down position.  His colour is still good and still manages to follow his mate around but I am worried. Will he work the air out of his system or will this be curtains? Is  there anything I can do? I'm sorry for all th questions but I have waited a long time to have these fish and I don't want anything to happen. They are spectacular and after only 7 weeks of having a marine set up I love it! Thanks  in anticipation, Jo x   <<Jo: I think you have nothing to worry about.  In tanks without anemones, Clownfish will often stay near the top of the tank the whole time.  I think that the Clown will be able to work the air out of its system.  When introducing a Clown to your tank, the most important thing is to get it to eat.  It sounds like you've mastered that one.  When I feed flake food, I put the pinch underwater in front of a power head.  That way the food circulates around the tank and doesn't float on the surface.  If you do that, you'll help avoid your Clown swallowing air.  Best of luck, Roy>>

Re: Quarantine - Urgent response needed Please! Sick clown f'?  - 02/15/07 Bob, <Double J> Thanks for the reply!  The damsel has been in the QT for a week and 1/2, the other two only since last Friday.  Would it be safe to FW dip the Royal Gramma and the damsel and move them to the DT? <Likely so... but I'd move the Clown myself>   They seem to be looking and acting great.  That would leave the clown by himself to settle down, an a chance to add a mate.  I have two other damsels in the DT, a Yellow Tail and a Blue Fin.  I also have a Hippo Tang, approx. 3" in length.  These are in a 55 gal DT with 60 lbs of LR. <The Paracanthurus needs more room> OR would it be best to FW dip the clown a move him? <This is what I would do, yes>   I have been through the whole Crypt ordeal in the DT and don't want to again......thus the QT. <I see... and agree> Thanks again for your help!! Jeff <BobF>

Re: Quarantine - Clown still not eating  2/18/07 Bob, I took the clown and gave him the FW dip and added him to the DT right after I got you last response. <Good> He keeps to himself in one corner or the other.... only moving around once the lights go out and the other inhabitants go to their respective homes. He is still not eating, although I did see him take a flake or two and spit them right back out. <Very much to be expected... traumatic moving, goings on... takes time to adjust> I have been feeding Omega One Natural Protein flakes...so I don't think it could be the food. <Mmm...> I have tried some frozen meaty varieties as well with no luck. <Keep trying> I have had the Royal Gramma and the damsel in QT for over a week now with no signs of stress or sickness.  I am thinking about giving them the FW dip, adding them to the DT, and then putting the clown back in QT, and get another to pair up with him. <I would stop moving the Clown... leave it where it is> I really don't want to lose this little fella, I just don't know what to do at this point. Thanks for your help! Jeff <Patience my friend... rare, but valuable. Bob Fenner>

Re: Quarantine - Clown still not eating   2/22/07 Crew, I sent this reply but have not heard anything back. <I responded to this... is found in the last (#15 I believe) of the Clownfish Disease FAQs files>   The clown has been in the DT for 5 days now and is still not eating.  I am at a complete loss for what to do.  He looks at the food and sometimes takes it, but spits it right back out.  I am thinking the best thing is to swap him out with the two in QT as suggested, and get another clown. Thanks Jeff <You have tried live food/s? And putting an appetite stimulant (vitamins, HUFAs) in the water, soaking the foods in them? Bob Fenner>

Sick Clownfish, New System Stocking Problem - 2/13/07 Hi Guys <Hi Darren, Brenda here> I have a 50 gal (US) corner tank, 35-40 lbs live rock, water turn of 900 gal/hr via 3 p/heads and filters, canister filter (Fluval 404) with coral gravel as filter media all running for 6 weeks or so, 1 Mertensii Butterfly 3", 3 blue/green Chromis all 1", 1 Midas Blenny 3" and a very sick looking Common Clown 1" (plus a cleaner and a peppermint shrimp, 6 hermits and 3 Turbos).  I recently introduced a 3 inch Bubble tip anemone also. <Your tank is overstocked for a 6 week old setup.  It is also recommended to wait a minimum of 6 months before adding an anemone.> Temp constant around 77, SG around 1.24, <1.024??> pH 7.7-7.9, no ammonia or nitrite and nitrate around 13-14 mg/l. <Temperature should be 79-81 and salinity should be 1.026 for an anemone with pH at 8.2-8.5.  Nitrates, they need to be at zero.> Now to the Clown which I have had for about 3 weeks, in which he has been very bright, alert and eating well.  He has been in hiding for a day or so, I thought it was because I had to make some adjustments to the live rock and he was startled.  He came out for a swim last night and looked in good health, then this morning I came in and he was lying on the bottom, breathing heavily and trying to swim but struggling.  Since then he has tried to swim into a secluded area beneath the rock and continues to breathe heavily.  I can't see any slime or white coloration that would indicate Brooklynella.  I did recently lose a Regal Tang to some unknown disease (rapid weight loss and loss of appetite, stomach swelling and some accompanying white spot).   <Did you quarantine for 30 days before adding to your tank?> Could the clown have something similar or has he maybe tried to inhabit the anemone and it stung him badly, or is it something else perhaps.  Please help, I really don't want to lose another fish in quick succession. <Bubble Tip Anemones do not sting clownfish.  The Regal Tang's unknown disease could have infected the clownfish.  However, your high nitrates and overstocked new setup alone could cause this also.  I do suggest placing the clownfish in quarantine and water changes to get your nitrates down to zero.  Please read here for more information on clownfish diseases.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clndisfaqs.htm > Kind regards and thanks in advance. Darren <Your welcome!   Brenda>

