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FAQs about the Diseases of Clownfishes 17
Related FAQs: Clownfish Disease 1,
Diseases of Clownfishes 2, Diseases
of Clownfishes 3, Clownfish Disease
4, Clownfish Disease 5,
Clownfish Disease 6, Clownfish
Disease 7, Clownfish Disease 8,
Clownfish Disease 9, Clownfish
Disease 10, Clownfish Disease 11,
Clownfish Disease 12, Clownfish
Disease 13, Clownfish Disease 14,
Clownfish Disease 15, Clownfish
Disease 16, Clownfish Disease 18,
Clownfish Disease 19, Clownfish
Disease 20, & FAQs on Clownfish Disease By:
Environmental Stress, Nutrition,
Social/Behavioral/Territoriality,
Trauma/Mechanical Injury, & Pathogens:
Lymphocystis, Infectious Disease
(Bacteria, Fungi...), Protozoans:
Cryptocaryon/Ich, Amyloodinium/Velvet,
Brooklynella (see article below), &
Mysteries/Anomalous Losses, Cure,
Success Stories, & Clownfishes in General,
Clownfish Identification, Clownfish
Selection, Clownfish Compatibility,
Clownfish Behavior, Clownfish Systems,
Clownfish Feeding, Clownfishes and
Anemones, Breeding
Clowns, Related Articles:
Clownfish Disease, Clownfishes,
Maroon Clowns, Marine Disease, Brooklynellosis, | 
Other, fast moving fishes being present may over-stress your clowns
if the system is too small. Halichoeres
pictus (Steindachner 1867), the Rainbow
Wrasse.
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Black patches on clownfish pair 9/20/07 Hi - it's a pleasure
to rediscover this site. <Welcome back> I have a pair of
percula clownfish who have developed black patches during the past
year. They show no symptoms of distress. Indeed, for a long time I
assumed that this was just a pigment issue (the black areas on the
female have gradually expanded over the years). <Some such marks
come and go on Amphiprionines> Now, after a plumbing problem two
weeks ago, emptying the main tank and housing my four fish in three
small tanks during reconstruction, I have been looking more closely.
I have searched your site and elsewhere on the web but have found
nothing specific. One message mentioned black patches but it was not
followed up. Any ideas? <From your pic, these look like random
spots of melanization... I don't think they're pathogenic, nor do I
know a means of "treating", eliminating them> The clowns are now
in an AquaPod (24g) with their two Entacmaea quadricolor anemones
(one that cloned) <Yikes... these anemones need much more room
than this> and plenty of tiny worms and brittle stars. The old
system was a 125g with an ecosystem type sump and about 100 pounds
of live rock. Ammonia and nitrates have long been undetectable but
nitrates were getting high in that tank. In six years, there was
no disease in that tank, which was always underpopulated (five small
fish, a couple of soft corals, zoanthids, etc.). Everybody either
came with the rock or was quarantined before going in. The critters
that were in the tank at the beginning are all still there, nobody
has been added but some snails about three years ago. Any ideas?
