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FAQs about the Worm Diseases of Clownfishes

Related FAQs: Clownfish Disease 1, Diseases of Clownfishes 2, Diseases of Clownfishes 3, Clownfish Disease 4, Clownfish Disease 5, Clownfish Disease 6, Clownfish Disease 7, Clownfish Disease 8, Clownfish Disease 9, Clownfish Disease 10, Clownfish Disease 11, Clownfish Disease 12, Clownfish Disease 13, Clownfish Disease 14, Clownfish Disease 15, Clownfish Disease 16, Clownfish Disease 17, Clownfish Disease 18, Clownfish Disease 19, Clownfish Disease 20, Clownfish Disease 21, Clownfish Disease 22, & FAQs on Clownfish Disease By: Environmental Stress, Nutrition, Social/Behavioral/Territoriality, Trauma/Mechanical Injury, & Pathogens: Lymphocystis, Infectious Disease (Bacteria, Fungi...), Protozoans: Cryptocaryon/Ich, Amyloodinium/Velvet, Brooklynella (see article below), & Mysteries/Anomalous Losses, Cure, Success Stories, & Clownfishes in General, Clownfish Identification, Clownfish Selection, Clownfish Compatibility, Clownfish Behavior, Clownfish Systems, Clownfish Feeding, Clownfishes and AnemonesBreeding Clowns

Related Articles: Clownfish Disease, Clownfishes, Maroon Clowns, Marine DiseaseBrooklynellosis

Questions regarding treatment of potential intestinal worm issues   1/2/11
Dear WetWebMedia Crew,
<Tony>
I could use some advice regarding my two tank bred Amphiprion ocellaris clownfish (black and white variety). While I continue to research your site extensively on multiple topics, I remain a bit confused as to the proper course of action here. I'll provide basic history and tank parameters first, then add my questions.
I'm new to the hobby, or should I say, obsession. I've read just enough to probably be a bit dangerous to myself, and my dear fish.
Tank stats:
30 gallons
Live sand base of 2'-3'
Roughly 35 pounds of live rock
Rena XP2 canister filter rated up to 75 gallons
One powerhead
Pending addition of a protein skimmer
Salinity 1.025 (determined with a refractometer)
Temperature 78 degrees
pH 8.2
Ammonia 0.0
Nitrite 0.0
Nitrate 0.0
I established the tank roughly 10 weeks ago. I added two tank bred Amphiprion percula after 4 weeks. I did not follow quarantine procedures. Within days one fish displayed signs of distress, refused to eat, and developed color loss and a whitish film on a segment of the body.
<Mmm, perhaps Brooklynellosis>
I reviewed your site for quarantine procedures, immediately set up a separate tank, and moved both fish. Both were dead within 24 hours. I completely rinsed out and restarted the quarantine tank (I now have two set up in my kitchen), and permitted the main tank to remain fallow for four weeks. Please note that I did leave my hermits, emeralds, and peppermint shrimp in the main tank during this time.
I acquired the two new Amphiprion ocellaris and quarantined them for the 33 days that the main tank remained fallow. In this time I noted after roughly ten days that the male (the submissive of the pair) occasionally had thin stringy feces that trailed behind him. The string was very thin - thinner than a thread - white, and remained attached to the vent for some time before dropping off. Sometimes (often) there was a larger clump of feces attached at the end of the thread. I treated both clowns via feedings of PE Mysis shrimp or frozen Marine Cuisine, with Metronidazole, as per dosing instructions, three times over six days.
<Mmm, I would have also used, treated with a vermifuge>
I moved both clowns to the main tank after the 33 days. This move took place four days ago; both fish are eating well, alert, swimming normally (though normal swimming seems relative for clowns) and demonstrate no outward signs of stress. Nevertheless, I've noted the submissive clown again is displaying the thin, stringy feces trailing from the vent. This condition is not evident in the other clown.
These are the only fish I currently have in my display tank, along with the peppermint shrimp, hermits, and emerald crabs.
I've noted in your writings that you often advise against overmedicating,
<This is so>
and I remain wary of reacting too quickly to this issue, especially as I'm concerned about the impacts on beneficial intestinal fauna as well as the potential for cumulative impacts on other organs. Yet I do want to act, if warranted, while this fish remains outwardly healthy and still eating.
<Agreed>
Would you recommend treating again with Metronidazole, or moving to the use of Praziquantel (via PraziPro), or Maracyn Two?
<I would use the Prazi, not the others>
If you recommend treatment is warranted via one of these options, would you advise treatment via food dosing, or via aquarium water?
<If they're eating, via the food>
Should both fish be treated, or just the clown displaying the symptoms?
<Both... all fishes>
And finally, if treatment is warranted with any of these products, should the fish be moved back to quarantine for treatment, or depending on the drug, can they remain in the display tank without negatively impacting the biological filter/live rock as well as the shrimp and crabs?
<Moved to the treatment tank>
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Tony
<Welcome. Bob Fenner> 
Re: Questions regarding treatment of potential intestinal worm issues, Clowns   1/5/11

Thank you sir.
<Certainly welcome Tony. BobF>



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