Clownfish parasite?   2/13/07 Dear Crew, <Kevin> About two days ago, I observed 2 or 3 thin, 2 mm, motile white lines around the pectoral fins of my maroon clownfish. <You have good vision, and are observant> Suspecting an ectoparasite, I gave him a freshwater bath; the lines immediately swelled up into flat gray ovals, which remained attached to the clownfish's body by one end. <Good description> Do you have any idea what these might be, and how I might treat the poor little guy? (Right now he's quarantined, and his mate appears to be unaffected.) <Mmm, yes... on the basis of your description this is likely a crustacean parasite of some sort (though could be a worm...), and the best approach here is one or more pH adjusted FW baths with Formalin... and possibly (if the fish/hosts are in "good-enough" shape) to extract (with forceps, tweezers), the parasites... pulling them gingerly backward (to avoid as much damage...) from the fishs' bodies... Am hopeful that this parasite has a complex life cycle (involving another... intermediate... host that is missing in your system) such that its cycle of reproduction will be/is broken here... If this is unclear, please do search WWM re... and/or write back. Bob Fenner> Thanks!

Sick Clownfish 2/6/07 This is my clownfish that I've had for about 6 weeks.  The bubble on its lip has gotten bigger.  When I got it had this was on it. This fish is bigger then the other clown and is more aggressive.  Its eating habits are fine though. Do u have any idea on what this is? <Could be Lymphocystis, or and bacterial infection due to injury, hard to say from that picture.  Please see here for more - http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm .  Also in the future please spell and grammar check your questions before submitting.> <Chris>

Enviro... cont. corr. w/o it being sent... re Clownfish dis.?  2/5/07 Thank you very much for all your advice and your quick response. It's great to be able to ask someone knowledgeable for help. I started reading your pages on filtration and tank setup and even at first glance I realize I needed to let the cycle establish itself for longer before adding fish. <Ah, yes... such lack is/was/and will be the principal cause of our species loss of aquatic life> I'm vigorously cleaning through the tank with my net now, and I'm planning on rinsing off the decor objects too. I'm also saving up for some new filter cartridges and test kits, with the ultimate goal of getting the nitrates under control. If the current fish die, <If?> I'll let the tank establish itself for several weeks before adding any new ones. Once again, thanks for the help. In the meantime, however, is there anything I can do for my fish? The little dying clown is the same and the other clown is looking worse; both are refusing food. They may be too far gone already but I wish there was something I could do. ~KC <... Am caught up here "en medea res"... the middle of things... I would not feed period if ammonia, nitrite were present... Ameliorative steps for env. dis. are dealt with on WWM. Bob Fenner>

A question about when to treat a disease or let it ride: Clown f'   2/3/07 Crew- Craig> A question about when to treat a disease or let it ride: <Often important consideration...> I have had two perculas manifest some signs of some parasitic condition, likely marine velvet or some non-ick parasitic infestation. Some light 'dusting' here and there is apparent, but no distinct spots that that ick exhibits. <Likely Velvet, and/or Brooklynella...> Also, they show rapid respiration rates of >80 per minute. <Symptomatic of both> Some ocellaris that were plumbed into this system are breathing around the same rate but with little or no outward physical signs. There is one important difference between the ocellaris and the perculas: the ocellaris are still feeding exceptionally well whereas the perculas slowly stopped feeding. This has been going on with the ocellaris for ~2 weeks. When should I make the call to begin a treatment? <I would... remove all fishes, run through a Formalin dip/bath enroute... as detailed on WWM...> If/when feeding stops, or before that would happen while the fish were still vigorous and strong. For now, I am staying my hand but I do not want to wait too long and waste what could be a window of opportunity. <Well-stated... I would take action... and REALLY wish you had a microscope, some background and/or time to peruse reference, make a confirmed diagnosis ahead of treatment here... Bob Fenner> Please advise, Craig