<Could be that the Bubble tips are somehow stressing the Clowns...>
And thanks again for your superb efforts. Malcolm <Thank you
for your kind words and sharing. Bob Fenner> | 
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Clown fish problem ID - please help. Growth on a Clown 9/20/07
Hello Crew, <Hi> I am very new to the hobby - only 7 weeks into it
so far. I've been reading the WWM quite a bit in the past week - lots of
great information, thank you! Unfortunately I've discovered it a bit too
late - several of my purchases/decisions weren't too great :( <You
are not alone here I assure you.> Tank parameters: RedSea Max
Nano, 34g, 3-3.5" Aragalive Live Sand bed, 31 lb of live rock
Temperature: 80 F SG: 1.025 (refractometer-measured) pH - 8.0
Alkalinity - 2.4 Meq/l Calcium - 440 Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate,
phosphate - undetectable 15% water change weekly <Sounds nice.>
I set it up, let it cycle for about 3 weeks until
ammonia/nitrite/nitrate went to 0, added snails (6 Astrea, 6 Trochus, 3
Cerith) and hermits (8 blue-legged). My only loss so far was one Astrea
- I found one hermit wearing his shell one day. <Common end for many
snails in captivity.> About 10 days ago I've purchased my first fish
- two clowns (A. Ocellaris, I believe) from the LFS. Not understanding
the virtues of the QT at the time, I've added them in right after
acclimating. <Learned this lesson I bet.> About 5 days later I've
noticed whitish spots on both. But time went on (10 days now) and the
only change is that spots grew and became larger, my understanding is
that the ich would've gone though its cycle by now. <Yes, doubtful
Ich is the culprit here.> Can you please help ID the problem and
recommend treatment? I am attaching pictures - hopefully they're large
enough. <Tough to say, my first guess would be Lymphocystis, check
out here and see if you think it fits.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lymphfaqs.htm .> Everyone is doing great
so far - swimming, eating with gusto and colors seem ok. Water seems
fine - I am seeing a wide variety of tiny tube worms - they are open all
the way and seem to be enjoying themselves. <The variety of life in
an aquarium is staggering.> Please help! Thank you! <Might
want to try a cleaner shrimp here, although often clowns do not actually
let the shrimp clean them.> <Chris> | 
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True Percula question, hlth. mostly 8/23/07 Hi!
Thanks for all the great info on your site, It has helped me alot <No
such word> in my experience with Reefing! <Ah, good> Here is my
situation, I recently bought a pair of mated true percula clowns. I had
initially placed these fish on hold in the LFS due to my leaving town
and that I had no room for a QT tank. So they spent a week there in the
LFS system (they claim to run a low level of copper to treat ich).
<Mmm, such "low levels" (less than a constant physiological dose...
let's say under 0.15 ppm free cupric ion or equivalent) do naught but
poison livestock> So I thought this was a preventative measure.
<Ah, no... only serve/s to weaken hosts... but does keep more fishes
alive to sell, pass on their parasites...> I then came in to pick up
the clowns and the male would not eat very well. So they said they would
treat them for 5 days with an antibiotic dip. <? No.> Treatment
over, I watched them both eat like pigs, so I brought them home and now
they are happy in my tank.... Here is my question, I have noticed on
the male, that a couple of his fins, have streaks of missing color, and
this is new. I do occasionally notice the female nipping at the male,
but I don't want to miss read an illness and lose a nice pair of clowns.
Am I missing something? <Doesn't seem like it, no> There are no
spots on the clowns, no heavy breathing, eating well. All parameters are
within normal limits (pH, temp, ammonia, Nitrite, nitrate, Ca, and Alk).
They are in a 20H tank with approx 20 lbs of LR and a 20L sump. <Wild
Percula Clowns need more room than this... and frequently have
"residual" health issues as you relate> Thanks again for all the
help! Seth <Please re-read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/part2.htm the bottom of the
page... Bob Fenner>
Sick Clownfish? 8/22/07 Hi Crew, <Annie> Just a
quick but urgent question for you tonight. One of my ocellaris of 6
years developed two white spots: one just behind the first white bar and
the other just behind the second white bar. That was two days ago.
Today/this morning, the white "spots" weren't there but I noticed that
area turned a fuzzy whitish and has migrated over the top/back of the
ocellaris as well as toward the middle area. I've gone thru some of your
FAQ and it's not ich. <Agreed... likely equivalent to an "owee" or
pimple in humans...> Please advise as to whether I should remove it
to a quarantine tank and treat immediately and with what? <I would
spiff up the system where it is... water change, add carbon, clean the
skimmer... and leave the animal where it is> My tank params as
follows: 60 gal, SG 1.025, pH 8.0, temp 76.5 - 78.5 degrees, KH
11.0, Alk. 4.0. I have a skimmer going 27/7. Thank you for your help.
Annie <Welcome. BobF>
Black Clownfish has "mouth rot"? 8/22/07 I posted this on
the forum but can't post the pictures there. <... on WWF?
Unusual> I have two black clownfish in our 120 gal reef aquarium.