Blind clownfish?   1/24/07 I have had a maroon clown fish for almost 3 years, he is about 4 inches in length. During the last week we noticed that he would not eat, all though it looked like he was looking for food. He hangs out under a rock ledge, seems to be  swimming fine and shows no signs of any kind of disease.   He usually chases a small clown and flame angel when they get to close, <Mmm, this system is too small... beh. anomaly... these fishes wouldn't get near the Premnas otherwise> but over the last two days  they swim right up to him with no problem. My wife called me today and said I  don't think that clown can see, <Possibly> so I tried to feed him by hand and can put my  finger right I front of him and him does not even move. Do you have any answer.  if he does not star to eat I don't think he is going to make is? Mark <Again, maybe... Do you utilize vitamin supplementation? Along with periodic iodine/ide addition to foods, the water, this may reverse the blindness here (avitaminosis)... Please see WWM re. The search tool, indices... Bob Fenner>

Black Spots on Clownfish 1/20/07 Hey, <Hey you!> My pair of wild Ocellaris Clowns developed black spots all over, overnight.  They were fine until I removed the Green Bubble Tip Anemone they were hosting.  I gave him to my LFS because he outgrew the tank!!  They eat, are active, and seem happy??  They are now hosting some green fuzzy huge mushrooms I have had for like 4 years....  Are they just upset?  I read a bunch of articles on Black Ich and Brooklynella in your forums, and didn't  really find an answer.  They are the only fish in the tank, along with my inverts. <I think you may be right to pass on Paravortex and Brooklynella, but I would observe very closely and possibly remove to a QT if you have the means. Here is a link that may shed some light: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clwnbehfaq3.htm scroll down to "Clownfish Mouthing off to corals?-   3/19/06 " and see if this seems to apply to your case. In closing, happy fish are usually a good sign as to their overall health! -Graham T.> Thanks for your thoughts!!! Ronnie

Cyanobacteria! (And black clown-spots follow-up) 1/20/07 Hey Crew! <'Allo!> OH NO CYANO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  In my Nano Reef.  Phosphates .01, Nitrates   0....... Tank is great.  Flourishing corals.....  Any suggestions?  I do weekly 10% water changes with 4 stage RO, Tropic Marin Salt.. < http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cyanocontrolfaqs.htm > and all links. Limit light, excess nutrient, introduce a competitor and increase flow.> Thanks for the info on the black spots on my clownfish....they are OK. <That is great to hear - er, read. -Graham T.> Ronnie