Other fish we have are firefish, blue tang, coral beauty, royal
Gramma, Mandarin dragonet, a purple filefish (I don't remember what
its called.) a bunch of turbo snails, an Anenome (I think its a
Sebae) See pictures. <Mmm, read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm>
We just had our water professionally tested and its all fine. We
even tested our calcium levels, which are perfect. <This
subjective evaluation means nothing to me...> My problem is this:
one of my clownfish's lips appear to be rotting off. Its mouth is
always open and it can't feed. It pretty much always stays near the
Anenome, (which the clownfish just discovered two days ago) The
other one seems to be protecting it from the other fish, but we've
never seen any other fish attack it. We've had the fish for only two
weeks, they are tank raised. <Mmmm> I thought that maybe the
clownfish are fighting for dominance, because they are very close in
size, about 2", but the one seems to be protecting the injured one.
<... I wonder.> I took some pictures, but I don't know how well
they turned out being at the injured fish stays close to the
Anenome, which is in the back of the tank. I didn't know how to make
them smaller, but they are in jpg format. Any advice would be
appreciated on this matter. <Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm and the linked files
above. Bob Fenner> Re:
Black Clownfish has "mouth rot"? 9/1/07 Thank you for
your answer, but I had already read both of those articles prior to
asking this question, and neither had an answer to my dilemma.
It's been a few days and although my second clown died (not the one
with the mouth rot) the one with the mouth rot has healed and is
doing fine. I've come to my own conclusion that because they were
both so large and of similar size, they were fighting for dominance
(and who would in the end, become female) and the dominant one
killed the other one. <Could be> We've ordered 4 smaller false
Percs to add to the tank. The clownfish is ecstatic in her Anenome
and wouldn't remove it for the world. Thanks again.
<Welcome... In future, I strongly encourage you to avoid
wild-collected Amphiprionines... the captive-produced ones are much
hardier, and easy-going. Bob Fenner> |
Looks like a genetic deformity to RMF.
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Clown Fish disease URGENT 8/6/07 HI BOB: Thanks again for
all your help. I have reviewed all your pages <Wowzah!> and want
to be sure I am treating my clownfish correctly. I have 2 black clown
fish in my 55 gallon tank. <Wild-collected? Quarantined? Treated how
thus far?> I also have 2 Anthias, 5 snails, 12 hermits, live rock and
a live sand bed and several corals. My water is good (ph 8.1, ammonia O,
nitrates 0, alk 9.0, phosphates 0). I am running a chiller that keeps
the temp stable at around 78 degrees. My clownfish have each developed
small (less than 1mm) white patches on the front of their dorsal fin and
the underlying tissue seems to disappearing. One of them has also
developed a very small white patch on its underbelly. Behaviourally,
they seem as energetic as ever and seem to be eating fine. They have had
the spots for about one week. It does not look to me like Ich, the white
is not in specks and is not all over the fish, just these distinct
areas. In addition to your site, I visited the national fish pharmacy
site and based on both, was wondering if this could be some type of fin
rot? <?... is a symptom... not a cause... Like your having a
"cough"... many probable etiologies> I have set up a hospital tank
following your guidelines and am hoping you could advise me as to
treatment? NFP has a product called Fungus Pro I was thinking of using
-do you have any other suggestions? <Yes, but all are posted> I
really like these little guys and I don't want to lose them. Please can
you help? Much appreciated... BTW, my anthias do not seem to be at
all infected. Thanks again - Lindsey. <Please (re) read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm and the linked files above
and in place where you lead yourself. Bob Fenner>
Clown Fish disease URGENT Part 2 8/6/07 Hi Bob: I have been
scanning WWM all day for help with the problem I emailed you about
earlier - namely, the fact that I am incapable of identifying what is
causing the spotting/rotting on my 2 black clowns. There are many LFS
here in Los Angeles (but I would love to have a local
recommendation/endorsement, if you have one) so I visited the one that
has consistently given me the least inaccurate advice. They advised a
combination of Mardel's Coppersafe and Mardel's Maracyn-Two, so I have
started on that program. I still need to get a copper test kit, but the
store had closed by the time I remembered, so I'll pick one up tomorrow,
but I did follow the directions pretty slavishly. <Good> My
hospital tank is a 12 gallon Eclipse (with the carbon removed from the
filter) and the clowns seem fine in there and are active and eating. In
the stark light of the empty tank, I can clearly see how their dorsals
have been eaten away where the white spots were, and there is another
white spot I hadn't noticed previously on one of the fish's side fins. A
couple of things I failed to mention in my last post: I feed them twice
daily with frozen mysis and some brine shrimp, as well as a product
called arcti-pods from Reef Nutrition. Also, before I put the chiller on
the tank, there was a period of about one week where the tank temp
exceeded 84 degrees. There were no wild fluctuations, because it didn't
cool off much at night, but the tank was too hot for the corals so I put
a chiller on it. I didn't quarantine the fish and am always always
ALWAYS going to quarantine in future - they had been in the main tank
for one month without any problems. So some questions? - am I on the
right track with the Coppersafe/Maracyn? <Is one of a series of
"shotgun" approaches... But a good one... and w/o microscopic exam....>
- how long do I keep them in the QT? <Not quarantine, but trtmt.
now... Depending on what you think you may be treating for, two
weeks...> - the Coppersafe says it is a one time treatment,
<Really?> but do I add more with water changes? <Please... see WWM
re copper use... http://wetwebmedia.com/curatuse.htm and the linked
files above> or do I start to take it out of the water with carbon,
and, if so, when? I have read tons and tons of stuff, but it is still
confusing to a beginner - and since you have denied me my Mandarin (heh
heh) I must be able to hang on to my clowns. Please help!!!! Thanks
so much. BTW -Is there a donation or something I can make? It seems that
you give a lot of great advice for free, and if you have a charity or
cause I would love to donate in appreciation. Lindsey. <Our Amazon
"begging bowl" is at the bottom of each page. RMF>
Percula Clown with Lip Deterioration, great pix... 8/4/07
My Percula has been experiencing some trouble with his bottom lip.
He was the first fish put into a new reef tank two weeks ago. The
tank was set up and the live rock cycled before putting him in:
Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates - all 0. These are currently at the same
levels, as well as Specific Gravity - 1.024 and pH 8.1-8.2. When I
brought him home from the store I noticed a small white spot on his
bottom lip after putting him into the tank, it may have been there
before but this was the first time I noticed it. The white spot
enlarged over the next few days and then seemed to get smaller over
the next week. I thought he was getting better, but yesterday I
noticed that it was getting worse again. Now it seems that his
bottom lip has deteriorated somewhat. I have attached two photos
that were taken today. He only eats live or frozen brine and while
seeming to show interest, he is somewhat finicky about it. He did
not eat more than about 4 shrimp each day both yesterday and today.
He sometimes has stringy feces as well. I have become very attached
to this fish and would like to do anything possible to save him.
Thank you for your time and attention, Mark <Does look like
an expanding erosive area... perhaps bacterially mediated... though
it could be the expression of an idiopathic tumour... Please read
here re: http://wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm and the linked
files above where you lead yourself. I might try applying a poultice
of a Furan compound here, or an immersion bath of the same at
concentration... If the fish is eating still there are specific
recommendations posted... Bob Fenner> | 
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Spitting clownfish... fdg., hlth. 7/31/07 Dear WWM
Crew, <Shannon> Well, I started my first marine tank about 8 weeks
ago, after reading everything on the subject I could lay eyes on. The
tank has cycled, with ammonia, nitrites, and nitrate all back down to 0,
and my SG at 1.024. I figured I was ready for my first fish. I bought a
percula clown fish on 7/14/07. To date, the fish hasn't eaten. I've
tried frozen mysis shrimp, live bloodworms, Cyclop-Eeze, and Nori on a
clip. I've also tried all of those plus fresh garlic juice, and all of
those plus something called Entice. Nada. <Mmm, not good... Was this
a wild-collected specimen?> When the clown's feces was white and
stringy and she still wasn't eating at the end 9 days, I guessed
internal parasites based on your FAQs. <Possibly> I put her in a
QT dosed with General Cure. <Mmmm, "GENERAL CURE contains 125 mg
Metronidazole, 13 mg Copper Sulfate, and 8 mg Trichlorofon." Is VERY
general and quite toxic.> Your FAQ recommends Hex-out, <Just
Metronidazole...> but I couldn't find that anywhere. After a cycle of
the General Cure, no more white poop, but she still won't eat. <May
be off-feed due to the effects of the copper, organophosphate...>
She'll suck up mysis shrimp or Cyclop-Eeze, but she'll immediately spit
them back out. She'll chase down the same mysis shrimp over and over
trying to eat it, but each time she sucks it up, she spits it out
immediately after. Help! It's got to be a terribly bad sign if my first
fish dies. What do I do? Does she need dentures? Pureed shrimp? A straw?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Shannon <Mmm,
the easiest, most likely chance for improvement here overall is to
suggest you get, place a piece/quantity of cured live rock... to improve
water quality, add ready food items. Do please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm And the linked files above.