Clown fish with Lymph? 1/17/07 Hey all, <Hello, Leslie. Graham T. here.> I just noticed today that the bigger of my two clown fishes has some strange things going on. It appears that it has something on his gill and fin that resemble perhaps a small piece of cotton?!?! Any idea what this could be, or better yet how I can correct this problem? < Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lymphfaqs.htm and do some searches using the google tool on WWM.> Its habits seem normal. Still swimming, eating and acting the same. I know that don't <doesn't> mean anything but just stating all the facts. Water has been tested and everything is where it should be. Would an anemone help with this? <Mmm... no. Water quality, immune system boost and vitamins can help. Not sure of a confirmed "cure" for you here, but happy fish tend not to get it.> I know there are thousands of things it could be. <I can think of only one dead-ringer with a few runners-up.> Thanks for your help. Bill <Welcome, Bill. -Graham T.> Percula clown... beh.   1/17/07 For six years, I've had three clowns together in a fish only set up.    Two of them have grown to be quite large, while the third seems to have hardly grown at all -- I'm assuming that this was the male of the three. <Mmm... or the subdominant male of the two...> Recently, I moved the smallest clown to a smaller reef  tank out of fear that he would be eaten by my oriental Sweetlips, which has grown quite large in the five years that I have had it.    <Congratulations.... IME 99.9 some percent of captive Plectorhynchines live this long... or even a year in captivity> Anyway, since the removal, the largest of the clown pair has started to develop a blotch, which I can only describe as looking like its paint is rubbing off like I can see through it-- the blotch is on the fish's white band.  I have attributed this to possible mating behavior, as the blotch could be damage from the other clown.  Most recently, this clown has started acting very odd in that it has begun to lay on its side in a way that I've only seen from dying fish, yet it will immediately pop up to eat and behave normally for the majority of the day. <Mmm, likely some submissive behavior... appeasing the alpha fish... like canines in pairs, groups> I have never seen a fish behave this way and am wondering if the removal of the third clown has prompted these two to become a mated pair, and, if this is the case, could this explain the odd behavior. <Possibly so> It is a little bothersome to see a fish lay completely on its side, but after a couple off weeks of this behavior, considering that the fish is eating normally and vigorously, I just don't know what to think.  Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, Greg Fasano <Mmm, maybe a read through others' speculations, observations on Clownfish behavior... archived on WWM. Bob Fenner> Clownfish with Strange Marks 1/16/07 Hey all, <Hi> I just noticed today that the bigger of my two clown fishes has some strange things going on. <Uh-oh> It appears that it has something on his gill and fin that resemble perhaps a small piece of cotton?!?! <Probably bacterial, slight change fungal.> Any idea what this could be, or better yet how I can correct this problem? <Appropriate antibiotic treatment in a hospital tank.> It's habits seem normal. Still swimming, eating and acting the same. I know that don't mean anything but just stating all the facts. Water has been tested and everything is where it should be.  <Numbers next time please, "should be" is too subjective.> Would an anemone help with this? <No, may cause more problems.> I know there are thousands of things it could be. Thanks for your help. Bill <Take a look through the marine diseases section and see if something fits its description.> <Chris>

Brooklynella quarantine help ...<finding FAQs>   1/11/07 hello everyone <Graham T. here.> I looked around for a long time trying to find somewhere where this question has been addressed, but am still empty handed. <ok...> I've been treating a yellow stripe maroon clown with Brooklynella for 5 days now.  I began by dipping him in a formalin 3 solution (following the instructions on the bottle) for 45 minutes. Then I placed him in a non infected quarantine.  I repeated the process twice since, each time returning him to the quarantine.  I'd say about 90 % of the patchy stuff was gone after the third dip, but a day later a little more was on his face.  I'm guessing that the parasite is still in the quarantine.  Should I have returned him to a non infected system after each dip?   <<Yes. RMF>> I hope not because that seems very problematic since I don't have multiple tanks and filters available. I'm hoping you'll tell me that there is a way to eliminate the parasite from the quarantine while the treatment is in progress. I was thinking that maybe treating the quarantine with formalin might be the answer... Thanks a lot everyone <READ: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brooklynellosisart.htm and everything you see there. Then see what you think. -Graham T.> Javier