Bob Fenner>
Nano Tank. On The Watch
for Illness... – 07/03/07 Hello again, <Hi there! Scott
F. with you today!> Here's an update..... I went away this past
weekend, and during that time there was a power loss, and my fish went
w/o filter, heater, skimmer, power head for about 4-5 hours time.
<Why is it that these disasters only occur when we aren't home?> I'd
say the tank went down to about 74 degrees. Obviously this is
stressful... Luckily, my friend was there to assist my fish, and fixed
the electrical problem. <Can't put a price on friends, huh?> That
was Saturday. On Monday morning, I came back and fixed the skimmer (the
friend who was still in town is only familiar w/ freshwater)... My
question is this. All my fish and inverts are fine, healthy, and eating
great except for one of my clowns. He swims toward the top of the tank,
almost on his side. Breathing and fin movement seem normal. (Except that
he's on his side, almost) (I've been watching him closely)... From time
to time, it almost looks like he's trying to eat something on the
surface but can't really do it. His buddy sticks closely by him and
doesn't bother him at all. He typically stays in one exact location
for a few hours, then slowly moves to another location. I know he's a
new fish, relatively speaking. I have been reading and can't really
find the symptoms out. If I saw white feces, (I'm not sure this was
the case) In any event, it seems as if it was white, there may be a
bacterial infection, correct? <Not always. If the fish is not eating,
there are lots of possibilities. I'd keep sharp and for anything
resembling a symptom of a stress-related illness (parasitic or
otherwise. Otherwise, I'd keep trying to get the fish to eat. Monitor
water quality, etc. to assure that no additional stressors arise.> If
it turns out there was no white feces, what should I do? Thank you again
for time and help! Eric <Man...if you would have asked me 10 years
ago if I was gonna be writing about fish poop in front of 10,000 people
a day, I would have thought you were nuts...Guess it's just all in a
day's work here at WWM! Shows how much life changes, huh?? Seriously, I
would not be overly concerned...yet. I'm more concerned with getting the
fish to eat again. Stay on top of things, and be prepared to take
actions if necessary. Feel free to let me know if you have any more
questions! Regards, Scott F.>
Re: On The Watch For Illness-
Part 2 – 07/03/07 I definitely didn't suspect such a quick
response, but thanks! <Glad to help!> And I was thinking the same
thing, why do these things happen when I'm gone? <Someone's idea of a
joke against us fish nerds!> And yes, friends are extremely helpful.
After writing last night I watched my fish more extensively, did some
more research, and found that he is now breathing rapidly (I read on the
site that more than 60 times per minute is rapid... well, it's
definitely more than that. More than 1 breath per second. I'd say
about 1.5 er so, not quite 2... but it's sort of hard to gauge.
<Hmmm...> Also, his fins are somewhat slower in movement than the
other clown. I read over the clown fish disease section and he isn't
showing any signs or anything from the other possible diseases/stresses.