Need your help with my sick clownfish    1/10/07 Hi, I hope you all are doing well. <Hey Aaron, JustinN with you today. I'm doing well, and I hope the same for you and yours.> I hope you can give me some advice regarding my clownfish, whom I think is sick.   <I'll surely give it a go!> I have tried searching the site but I cannot seem  to match up the symptoms. It is a Clarkii clown. I set up the tank 9 months ago, and he has been perfectly healthy until a couple weeks ago. I test weekly and the conditions are consistently at PH of 8.2, SG of 1.024, and temperature of eighty degrees and they don't cycle up and down. The ammonia and nitrites are zero, and nitrate is 10ppm or less always. The tank is fifty-five gallon with about fifty pounds of live rock. <Sounds like an excellent setup so far> The other fish in the tank are a second Clarkii clown, and a yellow tail blue damsel. The other two fish appear perfectly healthy and show no symptoms of anything and no change in behavior. <Ok> The clown who appears to be sick was always the more dominant of the two clowns. Several weeks ago I found it huddled in the lower rear corner of the tank, sort of leaning against the glass and sitting on the bottom. There were no visible injuries. I have watched it very carefully for the past several weeks while searching this site, and trying to determine what might be wrong with it.  It has no visible infection of any kind. When it swims above the bottom, which it does not do very often, it seems to swim fully upright  part of the time and the rest of the time tilted at slight angle. It does not seem to be able to swim very  fast, and when tilted it seems to be a struggle. <Sounds like a stress situation with one of its tankmates. Perhaps the other clown has become the female and is now the dominant one? There is always the possibility you're not seeing aggression that is present from the damselfish. Chrysiptera parasema can be mean little buggers in their own right, not to mention clownfish themselves are in fact damsels as well!> It does still eat, but far less than normal. Its breathing, or at least opening and closing of the mouth, seems very slow compared usual. Its colors have  not changed at all. I have not changed the fishes diet or anything else. I have not introduced anything into the tank at all.  The only other thing in there besides the fish is a dozen or so hermit crabs. <Everything sounds fine to me here, nothing jumps out at me.> At this point I am really concerned but I have no plan of action. I have a ten gallon tank I could set up as a hospital tank, but I have no idea how to treat it once I get it in there. Is there any course of action that you could recommend at this point? <My recommendation at this point in time is simply to wait and watch. If you are not seeing ill effects, and he is still eating (albeit a lesser amount), I would just observe and see if things work themselves out naturally. If things start to slide to a more definitive problem, you should see outward signs of it.> Thank you very much in advance, Aaron. <Hope I helped you, Aaron! -JustinN> Tank bred clowns   1/7/07 Hi, <Hi James. Graham T. with you this fine morn.> Hope ya'll had a good new years! <Did, thanks. Hope the same for you...> I have a bit of a mystery to solve. <Let's do this thing.> 4-5 months ago I got a pair of tank bred clownfish and both were fine for about 2 weeks, then without any (apparent) reason the smaller of the two developed rapid breathing and stopped eating... <Hmm...> at which point there was only going to be one outcome. I went back to the store and got a replacement, they both lived together happily for a month or so before the new clown stopped eating and developed rapid breathing and died soon after. <Oh, no.> Now at this point I should say that the original clown is thriving, grown a lot bigger and has really deepened in colour. <That is positive.> I had to wait until just recently before I could get my hands on another tank bred clown to try and introduce (I would really like to keep a pair - I think they look better together). <True.> Well, I put the new guy in (after QT) and he went the same route, stopped eating and rapid breathing. <How long this time, I wonder, but not really important.> The original clown never shows any aggression and settles down with the new guy fairly quickly, and I never see any of the other fish showing any aggression. <Sounds like a lonely clown...> The rest of my fish/corals are all in perfect health, which include a regal tang/flame angel/red firefish/red scooter blenny. What do you think? Am I just having a bad run of luck with these little guys. <Do a search on WWM for "clown breathing" (without the quotes) and read all the links/related articles in blue above. You'll find your answer as to the pathogen. As to the cause, I would suspect the LFS has some tainted quarters, or less than reputable wholesaler> Thanks, James. <Good luck, James -Graham T.>

Graham T: My poor little guy!  1/5/07 <Hello, Haley. Graham with you tonight.> I bought my very first clown fish three days ago <No QT?> (orange, white striped  with gorgeous flowing fins) he was so happy in the tank with my yellow tang, and   was going to introduce a partner for the clown in a few days, as when I bought him he was alone. <Aren't you considerate? Hope you mean the same species?> He spends allot of time swimming at the surface in the current  of the tank, but now stays at the top and he looks to me as if he is struggling  to keep there. <Do you mean struggling in the current? Struggling to stay afloat?> Do you think he is dying? <Ouch. How about some system specs, like system age, size, water conditions, etc.> Hayley. <Graham T.>

Tomato Clown ... illness    1/3/07 We've had our clown for over a year now.  In the last day or two we noticed he was bloated (looking) and having this cottony white mucus stuff coming out from his belly area. I've read a lot of your FAQs but still am not positive on what this is or could be. <...? Water quality... testing? History? Nutrition? Tankmates?> Should I remove him from the main tank? (60 gallon) Do you think he will survive? Thanks-Kellie <... not enough information presented here to give any indication. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/clndisfaqs.htm And soon. Bob Fenner>

2 dead clownfish in 2 weeks   12/11/06 Hi everyone at WWM <Hey Joe, where you goin, with that gun in your hand? Sorry, couldn't resist, feeling a bit goofy today... JustinN with you today!> I have a 55 gallon reef tank that is about 2 years old. <Ok> I have (had) 2 false Percs (first fish i had, one just died when i came home today), tomato clown died last week), yellow tank <tang>, flame angel, blue tang, lawnmower blenny, orange spotted goby, six-line wrasse, cleaner shrimp, and a sand shifter <sifter> which arms seem to be shrinking which is another problem. <Well, Joe.. For starters, you are incredibly over/mis-stocked in this tank. Mixing clown species is typically not recommended, and certainly not in as small a tank as yours. Tangs also should be out, as even the smaller yellow tang will not live a comfortable, complete life in a 55 gallon tank (your blue tang can get up to 12 inches!). With only one species of clown, and no tangs, your current stocking list would be "at max" in my personal opinion.> My tank seems to be going downhill you could say with a bunch of problems. A couple months ago my sebae anemone died, my clam died, but I think I lacked feeding because I was occupied with starting college. <Sorry for your losses> Now last week I came home to my tomato clownfish dying all torn up. I noticed as he floated around the lawnmower blenny would attack him. <Mmm, likely just opportunistic behavior> He died and I couldn't figure out why. Now today I came home to my female perc dying the same way. I'm upset about this fish because not only was it my first, but it is paired with another clownfish in my green starpolyps. I have no idea why these fish <fishes> are just dying. I also have no clue why my starfish seems to be shrinking as well as my xenia. It was pulsing and spreading like crazy in the tank. Recently it is shrinking and not pulsing anymore. My friend neglected his tank and i salvaged a frogspawn and it is bleached, but coming back to life. I just don't know why these problems are occurring. thanks, Joe <You don't mention what corals you have competing with the Xenia, nor any specifics on water chemistry, or what your make-up water consists of. The sand sifting starfish may simply be suffering from too small, and too immature, of a sandbed to support its life. These creatures can very easily decimate a sandbed of its microfauna. Likewise, the Xenia may just be suffering from an allelopathic battle with other corals in your tank. It is also recognized that occasionally Xeniid colonies 'wax and wane' from time to time. My recommendation: Read about your stock, both coral and fishes. Rethink, re-plan, restock is the best course of action. Hope this helps! -JustinN> Re: 2 dead clownfish in 2 weeks   12/11/06 <Hey again, Joe. JustinN here.> Sorry for all of the misspellings, haha. <Is ok, was not the worst I've dealt with *grin*> Well I have a huge colony of green stars polyps and they are taking over everything. I would like to stop them from spreading, but I can't. <Sure you can: removal! *grin* Many people consider green star polyps to be a weed of the coral world due to this proficient growth> I also have a huge stalk of Capnella sp. and a small type of soft coral like the Capnella just only greenish. Maybe the Capnella is competing with the xenia for nutrients. <Mmm, is not nutrients they would be competing for, is territorial space they are (chemically) battling for, with the other corals. Allelopathy is the invisible chemical war that is automatically waged when corals are put in close proximity to one another, trying to out-compete the other chemically for dominance on the reef.> I do occasionally put in Cyclop-eeze for the corals. I'm going to go out and get the coral-vital because that always seemed to work for me. As far as stocking goes with my tank, I would have to agree with you that I am at the max and I don't plan on putting anymore fish in this tank then I originally had. Would it be ok to replace the one clownfish I lost today to give the lonely one a mate. <I cannot recommend this, not without removal of the second clown species> I blue tang I bought from live aquaria because it was on sale and it is my favorite fish. It was so tiny when I bought it, but now it is about 4 inches and I know i will have to pass him up when he gets bigger unfortunately. <Mmm, may be stunted physically already, and is certainly already psychologically overcrowded, likely not helping your fish life stability.> Is  it a good idea to replenish the sand bed every now and then with new sand? <Certainly, helps to renew missing earth elements that dissolve into the water column over time.> Thanks for everything Joe <No problems, Joe. Do consider a larger home for your tangs soon, you might see major changes in your fishes behavioral patterns you wouldn't expect... -JustinN> Re: 2 dead clownfish in 2 weeks   12/11/06 <Hey again, Joe, JustinN Again> I actually found a 125 on the side of the road someone was throwing away and I grabbed and brought it home. I tested it for leaks for about 4 days and everything was fine. The only problem is my mom won't let me set it up because I had my 55 gallon leak and i had to replace part of the ceiling below. Big mess. Maybe eventually I'll be able to set it up. <Well, Joe, simply put, if you're not able to get it setup soon, I simply cannot recommend the keeping of the tangs in the 55 gallon. Sorry to be a wet blanket! -JustinN> Bloated Clownfish, beh.    12/10/06 Hi my name is Michael, <Hi there, mine is Bob> I noticed today that my female True Percula Clownfish was acting strange. She is swimming very fast back and forth around her anemone and I noticed that her stomach (in the area right below the fin) is VERY bloated. I am worried and was wondering if you could tell me what this could possibly be. <Reads like some reproductive behavior...> All I can think of is she is possibly pregnant, she ate bad food and got an infection, or something else. <This about sums up the most plausible possibilities> Also, if you know it is something bad, is there anything I can do to make her get better? <Epsom Salt bath is probably your best route to try here. Please use the search tool on WWM... for this and "Clownfish Disease"... read the cached versions... Bob Fenner> Thanks for your time and any help you can give me, Michael.