The one good (great) sign is that when I fed the rest of the fish some
Mysis shrimp last night, he (momentarily) came back and started to swim
a bit faster and eat, (90% sure he was actually eating, not just biting
and spitting out) only to retreat to the top of the tank when done, and
show the same symptoms. So, my question is this: does this change
your recommendations? Thanks again, Eric <Well, Eric, the
continuous rapid breathing is a cause for concern, and can point to
several possible problems, ranging from environmental (ie; metabolic
poisoning, etc.) to parasitic diseases, such as Amyloodinium,
Brooklynella, etc. If the other fishes are not affected, and assuming
you're getting no detectible ammonia or nitrite in your water tests, I'd
be inclined to rule out an environmental issue for now. Even though the
fish may not be demonstrating the other "classic" symptoms of he
aforementioned parasitic diseases, I would consider them a serious
possibility. Usually, thick, whitish mucous and the fish "gaping" are
signs of Brooklynella...It's more common in wild-caught Clownfish these
days, but still a possibility. Amyloodinium ("Velvet"), has similar
symptoms in terms of loss of appetite, lethargic behavior, and rapid
respiration. Eventually, very fine spots may show on the fish (although
sometimes not) as the protozoa that cause the disease feed by liquefying
parts of the fish (I know, sounds gross- it is) .Often, the first
stop for these despicable protozoa is the fish's gills, which can
account for the rapid respiration. You will eventually see "blemishes"
on the fish's skin, and it may "scratch" itself on objects in the
aquarium in an effort to remove the irritant. Many times, however, this
disease can kill fishes before these other outward signs manifest. Rapid
intervention is necessary. One good thing is that your fish is still
eating. I would remove this fish to a separate aquarium with water from
the display for further observation and possible treatment. If these
symptoms do not subside fairly quickly (like within hours), I'd operate
under the assumption that you may be dealing with Amyloodinium. Note
that I did say "assumption"...you need to verify this to the best of
your ability with the resources here on WWM and elsewhere. It's a very
deadly disease, so once you're convinced that you're dealing with it,
action is necessary. You can start with freshwater dips for 3-5 minutes
duration, which may or may not be effective, but could cause some of the
trophonts (if present on the fish) to drop off in a response to some
osmotic shock. Next, a course of treatment with copper sulphate (a brand
such as Copper Safe is good) should be undertaken. Copper can be harsh,
but it works for me. Follow the manufacturer's recommendation to the
letter when using this, or any medication, never treat in the display
aquarium, and test for copper to assure that you are achieving a proper
therapeutic dose. Copper is not everyone's favorite (some prefer
Formalin-based products), but it has worked for me in the past and I
would use it again. There is always some risk in treating a fish when
you're not 100% certain what the disease is, and it's tough to diagnose
a fish without being there to see with one's own eyes, so I'm giving you
my best guess based on what I hear so far. You have to confirm this for
yourself, and sometimes a bit of a guess is necessary. You need to
prepare yourself for the possibility that you might lose the fish.
However, if you intervene rapidly, and are correct in your "diagnosis",
this disease can be defeated. Unfortunately, because this disease is
parasitic in nature, there is the possibility that it is in your display
tank, and may affect other fishes in there. Observe the fishes in the
display aquarium carefully and prepare to take further action, if
necessary. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Clownfish ? Lumenal
parasite? - 06/27/07 Hello, <Hi there!> We have a
salt water tank that was given to us. It included one clownfish and one
blue damsel. We do weekly water changes and test the water. The tank has
been doing very well. It has been here for several months. We are new to
aquariums. A few weeks ago we added a second clownfish. The second
clownfish didn't eat much which we attributed to the change. But then it
started to have a long white string hanging from its backend and stopped
eating all together. It also sits on the bottom in the back hiding
behind a rock. <The long white fecal material could mean nothing...>
I did research your site, excellent site by the way, and it seems a
lumen parasite is the most probable. <Possible> On the advice of a
pet store we were already treating with Clout (hydroxyethyl &
nitromidazole) for 4 days. We did 1 tab/1 liter of water for 20 minutes
and then 1 tab/1 gal of water for 2 days and then a 50% water change and
repeated the process for a total of 4 days. (In a quarantine tank) No
change. <Mmmm> A week later we notice our original clownfish
doing the same thing. It starts with a change in breathing then no
eating and the white string. The breathing is the mouth opens and closes
all the time. <Well... I would try a one-time use of
Flagyl/Metronidazole... and a follow-up treatment regimen with an
anthelminthic... Likely Prazi/quantel... See WWM re dosages, protocol>
A week after our original clownfish started the blue damsel started with
the change in breathing and not eating. No white string yet. It
seems that the second clown fish had this and passed it on to the
others. What is it and how do we treat it? <Perhaps a
protozoan... could be a worm of some sort...> We have separated both
clownfish. Is it also contagious to star fish, etc.? <Could be>
We have several polyps, feather dusters, etc. in the tank as well.
Thank you for your help, Gwen <These will not be parasitized, nor
likely mal-affected by the proscribed compounds. Bob Fenner>
hey!! A tutorial on writing to WWM 6/14/07
Hey again WWM guys! <Greetings, Ahmad. > i <I> waked <Woke> up
today i <I> found my smaller clown is dead !!!!! yesterday
<Yesterday> i <I> changed the filter because it was making some sounds!
cuz <...> it was closing it's upper and lower fins and when i <I> swich
<Switch> the filter off it releases them! <And you think the sound
was the cause of the apparent discomfort?> my <My> new filter doesn't
make turbans <Turbulence?> in water that much! plus <Plus> there is
another thing<:> it was not eating that much but i <I> used to her
<hear> it pooing "am feeing them blood worms" <Not sure what you
mean, bud.> i <I> don't know what is the problem my water conditions
are ok!! thanks again!! :( <I'm sorry I can't more helpful here,
friend. I don't make a lot of sense of your email, to be honest. You may
notice that there are a lot of inserts in angle brackets (<>) in your
message. These are all of the corrections you would have me/us do here
at WWM before replying to you. We can't have it this way, sorry. Look
over your email before sending, and reflect: "Is this what I want to
say? Is this how I want to say it? Can someone make sense of this?".
Please consider this and by all means reply and I'll be more than happy
to lend a hand. No offense is intended, but our minimal requirement for
our help/support is that you respect our time and "pay" us in proper
grammar, punctuation, spelling etc.> By Ahmad Zein <-GrahamT>
<<Graham... not to make allowances out of hand... but this fellow may
well be a non-native speaker/writer of English... I often remind myself
that my responses in turn would not be too spiffy if I tried to write
back in other folks native script... RMF>>
My clown is dead :'( NO useful info. – 06/15/07 Hey again
WWM guys! I woke up today I found my smaller clown is dead !!!!!
Yesterday I changed the filter because it was making some sounds!
Because it was closing it's upper and lower fins and when I switch the
filter off it releases them! My new filter doesn't make turbulence in
water that much! Plus it was not eating that much but I used to see
it pooing "am feeding them blood worms" I don't know what is the
problem, I tested my water conditions and the are OK !! thanks
again!! :( -- By Ahmad Zein <... No water quality test results?
No mention of system, maintenance, feeding, tankmates... Please read
here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm and the linked
files at top. RMF>
Sick Clown 6/12/07 My tank as just finished cycling a couple of
days ago and I decided to purchase some livestock. I purchased a
ocellaris clown, star polyp, some snails and hermits. After one day I
lost a hermit followed by another that night, others are doing fine.