Clownfish disease?   12/10/06   Hi, thanks for the great site! I started a marine aquarium intended for <sic> fish<es>, some invertebrates and live rocks a couple months ago. The tank has been running without fish for about a month and then snails and hermit crabs were added, followed by a fish algae blenny. A month later, a clownfish and a damsel were added. <Mmm, Clowns are Damsels... am quite picky this morn> About a week after the addition of the clownfish, the clownfish started to develop white spots over the body, and mucus-like skin secretion was formed, and eventually led to death. However, the blenny and the damsel did not seem to be infected with similar disease (yet). I do not think that this is ich. After searching the database in WetWebMedia, it seems that the disease that I observed in the clownfish is a result from either a protozoa or a fungus skin infection. <Mmm, not so sure here... There are "general conditions" that might well lead to the observed symptoms, loss. Was this a wild-collected specimen? Only microscopic examination could yield a definitive identification here> The questions that I have are:      I found some information about 'clownfish disease' in your website, although I      personally do not think likewise, is it possible that the disease that I witnessed here is specific to clownfish host? <Is possible, yes> What is, specifically, 'clownfish disease'? <Is a condition caused by the presence of the protozoan Brooklynella> Is it      specific to Brooklynella? <Yes>    I have to transfer the blenny and the damsel for treatment. I let them 'bathed' in pH'd and buffered freshwater supplemented with malachite green and formalin for 20 min.s and return them to full strength saltwater for quarantine. Do I need to repeat the freshwater dip/ formalin/malachite green bath daily? <Mmm, I would not...> Or do you recommend lowering the salinity in the quarantine tank for hyposaline treatment? <I do not>   Thank you.      Leo <Welcome. I'd like to make something more in the way of an overall stmt. to you (for my satisfaction)... or refer you to a search on WWM re this fish-groups (Amphiprionine) health, the Protozoan (oh, I recently moved all pertinent FAQs to a new/separate FAQs file: Here's the article: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brooklynellosisart.htm with the FAQs and other related materials linked above and in-text. Bob Fenner> White blotchy spots on my clownfish, why?   12/10/06 Hi,   My common clownfish has white, mucus-like, spot, patchy things on him.  I have a pair and the larger had this once and it went away.  The smaller of the two has it continually. <Mmm...>   I gave him a freshwater dip tonight and it seems to have improved him slightly.  First off, what the heck is on my fish? <Only way to tell definitively is through microscopic examination. There are a few Protozoan possibilities... but/and could be "just" a reaction syndrome to something in the water/tank...> Second, i had a bicolor blenny that just died and had the same kind of blotches. <Oh... a clue?> Help!  I don't want to lose another fish because the rest of my aquarium is fine.  My levels are all correct.  I can't seem to figure out the problem, I need some help from the experts.  Thanks   Jon <Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clndisfaqs.htm and the linked files at top. Bob Fenner> Clownfish... env. dis? Reading...  12/5/06 Hi. Chad here. I was emailing because I have a problem with two Clownfish that I have in my 75 gallon aquarium. One of the first fish I put in my tank was a Clarkii Clownfish. It looked great at the store so I bought it. About 3 weeks after the purchase, its eye became swollen. It didn't look normal to me so I called the fish store and asked them. They said that it probably scratched up against a rock. <A definite possibility, cause> They also recommended medications that I should put in the tank. <Mmm...> I was told it would probably cure whatever was wrong with the clownfish. It looks a little better today, but is still very noticeable. Just recently, I bought two True Percula Clownfish from that same fish store. <Are these wild-collected specimens? Or tank bred and reared? I take it... you've read re the difference...> Well, one of the True Perculas looks like it is getting a swollen eye also. I am very concerned about this. Is it a disease? <What is disease? My working definition is "anything different than a normal or healthy condition"...> What should I do to help? I would attach a photo but I don't have a very good camera, it doesn't take pictures very clearly. I really want to do something to help but I don't know what exactly it is. Please help. <Please read: http://wetwebmedia.com/clndisfaqs.htm and the linked files above... You don't provide sufficient information to render any specific advice here... but I would NOT put "medication" in your/a main/display system... Bob Fenner>  