<Might be an acclimation problem here. Also, no QT tank?> Coral is doing
well also. My big concern is that my clown started acting really strange
after my water change. He had a white stringy substance trailing him (
came off , maybe parasite or feces ) and he has been at the top of the
tank alot. <Could be nothing, but need to monitor closely.> He also
seems to be having fun swimming into the powerhead current and getting
pushed around the tank. <Normal> I don't now what normal breathing is,
but it seems awful fast to me. All of my water parameters are in the
safe ranges. <Numbers please, safe range is too subjective.> Do I need
to worry and is he just lonely cause he has no one to play with? <Not
lonely, but may be harboring something, hard too say. QTing a fish is
important for just this reason, allows you to monitor and treat if
necessary much more easily.> He is still swimming upright. Thank you
Tim <I would not do anything yet other than observe closely, look
for signs of parasitic infection which can be common in clowns. Please
check out or marine disease section for more.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm .>
Clowns Dying 6/1/07 Hi <Hello> I keep losing my clown fish
and I don't know why. The first pair I brought after my tank had cycled
for 5 weeks, and I had the water tested and all was fine. One of the
pair was not right from the moment it went into the tank and I fort he
recovered, but then it died after 3 days. <Need to QT new fish, now if
their death was caused by some pathogen it is in the main tank.> The
second one lasted 2 weeks and then was fine in the morning then by the
afternoon just died. I went to a different shop a week later and had the
water checked a second time and every think again was fine, so I brought
two more clowns. <"Fine" is not really specific enough to help, actual
test numbers are much more helpful.> They seemed perfectly fine much
more healthy than the other two and were fine for almost a week. But
last night one just started to act funny, it was lying around the
thermometer and then swimming away and doing it over again and lying for
a while. I looked for advice on your website and I fort it was just
resting playing or whatever, but then it hid in a hole in the rock it
never uses and I fort it had just found a new hiding place. Then it
seemed to be back to its self I went to bed, woke up turned the light on
and it was dead in the corner. The other clown seems fine just sort of
alone. It was eating fine and everything before it died and I don't know
what's wrong with them. I'm now thinking its something I'm doing wrong
rather than the fish. My tank is 25 gallons it has a internal lee's
protein skimmer <dubious reputation>, a coral sand (more like gravel)
base around 2inchs deep, 3 pieces of ocean rock, 2 pieces of live rock,
a external filter , heater , 2 high power t5 compact lighting bulbs 36w
each in a over hanging housing. I've had the water tested and its fine
so I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I hope you can help as I don't
want to buy any more fish until I know what's wrong Thanks Toby
<Unfortunately there is not much to go on here. The problem could be
either environmental or pathological in nature. In this situation I
would let the tank run fallow (no fish) for at least 6 weeks to
hopefully rule out most parasites and making sure your water parameters
are Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, and nitrate >20. pH should be 8.3 and the SG
at 1.025. Also please read through the marine disease section and see if
any of the diseases match what you saw.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm .> <Chris>
Clown Fish Health, Post-Traumatic Water Chem. Issue – 05/08/07
Please help me WWM Crew, <Yes sir…I’m going to try.> After a
recently added a Sally Lightfoot Crab To my 29 gal tank with my 2
Amphiprion Ocellaris. <Careful with the crab. Some folks have good
experiences….others, like myself, did not. Can become quite predatory.>
The wife gave the crab a cooked shrimp while I was at work. <Uh-oh.>
She removed it after a while but she missed part of the shrimp that he
had ripped off. This lead to a nitrate spike that got to 160ppm. <To
say that’s bad would be an understatement.> After 2; 5 gal water
changes and a dose of Seachem prime. The water level went back down to
20 ppm nitrate 0 nitrites and the gravity is 1.022. <Nitrates till
need to come down to about >10 and S.G. needs to come up as well to be
acceptable to your inverts…but much better than it was before
obviously.> ( it has been holding this for 48 hrs) My crab and one
of my clown seem to have made it threw the mishap just fine. <Good.
Keep up on the water changes and run some carbon as well.> The other
clown is losing color and hanging around the filter outlet.
<Lingering effects from the toxic state the tank was in.> He is
still eating and at times swims like his normal self but most of the
time he hangs around. <A good sign that he is eating though. At this
point I would just continue to care in a normal manor and offer a
variety of foods. Keep the tank aerated well and ensure the water
chemistry remains stable (i.e. have a conversation with your wife and do
more eater changes.> Also when we 1st got him he a red sore that
went away with in two days this sore has since reemerged. <Sounds
like environmental induced trauma, follow the advice above for mow. If
it makes you feel better you could move him into QT for more detailed
attention/care.> I called the LFS and was given the advise that
since I got the water under control to just do frequent water changes
and watch for any changes. <Am in agreement with the LFS for once.>
Thank you for your help. <Anytime my friend.> Rob <Adam J.>
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