Sick Clownfish   11/30/06 Hello, <Hey Jamison, JustinN with you this morning> I have a tank raised Ocellaris clownfish that has bulging eyes, is extremely lethargic, is not eating, is breathing rapidly, has frayed pectoral fins and has an "injury" to its forehead. Its forehead looks like it is wasting away. I have attached a picture to show you. <Mmm, yes I see this... doesn't look good> When I purchased the clownfish it was fine, eating well, always exploring and responsive to me. Now, it lays on the sand. Every once in a while, it will swim around and sometimes it will dart around the tank for no apparent reason. <Not good> I have another clownfish (purchased at the same time and had the same demeanor as the sick clownfish - curious and eating well). Now, this clownfish is showing signs of "damage" around its forehead, but not to the degree of the first clownfish. <Equally not good, sounds at least environmental, if not contagious> This clownfish is still responsive and eating. (I do not have a hospital tank L) <No better time than now, it will be prudent to have one for treatment of these fishes> They used to fight when I purchased them about three months ago, but now they don't. <This is natural> There are no caves, shells or open filter tubes to get their heads stuck. I do not know what is going on. <Am I to understand that there is nowhere for these fishes to hide?> Tank parameters: SG is 1.023,  pH is 8.4, ammonia is 0, nitrite is 0 and nitrate is 15. I have performed two 20% water changes over the past few days to bring the nitrate down. <I would slowly bring your salinity up to NSW levels (1.025), but that is a separate issue from your current ailment.> Any help would be greatly appreciated! Jamison <Well, Jamison, your current situation should really outline to you the dire importance of quarantine procedures and quarters. Quarantine isn't just a procedure for sound mind, its an aide for your aquatic charges to let them harden after the rigors of shipping. That said, I don't know that I would prescribe any treatment beyond quarantine, vitamin supplements added to normal foods, and a wait-and-see attitude. The damage looks like physical trauma to me. Keeping the water quality high and hoping for the best would be my course of action here. Do continue the water changes until those nitrates come down some more. Hope this helps you! -JustinN>

Urgent:  poor clownfish  11/26/06   Hey WWM Crew   I have a Amphiprion ocellaris that does not look good at all. <Agreed... am going ahead and responding to this now, rather than waiting for others here to respond> He is in a 10 gallon quarantine tank right now with two rocks, <... is there a treatment present?> a whisper filter, a heater, and no substrate.  The parameters are ammonia at 0, nitrite at 0, nitrate at 0, and pH at 8.1.  Should I add an air stone? <Some source of aeration, circulation, biological filtration, yes>   I am not sure what disease it has. <I am... almost assuredly this is Cryptocaryon irritans> He has these whitish-yellow spots.  I do not think it is Ick because he has not scratched at all, <Not always a prominent symptom> but it could be.  There is no other signs of disease except that he is lethargic.  There is no fin tears. He is still interesting and eating, but doesn't look good at all still has full color just a ton of spots.  I have attached pictures please tell me what you think is wrong and what I should do to solve this problem.  Thanks <... much to state, for you to read... and quickly... This fish may well die w/in a day... any other fishes that have been in contact with it, its systems as well... Read re Crypt, Clownfish Disease: http://wetwebmedia.com/clndisfaqs.htm NOW! You would very likely be better/best off here using a pH adjusted FW bath with Formalin to "knock off" the majority of the pathogen population here... but need to understand (too much to relate here) to do re sterilizing the present Q system, ongoing treatment... Read my friend... and act... soon. Bob Fenner>
Re: Urgent:  poor clownfish, dips/baths, copper use      11/27/06 Thank you for your response.  I gave him a freshwater dip pH adjusted with formalin for 6 minutes because I thought he was acting weird.  In the process of the dip he jumped out of the water which was about a 6 inch jump.  He appears to lost a few scales.  Is it normal for fish to lay on the bottom, and shoot up to the top and keep on doing those behavior in a fresh water dip? <Ah, yes... need to amend our dip/bath articles S.O.P. pieces with a reminder to cover such procedures> I decided to use copper.  Do clown fish have any special requirements for copper?   Thanks <Yes... thank you for this reminder as well. Best by far to use a chelated variety of copper (and corresponding test kit) and keep the dosage/concentration on the lower end of physiological dosage (about 0.20 ppm free cupric ion equivalent). Bob Fenner>

Become a Sponsor Features:
Daily FAQs FW Daily FAQs SW Pix of the Day FW Pix of the Day New On WWM
Helpful Links Hobbyist Forum Calendars Admin Index Cover Images
Featured Sponsors: